The one thing to be aware of, when you do a deep pour, you have to be very careful with the temperature. The epoxy will exotherm and create a tremendous amount of heat, enough that it will crack your pour or even spontaneously combust. We have made several river tables and unfortunately we have learned by experience, and that can be very expensive when you pour a table with 22 gallons of epoxy. Great videos, keep up the good work
Every time I see a new video from you, I am impressed that little bit more. you are genuinely the best person I have found on RUclips at explaining everything. You know what you are talking about and you convey the information in a way that someone with zero knowledge of the subject can come out feeling like they are well informed but at the same time, you are not patronising in the slightest. You answer the questions that I wouldn't even think of asking and you are an interesting guy! I genuinely mean this when I say, thank you very much and please keep it up!!
Learning about these products is GOOD studing them all learning alot about them and how to use them THANKS DO MORE And applications do's & don't s everyone has their FAVORITE ! EPOXY IS EXPLODING !
I appreciate the rundown! I want to fill some small wormholes on the surface of my workbench, as well as shore up some not-so-perfect lamination on the underside. I'm going to give West System epoxy a try. Thanks again for making so much information so easy to access, understand, and apply!
All of the cruising yachtys I know have gone to Totalboat. No difference noted in use or holding power but a fairly substantial price difference. Also for some reason their products seem to be easier and quicker shipped to foreign ports. Good information on the table top and thick pour stuff, I've seen folks try to get more performance out of the penetrating epoxy than it has in it. Trying to save rotted core mostly in decks is more than it's capable of.
Thanks for sharing such valuable information. I have been wanting to buy epoxy for the last couple of months but have been putting it off due to information overload. You video has really cleared things up for me. Many thanks.
Excellent overview, and good timing for me. I've just started looking into how to use epoxy resin for river table type projects. This will help narrow down what I should be looking for. You asked for snide remarks, so how about, "nice video, chrome-dome!" :) Just having fun, thanks again.
Good timing, I just got started on a river table and had already picked the Ecopoxy and now I feel that it was a good choice. You did forget one thing, it is not cheap. If anyone wonders why a dining table with a lot of epoxy costs so much just price the material. Good video, very informative. Thanks
Wow, thank you for explaining resin so well! I've watched a half dozen other resin-for-beginners videos on RUclips trying to figure out what I need to do, and this one is the first one that really helped me understand. Then I read the comments, and they are positive, with people asking questions AND the video maker actually taking the time to answer everyone's questions thoroughly! These are the channels that make RUclips valuable to me. So thanks. I've carved a kuksa camp cup/mug out of some apple wood from a dying apple tree in my back yard. When I got down to the center of the mug the core of the wood had a couple of dark hollow spots in it. I figured I'd just fill the holes with resin. The cup is mostly done, and I need to do the resin work, but I'm not quite sure what resin to use. It's all curved, so I'll need to add a little resin at at time, let it partially set, turn the cup another angle and add a bit more, until I get the holes filled. Then I'll sand it down. And whatever I use will have to make the bottom of the cup water tight, even for hot drinks like coffee and such, and not leak with use over time. but I only need a small amount. Maybe an ounce or two at most. Do you think I could just use a 5 minute resin in the syringe? Or should I go with the one you mentioned that soaks into the wood a bit and makes it really tight? What would you recommend for a broke dude trying this all out for the first time? Thank you in advance!
if you want to drink out of it you may want to be picky with what you use the cheap ones will leach stuff into that you drink that may not be what you want. A cheap 5 Minute epoxy is very thick and you may have issues with it in a syringe. my first thought goes to a bar top epoxy. but to seal it completely I would probably want to use a penetrating epoxy to make sure the wood does not expand and contract with use. you may want to send me some pictures and I would be glad to help.
My wife and I are starting a soap making business and we are stocking up on various color micas to color the soaps with. Will those micas work for coloring? The ones we are using come from Mad Micas and TKB Trading if you want to take a look at them.
Thanks for a really informative video. But I would really need your advice for a log cabin bathroom - how to treat / seal / waterproof the walls? TotalBoat penetrating? ThickSet? TableTop? Please consider that the walls are ... vertical so I think a thixotropic agent is needed - silica? Is it compatible with the products you presented? Thank you
I would go with the penetrating epoxy. It will soak in much deeper and give you a good wood ceiling. After that you can finish it with whatever you want depending upon the gloss or protection you want. I would not use thick set or table top as they would just run down the wall without much bonding.
Great video Thanks. I have a piece of Box Elder 6 inches square and 2 ft long.I will be turning a tall vase with this piece. It has a crack running across the piece 6 inches long, 3" deep and 3/16 wide at it's widest at the surface. I have two types of resin, the West System and Alumalite clear cast. Based on your analysis it seem that the West System will make the strongest joint. Do you agree?
