Also you can put a very durable finish on it the kind that pool cue makers use which is super glue. They put on a wet coat of super glue as they're turning the butt end and after they apply it with a cloth they spray it with an accelerator/hardener and then they sand in between coats and usually put three or four coats on and it produces a glass-like finish.
As an avid woodworker and fly fisherman, I'd just like to say very nice sir. My one question is why put the tung oil over the shellac? Two coats of shellac will act like a pore filler leaving the real seat incapable of absorbing the tung oil. Please don't think I'm being critical or disrespectful that is not my intention, rather I'm just curios about your process.
excellent job, very well done! If you can help me, I ask how you end the protection of the reel seat. I realize you use Shellac. Translation is difficult, you can help me with the name of a shellac brand. how many coats do you apply, thank you so much. Paulo Cruz from Portugal
Paulo. The Shellac I've used is Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (clear transparent) as a pre-treatment prior to a tung oil finish on very dense woods. Some very dense woods (like ebony) don't allow for the oil finishes to penetrate very deeply, and after about a year of exposure to the environment of fishing tend to start chipping off. Shellac seems to stick to just about any kind of wood. Two coats of Shellac prior to applying the oil finishes (about 8 coats) seems to work much better as a long term finish on reel seat inserts. Most woods (like maple) allow for good penetration of the oil finish and don't need shellac.
How do you finish the wood. you said 2 coats of shellac and then 8 coats of tung oil finish, then wax. Is it right? Why you did not do while turning the blank on lathe and that will shine and smooth I think
You cannot finish the wood insert on the lathe because there is still the mortise to cut on the router table. After the mortise is cut, then some hand sanding is necessary. Then it is time to wipe on the various coats of finish.
+colbeeb The left side of the threaded rod is being held by a 3 jaw chuck. The right side is held with a 60 degree live center. The right end of the threaded rod has a hole drilled in the end with a 60 degree center drill that the live center on the lathe fits into.
Here is a link to the 60 degree center drill bits I use to drill the hole in the threaded rod. www.amazon.com/Center-Degree-Combined-Countersink-Machinist/dp/B014LQM0VK
Mary Ann Dozer Thank you very much . I will buy that set now. It has bits 1-5 which number shall I use? Also how far do you drill into the threaded rod? Sorry for all the questions
Depends on the size of the threaded rod. I use a #2 on a 5/16" rod and a #3 on a 3/8" rod. Don't drill deeper than the angled end of the bit or it will not fit properly with the live center.
Hi Guys, I use a Fingernail bit from Rockler (www.rockler.com) for cutting the mortis’ on my reel seats. You’ll need a 1/2″ router for this bit. Here is the link to this specific bit:www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5713&site=ROCKLER . You need to make your cuts very precisely, and I also purchased a router table from Rockler, along with an Incra Jig (www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494&site=ROCKLER) to help with the positioning of the cuts. Good Luck! Dave Dozer www.bamboopursuits@comcast.net
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All I needed to see!
We need more videos!!!
Also you can put a very durable finish on it the kind that pool cue makers use which is super glue. They put on a wet coat of super glue as they're turning the butt end and after they apply it with a cloth they spray it with an accelerator/hardener and then they sand in between coats and usually put three or four coats on and it produces a glass-like finish.
Looks awesome:-)
Awesome, thanks!
Nice thanks for sharing.
i like your jig and it works well but what do you use to stabilize the live side of your lathe so the bolt stays nice and straight?
Best grain/figure-popping finish is boiled linseed oil and a French polish or a hand-rubbed oil finish after the B.L.O.
Great video. Curious as to the hand sanding you mention. How do you sand the groove so it keeps its sharp lines?
Fold the sandpaper in half and use the edge to carefully get the groove.
Like friends..
As an avid woodworker and fly fisherman, I'd just like to say very nice sir. My one question is why put the tung oil over the shellac? Two coats of shellac will act like a pore filler leaving the real seat incapable of absorbing the tung oil. Please don't think I'm being critical or disrespectful that is not my intention, rather I'm just curios about your process.
You're correct any oil should be used before you put a top coat on. It helps pop the grain and the figure.
excellent job, very well done!
If you can help me, I ask how you end the protection of the reel seat. I realize you use Shellac. Translation is difficult, you can help me with the name of a shellac brand. how many coats do you apply,
thank you so much.
Paulo Cruz from Portugal
Paulo. The Shellac I've used is Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (clear transparent) as a pre-treatment prior to a tung oil finish on very dense woods. Some very dense woods (like ebony) don't allow for the oil finishes to penetrate very deeply, and after about a year of exposure to the environment of fishing tend to start chipping off. Shellac seems to stick to just about any kind of wood. Two coats of Shellac prior to applying the oil finishes (about 8 coats) seems to work much better as a long term finish on reel seat inserts. Most woods (like maple) allow for good penetration of the oil finish and don't need shellac.
How do you finish the wood. you said 2 coats of shellac and then 8 coats of tung oil finish, then wax. Is it right? Why you did not do while turning the blank on lathe and that will shine and smooth I think
You cannot finish the wood insert on the lathe because there is still the mortise to cut on the router table. After the mortise is cut, then some hand sanding is necessary. Then it is time to wipe on the various coats of finish.
Thanks
Hi can you let me know the name and size of the bit you used?. Thanks !
Fernando, you can find the information you're looking for at this post on my WEB page: bamboopursuits.com/?p=2275
Dear Mr. Dozer
How are you holding the threaded rod on the right side of the lathe? is it being gripped by a 3 jaw chuck?
+colbeeb The left side of the threaded rod is being held by a 3 jaw chuck. The right side is held with a 60 degree live center. The right end of the threaded rod has a hole drilled in the end with a 60 degree center drill that the live center on the lathe fits into.
dave dozer
Dear Dave,
Can you please post a link of such a drill bit to drill a nice center in the threaded rod.
All the best
Colbee
Here is a link to the 60 degree center drill bits I use to drill the hole in the threaded rod. www.amazon.com/Center-Degree-Combined-Countersink-Machinist/dp/B014LQM0VK
Mary Ann Dozer
Thank you very much . I will buy that set now. It has bits 1-5 which number shall I use? Also how far do you drill into the threaded rod?
Sorry for all the questions
Depends on the size of the threaded rod. I use a #2 on a 5/16" rod and a #3 on a 3/8" rod. Don't drill deeper than the angled end of the bit or it will not fit properly with the live center.
whats the name of that router bit and the size?
Fingernail bit Grizzly 215 I think
Hi Guys,
I use a Fingernail bit from Rockler (www.rockler.com) for cutting the mortis’ on my reel seats. You’ll need a 1/2″ router for this bit. Here is the link to this specific bit:www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5713&site=ROCKLER . You need to make your cuts very precisely, and I also purchased a router table from Rockler, along with an Incra Jig (www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494&site=ROCKLER) to help with the positioning of the cuts. Good Luck!
Dave Dozer
www.bamboopursuits@comcast.net
Was wandering if you are interested in turning me some custom inserts
I'm sorry Brad, but I only make reel seat inserts for my rods.