add a layered blanket (furniture/mover's blanket) or drape your windows with theater quality curtains (soundproof cotton curtains). you can also treat the glass on your windows with various insulation tools that can be found online, sometimes even in home improvement stores.
First, start by using a ray tracing diffusion algorithm to calculate the relative standing zones in your modeled listening area. Using these calculations, measure each piece of foamolex sonictech absorbotron exactly as pages 1 through 23 of your radiation histographic transform has described. *fast forward* *ENTIRE WALL IS FOAM* And that's why diffusion placement is important.
shouldn't the first area you treat with acoustic foam be the first reflection points? ie. the side walls first then the ceiling etc..? Although bass travels out of the speakers from all directions, high frequencies are one direction. So wouldn't that mean that the wall facing you would be the last area you treat? Great video and very informative for beginners!
thanks for the tip on separating the acoustic squares. I've always seen youtubers put them next to each other. I only have 24 small squares so ill try to separate them. Thanks!
@seifs4 The rooms that require the most Studiofoam coverage are spaces such as recording booths. The more coverage in your room, the more dead your sound. To find out how much coverage you need, you can use our Interactive Kit Calculator (IKC) or fill out a Personalized Room Analysis (PRAF) for a detailed explanation from our Application Specialists.
Thanks for the information Terry. I put acoustic foam in my 16yo boys room cause he's always playing online late at night with his headset on and screaming all the time waking everyone up. I only used a cheap acoustic foam but the difference is remarkable 👌🏼👍🏼
This is super helpful. In the room I want to build my recording studio in, one wall is curved so the corners aren't a perfect 90 degree angle. To make matters worse, the corners of the two straight walls on both sides of the curvy wall jut out a bit and don't even meet exactly where the curvy part of the wall starts. Any suggestions? Also, I'm new to this so I don't know much about this stuff. What happens if you cover all of the walls and ceiling with acoustic treatment?
@AlCopelandMusic to answer your first question, curved walls are always tricky in a smaller space, especially for a studio. One thing you could try is using shims on the curved wall to offset your treatment so they are in line and appear to lay across a flat surface. For instance, if a shim would be placed in the middle of the curve, another would be placed to it's right or left. The middle piece would be slightly longer to line with the piece set further out, that way the panel could be installed straight across the curve. For the second question, there is such a thing as over treating a room. If you were to cover all surfaces completely with our standard to 2" Studiofoam, it would take a lot of your high-end out, and feel very dry and dead. Same with bass trapping. You can over treat the low-end and again make the room sound dead, depending on your room size and layout. If you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to us at support@auralex.com. Hope you found this helpful!
HI! How much foam panels & bass traps needed to treat a really small room....Room size (length 9ft, width 5ft, height 9ft)...reply would be really helpful thanks.
Hi DJ Nonie - Thanks for your question! The answer is it depends on what type of room you are treating and what you would like it to sound like. But with a smaller room like that, our most simple recommendation would be the Alpha-DST Roominator Kit. www.auralex.com/product/alpha-dst/ This kit has (4) LENRD Bass Traps and (64) 1'x1' DST Studiofoam Panels & adhesive. Please let me know if you have other questions.
Could I place something over them? Example would be a simple frame picture. Either it cover the whole foam or fit within the foam. I'm asking to see if it's possible to reduce sound travel and still make the room look good. This would be used for an apartment complex living room.
Wondering if foam panels work for me. I do video work. I need a plane wall behind me and my desk faces a window. Most of the noise I want to eliminate comes from the street. The windows are directly in front of my desk and I live in an apartment. Would panels work and if so, where would I stick them?
I just built an aquarium in a cabinet, complete closed in with doors. With the doors closed, the aquarium equipment is making too much noise. I want to reduce the amount of noise coming out of the cabinet...any suggestions? I thought about buying the studio foam (one with ridges or egg crate) and lining the inside of the cabinet. Will this be a good solution? Thank you.
what if you can't put your mixing/mastering desk and computer to the center of the first quarter of your room? is it still okay to place it slightly to the right of the room near the wall? i'm having quit a problem because of my bed size. so i'm not sure if that should affect my placement of acoustic foam panels. I could you could help me out, @Auralex Acoustics Thanks!
What if I can afford to get enough panel to cover most of the side walls. Can I do that ? My little studio has a V-shaped ceiling. So, I need to get as much absorption as possible. Can I cover most of the wall or do I need to leave gaps ?
What if you are on one side of a large room. Wall to the left, behind and in front of monitor, but a big open space to your right? I feel that giant space will mess with anything I put up on the walls I do have access to.
Great tutorial! I have a 11x11 room that I want to do some recording. I want to install these sound proofing panels. There is a window and 2 French doors. The room is not square. The French doors are at installed diagonally. Question - What should I do about the window and doors? Do they need the panels?
Hi YakMan - Thanks for reaching out to us! I can give you a quick commentary on your windows and doors - we generally recommend using Portable Treatment (Stand-mounted Panels) to cover windows as they can cause unwanted reflection. If you also think the doors are a problem, you can either adhere Panels to them or again, simply use Portable Treatment to cover them. If you want a more in-depth analysis, we would be happy to provide with a great solution for your specific room! Please fill out our FREE Personalized Room Analysis Form (PRAF), and we can give you a diagram/drawing of your room with acoustic treatment panels placed in the locations that will help the most in your space. It can be found here: www.auralex.com/praf/ Please let us know if you have any other questions! - Auralex
Thanks for the response. Also, in my room I have chair-rail moulding that is 3 ft from the floor (not sure why I installed this so high).. but behind my desk/monitors..I have Rokit KRK 5s... and the top side of chair-rail sits almost to the top of the monitors. So I would have to put the foams right above the chair-rails. In the video the guy says start about 1.5 foot above the floor. Would my setup not be as effective to reduce echo in the room?
Hi YakMan - Every room is different and each one presents its unique challenges - we usually recommend starting your treatment about 1.5-3 feet off the ground. This helps to make sure you are wasting treatment down low or way up high where it most likely will be less noticeable when in a seated or standing position. The biggest concern in the room is making sure you are treating the first reflection points. .i.e. all places in the room where the speakers hit first. The back wall, from wall (behind monitors), side walls, and even ceiling are the first place you need to consider. In your case 3' off the ground shouldn't be a problem. I would still recommend you fill out a Personalized Room Analysis (PRAF) auralex.com/praf/ so we can make some better suggestions for you specifically. Let me know if you have further questions, Thanks! Auralex
Hi, what if where you put that first acoustic foam (behind the speakers) there is a wall that is part of my desk. It has compartments there too that hold picture frames, and other stuff. Where do you suggest I put the acoustic foam. I have limited space and foam tiles. It’s in a bedroom that also has 2 doors, one to the bathroom and one to the hallway. The room is not in a square shape. I also want to do the best I can of making sure people outside my room here as less noise as possible. Thanks!
Sorry if this is a dumb question but, when you do the mirror trick, what loudspeaker are you looking for? Say if your friend is going across the right wall, would it be same side speaker or the left speaker? Help would be great ASAP as I am putting them up I today.
You prolly allready figured it out. But just to let anyone else that might be interested in this information. If you place the mirror on the right wall - you are looking for the center of the cone on the left monitor - same goes for the other side. Thats the first point of reflection and the critical spot! - Some people then go further and look for leftside / leftside aswell. Remember: Before you do the mirror trick, you need to be in the triangle of your listening position and the monitors. Hope this helps a little.
Hi Moin - Thanks for your comment. This is a question we receive quite frequently. There are a couple ways you can handle this problem, but the first is to cover the window with a curtain. The thicker the curtain, the better - we recommend Rose Brand theater-style curtains. They can be pricey, but they have acoustic testing data to back their products and their quality is top-notch. Our favorite, simple option is to simply cover windows, glass doors, etc. with one of our Portable Treatment options like the ProMAX v2, MAX-Wall, or ProGO. These products make it easy to cover glass when you need to and then can be easily moved to let sunlight in when you don't. The other option is to build a custom window plug. Auralex carries a number of raw materials that can be used in the construction process. View our Acoustics 101 document for more information, windows are discussed on page 31. www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
This video is very informative, but I couldn't help thinking, that usually studio monitors would be facing the engineer... at an angle to form a triangle, unlike the zero degree angle the monitors in your video are facing, so my question is, would it not be more effective to have two smaller pieces of foam behind each monitor, because the triangular angle will have the backs of both monitors angleing away from the foam if it were placed in the centre like 6:50?
and one last thing. i have treated the front wall and the side reflections. i will take care at the bass traps, fo;;owing yours instructions. Next should i go for the upper cealing or should i go for my back wall? the upper wall is 2m behind my mixing potition.
@GeorgeXydous It is a little unclear of what products you want to treat your space with and where. Please email support@auralex.com and we can discuss this further in more detail to get you the best solution for your space!
As for the “mirror trick” this seems directed to if you were sitting on the couch listening to speakers, what if you’re standing in front of a mic doing audio recordings? Like voice over and whatnot
Hi Dusty - Thanks for your question. The "Mirror Trick" method works for any listening position. All you need to do is sit or stand in that location and have friend move the mirror along the wall, treat where you can see the reflection of the monitors.
@Rile Stream I'm convinced there's something to that. Very often when you hear someone who sounds like another, there's also a slight or even striking resemblance between the two. I dunno, might be something like a certain shape mouth, face, etc. contributes to the particular voice someone has.
@JaroslawStepniak So when it comes to J-Mounted acoustical testing (testing done with the bass trap in the corner) there is no standard, but three different equations calculated with high level thinking. From our acoustic testing, the LENRD Bass Trap is effective down to 63 Hz and up. If you would like to see more information on this, you can find it on it's product page on our website. I have included the link here: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/
How do I know if should rather use wedge-shaped absorbers as opposed to pyramid shaped absorbers? And another question: What is your take on installing absorbers on the ceiling above the engineer's position?