Unfortunately there is no cost effective thick poor epoxy. The cheapest that still gives a good result is Total boat thickset, but it is still every pricey. amzn.to/2ytQhgi
I am helping my friend who has had a contractor butcher a lot of things around his house, including his beautiful figured sequoia counter-tops. The epoxy is all wavy, there are runs, there are spots that are still tacky 2 weeks later, and they were cut to the exact dimensions of the cabinets with no overhang. First of all is there any way to add more epoxy to salvage it, maybe a thin coat of the table top epoxy? Would I have to remove the epoxy to re-pour it, if so can that be done with a hand plane, power planer, sander, solvent? Second any ideas of how to use the proverbial board stretcher to give the counter-tops some overhang? I was thinking about ripping them in half and making a strip of checkerboard butcher block in the middle to give it some contrast. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If you don't mind the sick coat of epoxy on top of everything then yes you could use a bar top epoxy to coat the whole thing It won't cover any high spot but it will level out any low spot. So if something is too high then you would have to sand or plane it down. As to making it wider pretty much the only way is adding something to the board whether you rip it down and put it in the middle or put it on the back or the front edge but that's about it. Sounds like a pretty sad operation.
I want to glue a 1/4" thick "veneer" to a solid wood substrate for a case top. After I resawed the veneer, it curled. I've kerfed the back side, but still have some lift near the edges. I'm concerned that yellow glue will eventually fail. I previously purchased West System Epoxy to use as filler for decorative knots and voids in the surface of the veneer. If I also use the epoxy to glue down the veneer to the subtop, will I have a wood movement problem as the seasons change? Both substrate and veneer are cherry and the grain will run parallel.
if the grain is ruing parallel then there should be no issue. the epoxy actually expands and contracts about the same speed as wood due to heat. as long as the wood is not getting wet it should work fine.
I just watched your video. Nicely done. I use a lot of totalboat, Jamestown is one of my sponsors. I noticed on your Tabletop epoxy how yellow your hardener was. I had one of the manufacturers tell me that is unavoidable. Well, it's not. It's caused by ultraviolet light and heat. If you like I can send you a picture of my tabletop hardener if you like and you can that it is clear as new. Give me your e-mail address and I will send it to you. My tabletop hardener is at least six months old. I have other epoxies that are several years old and still clear. It's real simple, keep it in total darkness and a cool place when not in use. I have an old refrigerator. I keep all my glues in it. The shelf life is greatly increased. I just thought I would pass it on. Take care, Larry
Thanks. It also depends on the hardener you use. The fast version comes fairly yellow where the slow is clear as can be. but that is on the high performance. The bar top and table top are glass clear.
I'm actually working on ideals on restoring an old Stanley jointer that has deep cracks in it. would it be a good idea to use cactus juice then epoxy the big split
Cactus juice will not fill any voids. And it's not very good as an adhesive so if the crack is tight then cactus juice will work but if you have to clamp it shut then it will not work. In that case I would use a structural epoxy and work it as far in as I can. And then clamp it shut
Great video, thank you! I live in Panama and there are very few epoxy products available on the market here. I have a slab with large cracks at either end which I want to fill to strengthen the slab. There is a Table Top Epoxy product which I can get easily, my question is can I color and use table top finishing epoxy to fill the cracks aswell?
If you use a table top epoxy you just have to make sure that the crack isn't any bigger than about a quarter inch. If it gets too big then the epoxy can heat up and you get a runaway reaction. But you can still add a color to it.
I want to make a general work table for outdoors in Florida. I'd be using 2x4's , plywood. As a complete beginner what do I need to focus on to provide the table w some protection ?
That really depends. Is it going to be in the sun is it going to be in the rain or is it just going to be exposed to the temperature and moisture changes of the air. Also it depends on what kind of finish you want on it. most the time for me if it's going to be something that I'm going to be working on regularly dinging and putting defects into the wood is I'm working on it I go for something easy like a boiled linseed oil and paste wax that I have to reapply regularly but keeps the wood looking good. That doesn't work if it's going to be in the sun or directly in the rain. And that case you need a bit more protection like a penetrating epoxy and marine varnish.
Thanks for the video, how about the cheaper priced epoxy river table kits have you ever used any ? I saw 2 gallon kit for $89 and all good reviews, not many reviews but they were good, I’m just afraid to mess up my table top
I doubt that I'll get an answer, mainly because it's too long ago. But, I have a cherry table top that has a1.25 inch round and .875 inch deep missing knot. It's on the under side but I have a concern that at some point it might affect the top. I'd like to fill it with epoxy but after watching your video I'm still confused. I've only used epoxy to glue things and my normal glue up is with Titebond. It's highly unlikely that I'd ever use a gallon, besides I'm too old to care about it lasting 10 years. Thank you.
Question. I typically only do charcuterie and cutting boards that are no more than 1” deep. What do you recommend so I don’t have to make multiple pours? Seems the 1” is in between the 2” deep pours and the .25” table top pours. Thanks
I just today experimented with epoxy on a serving platter and tried to seal the holes I had drilled into it with Gaffatape to fill them with epoxy then. Went well for 20 minutes then the seal started to fall. Have you ever seen that.? Is that typical for Gaffatape? Greetings from Germany
Every epoxy is different and some of them are less than a year but most of the more expensive ones will last for years to decades. For instance West system has a 5-year shelf life but for the woodworker it will be functional for 10 years or more.
I have an OLD loom that has gear teeth cut into the wooden cloth beam that are starting to disappear from age and use. In watching this I was looking for the product that would be able to repair the teeth to be able to use it again. Have an idea what to use?
