Very nice , (as a retired electrician) I would recommend providing a cover for the generator plug when not in use. That would give me a little piece of mind. It's just weird to see the exposed prongs like that.
Received my EZ Generator switch yesterday and followed the instructions to a 'T' and no issues. Very easy to install. The ONLY issue I had was finding the wires to the furnace and then pulling them out. I'm assuming this was one of the first wires put in because it was behind a lot of other wires but took my time to make sure I had the right wires. Thanks for the video.
Ordered 2 and installed them today. First one took about 15 minutes and second one was done in about 7 . I must say amazing product and this makes the usage of my generator such a breeze. Thank you for such easy to DYI solution !
I really like this device, I see that a lot of you are concerned about backfeeding, I was too until I looked more closely at the wiring. The breaker feeds the switch, so as long as the switch is in the generator position it is isolated from the breaker that is feeding it so its not possible to backfeed into the panel. I agree with REPO that it would be more beneficial to power more than one circuit but if you are just looking for an inexpensive way to power just a few lights or a furnace then this is the way to go. If you want to power more things then it would be best to invest in a complete backup system. I do electrical work and I am very interested in offering this device to my customers that have a small portable generator that they want to use for emergencies. Its simple and affordable. Thanks Kevin, this is a great device!
Hmm OK I just purchased a WH 9500FD I believe and I also believe it's capable of running several house hold devices and or appliances, My exterior main is completely full, no room for any extra breakers thus no lock-out plate for the main, am I to gather that if I were to use this switch shown in the video it would be my solution, I would not need an extra slot for breaker and would not have to worry about power being restored while I am in generator position with generator running? Is that switch only powering just that one breaker, the breaker you've connected it to and not the whole panel?
@@Babyboomer_59it just switches the load from one breaker. If you need multiple circuits switched, you would need multiple r transfer switches, or a larger unit designed to handle multiple circuits. Those devices move the breaker function to the external switch for those circuits, freeing breaker slots, as well.
We had an 8 day power failure a couple weeks ago, and I didn't have a way to power the effluent pump in my septic system. It only runs every few days, but it is a critical item. I got the EZ Gen switch and installed it today. Tested it out and it works great! I'm very happy with the quality, and ease of installation.
I appreciate the video. Basically i am looking to power up my furnace and a few lights as well. My generator is only 3750 watts so naturally i am limited. This looks to be exactly what i have been looking for.
Randall, 3750 will handle quite a bit. A simple trick to get more from your generator is to rotate loads. Such as start the furnace bring the room temp up then lower the T stat. You can do this with the refrigerator also bring down the temp get things cold and rotate to another load. Your 3750 will handle furnace, lights and refrigerator without alternating the loads. Another item is change all lighting to Led one sixth the load with the same lumens.
What do you mean ROTATE to an other load? There is only (1) Load circuit connected, in your video example -- to energize a different circuit, you would have to rewire your switch to another load. Please clarify: ROTATE?
I guess that would be your opion, this is the least expensive way to provide power to 1, 2, 3 or 4 items. After 4 items the cost is best spend on a 6 circuit unit.We have customers who have spent $65 on a switch and $300 on a generator and they have heat. When you have nothing and your about to freeze a pipe and your butt off trust me $65 dollars works big time!
@@melvoquiros4388 I noticed my oil burner on 20 amp circuit draws 25 amps for half a second, then drops a lot . I bet this switch couldn't handle it that short term startup demand.
@@EZgeneratorswitch motors take 6 times their running current to start, so if a motor actually took 25 amps to start it runs on a little over 4 amps. normal circuit breakers are built to hold six times their rating to start a motor so no problem here.
@@rrrrkoop2776 let's clear this up a little. Motors don't take 6x to start. Safely we can say double but circuit breakers get relief quick because the curve drops off quick. There are different types of circuit breakers. Our is thermal so it takes even longer.
This is nice for one circuit to get a normal extension chord from your generator to this device. However, for most people, a simple and inexpensive "interlock" installed on your main panel allows you to safely toggle between "line" incoming power and "generator" incoming power....and once you install this....allows you choose any number and combination of branch circuits to be powered from your generator....of course limited to the power available from the generator. For a lot of people, there is more than 1 critical circuit to be powered during a power outage. For most it's the refrigerator....but like here may also be a furnace or well pump, etc. An interlock is MUCH less expensive than a transfer switch system, and it allows you to choose any branch circuit in your box during an outage ( or series of circuits that don't overload your generator)...such that you don't hav to pre-choose the one (or more) circuits ahed of time. Transfer switches are $300 or more and interlocks can be had for as little as $40 ( plus the cost of a double-pole 30A breaker...about $10). Yes....you will also need an "inlet box" ($50) and a heavy duty 240V chord to connect up to your generator ( $90).
Interlocks are not $40 dollars, sq D, siemans and alike start at $60. What you failed to explain is you now need a 30/40/50 or even a 60 amp line installed to the outside of your home. This alone will cost you $400 from any licensed /insured electrician. You also need the 2 pole breaker. Most important is your generator needs to handle the load based on wire size. 30 amps needs a 7200 watt green set, 40 amp requires 9600 watts and up from there... Nothing user friendly. We don't compete with that set up. Many of our customers use 2000watt fuel efficient gen sets and operate heat, refrig, lights. They do the install themselves because of the ease of our product. Worse case 3 units with discounts we provide is just over 200. We are on different ends of the spectrum.
@@EZgeneratorswitch I paid $46 for my Square D interlock kit back in 2012. Another $60 for the inlet. 50a breaker was another $25. 6 gauge cable, $200. The EZ generator switch is a great solution for a gas furnace or sump pump. I almost bought one for my furnace, but chose a different route.
Dave Taylor if you don't understand something ask. We are not trying to energize electric heat this is a single circuit transfer switch UL and CSA approved. It is designed for and essential circuits such as lights, power, heating systems
Great video. Good for one appliance. Now what I would love is that there is a generator plug with load splitter and then bunch of generator / grid switches attached like this. You could chose which loads you want to bring on or not.
Yes, it's a single circuit transfer switch designed for the least expensive way to connect essential circuit. What you need is a whole house transfer switch
My code does not allow wire nuts in the panel. = Panel cannot serve as a junction box. The furnace feed (load cable) and the furnace feed from the panel would have to be joined in the auxillary box, not in the breaker panel.
I installed this switch several years ago for the furnace, added an additional outlet downstream of the TS It runs the sump pump and some lighting. Ran a permanent heavy-duty extension cord to the TS. Now it is only a matter of starting the generator. I keep a small amount of engineered fuel in the tank and after a few miniutes of warmup, I fill the tank.
@@chris8383 After installing the EZ TS into the breaker for the furnace and ensuring that it worked, I extended the TS-controlled furnace input into a duplex receptacle. The sump pump that is normally connected to its own breaker is then connected to this receptacle and runs from the generator supply. The gas furnace draw is low and the system can accept both motors starting simultaneously
let me help you Arnold. The switch was designed and patented so that essential circuits can be energized during a power outage for the most cost-effective number . This also allows for a very small generator that is more user friendly to energize those circuits. In addition transfer switches that are UL approved and CSA approved such as ours do not back feed so you will never hurt a lineman out on the street. Secondly the wire size is rated by the National Electrical Code which is also regulated by UL. All switches are tested with 1200 volts before leaving the factory per UL regulations... if you would like to discuss any further information about our switch or be better informed we will be happy to help you.