Hi Thilos - Thanks for your comment! To answer your first question - there are slight differences in the performance between some of the cuts, but mostly it boils down to aesthetics. View the test results here: www.auralex.com/tools/testing-data/performance-data/ So we usually advise that it's more important that you select a Studiofoam pattern that appeals to you. We frequently spec ceiling diffusion in many room designs we complete. Having diffusion is especially important in small rooms, live rooms (particularly with drums), and home theaters. Any listening environment where a "larger" sound is desired and a shorter ceiling may be hampering that quality. Typically above a mix position though, we would recommend absorption rather than diffusion to help tame as much direct reflections and slap-back as possible. Hope that answers your questions and please let me know if you have others!
Auralex Acoustics Thank you for your comprehensive response. It does help me a lot. Yet I have another question. I have a curtain (albeit a rather thin one) in front of the large-twin window behind my studio monitor in a midsized control-room, with no live instruments being recorded in that room except maybe keyboards or bass through DI. Do you think I can try if the the curtain is sufficient as an absorber? Since I deem it to be quite elaborate to put absorbers before the window (maybe hanging from the ceiling on a wooden panel). Besides I like the daylight.
In this scenario, if want to keep your windows/daylight we have a couple options: Our first recommendation would usually be to go get a larger, thicker curtain. That way you have a non-permanent solution where you can still use your windows. The other option would be our ProMAX Portable Absorption Panels. These are stand-mounted absorption panels that you can place in front of the windows (along with the curtain you already have) when you're doing critical listening and then move when you want to let some light in. Making a custom diffusor (or absorber) to hang in front of the window is also another good idea if you're handy and fancy a project.
+Cam Par Hi Cam - Thanks for your comment! Diffusion, much like other aspects of acoustics, is a highly debated topic. We generally recommend diffusion in a recording environment where you want to retain some "live" feel. In most cases this is the desired sound for percussion, orchestral, and woodwind instruments. In a home theater setting, this would be be more of a personal choice. That is to say, it depends on whether you'd like a more lively feel or a more controlled environment. If you are leaning towards the latter, you may want to lean towards having absorption panels on the rear wall. Either way, the end goal is the same here - to control room ring and slap-back echo. Here is some further reading on Diffusors that may help you make a decision: www.auralex.com/faq/what-is-a-diffusor/ I hope that helps to answer your question. Please let us know if can help with any others. Thanks!
Hi Koios - There are a number of different ways to help control windows in a critical listening space. The first thing we recommend for windows is to get a thick, theater style curtain. We don't produce, but we usually like to suggest Rose Brand: www.rosebrand.com/ Our usual go-to method is to use a Portable Treatment option like ProMAX or a ProGO to create a "false wall" and cover the glass with absorption. The last way is the most difficult, but perhaps the best - to build a Window "Plug." Use some acoustic material cut to the exact measurement and shape of the window, and then use absorption material like Studiofoam or Fiberglass on the outside layer. Hope that is helpful! If you would like a more customized plan of action for your particular room remember to submit a FREE Personalized Room Analysis on Auralex.com!
Hi what size are these panels in the video the acoustic squares and the bass traps please as I'm turning my bedroom into a studio !! Thanks kindly Jade
Hi Jade - These are 2'x2' ft Studiofoam Panels, the Bass Traps are called LENRDs. They are 1' wide x 1' deep x 2' long. Here is more data on them: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/ Let me know if you have any more questions!
Quick question, I am currently living in university halls & need to think of a method to stop sounds from leaking through the walls as my neighbours are complaining. would a set of absorption panels put in the right places and a pair of bass traps help me out?? If not what else could you suggest I do thank you.
Absorption panels eliminate reflections of a sound source within the room; they don't necessarily stop sounds from going through the walls. If there is any difference, it would be very subtle, although it may not be enough to rectify the situation of sound travelling into other rooms nearby.
+Tradeworker 760 Hi! Thanks for your comment! We typically do NOT recommend using 100% acoustical treatment in any recording environment (with the possible exception of Voiceover work). Please read this FAQ about this subject: www.auralex.com/faq/how-much-should-i-cover-my-walls-with-studiofoam/
Hi Javi, foam products are less absorptive than other materials, particularly for low frequencies. That's why our Studiofoam products are paired with Bass Traps that are much thicker. You can see how much our different thicknesses of Studiofoam absorbs on our website here: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-wedges/
I'm trying to quiet my room so I can record, right now, there's a lot of noise from my ac & an echo that's annoying. What should I get for better recording?
Hi Apollo -Thanks for your question. We have a FREE Room Analysis Service for people like you who need advice and ideas for treating their spaces. Visit Auralex.com/praf and fill out the form - an Application Specialist will deliver you a 2D drawing of your space with Auralex Panels placed in the best locations.
whats better to cover the wall behind my back? im in another position now, monitors are pointed to my face,but experiencing a lil reverb behind me, because my back is almost against a wall, im thinkin bout the wedge or pyramid panels?
I read in another article from another acoustician that dampening the front wall is unnecessary simply because high frequencies project forward from the speakers, and 2 inch foam is practically useless for low frequencies. Instead it's best to use bass traps. I could be wrong but it did seem to make sense.
Pri yon Joni that does make sense but remember the louder the speaker level and the size room will impact how the forward high frequency will bounce back and forth from the back wall so that might be when the front wall absorbers come into effect.
Hi tropikiimba - Thanks for the question! Usually the most recommended position for speakers is NOT against the wall. Obviously every room is different and presents its unique challenges with its size and layout - but we typically adhere to the 38% Rule. The idea is that the best listening position (or "sweet spot") is at 38% of the longest dimension, this is the place where many common frequencies modes and nodes are most minimized. More info here: www.auralex.com/acoustical-terms-index/ Please let us know if you have any further questions! Thx
Hi Yash - There are a couple of ways you can deal with windows in your studio space. The easiest way is to simply use a Portable/Stand-mounted option such as our ProMAX Panels to place in front of the window: www.auralex.com/product/promax/ You could also build a DIY window plug using Studiofoam as the outside layer. We have some tips and tricks on building those in our Acoustics 101 Resource: www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf Hope that helps answer your questions - feel free to ask more you may have! - Auralex
With a diffusor like the T'Fusor, the shell reflects most high frequencies but lower frequencies (long wavelengths) travel through it easier. Backfilling it with loose insulation or absorptive materials like the SonoFiber shown will absorb some of that sound before it bounces off the wall. It effectively becomes a diffusor with low end absorption. It's important to note that all physical materials absorb, reflect, and let sound transfer through at different amounts.
Hi Oliver - Auralex Studiofoam (and all other acoustical wall panels from any manufacturer) are designed to absorb & control sound WITHIN a room. It is not designed for SOUND ISOLATION - to keep sound INSIDE or OUTSIDE of a space you need mass and basically an airtight, gapless seal around the perimeter of the room. Think of it like keeping water inside a room - sound will find any hole or crevice to escape. However, we do produce products to help with this type of project. Check out our Construction/Isolation products on Auralex.com, this video: ruclips.net/video/PASWdiIVqIk/видео.html or our Construction Calculator App the RLX at rlx.auralex.com for more information.
The best way to do would be to isolate the ceiling or float the upstairs floor. Unfortunately there isn't really any other way to do properly and get good results. Sound Isolation is usually a major construction project. Please refer to our RLX application at rlx.auralex.com for more infomation on isolating a space.Please do not hesitate to let me know if you have any further questions.
Before I order any foam, should I move my studio from L-shaped room to a rectangle shaped? How much other objects like, tables and shelves impact the sound in a home studio, should they be eliminated if possible?
@lowmike When it comes to the shape of a room, a rectangle is going to be the more cooperative space to work with, and is most ideal. L-shaped rooms can also be treated, but due to their shape, the sound will travel differently, so treating reflection points can take more thought. In regards to other objects, it can depend on how effectively the room can be treated, while working around pieces of furniture. The less reflective surfaces you have in the room, the better. If it is not crucial that they be in there, it would probably be best to take them out. This can allow more room for treatment.
+Diego Fernandez Hi Diego - Thanks for reaching out to us! This is a question we get asked quite frequently. When it comes to Bass Trapping, the idea is to focus the treatment where the Bass builds up in a room. The corners are particularly a big problem area in small rooms. If possible or reasonable we would ultimately suggest covering all the way from floor to ceiling with Bass Traps in all small room corner scenarios. Most of the time this is just isn't possible either for space or budgetary restrictions - especially a home studio. So, if that isn't something that can done - we would then recommend starting ceiling to floor to cover most of the wall surfaces that are in more of a direct reflection path to the (seated) listening position and standing people in the room. Assuming a normal home studio ceiling height of 8' - even with a few LENRD Bass Traps per corner you able to get great coverage in the place where it will make the most difference in a small room. Hope that helps to explain our method a bit more and please let us know if we can answer any other questions. Thanks again! - Auralex
+Diego Fernandez lol i know auralex did not answer your question lol bass is what we define as a frequency from different levels from 20hz being the lowest we humans can hear... to around 60hz to 80hz... sound does not travel in just a flat direction... it goes both up and down... so even high parts of the rooms you would get bass build up...
I cant glue or put any holes or nails in my walls. What kind of double sided tape or stuff can I use that will stick to the walls well enough to hold a foam panel but peel off without damaging the walls? my walls really reject scotch double sided tape sticking and even duct tape. so i need something that sticks just a little better than double sided scotch tape. but not too well. command strips rip a layer of my wall off they stick too well no matter how carefully i try to remove them its like they have superglue on them instead of just tape adhesive.
