Nice vid man excellent demo. I’d recommend avoiding the burr after finding it once at low grit. Finishing strokes like you did at the end are key at the end of each stone. Nice job!
Yeah, it’s not the end of the world to get a burr on each stone…some high level guys even prefer that for certain, high vanadium steels. Myself, once I’m up to 1000 grit or so, I’m usually trying to get some burr minimalization happening in there along with the normal refinement. If you get it right, it’ll immediately whittle hairs off an 8 micron strop, from 8cr13mov up to 10v
I believe you can improve your sharpness with what you already have by edge trailing strokes at the end after knocking off the burr. My reasoning for this is your stones have peaks( the tops of the diamonds) and those peaks hit your apex degrading it ever so slightly. It’s like what Murray Carter said about sharpening a blade in sand. If you go apex first threw the sand it won’t sharpen but if you go back words it will. Either way keep it up
Hey Sean! I sharpen freehand since i was 15 . Okay i tried to sharpen at this age,but now I can say i am a pro sharpener. But sometimes you don't have the time or let's say the mod to sharpen and take care for the angles. After a hard Day at Work it would be awesome with a kme system. If you don't want, you shouldn't force yourself to sharpening. But that system works great from what I have heard. Thanks for the Video. Greetings from Austria as always
Once you have it clamped it will be perfectly horizontal, then you can take a angle cube, zero it on your table and then lay it on top of the stone holder. If you mark the edge with sharpie, the angle that you can remove all the sharpie from the bevel is your current angle. The angle indicator on the sharpener are usually close but not exact. Besides that I can look at a edge and usually guess what degree it’s at based off of the size of the bevel and the blade thickness behind the edge all by simply looking at it because of how many knives I’ve sharpened and actually measured so I’ve developed a eye for it.
Bro u know what your doing. Just remember when u can't feel the burr sometimes it standing straight up. Also edge leading to finish is prob your best bet, As light as u can.
Shit the 120 did fine! Reprofiled it really quickly! I also sharpened maxamet today and reprofiled that one also and it did just fine with the 120! We will see once the stones break in and loose some aggression but for now they are doing awesome!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL the 50 grit beast wears out way to fast. Save your money. The 100 grit stone is much better and lasts much longer. I've had my KME for 3 years and all the stones are fine except the pos 50 grit stone. It wore out after 3 or 4 uses.
@@timbo4374 that’s what I was thinking, the 140 did fine for me reprofiling everything so far! I’m used to using narrow lansky aluminum oxide stones so just the 140 KME diamond cuts my time down to a fraction of what it usually takes! Also I don’t apply pressure so my stones last awhile anyway!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL it's not a necessity, just makes things quicker and easier when you're re-profiling the factory edge or repairing a chip for sure!
Z-wear! Wow! That is BADASS! Love spyderco! Never seen one in Z-wear!
Got one of these after seen you with it bro. It’s awesome.
That’s awesome man, can’t go wrong with KME! 💯👊🏼😁
Very well done! The kme seems to work well. Great video 👍
Thanks brother! It’s a very nice system!
Nice vid man excellent demo. I’d recommend avoiding the burr after finding it once at low grit. Finishing strokes like you did at the end are key at the end of each stone. Nice job!
Thanks brother and I’ll keep that in mind!! 👊🏼😁
Yeah, it’s not the end of the world to get a burr on each stone…some high level guys even prefer that for certain, high vanadium steels. Myself, once I’m up to 1000 grit or so, I’m usually trying to get some burr minimalization happening in there along with the normal refinement. If you get it right, it’ll immediately whittle hairs off an 8 micron strop, from 8cr13mov up to 10v
I believe you can improve your sharpness with what you already have by edge trailing strokes at the end after knocking off the burr. My reasoning for this is your stones have peaks( the tops of the diamonds) and those peaks hit your apex degrading it ever so slightly. It’s like what Murray Carter said about sharpening a blade in sand. If you go apex first threw the sand it won’t sharpen but if you go back words it will. Either way keep it up
Hey Sean! I sharpen freehand since i was 15 . Okay i tried to sharpen at this age,but now I can say i am a pro sharpener. But sometimes you don't have the time or let's say the mod to sharpen and take care for the angles. After a hard Day at Work it would be awesome with a kme system. If you don't want, you shouldn't force yourself to sharpening. But that system works great from what I have heard. Thanks for the Video. Greetings from Austria as always
Just now getting all your comments for some reason! But yeah man this system makes it pretty easy to get a nice sharp edge for sure!
Enjoyed the video great job👍
Thanks brother!!!
That’s a nice system
Wish I got that instead of my work sharp guided rod system. Although I saved some cash
KME is a great system. They have a scissor attachment and it works very well
Hell yeah! I saw that! Definitely going to have to get that beings that I’m a Barber!!!
How do you find the degree of the edge of a full flat ground if there is no flats? I always wondered. I always wanted a sharper like this
Once you have it clamped it will be perfectly horizontal, then you can take a angle cube, zero it on your table and then lay it on top of the stone holder. If you mark the edge with sharpie, the angle that you can remove all the sharpie from the bevel is your current angle. The angle indicator on the sharpener are usually close but not exact. Besides that I can look at a edge and usually guess what degree it’s at based off of the size of the bevel and the blade thickness behind the edge all by simply looking at it because of how many knives I’ve sharpened and actually measured so I’ve developed a eye for it.
Bro u know what your doing. Just remember when u can't feel the burr sometimes it standing straight up. Also edge leading to finish is prob your best bet, As light as u can.
you're gonna need that 50 grit Beast.
Shit the 120 did fine! Reprofiled it really quickly! I also sharpened maxamet today and reprofiled that one also and it did just fine with the 120! We will see once the stones break in and loose some aggression but for now they are doing awesome!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL the 50 grit beast wears out way to fast. Save your money. The 100 grit stone is much better and lasts much longer. I've had my KME for 3 years and all the stones are fine except the pos 50 grit stone. It wore out after 3 or 4 uses.
@@timbo4374 that’s what I was thinking, the 140 did fine for me reprofiling everything so far! I’m used to using narrow lansky aluminum oxide stones so just the 140 KME diamond cuts my time down to a fraction of what it usually takes! Also I don’t apply pressure so my stones last awhile anyway!
@@timbo4374 you just have to use edge trailing strokes only. Had mine for a long time, definitely last a lot longer than 3 or 4 uses. More like 40-50.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL it's not a necessity, just makes things quicker and easier when you're re-profiling the factory edge or repairing a chip for sure!
Couldn't you just strop it to get rid of burr
Yeah but it’s not ideal and you’ll end up with a less sharp edge!