My biggest thing is making sure I have heat during the winter power outage. Heat, I can tolerate a little more. But VERY cold winters? Not so much. This video surely does help. If I can power the heat (including the water heater), fridge/freezer and stove, then I'm happy. Not having a TV or the lights on is not the end of the world to me.
Replace the wire connecting your furnace to it's fused disconnect switch with an appropriately-rated receptacle connected to the fuse and a mating cord with the same wire gauge as the original wiring connected to the furnace. When the power goes out, plug the furnace cord into a 10 or 12 gauge extension cord run out to a generator 20 or more feet away from the home and in a place where exhaust blows away from your home and any neighbors' homes.
EZ Generator Switch how many circuits can be ran with one box and how many boxes can you run on one panel....is this restricted to residential or can it be used in commercial applications
Steve, please look up NEC Article 400.8-your suggestion is unsafe per Code. You can not, again per Code, use cord in place of permanent wiring in this installation regardless of wire gauge.
In a power outage situation where I live if I can keep the heat on and the fridge cold that's all I really need anything else is a nice to have. I purchased two of these switches to run my furnace and fridge during a power outage in the winter, and my fridge in the summer. The switch is of high quality with easy to understand instructions and most import it is certified, unlike some if not all switches from overseas. I highly recommend this switch.
This is a single circuit transfer switch dedicated to a essential circuit during a power outage. It will not backfeed, it is approved with labels to sell in USA and Canada. It will not run your whole house, you would need a transfer switch rated for the whole house. There are no shortcuts with transfer switches , what they are rated for is what they can handle... please don't hesitate to ask us for help if you have questions.
Have two 4000/3500 Champion portable generators here in California where hardly a year goes by without an extensive power outage. They are great. Electric start is really handy, but neither has failed to start on first pull of pull-starter. With them I keep two refrigerators and lights going. They are quiet and do not bother neighbors California-close on both sides. Couldn't be happier with them.
My question is, when the power comes back on and the generator is already running and charging the breakers, won't that cause damage to the breakers or cause an overload?
@canuckguy worried it is a simple thing to understand. However, to attack a person that doesn't understand and asks a question shows you to be more of an uneducated idiot than the person asking the question.
@@tankscrittersandurbanhomes5579 that type of attitude causes people to not ask questions, for fear they'll be laughed at, by others (who probably don't know the answer either), but didn't ask the question themselves .
I really want to try one of these with my 2000Wh bluetti!! To run my furnace!! I would think it would work?? The bluetti can do 1000w continuous.. not sure about the amps tho?? It can run my bandsaw.. ha!!
This looks like a great solution for us, even buying three to run heat, refrigerator and some lights, would be half the price of the smallest transfer switching system for a bonded neutral generator.
Something to keep in mind in the case that this is not a dummy panel; those big wires at the top are still electrified even with the main switch in this panel open or off. Scary seeing you stick your fingers in there beside them without any cover. A combined main panel should have two covers, one for the distribution panel and one for the main disconnect.
Here is your answer. The switch can be placed any where that is convenient for the user to connect their generator. Next... Interlock is not needed, not required and is not code. Tested approved switches do not back feed.
No back feeding, no turning off any of your breakers. You NEVER need to touch anything just plug into the unit and throw the switch to the generator position when your power resumes shut down your generator unplug and place into Normal mode...many customers use it for lights, outlets, heat just to name a few. It contains a resettable 15 amp breaker that can be placed on a 15 or 20 amp circuit. Our 15 amp breaker will protect the device and load.
I like the concept, and get why you don't need to worry about back-feeding, because the generator switch is isolating the load for that circuit. In normal mode, the load is fed directly from the panel; when you switch to generator mode, the circuit is isolated from the panel, and then fed from the generator inlet. No way to backfeed, and it seems to be an easier solution for the average homeowner than an interlock, or transfer switch for a small application. Looks like it would work great for something like a gas or oil furnace/hot water heater that only requires 120v.
Yes Dedicated single circuit transfer switch for essential circuits. This is the least expensive way to get essential circuit energized. We don't compete with systems that energize 6-10 circuits. Using our switches allow use of more user friendly generators. Smaller , more efficient on fuel, ease of use. The extremely low cost of our switch allows you not to spend a fortune waiting for the lights to go out!
Got three of these installed that I’m using right now. One for the fridge, one for heat, one for a circuit with lights and outlets. All powered with just a 2500 watt inverter generator. They’re working great!
So you run three different cords to three separate switches to power three. Separate loads furnace lights and fridge is that correct how does that work out can you show me or explain why three separate ones the whole thing just seems crazy to me I'd want to run one cord number ten or 8 wire say to power my loads with one cord not three no ?
@@glennmanchester5696 The short answer is my generator didn't have a 30 amp or 50 amp plugs, just 15 amp 120 volt outlets. I already had the extension cords, so this was the easiest/lowest cost solution for me. We rarely lose power so running three cords is no big deal, I just feed them through a basement window. But yeah, if we lost power more often, or I had a bigger generator, I would probably just do an interlock switch with a single 50 amp plug connector.
The last home I looked at where they wanted to heat their home off of a generator during power outage, the gas furnance had a male cord end plugged into a standard recepticle. I told them to just use an extension cord direct from the generator. Since most home owners panels are recessed in a sheetrock wall, I find it easier to install a recepticle next to the furnace and put a male cord on the unit.
Help me out... my main breaker box has no main breaker so how is there no back feed? Seems like if I'm charging the panel, I'm charging the whole line to include back feed.
@@paulwenzl1711 you have a main somewhere. But that has zero to do with back feeding! First any transfer switch with a label such as intertek or ul will not backfeed period. That's the safety net you should be looking for.. A label. Are you using our switch?
@@paulwenzl1711 a approved transfer switch is connected as follows... Both electrically and mechanically. The switch is physically connecting the load(could be the whole house or portions there of) to the generator. Or.... The load to the street it can't cross over physically. Picture a Y... House is connected to the bottom. Gen set left... Street right. When you go left or right it physically breaks the other leg... So you can't backfeed.
You have the utility supply turned off and isolated, that’s great...no back feed on the hits...but your neutral is still connected from your furnace, to the panel-neutral bar and then out to the street......all unbalanced loads will still be flowing out to the transformer at the street. In a power outage, the utility will be working on the lines and transformers.....your sending dangerous back feeds on the neutral where they are working. You need to have a 3 pole isolation switch. Isolating your generator power and the neutrals. Any comments? Or am I missing something?
I was taught that what you did at 5:45 with the wires before installing the wire nut is not a good procedure, You should just align the wires with their tips even and twist on the wire nuts letting them do the twisting together of the wires for a good solid connection.