Hi Realflow - Thanks for your comment. We get this question quite a bit and hopefully I have a simple solution for you with our EZ-Stick Pro Tabs. They are like Command Strips and I see you say you can't use these because they will harm the wall. I actually had the same problem in my apartment. My idea was to use packing tape on the wall surface itself and then adhere the EZ-Stick Pro Tabs to the tape. I rolled the end of the tape back on itself to create a "pull tab" for easy removal. The tape peels off quickly and easily without causing damage in my case, so this might work for you as well. Please let me know if you have success with this method! Thanks!
much like if you've ever moved home and you've emptied everything out of your living room you'll notice that the room is reverberating, which it never did before. that is because there isn't as much stuff in the room to diffuse the sound waves. with it empty the waves can bounce of the walls and corners straight back into your ear, and even carry on going for a second or so. pads help by adding more randomness to the remaining large flat areas of the room
2 concerns up front. The first thing is NOT to put a single 1" foam panel on the front wall! What is true is what he says about the speaker-boundary reflection interference. Rather, the "1st thing" that should be done is to reduce that problem by pulling the speakers away from the front wall! No cost. Huge improvement! 2nd thing to do is to recognize that the speaker pressure interference cannot be solved by 1" foam! 1" foam works for tweeters (i.e. high energy), which is directional. Notice the tweeters and high energy is facing the room/mix position. So, 1" will be largely unhelpful here to solve that issue. It will be worthwhile for reducing "flutter echoes" if the rear wall is untreated. But to solve his mentioned problem of omnidirectional lower frequencies that DO bounce off the wall and reflect back to the mix position delayed, causing smearing, will require mass, depth, and low energy pressure treatment. Foam can be great for mid to high frequency issues though.
Hi Craig - Thanks for your comment. You are ABSOLUTELY correct about moving the desk away from the wall being a great first step to address speaker boundary interference issues. It would have obviously been better if Terry had mentioned that in this video, and explained that due to the setup of this particular room (a very small office here at our HQ) that placing the monitors and the desk any further back would block the entrance to the room. To address your first comment about the panels used in this room - they are 2" Studiofoam Wedges Panels - if you look at the chart on this page: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-wedges/ you will see that 2" has significantly better mid-high, and mid-range performance than 1" Wedges. Studiofoam is a turn-key, small, easy-to-install, cost-effective, and reasonably broadband absorber that is great for controlling slap-back echo, flutter echo, and first reflection points (especially in small rooms and project studios). You are also exactly right about needing more mass and depth to combat lower-mid and low frequencies. These frequencies tend to congregate in the corners of the room, so that is where we tend to concentrate our deeper and larger LENRD Bass Traps. More info on them, including testing data here: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/ I hope that helps to explain our philosophy and please let us know if you'd like to discuss anything further or have other questions. Thanks! ~ Auralex
Doesn't this guy realize that studio monitor placement is equally important as well?? The speakers in this video are pointed straight ahead...wtf?They should be positioned in an equilateral triangle.
Hi Philo - Thanks for your comment. Yes, you are exactly right! This was a simple video shot in one of our (less than ideal) office rooms, and in this case - placing the mix position at 38% (moving the monitors) was impossible since this would have blocked a door. We have other resources that speak to the optimum placement of monitors and listening position. Check them out here: auralex.com/studio/ Thanks again for pointing that out!
Gabriel Barinas Sánchez Hi Gabriel. Thanks for the question! For recording voiceovers we would recommend creating a booth with approximately 40-50% coverage. This depends on how "live" you would like your recordings to sound. If you would like more personalized advice please submit a Personalized Room Analysis Form (PRAF) at www.auralex.com/praf/
Does that adhesive stick the normal foam on wall too? Like the ones that are used on making sofa. The sponge kind? and do they work if you want to stick the foam on ceiling ?
+Shankul Chavan I can't say for sure if it isn't our product because we haven't tested it. But please let me caution you about using regular "bedding foam" for acoustic treatment. This is something we need to address from time to time because of the perception that even though it may look and feel similar to our foam, the make-up and structure is different. Our Studiofoam products are made from a high density, open-cell proprietary material. They are specifically designed to do 2 functional jobs: 1.) To absorb soundwaves at particular frequencies (they aren't tuned, but through independent acoustic testing we are aware of where each cut, profile, and thickness excels - see testing data for our products at auralex.com) 2.) All of our Studiofoam products are flame-retardant to some degree (many are Class B Fire-Rated), a few of them are Class A Fire-Rated which means they are safe and legal to install in commercial applications in many countries. These are 2 things that regular store-bought bedding foam simply cannot offer. Depending on the cut and thickness some foam may absorb sound, but without acoustic testing data how can you have any idea what it is achieving? Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, bedding foam is generally very flammable and could be very dangerous or even illegal to place on wall surfaces. Hope that helps to clear up a bit about all of that.
Thanks for the comment. I'm only gonna using the bedding foam to fill up the top corners. I just want to remove the reflections that occur at the dihedral corners, as my budget can allow me to do only that. As for the recording booth I'm using the wedge foam. :)
I live in an apartment (basement floor) and the people above me are noisy and it interferes with my zone whenever they’re home. I want to keep from hearing them and also be able to record as loud as I want.. does this help?
@TheUniVsInfinite When it comes to sound travelling from one space to another, you’re really looking at a sound isolation issue, and that usually is because of how that space is constructed. Unfortunately, that means in order to fix something like that, it involves a bit of a construction project. Our Studiofoam and ProPanel products are primarily used to help control reflections and standing waves, not for isolation purposes. I have included links to our construction/isolation products and links to more detailed information about doing a project like this to give you a better idea of the potential project you may be looking at: auralex.com/shop/isolation/ support.auralex.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002458191-Construction-Guides If you have any other questions, please contact support@auralex.com.
bloodmarth Hi Blood - I think you may be confusing Sound ABSORPTION vs. Sound ISOLATION. Absorption helps to reduce unwanted reflections, slap-back echo, and coloration. This is what is being shown here. If you are interested in Sound ISOLATION (Sound Proofing) please view our resource Acoustics 101 at: www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
Hi Fokushi - That's a great question. When dealing with a window we have several different recommendations: The first is to cover it with a large, heavy, theater-style curtain. While these can be a little pricey, Rose Brand www.rosebrand.com/ makes extremely high-quality and very effective acoustical curtains that even feature acoustical testing data. The second easier and less-permanent option is to use a Portable Treatment option like our stand-mounted ProMAX V2 Panels. www.auralex.com/product/promax/ These are easy to move around your room and can quickly create a partition to block a window or create a makeshift vocal booth. The third idea is perhaps the best if you are handy, enjoy a DIY project, and have a smaller window. This method is to build a window "plug" - the base material can be anything that can be cut to shape to fit securely within the window sill/frame. Once you have cut your base, cover the outside (side facing into the room) with Studiofoam and you have a removable acoustic panel that also blocks your window. Just Google "window plug" and you will find lots of information and ideas. I would also invite you to submit a FREE Personalized Room Analysis through Auralex.com/praf/ that will help give you a better idea of some ideal treatment options. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Hi G. Jorge - Any of the three methods mentioned above can be/are temporary. That way when it isn't necessary to worry about critical listening you can simply remove them from the windows to get your sunlight fix!
@BloodyShrine What Terry was saying is that if you didn't have many panels to begin with, and you are working in a small studio, then one panel could be sufficient to make a difference in your home studio. This can depend greatly on what you are doing in the room, as well as how big your space is. Generally, we suggest four 2' x 2' panels in front on your mix position, as well as the same amount of panels above, behind and to the right and left of your mix position. Again, each room varies on how much treatment you need when taking into consideration the size and purpose for the space.
Hi Lextacy - This is a great question we get pretty frequently and is a very common misconception about acoustic panels. These panels and any other panels which are simply placed on a wall are NOT meant to stop sound transmission between spaces. They are intended to help manage and improve sound WITHIN a space. If your main goal is stop sound leakage into or out of a space the process (or Isolate the sapce) is unfortunately a bit more difficult. It is a more of a construction project than simply placing panels on the wall. The best and most effective way we recommend is to build what is commonly referred to as the room-within-a-room method. It involves building inside walls on top of the already existing structures. See an example here: ruclips.net/video/PASWdiIVqIk/видео.html You can also get an idea of what it would take to completely isolate your small (
@@AuralexAcoustics You're right, a box in a box works for a lot of it. I was told to use plywood, two layers on either side, one layer vertical, one horizontal. Plus window stuffs and double doors. Cost: about 4,000, plus a double door...
Hi Chris - Thanks for your question! Yes, all Auralex wall panel products are designed to help tame reflections and echos inside a space. If you have a commercial office, you may need to abide by local fire regulations. This means the wall panels will most likely have to meet a Class-A Fire Rating. These laws differ by state and/or city so you should discuss this with your local fire marshal. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
@@AuralexAcoustics I think they should ALWAYS be the higher-grade/more flame-proof. A, I was paranoid about fire long before the stupidity with Great White/Jack Russell. and B, if you do your acoustics RIGHT, you're unlikely to hear any smoke alarm OUTSIDE the room. Inside, it's pretty sealed up. Especially if you do double doors like a real studio and window stuffs that are a good foot thick. You ALWAYS have to be prepared with a fire extinguisher right at hand. I've known a few people who were there for stage fires and studio fires. Candles cause 30% more fires, so DON'T use them. In fact, Black Peas started an accidental fire in a studio that way. The fake ones with the moving "flame" look great behind frosted glass and you can't tell the difference. Bonus, no worries about spilled wax (a clue: it sucks). Any drapes should fit that fire-resistant grade imo, too. The good stuff is REAL expensive. Just heads-up. Cheap packing foam=bad (Great White covered that whole area for $600.00, as seen in longer video before fire starts). Also, THINK. Any adhesive might contribute to a potential fire. Any foam covering (such as flat foam) that was there BEFORE can make a potential fire REALLY deadly (back to "Killer Show" the lawyer's book on Great White's 4th deadliest nightclub or theater fire in US). NO "foam sandwiches!" Think about everything in the room and how you'd get out. Window stuffs are great, but not to easy to get in or out of place. They DO make some noise reduction paint and clear noise reduction film for windows if noise might bother your neighbors. Saw it on "Hotel Impossible." I think every state should require fire extinguishers near any PA or lighting (lights are REALLY HOT). Note: Just 3 db of bass increase is double the power. Just for the record.
