(663) Vulnerability DESIGNED INTO Master Lock & American Padlocks
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- IN this video I'll demonstrate a vulnerability that MasterLock and American Locks have built into their padlock bodies.
Deolslyfox pointed out a vulnerability that Master and American padlocks have designed into their lock bodies. Easy to exploit, you have to wonder WHAT they were thinking....
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![[607] Core Puller vs. American Series 700 Padlock](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5xu0q9bKn50/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm surprised that the size of the drill bit needed wasn't written next to the hole.
According to American Lock's website, Master Lock acquired them in 2003. Unless I'm reading it wrong, this could mean that the 1105 with date code 2/97 had the second drain hole redesign nearly 6 years before Master Lock had anything to do with them. Maybe there was some interfacing between the companies before the full acquisition, but barring that information I don't think we should blame Master Lock as the source of the design, only for continuing it. Still, Master Lock continues to suck in many other aspects and I still love watching Bill's vids.
The pilot hole is interesting but if you're going to drill a hole through the lock you might as well as defeat the shackle. Easier and makes a whole lot more sense.
Hahaha google is showing ads for master lock with this video
😢👍
Click them, make masterlock pay BB for ad revenue 😂
Someone wanting to break through that lock is far more likely to have bolt cutters than a drill, even in this day and age of battery drills. So yes, it is a weak point, but then again so is the shackle.
Bill I think you pissed off Master Lock.
hahahahahaha
bosnianbill If these drunk clowns insist on suing you, perhaps you could counter sue on behalf of disgruntled customers for "malpractice"! After all, they make locks so shouldn't the locks be halfway decent? Hey, medical companies are found liable all the time for lousy drugs and vaccines so in some way, maybe lock companies can't be immune from lawsuits. LOL. Keep up the great work and keep dem videos coming! I speak on behalf of your viewers: we can't get enuff!
+bosnianbill LOL... these just keep getting better! haha I wonder when masterlock will start sending you death threats
master lock sucks...their standard silver/blue padlocks only have a few key designs. Our company has a several of them that work with the same key. Well one day I got locked out of a site that had the same style of lock so for the hell of it I tried my key and guess what? it opened! I work for a mechanical contractor and the lock on the site to the gate was owned by the general contractor. So anyone with a key to that gate can get into our job boxes and vice versa...pretty sorry excuse for security.
Hi Bill,
American Lock has had the second drain hole since at least 1986. Perhaps they forgot to mill the second drain on that lock made in '87? Master Bought out American Lock in 2003-04. FYI
Thanks for the cool vids.
-Hunter
Maybe I'm mistaken, or maybe you addressed it later, but from what I can tell Master Lock didn't buy American until 2003. If that flaw was around in the 90s, then it wasn't Master Lock's fault
Similar situation in Titalium's from ABUS currently sold in Switzerland. Also useful to locate the 5 seconds grinder cut that does the job as well.
Great knowledge Bill, love watching your conferences.
I came across your videos on Facebook and left a comment. Couldn’t find the video here, but I wanted to leave my comment from FB for a bit of history:
BosnianBill, first off, great video!
Some comments have touched on it already, but, in wanted to hit on some specific details.
Government Secured Containers should be secured with locks and or a locking apparatus from the General Services Administration (GSA) approved lock list. Further guidance can come from sub-level entities such as the Federal Acquisition Service (FAS), the Public Buildings Service (PBS), the Defense Logistics Agency (DLA), etc.; who will keep such locks on hand in stocked warehouses or which can be ordered directly from the GSA from approved manufacturers or fabricated with adequate need and authorization. E.g. a GSA lock body retrofitted with a security hardened core.
Master lock has a subsidiary/branch brand named American Lock [see the link] which is pretty standard fare throughout the History of the War Department and later the Department of Defense. I believe that the lock featured in your video is one of the 6002NKA (NSN 01-437-0625) either made of laminated steel or brass.
I believe this is still considered a part of the American Lock system of locks, but, it is a “GSA lock” regardless.
I hope you enjoyed this unnecessary explanation of Govie locks. Keep testing security, and I love what you do!
www.masterlock.com/americanlock#:~:text=American%20Lock®%20is%20the,Lock%20Company's%20portfolio%20of%20brands.
With a little measuring, I can drill it out without a pilot hole.Since the bodies are soft, I would suggest using a hardened screw.
With a battery operated dremel tool , I just grind off the head on the bottom , next to the key hole . works every time ...