A penetrating epoxy would help to harden the existing wood so that it would not wear it down as quickly. But if you want to actually recut the teeth you would have to make a mold to cast the epoxy in.
there is not much that will last long term but if you sealed it with a penetrating epoxy like : amzn.to/2Nf1N3h that will stabilize the wood so that it does not change too much outside. then coat it in a UV epoxy like this : amzn.to/37JTUMP that will protect it from the sun for a couple years. other wise after the penetrating epoxy you could use a marine varnish like this: amzn.to/2zPjzHn that is cheaper but wont last much more then a year or two at most. in eather case it would require a scrape down and re coat from time to time.
It all depends on the application. Most of the time I just pour it on and the form that is holding the work allocates the epoxy to where it needs to be. But for some things like penetrating epoxy I will use a brush to get it down into the wood. And for some epoxies like a table top I would use a squeegee to move it around to where it needs to be.
What finish would you recommend for a live edge dinner table got a family of 13? This of course will have lots of abuse and water spillage. Also, have you heard of Stone Coat and of so is there a reason you don't use them?
I have used stone coat in the past. But found it to be a bit expensive and almost identical to the other ones I've used. But that was a while ago who knows what's changed now. There are lots and lots of other brands out there. I'm not a huge fan of the look of epoxy finish as it just looks like a plastic coat covering the wood. But it is one of the more durable finishes. The next most durable I would suggest would be a polyurethane. It will protect the wood beautifully and depending upon how many coats you put on can leave a really nice wood finish. The downside to epoxy and polyurethane is that they are hard to fix if something damages them. With epoxy you can sand it down and buff it out but with polyurethane you generally have to strip it and recode it. For my money I would go with a hard wax like Rubio Monaco. It is my favorite look of a finish it protects the wood from waters spills and other damage. And if the finish ever starts to rub out you just wipe on another coat like you would with a BLO. Incredibly easy to manage and I love the look of it. Unfortunately it's very expensive. That's what I used on my dining table that I made last year.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks for the detailed answer. The last kitchen table I refinished I ended up putting polyurethane on it. I liked the look of it but after a bit of time the wear really shows, from scratch marks, (children love playing with forks across a beautiful finish, I think it's pathological) and of course the normal wear from plates sliding, I wondered if there was something more durable. I think polyurethane is good for things like dressers etc though and like the look of it. I agree with how epoxy makes it look like a layer of plastic but I think there comes a point where amount of work vs amount little minions collide lol. Thanks for this video!
@@mypony891 just keep in mind polyurethane and epoxy have about the same hardness. So if something scratches polyurethane it will probably also scratch epoxy. The nice thing about the epoxy is you can sand it and buff it back to a shine.
Hi James :) do you have any experience with westsystem exposed to high temperatures? (e.g. in hot summer, the temperature inside the car, which can reach up to 158 F). I've checked the technical specifications on their website and wanted to make sure if I read correctly that the deflection time starts with 118 F? I wanted to ask You becaue, You've glued to glue topic very well and maybe have some life experience with temperature ;) (thanks for great content)
I don't have experience with high temperatures. But I made an airplane a decade ago out of fiberglass and epoxy. And if I didn't put up a sunshield the cockpit we get really hot. I never had any structural problems inside with the epoxy layers.
Would it be worth it to make a workbench out of softwood and then some penetrating epoxy then plane the finish off? Im not sure how deep it penetrates but maybe it would become more dent resistant.
The penetrating epoxy on a softwood bench would only penetrate in a hundredth of an inch or so. So a shaving taken off the top would remove it all. Generally, a softwood bench is actually a good thing, particularly for a beginner. That way it won't dent up any of the work you're making.
Which epoxy would you recommend for filling knot holes in a hard wood floor on rough lumber that has been milled? I need something that the Bona Sealer and Traffic HD will adhere too. Any ideas?
If you're just feeling bug holes then most anything will do as long as it's thin enough to soak down into it. If it's a fast epoxy it might be too thick. As to finish adhesion they will all be right about the same. for me I would probably use whatever epoxy I have on hand that would be an hour or more in cure time.
I'm planning on using the west system 105 resin for sealing a wooden camper before I skin it with aluminum sheets. My concern is the epoxy softening in high temperatures as I live in Texas. The heat deflection temp. for this resin is 120F. Do you know what could potentially happen when the aluminum heats up to 150F or so? (which in turn conduct the temp to the epoxy which is in direct contact with)
I generally don't use wood fillers as I prefer to show off cracks and things of that nature than try and hide them. I've never been happy with most wood fillers. They attempt to hide imperfections and rarely do they ever do that generally ends up being a sign of "hey I'm not proud of this I'm trying to hide it." I would rather highlight it by filling it with a colored epoxy then try and match the color of the wood to make it disappear.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for responding so quickly. I was thinking of covering up finish nails and such. Love your personality by the way, your one of my favorite RUclipsrs!
Wow, I'd need some epoxy to stabilize my punky brain now... what would you recommend? Seriously, though, thanks for the info, I'll have to check what's available around here.
Any 2:1 marine epoxy resin + West 410 and West 404 filler can do it all. Fillers can be blended for custom strength and sandability. If using just 410 filler apply a sealer coat of pure epoxy on top for added durability.
I have several window sills on 120 YO home that are totally deteriorating. I'd like to build them out rather than tearing out the windows. Can THIXO do that job so that I can remold them into the sills? (Using grinders etc.) These are the 6-8 foot tall windows and its the exterior sills. How long to actually cure? Temperature restrictions (warm but not too cold or hot)?