Hi filitalian - Thanks for the question! This is something we get asked quite frequently. It is important to note that Sound Absorption and Sound Isolation (sometimes called "soundproofing") are two different goals for a space. Sound Absorption is controlling sound INSIDE a room - this helps to control harsh reflections, slapback echo, reverberation, etc. Sound Isolation is controlling sound that travels FROM ROOM TO ROOM (OUTSIDE). Using absorption treatment in a space can sometimes help to isolate it to a small degree, but that isn't the main purpose. Think of sound almost like water in a room, it will find a way to escape through any crack or hole. So in order for a room to be truly isolated it needs to be basically airtight - this usually that involves a construction process and a method which is sometimes referred to as "room-within-a-room" construction. To understand this process and for DIY tips please view our resource Acoustics101 here: www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
Thanks for the info and quick response. I'm looking at options for a room of a house i'm moving into, and looking at sound isolation and room acoustics ideas.
AuralexAcoustics you guys forgot to mention that it's WAY more expensive lol, my drum teacher had a room within a room in his backyard shed, double doors, double entries and then carpet inside with soundproofing boards, perfect for drums but cost thousands. Great job differentiating the two!
@@GabrielXDrums I think they now have sound sucking paint and adhesive stick ones for windows for hotels next to a loud bar. That would be fairly cheap, I'd think. Or, you could just get to be a better drummer. lol :) I play drums, too.
Wait a second, you covered the electrical outlet with acoustic foam? Wouldn't this be a bad idea? Seems like it would be against code in most areas (although I'm not an expert so idk)
Hi Collectible Squash - Thanks for your comment. To answer your question, no, we certainly don't recommend covering outlets with acoustic materials. This is simply an example for demonstration purposes. Studiofoam is a great material to use for wall surfaces that have obstacles because it can trimmed to fit a tight spot or even cut into custom sizes or shapes. Hope that answers your question, please let us know if you have additional ones.
I have a rice paper screen on the very left side of my studio, then it goes back about 4 or 5 feet to the wall... would this cause an issue? should I take it down? thanks for the help
When you say "bass trap", what absorption levels are you talking about over what frequency range. Acoustic foam doesn't do much for the lower frequencies, so they really aren't trapping bass frequencies.
@codullah You can place treatment over wallpaper! Our adhesives are meant to adhere to a variety of surfaces. A majority of our adhesives are also permanent, so we like to include that if you were to adhere them to a painted wall or wallpaper in your case, and you were to remove it, it would pull paint or wallpaper off of the wall. If you wanted to avoid that, we have a few temporary suggestions like t-pins or adhering the foam to a light substrate, and then hanging it like a picture on the wall.
Hi - Thanks for reaching out to us. The best advice I can give you without knowing more about the room is to use our Room Treatment App called the RLX. It's free and with a little bit of information about your room it will return up to 3 different results. Check it out: www.auralex.com/news-rlx/ And certainly let me know if you have any other questions.
@weetztbat The mirror trick is intended to help you place treatment in reference to your mix position. Treatment can be placed differently depending on what you are treating the space for. It's definitely important to place treatment based on the first reflection points from yourself (immediately left, right, above, behind and front). If you have further questions, please contact support@auralex.com
@@AuralexAcoustics i want to record vocals.. would i just insert myself facing outward in the same position the speakers are facing outward? Since I, like the speakers, am the source of the sound?
@@weetzybat When recording vocals, you want to treat your room a bit heavier on absorption. I have included a link to our website about treating a vocal booth: auralex.com/vocal-booth/ . Also, you could take advantage of our portable treatment. This allows you to get clean vocal recordings without having to treat the entire room! I have included a link to those as well, along with a link to our version of a mic shield, the MudGuard V2: auralex.com/shop/portable/ and auralex.com/mudguard/. In terms of where to place yourself in the room, just ensure that you have treatment in reference to where you will be recording yourself and those first reflection points: to the left, right, front, above and back of you. I hope you have found this helpful! If you have further questions, please contact support@auralex.com.
@SnowflakesFalling We have a few different adhesives that we suggest when installing our products. We have a spray on adhesive, a liquid based adhesive and press on tabs. I have included a link from our website where you can find all of the adhesives we have to offer: www.auralex.com/products/absorption/adhesives/. Usually for our Studiofoam products, such as the ones shown here, we suggest either the spray on adhesive, our Foamtak, or our EZ-Stick Pro Tabs. The T'Fusors are usually installed either in a drop tile grid or also adhered with EZ-Stick Pro Tabs.
I have a mancave that I use for podcasting as well as entertaining guest during events at my home. I know these things must work great but my issue with using these is that they would look a bit distracting and unatractive. If it was just a studio space then I would say okay lets do it. However this room is part of my home so I think those would look real tacky hanging on walls. Its like having a brand new $1000.00 suit on with Payless shoes on your feet. Its like having a beautiful living room with those wedge foams hanging on the walls. Just wouldnt look good if I hung up those wedge foams. Anyone know any alternatives beside these (or blankets)?
Sometimes you got to make a choice on which is more important. But also, they have different colored foam so if you're good at designing then you can just repaint the walls and get the colored foam.
Hi Andre - Thanks for your question, this is something we hear quite often. If you wanted to stick with a Studiofoam material we offer a design called Studiofoam Pro which is a simple beveled-edge, flat-faced panel. View info here: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-pro/ If you are looking for something a bit more designer/stylish we also offer a number of types of fabric-wrapped Panels. 1" SonoLite Panels in Black and Tan: www.auralex.com/product/sonolite/ And our highest preforming, most popular product: ProPanel Acoustic Panels: www.auralex.com/products/absorption/propanel-absorption-panels/ These are available in 1"- 4" and come in a variety of different fabric choices. I hope that provides you with some better information about our available product range - please let me know if you have any further questions! - Auralex
High end studios use custom-made baffles. Please make sure you get stuff that won't be highly toxic in a fire. Fire-resistant or fireproof stuff isn't cheap. Blankets, btw, do nothing. You COULD use a wall of books or records at different depths. I haven't heard it, but I could see that.
Him: Most important area is right behind your monitor
Me: *sweats profusely looking at the window behind my monitor*
Put a heavy curtain there instead!
Sad Can .. treat the window the same as you would treat dry wall.
add a layered blanket (furniture/mover's blanket) or drape your windows with theater quality curtains (soundproof cotton curtains). you can also treat the glass on your windows with various insulation tools that can be found online, sometimes even in home improvement stores.
Hilarious
Lol SAMEEEEE
First, start by using a ray tracing diffusion algorithm to calculate the relative standing zones in your modeled listening area. Using these calculations, measure each piece of foamolex sonictech absorbotron exactly as pages 1 through 23 of your radiation histographic transform has described.
*fast forward*
*ENTIRE WALL IS FOAM*
And that's why diffusion placement is important.
That was funny lol.
😂 Yep. That's exactly how I did it too.
10 years ago and still relevant!!! Great work.
This guy is REALLY good at presenting. The video is ultra informative. Thanks.
These seem like a good addition to real Acoustic treatment.
shouldn't the first area you treat with acoustic foam be the first reflection points? ie. the side walls first then the ceiling etc..? Although bass travels out of the speakers from all directions, high frequencies are one direction. So wouldn't that mean that the wall facing you would be the last area you treat? Great video and very informative for beginners!
Very helpful video even today in 2017. Thanks for the upload. Currently pimping my studio out.
Thanks for your comment! Even though this video is a little dated - the principles of Acoustics haven't changed!
thanks for the tip on separating the acoustic squares. I've always seen youtubers put them next to each other. I only have 24 small squares so ill try to separate them. Thanks!
@seifs4 The rooms that require the most Studiofoam coverage are spaces such as recording booths. The more coverage in your room, the more dead your sound. To find out how much coverage you need, you can use our Interactive Kit Calculator (IKC) or fill out a Personalized Room Analysis (PRAF) for a detailed explanation from our Application Specialists.
AuralexAcoustics Thank you for this CLEAR and informative video. This educated me further about how to properly place acoustic treatment.
I will definitely use these tips when building my studio!
so.. after 8 years u have studio?
If you have enough foam can you cover the whole side walls just like the back wall?
Thanks for the information Terry. I put acoustic foam in my 16yo boys room cause he's always playing online late at night with his headset on and screaming all the time waking everyone up. I only used a cheap acoustic foam but the difference is remarkable 👌🏼👍🏼
can u be my dad
So glad I came across this video besides their products, it help me out a lot ... Thanks!
Glad we could help you!
What sort of adhesive would you recommend to fix foam panels to a wall?
Double sided tape
This is super helpful. In the room I want to build my recording studio in, one wall is curved so the corners aren't a perfect 90 degree angle. To make matters worse, the corners of the two straight walls on both sides of the curvy wall jut out a bit and don't even meet exactly where the curvy part of the wall starts. Any suggestions? Also, I'm new to this so I don't know much about this stuff. What happens if you cover all of the walls and ceiling with acoustic treatment?
@AlCopelandMusic to answer your first question, curved walls are always tricky in a smaller space, especially for a studio. One thing you could try is using shims on the curved wall to offset your treatment so they are in line and appear to lay across a flat surface. For instance, if a shim would be placed in the middle of the curve, another would be placed to it's right or left. The middle piece would be slightly longer to line with the piece set further out, that way the panel could be installed straight across the curve. For the second question, there is such a thing as over treating a room. If you were to cover all surfaces completely with our standard to 2" Studiofoam, it would take a lot of your high-end out, and feel very dry and dead. Same with bass trapping. You can over treat the low-end and again make the room sound dead, depending on your room size and layout. If you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to us at support@auralex.com. Hope you found this helpful!
HI! How much foam panels & bass traps needed to treat a really small room....Room size (length 9ft, width 5ft, height 9ft)...reply would be really helpful thanks.