Just when u think Masterlock couldnt b any worse, theyve went n outdone themselves this time, they might as well include a rake n tensioner with each purchase
Reminds me of the "school locker" combination locks from Master. Behind the back plate, there is a conveniently placed quarter-inch hole in the hardened steel body. You can turn the dial three turns clockwise, drill said spot (the back plate is rather soft), and drill through all three discs. Then you turn the dial half a turn clockwise and it's open. Almost makes you wonder whether they put this weakness there deliberately. I know bolt cutters also cut throuh its "hardened" shackle like a hot knive through butter, but a small electric drill is more easily concealable.
Yes and in the next version will they add a pushbutton you can use, if you forgot your key. :-)
Picked and gutted (destroyed) a master lock and found 3 spool pins and 3 serrated pins. It gave me a bit of trouble to pick thus the destruction. Didn’t know master lock did that?
This happens a lot in engineering companies, where months of security work goes down the drain because of last minute marketing department decisions.
I've a question... What's the big deal with that hole?..
I mean, if you need to basically drill it in order to take advantage of it, what's the point?.
If the whole was not there, couldn't you just drill the lock on some other point and gain access?.
What I mean is: if in order to take advantage of that weakness you need to basically destroy the lock, is it really a weakness?.
the problem with the hole is:
-Now even a fucktard knows where to dill.
-Its acts like a pilot hole, even when you are on an adrenaline rush with shaky hands, the drillbit wont miss.
-the time it takes to it open with a drill is shorter, since you have to get trough less material, and the hole will hold the drillbit, so it wont slide off the body in rain.
(not like a Master is a challange to rake open anyway)
Mr. Master Lock and his genius designer must have blushed at this video!
Thanks Bill
Thanks for raising our awareness of how crappy and insecure these novice locks are. I wouldn't buy a hammer made out of cooked pasta or Tiffany glass, neither would I buy a lock that doesn't work as a lock to lock things, securely, such that they are locked. (In other words, I will never buy anything from Master Lock.)
Master Lock are sold in a lot of store in Italy. And people think they are very good locks....... Many thanks Bill for your explanation.
I thought you were going to use a hardened pick to back out the screw!
Push the pick in against the screw-head, then lever it to the side.
Repeat for a metric eternity...
Sure it would be tedious, but the defeat would not require drilling anything.
Interesting vulnerability, but to be fair you’d probably get in quicker and less conspicuously with bolt cutters than if you spent two minutes drilling it out.
Bill, so in the Army, walking around with bolt cutters would fairly quickly get you asked about you were doing.. On the other hand carrying around a drill and a 3/16 to 1/4 inch bit was no biggie. Many times I've just simply drilled the soft steel tapered recess nut on the bottom of that screw and get the same results in about 10 seconds. While the barrel was out I would then re-key the lock or get the pin measurements to cut another key and write up a counseling statement for the soldier who lost the original key. I kept a pretty good supply of those recessed nuts as I could open a lock with the only damage being on the nut.
Eric Nelson Answering the challenge with "Keys to the city!" in my experience was always good enough. Any good e4 can tell you that everyone knows complacency kills but no one checks anyone who looks like they know what they're doing.
Absolute disgrace that a once Amazing lock got screwed over so badly when masterlock took over. Simply sad :'(
Gotta love a company that practically puts an arrow on their product saying, "Drill here to defeat this lock!"
One year later, I had forgotten about how this exploit worked, so when I went to re-watch it I again had a facepalm moment of "What were they thinking?"
If I want in a place and it's only secured with a padlock, I'm getting in. I don't care what make, brand or type. I've got a 36 volt cordless Metabo and with with a cutting disc I can make short work of any padlock on this planet. If a thief wants to get in all they need to do is get their hands on the right equipment. Locks are only meant to keep honest people honest, after all.
If drilling is involved, most padlocks will be compromised by drilling out the cylinder, since the material is usually brass. I don't see the drain hole as an issue. You can always replace the screw with a grade 8 hex cap screw. I think the size is 8/32.
I think if someone wants to break in....bolt cutter will do the job just fine.....as for the hole, the majority of these locks will never be broken into and the hole prevents an outdoor lock from corroding internally...i prefer the one with the hole... frankly . Thank you for pointing out its possible shortcomings so that we can choose what is best for each situation....
kinda a silly "vulnerability". You can drill there even wo the hole.
paherbst524 but then you have to drill through the hopefully harder shell material without the pilot hole. Master lock is all “we noticed some of you have not been drilling in the easiest spot, ima help you out k?”