Sorry - I went to their site and answered most of my questions but one thing I need to be able to do is form the sills by hand a little before they harden. Is there something I can use that it won't stick to to form the sills with?
for that you want Abatron WoodEpox amzn.to/32fXXNV First use a penitrating epoxy to solidify the wood and stop further rotting. then build out the missing wood with WoodEpox then you can sand, carve or scrape it just like wood.
Hi there. I am looking to made lids for some heavy duty glass vases I have. I was wondering what the best quality resin is out there that will best resemble glass. My goal is to try and make it seem like the lid came with the vase and wasn't made separately or "cheaply" if that makes sense? Thank you so much in advance for any advice!
Can you please tell me the kind of epoxy I need to fill small voids and checks in walnut. They aren't big but sometimes several in otherwise beautiful walnut slabs. Most holes are small so I don't wan to buy a whole lot of epoxy. Plus, I see some epoxy's that are gloss or high gloss, I don't know if that is what I need to fill walnut boards I want to make into Charcuterie Boards. And I don't know what is food safe. Thanks
All epoxies are going to be a high gloss when they dry. But you can sand them down to any finish you want. Usually I would recommend total boot high performance. But generally you have to buy that and at least a quart. And if you're just talking about bug holes and small cracks then you might be better off with getting a 60-minute epoxy from pretty much any store and mixing in the pigment you want with it.
Great video! Very informative. I have a large walnut beam I am using for a fireplace mantle, it has some cracks in it I want to fill. They are approximately 1/8" or less wide but some are pretty deep, what would recommend to use on them?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I have one additional question for you, if I use the totalboat high performance can i fill the cracks up all at once or will I have to do multiple pours, since there is no way of really the exact depth of some of the cracks?
James, I have been led to believe that epoxy deteriorates when exposed to UV (Sun light). To stabilize the epoxy you need to apply something like a clear coat lacquer to protect the epoxy from UV it the project for out door use. Is this true, and if so do you have any recommendations.
Yes that is correct for most. The common answer to that is marine varnish on top. You can also get UV resistant Epoxy. Eco-poxy sells some that I have used in the past.
If you use the thick set it's perfectly fine. But that's too thick for high performance or most fast setting epoxies. Most of those will start to boil if they get that thick.
Im in the process of replacing my 20 year old workbench top with 10/4 hard maple 4inches wide/thick and am considering using the west system epoxy if lieu of titebond glue. Do you have any experience using the west system with this type of a glue up? Since epoxy requires less clamping pressure, I am a little concerned of using too much clamping pressure which could lead to premature failures. Any suggestions or advice will be greatly appreciated, i realize it will cost more but i have already budgeted for the incremental cost. Thanks in advance, Tgomez
That is what I use now when I laminate benches. West System or Total boat High performance. You do not need as much clamping pressure, but you will not over pressure them. Squeezeing out the glue is a myth. Just clamp tell the gaps are gone and you are good.
I have a piece of 3/4 pine that was pre-painted black, and then a 2D image was CNC'ed, roughly 1/8 inch deep. I want to fill, but not overflow, the CNC'ed areas with a metallic red epoxy. Which product/method would you suggest?? I am especially concerned about using a heat gun or torch to pop bubbles, because I don't want the black paint to peel.
If you mix the epoxy slowly then there are no bubbles in it that need to be popped. the thinner the epoxy you use that flatter you can get the surface and the more bubbles that come to the surface by themselves. but the longer it takes to cure and the more it soaks into he wood. meaning it might need to be topped off. the faster the epoxy the thicker it is and the more it is hard to get bubbles out. for me I would use High performance from total boat. it is half way between the two and you can get it bubble free if you are carful with mixing. feel free to email me if you have further questions.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Sorry for not being clearer on the bubbles issue. I wasn't really concerned about bubbles caused by mixing too fast. I was rather concerned about bubbles caused by air drawing up out of the wood and into the epoxy.
that is usually not a problem as the air generally does not come up into the epoxy. it may get trapped there but most of the time the epoxy seeps into the wood rather then the air into the epoxy. unless it is seals all around it is generally easer for the air in the wood to go out another way then through the epoxy.
Im new with this things. I am no knowledge about this epoxy. I wanted to learn how beginners start to make things using epoxy. But i dont know how to use epoxy please help. What is the best material to use .
I gonna start with a table for my house . I like your videos . And it gives me interesting how to make epoxy table. But i dont now to start with. Thank so much for the help.
Looking for an epoxy to fill a small void in oak, in the 1/8” depth. Would a simple dual syringe 5 min be suitable? Or do I need to consider the thick type epoxy?
Yes for something like that I'd use 5 minute epoxy if you can find a syringe you can push it through then that would be great usually I put it on the surface and then poke it down in with a toothpick.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank's sir I will order West System epoxy resin to connect a broken racket. Does that mean you have been using the West Epoxy resin system for a long time?
Some help please. I just noticed 2 large cracks that appeared in a large epoxy resin wood table that I’m making. Any advice on how to fix it? I feel like ugly crying. It’s a 10 day old pour, 2 inch thick, still in its form.
feel free to send me pictures. there is an email in the about me tab or you can send me a contact form on my web site and I can reply. I would love to help you out.