Hi DJ Nonie - Thanks for your question! The answer is it depends on what type of room you are treating and what you would like it to sound like. But with a smaller room like that, our most simple recommendation would be the Alpha-DST Roominator Kit. www.auralex.com/product/alpha-dst/ This kit has (4) LENRD Bass Traps and (64) 1'x1' DST Studiofoam Panels & adhesive. Please let me know if you have other questions.
Could I place something over them? Example would be a simple frame picture. Either it cover the whole foam or fit within the foam.
I'm asking to see if it's possible to reduce sound travel and still make the room look good. This would be used for an apartment complex living room.
It's been 7 years. I assume they are still finding a solution for you.
In case you forgot who makes this product.... They'll remind you.
Infuriating, isn’t it? I felt it ruined the presentation. #overkill
I didnt notice it untill I saw your comment😂
This product is the same as what's on Amazon for 1/10 the price and faster Free shipping.
Wondering if foam panels work for me. I do video work. I need a plane wall behind me and my desk faces a window. Most of the noise I want to eliminate comes from the street. The windows are directly in front of my desk and I live in an apartment. Would panels work and if so, where would I stick them?
do you recommend doing all this in saloon (which i have stereo gear) about 8*3 meters???
I just built an aquarium in a cabinet, complete closed in with doors. With the doors closed, the aquarium equipment is making too much noise. I want to reduce the amount of noise coming out of the cabinet...any suggestions?
I thought about buying the studio foam (one with ridges or egg crate) and lining the inside of the cabinet. Will this be a good solution? Thank you.
what if you can't put your mixing/mastering desk and computer to the center of the first quarter of your room? is it still okay to place it slightly to the right of the room near the wall? i'm having quit a problem because of my bed size. so i'm not sure if that should affect my placement of acoustic foam panels.
I could you could help me out, @Auralex Acoustics
Thanks!
i don't have a friend, what do I do? plz help!
Hi WimmelJimmel -
Hmmm... That is a tough question. Perhaps put up some posters around town? Maybe join a club? Hope that helps! - Auralex
Here in the UK, Boots (a chain of Pharmacies) do a range of 'friendless mirrors', they are like normal mirrors but with very long handles.
Good suggestion!
same here lmao
WimmelJimmel stop being awkward
how low in the frequency spectrum do your products effectively absorb?
Mostly nothing, that stuff is useless
@@graphenemusic5922 I wouldn’t say that
What if I can afford to get enough panel to cover most of the side walls. Can I do that ? My little studio has a V-shaped ceiling. So, I need to get as much absorption as possible. Can I cover most of the wall or do I need to leave gaps ?
Can I turn the foam panels to look like a diamond? Will it effect the way that the sound gets absorbed or does it not matter?
No, that will be totally fine.
What if you are on one side of a large room. Wall to the left, behind and in front of monitor, but a big open space to your right? I feel that giant space will mess with anything I put up on the walls I do have access to.
Great tutorial! I have a 11x11 room that I want to do some recording. I want to install these sound proofing panels.
There is a window and 2 French doors. The room is not square. The French doors are at installed diagonally.
Question - What should I do about the window and doors? Do they need the panels?
Hi YakMan - Thanks for reaching out to us! I can give you a quick commentary on your windows and doors - we generally recommend using Portable Treatment (Stand-mounted Panels) to cover windows as they can cause unwanted reflection. If you also think the doors are a problem, you can either adhere Panels to them or again, simply use Portable Treatment to cover them. If you want a more in-depth analysis, we would be happy to provide with a great solution for your specific room! Please fill out our FREE Personalized Room Analysis Form (PRAF), and we can give you a diagram/drawing of your room with acoustic treatment panels placed in the locations that will help the most in your space. It can be found here: www.auralex.com/praf/
Please let us know if you have any other questions! - Auralex
Thanks for the response. Also, in my room I have chair-rail moulding that is 3 ft from the floor (not sure why I installed this so high).. but behind my desk/monitors..I have Rokit KRK 5s... and the top side of chair-rail sits almost to the top of the monitors. So I would have to put the foams right above the chair-rails.
In the video the guy says start about 1.5 foot above the floor.
Would my setup not be as effective to reduce echo in the room?
Hi YakMan - Every room is different and each one presents its unique challenges - we usually recommend starting your treatment about 1.5-3 feet off the ground. This helps to make sure you are wasting treatment down low or way up high where it most likely will be less noticeable when in a seated or standing position. The biggest concern in the room is making sure you are treating the first reflection points. .i.e. all places in the room where the speakers hit first. The back wall, from wall (behind monitors), side walls, and even ceiling are the first place you need to consider. In your case 3' off the ground shouldn't be a problem. I would still recommend you fill out a Personalized Room Analysis (PRAF) auralex.com/praf/ so we can make some better suggestions for you specifically. Let me know if you have further questions, Thanks! Auralex
1:56 Is there any reason why the bass trap wasn't put all the way in the corner to touch the ceiling? Or was it just because he couldn't reach it?
He probably didn't want it to touch the trim. For whatever reason.
Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to trying this when I get home from work later.
Hi, what if where you put that first acoustic foam (behind the speakers) there is a wall that is part of my desk. It has compartments there too that hold picture frames, and other stuff. Where do you suggest I put the acoustic foam. I have limited space and foam tiles. It’s in a bedroom that also has 2 doors, one to the bathroom and one to the hallway. The room is not in a square shape. I also want to do the best I can of making sure people outside my room here as less noise as possible. Thanks!
Sorry if this is a dumb question but, when you do the mirror trick, what loudspeaker are you looking for? Say if your friend is going across the right wall, would it be same side speaker or the left speaker? Help would be great ASAP as I am putting them up I today.
You prolly allready figured it out. But just to let anyone else that might be interested in this information.
If you place the mirror on the right wall - you are looking for the center of the cone on the left monitor - same goes for the other side.
Thats the first point of reflection and the critical spot! -
Some people then go further and look for leftside / leftside aswell.
Remember: Before you do the mirror trick, you need to be in the triangle of your listening position and the monitors.
Hope this helps a little.
This stuff rly helps. My toms aren't ringing for as long after treating the room.
Probably a dumb question but is the foam reusable if you take them down and store them?
I bought the strongest most expensive double sided tape in the hardware store and it still falls off. Any other tips for putting up the bass traps?
How should one plan to treat the room when there are windows?
Hi Moin - Thanks for your comment. This is a question we receive quite frequently. There are a couple ways you can handle this problem, but the first is to cover the window with a curtain. The thicker the curtain, the better - we recommend Rose Brand theater-style curtains. They can be pricey, but they have acoustic testing data to back their products and their quality is top-notch. Our favorite, simple option is to simply cover windows, glass doors, etc. with one of our Portable Treatment options like the ProMAX v2, MAX-Wall, or ProGO. These products make it easy to cover glass when you need to and then can be easily moved to let sunlight in when you don't. The other option is to build a custom window plug. Auralex carries a number of raw materials that can be used in the construction process. View our Acoustics 101 document for more information, windows are discussed on page 31. www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
You can attach the panels to a piece of wood and use suckers to put them and remove it from the glass when you want. It works very well.
This video is very informative, but I couldn't help thinking, that usually studio monitors would be facing the engineer... at an angle to form a triangle, unlike the zero degree angle the monitors in your video are facing, so my question is, would it not be more effective to have two smaller pieces of foam behind each monitor, because the triangular angle will have the backs of both monitors angleing away from the foam if it were placed in the centre like 6:50?
and one last thing. i have treated the front wall and the side reflections. i will take care at the bass traps, fo;;owing yours instructions. Next should i go for the upper cealing or should i go for my back wall? the upper wall is 2m behind my mixing potition.
@GeorgeXydous It is a little unclear of what products you want to treat your space with and where. Please email support@auralex.com and we can discuss this further in more detail to get you the best solution for your space!
As for the “mirror trick” this seems directed to if you were sitting on the couch listening to speakers, what if you’re standing in front of a mic doing audio recordings? Like voice over and whatnot
Hi Dusty - Thanks for your question. The "Mirror Trick" method works for any listening position. All you need to do is sit or stand in that location and have friend move the mirror along the wall, treat where you can see the reflection of the monitors.
What was the name of the company again?
man you sound like Charlie Sheen. good video!
This is like Wall Street without the stocks.
That's the real reason he is putting up the acoustic panels. T
o limit Alans voice from echoing.
Definitely Charlie! 😂🤣😄😅😆😃
Nope, I’m getting his old dad, Martin Sheen, 100%
@Rile Stream I'm convinced there's something to that. Very often when you hear someone who sounds like another, there's also a slight or even striking resemblance between the two. I dunno, might be something like a certain shape mouth, face, etc. contributes to the particular voice someone has.
Nice, but what frequencies do these bass traps operate on?
@JaroslawStepniak So when it comes to J-Mounted acoustical testing (testing done with the bass trap in the corner) there is no standard, but three different equations calculated with high level thinking. From our acoustic testing, the LENRD Bass Trap is effective down to 63 Hz and up. If you would like to see more information on this, you can find it on it's product page on our website. I have included the link here: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/
@@AuralexAcoustics thanks ! ok, but what is the low frequency wave absorption coefficient, or α?
How do I know if should rather use wedge-shaped absorbers as opposed to pyramid shaped absorbers? And another question: What is your take on installing absorbers on the ceiling above the engineer's position?
Hi Thilos - Thanks for your comment! To answer your first question - there are slight differences in the performance between some of the cuts, but mostly it boils down to aesthetics. View the test results here: www.auralex.com/tools/testing-data/performance-data/ So we usually advise that it's more important that you select a Studiofoam pattern that appeals to you.
We frequently spec ceiling diffusion in many room designs we complete. Having diffusion is especially important in small rooms, live rooms (particularly with drums), and home theaters. Any listening environment where a "larger" sound is desired and a shorter ceiling may be hampering that quality. Typically above a mix position though, we would recommend absorption rather than diffusion to help tame as much direct reflections and slap-back as possible. Hope that answers your questions and please let me know if you have others!
