How to Install Pex Pipe Waterlines in Your Home . Step 1 Plumbing Tips
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2012
- This is a video on choosing the fittings, clamps, bend supports and tools to install pex waterlines. Two full baths,kitchen sink, washer, laundry tub and outside faucets.
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Whoa! look at all them fittings! One day I'll be lucky enough to work with Pex. Seems like a cool system. Look forward to more videos on this project Al. Take care.
Thanks for a very informative video!, I'm a government commercial and residential building inspector for a local county. The video will help folks feel more comfortable doing this kind of retrofit..I'll be watching for part two!
Hey Al !!
What a great overview of the Pex fittings and accessories! I see lots of items here that I never knew existed! I think you are right when you say Pex is the way of the times, it
is here to stay!
I believe you are right about the water heater factory having a button they press when your water heater is done. It's a wonder they don't offer an auto ship program..lol!
Thanks for this informative, educational video!!
I'm looking forward to the rest of the Epic mini series!!
Ray
Thanks AL , yes ,compression valves and right on, their plastic oval handles. When I installed them years ago I soldered them on to the copper pipe.
oh yeah those vacuum breakers are code required here in the U.S. At lease in my state. Just finished the entire video very informative thanks Al. thumbs up!
Hello Dicofile;
Glad you like the series!
I am not a big fan of Sharkbite, but they have been around for 17 years and are beginning to make a statement in North America. I still like solid connections myself,but have used sharkbite in a few places. I am doing a connection in the future on a 1 1/2" line that has steady water flowing out of it and am using a sharkbite ball valve to shut it off.
I have seen a few of the flex connections and they seem to work fine.
Tks 4 commenting!! Al
I work at a local Hardware store and your videos are a huge help! Thank you!
Hello Georgia Flyer,
You are more than welcome!
I am glad they help you out!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thanks for the info Al. Im still fairly new at this and im still debating what trade area I like to focus on. YES much much cheaper.
your welcome. Enjoy your day and project as well and thanks again!
thanks; great video; clear & helpful - the whole series
Thanks for making these, very informative. I’ve only worked on copper or pvc and this was good at explaining how to install and the tools needed in advance
Hello Frederick,
You're welcome!
It's always good to expand one's knowledge base by experimenting with new products! Helps to keep you sharp!
Hopefully it helps with any future projects you may take on.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
William , You are right about Hot water coming from water heater tank should be a least 18 inches of copper and then you can attach and wet backs
Hello Buck;
Yes, I will be filming the project in the house. It is at my buddy Jimmy's and he had no problem with this at all. We do many favors for each other and he is a great friend and super guy!
Hopefully this will clear things up a bit for you!
Thanks for commenting and have yourself a great day! Al
Good video thanks. Going to be upgrading from the 1/2" CPVC clusterfuck in my basement to a 3/4" supply 1/2" manifold system.
Hello Kris Thulson;
You are more then welcome and thanks for the kind words!
I am glad you enjoyed them and best luck with any projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
thank you for this one man!
William. You're right about Hot water coming from the heater it should be at least 18 inches of copper, Very good point, You cannot have PEX coming out straight from hot water tank.
Hey Fritz;
Pex is pretty popular now and I am trying to cover all aspects of it.
I love the brass and ball valves as well.
I tend to stay away from the dielectric unions.I stick to the brass right off the tank.
The tanks are paper thin now and don`t last any time at all.
You can buy stainless steel , but the price is over the top and most people look at me as if I have 3 eyes.Poor water quality around here doesn`t help.
Watts valve on the washer is fine. Put in a few.
Tks friend! Take care! Al
Hey Tom;
Thanks very much for the kind words.
I will be posting this shortly. Xmas makes things a little wild when it comes to work.
Family comes first!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Excellent tutorial! Thank you!
+Shayla Anthony
You are more than welcome!
I hope it helps with any future projects you may have in the future.
Thanks for the kind words and have a great week! Al
Hey William;
I wasn't sure about the code in the U.S. on the vacuum breakers for outside faucets.
No doubt it is different in other countries.
One thing about the code is you MUST follow it, but then you have to deal with the inspector who has jurisdiction. Sometimes they have a different view on the code. I have had a few interesting conversations with them.
Thanks for commenting and have a great one! Al
Wow that was a lot of great tips. I have the shut off valves in the bathroom and when I tried to turn them in to shut of the water they are froze solid , I have not touched them in 15 years. Want to change the taps. Any tip on freeing them up, if I try any harder to screw them in I might break off the ends. Thanks.
Hello Dana Fredrick;
You are more then welcome!
Good luck with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hey William;
I always carry more then I need, but it prevents running out and taking time from the job.It is pretty neat stuff to work with for sure. I never thought I would be installing it, but it is the way of the times.
Stay tuned!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello William;
You are correct with the statement of not being allowed to install it near any flue, but this is an electric hot water tank. No natural gas in this area, but hopefully in the future. Much cheaper then electricity.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hey Ray;
They are always coming up with something new.
Pex is the only way to go. I consider myself kind of an old style plumber and was a little hard to get into the pex. Now, I would be disappointed if I had to go back to copper.