A lock is just to keep a honest person honest. Not to keep thiefs out, a thief would just use bolt cutters or batter powered grinder.
Wow! Great observation !
Dude, Bill, I'm impressed by the amount of different intros you've got. Do you have your own production team? ;-)
...I like the lock stuff also!
And having watched the video to the end, I'm now also impressed by the outro *g*
Do you reckon that if you used a drill bit the same size as the integral 'Pilot' hole, that you could weaken the screw enough to pop the core retainer plate off with out leaving any traces of intrusion? Just drill the screw, then pry the retainer plate with a screw-driver or similar implement to shear off the remains of the screw head, dump the core, open the lock, and remove the remains of the old screw (it should thread right back out of the retainer plate since there's no tension on it), and reassemble.
Best outros on RUclips!
To be honest I do not see this as a problem. Use a center punch to mark the center of the nut on the bottom of the lock and drill it out just enough so that the head of the nut falls off. Takes all of 20-30 seconds and you can just put a new nut on the lock when you are done.
Have you tried that?
253637zero2 Tried drilling out the bottom nut? Yes I have. It was very easy and with a $0.25 part I had a fully working lock after I made a key for it.
+bosnianbill and they were nice enough to make the lock body out of a soft metal.
That is a valid point. But if you are going to drill a lock with such a big bit (as showed by the drilled example piece) then why have any caution at all? Why not drill into every lock? Why not cut the lock? You can do this with any lock and not with such a fine bit.
+adam seay Pretty sure the point was that they give you a pilot hole right where you need to drill and that makes it even easier to compromise.
Lmao! I thought you were saying "The Ole SlyFox" 🤣
I see a huge problem there. Case your target ahead of time. Get body color and shackle length of lock to be drilled and install guts from old lock into new lock. Not going to notice anything happened until it's too late
You thanked Master Lock, but it’s originally an American Lock design. Master Lock recently bought out American, so they do own the rights and responsibilities, but I wouldn’t blame them for it.
Only Master Lock :-). Thanks for the Info Bill, now to make sure that none of my friends are using those.
I love watching these videos, even better when he disses the crap outa master lol :) great video m8
I think some new ABUS locks have these drainage holes in the same place, i wonder if they have the same effect? My Abus 88/55 does, one at the bottom and one at the side.
Surely the gubbinment would have to know about this? Why did they even use such locks to begin with? They look *ok* but not “hold my beer cause I’m gonna test the minuteman we’ve had stashed for 40 years”.
Well if you 're gonna destroy it, wouldn't it be easier to cut it with a bolt cutter. It would be more quiet and faster.
This is a weakness, but if you're going to use a drill on a padlock, why bother, just cut the shackle with a bolt cutter...
+Yyunko Some seem to have guarded shackles, although those are only the more expensive ones, that he's show in some videos
drilling might be a bit louder but a drill is a much smaller tool then bolt cutters and every household tends to have one one could also use some type of acid at that point
I don't see that the hole makes the lock any weaker than it already was. A drill is usually not the tool of choice for a thief. Marking the location of the screw head doesn't make it easier for him to use bolt cutters or an angle grinder.
+Timothy Fish But it gives them one more avenue.
Another thought: would it be plausible to use this hole to introduce a mixture of alum and water directly onto the screw, causing the eventual dissolving of the screw? I realize this would be a long term attack on the lock, but I would venture a guess that such a long term attack would be hard to notice.
the end result is the same, the lock would be destroyed in the process, you'd just be trading time saved for lower volume
You can also just break the military locks with a large adjustable wrench and applying pressure to fold it and it just brakes.
I'm fairly taken aback that they are this thoughtless, that being said, I'm sure crooks are too busy using portable angle grinders and bolt cutters to take the time to bother with drilling...
Subscribed, Master keep up, Watching to educate myself about locks :D
Anyone who commented that there’s “no difference if there’s a hole or not”, doesn’t know what a pilot/guide hole is, and shouldn’t be allowed near power tools.
excellent work master! think I'd rather just pay the thief to steal my stuff!
What about replacing the screw with a magnetised hardened allen bolt and then dropping in a ballbearing into the allen bolts head.
It's not like the hole makes it /that/ much easier. Just makes it faster. If you know where to drill, you can just tap with a center punch and work your way up with successive drill bits. Even the best aluminum is no match for a carbide drill bit.