Auralex Acoustics Thank you for your comprehensive response. It does help me a lot. Yet I have another question. I have a curtain (albeit a rather thin one) in front of the large-twin window behind my studio monitor in a midsized control-room, with no live instruments being recorded in that room except maybe keyboards or bass through DI. Do you think I can try if the the curtain is sufficient as an absorber? Since I deem it to be quite elaborate to put absorbers before the window (maybe hanging from the ceiling on a wooden panel). Besides I like the daylight.
In this scenario, if want to keep your windows/daylight we have a couple options: Our first recommendation would usually be to go get a larger, thicker curtain. That way you have a non-permanent solution where you can still use your windows. The other option would be our ProMAX Portable Absorption Panels. These are stand-mounted absorption panels that you can place in front of the windows (along with the curtain you already have) when you're doing critical listening and then move when you want to let some light in. Making a custom diffusor (or absorber) to hang in front of the window is also another good idea if you're handy and fancy a project.
if your room is longer than usual and on the other end you have lets say an entertainment center (couch and tv) are diffusors necessary?
+Cam Par Hi Cam - Thanks for your comment! Diffusion, much like other aspects of acoustics, is a highly debated topic. We generally recommend diffusion in a recording environment where you want to retain some "live" feel. In most cases this is the desired sound for percussion, orchestral, and woodwind instruments. In a home theater setting, this would be be more of a personal choice. That is to say, it depends on whether you'd like a more lively feel or a more controlled environment. If you are leaning towards the latter, you may want to lean towards having absorption panels on the rear wall. Either way, the end goal is the same here - to control room ring and slap-back echo. Here is some further reading on Diffusors that may help you make a decision: www.auralex.com/faq/what-is-a-diffusor/ I hope that helps to answer your question. Please let us know if can help with any others. Thanks!
AuralexAcoustics thanks for the detailed reply, appreciated.
What would you do if you have window lets say to the right of the desk in video. how do you go about dealing with the windows
Hi Koios - There are a number of different ways to help control windows in a critical listening space. The first thing we recommend for windows is to get a thick, theater style curtain. We don't produce, but we usually like to suggest Rose Brand: www.rosebrand.com/ Our usual go-to method is to use a Portable Treatment option like ProMAX or a ProGO to create a "false wall" and cover the glass with absorption. The last way is the most difficult, but perhaps the best - to build a Window "Plug." Use some acoustic material cut to the exact measurement and shape of the window, and then use absorption material like Studiofoam or Fiberglass on the outside layer. Hope that is helpful!
If you would like a more customized plan of action for your particular room remember to submit a FREE Personalized Room Analysis on Auralex.com!
My monitor is basically a tv, where do I place my panels? behind it or above it?
inside it >:)
In front of it. The TV is highly reflective of sound waves.
Hi what size are these panels in the video the acoustic squares and the bass traps please as I'm turning my bedroom into a studio !! Thanks kindly Jade
Hi Jade - These are 2'x2' ft Studiofoam Panels, the Bass Traps are called LENRDs. They are 1' wide x 1' deep x 2' long. Here is more data on them: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/ Let me know if you have any more questions!
Quick question, I am currently living in university halls & need to think of a method to stop sounds from leaking through the walls as my neighbours are complaining. would a set of absorption panels put in the right places and a pair of bass traps help me out?? If not what else could you suggest I do thank you.
Absorption panels eliminate reflections of a sound source within the room; they don't necessarily stop sounds from going through the walls. If there is any difference, it would be very subtle, although it may not be enough to rectify the situation of sound travelling into other rooms nearby.
Does this product work for the ones who only want to reduce the noise that come from other room?
yea, its basically sound insulation
do you recommend just doing the whole room, covering all the walls with the panels?
+Tradeworker 760 Hi! Thanks for your comment! We typically do NOT recommend using 100% acoustical treatment in any recording environment (with the possible exception of Voiceover work). Please read this FAQ about this subject:
www.auralex.com/faq/how-much-should-i-cover-my-walls-with-studiofoam/
+AuralexAcoustics thank you for this useful information. I look forward to using your product.
Great very clear demo, but how much would it cost to have the installation that is seen at 1:21?
is it true that foam doesn't absorb low frequencies at all?
Hi Javi, foam products are less absorptive than other materials, particularly for low frequencies. That's why our Studiofoam products are paired with Bass Traps that are much thicker. You can see how much our different thicknesses of Studiofoam absorbs on our website here: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-wedges/
Yes that’s true, foam bass traps are crap.
So if there is a few windows will this still help or is it just a waste of money?
I'm trying to quiet my room so I can record, right now, there's a lot of noise from my ac & an echo that's annoying. What should I get for better recording?
Hi Apollo -Thanks for your question. We have a FREE Room Analysis Service for people like you who need advice and ideas for treating their spaces. Visit Auralex.com/praf and fill out the form - an Application Specialist will deliver you a 2D drawing of your space with Auralex Panels placed in the best locations.
whats better to cover the wall behind my back? im in another position now, monitors are pointed to my face,but experiencing a lil reverb behind me, because my back is almost against a wall, im thinkin bout the wedge or pyramid panels?
I read in another article from another acoustician that dampening the front wall is unnecessary simply because high frequencies project forward from the speakers, and 2 inch foam is practically useless for low frequencies. Instead it's best to use bass traps. I could be wrong but it did seem to make sense.
Pri yon Joni that does make sense but remember the louder the speaker level and the size room will impact how the forward high frequency will bounce back and forth from the back wall so that might be when the front wall absorbers come into effect.
how would it sound, using auralex foam for the entire recording area?
What if you're speakers aren't up against a wall? The wall is about 8 ft from the wall do I still need to do it?
Hi tropikiimba - Thanks for the question! Usually the most recommended position for speakers is NOT against the wall. Obviously every room is different and presents its unique challenges with its size and layout - but we typically adhere to the 38% Rule. The idea is that the best listening position (or "sweet spot") is at 38% of the longest dimension, this is the place where many common frequencies modes and nodes are most minimized. More info here: www.auralex.com/acoustical-terms-index/ Please let us know if you have any further questions! Thx
Hi, I have window on my right of the speakers. Should I be putting some foam there?
Hi Yash -
There are a couple of ways you can deal with windows in your studio space. The easiest way is to simply use a Portable/Stand-mounted option such as our ProMAX Panels to place in front of the window: www.auralex.com/product/promax/
You could also build a DIY window plug using Studiofoam as the outside layer. We have some tips and tricks on building those in our Acoustics 101 Resource: www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
Hope that helps answer your questions - feel free to ask more you may have! - Auralex
how is it possible for the diffuser to work as an absorber the way described if sound would not pass through the plastic into the absorber component?
With a diffusor like the T'Fusor, the shell reflects most high frequencies but lower frequencies (long wavelengths) travel through it easier. Backfilling it with loose insulation or absorptive materials like the SonoFiber shown will absorb some of that sound before it bounces off the wall. It effectively becomes a diffusor with low end absorption.
It's important to note that all physical materials absorb, reflect, and let sound transfer through at different amounts.
Can I use this to soundproof my door for privacy? Not just to block in sound for studio purposes.
Hi Oliver - Auralex Studiofoam (and all other acoustical wall panels from any manufacturer) are designed to absorb & control sound WITHIN a room. It is not designed for SOUND ISOLATION - to keep sound INSIDE or OUTSIDE of a space you need mass and basically an airtight, gapless seal around the perimeter of the room. Think of it like keeping water inside a room - sound will find any hole or crevice to escape. However, we do produce products to help with this type of project. Check out our Construction/Isolation products on Auralex.com, this video: ruclips.net/video/PASWdiIVqIk/видео.html or our Construction Calculator App the RLX at rlx.auralex.com for more information.
I am trying to prevent noise from an upstairs roommate. I live downstairs
The best way to do would be to isolate the ceiling or float the upstairs floor. Unfortunately there isn't really any other way to do properly and get good results. Sound Isolation is usually a major construction project. Please refer to our RLX application at rlx.auralex.com for more infomation on isolating a space.Please do not hesitate to let me know if you have any further questions.
Before I order any foam, should I move my studio from L-shaped room to a rectangle shaped? How much other objects like, tables and shelves impact the sound in a home studio, should they be eliminated if possible?
@lowmike When it comes to the shape of a room, a rectangle is going to be the more cooperative space to work with, and is most ideal. L-shaped rooms can also be treated, but due to their shape, the sound will travel differently, so treating reflection points can take more thought. In regards to other objects, it can depend on how effectively the room can be treated, while working around pieces of furniture. The less reflective surfaces you have in the room, the better. If it is not crucial that they be in there, it would probably be best to take them out. This can allow more room for treatment.
Sorry I'm new to treatment
But why would a bass trap go high when bass is something that is low ?
I thought bass you can't hear above etc
+Diego Fernandez Hi Diego - Thanks for reaching out to us! This is a question we get asked quite frequently. When it comes to Bass Trapping, the idea is to focus the treatment where the Bass builds up in a room. The corners are particularly a big problem area in small rooms. If possible or reasonable we would ultimately suggest covering all the way from floor to ceiling with Bass Traps in all small room corner scenarios. Most of the time this is just isn't possible either for space or budgetary restrictions - especially a home studio. So, if that isn't something that can done - we would then recommend starting ceiling to floor to cover most of the wall surfaces that are in more of a direct reflection path to the (seated) listening position and standing people in the room. Assuming a normal home studio ceiling height of 8' - even with a few LENRD Bass Traps per corner you able to get great coverage in the place where it will make the most difference in a small room. Hope that helps to explain our method a bit more and please let us know if we can answer any other questions. Thanks again! - Auralex
+Diego Fernandez lol i know auralex did not answer your question lol bass is what we define as a frequency from different levels from 20hz being the lowest we humans can hear... to around 60hz to 80hz... sound does not travel in just a flat direction... it goes both up and down... so even high parts of the rooms you would get bass build up...
if i want to soundproof a room, do i just put those all across the wall? no space in between?