Companies make them so cheesy to day that I could cry about it. Junk! and the price has near doubled in the last few years. They will probably be coming up with auto ship very soon!
You are welcome my friend!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hey Al !!!
Great Analysis on all the Pex Tools , Fittins , and Accessories !!!
You know I Love the Ball Valves !!!
I will be using the Brass Brass Unions , Brass Nipples , followed by my Ball Valve !!!
I love to Isolate Al !!!
Al are you using a Dielectric coming Directly Out of Water Heater tying into your Union ?
What do you Think of the Watts Valve on the Washer Lines ?
Al I can't wait for the Upcoming Series my Friend !!!
Great Video from my Favorite Master Plumber !!!
Hello Bonfield2002;
The water can play havoc on them at times. Would you know if they are compression valves or ball valves and do they have clear plastic handles on them?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me on it. Al
great videos, very educational.
+Shadow Chaser
Thanks for the kind words!
i hope they help with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Hello lovetowrenchit;
You are more then welcome! I hope you enjoy the series.
Good luck with any projects you may have in the future!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Yeah that make sense but wow only 18" I would think it need more length then that but this is good info thanks Al. Oh just to let you know im taking a plumbing code class now. Love this stuff!
Thanks for answering Al. For your questions we have submersible pump last time I checked pressure tank gauge it said 31 psi it does take long time before we notice increase in pressure I assume that is when pump kicks in. The kitchen sink pressure: the fixture is only one year old and when new the sprayer works but any lower pressure it goes to stream so on edge. Believe part problem is I found a piercing clamp in line under where original fridge would have been possibly for ice maker assuming that would partially block line and having hard water (softener recommended from friend who use to sell them years ago, told filters not needed, water not that bad) mineral deposits. We can not afford softener at this time but would like to plumb in preparation for it. Also what recommended height off of floor should pressure tank and hot water tank be. There is a soil gate drain just after pressure tank approximately 2 inch max off floor...cont
+Douglas Overbeck
You are more than welcome!
If the drain is at floor level or relatively close you can place both tanks on the floor. The water heater will
Try removing the aerator and see how the flow is. Many aerators today have a flow restrict er in them to conserve water.
The clamp should not effect the flow of the water to the faucet. If you turn off the water to the faucet and try removing the supply line that goes to the faucet and direct it into a bucket; turn the valve back on for a few seconds this will show you what kind of pressure and flow you have and the problem could be in the faucet.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hey Wiilliam;
Viega PEX manual states:
- 10.10 Water Heaters
- - PureFlow tubing should not be connected directly to gas-fired water heaters.The high temperatures of these appliances can damage the tubing.When connecting a PureFlow system to a gas-fired water heater,install a minimum of 18" of metallic piping between the water heater and tubing,keeping tubing more than 6" away from the vent pipe.Where local code allows,PureFlow tubing may be connected directly to electric water heaters.
Al
can pex tubing be used from curb to home warte hookup , what size tubing?..
Hey Man;
I would definitely go in and make a solid joint inside the wall.
Was the fitting grey in color by chance.....
Thanks for commenting and get back to me on it! Al
You have a great channel...Thanks I am about to change out my copper and galvanized water lines to pex...I may go with tne manifold not surd yet..Thanks for all the videos.
Hello Daveyboy,
You're welcome!
Hopefully the videos help with the project!
Run as much of the pipe and fittings as you can before you turn the water off to make your final tie ins. It can be a little stressful if you are planning on doing the entire home at once. One approach is to work on the farthest section and do that in that day and work your way back to your main supplies. A few Sharkbite couplings help to join to copper. Galvanized is another story. You have to remove that and replace the lines or run them beside them. and cut them out at a later date.
Is your hot water supply from a water heater or a coil in a boiler?
Hope this helps!
Feel free to drop me a line if you are looking for a little advise when you tackle the project!
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
@@TheOldkid888 yes I have a water heater..I am going to run copper manifolds to make it easier..Shut offs under every sink and then the line will go straight to the manifold..Alot less fittings and crimps this way plus all my rooms will get hot water faster..Thanks for the message .. Doing it this weekend I think I just received all my supplies.
It's a gas fired hot water heater I am running a 3/4 line to and from that then into a 3/4 manifold with 5 1/2 inch outlets on it.
After watching your vids I would assume from the mainline shut off I would go 3/4 to ceiling with a tee to the hot water tank then continue to a header for main bathroom/ ensuite/kitchen I would continue 3/4 until each location then reduce to 1/2 to keep 3/4 as long as possible. Is that correct? Change everything over to ball valves (I do prefer them also) replace the front outside tap (south facing) and back (north facing) taps with the new Canada approved taps. About pressure tank I will check if you have vid and see if I have more questions. Thank you, Doug
+Douglas Overbeck
That is correct!
I always install a 3/4 cold water main and take a 3/4 line off to feed the water heater. I run the 3/4 cold until I get to the last two fixtures and then I use a 3/4 by 1/2 by 1/2 tee at the end of the line.
