I really love this vid. Pan F 50Plus is a great film, I'm sorry you messed it. The project and execution is great and the final prints are really amazing! Great job!
Lovely prints, nicely done. Re. the metering issue - have you considered picking up an old Weston Master meter? Smaller and convenient and much less expensive than a modern bells n' whistles meter. I got mine for £15 off eBay. It can be used as a reflected light meter or an incident meter (my personal preference) with the invercone attachment. They're all pretty old, but there are thousands of them out there and it's easy to get hold of one in working order. I usually rely on Sunny 16 for outdoor daylight stuff with no problems, but I think I would have used the Weston for an indoor still life.
You are such a master to me.Because of your videos, i started looking for setting up a dark room.Can you tell me what kind of ilford papers and filter you used for these shots? My set up is bronica 6*6 and i develope my bw film at home.
Such a simple subject with really lovely results. Really enjoying your content, presentation and enjoyment that you have with film! Keep them coming, subscribed for about a month now, and SO glad I did!
Back in the day, I passed my photography A-level exam using this film (pan f 50) using an OM 10 and a Lubital 166, and it still holds up today....nice video man
Nice photos from the 50 speed medium format film and I thought you used the beer in the film processing for it's malted barley, corn and hops to get better grain in the photo.
Your channel is so inspiring. Could you please say more about the vaseline around the glass plate? Is that done on the enlarger? I'm still learning about film photography. Thank you so much! Keep up the good work.
The lowest I've gone on ISO speed is Adox CMS 20 (ISO 20 and takes a special low contrast developer) in 35mm, Fuji Super HR and Kodak Imagelink HQ microfilms in my 16mm cameras. I've generally had good results, but I never had to meter with another camera that won't go to the actual ISO I'm using. My suspicion is that somewhere in the process, you lost the 2x factor for metering at ISO 100 and shooting at ISO 50. I highly recommend CMS 20, developed in a low contrast version of Caffenol (though Adox apparently pushes their special developer pretty hard -- and in fairness, I haven't tried the CMS 20 II) -- punchy, but not excessive contrast, and the resolution is incredible; 16x20 from 35mm is easy-peasy, assuming you nail the focus. Good luck with the grain focuser, though; there's nothing there to focus on. Also worth noting, CMS 20 II has a reduced red sensitivity, so it would have darkened the red tulips more than the Pan F or FP4+ did -- it's like shooting with a light minus-red filter.
David Hancock did a very interesting 25 minute video on RUclips about this film in 35mm & 120 and tested 5-6 developers and does a great job pointing out the good/bad aspects to this stock. Thanks for your video.
As I recall, a number of DSLR cameras "bottom out" at ISO 100. For better accuracy, invest in a hand held exposure meter. For dual use, consider a Minolta Auto Meter IVF or Sekonic L-256D, which double as flash meters. Don't have that much "disposable income"? search for a Sekonic L-28C or equivalent Selenium cell exposure meters. Don't forget the usual film photographer's mantra: expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" and all should be well.
After some testing, I found PanF+ to really be closer to an ASA 25 film. Rated and developed at 50 (at least with the chemicals I used) it had way too much contrast, and at 50 it also has more grain than you’d expect from such a slow film. PanF+ is a picky film!
I'm curious to find out where the Pan F+ went wrong. Was it the metering or the developing? Also, why did you shoot in the vertical (portrait) orientation if you printed square prints? Is it easier to figure out the crop with the enlarger?
Can't remember now. I reckon the portrait view was influenced by the height of the plant. I cropped square and printed as so. But I have the option to print portrait which would suit more than landscape. Development or metering? I'd need to shoot more pan f to get to know it more.
Absolutely gorgeous images in the end, I’d be very proud of them. You’ve also learnt something without it affecting the work you are handing over to your friend/client. Unfortunately it did cost you a roll of film, developing chemicals and time, but much worse things than that can happen. The lowest I ever go is Delta 100, and then I use my spot meter, I find using a digital camera as a light meter can be very unreliable for some reason. Another great video, I find your honest videos far much better than when the RUclipsr only shows where it goes right. Thank you for posting it Roger.
I have found that my handheld minolta and sekonic meters don't match with the in camera dslr meters as much as 2 to 3 stops. My meters work great with film, but with digital you check the shot on the lcd and realize it is not exposing the same as film iso.
Really enjoy your videos for quite some time now. Keep it up! I have a roll of panf 50 in my pocket and never used that kind of film before. So I'm definitely goin to be careful with the exposure time. Quick question: I recently tried out some FB paper for the first time. Do you only use RC or do you have any experience with fibre? Maybe a video about it?
