Breaking the Pentax 67 Sync Speed
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- After a photo shoot, I wanted to discuss how you can get past the 1/30 Sync Speed on the Pentax 67. This can be done with two leaf shutter lenses Pentax made specific to the 67 line; the 90mm f/2.8 LS and the 165mm f/4 LS.
I do a quick walk-through of how the lens operates with the camera in its various modes.
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Thank you for this clear and informative explanation, it is highly appreciated.
Superb no-nonsense explanation
Thanks a lot for this! Just a question: Shouldn't I be using the sync port in the LS-lens (and not the camera body) while shooting in U-mode? Thanks again!
Have you ever had an issue with the U/S lever on this lens? Just purchased mine and when I try to change from U to S, it springs right back to U. Wondering if this is user error or something you've experienced with your camera?
Do you need to use the mirror lock up feature in order to use flash on the leaf shutter lens or will it work fine setting the camera's shutter speed slower than the lens shutter speed?
You do not need to lock up the mirror to use the leaf shutter lenses (with the leaf shutter, that is). You do need to set the focal plane shutter to a very slow speed, so it is fully open before the leaf shutter cycles. Whatever exposure you get, it totally controlled by the leaf shutter.
See, I have the 90mm LS and its great for studio portraits, but, I'm wanting to take some wide shots with strobes for a project im working on. If i was to shoot in a room that wouldn't need anything more than a 1/30th of a second shutter speed (the sync speed) to cut out the ambient light, would i be okay to use the 75mm wide angle for example? Would the 1/30th of a second and the mirror slap still result in any sort of camera shake or would the speed of the strobes freeze the image?
In that case flash duration comes into play. The Einsteins I have in the background have two modes: color and action. Action mode pumps out the same watt seconds of light but at a faster pulse. Allowing you to stop motion. As long as you keep your ambient light completely controlled during the duration of the shutter you should be good. Additionally I’ve shot 1/30 just fine with a tighter lens and they still come out super sharp (105 f/2.4). With a 75mm you’re fine.
For what you describe, and lens will work fine. In continuous daylight, you, might get some image blur if you are hand-holding the camera, but if your exposure is by electronic flash, the flash sets the exposure speed, which would be 1/1000 of faster - no blur there.
Great work around, thanks!!!
How do I use the lens "normal"? Meaning, without the leaf shutter?
Just don’t cock the shutter on the lens and keep it on ‘U’ for usual mode.
What is the "X" setting for on the shutter speed dial? I thought I saw somewhere that it sets the shutter speed at 1/30 and looks to the sync port labelled "X" to trigger the shutter.. is that what you're doing in your video?
The flash connector ports are always active. The X setting on the shutter speed dial (focal plane shutter) just sets the fastest speed at which the shutter will be fully open and available for an electronic flash exposure.
Is it possible to fire this lens without using leaf shutter? I want to use in body shutter in most cases and use ls only in studio
@@olszmen only in “Special Mode” with a shutter release cable.
Does your light meter read off the leaf shutter setting or your camera’s setting? Is this where an external light meter would come in handy?
Shutter speed is somewhat irrelevant for strobe. The faster shutter speed is to decrease your ambient spilling into your shot.
Thanks! My only confusion is how do you control shutter speed like you normally would if you have to set the shutter at 1/30 or below to sync? Wouldn’t that blur the photo?
It doesn’t really apply because the faster leaf shutter has already captured the image. The shutter has its own shutter speed settings. The focal plane has to be open longer for the leaf shutter to capture the image.
Note that when you use the option of leaving the camera back open and then do exposures separately with the leaf shutter, the operation of the open body shutter is putting a large load on the camera battery. Were you to forget and leave the camera in that condition overnight, the battery would be long gone in the morning. And yes, the 90mm 2.8 LS lens is a first generation lens which presents two negatives: (1) it is optically inferior to the non-LS version which replaced it, and (2) it's old and there are absolutely no repair parts available for the shutter. If you want to use this operation, buy the 165mm 2.8 instead. It's focal length is also better for portraiture than is the semi-wide 90mm.
That is a very good point. Totally forgot to mention the battery load on the camera.
I found some information that 90mm 2.8 LS is softness than 90MM 2.8 or 105mm 2.4. Do you agree with this point of view?
@@Arthurwanggg I have not personally compared the sharpness of the 90mm LS versus the later 90mm. The non-LS lens is a later generation of design and is reputed to be sharper than the LS. It is sharper and has more contrast than the 105mm. Frankly, on its best day the 105mm is an average sharpness lens compared to others of similar focal length in the 67 inventory, probably because of optical compromise made to reach the 2.4 maximum aperture. IMO the 105mm is much over hyped and not worth the current prices, which are running double or more what it sold for just a few years ago, which was $125-175. I've used the 90mm 2,8 for decades as my "normal" lens. I recently picked up a 100mm 4.0, which is just stunning.
Do you strobe outdoors with the 67? Havê you tried long tail sync?
Can't say I have! If I'm deadset on shooting the Pentax 67 outdoors, I'll throw an ND filter on it.
where can we see pics with flash of the 105mm?
Here you go! instagram.com/p/B8vGSstHAGn/?
awesome setup......what kind of speed lights do you got there?
Thanks! Paul C. Buff Einsteins!
Thank you gor this demonstration. However I got little bit confused. If I just want to shoot in S - mode normally without MLU, do I need necessarily release cable or i just can fire with a a normal button on the camera?
excelente, thanks
Excellent insight into how those lens work!
I have the 90mm 2.8 LS with the Pentax 67II. I have tried twice now to shoot at 125th of a second with the lens cocked with the body at 1/8th with strobes and both times the negatives came out underexposed... Any ideas as to whats going wrong? I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Bought the whole kit because of this lens cock loop hole and now I kinda wish I would of stuck with the RZ67
What does the meter say?
Is your lens calibrated.
How much do you want?
If these are in-studio shoots using stobes as you say, then the whole application of the LS lens system is a waste of time. The exposure is determined by the lens aperture and the light output of the strobes. All the shutter does (either body or LS) is open before and close after exposure. Assuming the lens aperture operation is not broken, your issues are entirely located in your flash system. The only time the LS lens is needed for its leaf shutter operation is when you are shooting out of doors and trying to balance daylight with fill-flash. I suspect that if you did the same set-up, just replacing the Pentax with an RZ67, you would have the same problem results.
@@randallstewart1224 Thanks Randall! I actually figured that out for myself recently and now love the system. I appreciate it.
@@randallstewart1224 i think you have nailed this entirely. The only application I can see this lens for is shooting outdoors in daylight trying to balance flash with ambient. 30 second handheld in studio or indoors is ample to darken most ambient light levels.
I need that lens.
Thanksss
Great explanation of an extremely convoluted and over-complicated process. So many steps to mess up, I think I'd just get the Hasselblad or RZ out for fast flash shooting and forget the Pentax.
Outstanding and thorough explanation. Now I just need the left-hand grip to mount the flash trigger - too much stuff to hold. :D
Sorry, but you are using wrong words to describe things...easily done and I would do the same 2:50 needs re-edit.
You lost me