I have used the same technique with end grain sealer instead of linseed oil and it works well with what one might call double hardening agents - thanks for the original idea George
I do this on my violin canes. These are mahogany and this gives a hard, durable finish that is so thin that it doesn't interfere with the vibration needed for mellow sound transmission, while standing up to the constant handling of the instrument during playing as well as the intermittent knocks that a walking stick constantly endures.
@@evoandy No. Developed a fibroma in my left foot a few years ago & was required to use a cane. I was also a sort-of fiddle/ violin player, so I made a walking stick that is also a violin. No toy, it's standard 4/4 scale just as in an orchestra or a bluegrass band. Doesn't LOOK like a fiddle until you take off the handle, remove the bow & the caul & the tip, then you screw the handle back on (it is tau shaped), which becomes the shoulder & chin rest. Allows me to irritate people & cause cats to breed frantically wherever I go. It sounds like a violin because it is a violin. It's quieter than a standard fiddle because the soundbox is so small, but if you'd ever heard me play, you'd know that's a real blessing! My comment was an endorsement of the boiled linseed, or tungoil, and super-glue finish. If you've not tried that, grab a piece of scrap & give it a whirl. Expect you'll like it.
Thanks all good guys in youtube, other videos and craft USA videos helped me turning fine products, although I never had experience turning wood, acrylic or Tru-stone before (did hand works before). I use this method and it works well for me. I got same glow finish as long process with smelly CA and Spray method and Micro mesh fishing method. I use both method depends on how it ends up at the end of finishing. This method is quick and not much CA and almost no smell.
Son fantásticos los acabados que logran ustedes con esa gama de productos que les ofrece el mercado, cuanto desearía que en mi país los pudiéramos conseguir. Un abrazo desde Colombia.
Linseed oil is very flammable, the craziest story I heard of was a sponge being used with linseed oil all day, and left over night in a bucket of water. The oil rose to the surface, saturated the sponge, and had enough surface area to build up heat and ignite the sponge, lighting equipment it was next to inside a 65 degree data center
on the bottle stopper mandrel or you can make your own mandrel, if you have metal turning lathe. I turn shaving Brush handle on bottle stopper mandrel too.
you can do this all in one step. I do this with my pens, and if you bump up the speed, put a little pressure while applying, it will be smooth and dry, ready for the next coat. Just apply BLO to the towel as suggested, then apply the ca glue on top of that, and spread it. make sure the towel is thick enough so when you apply pressure it doesnt burn your fingers or stick to your fingers. 7-10 coats makes a beautiful finish.
+John Spevak The bottle stopper is being turned on this chuck www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html If you use this chuck, you need to make sure the bottle stopper you’re buying has the same threads as the chuck. (3/8” -16)
thanks for this, i've used all manner of different oils, and i've used ca glue, but never thought to combine the two... right now i'm going through my shellac phase, and i really like the durability and shine i get from that... thanks again...
Hello. No, I would not consider this finish to be waterproof. It would have a moderate level of moisture resistance, but I would not recommend soaking a piece in water when this finish is used. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi, I love this technique, just now I personally use linseed oil alone but it isn't very durable. I'm 15 and live in Scotland so I can't buy these glues over here. Therfore I was wondering if a thin superglue would do the same job?
+Callum Eccles Hello and thanks for your question. Congratulations for pursuing this wonderful hobby at the young age of 15! To answer your question; Yes. Superglue is a brand of cyanoacrylate. The product shown in this video is another brand of cyanoacrylate which has been specially formulated for wood. You should have similar results using other brands of cyanoacrylate, so I'd suggest giving this a try with thin SuperGlue.
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America thank you very much for replying. I really enjoy woodturning I have done it for a few years now. I'll make a pen tomorrow and try this method with superglue.
Also the faster you can get the lathe the better. I usually turn pens and bottle stoppers at 2000-2500 then apply the ca/blo to the item. If you use small amounts of blo and ca you won't have a problem with it flinging off the piece your applying it to.
