There is always more than one way to skin a cat, I would have fitted the false spars after the nose section of the rib but that is how I learnt to do it. I agree the build will take what it takes for that individual, for me is was space for the machines and the availablity of aircraft grade wood other than Douglas Fir, that made the choice for me. In the past I had a workshop about 5 time the size I have now with all the machine and a hangar next to it. With my kit the false spar angle has not been machined.
Yeah he would love this, he was always working with wood... he built a wood airplane in the backyard when we were like 4 years old that had controls that actually moved the plane... maybe that's where I caught the bug??
There is always more than one way to skin a cat, I would have fitted the false spars after the nose section of the rib but that is how I learnt to do it. I agree the build will take what it takes for that individual, for me is was space for the machines and the availablity of aircraft grade wood other than Douglas Fir, that made the choice for me. In the past I had a workshop about 5 time the size I have now with all the machine and a hangar next to it. With my kit the false spar angle has not been machined.
Lol i can hear your dad talking to you
Great man, glad to say i knew him
Yeah he would love this, he was always working with wood... he built a wood airplane in the backyard when we were like 4 years old that had controls that actually moved the plane... maybe that's where I caught the bug??
@@sawyersdad5292
Even your dads train set downstairs was amazing
Are those strut attach fitting holes Ok being so close to the edge of the blocking?
It is not centred but with the bushing it should be fine, I may bond and extra 1/2" to the forward part of the cross-member.