That's the way the younger guys are told to do. Tell me how twisting the wires together with the pliers like it used to be done causes harm. I talked about this on a job recently with the young buck sparks and he told me the same as you? His explanation was modern nuts twisted the wire fine but he was a fan of stabbing wires in too??
@@KaiatheSiberianHusky it's like when somebody says: you get it, don't you? and you nod your head-a-ha,a-ha, but if they asked you to explain it, you'd be lost.
@@ginpok6640 human error is the most common reason for things going wrong. That should be something automatic to where you don't have to trust somebody's memory.
I installed a dual circuit transfer switch in my home.... all lightbulbs in my house are LEDs. I can run ALL my lights, my furnace and my home theater system off a 2000 watt generator. Tested the load with a kill-a-watt meter, and still have about four to five hundred watts to spare. LED light bulbs TREMENDOUSLY help reduce the size of the generator needed. You can use about 8 LED bulbs in place of the load of ONE 100 watt incandescent bulb.
I've been out of the electrical business for a few code cycles now, but it used to be volition to use the main panel for a junction box or pull thru? By moving your furnace feed wire to the green switch box you would then be in compliance.
Not bad....Many of these switch are very expensive and compicated to install, I would be happy to have heat, refer, tv and a few lights and I would be very happy.
Why do you need one for the fridge, since the fridge already has a plug that you can just unplug and then plug into the extension cord from the generator?
@@jpmacoo Many people like myself have fridge alcoves and it's a pain in the rear to pull a large fridge out of the alcove far enough to get to it's plug.
I think most are confused thinking this device will power everything on the breaker, and not just the furnace. Assuming I'm right, this scenario the generator is only powering the furnace.
Wrong...its done under amperage. Refrigs no problem, sump pumps, lights, furnaces 120 volt items. Heat pumps are electric heat and run 240 volts so that would not work
@@EZgeneratorswitch So are you saying if a few things were running from one circuit breaker, those can all be set up to one EZ Generator Switch as long as they are within the amperage?
Rydrdg you should check out the website. Lots of info 4u., plus other you tube videos. We manufacture a single circuit dedicated transfer switch for essential loads you need during an outage.
You will be fine, there is no configuration or procedure that will change the safety implementation of the product. We have a procedure for energizing and disconnecting we like you to follow.
Its really simple guys. Power from utility feeds into the box and THEN to the circuit of your choice. When you flip the switch it disconnects the circuit from the utility and allows the feed from the generator. It will not back feed.
@@thelakeman5207 it's not a point of frying those little wires because it's the same gauge as a well line 20 amps. The difference is 240 volts not 120v
Could you post a video wiring up a GFCI breaker? Most breakers nowadays are GFCI, and the neutral wire is handled differently. I realize that furnace breakers often don't have or require GFCI breakers because they have no external plug, but if one wants to use the switch on another circuit, such as a refrigerator or bedroom circuit, that would likely have a GFCI breaker.
i installed an 4 EZ generator switch . very easy. in stalled 4 of them for a customer that had 4 apartments. to keep there heat on in a power outage. thanks i will be going to other customer with apartments thank you very much petrusewicz Electrical.
I noticed you did not install the ground bar for the ground bare wires and you put the ground wires to the neutral bar and it should be on the ground bar. The neutral bar and the ground bar should be kept separate. That is the way I was taught. The neutral bar is grounded to the ground rods in the ground, then it's ok to do it that way.
That only applies if you are wiring another panel/sub panel. Then, you would need separate grounds and neutrals. Anything downstream of the first method of disconnect would be unbonded.
It's out there, yesterday the wife was watching some show and when I walked through to the kitchen I heard; with augmentation you get a free nipple relocation. I didn't even ask.
When you are 13 , the hormones control your thoughts. they even giggle when the teacher uses the word BUT. It is what you expect of children. DO NOT expect anything that resembles maturity.
Actually heat is the most important, pipes freeze and cause big damage. Staying warm is paramount. The issue with 240 volts is there are 2 different configurations so matching who has what becomes a problem. Worse yet... Where do you buy a 240 UL approved cord? We would love to solve everyone's power issues but we concentrate on the simple things like traffic lights, solar, essential home circuits like heat, refrigerator, lights, sump pumps. Thank you for your input. We have the greatest customers!
I had the same question. Here's what I'm seeing.. When the generator is connected and If the main panel breaker isn't turned off then it will back feed through one of the 120 volt legs.
Then there's more to this little device than I imagined. With an adequate generator it simply powers up one 15 amp breaker to service whatever is on that line.
Transfer switches that are UL & CSA approved/tested don't backfeed. There is no possible connection to the grid from the generator. Only house to generator and House to grid.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit. Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install. I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
Good stuff! Looks like a nice product. Thought i would mention to check with local codes. Its against code in my area to use the combination panel as a junction point. I would need to relocate the furnace romex cable to square junction box and make connections behind the EZ Gen switch. This leaves only the line side wires and ground to terminate inside the panel with no connections.
Does the switch have a 'center off' rocker switch position to turn the furnace off and disconnect it from the line? This would not be done during a power outage. I thought I heard a click at center off. I understand that no cord to the plug from the generator would not be a powered line and do the same thing, break the black hot line.
All transfer switches with a UL have a center off. The requirements are break before make and that is done with center off. There is no power on the cord unless you are running your generator.
So explain to me how when you energize your switch and feed the panel you are not back feeding back onto the line? Are you relying on the homeowner to open his main? I promise you…. You send 120 volts back through your service wire you WILL have primary voltage on the line after it goes through a transformer. Good linemen are killed every year from this scenario. It’s a cool idea for feeding one load……just need assurances that safety is a consideration.
My generator has a floating neutral. The panel I'll install it to is a properly bonded main panel. As described in this video, will the switch bond the neutral to the ground for me? I couldn't find any documentation on your site for installation.
Two questions: So you product only supplies power to the furnish...correct? How do you tell when the power grid comes back on?...when the rest of the lights in the house come on? Sorry that wasn't made clear in your video. Thanks
Switch transfers load for what ever breaker you connect it to... When the lights come back on pull your extension cord out shut down your generator and place switch back in the normal position.
Thanks for sharing info about your product. It is simple for cases where one only circuit is needed. This is basically a simplified transfer switch and the external plug combined
Thank you! Lots of uses some we never counted on like traffic lights , gates in remote areas of western states for road closing not to mention lights,refrig and sump pumps.
Will this run all your appliances of course one at a time . Do you have to install a separate box to run each appliance, for instance if you connect this box to your heater breaker will that energize your whole buss so you can manually turn one thing at a time.
+TheQdoggerShow . We manufacture a SINGLE circuit transfers switch. It is dedicated to a specific circuit for essential items needed during an outage. Some customers want their heat, some want their refrig, lights, sump pump and so on. A "whole House" transfer switch is most likely rated at 200 amps and the switch itself with no installation cost around $400
Can I replace a furnace on/off single gang switch box with this box, which is a double gang size? I would need to mount it to a vertical stud. Are those side holes enough to support the enclosure? My goal is to mount it flush with the drywall.