Did you ever do the tests that you mentioned at the end of the video? (it could also be an issue with using a DSLR as your meter, requiring an adjustment, though I thought that your Mamiya did have an internal meter)
Hi Roger, really enjoying your videos, your not afraid to try something different and experiment! Great work! I read in the comments section your reply to a comment where you asked about using household bleach on prints, that will have no effect whatsoever. The chemical you need is potassium fericyanide, it's a bright orange coloured granular chemical which is diluted in water. Not that expensive to buy and once made into a working strength solution can be bottled an re -used. Same bleach as found in ready made sepia toning kits. Requires a bit of experience in its use though! Very handy chemical to have in the darkroom, Google it, there must be plenty of info on its use in the darkroom.
Yes Thanks Clive. I have experimented with household bleach on some of my "bad" prints. I found diluting in water and with a small paint brush I can boost highlights! It seems to wipe away the silvers. Completely if too hard, slightly if delicate. I never kept those prints to see the long term effect though! Usually binned them afterwards.
Shame about the Pan F. I recently just shot my first roll on some waterfalls after a good rain. I was a bit worried on how they'd turn out but I was pleasantly surprised. I'm excited to shoot some more. Maybe I'll try 135 this time around.
I think I know your problem with the pan F 50. You metered on iso 100 and cut the time in half for the pan f 50. But instead you must double the metered exposure time.
Nothing short of AMAZING.
My heart dropped on the first roll!!
Yours did! Lol
I love these videos from concept through to final prints. Good job! I've had the same problem with Pan F.
Thanks Josh. A good test I need to find its sweet spot. 😀
I really love this vid. Pan F 50Plus is a great film, I'm sorry you messed it. The project and execution is great and the final prints are really amazing! Great job!
Thanks Jacopo!
Lovely prints, nicely done. Re. the metering issue - have you considered picking up an old Weston Master meter? Smaller and convenient and much less expensive than a modern bells n' whistles meter. I got mine for £15 off eBay. It can be used as a reflected light meter or an incident meter (my personal preference) with the invercone attachment. They're all pretty old, but there are thousands of them out there and it's easy to get hold of one in working order. I usually rely on Sunny 16 for outdoor daylight stuff with no problems, but I think I would have used the Weston for an indoor still life.
Thanks Jim. I have a Sekonic now. I also have an old Sixtino that I use. But I have heard Western meters are good. Peter Elgar uses them.
You are such a master to me.Because of your videos, i started looking for setting up a dark room.Can you tell me what kind of ilford papers and filter you used for these shots?
My set up is bronica 6*6 and i develope my bw film at home.
Such a simple subject with really lovely results. Really enjoying your content, presentation and enjoyment that you have with film! Keep them coming, subscribed for about a month now, and SO glad I did!
Thanks Craig!
Back in the day, I passed my photography A-level exam using this film (pan f 50) using an OM 10 and a Lubital 166, and it still holds up today....nice video man
Cheers mate.
Excellent video - beautiful prints and I really liked the new “up close” camera you used to film the print developing.
Thanks Andrew :)
Nice photos from the 50 speed medium format film and I thought you used the beer in the film processing for it's malted barley, corn and hops to get better grain in the photo.
Wonderful video. I like the new angle during photo development. Nice touch. Images came out great!
Thanks Patrick. More editing but I think it's more detailed.
Great Video! your face after checking the first film... priceless! lol
Your channel is so inspiring. Could you please say more about the vaseline around the glass plate? Is that done on the enlarger? I'm still learning about film photography. Thank you so much! Keep up the good work.
Yes the glass plate is placed under the lens when enlarging a print.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss , also what size print are you making with your 6x4.5? Thank you so much! Love your channel!
The lowest I've gone on ISO speed is Adox CMS 20 (ISO 20 and takes a special low contrast developer) in 35mm, Fuji Super HR and Kodak Imagelink HQ microfilms in my 16mm cameras. I've generally had good results, but I never had to meter with another camera that won't go to the actual ISO I'm using. My suspicion is that somewhere in the process, you lost the 2x factor for metering at ISO 100 and shooting at ISO 50.
I highly recommend CMS 20, developed in a low contrast version of Caffenol (though Adox apparently pushes their special developer pretty hard -- and in fairness, I haven't tried the CMS 20 II) -- punchy, but not excessive contrast, and the resolution is incredible; 16x20 from 35mm is easy-peasy, assuming you nail the focus. Good luck with the grain focuser, though; there's nothing there to focus on. Also worth noting, CMS 20 II has a reduced red sensitivity, so it would have darkened the red tulips more than the Pan F or FP4+ did -- it's like shooting with a light minus-red filter.
David Hancock did a very interesting 25 minute video on RUclips about this film in 35mm & 120 and tested 5-6 developers and does a great job pointing out the good/bad aspects to this stock. Thanks for your video.
As I recall, a number of DSLR cameras "bottom out" at ISO 100. For better accuracy, invest in a hand held exposure meter. For dual use, consider a Minolta Auto Meter IVF or Sekonic L-256D, which double as flash meters. Don't have that much "disposable income"? search for a Sekonic L-28C or equivalent Selenium cell exposure meters. Don't forget the usual film photographer's mantra: expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" and all should be well.
