Epoxy Potting Compound Pouring Large Volumes, High Thermal Conductivity potting MAX EPC A/B
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
MAX EPC A/B is a room temperature cured epoxy-based electronic potting compound designed for large mass encapsulation of printed circuit boards.
It produces low exothermic heat suitable for large mass or thick cross-sections potting and casting applications. Upon cure, MAX EPC creates a permanent barrier against ambient air, corrosive environments, moisture, and direct physical contact with the circuitry.
MAX EPC demonstrates excellent dimensional stability with minimal thermal expansion and contraction.
MAX EPC can be poured up to 4-inch thick sections and will not generate high exothermic heat during cure.
It cures very hard after 36 hours at 25°C (77°F) or can be heat cured for faster cure times.
MAX EPC A/B offers high thermal conductivity that dissipates heat away from the circuitry, preventing 'hot spots that can cause component failure or reduced life span of the encapsulated electronic circuit.
MAX EPC A/B bonds to metals, FRP, ABS, PVC, Plastisol, and other substrates commonly used in wire jackets, circuit boards, and electrical enclosures.
MAX EPC A/B yields low shrinkage and excellent dimensional stability that prevents 'component pull-outs caused by expansion and contraction coefficients when exposed to varying temperatures. Its service temperature ranges from -40°C to 100°C (-40°F to 212°F).
MAX EPC A/B is mixed 4:1 by weight; it provides a 90-minute working time for volumes of 4 cubic inches and up to 45 minutes for larger mass -6 cubic inches. Its mixed viscosity is 2100 cPs at 25°C, similar to the consistency of corn syrup or honey, and easily poured in place.
It is self-leveling and designed to release air bubbles and cure with minimal voids and porosity.
Upon cure, MAX EPC A/B permanently encapsulates the circuitry in an electrically non-conductive resin matrix that prevents direct contact with the electronics. It is entirely waterproof and is suitable for continuous water immersion or ground buried potting applications.
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40 Fluid Ounce Kit
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80 Fluid Ounce Kit
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thank u
How did you measure the max exotherm heat of 150F? What instrument and procedure? Infrared or dipped the prob in?
We use both. For our QC test, we use an analytical temperature data logger with 3 to 4 probes to measure the ambient temperature, the center of the mass where the highest exotherm is generated, and the outside of the 4-fluid-ounce container. The data logger measures temperature versus time.
In this video, a large transformer is in the center of the potting mass, so an infrared temperature gun is used to obtain the overall temperature of the entire potting.
Here is a link to a video in which multiple temperature points were used to log the ambient temperature and two specimens to determine the temperature variation.
ruclips.net/video/knLmJ4H7y2w/видео.htmlsi=BbPGZIXGTL6JYbH9&t=25
Do you have any outgassing data on this?
This resin system complies with NASA Low Outgassing Materials.
Properly mix and cured MAX BOND THIXOTROPIC yields
If you happen to see this, I know what I’m using will cure at room temperature. But will anything result in a negative affect if it is heated too much? I’m working on a navy ship and somebody mixed it wrong and I’m dealing with taking it back apart. The bosses are convinced that it didn’t cure because of the temperature being too low. I know that’s not what happened, but after I clean everything off the last bad pour, my boss and his boss want heat to be blown onto it. And the heater they want to use will get it very hot. Upwards of 150°F. I almost think that could be a problem when it comes to the bubbles being released From the potting compound. Any tips would be appreciated, if you even see this. And by the way I’m dealing with Stycast 2741. It is not fun to work with, and it is not healthy at all. To the point where I want to do it when nobody else is working in the area within 30 to 50 feet. And I want to wear a half face respirator along with a Tyvek suit. My boss also told me to throw all the waste into a dumpster. I definitely did not listen to that part, just a glimpse into what I’m dealing with as far as upper management.
Hello Jeff, several factors will produce a bad cure with a potting compound that typically cures at room temperature. The most common is due to 'resin crystallization', where PART A or resin component has solidified into crystals due to cold temperature exposure. Since the PART A resin component is in a solid crystal state, the curing agent will not blend properly to form a homogenous mixture with the resin component. Exposing the potting to heat will not cure the mixture. You will, however, melt the resin crystals back to a liquid and create more mess.
Here is a video link regarding resin crystallization this issue is common during seasonal changes where the resin or PART A gets exposed to temperatures below 57°F. Similar to how honey will freeze solid when exposed to cold temperatures, the same happens to epoxy resin. To revert crystallization, the resin component must be warmed to 150°F to melt the crystallization and bring the resin back to its liquid form. The resin and curing agent must be liquid for the two components to mix properly.
Here is a video demo;
ruclips.net/video/YGwapG-lROY/видео.html
The other common error is improper mix ratio and how well the resin and curing agent were blended If the resin and curing agent were mixed in the wrong mix ratio, It would produce a gummy cure.
Lastly is the mixing technique, which produces wet or uncured spots. Here is a video demonstration for your review showing the effects of poor mixing;
ruclips.net/video/x31gkzdZkiI/видео.html
As far as disposal, as long as the resin has converted to a solid, it is OK to dispose of as normal solid waste. If it is wet or tacky, the waste needs to be treated as chemical waste, and the disposal method should be in the product safety data sheet.
In both cases, adding heat will not promote further curing. I hope this helps.
Anyone has a technical data sheet for this product?
Can I use it in a transmission conductor plate inside a transmission dipped in transmission fluid?
Does anyone know the max and min continuous operating temperature range?
Here is a link to the product page where more descriptions are available;
www.ebay.com/itm/223495919658
This resin system is none electrically conductive, so if it is your intention, it should work well. This is a thick and dense resin designed for large casting or potting applications. If you think you need a thinner resin system, check out this version, MAX MCR
www.ebay.com/itm/223885745256
Room temperature cure resin system can operate at 200°F continuously with brief exposures to 250°F.
If you require higher heat resistance, a heat cure resin system is needed, which can be used up to 400°F
Here is the link to the MAX HTE, High Temperature Epoxy; please note that this requires heat cure. Please review the description page for more details;
www.ebay.com/itm/222624236832
Thanks
@@TheEpoxyExperts hi, which one is good for high voltage like 800V power transformer potting？thanks
@@dinochan1 This resin system, MAX EPC works well for transformer coil winding encapsulation applications. MAX EPC is filled with non-conductive fillers to yield improved dielectric value The calcium carbonate filler also increases volume resistivity (electrical insulative) and thermal conductivity for thermal management and heat dissipation.
@@TheEpoxyExperts thank you so much.
I know they recommend that whenever you use it, it’s recommended to rough up any surfaces that it will be applied to with Emery cloth or at least a fine sandpaper 120 grit or above.
That’s at least what I am working with. StyCast 2741 potting compound. It is also recommended that all surfaces are clean.