I install a manifold directly off the hot water tank if it is an electric water heater only.
If it is an oil or gas water heater I install copper up to the floor joists and attach pex from there. Code requires you install the pex at least 18 inches from the top of the tank depending on where you live and no close than 6 inches from the flue. Some codes require a further distance so I run the copper to the joists which allows me to secure the hot water header there and run separate 1/2" hot water lines to fixture.
I always use ball valves. Big fan!!!
If the outside faucets are the same age as the waterlines; I would change them out as well.
My last video I made was....Testing and replacing your pump tank....Waterlogged tank...Plumbing Tips! This may help you if you are thinking about replacing your tank.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Great video Al, looking forward to seeing step 2.
Tom
Hey im really looking forward to this project. Are you going to be filming the install in the house? Very confused elctrician here trying to figure out plumbing around the house! haha
Not trying to correct you but I thought you couldn't have any type of plastic pipe coming from the hot water tank due to the heat from the flue and the expansion from the hot water pressure? Im guessing pex can handle the heat. Im running 39inch of copper from my tank then transferring to CPVC.
Much Thanks !
Hello Bruce;
You are more then welcome!
Hope you get along well with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Hello Bonfield2002;
You can turn them with a lot of force.Use channel locks on the plastic handle and another on the valve and they will turn I believe they have a packing nut directly behind the handle if they leak when you turn them,tighten the nut.If you are nervous about turning them any more I made a video about compression valves..How to repair or replace a leaky compression valve/shut-off under your sink..Very easy to replace just the stem.
Let me know how you get along! Good luck! Al
Great stuff. This is helping me imagine taking on the job in my home; I'd like to replace all my copper with pex. We have rather acidic well water, and I know it's a matter of time. Plus, we're getting some leeching, and we can taste it. A question: why, when you are discussing the basement bathroom connection, are you soldering to the existing copper? Is there a reason for not going full pex at this point, especially if the owner wants to eradicate copper? Thanks.
+hardpattern
You are more than welcome!
If the owner wants to replace all the copper that is not an issue. The copper was not very old in the basement of this house and they didn't want to get into changing the lines out and opening the walls. I would have changed them if they were the same age as the pipes upstairs. I did solder connectors to the pipes to join the pex in the basement.
Not sure if you had ever soldered before, but I did make a video on how to solder if you are interested.
How to solder copper pipe. Tips and tricks! The old plumber shows complete technique.
I am not sure if you would be doing it your case.
Changing all the copper to pex would be the way to go. Run as many lines and tees as you can before you decide to make all the tie-ins. It may take a day to do the tie-ins and you don't want to be out of water overnight.
Thanks for commenting and be sure to get back to me if you have any other questions.
Good luck with the project! Al
Thanks for all the great videos, I've ordered all the supplies and am ready to re-plumb a rental that a tenant let freeze up. I think all PVC is suspect once frozen solid, and all needs to be replaced. Does anyone ever fish pex tubing through walls like you would electrical wire? Seems like it should be do-able, but I haven't seen anything on it. Beats tearing out walls and ceilings. Rob
Hello Rob;
You are more then welcome!
It sounds like it all has to be replaced for sure. I have fished pex through wall and ceilings with very little effort. It can go quite a distance easily.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
All your videos are fantastic! It's helping me decide on how to re-plumb my house with PEX. I'm having some dilemma issue to either go with Viega or Uponor. I've notice on one of your videos that you mention you switched from Uponor/Wirsbo system to Viega. Is Viega a better system in your opinion? I live Toronto, and I'm having a hard time finding a place that carries Viega products, any suggestions? Danny
Hello Danny;
Thanks very much for the kind words!
I switched to Veiga as I like the crimp system and the fittings are made of bronze and are lead free. I was also using Rehau and I thought that system was exceptionally good, but the price of the fittings went through the roof and Viega was much more reasonable.
Uponor has been around for probably the longest of the systems out, but I have had a few issues with their brass fittings connections and even though they cover it in warranty I prefer installing a system and not having to go back for any kind of repair! Viega works very well!
Wolseley carries Viega if you can purchase it at the wholesalers. I see there are three stores in Toronto. You can give them a call to find out for sure!
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Get back to me if you have any more questions!
TheOldkid888 Hey TheOldkid888, hope all is well. Thanks for your input on the pex system to use. I decided on using Viega and got my parts from Wolseley which worked out great. I'm about to start the project, but I just have a question about using the crimping tool. I noticed on your videos you crimp once on the fitting. Is that all is necessary? I noticed on my fittings after being crimped, there is a small section where the front and back of the crimp jaw leaves a small uncrimped section, is this normal?
Thanks
Danny
Hello Danny;
The tool goes on the center section as you know and does not crimp the edges, but the center of the stainless sleeve. If you look at a valve that has no sleeve on it; you will see that is all that is required to make a water tight joint.