I think it would look better if you used multiple coats of the glue (5-10) and then used a polishing compound or something similar to finish it off. would really make it pop.
Buy the micro mesh sanding pads for wet sanding. You can get them on ebay. I get the smaller ones for about $15 at Woodcraft. www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-mesh-3-x-4-soft-touch-sanding-pads
Hello. Additional coats will adhere to the previous coat, building up additional protection and provide a great depth visually. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
I have plans to turn a handle for an ice cream scoop. Can a thick layer of CA Glue on wood as my finish hold up to hand washing in the sink with soap and water? I can't seem to find an Acrylic blank large enough for what I want to do(Either 2x2x6 or 1.5x1.5x6).
Great question! We have a lot of technical answers on our website. www.fixmyhog.com/harley-tips-a-z-index and ‘Ask an Expert’ section for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership. Thanks!
Okay, will try. Looks simplest way of using CA. Other turners use thin, medium, and thick all at different points in the process, cannot tell which is best without extensive experimenting. Hopefully Boiled Linseed Oil + CA finish does not rub off!!
Hi, two questions, what grit do you use between coats? also, what kind of wood is that? I really like the character. There's nothing better than when you apply a coat of BLO to a type of wood you've never turned before.
Yes you can. It cures slowly, and provides virtually no moisture protection, but it enhances the appearance of grain and adds a slight amber hue to light wood. -Paul
If you use med ca after the blo then hold the paper towel on and keep it moving until the smell of the curing ca goes away, it will be smooth and dry then you don't have to sand between coats. I use this process for my pens all the time and have never had a problem where I had to sand at all.
Great question! We have submitted this question to our experts on your behalf. Please allow 1-2 business days for the expert response. We will post it here. Thanks!
I haven't tried it with non-boiled, so I'm not sure. The difference is that there is a drying accelerant in the boiled version. Non-boiled linseed oil takes weeks to cure. I'm not sure whether the chemical reaction produced by this process would adequately accelerate it. If you try it, please let us know. Paul
Put 4 or 5 coats of superglue on the part and polish it. It will shine like a diamond. I've done it for years. And its tough as hell, as well as reasonable heat resistant.
As an agoraphobic I often couldn't get to the dentist when needed. And when I did theyd put a cap on that lasted 2hours, so it turned into a trauma thing. ..You'd be surprised at how well super glue and tissue paper hold up as a temporary tooth 😂 wax coat it and it's good to go. (21st century ftw😄)
Hi Charles. Results will vary based on humidity levels, but it is generally pretty quick and dries to the touch almost immediately. Full cure is generally complete within a few weeks.
The oil mostly acts as a carrier for the cyanoacrylate - it comes to the surface and is absorbed by the towel. This is similar to how French polish works, the oil acts as a carrier for the shellac, so it can be polished on smoothly without sticking.
+jeff oldham A grit in the 220 - 400 range works well between coats. If you buff out later be sure to let the finish set up for 2+ days before buffing, to allow the finish to adequately harden. You can add beeswax if you want, but if you do you should plan to maintain it by reapplying ever 12-18 months as you notice the finish developing a dullness or haze.
absolutely. I use CA on any small projects that will get a lot of use. After I apply several coats of CA, I always wet sand up to at least 10,000 grit. You can buy the packs of sanding sponges for 15 bucks and they last for a long time.
Hi Clark, Pure linseed oil dries very slowly. Boiled linseed oil, which is what is actually used here, dries much faster. Hope this helps, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
I use mineral oil because i have a bunch and dont want to go buy BLO. Seems to work to great, and the mineral oil gives great depth to the wood. Try it out!
using thin CA you can apply coats after about a minute or less. You can also buy an accelerator that you can spray on the CA to make it harden immediately. For sanding, you can wet sand using the packs of sanding sponges that cover all of the different grits. Usually up to about 10,000-12,000 grit. Then I add a polish at the end and it really shines. You can buy all the stuff (glue, accelerator, polish, sanding sponges) online or at Woodcraft or similar stores. www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-mesh-3-x-4-soft-touch-sanding-pads
I've heard that using oil with CA will cause the finish to crack over time. Have you ever experienced this with the linseed oil/CA method? Also, when I use CA to finish, I sometimes get dull looking spots that show up after the final coat that I can't seem to buff out. Is there a method to avoid getting those dull spots?