I cant glue or put any holes or nails in my walls.
What kind of double sided tape or stuff can I use that will stick to the walls well enough to hold a foam panel but peel off without damaging the walls? my walls really reject scotch double sided tape sticking and even duct tape. so i need something that sticks just a little better than double sided scotch tape. but not too well.
command strips rip a layer of my wall off they stick too well no matter how carefully i try to remove them its like they have superglue on them instead of just tape adhesive.
Hi Realflow -
Thanks for your comment. We get this question quite a bit and hopefully I have a simple solution for you with our EZ-Stick Pro Tabs. They are like Command Strips and I see you say you can't use these because they will harm the wall. I actually had the same problem in my apartment. My idea was to use packing tape on the wall surface itself and then adhere the EZ-Stick Pro Tabs to the tape. I rolled the end of the tape back on itself to create a "pull tab" for easy removal. The tape peels off quickly and easily without causing damage in my case, so this might work for you as well. Please let me know if you have success with this method! Thanks!
that sounds like a great idea! I'll try that!!
@@realflow100 Glad I could help, please let me know if it works for you!
much like if you've ever moved home and you've emptied everything out of your living room you'll notice that the room is reverberating, which it never did before. that is because there isn't as much stuff in the room to diffuse the sound waves. with it empty the waves can bounce of the walls and corners straight back into your ear, and even carry on going for a second or so. pads help by adding more randomness to the remaining large flat areas of the room
2 concerns up front. The first thing is NOT to put a single 1" foam panel on the front wall! What is true is what he says about the speaker-boundary reflection interference. Rather, the "1st thing" that should be done is to reduce that problem by pulling the speakers away from the front wall! No cost. Huge improvement! 2nd thing to do is to recognize that the speaker pressure interference cannot be solved by 1" foam! 1" foam works for tweeters (i.e. high energy), which is directional. Notice the tweeters and high energy is facing the room/mix position. So, 1" will be largely unhelpful here to solve that issue. It will be worthwhile for reducing "flutter echoes" if the rear wall is untreated. But to solve his mentioned problem of omnidirectional lower frequencies that DO bounce off the wall and reflect back to the mix position delayed, causing smearing, will require mass, depth, and low energy pressure treatment. Foam can be great for mid to high frequency issues though.
Hi Craig - Thanks for your comment. You are ABSOLUTELY correct about moving the desk away from the wall being a great first step to address speaker boundary interference issues. It would have obviously been better if Terry had mentioned that in this video, and explained that due to the setup of this particular room (a very small office here at our HQ) that placing the monitors and the desk any further back would block the entrance to the room.
To address your first comment about the panels used in this room - they are 2" Studiofoam Wedges Panels - if you look at the chart on this page: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-wedges/ you will see that 2" has significantly better mid-high, and mid-range performance than 1" Wedges. Studiofoam is a turn-key, small, easy-to-install, cost-effective, and reasonably broadband absorber that is great for controlling slap-back echo, flutter echo, and first reflection points (especially in small rooms and project studios). You are also exactly right about needing more mass and depth to combat lower-mid and low frequencies. These frequencies tend to congregate in the corners of the room, so that is where we tend to concentrate our deeper and larger LENRD Bass Traps. More info on them, including testing data here: www.auralex.com/product/lenrd-bass-traps/ I hope that helps to explain our philosophy and please let us know if you'd like to discuss anything further or have other questions. Thanks! ~ Auralex
Doesn't this guy realize that studio monitor placement is equally important as well?? The speakers in this video are pointed straight ahead...wtf?They should be positioned in an equilateral triangle.
Hi Philo - Thanks for your comment. Yes, you are exactly right! This was a simple video shot in one of our (less than ideal) office rooms, and in this case - placing the mix position at 38% (moving the monitors) was impossible since this would have blocked a door. We have other resources that speak to the optimum placement of monitors and listening position. Check them out here: auralex.com/studio/ Thanks again for pointing that out!
It's not compulsory pal. Ears!
Im doing voice-overs, is it better to treat my room or use the foam to create a booth to record in?
Gabriel Barinas Sánchez Hi Gabriel. Thanks for the question! For recording voiceovers we would recommend creating a booth with approximately 40-50% coverage. This depends on how "live" you would like your recordings to sound. If you would like more personalized advice please submit a Personalized Room Analysis Form (PRAF) at www.auralex.com/praf/
How did you place the foam on the walls?
I'm trying to get ideas to permanently fix the panels on the walls as well as the upper corners.
+Shankul Chavan Thanks for reaching out! Here is a link to all of our adhesive www.auralex.com/products/absorption/adhesives/ Hope that helps you!
Does that adhesive stick the normal foam on wall too?
Like the ones that are used on making sofa.
The sponge kind?
and do they work if you want to stick the foam on ceiling ?
+Shankul Chavan I used self adhesive velcro to mount mine. Really happy with the results.
+Shankul Chavan I can't say for sure if it isn't our product because we haven't tested it. But please let me caution you about using regular "bedding foam" for acoustic treatment. This is something we need to address from time to time because of the perception that even though it may look and feel similar to our foam, the make-up and structure is different. Our Studiofoam products are made from a high density, open-cell proprietary material.
They are specifically designed to do 2 functional jobs:
1.) To absorb soundwaves at particular frequencies (they aren't tuned, but through independent acoustic testing we are aware of where each cut, profile, and thickness excels - see testing data for our products at auralex.com)
2.) All of our Studiofoam products are flame-retardant to some degree (many are Class B Fire-Rated), a few of them are Class A Fire-Rated which means they are safe and legal to install in commercial applications in many countries.
These are 2 things that regular store-bought bedding foam simply cannot offer. Depending on the cut and thickness some foam may absorb sound, but without acoustic testing data how can you have any idea what it is achieving? Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, bedding foam is generally very flammable and could be very dangerous or even illegal to place on wall surfaces. Hope that helps to clear up a bit about all of that.
Thanks for the comment.
I'm only gonna using the bedding foam to fill up the top corners. I just want to remove the reflections that occur at the dihedral corners, as my budget can allow me to do only that.
As for the recording booth I'm using the wedge foam. :)
Does it make a difference if the flat side or pyramid side of the foam is facing the wall?
When did Emilio Estevez get into acoustic treatments?
:) He hears Charlie Sheen a lot, as well.
@@AuralexAcoustics Not Charlie, Martin.
I live in an apartment (basement floor) and the people above me are noisy and it interferes with my zone whenever they’re home. I want to keep from hearing them and also be able to record as loud as I want.. does this help?
@TheUniVsInfinite When it comes to sound travelling from one space to another, you’re really looking at a sound isolation issue, and that usually is because of how that space is constructed. Unfortunately, that means in order to fix something like that, it involves a bit of a construction project. Our Studiofoam and ProPanel products are primarily used to help control reflections and standing waves, not for isolation purposes. I have included links to our construction/isolation products and links to more detailed information about doing a project like this to give you a better idea of the potential project you may be looking at:
auralex.com/shop/isolation/
support.auralex.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002458191-Construction-Guides
If you have any other questions, please contact support@auralex.com.
I just want it to play saxophone. Do I have to soundproof my hold room?
bloodmarth Hi Blood - I think you may be confusing Sound ABSORPTION vs. Sound ISOLATION. Absorption helps to reduce unwanted reflections, slap-back echo, and coloration. This is what is being shown here. If you are interested in Sound ISOLATION (Sound Proofing) please view our resource Acoustics 101 at:
www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
no one talks about windows.. where is the best to sit when there's a huge window taking a whole wall?
Hi Fokushi - That's a great question. When dealing with a window we have several different recommendations:
The first is to cover it with a large, heavy, theater-style curtain. While these can be a little pricey, Rose Brand www.rosebrand.com/ makes extremely high-quality and very effective acoustical curtains that even feature acoustical testing data.
The second easier and less-permanent option is to use a Portable Treatment option like our
stand-mounted ProMAX V2 Panels. www.auralex.com/product/promax/ These are easy to move around your room and can quickly create a partition to block a window or create a makeshift vocal booth.
The third idea is perhaps the best if you are handy, enjoy a DIY project, and have a smaller window. This method is to build a window "plug" - the base material can be anything that can be cut to shape to fit securely within the window sill/frame. Once you have cut your base, cover the outside (side facing into the room) with Studiofoam and you have a removable acoustic panel that also blocks your window. Just Google "window plug" and you will find lots of information and ideas.
I would also invite you to submit a FREE Personalized Room Analysis through Auralex.com/praf/ that will help give you a better idea of some ideal treatment options. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Fokushi so
What if you are doing video and that window is an excellent source of light?
Hi G. Jorge - Any of the three methods mentioned above can be/are temporary. That way when it isn't necessary to worry about critical listening you can simply remove them from the windows to get your sunlight fix!
What if I need both, the window light AND record a video?
Where should I place the panels in that case?
is it a good or bad idea to put foam on the wall directly behind the monitors?
4:36 Diffusors or... Transformers?? 😄
"Autobots! Diffuse the room!"
So just one foam treatment panel behind your computer screen would be sufficient?
@BloodyShrine What Terry was saying is that if you didn't have many panels to begin with, and you are working in a small studio, then one panel could be sufficient to make a difference in your home studio. This can depend greatly on what you are doing in the room, as well as how big your space is. Generally, we suggest four 2' x 2' panels in front on your mix position, as well as the same amount of panels above, behind and to the right and left of your mix position. Again, each room varies on how much treatment you need when taking into consideration the size and purpose for the space.
Studio has two monitors almost touching the wall and perpendicular to it as well. So that's the end of the demonstration at 0:18
Hey mate, good video, Just a question, would the tiles work just as well if you place them on a roof that's curved?
What about keeping sound out from the neighbors apartment? Can these panels act as a double edge sword here?