After some testing, I found PanF+ to really be closer to an ASA 25 film. Rated and developed at 50 (at least with the chemicals I used) it had way too much contrast, and at 50 it also has more grain than you’d expect from such a slow film. PanF+ is a picky film!
I need to do some tests with it in my preferred developer to establish how to shoot it for next time.
Shoot it at 50 and develop with DDX, found it a little bit kina grainy than ACROS and similar contrast, nah... it just not for me😐
I'm curious to find out where the Pan F+ went wrong. Was it the metering or the developing?
Also, why did you shoot in the vertical (portrait) orientation if you printed square prints? Is it easier to figure out the crop with the enlarger?
Can't remember now. I reckon the portrait view was influenced by the height of the plant. I cropped square and printed as so. But I have the option to print portrait which would suit more than landscape. Development or metering? I'd need to shoot more pan f to get to know it more.
Absolutely gorgeous images in the end, I’d be very proud of them. You’ve also learnt something without it affecting the work you are handing over to your friend/client. Unfortunately it did cost you a roll of film, developing chemicals and time, but much worse things than that can happen. The lowest I ever go is Delta 100, and then I use my spot meter, I find using a digital camera as a light meter can be very unreliable for some reason. Another great video, I find your honest videos far much better than when the RUclipsr only shows where it goes right. Thank you for posting it Roger.
Thanks Mark. It's always important to fail. That's how we learn to move forward.
Shoot Film Like a Boss It’s certainly my best way of learning.
I have found that my handheld minolta and sekonic meters don't match with the in camera dslr meters as much as 2 to 3 stops. My meters work great with film, but with digital you check the shot on the lcd and realize it is not exposing the same as film iso.
Perhaps stack the faint exposures into a "double exposure" at least than it is not a total loss
Really enjoy your videos for quite some time now. Keep it up! I have a roll of panf 50 in my pocket and never used that kind of film before. So I'm definitely goin to be careful with the exposure time. Quick question: I recently tried out some FB paper for the first time. Do you only use RC or do you have any experience with fibre? Maybe a video about it?
Thanks Winston. I've been getting feedback people shooting it at 25 speed. I've yet to venture into fiber. Something I want to do!
Did you ever do the tests that you mentioned at the end of the video? (it could also be an issue with using a DSLR as your meter, requiring an adjustment, though I thought that your Mamiya did have an internal meter)
I haven't as yet Jonathan. The Mamiya I use has no light meter unless you attach the prism view finder.
Please let me know your opinio about PAN F do you recomend It?nescposed at 50 or at 25?? Best regards from ARGENTINA
I will when I get it right Gerardo! 😀
Hi Roger, really enjoying your videos, your not afraid to try something different and experiment! Great work! I read in the comments section your reply to a comment where you asked about using household bleach on prints, that will have no effect whatsoever. The chemical you need is potassium fericyanide, it's a bright orange coloured granular chemical which is diluted in water. Not that expensive to buy and once made into a working strength solution can be bottled an re -used. Same bleach as found in ready made sepia toning kits. Requires a bit of experience in its use though! Very handy chemical to have in the darkroom, Google it, there must be plenty of info on its use in the darkroom.
Yes Thanks Clive. I have experimented with household bleach on some of my "bad" prints. I found diluting in water and with a small paint brush I can boost highlights! It seems to wipe away the silvers. Completely if too hard, slightly if delicate. I never kept those prints to see the long term effect though! Usually binned them afterwards.
Love u work
Thanks Martin :)
U work remind me of Robert Maplethorpe 👍👍👍
Nice video! Did you forget the link to Tim's channel? Couldn't find it...
Cheers. ruclips.net/channel/UCa_DOiO4chl7MB9bkiS4sTw
Great content!
Shame about the Pan F. I recently just shot my first roll on some waterfalls after a good rain. I was a bit worried on how they'd turn out but I was pleasantly surprised. I'm excited to shoot some more. Maybe I'll try 135 this time around.
Hey Brad. I'll get round to shooting it again soon!
I think you're really gonna like it! Absolutely beautiful shadow detail!
Great Episode 👌
Oh, I though light from the GoPro LCD will affect the print! Is it safe to film in a darkroom with open LCD?
I've not had a problem with it and I have a DSLR going as well. The paper is always in front of the camera.
I think I know your problem with the pan F 50. You metered on iso 100 and cut the time in half for the pan f 50. But instead you must double the metered exposure time.
I think that too! Thanks!
@4:09 He mentioned metering 1/30 sec at ISO 100, hence 1/15 sec for ISO 50.
Flowers in monochrome!!!
Pan F is better shot at 25. Nice prints. The manufacturers always exaggerate with black and white film.
Yes, I need to test it for my particular development process.
nice camera and bracket mate shame about the pan f 50 hp5 is always reliable film
Next time Beau!
did you check it on www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
I did.
Why would anyone want a picture of colorful tulips in black-and-white?
Because they like Black and White?