I have not experienced cracking with CA glue, and I have applied many bottles in this fashion. Regarding the dull spots, try working more sanding dust in with the CA and perhaps it will blend better for you. I haven't seen dull spots specifically but I've seen definite variations in sheen. For larger defects try filling with a mixture of quick set epoxy and sanding dust from the project.
kez3000 -- Spotting is probably an issue of surface prep, not the finish. I've seen such spots in Apple or Cherry with early spalting or "red rot", and the dull areas are softer wood thirsty for more finish. You can try a little sanding sealer (shellac works well) dabbed into those areas with a tiny brush or the corner of a folded paper towel. Allow that to harden, sand very lightly, and then proceed to your favorite finish. CA all by itself can make a great sanding sealer -- apply thin CA, allow to cure, and sand or steel wool lightly. CA usually darkens the wood somewhat, so either get it exactly where you need it, or be sure to coat the whole thing.
Obviously I'm a little late to the party, but I'd like to add my .02 cents. As stated below, softer wood and punky-ish types of wood surfaces will require multiple coats to pre-treat the surface before you can do a final finish. This is especially true for resin work. Appt multiple layers of thin CA glue to the soft wood, sand between coats, until the wood literally cannot soak up any more. Personally, I like to go over the area with a very light and even coat of medium CA glue so that it will bind the surface fibres of the soft wood and then it will be ready for final finishing. #2 I've found that if there are any wet, dirty or oily areas present before the primary coat of CA, you will have a cloudy affect. Actually much similar to shellac and resin problems that arise when there is moisture present on the surface, or, if spraying shellac, the moisture in the air becomes trapped in the spray and results in what they call "blushing". Blushing is very hard to correct and may sometimes require multiple applications then stripping before if can be gotten rid of. Personally, a hair dryer works wonders! Hahaha. Hope this helps! Keep a going!!!
I buy the blue paper towel and cut them in half and then into about 1" strip. Gives you about 20 strips out of each paper towel. Cut up 6 paper towels and you're set for a month!
I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't wear gloves while applying the CA finish. Having used CA in the past (though not with the Linseed combo) I know that thin CA gets everywhere quickly, and takes a while to come off of skin.
I would recommend Rustoleum 2x cover clear www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/clear I use it on the shifter knob for my vehicle and it still looks like new year later like liquid glass
+Fred V. Lord of Glencoe Time between coats is 30 minutes. I take it off my lathe to spray it just because I don't want to cover and protect all the parts on my lathe first, but you could spray it at a low speed on the lathe. If you keep it turned on it would dry evenly with no sagging.
Came out dull. Wait for the oil to dry thoroughly and friction polish it for a couple minutes. Or skip the oil entirely. Use 5 coats of CA water thin glue. I use Starbond. Use the catalyst immediately after each coat and freeze the shine. Wet sand with 800 grit. Polish out with a scratch remover. This creates mirror shine for me that lasts decades and wont dull out like this piece. The ca glue was a waste here. You should be getting a mirror showroom shine. A few more coats would bring this piece there.
Im new-ish to turning, when i started making tool handles i had some poly Minwax one step stain and also Krylon clear-coat spray, after educating myself on the multitude of oil type finish's and trying some, I still think my spray-can of clear-coat and poly stain looks better and is tough as well, Im interested in hearing what you have to say about this, thanks.
people use CA for long term using and also just wax or linseed oil finish will last not long time and may be damaged with water and other liquid. It depends where you want to use it, why people mostly use in pen, because you use it everyday,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Please wood turners be very aware of finishing with any type of CA glues as it does cause brain damage when breathed. I have turned several bowls with ca glue and not knowing I was breathing to much of it The result was strokes for me. The shrinking of blood vessels in my brain. I am 60 years old and almost died just last month because of it.
