Clamp Knurling Tool, Body, Squaring the Stock and Boring the Center Hole
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- In this first video on machining the body, I discuss squaring the stock, order of operations and tolerancing, using the boring head and various methods of measuring the hole.
good series. lots of tips, especially like the creative use of the flycutter in the boring head.welcome back.
Thanks Larry.
Hello Tom
Fly cutter in the boring head....nice tip and one to remember!!
Enjoyed, great instruction/lesson!
ATB
Chuck
Hey Tom,
Long time fan, first time caller.
Just wanted to thank you for continuing to put out such high quality videos.
Every time I watch one I get the itch to go out to the shop, but since my old Bridgeport is out in the garage and I'm not feeling much like freezing today I might need to watch another.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks again.
Thanks.
I know what you mean by not wanting to work in the cold. I just bought a tractor and would love to get it running, but working outside in this weather is not very enticing.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Hi Tom,
Good pep talk about doing it the efficient way.
As far as the voice is concerned when the tools operate, on my end it's pretty good, I don't miss much, and since you say things more than once in different manners there is no problem on my side, but it can be different for some other viewers.
Hard to expect studio quality with a shop environment....
I should know, since I'm just beginning to produce a few videos of my own, always something to do better...
Going to next part while I got a few extra minutes,
Pierre
Thanks Pierre,
The brown truck just dropped off some equipment that should greatly improve the sound quality of my videos. All I need to do is learn how to use it. :)
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Hi Tom, While I agree entirely that don't work to closer tolerances than necessary is absolutely correct in the grand scheme of things, I feel that hobbyists might benefit from always working to tight ones. My reasoning is that practice makes perfect and hobbyists, who don't work metal all day everyday, don't get enough practice for when close sizing is important so trying to get things "spot on" will help for when it is. If you aim for "perfect" size and get it wrong, when it is unimportant, nothing is lost, and with practice you get it wrong less often.
ATB for the new year
chris
I see your point Chris, but time is money, or in the case of the hobbyist, money is time. Time spent on a quest for the dimensionally perfect part might be better spent doing something else. I don't know about you, but for me, there just aren't enough hours in the day. :)
Tom
Me, I'm looking for things to fill my day. :>)
My philosophy is, aim for perfection but settle for excellence (or good enough, if time is short.)
I would never expect a professional machinist to do anything other than your quite correct way, tolerances are there for more than one purpose, time saving is quite an important one. However machining is a skill that does need practice to be any good at and perfection needs even more.
I would never hesitate to recommend your channel to a newbie, in fact I did so only yesterday to a club member interested in threading, so keep up the good work it is appreciated by many.
Yup! another great video. My son and I moved my machines into my new shop today and as soon as I get them planted and leveled I'll use this project to fine tune my knee mill and probably lathe at the same time. The fly cutter in the cutter head using a ground tool is a novel idea for me. I'll use it.
Have a great new year and thanks for the great videos, some of the very best on yt.
Thanks Jim, it's always exciting to move into a new shop. I've made half a dozen such moves and every one gets a little better.
Happy New Year to you as well.
Tom
Hi Tom
Happy New Year to you and your loved ones.
It's great to have you back! Sorry to hear about your web mishap I can only imagine how much work all this is ..
I so much enjoy your no-nonsense, down to earth hugely educational videos and learning so much every single time. Can't have enough!
Keep up the good work!
All the best, Aris
Athens, Greece
Great video. Such a fascinating process to arrive at the final result. I look forward to se the completed tool. Again , who are these guys that hit the thumbs down . They just lurk in the shadows , complain and provide neither insight nor why they vote the way they do. Lucky for me, my son is a computer tech and keeps my computer safe from those idiots.
Thanks Kenneth.
There are too many venues on the web where you can criticize someone without having to justify yourself. Those same people would never think of doing something like that on a face to face basis because they couldn't handle having to answer for their actions. You are correct though. A thumbs down should require a written justification or it really serves no purpose.
Tom
Thanks fore the video, great having you back in my feed on RUclips
Thanks for watching!
I had a bad day in the garage and then I noticed you released a new video. Grabbed a big bowl of ice-cream and enjoyed the video all is good now. Thanks for doing what you do Tom and happy new Year to you and your family.
Thanks Earl.
Happy New Year to you and yours as well.
Tom
Hi Tom !
Nice to have you back again on the project !
Happy New Year to you and toyrs from Denmak !
Thanks Keld.
Happy New Year to you from Michigan!
Tom
Great videos Tom don't stop.
Thanks!
Making good progress. Thanks for sharing your knowledge regarding the adaptation of the fly cutter.
....13
Thanks.
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I thought my contribution would be a good learning moment. Your idea for the wire is great. However, notice @4:44, the work lifts up as you tighten the vise. While working under normal conditions I could see you picking this up so maybe the video tutorial distracted you. I was waiting and hoping you'd catch it or check the vise/workpiece. You can see @6:10, when the cutter touches the work, it favors that "high" side. Yes, the work could have been slightly out of parallel to begin with, but, like I said, it could be a good teaching moment to make sure your work is properly in the vise and/or held down.