Yes from the generator to the switch. There are 5 different configurations for 220V outlets. So first we would have to know which “outlet configuration” your generator had ….then build a cord to match it and then it would also have to match the inlet in our switch! The cost would get prohibitive
I am concerned about the "button breaker" in this device. I'm sure it's UL 489 certified but I don't know if I'd trust it with one of my branch circuits. Do you have another model with a full size breaker?
So you have 1 110 line and only a furnace powered ? The house breaker box has 2 110 bars the breakers mount on that are separate fed so you can power 220 volt things like an electric dryer. Can it be hooked up for 220 or to one of the power bars or jumped to both without using 220 volt and the 220 breaker off OR would that require another breaker box and a switch that kept grid and generator power from operating at once ? Like if you wish to power a fridge, lights , computer, TV and a few outlets depending on your generator output of course. Would 2 generators be able to power each 110 bar in the homes breaker box with 2 switches and have a similar breaker box with the same number and amp rating of breakers in your home with proper output generators ?
Brian good questions. Let's start here. We manufacture a single circuit transfer switch dedicated to essential circuits needed during an outage. If you wanted to energize multiple circuits you would need a 240 volt transfer switch RATED for the entire panel or load you wanted to transfer. In other words if your panel is 200 amps the switch needs to be 200 amp. There are NO Shortcuts. No cheap way, no bearing the system. Our price is I expensive because of it size and capability....Single circuit. We are the least expensive way to connect a essential circuit. That is what it was designed and patented for. In addition once you want to energize multiple circuits your generator increases in size matching your load. Our load would be small therefore your generator can be small also. Appreciate your questions
On multiple bad winters in Oklahoma the area I live in we lose power for no less than 2 to 3 weeks at a time. It is miserable! Finally able to purchase a generator now need to find the money to install the switch
Since you are connecting to 120v breaker, won't you only be powering half of the panel? Half of the breakers normally run on one phase and the other half run on the other phase. Or am I missing the whole point? It looks as though you are only powering the furnace through the switch?
But I noticed it didn’t have a 4 prong 220 for the generator can I still use that if I want to run gas heat refrigerator some lights and a few flat screen TV’s? My hot water tank is also gas as my stove but it has to have power to turn on oven.
Single circuit transfer switch not a whole house transfer switch. There are no shortcuts, you need a whole house transfer switch. Generator needs to be capable of handling the load you want.
So, do you mean that you can only hook up one item per switch? I'm buying a Honda 7000 and want to have my furnace, deep freezer, refrigerator, some lights, and computer hooked up. I have a propane stove so I can use the cook top and light manually but the oven is electronic so it would need hooked in too, although it just gets plugged into a regular outlet.
Look at a 10 circuit transfer switch.. with installation it should run around $800 ...depending on how far the electrician will need to run the feed for that panel. We are at the opposite end of the spectrum for $80 bucks
Thanks ez generator for a simple product. Put one in a couple months ago before winter and its a perfect solution in case of a freezing rain storm that we get here in the Midwest. Works perfectly.
Question is....you have a fridge hooked up....you don't unplug when power is restored....is there a back feed trip reset or someway that will prevent the generator from a back feed overload ??
I'm confused. Is this switch just for one breaker? For example, in this video just for the furnace? Or.. can it be hooked up to send generator power to multiple essential breakers? I may want the furnace, lights, tv, etc, on one generator switch.
What if you don't have a furnace? You want to hook up the other as lights or fridge or dryer or washer or freezer? Or hot water heater? How would that go?
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Very nice , (as a retired electrician) I would recommend providing a cover for the generator plug when not in use. That would give me a little piece of mind. It's just weird to see the exposed prongs like that.
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Received my EZ Generator switch yesterday and followed the instructions to a 'T' and no issues. Very easy to install. The ONLY issue I had was finding the wires to the furnace and then pulling them out. I'm assuming this was one of the first wires put in because it was behind a lot of other wires but took my time to make sure I had the right wires. Thanks for the video.
Looks easy to do have to do mine
Ordered 2 and installed them today. First one took about 15 minutes and second one was done in about 7 . I must say amazing product and this makes the usage of my generator such a breeze. Thank you for such easy to DYI solution !
Ha ha thank you
I really like this device, I see that a lot of you are concerned about backfeeding, I was too until I looked more closely at the wiring. The breaker feeds the switch, so as long as the switch is in the generator position it is isolated from the breaker that is feeding it so its not possible to backfeed into the panel. I agree with REPO that it would be more beneficial to power more than one circuit but if you are just looking for an inexpensive way to power just a few lights or a furnace then this is the way to go. If you want to power more things then it would be best to invest in a complete backup system. I do electrical work and I am very interested in offering this device to my customers that have a small portable generator that they want to use for emergencies. Its simple and affordable. Thanks Kevin, this is a great device!
Yes, the switch is DPDT which disconnects utility power and then connects the generator inlet to load.
Hmm OK I just purchased a WH 9500FD I believe and I also believe it's capable of running several house hold devices and or appliances, My exterior main is completely full, no room for any extra breakers thus no lock-out plate for the main, am I to gather that if I were to use this switch shown in the video it would be my solution, I would not need an extra slot for breaker and would not have to worry about power being restored while I am in generator position with generator running?
Is that switch only powering just that one breaker, the breaker you've connected it to and not the whole panel?
@@Babyboomer_59it just switches the load from one breaker. If you need multiple circuits switched, you would need multiple r transfer switches, or a larger unit designed to handle multiple circuits. Those devices move the breaker function to the external switch for those circuits, freeing breaker slots, as well.
We had an 8 day power failure a couple weeks ago, and I didn't have a way to power the effluent pump in my septic system. It only runs every few days, but it is a critical item. I got the EZ Gen switch and installed it today. Tested it out and it works great! I'm very happy with the quality, and ease of installation.
Man oh man is that critical. Discovered that the hard way
We had on in Houston as well, I hate this heat!
I appreciate the video. Basically i am looking to power up my furnace and a few lights as well. My generator is only 3750 watts so naturally i am limited. This looks to be exactly what i have been looking for.
Randall, 3750 will handle quite a bit. A simple trick to get more from your generator is to rotate loads. Such as start the furnace bring the room temp up then lower the T stat. You can do this with the refrigerator also bring down the temp get things cold and rotate to another load. Your 3750 will handle furnace, lights and refrigerator without alternating the loads. Another item is change all lighting to Led one sixth the load with the same lumens.
What do you mean ROTATE to an other load? There is only (1) Load circuit connected, in your video example -- to energize a different circuit, you would have to rewire your switch to another load. Please clarify: ROTATE?
@@robyounce4636 you wire a few of these to separate circuits, then turn them on and off as you require.
Things like lights and fridges you can just plug into your extension cord. So unplug your furnace- then plug the extension cord into the fridge. etc.
I found this to be a good video for people with no experience in electrical. You took all the guess work out and made it easy for them.
I thank u very much, that's how u learn, and once u learn, u got it, thanks.