Is there a benefit to using the oil as well as the CA? I turn mouth pieces for brass instruments and use CA finish on them. After you have put a few coats use a paper towel to polish is with some automotive T-cut (cutting polish) while on the lathe and then buff with a clean piece of paper towel and you will be rewarded with a glass like finish. check out the end of this video of mine (it's the second of a two part video) where i apply the t-cut to a wood rim i put onto a trombone mouth piece. it really makes it pop! ruclips.net/video/7KAp53H2NLg/видео.html
Yes. CA finish is widely used in pen turning. I personally don't like it because it turns the wood into a sort of "plastic that looks like wood". Just my opinion here.
hey, you subscribed a channel from me but now i make some wood videos with turning and that stuff ( in german) maybe you want to check it out (but that shouldn't be an advertisment )
I don't know if this is a joke or what, but I just tried this and I had to leave the garage. The CA gave off fumes so bad I had to shut my eyes and get out because of the pain. I opened both doors to air the place out (not fun since it takes over an hour to warm it up) and then it was fine. I will NEVER trust anything said on this channel ever again!
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![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks George
I'm going to give the boiled linseed oil and CA glue a try. I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos.
I have used the same technique with end grain sealer instead of linseed oil and it works well with what one might call double hardening agents - thanks for the original idea George
Tha ks for posting this! You answered my question about using CA without the accelerator.
I do this on my violin canes. These are mahogany and this gives a hard, durable finish that is so thin that it doesn't interfere with the vibration needed for mellow sound transmission, while standing up to the constant handling of the instrument during playing as well as the intermittent knocks that a walking stick constantly endures.
Great idea!
What is a violin cane? do you mean soundpost or bow?
@@evoandy No. Developed a fibroma in my left foot a few years ago & was required to use a cane. I was also a sort-of fiddle/ violin player, so I made a walking stick that is also a violin. No toy, it's standard 4/4 scale just as in an orchestra or a bluegrass band. Doesn't LOOK like a fiddle until you take off the handle, remove the bow & the caul & the tip, then you screw the handle back on (it is tau shaped), which becomes the shoulder & chin rest.
Allows me to irritate people & cause cats to breed frantically wherever I go. It sounds like a violin because it is a violin. It's quieter than a standard fiddle because the soundbox is so small, but if you'd ever heard me play, you'd know that's a real blessing!
My comment was an endorsement of the boiled linseed, or tungoil, and super-glue finish. If you've not tried that, grab a piece of scrap & give it a whirl. Expect you'll like it.
A very simple procedure that leaves a beautiful and durable finish!
I'm doing a restoration on one of my shaving brushes, and i'm definitely going to do this!
Great video
Thanks for sharing🤩🙏
good idea, i bet it would look good on turnings with beads and coves, like candle stick holders
What a great idea. Thank you!
Thanks all good guys in youtube, other videos and craft USA videos helped me turning fine products, although I never had experience turning wood, acrylic or Tru-stone before (did hand works before).
I use this method and it works well for me. I got same glow finish as long process with smelly CA and Spray method and Micro mesh fishing method. I use both method depends on how it ends up at the end of finishing. This method is quick and not much CA and almost no smell.
Very interesting use of CA glue. Thanks!
Son fantásticos los acabados que logran ustedes con esa gama de productos que les ofrece el mercado, cuanto desearía que en mi país los pudiéramos conseguir.
Un abrazo desde Colombia.
Can I put this over a shellac friction finish
This was very helpful. I just turned my first badger hair shaving brush. I also do a lot of bottle stoppers. Thanks.
How long does it take for the first coat of blo/ca finish to dry?
How long do you let it dry between coats and do you use an accelerator?
Totally new to me !! Great .