I use the basic epoxy for my coffee table but when is dry is come sticky little bits if I put cup of coffee or any think I can't remove it easy is sticky i don't know why 😞😞 can anyone help me WHY PLS....
Very interesting as all ways. BUT then bam out of the blue , you just casual mentioned O I built a 200 mph plane .you are a bit of a dark horse young james , prey tell us more
Thank you for this video, everybody else is saying how to use epoxy, but nobody else tells you when and what type you need.
The one thing to be aware of, when you do a deep pour, you have to be very careful with the temperature. The epoxy will exotherm and create a tremendous amount of heat, enough that it will crack your pour or even spontaneously combust. We have made several river tables and unfortunately we have learned by experience, and that can be very expensive when you pour a table with 22 gallons of epoxy. Great videos, keep up the good work
Every time I see a new video from you, I am impressed that little bit more. you are genuinely the best person I have found on RUclips at explaining everything. You know what you are talking about and you convey the information in a way that someone with zero knowledge of the subject can come out feeling like they are well informed but at the same time, you are not patronising in the slightest. You answer the questions that I wouldn't even think of asking and you are an interesting guy! I genuinely mean this when I say, thank you very much and please keep it up!!
Thanks Mark. That means a lot. I will keep it coming!
Learning about these products is GOOD studing them all learning alot about them and how to use them THANKS DO MORE
And applications do's & don't s everyone has their FAVORITE ! EPOXY IS EXPLODING !
I appreciate the rundown! I want to fill some small wormholes on the surface of my workbench, as well as shore up some not-so-perfect lamination on the underside. I'm going to give West System epoxy a try. Thanks again for making so much information so easy to access, understand, and apply!
Thanks. My pleasure. Have fun.
the best epoxy 101 out there
thank you
James Just goggled the cozy mk 1v .A home build , wow my admiration for you has just increased ten fold .
It is a fun one. The mark 5 is a fun plane.
All of the cruising yachtys I know have gone to Totalboat. No difference noted in use or holding power but a fairly substantial price difference. Also for some reason their products seem to be easier and quicker shipped to foreign ports. Good information on the table top and thick pour stuff, I've seen folks try to get more performance out of the penetrating epoxy than it has in it. Trying to save rotted core mostly in decks is more than it's capable of.
Scott we thank you!
Superb information, thanks a lot!
Greet information, just what I needed to get me started on a woodworking project!! Thanks for effect bringing sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing such valuable information. I have been wanting to buy epoxy for the last couple of months but have been putting it off due to information overload. You video has really cleared things up for me. Many thanks.
Thanks. Glad I can help.
Very helpful, thanks.
Excellent overview, and good timing for me. I've just started looking into how to use epoxy resin for river table type projects. This will help narrow down what I should be looking for. You asked for snide remarks, so how about, "nice video, chrome-dome!" :) Just having fun, thanks again.
Lol Thanks Scott Glad I can help out. If you have any questions let me know
Thank you so much, James. The info is a real help to beginners like me
thank you James
Good timing, I just got started on a river table and had already picked the Ecopoxy and now I feel that it was a good choice. You did forget one thing, it is not cheap. If anyone wonders why a dining table with a lot of epoxy costs so much just price the material. Good video, very informative. Thanks
So true epoxy is an incredibly expensive way to build things.
Wow, thank you for explaining resin so well! I've watched a half dozen other resin-for-beginners videos on RUclips trying to figure out what I need to do, and this one is the first one that really helped me understand. Then I read the comments, and they are positive, with people asking questions AND the video maker actually taking the time to answer everyone's questions thoroughly! These are the channels that make RUclips valuable to me. So thanks.
I've carved a kuksa camp cup/mug out of some apple wood from a dying apple tree in my back yard. When I got down to the center of the mug the core of the wood had a couple of dark hollow spots in it. I figured I'd just fill the holes with resin. The cup is mostly done, and I need to do the resin work, but I'm not quite sure what resin to use. It's all curved, so I'll need to add a little resin at at time, let it partially set, turn the cup another angle and add a bit more, until I get the holes filled. Then I'll sand it down. And whatever I use will have to make the bottom of the cup water tight, even for hot drinks like coffee and such, and not leak with use over time. but I only need a small amount. Maybe an ounce or two at most.
Do you think I could just use a 5 minute resin in the syringe? Or should I go with the one you mentioned that soaks into the wood a bit and makes it really tight? What would you recommend for a broke dude trying this all out for the first time? Thank you in advance!
if you want to drink out of it you may want to be picky with what you use the cheap ones will leach stuff into that you drink that may not be what you want. A cheap 5 Minute epoxy is very thick and you may have issues with it in a syringe. my first thought goes to a bar top epoxy. but to seal it completely I would probably want to use a penetrating epoxy to make sure the wood does not expand and contract with use. you may want to send me some pictures and I would be glad to help.
Thank You James 👍
Thank you. Great presenter!
Wow! I'm a thousand times smarter about epoxy now. Thanks, Love the videos you guys make. They are always puntastic.
Thansk Paul. Glad I cold help!
Wood By Wright How 2 no need to get hot headed!! You may end up with a bad reaction and have a breakdown
Thank you! awesome video in every way.
Great video
Very useful - especially since I had a resin for watching it :-)
Oh nice I like that one.
Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the great information.
My pleasure. and congrats on first!
great explanations
West System 207 hardener is their super clear one. It works pretty well, but it's slow.
One of these days I will get some of that. just have not had much use for it yet.
Very nice
My wife and I are starting a soap making business and we are stocking up on various color micas to color the soaps with. Will those micas work for coloring? The ones we are using come from Mad Micas and TKB Trading if you want to take a look at them.
Ya those will work fine!
I have used the mica soaps. Gives a cool fine glitter swirly look. Best of luck on your projects!
I remember your leak when pouring your table. 😁
Lol that was not a happy day.
Very interesting, I've only ever been able to afford the five minute kind, haha
yup that stuff can get pricey!
Thank you so much.
Thanks for a really informative video. But I would really need your advice for a log cabin bathroom - how to treat / seal / waterproof the walls? TotalBoat penetrating? ThickSet? TableTop? Please consider that the walls are ... vertical so I think a thixotropic agent is needed - silica? Is it compatible with the products you presented? Thank you
I would go with the penetrating epoxy. It will soak in much deeper and give you a good wood ceiling. After that you can finish it with whatever you want depending upon the gloss or protection you want. I would not use thick set or table top as they would just run down the wall without much bonding.
Thanks was interesting. I've used 5 minute from the dollar store a fair bit. Seems fairly decent and it's cheap. I wouldn't trust my life on it though
Great video Thanks. I have a piece of Box Elder 6 inches square and 2 ft long.I will be turning a tall vase with this piece. It has a crack running across the piece 6 inches long, 3" deep and 3/16 wide at it's widest at the surface. I have two types of resin, the West System and Alumalite clear cast. Based on your analysis it seem that the West System will make the strongest joint. Do you agree?
Yes. The west system epoxy is a structural epoxy aluminite is more of a decorative epoxy. It's easier to turn and clear
Thanks for the video, what is the best and cost wise for river table tops would you recommend, I’m retired,broke and just started wood working
Unfortunately there is no cost effective thick poor epoxy. The cheapest that still gives a good result is Total boat thickset, but it is still every pricey. amzn.to/2ytQhgi
I am helping my friend who has had a contractor butcher a lot of things around his house, including his beautiful figured sequoia counter-tops. The epoxy is all wavy, there are runs, there are spots that are still tacky 2 weeks later, and they were cut to the exact dimensions of the cabinets with no overhang. First of all is there any way to add more epoxy to salvage it, maybe a thin coat of the table top epoxy? Would I have to remove the epoxy to re-pour it, if so can that be done with a hand plane, power planer, sander, solvent? Second any ideas of how to use the proverbial board stretcher to give the counter-tops some overhang? I was thinking about ripping them in half and making a strip of checkerboard butcher block in the middle to give it some contrast. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If you don't mind the sick coat of epoxy on top of everything then yes you could use a bar top epoxy to coat the whole thing It won't cover any high spot but it will level out any low spot. So if something is too high then you would have to sand or plane it down. As to making it wider pretty much the only way is adding something to the board whether you rip it down and put it in the middle or put it on the back or the front edge but that's about it. Sounds like a pretty sad operation.
I want to glue a 1/4" thick "veneer" to a solid wood substrate for a case top. After I resawed the veneer, it curled. I've kerfed the back side, but still have some lift near the edges. I'm concerned that yellow glue will eventually fail. I previously purchased West System Epoxy to use as filler for decorative knots and voids in the surface of the veneer. If I also use the epoxy to glue down the veneer to the subtop, will I have a wood movement problem as the seasons change? Both substrate and veneer are cherry and the grain will run parallel.
if the grain is ruing parallel then there should be no issue. the epoxy actually expands and contracts about the same speed as wood due to heat. as long as the wood is not getting wet it should work fine.
I just watched your video. Nicely done. I use a lot of totalboat, Jamestown is one of my sponsors. I noticed on your Tabletop epoxy how yellow your hardener was. I had one of the manufacturers tell me that is unavoidable. Well, it's not. It's caused by ultraviolet light and heat. If you like I can send you a picture of my tabletop hardener if you like and you can that it is clear as new. Give me your e-mail address and I will send it to you. My tabletop hardener is at least six months old. I have other epoxies that are several years old and still clear. It's real simple, keep it in total darkness and a cool place when not in use. I have an old refrigerator. I keep all my glues in it. The shelf life is greatly increased. I just thought I would pass it on. Take care, Larry
Thanks. It also depends on the hardener you use. The fast version comes fairly yellow where the slow is clear as can be. but that is on the high performance. The bar top and table top are glass clear.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Correct, but you can slow any of them down by going dark and cold. Take care, Larry
I'm actually working on ideals on restoring an old Stanley jointer that has deep cracks in it. would it be a good idea to use cactus juice then epoxy the big split
Cactus juice will not fill any voids. And it's not very good as an adhesive so if the crack is tight then cactus juice will work but if you have to clamp it shut then it will not work. In that case I would use a structural epoxy and work it as far in as I can. And then clamp it shut
Great video, thank you! I live in Panama and there are very few epoxy products available on the market here. I have a slab with large cracks at either end which I want to fill to strengthen the slab. There is a Table Top Epoxy product which I can get easily, my question is can I color and use table top finishing epoxy to fill the cracks aswell?