The two ends look like they are slightly pushed out after the crimp. Perfectly normal. That is how the tool works!
love Viega!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Viega PEX manual states:
- 10.10 Water Heaters
- - PureFlow tubing should not be connected directly to gas-fired water heaters.The high temperatures of these appliances can damage the tubing.When connecting a PureFlow system to a gas-fired water heater,install a minimum of 18" of metallic piping between the water heater and tubing,keeping tubing more than 6" away from the vent pipe.Where local code allows,PureFlow tubing may be connected directly to electric water heaters.
Al
Thanks for the great information - what is wrong with ball valves on the laundry?
Hello David,
You're welcome!
The handles on the mini ball valves are exceptionally close to where the hoses are to be attached. They are quite difficult to get on and remove. Not saying that they can't be placed on, but it makes for a much easier install on regular sediment faucets (also known as drain valves).
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hi Al, I need to buy soon and understand your logic - seems there is nothing wrong with the internals that would prohibit the ball valve in the laundry location. The premade laundry units have ball valves so if the assembly is cheaper than the sediment faucets I may go with that.Thanks again, Dave
GREAT VIDS I do have questions we are on a well, and open basement (Yippee can replace everything easy) just a home owner, closest plumber is 40 minutes away at 100km highway so min of 1 1/2 hour traveling time per day. Plumbing doesn't scare me as much now seeing your vids don't have to solder GREAT, limited budget. Ok main line from well enters end wall of house (2 1/4" OD black plastic line) follows end wall (west wall) then follows north wall for half length of wall then turns 90 it "T" off to pressure tank (tank stands 4' 2" tall silver with DURO on side of tank) this tank is closest to wall beside this is the hot water tank so pressure tank is between hot water tank and the north wall. Down stairs beside pressure tank and hot water tank is washer and dryer, upstairs east end of house is kitchen with dishwasher, almost directly above pressure tank is main bathroom (toilet,sink,bath) all along that north wall, almost directly across from tanks on south wall is ensuite (toilet/si
+Douglas Overbeck
Everything seems to be relatively close together so that makes the project much easier. I believe the tank you have is galvanized . Do you have a submersible pump in the well?
If the water heater is electric...like I mentioned in the previous comment; you can come directly off the tank with pex.
It is a good idea to check the tank to see if it waterlogged.
If so you either have to drain it and install air pressure in it or install a new bladder tank. I usually place two pounds pressure below the cut in setting on the switch. A submersible pump generally has a 30 pound cut in pressure...so the air pressure should be installed in the tank after it has been drained to 28 pounds. Be sure to check the cut in pressure on the switch cover of the pump. Usually grey or black in color with a nut on top.
The switches on pumps come 20/40, 30/50 or 40/60.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck! Al
Great video, I am working on my moms place and was going to use copper because of the components are easy to find. She wants .ex. If I go with Pex what is the solution for galvanized pipe? I was going to go as far as I could go without tearing out the walls. Also I have seen in new construction how the Shower valve is connected not sure if I liked that. One job the supply valve just spun in place. I don't think that was the right way. Do you know if Home Depot has a pex to galvanized fitting?
Thanks
+Matt Lord
As far as going from pex to galvanized; you would need to join them together by using threaded connections. They don't a connection that slides over galvanized just yet.
I made a video of how I solder a shower valve if you are interested......Shower install...Part 3.How to solder a single lever bath faucet.Plumbing tips!
Pex is very easy to install as compared to copper. I would use the crimp ring system as the fittings and tool can be purchased at the big box stores such as Home Depot.
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Thanks, I went to a box store and have decided to use the pex. Also they have a shark bite system that I may use in hard to reach places. Thanks,
Matt
Matt Lord
You are more than welcome Matt!
Be sure that the pipe goes into the fitting the proper distance when using the Sharkbite and they will be fine. Sometimes you push the pipe in and it feels like it bottomed out, but has only gone in half way. I generally mark the pipe before I attach the fitting. Half inch pipe goes in almost an inch (7/8ths) to be exact. Three quarter goes in 1 and 1/8th of an inch.
When installing pex try not to install it near any florescent lights. It will break it down over time. If you have to; you can simply put a little insulation on it and that will take care of the problem. Sunlight will do the exact same thing. (UV rays break it down)
Take your time and figure out where you are going to run it. Run all the main lines first installing tees where they are needed. This could be day one or two.
You do not want to cut the copper out and then start running the lines as you may not be able to get it all done in one day and then you will be without water to the home.
Once you have all the main lines run and tees installed then you can make your final connections. They take time. Could be day two or three or when you get a chance to get back to it.
Big thing is to have water in the house at the end of the day.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project!
Let me know how you get along! Al
Could 1/2 inch wide steel hose clamps be used? The ones that have a screw to tighten? The screw is covered so it won't touch the pex. Thanks.
Hello Eric;
I wouldn't want to try using a clamp on pex as it is a little denser then braided hose and hydraulic hose.
The tool crimps the entire ring into pipe and fitting and you wouldn't get that with a clamp. Clamps are generally used on barbed fittings. Although these have an end that looks barbed; they are not as sharp and therefore
would not make a water tight joint.
I hope this answers your question.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Great vid, one quick question if you don't mind: which is more reliable crimp or press?