Thanks. I was looking for a cheep way to do this and you showed me. Appreciate it
Linseed oil is very flammable, the craziest story I heard of was a sponge being used with linseed oil all day, and left over night in a bucket of water. The oil rose to the surface, saturated the sponge, and had enough surface area to build up heat and ignite the sponge, lighting equipment it was next to inside a 65 degree data center
whats that mount called that he's using to hold that piece on
What grit do you sand with after the first coat? The highest grit you used previously?
on the bottle stopper mandrel or you can make your own mandrel, if you have metal turning lathe. I turn shaving Brush handle on bottle stopper mandrel too.
you can do this all in one step. I do this with my pens, and if you bump up the speed, put a little pressure while applying, it will be smooth and dry, ready for the next coat. Just apply BLO to the towel as suggested, then apply the ca glue on top of that, and spread it. make sure the towel is thick enough so when you apply pressure it doesnt burn your fingers or stick to your fingers. 7-10 coats makes a beautiful finish.
is it waterproof?
Nice info
Could you show or explain how and what you are using to chuck the bottle stopper up ?
+John Spevak The bottle stopper is being turned on this chuck www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html If you use this chuck, you need to make sure the bottle stopper you’re buying has the same threads as the chuck. (3/8” -16)
thanks for this, i've used all manner of different oils, and i've used ca glue, but never thought to combine the two...
right now i'm going through my shellac phase, and i really like the durability and shine i get from that...
thanks again...
Beautiful finish on that cork!! Wow!! Is the cork finish waterproof now?
Hello. No, I would not consider this finish to be waterproof. It would have a moderate level of moisture resistance, but I would not recommend soaking a piece in water when this finish is used. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi, I love this technique, just now I personally use linseed oil alone but it isn't very durable. I'm 15 and live in Scotland so I can't buy these glues over here. Therfore I was wondering if a thin superglue would do the same job?
+Callum Eccles Hello and thanks for your question. Congratulations for pursuing this wonderful hobby at the young age of 15! To answer your question; Yes. Superglue is a brand of cyanoacrylate. The product shown in this video is another brand of cyanoacrylate which has been specially formulated for wood. You should have similar results using other brands of cyanoacrylate, so I'd suggest giving this a try with thin SuperGlue.
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America thank you very much for replying. I really enjoy woodturning I have done it for a few years now. I'll make a pen tomorrow and try this method with superglue.
+WoodWorkers Guild Of America thank you for the advice, I made a project today and tried this technique, it worked brilliantly.
Great way to finish these little projects that are going to be handled. Thanks for posting.
very nice video
George, have you used tung oil in lieu of linseed oil? Does it provide the same results in conjunction with the CA finish?
is the combo even safe to be used on bottle stoppers?
Anybody know if polyurethane finish would work as well?
thanks
What would happen using same on, for example, a cherry fortepiano?
Also the faster you can get the lathe the better. I usually turn pens and bottle stoppers at 2000-2500 then apply the ca/blo to the item. If you use small amounts of blo and ca you won't have a problem with it flinging off the piece your applying it to.
I think it would look better if you used multiple coats of the glue (5-10) and then used a polishing compound or something similar to finish it off. would really make it pop.
You didn't say what grit of sandpaper was being used, or how long for it to cure between coats. Could you let me know those two things, please?
Since no responds must be a big secret.
Buy the micro mesh sanding pads for wet sanding. You can get them on ebay. I get the smaller ones for about $15 at Woodcraft.
www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-mesh-3-x-4-soft-touch-sanding-pads
Why the second oil coat? It’s not going to penetrate the wood as it has a glue surface already?
Hello. Additional coats will adhere to the previous coat, building up additional protection and provide a great depth visually.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
how does this finish stand up to moisture????
CA glue is not particularly resistant to moisture. You are better off using a polyurethane product for higher moisture conditions.
Thanks that is what I thought but wasn't sure always looking for ideas and information good day
super idea like your video
I have plans to turn a handle for an ice cream scoop. Can a thick layer of CA Glue on wood as my finish hold up to hand washing in the sink with soap and water? I can't seem to find an Acrylic blank large enough for what I want to do(Either 2x2x6 or 1.5x1.5x6).
Can I do it for a bowl?