Lol I still can’t get some of them 5200 locks picked. Without any crazy glue in it ha. Some I can get some just kick my ass for some reason
Cool Video & Very Interesting Bill. Nice American Locks By The Way. N.
Interesting. However, with a decent pair of bolt cutters we can "defeat" all those locks in 30 seconds, with no noise, so why would anyone waste their time drilling them???
@masterlock why not make the screw and bottom plate from stainless so it wont rust yes the quality of the lock will justify a few more cents or even dollars to the price.
Masterlock needs to hire you, BILL.
So its easy to defeat with a POWER TOOL. My gosh.
Are the drain holes really needed? Not really as enough water stays in there to rust the spring and retainer screw. Weakness I suppose but it is a destructive bypass.
We locksmiths have been drilling the retainer nut for decades to get American locks open when they can't be picked. I don't see any professional using this to open one.
I know this is an old video but could you lock tight the screw and also fill the hole with some JB weld (or a real weld) to at least make it more difficult?
4:29 Elmer Fudd "Whateva Weason" lol had to
And just think, they could have prevented this by tapping that hole in the body...
Well, those are aluminum bodies correct? So if you were to drill in the same location, even without the hole, couldn't you get in?
+AfterDark3 Yes, obviously. The point again I think was simply that by putting the drain hole exactly where they did, Master Lock created a perfect opportunity for a thief with a small battery operated drill to defeat virtually any ML lock with these drain holes very quickly and easily. They have essentially predrilled a perfectly placed pilot hole for them. The only thing they didn't do was put a label on the lock with an arrow that says, "drill here --->." Who knows, maybe ML will do that next under the guise of thinking they're helping the customer. They could attache a label that says something like, "If your lock fails to open, simply drill here --->
The reason he used a 1/4 in drill bit is to be sure to take the whole screw head off, obviously a criminal can't just replace the screw...
I wonder if they chose the name Master lock because with their locks ANYTHING can be a master key.... 🤔
I have no words for how bad this is for American.
45° angle down might be an easy fix
I've been watching a few of your videos about locks, & keep thinking that the locks do what they were meant to do. That is to say they keep the normal person out of the locked item. I would say, 'keep the honest people honest' but I don't really believer there are many of honest people. It's just that the normal people don't want to take the time or risk to steal, & rightly so. Now with this lock on this video, your not quite being fair, for if you wanted to get in this lock you could just use bolt cutters, or a cut off wheel, or what have you, to be in the locked compartment quicker than drilling a hole. So we must say that 'Master' lock did not really weaken the lock, at most just made another way to compromise it. Another way true, but does it really make it less safe, in that the drilling it out would still be harder than the other ways. :)
Thanks for the videos I do find them real interesting, Singed an 'honest' person.
+VerifyVeracity Yes, I think you're correct, the other methods of destructive entry might work easily as well if not even quicker. I think the point was that with essentially a "pilot hole" already predrilled, it's pretty quick, easy and fairly quiet to come by with a small electric drill and drill out the screw head. It's also a bit easier to conceal a small battery operated drill than it is a bolt cutters. besides with bolt cutters you've got issues on some locks with things like shrouded and/or hardened shackles.
By the way, I agree with you on the concept that locks are largely to keep honest people honest. I've always said that when talking about locks. True thieves with the intent to steal are probably going to get in regardless of what you do. You just need to make it as difficult and time consuming as possible for them so they'll pick an easier/different target.
You're right, locks are meant to keep honest people out. But a strong lock also deters the dishonest folks who aren't looking to steal YOUR stuff specifically, but are rather prowling for easy targets. Master makes easy to defeat locks. Therefore, if you use their products, you're basically putting up a sign that says come rob me.
As consumers, we shouldn't accept security compromises that didn't need to be made. In this case, Master had a perfectly fine lock body design they acquired from American, decided it needed an additional drain hole, and then proceeded to put it in the worst place possible. It was a really dumb decision and I see no problem with poking fun at Master's incompetence.
Seems like there are other faster methods that use less equipment to achieve the same end.
You could use a nuclear weapon to quickly vaporize the lock but why go to the expense and trouble of that when you could just break the lock with a bulldozer?
So I’m not too upset over this hole.
but couldn't you just drill the lock anyway??