Hello Co X;
I personally like the Rehau system. The sleeve is pulled over the pipe and the fitting.
I would say that the chances of it ever coming apart are slim to none. Biggest reason I don't use them any more is the price has shot through the roof as far a s the fittings go.
1 1/2" tee with the sleeves is around 9 dollars which is outrageous.
The Veiga system that I used in this video series is about 1/3 the price and the nice part about this system is you are not chasing sleeves or rings around the floor as the sleeves are attached to the fittings.
The Wirsbo system has been around probably the longest and is the most popular as most of the fittings are plastic and the price is lower. They use plastic rings that you expand on the end of the pipe and place it on the fitting. The rings and pipe have a memory they say that tries to go back to its original size and makes the seal. You can actually turn the fitting around at a later date and point it in a different direction and not worry about leaks.
These three companies are German manufacturing and are excellent in my books.
You also have a crimp ring system that most homeowners are using as the price of the tool for the application is not too costly and the fittings are reasonable and can be purchased at most hardware stores.
There is also a cinch ring system that uses stainless steel clamps. It too is reasonable in price, but I am not a fan of it. Just my personal opinion.
The internal diameters of these fittings are small and I am not a fan of that.
There was a system that came out a number of years ago called Kitec. They had pipe failure problems. The shield inside the pipe actually collapsed; so it never made the cut although it was used for several years.
Sorry for the rant! I have made a video on the different types of pex and have done a few tests as well. Big thing about pex is to keep it away from direct sunlight and fluorescent lights. They both will eat at it and break it down. I have a video on that as well!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 wow, thanks a million, this is very informative and I think I know what I need now :)
Hello Co X;
You are more then welcome!
Best of luck with the project! Al
I'm looking at buying a fixer upper that had the plumbing freeze. Rather than try to fix a bunch of cracked pipes I want to just put this in. I have used the pipe at home depot with Shark Bites (or what ever they call them at HD) to change the water line to a toilet. It was the easiest plumbing I have ever done! I just wonder how hard it would be to run new lines in a home with a basement and just one story, with 3 bathrooms and a kitchen and laundry room. ??
Anna C
One thing that many people do not realize when it comes to copper lines that have frozen and split is that they expand when they become frozen and this can make it very difficult to attach new fittings to the existing ones once that piece has been cut off. If there is a lot of piping that is split; I would install all new pex. Getting in behind the shower and bath faucets is the most challenging part. You may have to cut access doors in if they are not there already... Some of the the faucets may possibly have to be replaced, but I would install valves on all the faucets including the shower and bath to be on the safe side and if they are split you can at least isolate them and have water in the rest of the home.
It is just time that is required. Coming up with a plan on how you are planning to run them is the biggest thing. Installing the pex is not difficult. If you are going to install all new lines I would suggest purchasing a crimp tool from Home Depot and using their system.
Is the ceiling finished in the basement or is a t-bar ceiling?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance! Al
TheOldkid888 I haven't seen the house yet but it looks like a drop ceiling in the photos. And since there is only one floor I don't feel it would be that difficult. I didn't have to "Crimp" anything using the shark bites. I popped one on the copper pope shoved in the PEX and ran it up to the 1st floor bath because the idiot builder put the supply line in my cold air return and it molded everything under the flooring. I popped it up through the floor next to the toilet anchored it down in the basement and popped on a shark bite valve. and attached the line to the new toilet. haven't had a problem at all. My plan was to connect the line and run it with no breaks to where ever it is going , tub sink etc.. I planned on pulling all the copper pipe. I figured the less of that connecting one hose to another the better.
Hello Anna C;
Good call...
The only reason I mentioned the crimp tool and that system was the price of the fittings and tool would be cheaper then using sharkbite fittings.
One thing to keep in mind if you do decide to use all sharkbite fittings make sure you purchase a tool for measuring the depth the pipe should go into the fitting. This is the most important thing to keep in mind when installing with Sharkbite. You simply slide it on the pipe and mark it with a marker. This will assure you that the pipe has gone into the fitting the correct depth.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the installation! Al
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience it is greatly appreciated.
I have a question, there is a RUclips video that shows a similar product to the uponor system, its called Flair-it pro. I wanted to get your opinion on it, it is a new system that claims to meet all plastic installation codes and it is unbelievably cheap. There is not enough information on it but I wanted to see what you think of it. Would you feel safe install it in a customer house or your own. if so or if not why? keep up the great videos Thanks .
Hello 1701gx;
First that I have heard of it was from you. I googled it and did some reading about it. I am not exactly sure what to think of it just yet.
The other systems that I have used have been around for a few decades now and all have been well tested.
I watched a few videos on the system. I am a little skeptical about the integrity of it as I personally have not used it or have had it in my hands.
With all the other systems that I have used I did a cross cut after the joint was made to see how well they made a compressed joint ( water tight ). They all worked very well.
Probably until I try this or have a fitting pipe connection in my hand and give it a good going over would I use it to install any waterlines. That is not saying that it is not a good system, but I prefer to test products before I use them on a permanent basis.