Great question! We have a lot of technical answers on our website. www.fixmyhog.com/harley-tips-a-z-index and ‘Ask an Expert’ section for members of our online community. I would be happy to send your question off to the experts. To get started, please send the email associated with your paid membership. Thanks!
Is this technique just for wood?
the machine you used in this video what is the model and were i can buyer
Okay, will try. Looks simplest way of using CA. Other turners use thin, medium, and thick all at different points in the process, cannot tell which is best without extensive experimenting. Hopefully Boiled Linseed Oil + CA finish does not rub off!!
Hi, two questions, what grit do you use between coats? also, what kind of wood is that? I really like the character. There's nothing better than when you apply a coat of BLO to a type of wood you've never turned before.
Cool can this also be applied to stabilised wood? Thanks
I would think that it would work fine !
WoodWorkers Guild Of America great, thanks. I have stabwood panels on my e cigarette and I want a shine that won’t go dull with constant finger marks
Can you use a cooking grade Walnut oil as a final finish on wood turned bowls?
Yes you can. It cures slowly, and provides virtually no moisture protection, but it enhances the appearance of grain and adds a slight amber hue to light wood. -Paul
Will the Linseed oil still turn the handle/ bottle stopper black over time?
If you use med ca after the blo then hold the paper towel on and keep it moving until the smell of the curing ca goes away, it will be smooth and dry then you don't have to sand between coats. I use this process for my pens all the time and have never had a problem where I had to sand at all.
Hi, love the video. Does the linseed oil have to be boiled?? What is the difference?? Duncan
Great question! We have submitted this question to our experts on your behalf. Please allow 1-2 business days for the expert response. We will post it here. Thanks!
I haven't tried it with non-boiled, so I'm not sure. The difference is that there is a drying accelerant in the boiled version. Non-boiled linseed oil takes weeks to cure. I'm not sure whether the chemical reaction produced by this process would adequately accelerate it. If you try it, please let us know.
Paul
Or just use Tru-oil which dries extremely glossy and holds up very well. It's used extensively in gunstock finishing.
What kind of wood was it
Hello Jordan,
It is white oak.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
No it wasn't. It was bacote. He says so in the video.
Nice post drill you've got back there George... Champion Forge & Blower Model 90?
Put 4 or 5 coats of superglue on the part and polish it. It will shine like a diamond. I've done it for years. And its tough as hell, as well as reasonable heat resistant.
As an agoraphobic I often couldn't get to the dentist when needed. And when I did theyd put a cap on that lasted 2hours, so it turned into a trauma thing. ..You'd be surprised at how well super glue and tissue paper hold up as a temporary tooth 😂 wax coat it and it's good to go. (21st century ftw😄)
Hi George, great demo. How long does it take for the first coat to dry? Best, Daniel
Daniel, the BLO/CA mix dries in just a few minutes
Great, thanks for the tip! great video!
how long do you wait for drying
Hi Jack. It is very quick. You can use the project within minutes after completing this finishing approach.
would teak oil work too?
Hi Paul. I have not tried this so I cannot comment on its effectiveness.
how ong does the CA glue take to dry over the linseed oil?
Hi Charles. Results will vary based on humidity levels, but it is generally pretty quick and dries to the touch almost immediately. Full cure is generally complete within a few weeks.
I love the look. But, I thought CA was impermiable. How does the 2nd or 3rd coat of BLO get past the previous layer(s) of CA and into the wood?
The oil mostly acts as a carrier for the cyanoacrylate - it comes to the surface and is absorbed by the towel. This is similar to how French polish works, the oil acts as a carrier for the shellac, so it can be polished on smoothly without sticking.
what grit of sandpaper did you use between coats,,,and can you buff it out after,,or maybe put some beeswax on it and then buff
+jeff oldham A grit in the 220 - 400 range works well between coats. If you buff out later be sure to let the finish set up for 2+ days before buffing, to allow the finish to adequately harden. You can add beeswax if you want, but if you do you should plan to maintain it by reapplying ever 12-18 months as you notice the finish developing a dullness or haze.
its an Cyanoacrylate glue... so you can use not only by titebond brand
Would coconut oil work instead of linseed oil?