If you use a table top epoxy you just have to make sure that the crack isn't any bigger than about a quarter inch. If it gets too big then the epoxy can heat up and you get a runaway reaction. But you can still add a color to it.
I want to make a general work table for outdoors in Florida. I'd be using 2x4's , plywood. As a complete beginner what do I need to focus on to provide the table w some protection ?
That really depends. Is it going to be in the sun is it going to be in the rain or is it just going to be exposed to the temperature and moisture changes of the air. Also it depends on what kind of finish you want on it. most the time for me if it's going to be something that I'm going to be working on regularly dinging and putting defects into the wood is I'm working on it I go for something easy like a boiled linseed oil and paste wax that I have to reapply regularly but keeps the wood looking good. That doesn't work if it's going to be in the sun or directly in the rain. And that case you need a bit more protection like a penetrating epoxy and marine varnish.
Thanks for the video, how about the cheaper priced epoxy river table kits have you ever used any ? I saw 2 gallon kit for $89 and all good reviews, not many reviews but they were good, I’m just afraid to mess up my table top
I have not plaid with some of the newer cheap kits, but I have heard a few people like them. As long as you don't poor it thicker then recommended.
I doubt that I'll get an answer, mainly because it's too long ago. But, I have a cherry table top that has a1.25 inch round and .875 inch deep missing knot. It's on the under side but I have a concern that at some point it might affect the top. I'd like to fill it with epoxy but after watching your video I'm still confused. I've only used epoxy to glue things and my normal glue up is with Titebond. It's highly unlikely that I'd ever use a gallon, besides I'm too old to care about it lasting 10 years. Thank you.
Feel free to send me an email. I would be glad to talk it through. JamesWright@woodbywright.com
Question. I typically only do charcuterie and cutting boards that are no more than 1” deep. What do you recommend so I don’t have to make multiple pours? Seems the 1” is in between the 2” deep pours and the .25” table top pours. Thanks
I would probably use total boat thick set. It is relatively fast in comparison and can still do good thick poors
I just today experimented with epoxy on a serving platter and tried to seal the holes I had drilled into it with Gaffatape to fill them with epoxy then. Went well for 20 minutes then the seal started to fall. Have you ever seen that.? Is that typical for Gaffatape? Greetings from Germany
yes Gaff tape uses a rubber adhesive that does not hold well. same with duck tape. I like to use tyvac tape or Wrestling mat tape.
Thanks James good, good informative video. But, I was always under the impression that these had a shelf life shorter than a year. Was I misinformed?
Every epoxy is different and some of them are less than a year but most of the more expensive ones will last for years to decades. For instance West system has a 5-year shelf life but for the woodworker it will be functional for 10 years or more.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks James, the one I have been purchasing and wasting I might add is(due to over a year and bad) Alumalite.
I have an OLD loom that has gear teeth cut into the wooden cloth beam that are starting to disappear from age and use. In watching this I was looking for the product that would be able to repair the teeth to be able to use it again. Have an idea what to use?
A penetrating epoxy would help to harden the existing wood so that it would not wear it down as quickly. But if you want to actually recut the teeth you would have to make a mold to cast the epoxy in.
want to use a wooden bowl that is big enough for a bird bath. so its water all the time and sunshine. what would you recommend?
there is not much that will last long term but if you sealed it with a penetrating epoxy like : amzn.to/2Nf1N3h that will stabilize the wood so that it does not change too much outside. then coat it in a UV epoxy like this : amzn.to/37JTUMP that will protect it from the sun for a couple years. other wise after the penetrating epoxy you could use a marine varnish like this: amzn.to/2zPjzHn that is cheaper but wont last much more then a year or two at most. in eather case it would require a scrape down and re coat from time to time.
What should I use on applying epoxy resin, Foam Brush, Hair Brush, Sqeegee??
It all depends on the application. Most of the time I just pour it on and the form that is holding the work allocates the epoxy to where it needs to be. But for some things like penetrating epoxy I will use a brush to get it down into the wood. And for some epoxies like a table top I would use a squeegee to move it around to where it needs to be.
What finish would you recommend for a live edge dinner table got a family of 13? This of course will have lots of abuse and water spillage.
Also, have you heard of Stone Coat and of so is there a reason you don't use them?
I have used stone coat in the past. But found it to be a bit expensive and almost identical to the other ones I've used. But that was a while ago who knows what's changed now. There are lots and lots of other brands out there. I'm not a huge fan of the look of epoxy finish as it just looks like a plastic coat covering the wood. But it is one of the more durable finishes. The next most durable I would suggest would be a polyurethane. It will protect the wood beautifully and depending upon how many coats you put on can leave a really nice wood finish. The downside to epoxy and polyurethane is that they are hard to fix if something damages them. With epoxy you can sand it down and buff it out but with polyurethane you generally have to strip it and recode it. For my money I would go with a hard wax like Rubio Monaco. It is my favorite look of a finish it protects the wood from waters spills and other damage. And if the finish ever starts to rub out you just wipe on another coat like you would with a BLO. Incredibly easy to manage and I love the look of it. Unfortunately it's very expensive. That's what I used on my dining table that I made last year.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks for the detailed answer. The last kitchen table I refinished I ended up putting polyurethane on it. I liked the look of it but after a bit of time the wear really shows, from scratch marks, (children love playing with forks across a beautiful finish, I think it's pathological) and of course the normal wear from plates sliding, I wondered if there was something more durable.