I guess that would be your opion, this is the least expensive way to provide power to 1, 2, 3 or 4 items. After 4 items the cost is best spend on a 6 circuit unit.We have customers who have spent $65 on a switch and $300 on a generator and they have heat. When you have nothing and your about to freeze a pipe and your butt off trust me $65 dollars works big time!
Can I install this for my oil boiler but my oil boiler breaker is 20amp and this is only 15amp.?
@@melvoquiros4388 I noticed my oil burner on 20 amp circuit draws 25 amps for half a second, then drops a lot . I bet this switch couldn't handle it that short term startup demand.
@@stevemurray710 yes it would because it's a thermal breaker. In addition you may want to check your motor.
@@EZgeneratorswitch motors take 6 times their running current to start, so if a motor actually took 25 amps to start it runs on a little over 4 amps. normal circuit breakers are built to hold six times their rating to start a motor so no problem here.
@@rrrrkoop2776 let's clear this up a little. Motors don't take 6x to start. Safely we can say double but circuit breakers get relief quick because the curve drops off quick. There are different types of circuit breakers. Our is thermal so it takes even longer.
This is nice for one circuit to get a normal extension chord from your generator to this device. However, for most people, a simple and inexpensive "interlock" installed on your main panel allows you to safely toggle between "line" incoming power and "generator" incoming power....and once you install this....allows you choose any number and combination of branch circuits to be powered from your generator....of course limited to the power available from the generator. For a lot of people, there is more than 1 critical circuit to be powered during a power outage. For most it's the refrigerator....but like here may also be a furnace or well pump, etc. An interlock is MUCH less expensive than a transfer switch system, and it allows you to choose any branch circuit in your box during an outage ( or series of circuits that don't overload your generator)...such that you don't hav to pre-choose the one (or more) circuits ahed of time. Transfer switches are $300 or more and interlocks can be had for as little as $40 ( plus the cost of a double-pole 30A breaker...about $10). Yes....you will also need an "inlet box" ($50) and a heavy duty 240V chord to connect up to your generator ( $90).
Interlocks are not $40 dollars, sq D, siemans and alike start at $60. What you failed to explain is you now need a 30/40/50 or even a 60 amp line installed to the outside of your home. This alone will cost you $400 from any licensed /insured electrician. You also need the 2 pole breaker. Most important is your generator needs to handle the load based on wire size. 30 amps needs a 7200 watt green set, 40 amp requires 9600 watts and up from there... Nothing user friendly. We don't compete with that set up. Many of our customers use 2000watt fuel efficient gen sets and operate heat, refrig, lights. They do the install themselves because of the ease of our product. Worse case 3 units with discounts we provide is just over 200. We are on different ends of the spectrum.
@@EZgeneratorswitch I paid $46 for my Square D interlock kit back in 2012. Another $60 for the inlet. 50a breaker was another $25. 6 gauge cable, $200.
The EZ generator switch is a great solution for a gas furnace or sump pump. I almost bought one for my furnace, but chose a different route.
Dave Taylor if you don't understand something ask. We are not trying to energize electric heat this is a single circuit transfer switch UL and CSA approved. It is designed for and essential circuits such as lights, power, heating systems
Great video. Good for one appliance. Now what I would love is that there is a generator plug with load splitter and then bunch of generator / grid switches attached like this. You could chose which loads you want to bring on or not.
Yes, it's a single circuit transfer switch designed for the least expensive way to connect essential circuit. What you need is a whole house transfer switch
Nathan... You need to check the NEC splices can be! In a panel
Correct. What do they think happens when you do a panel (service) upgrade. You splice inside of the panel.
My code does not allow wire nuts in the panel. = Panel cannot serve as a junction box. The furnace feed (load cable) and the furnace feed from the panel would have to be joined in the auxillary box, not in the breaker panel.
@@francoistombe where do you live?
British Columbia.
I installed this switch several years ago for the furnace, added an additional outlet downstream of the TS It runs the sump pump and some lighting. Ran a permanent heavy-duty extension cord to the TS. Now it is only a matter of starting the generator. I keep a small amount of engineered fuel in the tank and after a few miniutes of warmup, I fill the tank.
Can you describe the downstream outlet install?
@@chris8383 After installing the EZ TS into the breaker for the furnace and ensuring that it worked, I extended the TS-controlled furnace input into a duplex receptacle. The sump pump that is normally connected to its own breaker is then connected to this receptacle and runs from the generator supply. The gas furnace draw is low and the system can accept both motors starting simultaneously
let me help you Arnold. The switch was designed and patented so that essential circuits can be energized during a power outage for the most cost-effective number . This also allows for a very small generator that is more user friendly to energize those circuits. In addition transfer switches that are UL approved and CSA approved such as ours do not back feed so you will never hurt a lineman out on the street. Secondly the wire size is rated by the National Electrical Code which is also regulated by UL. All switches are tested with 1200 volts before leaving the factory per UL regulations... if you would like to discuss any further information about our switch or be better informed we will be happy to help you.
My biggest thing is making sure I have heat during the winter power outage. Heat, I can tolerate a little more. But VERY cold winters? Not so much. This video surely does help. If I can power the heat (including the water heater), fridge/freezer and stove, then I'm happy. Not having a TV or the lights on is not the end of the world to me.
Replace the wire connecting your furnace to it's fused disconnect switch with an appropriately-rated receptacle connected to the fuse and a mating cord with the same wire gauge as the original wiring connected to the furnace.
When the power goes out, plug the furnace cord into a 10 or 12 gauge extension cord run out to a generator 20 or more feet away from the home and in a place where exhaust blows away from your home and any neighbors' homes.
Steve B a
EZ Generator Switch how many circuits can be ran with one box and how many boxes can you run on one panel....is this restricted to residential or can it be used in commercial applications
Steve, please look up NEC Article 400.8-your suggestion is unsafe per Code. You can not, again per Code, use cord in place of permanent wiring in this installation regardless of wire gauge.
In a power outage situation where I live if I can keep the heat on and the fridge cold that's all I really need anything else is a nice to have. I purchased two of these switches to run my furnace and fridge during a power outage in the winter, and my fridge in the summer. The switch is of high quality with easy to understand instructions and most import it is certified, unlike some if not all switches from overseas. I highly recommend this switch.
Any transfer switch that has been tested thru UL or equivalent doesn't back feed and there is no need to touch any breakers.
can this be installed on the outide of the house?
This is a single circuit transfer switch dedicated to a essential circuit during a power outage. It will not backfeed, it is approved with labels to sell in USA and Canada. It will not run your whole house, you would need a transfer switch rated for the whole house. There are no shortcuts with transfer switches , what they are rated for is what they can handle... please don't hesitate to ask us for help if you have questions.
I am an Electrical Contractor, That is a great and SAFE alternative for people on a low budget . Thanks for that video...
Have two 4000/3500 Champion portable generators here in California where hardly a year goes by without an extensive power outage. They are great. Electric start is really handy, but neither has failed to start on first pull of pull-starter. With them I keep two refrigerators and lights going. They are quiet and do not bother neighbors California-close on both sides. Couldn't be happier with them.