I had a hard time switching from copper to pex, but once I felt that the systems were good; then I began to use them. Wirsbo, Kitec, Veiga all got a thumbs up by me. Not cheap, but very dependable and that is what I was after.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with any future projects!
I hope this helps! Al
Thanks i appreciate you getting back to me so soon. I am trying to switch over a to a pex system and was hoping you had seen that system installed because for the prices and simplicity of it, it would have made it more easier for me to switch.
A lot of systems out there are 400+ for crimpers and expanders i know its to keep it out of the weekend warriors hand but, in my opinion they are not precision tools. they are so long that if you put a blade on some of them they could be 30 dollar garden shears. Uponor seems to be a high quality system but they had problems with their brass fittings, they had to much zinc in them that caused Dezincification.
I think you showed that on one of your videos on a underground water system Tee you replaced. stuff like that can ruin your house or your career if you create an indoor pool in someone's basement. I have repiped whole houses with copper but I am not a plumber and not as Knowledgeable with all these systems out there so These are the things that keep me guessing, not that that it can't happen with copper but a lot of companies want to use you as a test subject.
Anyway I thank you for you time and help, love your videos keep them up. I wish RUclips Had more helpful and Knowledgeable people like you. Again thanks Gino
Hello Gino;
I appreciate your comments very much!
Uponor did have trouble with their brass fittings, but the company actually went good for a number of the jobs where people had problems. Saw it first hand.
I have to recant a system that I mentioned in my previous message. I said Kitec was one of the systems that I used and proved, but it should have been Rehau.
Kitec was the first systems that I used about 25 years ago and it was pulled from manufacturing after a few years as the lining in the pipe began to separate and restrict the water flow over time.
Rehau was the best system in my books, but the cost for fittings went through the roof the past few years. 9 dollars for a 1/2" tee. Rediculous!
Veiga is about 1/3 the cost and the fittings are bronze. That is my go to now!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Fantastic series, thank you!!!! We need to redo the lines in our house, and now know what to do! We are interested in putting in a manifold system, now know how to do it. Love all the great information, even it the idiots on here think you're rambling. That "rambling" is the little shit you run into that makes you go.. "uhhh, what to do I do now." You take care of all that with your musing. Thank you! One question, where do you buy this stuff? Thanks again, love the Canadian accent eh. ;P
Hello SkySentientBeing;
Thanks very much for the nice comments! Greatly appreciated!
I buy most of my supplies from the wholesalers, but big box stores such as Home Depot has a crimp ring system that is very popular. The tool is relatively inexpensive compared to the system that I use, but works very well!
They have two different systems, but I recommend the crimp ring that uses the COPPER rings. I have seen several places where it has been installed.
Some people call it rambling, but I am just trying to cover all the details. I guess everyone is entitled to their opinions
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
I want to take on my 3000 sq foot two story house . The chinese pipes are rusting way prematurely. Any suggestions how to remove vertical pipes and insert pex in their places ?
Hello Sajid,
It is a bit of a task, but it can be done without opening any walls.
I have removed lots of copper and installed new pipe without cutting open walls.
You will first have to cut the pipe off in the floor of the bathroom where the pipe goes down the wall below.
Since it is galvanized, I would drill a hole in the galvanized pipe and in the pex that you are going to feed. Attach a wire securely to both through the hole that you have put in the galvanized and pex.
You will need to go done the basement and cut the pipe off where it heads upstairs. Holding onto it so that it doesn't fall.
Have someone upstairs feeding the pex pipe down the wall as you lower the galvanized pipe. You will probably have to cut the galvanized pipe off again in the basement as it is being lowered.
The pex should come down through the wall easily.
Any other questions feel free to ask.
Best of luck with the project!
Thanks for commenting and have a good weekend! Al
jerry here,,i`m thinking 3/4 pex ,insulated of course ,,comeing from curb to home, connecting to a manifold system and 1/2 pex for the rest of tueing connections ,, will this work ?
Hello Jerry;
Service pipe is made for this installation from the street to the house. I know a few people that have used pex underground, but I personally wouldn't use it.
3/4" is what is usually run for residential homes.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Toilet/sink) ok there is the layout of plumbing. Now it gets interesting from the "T" at the pressure tank there is a shut off (regular valve) then the plumbing reduces to 1/2 copper it runs up to ceiling and just before going through floor into bathroom vanity it increases to 3/4" T off 1/2 to cold tap the 3/4 continues back through floor where it T off 1/2 making run to kitchen cold 20'+ east and 3/4 west to bath where that T to bath and to hot water tank 1/2" then rest of hot water plumbing is all 1/2". Problems we have is kitchen sink plumbing is low pressure lucky that sprayer even works. I am not plumber willing to do my own work just need someone to say you need this this and this and run your 3/4 here and T off here here and here. A friend came over and looked at the plumbing suggested PEX and said I couldn't do any worst then the last guy. I know nothing of well systems never had a problem this is our second house on well other house had pressure tank I could hold in my lap
+Douglas Overbeck
In my last comment I sent to you I basically described how I would run lines in the house.