I would not thinks. Boiled linseed oil has hardeners and driers in it. Coconut oil does not
the ca - finishing does not last if stopper or pen are used frequetly.. I did use ca-methot and have a lot of come-backs on the finishing
muito obrigado parabens pelo seu trabalho ficou maravilhoso.
I Saw Barry Gross do this ,,.
Will this finish work on shaving brush handle? I used mineral oil but becomes dull in time.
absolutely. I use CA on any small projects that will get a lot of use. After I apply several coats of CA, I always wet sand up to at least 10,000 grit. You can buy the packs of sanding sponges for 15 bucks and they last for a long time.
John Wachter is
Is this food safe?
I thought linseed oil took FOREVER to dry if not thinned with solvent?
Hi Clark,
Pure linseed oil dries very slowly. Boiled linseed oil, which is what is actually used here, dries much faster.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Would tounge oil or mineral oil work in place of linseed oil?
I use mineral oil because i have a bunch and dont want to go buy BLO. Seems to work to great, and the mineral oil gives great depth to the wood. Try it out!
how long between coats? and sanding. thanks sir.
using thin CA you can apply coats after about a minute or less. You can also buy an accelerator that you can spray on the CA to make it harden immediately. For sanding, you can wet sand using the packs of sanding sponges that cover all of the different grits. Usually up to about 10,000-12,000 grit. Then I add a polish at the end and it really shines. You can buy all the stuff (glue, accelerator, polish, sanding sponges) online or at Woodcraft or similar stores. www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-mesh-3-x-4-soft-touch-sanding-pads
I've heard that using oil with CA will cause the finish to crack over time. Have you ever experienced this with the linseed oil/CA method?
Also, when I use CA to finish, I sometimes get dull looking spots that show up after the final coat that I can't seem to buff out. Is there a method to avoid getting those dull spots?
I have not experienced cracking with CA glue, and I have applied many bottles in this fashion. Regarding the dull spots, try working more sanding dust in with the CA and perhaps it will blend better for you. I haven't seen dull spots specifically but I've seen definite variations in sheen. For larger defects try filling with a mixture of quick set epoxy and sanding dust from the project.
kez3000 -- Spotting is probably an issue of surface prep, not the finish. I've seen such spots in Apple or Cherry with early spalting or "red rot", and the dull areas are softer wood thirsty for more finish. You can try a little sanding sealer (shellac works well) dabbed into those areas with a tiny brush or the corner of a folded paper towel. Allow that to harden, sand very lightly, and then proceed to your favorite finish. CA all by itself can make a great sanding sealer -- apply thin CA, allow to cure, and sand or steel wool lightly. CA usually darkens the wood somewhat, so either get it exactly where you need it, or be sure to coat the whole thing.
Obviously I'm a little late to the party, but I'd like to add my .02 cents.
As stated below, softer wood and punky-ish types of wood surfaces will require multiple coats to pre-treat the surface before you can do a final finish. This is especially true for resin work. Appt multiple layers of thin CA glue to the soft wood, sand between coats, until the wood literally cannot soak up any more. Personally, I like to go over the area with a very light and even coat of medium CA glue so that it will bind the surface fibres of the soft wood and then it will be ready for final finishing.
#2 I've found that if there are any wet, dirty or oily areas present before the primary coat of CA, you will have a cloudy affect.
Actually much similar to shellac and resin problems that arise when there is moisture present on the surface, or, if spraying shellac, the moisture in the air becomes trapped in the spray and results in what they call "blushing". Blushing is very hard to correct and may sometimes require multiple applications then stripping before if can be gotten rid of.
Personally, a hair dryer works wonders! Hahaha.
Hope this helps!
Keep a going!!!
There is a new product on the market!! Nirile gloves.
Nitrile
Does anyone use the pump-spray instant hardner along with the CA glue?
Scott's Wood the best .ca accelerator is NCF QUICK. Can get it about anywhere. Satellite city, woodcraft, Amazon.