My question is, when the power comes back on and the generator is already running and
charging the breakers, won't that cause damage to the breakers or cause an overload?
Good chance of blowing up your generator too...
@canuckguy worried it is a simple thing to understand. However, to attack a person that doesn't understand and asks a question shows you to be more of an uneducated idiot than the person asking the question.
@@tankscrittersandurbanhomes5579 that type of attitude causes people to not ask questions, for fear they'll be laughed at, by others (who probably don't know the answer either), but didn't ask the question themselves .
@canuckguy worried you are calling others triggered but you clearly are the one triggered with your emotional outburst!
I really want to try one of these with my 2000Wh bluetti!! To run my furnace!! I would think it would work?? The bluetti can do 1000w continuous.. not sure about the amps tho?? It can run my bandsaw.. ha!!
We have many customers with bluetti units.
@@EZgeneratorswitch wanna do a collaboration?? My subscribers would certainly find your product interesting 👍
This looks like a great solution for us, even buying three to run heat, refrigerator and some lights, would be half the price of the smallest transfer switching system for a bonded neutral generator.
MrRidleydog, because you are only running limited items your generator can be much smaller and more user friendly, fuel efficient, etc...
MrRidleyDog in
Something to keep in mind in the case that this is not a dummy panel; those big wires at the top are still electrified even with the main switch in this panel open or off. Scary seeing you stick your fingers in there beside them without any cover.
A combined main panel should have two covers, one for the distribution panel and one for the main disconnect.
Even with the main off there is always power in the panel. The code clearly states "you should be knowledgeable with the task at hand"
Here is your answer. The switch can be placed any where that is convenient for the user to connect their generator. Next... Interlock is not needed, not required and is not code. Tested approved switches do not back feed.
So if I want to run fridge furnace and stove I would need to install 3 seperate switchs?
No back feeding, no turning off any of your breakers. You NEVER need to touch anything just plug into the unit and throw the switch to the generator position when your power resumes shut down your generator unplug and place into Normal mode...many customers use it for lights, outlets, heat just to name a few. It contains a resettable 15 amp breaker that can be placed on a 15 or 20 amp circuit. Our 15 amp breaker will protect the device and load.
I
I like the concept, and get why you don't need to worry about back-feeding, because the generator switch is isolating the load for that circuit. In normal mode, the load is fed directly from the panel; when you switch to generator mode, the circuit is isolated from the panel, and then fed from the generator inlet. No way to backfeed, and it seems to be an easier solution for the average homeowner than an interlock, or transfer switch for a small application. Looks like it would work great for something like a gas or oil furnace/hot water heater that only requires 120v.
Really like the way he explains everything... fast knowledgeable and simple..
I am looking for one for my water pump 220vac do you have them?
Yes Dedicated single circuit transfer switch for essential circuits. This is the least expensive way to get essential circuit energized. We don't compete with systems that energize 6-10 circuits. Using our switches allow use of more user friendly generators. Smaller , more efficient on fuel, ease of use. The extremely low cost of our switch allows you not to spend a fortune waiting for the lights to go out!
Got three of these installed that I’m using right now. One for the fridge, one for heat, one for a circuit with lights and outlets. All powered with just a 2500 watt inverter generator. They’re working great!
Thanks Ed, glad the set up is keeping you in good shape while power is out!
and that 2500 watts is appropriate to start heat and fridge ? (same time, different time?)
@@chenz3007 My house has oil heating, so I only need enough power to start the blower. I have no problem using the fridge and heat at the same time.
So you run three different cords to three separate switches to power three. Separate loads furnace lights and fridge is that correct how does that work out can you show me or explain why three separate ones the whole thing just seems crazy to me I'd want to run one cord number ten or 8 wire say to power my loads with one cord not three no ?
@@glennmanchester5696 The short answer is my generator didn't have a 30 amp or 50 amp plugs, just 15 amp 120 volt outlets. I already had the extension cords, so this was the easiest/lowest cost solution for me. We rarely lose power so running three cords is no big deal, I just feed them through a basement window. But yeah, if we lost power more often, or I had a bigger generator, I would probably just do an interlock switch with a single 50 amp plug connector.
Now thats what I'm talking about. That was simple enough that I can do that myself. Thank you for sharing this video !!!
The last home I looked at where they wanted to heat their home off of a generator during power outage, the gas furnance had a male cord end plugged into a standard recepticle. I told them to just use an extension cord direct from the generator. Since most home owners panels are recessed in a sheetrock wall, I find it easier to install a recepticle next to the furnace and put a male cord on the unit.
thanks...there is no backfeeding. switch isolates the generator & load from the utility power and vise versa
Help me out... my main breaker box has no main breaker so how is there no back feed? Seems like if I'm charging the panel, I'm charging the whole line to include back feed.
@@paulwenzl1711 you have a main somewhere. But that has zero to do with back feeding! First any transfer switch with a label such as intertek or ul will not backfeed period. That's the safety net you should be looking for.. A label. Are you using our switch?
@@EZgeneratorswitch no. Just trying to figure it out.
@@paulwenzl1711 a approved transfer switch is connected as follows... Both electrically and mechanically.
The switch is physically connecting the load(could be the whole house or portions there of) to the generator. Or.... The load to the street it can't cross over physically. Picture a Y... House is connected to the bottom. Gen set left... Street right. When you go left or right it physically breaks the other leg... So you can't backfeed.
@@EZgeneratorswitch - am i correct that as installed this setup will ONLY power the Furnace
You have the utility supply turned off and isolated, that’s great...no back feed on the hits...but your neutral is still connected from your furnace, to the panel-neutral bar and then out to the street......all unbalanced loads will still be flowing out to the transformer at the street. In a power outage, the utility will be working on the lines and transformers.....your sending dangerous back feeds on the neutral where they are working. You need to have a 3 pole isolation switch. Isolating your generator power and the neutrals. Any comments? Or am I missing something?
how would you wire the system up if you have two 200 amp panels??
With a whole house transfer system rated at 200 amps
I was taught that what you did at 5:45 with the wires before installing the wire nut is not a good procedure, You should just align the wires with their tips even and twist on the wire nuts letting them do the twisting together of the wires for a good solid connection.
That's the way the younger guys are told to do. Tell me how twisting the wires together with the pliers like it used to be done causes harm. I talked about this on a job recently with the young buck sparks and he told me the same as you? His explanation was modern nuts twisted the wire fine but he was a fan of stabbing wires in too??
Despite all of the hate Sir, I like your video and appreciate it. Thank you.
Transparent Vapor It's called disagreeing. Guess no one can have a different opinion.
I wonder of those disagreeing are actual electricians or just diarrhea mouths.
@@KaiatheSiberianHusky it's like when somebody says: you get it, don't you? and you nod your head-a-ha,a-ha, but if they asked you to explain it, you'd be lost.
My breaker box is outside on the side of the house - exposed to the elements. Do you make a switch for outside with a cover on it or something?