You want to run most of the lines first before you decide to make the final tie in as it will take a bit of time to run the lines and you don't want to be out of water for a few days if the project is large.
As far as having no pressure at the faucets you could check the aerator on the end of the spout. It is more than likely plugged with mineral build up. Removing it and cleaning the minerals out should fix your problem with the volume.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
Great video series very in depth and full of tips thanks.
Did you know that SHARKBITE sells a ball valve with a braided flexible 3/4 pipe for hooking up to the water heater ? would you use that instead of all the unions you used ?
Home depot .ca has it on their website product is # : U3088FLEX18BV
Let me know what you think, thanks.
And have a Happy New year Al.
I thought it was more then 18 but hey the less the better :) thanks
I would like to know if you can patch a water line using pex pipe and if so how?
Lillie Nolden You can not patch copper pipe with pex. You would have to remove the section of pipe and install pex. If you are doing just a small repair; I would suggest using a few sharkbite fittings and a piece of pex pipe. This is the most user friendly way to make the repair!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
I do believe it is already pex pipe. The line looks like a little green water hose.
Also, the break is in the line closest to the house, will what you suggested still work?
Hello Lillie;
Is the break outside and underground?
Yes it is
Where can I buy the Rehau pex A pipe and fittings?
Hello Michael,
They can be found at some plumbing wholesale suppliers. Not all carry Rehau. Some plumbing suppliers sell to the general public while others don't. It won't hurt to give them a call. If you check on line there are a number of sites that sell the pipe and fittings.
It is not sold in the big box stores that I am aware of.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
@@TheOldkid888 Why the switch to Viega? I know Rehau fittings are costly, however Viega's tools are costly as well.
Hello Michael,
I switched over to Viega a few years back because of the crazy cost of Rehau fittings. One 1/2" Rehau tee and three sleeves alone was costing me $10 dollars. If you add that into doing waterlines in someone's home; the price goes crazy. When that took place I swung over to Viega and have had no regrets. There fittings were bronze and much cheaper.
Since then both Rehau and Viega have began producing plastic fittings and the price has considerably decreased as compared to the bronze and brass.
Once I go onto the Viega; I found it very easy to use. The sleeves were already and about 90 percent of the fittings and it was just a matter of crimping and it was done. I do like the new Rehau system as they have a battery operated unit that makes the connections quite simple.
I may get back on Rehau some day, but Viega is treating me well right now.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I'm conflicted on using copper or PEX for replacing old galvanized pipes. I hear copper develops pits and erodes; although cheaper, PEX has toxins, leaks, and rats loves it. What gives?
Hello david,
Totally up to the individual as to what one wants to use. If it is going into a house with no foundation and is low to the ground...copper may be the way to go if pests are a problem.
If you have a foundation; I wouldn't hesitate to use pex.
I run pex where ever possible now.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
did someone take your stapler?
+Alement67
Went with the J clamps on this project. Don't think homeowners are going to purchase a stapler.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
I was thinking about using this stuff in my bathroom, but there is far too much bullshit to buy. I think its back to the torch and solder. Keep it simple.
Hello John;
If you are planning on not to big a project; I stick to the soldering.
You will need a tool and that will set you back a few dollars in itself! If you are tackling a bigger project such as waterlines in your home then it will be cheaper to by the tool and pex pipe and fittings rather then running copper.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with your project! Al
Please crank the volume to 11 next time.
Hello Mathew!
Will DO!!!
Have a great weekend! Al
+TheOldkid888 Thanks
Matthew S the first
We bought the house one year ago. Great house great location BC New Hazelton...but the septic field failed last fall new field going in this spring $16,000 and because new field we come under new regulations, in order to have enough room to fit field we HAD to purchase property behind us at a cost of $16,800 told wife enjoy your time on the throne it is worth $32,000 1/3 the cost of the home. Old system had all drain lines under basement concrete floor tank was 4+' down new tank will only be 2' down new drains will go out above floor approximately 2' above floor. Main drain beside pressure tank. Ensuite at front of house drain at back we are going to reroute ensuite drain and she has new slipper tub so old surround goes, new slipper in, in main bath I have a lot of work. Septic installer said he would look after main drain connection. Back on pex would that manublock be better then scratch made manifold?
+Douglas Overbeck
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the septic. You will have to enjoy each flush at that price.
The manublock does reduce the need of making a header. You can definitely consider it. Will save you time for sure.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thanks for posting. You should try to keep stuff on camera a bit better. :)
Hello Andrew;
You are more then welcome!
I will keep that in mind with future vids!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
TheOldkid888
also the audio, great vid!
Hello Cam;
Thanks for the kind words and the advice!
Can never get enough comments on improvement!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
i need to re do my house thanks for the reply
Best of luck with the project!
Al
TURN UP THE VOLUME or put it in text.
Hello Bob,
Will do!!!!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Ormus has anybody reported a kickback or a bad drunk so funny
move along, troll
Hello Anne Marie X,
Thanks!
Always someone out there who has nothing better to do...
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
It's a bit quiet...