Hi Lextacy - This is a great question we get pretty frequently and is a very common misconception about acoustic panels. These panels and any other panels which are simply placed on a wall are NOT meant to stop sound transmission between spaces. They are intended to help manage and improve sound WITHIN a space. If your main goal is stop sound leakage into or out of a space the process (or Isolate the sapce) is unfortunately a bit more difficult. It is a more of a construction project than simply placing panels on the wall. The best and most effective way we recommend is to build what is commonly referred to as the room-within-a-room method. It involves building inside walls on top of the already existing structures. See an example here: ruclips.net/video/PASWdiIVqIk/видео.html You can also get an idea of what it would take to completely isolate your small (
Thanks for the input!
@@AuralexAcoustics You're right, a box in a box works for a lot of it. I was told to use plywood, two layers on either side, one layer vertical, one horizontal.
Plus window stuffs and double doors. Cost: about 4,000, plus a double door...
mirror method just blew my brain into pieces
How could I treat a window? Would it work if I block the window by hanging a panel of its size?
Would this work for an echo in an office? I work in sales and am on the phone all day. I have a terrible echo in my office
Hi Chris - Thanks for your question! Yes, all Auralex wall panel products are designed to help tame reflections and echos inside a space. If you have a commercial office, you may need to abide by local fire regulations. This means the wall panels will most likely have to meet a Class-A Fire Rating. These laws differ by state and/or city so you should discuss this with your local fire marshal. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
@@AuralexAcoustics I think they should ALWAYS be the higher-grade/more flame-proof.
A, I was paranoid about fire long before the stupidity with Great White/Jack Russell.
and B, if you do your acoustics RIGHT, you're unlikely to hear any smoke alarm OUTSIDE the room. Inside, it's pretty sealed up. Especially if you do double doors like a real studio and window stuffs that are a good foot thick.
You ALWAYS have to be prepared with a fire extinguisher right at hand. I've known a few people who were there for stage fires and studio fires. Candles cause 30% more fires, so DON'T use them. In fact, Black Peas started an accidental fire in a studio that way.
The fake ones with the moving "flame" look great behind frosted glass and you can't tell the difference. Bonus, no worries about spilled wax (a clue: it sucks).
Any drapes should fit that fire-resistant grade imo, too.
The good stuff is REAL expensive. Just heads-up. Cheap packing foam=bad (Great White covered that whole area for $600.00, as seen in longer video before fire starts).
Also, THINK. Any adhesive might contribute to a potential fire. Any foam covering (such as flat foam) that was there BEFORE can make a potential fire REALLY deadly (back to "Killer Show" the lawyer's book on Great White's 4th deadliest nightclub or theater fire in US). NO "foam sandwiches!"
Think about everything in the room and how you'd get out. Window stuffs are great, but not to easy to get in or out of place.
They DO make some noise reduction paint and clear noise reduction film for windows if noise might bother your neighbors. Saw it on "Hotel Impossible."
I think every state should require fire extinguishers near any PA or lighting (lights are REALLY HOT). Note: Just 3 db of bass increase is double the power. Just for the record.
Hi Terry!
Thank you very much for this fabulous video!
If i only use bass traps, this should dramatically lower the noise for my neighbours, right ?
regards
Auralex is good at absorbing sound within the room, but how is it for soundproofing, mitigating sound outside of a room? For instance, im a drummer.
Hi filitalian - Thanks for the question! This is something we get asked quite frequently. It is important to note that Sound Absorption and Sound Isolation (sometimes called "soundproofing") are two different goals for a space.
Sound Absorption is controlling sound INSIDE a room - this helps to control harsh reflections, slapback echo, reverberation, etc. Sound Isolation is controlling sound that travels FROM ROOM TO ROOM (OUTSIDE). Using absorption treatment in a space can sometimes help to isolate it to a small degree, but that isn't the main purpose. Think of sound almost like water in a room, it will find a way to escape through any crack or hole. So in order for a room to be truly isolated it needs to be basically airtight - this usually that involves a construction process and a method which is sometimes referred to as "room-within-a-room" construction. To understand this process and for DIY tips please view our resource Acoustics101 here: www.auralex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/acoustics101v3_0.pdf
Thanks for the info and quick response. I'm looking at options for a room of a house i'm moving into, and looking at sound isolation and room acoustics ideas.
AuralexAcoustics you guys forgot to mention that it's WAY more expensive lol, my drum teacher had a room within a room in his backyard shed, double doors, double entries and then carpet inside with soundproofing boards, perfect for drums but cost thousands.
Great job differentiating the two!
@@GabrielXDrums I think they now have sound sucking paint and adhesive stick ones for windows for hotels next to a loud bar. That would be fairly cheap, I'd think.
Or, you could just get to be a better drummer. lol :) I play drums, too.
what kind of glue do you use. is they take me off all the time thanks
Would these methods work if im creating a drum studio? or would i need to compensate for the loundness/high frequencies of a drum set?
Wait a second, you covered the electrical outlet with acoustic foam? Wouldn't this be a bad idea? Seems like it would be against code in most areas (although I'm not an expert so idk)
Hi Collectible Squash - Thanks for your comment. To answer your question, no, we certainly don't recommend covering outlets with acoustic materials. This is simply an example for demonstration purposes. Studiofoam is a great material to use for wall surfaces that have obstacles because it can trimmed to fit a tight spot or even cut into custom sizes or shapes. Hope that answers your question, please let us know if you have additional ones.
I have a rice paper screen on the very left side of my studio, then it goes back about 4 or 5 feet to the wall... would this cause an issue? should I take it down? thanks for the help
This helped me immensely! Thank you so much!
Hi Keith - You're welcome! Thanks for your support!
This is all well and good but how come they don't make white acoustic foam that doesn't yellow? No one has black walls after all
When you say "bass trap", what absorption levels are you talking about over what frequency range. Acoustic foam doesn't do much for the lower frequencies, so they really aren't trapping bass frequencies.
Can you place them over a wallpaper?
@codullah You can place treatment over wallpaper! Our adhesives are meant to adhere to a variety of surfaces. A majority of our adhesives are also permanent, so we like to include that if you were to adhere them to a painted wall or wallpaper in your case, and you were to remove it, it would pull paint or wallpaper off of the wall. If you wanted to avoid that, we have a few temporary suggestions like t-pins or adhering the foam to a light substrate, and then hanging it like a picture on the wall.
How much should I get for a really small room
Hi - Thanks for reaching out to us. The best advice I can give you without knowing more about the room is to use our Room Treatment App called the RLX. It's free and with a little bit of information about your room it will return up to 3 different results. Check it out: www.auralex.com/news-rlx/ And certainly let me know if you have any other questions.
What if you don't have speakers, what should the mirror reflect?
@weetztbat The mirror trick is intended to help you place treatment in reference to your mix position. Treatment can be placed differently depending on what you are treating the space for. It's definitely important to place treatment based on the first reflection points from yourself (immediately left, right, above, behind and front). If you have further questions, please contact support@auralex.com
@@AuralexAcoustics i want to record vocals.. would i just insert myself facing outward in the same position the speakers are facing outward? Since I, like the speakers, am the source of the sound?
@@weetzybat When recording vocals, you want to treat your room a bit heavier on absorption. I have included a link to our website about treating a vocal booth: auralex.com/vocal-booth/ . Also, you could take advantage of our portable treatment. This allows you to get clean vocal recordings without having to treat the entire room! I have included a link to those as well, along with a link to our version of a mic shield, the MudGuard V2: auralex.com/shop/portable/ and auralex.com/mudguard/. In terms of where to place yourself in the room, just ensure that you have treatment in reference to where you will be recording yourself and those first reflection points: to the left, right, front, above and back of you. I hope you have found this helpful! If you have further questions, please contact support@auralex.com.
Are you using double sided tape to attach them to the wall?
@SnowflakesFalling We have a few different adhesives that we suggest when installing our products. We have a spray on adhesive, a liquid based adhesive and press on tabs. I have included a link from our website where you can find all of the adhesives we have to offer: www.auralex.com/products/absorption/adhesives/. Usually for our Studiofoam products, such as the ones shown here, we suggest either the spray on adhesive, our Foamtak, or our EZ-Stick Pro Tabs. The T'Fusors are usually installed either in a drop tile grid or also adhered with EZ-Stick Pro Tabs.
I have a mancave that I use for podcasting as well as entertaining guest during events at my home. I know these things must work great but my issue with using these is that they would look a bit distracting and unatractive. If it was just a studio space then I would say okay lets do it. However this room is part of my home so I think those would look real tacky hanging on walls. Its like having a brand new $1000.00 suit on with Payless shoes on your feet. Its like having a beautiful living room with those wedge foams hanging on the walls. Just wouldnt look good if I hung up those wedge foams. Anyone know any alternatives beside these (or blankets)?
Sometimes you got to make a choice on which is more important. But also, they have different colored foam so if you're good at designing then you can just repaint the walls and get the colored foam.
Hi Andre - Thanks for your question, this is something we hear quite often. If you wanted to stick with a Studiofoam material we offer a design called Studiofoam Pro which is a simple beveled-edge, flat-faced panel. View info here: www.auralex.com/product/studiofoam-pro/ If you are looking for something a bit more designer/stylish we also offer a number of types of fabric-wrapped Panels. 1" SonoLite Panels in Black and Tan: www.auralex.com/product/sonolite/ And our highest preforming, most popular product: ProPanel Acoustic Panels: www.auralex.com/products/absorption/propanel-absorption-panels/ These are available in 1"- 4" and come in a variety of different fabric choices.
I hope that provides you with some better information about our available product range - please let me know if you have any further questions! - Auralex
Thank you Auralex
High end studios use custom-made baffles. Please make sure you get stuff that won't be highly toxic in a fire. Fire-resistant or fireproof stuff isn't cheap.
Blankets, btw, do nothing.
You COULD use a wall of books or records at different depths. I haven't heard it, but I could see that.