You can do what other customers have done. They use a taymac box mm-7440-c . It appears that many are very happy with that set up
@@EZgeneratorswitch Sounds good. Thanks for the reply and info. Any idea when you’ll have some more switches back in stock?
EZ Generator Switch is a manual transfer switch. It separates the Street feed from the generator so you could never backfeed.
I was wondering why you didn't say turn OFF main breaker in the house panel when using the generator and EZ Switch...
There is no way in hell that that would not back feed into the main, it's on the same bus bar that ties into the main.
I'm sure the utility workers appreciate that, very much.
@@ginpok6640 human error is the most common reason for things going wrong. That should be something automatic to where you don't have to trust somebody's memory.
I installed a dual circuit transfer switch in my home.... all lightbulbs in my house are LEDs. I can run ALL my lights, my furnace and my home theater system off a 2000 watt generator. Tested the load with a kill-a-watt meter, and still have about four to five hundred watts to spare. LED light bulbs TREMENDOUSLY help reduce the size of the generator needed. You can use about 8 LED bulbs in place of the load of ONE 100 watt incandescent bulb.
Thank you very much for sharing this with us and for your time .. I appreciate it. Very nice and neat work!
I've been out of the electrical business for a few code cycles now, but it used to be volition to use the main panel for a junction box or pull thru? By moving your furnace feed wire to the green switch box you would then be in compliance.
not a violation any more
I just installed my second one. Furnace and fridge. Works amazing. Thank you
Not bad....Many of these switch are very expensive and compicated to install, I would be happy to have heat, refer, tv and a few lights and I would be very happy.
Why do you need one for the fridge, since the fridge already has a plug that you can just unplug and then plug into the extension cord from the generator?
@@jpmacoo they won’t have a extension cord running through the house
@@jpmacoo Many people like myself have fridge alcoves and it's a pain in the rear to pull a large fridge out of the alcove far enough to get to it's plug.
So that would only supply generator power to the one circuit, correct?
I think most are confused thinking this device will power everything on the breaker, and not just the furnace. Assuming I'm right, this scenario the generator is only powering the furnace.
Don't know about "most are confused" but you apparently were. LOL
it does not power everything cause its only 15 amp
One circuit
Can you hook up a few things together more than just the furnace like the refrigerator, hot water tank, etc?
Single circuit transfer switch
Wrong...its done under amperage. Refrigs no problem, sump pumps, lights, furnaces 120 volt items. Heat pumps are electric heat and run 240 volts so that would not work
@@EZgeneratorswitch So are you saying if a few things were running from one circuit breaker, those can all be set up to one EZ Generator Switch as long as they are within the amperage?
@@jimmalin7020 yes
VERY Helpful! I now know what to buy for my generator when I hook it up to the well! Thanks!!!!!!
w water well pump. sorry about that.
@@repeatman EZ switch looks like a 120v hookup, most well pumps are 240
Can you install this outside with a weather proof bubble cover? Its nice to get the generator away from the inside spaces.
Taymac covers are used by our customers all the time
@@EZgeneratorswitch those are the nicest ones!
Will I need more then one switch for each load I want power?
Rydrdg you should check out the website. Lots of info 4u., plus other you tube videos. We manufacture a single circuit dedicated transfer switch for essential loads you need during an outage.
What if your furnace and thermostat like a nest are on different circuits/locations?
should make one for multiple ckts
I need to put my box outside next to my panel. Do u sell it with a surface mounted weatherproof box and cover?
We have many customers place it into a TAYMAC box...electrical supply houses sell them as well as big box stores
You will be fine, there is no configuration or procedure that will change the safety implementation of the product. We have a procedure for energizing and disconnecting we like you to follow.
Where in the he'll is the location of the starter on generac engine on a 2000 george town motor home?
@@danharper3675 now that's funny, when you bought it they didn't tell you?
Its really simple guys. Power from utility feeds into the box and THEN to the circuit of your choice. When you flip the switch it disconnects the circuit from the utility and allows the feed from the generator. It will not back feed.
A 220 volt unit would require a custom cord and would never get approved
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. I have a well pump that runs on 220. It would probably fry those little wires.
@@thelakeman5207 it's not a point of frying those little wires because it's the same gauge as a well line 20 amps. The difference is 240 volts not 120v
Do you have a switch available for 220v applications?
Could you post a video wiring up a GFCI breaker? Most breakers nowadays are GFCI, and the neutral wire is handled differently. I realize that furnace breakers often don't have or require GFCI breakers because they have no external plug, but if one wants to use the switch on another circuit, such as a refrigerator or bedroom circuit, that would likely have a GFCI breaker.
i installed an 4 EZ generator switch . very easy. in stalled 4 of them for a customer that had 4 apartments. to keep there heat on in a power outage. thanks i will be going to other customer with apartments thank you very much petrusewicz Electrical.
+Carol Petrusewicz Thank you very much!
would it work the same in new zealand. i must point out we use 220v normal voltage single phase.
great job----- made it look easy
I noticed you did not install the ground bar for the ground bare wires and you put the ground wires to the neutral bar and it should be on the ground bar. The neutral bar and the ground bar should be kept separate. That is the way I was taught. The neutral bar is grounded to the ground rods in the ground, then it's ok to do it that way.
That only applies if you are wiring another panel/sub panel. Then, you would need separate grounds and neutrals. Anything downstream of the first method of disconnect would be unbonded.
'off-set nipple'? yeesh, that sounds dreadfully painful
Patrick Wagz,
Is that all you can think of?
It's out there, yesterday the wife was watching some show and when I walked through to the kitchen I heard; with augmentation you get a free nipple relocation. I didn't even ask.
When you are 13 , the hormones control your thoughts. they even giggle when the teacher uses the word BUT. It is what you expect of children. DO NOT expect anything that resembles maturity.
Actually heat is the most important, pipes freeze and cause big damage. Staying warm is paramount. The issue with 240 volts is there are 2 different configurations so matching who has what becomes a problem. Worse yet... Where do you buy a 240 UL approved cord? We would love to solve everyone's power issues but we concentrate on the simple things like traffic lights, solar, essential home circuits like heat, refrigerator, lights, sump pumps. Thank you for your input. We have the greatest customers!
yeah what prevents you from back feeding the grid and hurting someone???
ALL Approved transfer switches do not back feed to the grid. We have a UL & CSA approval
I had the same question. Here's what I'm seeing.. When the generator is connected and If the main panel breaker isn't turned off then it will back feed through one of the 120 volt legs.
UL & CSA approved transfer switches do not backfeed. There is NO CONNECTION EVER between the generator and the grid.
Then there's more to this little device than I imagined. With an adequate generator it simply powers up one 15 amp breaker to service whatever is on that line.
Transfer switches that are UL & CSA approved/tested don't backfeed. There is no possible connection to the grid from the generator. Only house to generator and House to grid.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
Nice video!... neat product....
Good stuff! Looks like a nice product. Thought i would mention to check with local codes. Its against code in my area to use the combination panel as a junction point. I would need to relocate the furnace romex cable to square junction box and make connections behind the EZ Gen switch. This leaves only the line side wires and ground to terminate inside the panel with no connections.