I use it frequently, it just wasn't mentioned in the video as I remember.
good job i like so much ... can i know how much is this Machine .... thank you
Lathes usually start at around $300 USD. The tools are separate and can cost upwards of $80 each
Damn that lathe is quiet.
Didn't stood that shiny when glue set
It's a nice finish, but using all that paper towel can't be cost effective. I'll just have to reuse mine from the first coat.
I buy the blue paper towel and cut them in half and then into about 1" strip. Gives you about 20 strips out of each paper towel. Cut up 6 paper towels and you're set for a month!
I'm somewhat surprised that you didn't wear gloves while applying the CA finish. Having used CA in the past (though not with the Linseed combo) I know that thin CA gets everywhere quickly, and takes a while to come off of skin.
I would recommend Rustoleum 2x cover clear www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/clear I use it on the shifter knob for my vehicle and it still looks like new year later like liquid glass
Hey Danny, do you spray it while turning the lathe by hand or low speed ? How many coats ? how much drying time between coats ? any buffing ? thanks !
+Fred V. Lord of Glencoe Time between coats is 30 minutes. I take it off my lathe to spray it just because I don't want to cover and protect all the parts on my lathe first, but you could spray it at a low speed on the lathe. If you keep it turned on it would dry evenly with no sagging.
thanks for the fast response !
Yes CA (Cyanoacrilate) is also known as super glue, crazy glue and other names.
Came out dull. Wait for the oil to dry thoroughly and friction polish it for a couple minutes. Or skip the oil entirely. Use 5 coats of CA water thin glue. I use Starbond. Use the catalyst immediately after each coat and freeze the shine. Wet sand with 800 grit. Polish out with a scratch remover. This creates mirror shine for me that lasts decades and wont dull out like this piece. The ca glue was a waste here. You should be getting a mirror showroom shine. A few more coats would bring this piece there.
is ca glue food safe?
yes once it is dry
Please do a video!! Would love to see you do it. Sand with 800 grit one time after 5 coats or between each coat?
Im new-ish to turning, when i started making tool handles i had some poly Minwax one step stain and also Krylon clear-coat spray, after educating myself on the multitude of oil type finish's and trying some, I still think my spray-can of clear-coat and poly stain looks better and is tough as well,
Im interested in hearing what you have to say about this, thanks.
people use CA for long term using and also just wax or linseed oil finish will last not long time and may be damaged with water and other liquid. It depends where you want to use it, why people mostly use in pen, because you use it everyday,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Please wood turners be very aware of finishing with any type of CA glues as it does cause brain damage when breathed. I have turned several bowls with ca glue and not knowing I was breathing to much of it The result was strokes for me. The shrinking of blood vessels in my brain. I am 60 years old and almost died just last month because of it.
Known as CA/BLO finish...
In response to my own question I just heard you say Bocote.
Ob shine juice
Is there a benefit to using the oil as well as the CA?
I turn mouth pieces for brass instruments and use CA finish on them. After you have put a few coats use a paper towel to polish is with some automotive T-cut (cutting polish) while on the lathe and then buff with a clean piece of paper towel and you will be rewarded with a glass like finish.
check out the end of this video of mine (it's the second of a two part video) where i apply the t-cut to a wood rim i put onto a trombone mouth piece. it really makes it pop!
ruclips.net/video/7KAp53H2NLg/видео.html
Yes. CA finish is widely used in pen turning. I personally don't like it because it turns the wood into a sort of "plastic that looks like wood". Just my opinion here.
steve jobs?!?!
hey, you subscribed a channel from me but now i make some wood videos with turning and that stuff ( in german) maybe you want to check it out (but that shouldn't be an advertisment )
You need to wear a finishing mask when you apply CA.
Vvnn
I don't know if this is a joke or what, but I just tried this and I had to leave the garage.
The CA gave off fumes so bad I had to shut my eyes and get out because of the pain.
I opened both doors to air the place out (not fun since it takes over an hour to warm it up) and then it was fine.
I will NEVER trust anything said on this channel ever again!