Thanks for the great videos :)
The reason the stock lifted at 4:44 is that none of the sides were machined at that point and therefore, not square. The goal then was to simply machine the large surface flat. If I was more concerned about having enough stock for the part to clean up, I would have put a piece of paper between the part and jaw on that back edge to keep it from lifting, but that wasn't the case, so I didn't even give it a thought. You'll notice that once that large surface was finished, I used it as a reference surface for all of the other sides, machining them square or parallel to it, and to size. At 13:00, I place that surface down and tap the part down tight to the parallels before machining the opposite side.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Happy New Year Tom. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I really like your videos, so much to learn.
Thanks Steve.
Happy New Year to you.
Tom
Hey Tom, great video.
Thank you Dennis. There should be another one up shortly.
Tom
A belated Happy New Year Tom! As always, lots of good tips and info in your video.
I like the flycutter /boring head trick. Great for a boring head with single bar position.
Colin ;-)
Thanks Colin.
This one actually has two positions, one vertical and one horizontal. For some diameters though, neither will work with a boring bar.
Tom
Thanks for another great video in the series. Quick question....what brand is your DRO ? Thanks again and keep up the quality work
Hi Tom, great project.
I have one question. Why didn't you use the power draw bar that you made for your mill in this video?
Dale d
Thanks Dale.
The power drawbar is out of commission because the Chinese impact wrench that I designed it around died. I should have known better than to design the thing around a cheap tool.
Tom
So what happened to it, did the bearing go out or something else? Do you think a good Butterfly impact wrench would hold up?
*****
A good quality wrench would hold up fine. The cast aluminum butterfly handle failed on this one at the pivot and the valve body was leaking. It was just a low quality P.O.S.
Tom
Good video, straight to the point. When you are boring using the digital readout to centre the part, do you lock the x and y travel before machining?
Thanks.
Yes, the X and Y axes should always be locked when boring.
happy new year tom for 2015,
thanks for the video...
another few good tips there you have shown,
especially like the idea of the fly cutter in the boring head, will give that one a try me thinks.....!!!
will look out for your vids again,
keep up the good work,
regards...Keith in Swindon u.k
Thanks Keith and Happy New Year to you as well.
Tom
What happened to your power draw bar?
As always, thanks for the great video and for sharing your knowledge.
It's waiting for a little redesign. The P.O.S. Harbor Freight impact wrench crapped out and I need to adapt a different model to it. I should have known better than to design the drawbar around a $19 Chinese impact wrench.
Tom
I'm planning on building a power draw bar at some point. I'd love to hear some of your thoughts as you go about designing a new one. A video would be great!!! :)
Toms Techniques Suggestion: While you are designing, do one for your table up/down.
Hi Tom wish you were still making Tips.
Hi Norm. I hope to get back to making videos, but I have to first get my new shop operational. I lost the old one when we moved to a new area, so I had to start over. I hope to be somewhat operational by the end of the summer.
Hi Tom, FYI, I have just been on your site looking at the tool grinding tutorial, but the video isn't showing up. I am using my iPad, so it may just be the way the video is set up. I was expecting to either open the you tube app or be able to view it within the site.
Andy
Thanks Andrew, but I haven't added it to the site yet. I'll probably get it posted later this afternoon.
Tom
Happy New Year, Tom. Did I notice several 'hickups' in the drive of you quil? It seemed it sorta was ...interrupted' revs?
Thanks John.
The mill is working just fine. You may have been seeing spots in the video where I stopped and restarted the camera (Yes, there is stuff going on behind the scenes that I don't show). If anything moves before the camera restarts, it makes the image jump. It's probably not the proper way to make a movie, but when you are the actor, director, camera and sound man, you need to do whatever works. :)
Tom
Thanks for another great video Tom. I like your vise stop. Is that something you built?
No, that was something I bought.. Those stops are so cheap, it doesn't pay to make them (Unless you treat it as a learning experience).
Tom
another good video your a very good instructor do you teach for a living ? what other projects do you have in mind after this one?
Thanks Chris. I have a B.S. in Trade Technical Education, but only taught for a couple of years before taking a job in industry. I still enjoy teaching though and these videos are a fun way to get back into it.
Not really sure what's up next in the project department. The project tutorials are a lot of work, so I may take a break from them and make a few instructional videos instead.
Tom
Well keep up the good work I really would like to make a mill attachment for my atless. Maby your dad needs one (hint hint)
it kinda looks like the stock wasnt resting well on the parralel at the start of the video?
Good catch. The stock was actually thicker on one edge than the other, which is why it did that. One edge was about .760 and the other .753. I wasn't concerned because I knew it would clean up anyway.
Tom
If you are going to use the machine bed as a workbench than please make some wooden machine bed covers and use them (your machine deserve them) ;-)
Keep up the good work
gixxerharry
Are you one of those who puts slip covers over the furniture and runners on the carpeting? :)
That was a slot drill not an end mill:) nice video/demo
It's a two-flute center cutting end mill. No one calls them slot drills around here.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Is that a potato gun in the corner behind your right shoulder?
It is Matthew, and the thing is a blast (literally). It's a compressed air model and will propel a D cell battery through a 2 x 10, although it gets pretty tough to hold onto shooting that much mass.
Tom
I got two cannons myself, a compressed air model that uses a battery powered irrigation valve and the second is a tried and true hairspray and bbq igniter model.
Please stop talking when you cannot be heard. Wait until the machine is off or learn audio. Thanks
Apparently you weren't paying attention when I addressed this very issue at 26:20. Thanks