I'm guessing that the issue is that you need knowledge of where to drill in order to do it as quickly as possible, but I'm not sure. If you drill too low I'd think you can get the guts to fall out regardless. If you drill too high though, the guts won't fall out. Maybe it's also just easier mechanically to drill through when there's a pilot hole going all the way through. If anyone with more experience could confirm that'd be good.
some locks will have anti drill pins to stop people from doing just that.
@@Ghorda9 they are in the core of the lock. We are talking about drilling at the spot showed in this video, regardless if there's a drain hole or not.
@@ludvigdreng6315 drilling under the shackle wouldn't achieve anything, the shackle is held in place on both sides and the locking mechanism is higher up shielded by the shackle itself.
@@Ghorda9 you could still drill the screw showed in the video away. Isn't it what we are talking about here, or where are you?
I know this is an older video, but I'd like to say that a lot of these american locks are used in manufactures to lock out machinery for maintenance. But if master sells this for protection of consumers' goods, well that's a cheap move on them...
Master lock bought American Lock in 2003, not in 1997, so that is a mistake on the part of American Lock, though yes, Master Lock does make a lot of mistakes... so it seems.
We used those holes to spray WD-40 in them so they wouldn't rust.
So what lock should I purchase?
+Calvin Johnson ABUS Granit, Abloy or Anchor with Abloy Core are my picks for locks from both experience and watching some of these videos. However I'd stay away from the simpler ABUS variants.
OK Bill. We all know you HATE Master Lock. But, a person could do that with every brand of lock made of the same material. Sure, Master Lock has that hole lined up in just the right spot for that nut but why drill such a large hole?
You could accomplish the same result with a smaller hole if you drilled just an inch or so up from the bottom of the lock vertically even with the screw/rivet and drill through a smaller diameter object.
In fact, you could drill it, open it, replace the screw (or rivet with a screw) then plug the hole with a piece of Aluminum. All said and done, you would have a usable lock and many people would never even notice.
guess what! i discovered this when i put together my abus and forgot the cam. couldnt bypass it so i just drilled that hole. didnt take me long and hard to comeup with this.you might just vibrate the screw loose like i did and it fell out. lock has a shitty brass body anyway
,master lock is all about customer service. They don't want you to locked out of your own stuff.
Would this work on a steel body lock with the same pilot hole?
My set of american locks have this...
with a hard enough bit, I imagine it would... Just thinking of the mechanics of it.
They need to hire you, not sue. haha
If they hired him, master lock would actually make a good lock and we wouldn't be able to laugh at them in the same way.
+MOO Tech no... if they hired him they would have to pay him :D
"Only Masterlock, only Masterlock..."
if you're going to drill a hole, you might ass well use a plasma cutter.
2lb ball-peen hammer- master key where the lock was against something solid
well.. no thief will bring a drill for such... it is more convenient to bring a bolt cutter which will work too and can cut that shit in 2 sec.
I've been subbed to Aeriel werks since literally 4 subs hahaha
Guys, does master lock even test there product before they unleash it on the populace.
If you're going to destroy the lock anyway why not just cut it off.
But you could've just drilled through it anyway? If they are all aluminium bodied you wouldn't even need a punch let alone a pilot hole.
Can you assemble a series 1305? I have all the parts but am having a hard time putting it all together. I could pay of course. Let me know, thanks!
Mario, by the time you paid postage back and forth you could buy a brand new lock! They aren't that difficult, you can figure it out if you put your mind to it. There are many videos on RUclips showing disassembly, take a few minutes and watch a couple.
@@bosnianbill I understand, thank you for your time and the video!
@@bosnianbill I ordered new actuator, new cylinder that came with two new keys, new security screw and lock plate. Figured it all out and it works like new. Yes I spent about $20.00 but I was happy to bring back this old lock to life. Again many thanks, your videos help.
15 dislikes are from Master Lock executives.
Your lock is from 1997, Master did not buy American til 2003. Not their fault!
but they kept the design for about 16 years so good buy ML
+duvg1 12 years *
Wow, even I could do that. It's made this lock accessible to any Tom, Dick or Harry with a cheapo hammer drill
Why do you need a hammer drill? Hammer drills are for concrete, not metal.
Hey man your indeed correct. My brain wasn't in gear when I made that comment.
I put oil in that drain holr
How do you decode the MFG date?
bosnianbill THANK YOU!
Bad design not surprised coming from master lock, but still easier and much quicker to cut the shackle.
Wouldnt it be easier to just use bolt cutters?
more people have drills, and aluminum and soft steel is not as hard as the shackle is