Meg Lee Chin
I am trying to speak up a little louder on my videos!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
turn up the sound next time
Hello Steve,
My apologizes.
I will definitely do that next video!
I appreciate the input!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Sorry electric tank
+Douglas Overbeck
So you can connect the pex directly off the top of the tank since it is an electric tank.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
+TheOldkid888 Hi Al, ok looking at buying the parts to get this started. As you being a plumber you can save me time looking in the Aucland Grangier catalog online. What do I need to start, after waste gate from pressure tank there is a 1 1/4" threaded pipe going to a reducing coupling into which a 1/2 threaded copper fitting is in place. After spending 1/2 hour flipping pages online figured if I knew what it is called could save me a ton of time. So to go from the 1 1/4" pipe to 3/4" PEX I would need...? From that point should be easier because I would be in PEX fittings only. Also the clothes washer I have seen the nice white boxes that you install in wall for the fittings, my water lines come from ceiling (basement) not from floor so can these be mounted upside down? I could then move pipes from outside of wall to inside wall in preparation for dry walling, also should I install the antiknock? or surge preventers? To prevent knocking in pipes.
Douglas Overbeck
If that is a gate valve in line now; I would either remove it and install a 3/4 ball valve or leave it in place and put the valve above it that won't hurt anything if you do.
So to go from the 11/4 nipple to 3/4....first you need a 11/4" by 3/4" coupling. (If you are taking that nipple out of the valve you will need a 11/4 by 3/4 bushing).Then you need a close 3/4" nipple to thread into that. After that comes the 3/4" ball valve. To go to 3/4 pex from the valve you will need a 3/4 male by 3/4 pex adapter.
No, the box cannot be mounted upside down, but you can go down below the box with the pex and come into it from the bottom. The drain comes into the bottom of the drain
I don't install water hammer arresters on domestic systems.
Run all the pex that you can except the tie ins as the job may take you more than a day and you don't want to be out of water over night.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Too expensive
Hello Dan,
The tool is pricy, but the fittings are relatively cheap in relationship to Rehau.They are a little more expensive then what you would purchase in a big box store, but not by much.
I do like the crimp rings being attached to the fittings as well.
Very easy to use.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
TheOldkid888 I don't know what part of the world you live in but I just replumbed my whole house and all the Pex and fittings cost me 470.00
Hello Dan,
Not trying to be smart here, but do you think that is expensive?
Just curious as to what system you used.
You did it yourself; so that was a huge savings. Congrats on that!
A plumbers rates for the day would have eaten that up before the day was out. Being able to install everything yourself saved you a big chunk of change.
Copper pipe and fittings are exceptionally high and then the installation on top.
I think it is hard to beat the pex when it comes to price and install.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Not sure what you mean by system,I used the straight pieces all 3/4 in
Hello Dan,
I was wondering what brand of pex and fittings you used; if it was Viega or not? Some are much more expensive then others.
Have a good one! Al
My God could they have set the volume any lower? Mute would have been the next step for Christ's sake!
Hello Tim,
I really have no problem hearing this if I bump up the volume on my laptop. Not a problem at all, but I will have the volume up on the next videos...
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
TheOldkid888 Liar.
+TheOldkid888 Maybe on your laptop but not on my cell phone.
Thanks for the vid though!
Nicholas Roeder
Gotcha. Probably not. I have an issue at times hearing with mine just having a conversation.
I will keep that in mind on my next videos.
Not an issue on my laptop.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Speak up man we can barely hear you!
Hello R-PDesign;
I will try to put out a little more volume on my future videos!
Have a great day! Al
Turn up your speakers.
This crap piping should have never been invented... It is cheaper for a reason, so you can save money to later pay for your water damage. Do it right, do it in copper!
Hello Andrew;
Copper has been around for a long time; no doubt about that. It has a very good track record.
Pex has been in North America since the 80's.
It has been in Europe since the 50's.
I had a hard time converting from copper to pex myself.
I researched it and did several tests on it. I have come across a few situations where I do not use it.
As far as water damage goes; I believe it depends on the installation and the manufacturer.
More then 20 years using it with no issues.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Yes we need to keep the copper thieves in business sorry not for me make mine PEX! :P
jim zorger
Pex definitely prevents any copper thieves from getting anywhere.
It took me a while to come to a point where pex was my go to products, but after doing several tests and beginning to install it; copper now is only used wherever it is really needed. Pex is so much faster and easier to install then copper and will last a very long time.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 what do you mean by "where really needed?" Do you mean where a customer really wants something done right? Or when a person wants good water pressure? Or when a person doesn't want leaks? Is that the only time copper is needed?
Andrew Breining Maybe you should do some research before posting your "serious doubts" about PEX (loved your sarcasm, BTW). There comes a time when you just might have to accept the new technology, i.e. evolve. I'm guessing you still have knob and tube wiring in your house, though, because "I hear that newfangled Romex wiring has all kinda problems." LOL
The new PEX has come a long way and the advantages over copper are finally being realized. Hey, don't believe me, go look it up. Truly the only advantage copper still has is hot burst temperature, which usually isn't an issue.