Great video, great switch.
Does the switch have a 'center off' rocker switch position to turn the furnace off and disconnect it from the line?
This would not be done during a power outage. I thought I heard a click at center off. I understand that no cord to the plug from the generator would not be a powered line and do the same thing, break the black hot line.
All transfer switches with a UL have a center off. The requirements are break before make and that is done with center off. There is no power on the cord unless you are running your generator.
So explain to me how when you energize your switch and feed the panel you are not back feeding back onto the line? Are you relying on the homeowner to open his main? I promise you…. You send 120 volts back through your service wire you WILL have primary voltage on the line after it goes through a transformer. Good linemen are killed every year from this scenario. It’s a cool idea for feeding one load……just need assurances that safety is a consideration.
That’ s why there is a transfer switch
My generator has a floating neutral. The panel I'll install it to is a properly bonded main panel. As described in this video, will the switch bond the neutral to the ground for me? I couldn't find any documentation on your site for installation.
Yes no problem 😄
Why do you break the neutral? They are all connected together in the end aren't they?
Code required with a bonded neutral generator only.
Dont understand puting neutral apart with a cable nut when the end you put it in a neutral bar? Its the same if you put both cable at the neutral bar.
the switch really is the best
Two questions: So you product only supplies power to the furnish...correct? How do you tell when the power grid comes back on?...when the rest of the lights in the house come on? Sorry that wasn't made clear in your video. Thanks
Switch transfers load for what ever breaker you connect it to...
When the lights come back on pull your extension cord out shut down your generator and place switch back in the normal position.
Anybody who needs this level of instruction probably should stay away from a panel box
Thanks for sharing info about your product. It is simple for cases where one only circuit is needed. This is basically a simplified transfer switch and the external plug combined
Thank you! Lots of uses some we never counted on like traffic lights , gates in remote areas of western states for road closing not to mention lights,refrig and sump pumps.
I AM ELETRICAL IN LIVE BRAZIL !
Will this run all your appliances of course one at a time . Do you have to install a separate box to run each appliance, for instance if you connect this box to your heater breaker will that energize your whole buss so you can manually turn one thing at a time.
+TheQdoggerShow . We manufacture a SINGLE circuit transfers switch. It is dedicated to a specific circuit for essential items needed during an outage. Some customers want their heat, some want their refrig, lights, sump pump and so on. A "whole House" transfer switch is most likely rated at 200 amps and the switch itself with no installation cost around $400
Thank you!
Can I replace a furnace on/off single gang switch box with this box, which is a double gang size? I would need to mount it to a vertical stud. Are those side holes enough to support the enclosure? My goal is to mount it flush with the drywall.
Yes from the generator to the switch. There are 5 different configurations for 220V outlets. So first we would have to know which “outlet configuration” your generator had ….then build a cord to match it and then it would also have to match the inlet in our switch! The cost would get prohibitive
I am concerned about the "button breaker" in this device. I'm sure it's UL 489 certified but I don't know if I'd trust it with one of my branch circuits. Do you have another model with a full size breaker?
So you have 1 110 line and only a furnace powered ? The house breaker box has 2 110 bars the breakers mount on that are separate fed so you can power 220 volt things like an electric dryer. Can it be hooked up for 220 or to one of the power bars or jumped to both without using 220 volt and the 220 breaker off OR would that require another breaker box and a switch that kept grid and generator power from operating at once ? Like if you wish to power a fridge, lights , computer, TV and a few outlets depending on your generator output of course. Would 2 generators be able to power each 110 bar in the homes breaker box with 2 switches and have a similar breaker box with the same number and amp rating of breakers in your home with proper output generators ?
Brian good questions. Let's start here. We manufacture a single circuit transfer switch dedicated to essential circuits needed during an outage.
If you wanted to energize multiple circuits you would need a 240 volt transfer switch RATED for the entire panel or load you wanted to transfer. In other words if your panel is 200 amps the switch needs to be 200 amp. There are NO Shortcuts. No cheap way, no bearing the system. Our price is I expensive because of it size and capability....Single circuit. We are the least expensive way to connect a essential circuit. That is what it was designed and patented for. In addition once you want to energize multiple circuits your generator increases in size matching your load. Our load would be small therefore your generator can be small also. Appreciate your questions
Sorry forgot... One generator only unless like several (Honda, Yamaha) they can be interconnected and wave Form becomes one.
2 QUESTIONS.... Can your box be mounted closer to where the generator is and can it be hooked up to power more than just the furnace?
How many different things can you wire into that one switch?
One
On multiple bad winters in Oklahoma the area I live in we lose power for no less than 2 to 3 weeks at a time. It is miserable! Finally able to purchase a generator now need to find the money to install the switch
Since you are connecting to 120v breaker, won't you only be powering half of the panel? Half of the breakers normally run on one phase and the other half run on the other phase. Or am I missing the whole point? It looks as though you are only powering the furnace through the switch?
Will this give power to my whole panel box. So I CAN RUN lights and other thing in my house ? Thank you dan
If my generator is floating neutral, and not grounded, is this set up OK?
Hi, shouldn’t we shut down the main breaker in order not to hurt the lineman working on the grid
But I noticed it didn’t have a 4 prong 220 for the generator can I still use that if I want to run gas heat refrigerator some lights and a few flat screen TV’s? My hot water tank is also gas as my stove but it has to have power to turn on oven.
Single circuit transfer switch not a whole house transfer switch. There are no shortcuts, you need a whole house transfer switch. Generator needs to be capable of handling the load you want.
So, do you mean that you can only hook up one item per switch? I'm buying a Honda 7000 and want to have my furnace, deep freezer, refrigerator, some lights, and computer hooked up. I have a propane stove so I can use the cook top and light manually but the oven is electronic so it would need hooked in too, although it just gets plugged into a regular outlet.
Look at a 10 circuit transfer switch.. with installation it should run around $800 ...depending on how far the electrician will need to run the feed for that panel. We are at the opposite end of the spectrum for $80 bucks
Thanks ez generator for a simple product. Put one in a couple months ago before winter and its a perfect solution in case of a freezing rain storm that we get here in the Midwest. Works perfectly.
Lee thank you for using our product!
Your example would allow the green box when powered to feed back to the incoming power line outside. This could endanger power line workers.
It's doesn't back feed. Ul and CAN ratings will not allow backfeeding
Question is....you have a fridge hooked up....you don't unplug when power is restored....is there a back feed trip reset or someway that will prevent the generator from a back feed overload ??
Ray Vandegrift no back feeding
Is this NEMA4 rated? Will the generator be ok when power comes back on?
Generator will be fine when power returns.
I'm confused. Is this switch just for one breaker? For example, in this video just for the furnace? Or.. can it be hooked up to send generator power to multiple essential breakers? I may want the furnace, lights, tv, etc, on one generator switch.
Single circuit transfer switch dedicated to a essential circuit during a power outage
What if you don't have a furnace?
You want to hook up the other as lights or fridge or dryer or washer or freezer? Or hot water heater? How would that go?
Obviously those loads are large and you need something much larger