I think polyurethane is good for things like dressers etc though and like the look of it.
I agree with how epoxy makes it look like a layer of plastic but I think there comes a point where amount of work vs amount little minions collide lol.
Thanks for this video!
@@mypony891 just keep in mind polyurethane and epoxy have about the same hardness. So if something scratches polyurethane it will probably also scratch epoxy. The nice thing about the epoxy is you can sand it and buff it back to a shine.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I did not know either of those. Thanks!
Is the 105 epoxy resin more flexible than polyester resin? I want to make a block of fiberglass that bends without easily breaking. Thanks!
I honestly do not know ad I have never done that much with polyester resin. but my guess would be that West system would be more brittle.
Hi James :) do you have any experience with westsystem exposed to high temperatures? (e.g. in hot summer, the temperature inside the car, which can reach up to 158 F). I've checked the technical specifications on their website and wanted to make sure if I read correctly that the deflection time starts with 118 F? I wanted to ask You becaue, You've glued to glue topic very well and maybe have some life experience with temperature ;) (thanks for great content)
I don't have experience with high temperatures. But I made an airplane a decade ago out of fiberglass and epoxy. And if I didn't put up a sunshield the cockpit we get really hot. I never had any structural problems inside with the epoxy layers.
Would it be worth it to make a workbench out of softwood and then some penetrating epoxy then plane the finish off? Im not sure how deep it penetrates but maybe it would become more dent resistant.
The penetrating epoxy on a softwood bench would only penetrate in a hundredth of an inch or so. So a shaving taken off the top would remove it all. Generally, a softwood bench is actually a good thing, particularly for a beginner. That way it won't dent up any of the work you're making.
Which epoxy would you recommend for filling knot holes in a hard wood floor on rough lumber that has been milled? I need something that the Bona Sealer and Traffic HD will adhere too. Any ideas?
If you're just feeling bug holes then most anything will do as long as it's thin enough to soak down into it. If it's a fast epoxy it might be too thick. As to finish adhesion they will all be right about the same. for me I would probably use whatever epoxy I have on hand that would be an hour or more in cure time.
I'm planning on using the west system 105 resin for sealing a wooden camper before I skin it with aluminum sheets. My concern is the epoxy softening in high temperatures as I live in Texas. The heat deflection temp. for this resin is 120F. Do you know what could potentially happen when the aluminum heats up to 150F or so? (which in turn conduct the temp to the epoxy which is in direct contact with)
I don't really know for sure. But if I had to guess I would say 150° would make the epoxy almost the consistency of Taffy
What is your opinion on wood fillers and/or wood putty?
I generally don't use wood fillers as I prefer to show off cracks and things of that nature than try and hide them. I've never been happy with most wood fillers. They attempt to hide imperfections and rarely do they ever do that generally ends up being a sign of "hey I'm not proud of this I'm trying to hide it." I would rather highlight it by filling it with a colored epoxy then try and match the color of the wood to make it disappear.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for responding so quickly. I was thinking of covering up finish nails and such. Love your personality by the way, your one of my favorite RUclipsrs!
Wow, I'd need some epoxy to stabilize my punky brain now... what would you recommend? Seriously, though, thanks for the info, I'll have to check what's available around here.
LOL glad I could help!
Any 2:1 marine epoxy resin + West 410 and West 404 filler can do it all. Fillers can be blended for custom strength and sandability. If using just 410 filler apply a sealer coat of pure epoxy on top for added durability.
I have several window sills on 120 YO home that are totally deteriorating. I'd like to build them out rather than tearing out the windows. Can THIXO do that job so that I can remold them into the sills? (Using grinders etc.) These are the 6-8 foot tall windows and its the exterior sills. How long to actually cure? Temperature restrictions (warm but not too cold or hot)?
Sorry - I went to their site and answered most of my questions but one thing I need to be able to do is form the sills by hand a little before they harden. Is there something I can use that it won't stick to to form the sills with?
for that you want Abatron WoodEpox amzn.to/32fXXNV First use a penitrating epoxy to solidify the wood and stop further rotting. then build out the missing wood with WoodEpox then you can sand, carve or scrape it just like wood.
Hi there. I am looking to made lids for some heavy duty glass vases I have. I was wondering what the best quality resin is out there that will best resemble glass. My goal is to try and make it seem like the lid came with the vase and wasn't made separately or "cheaply" if that makes sense? Thank you so much in advance for any advice!
the clearest epoxy I have worked with is ecopoxy liquid plastic. but it takes 3-4 days to harden up. amzn.to/2RbetKZ
Can you please tell me the kind of epoxy I need to fill small voids and checks in walnut. They aren't big but sometimes several in otherwise beautiful walnut slabs. Most holes are small so I don't wan to buy a whole lot of epoxy. Plus, I see some epoxy's that are gloss or high gloss, I don't know if that is what I need to fill walnut boards I want to make into Charcuterie Boards. And I don't know what is food safe. Thanks
All epoxies are going to be a high gloss when they dry. But you can sand them down to any finish you want. Usually I would recommend total boot high performance. But generally you have to buy that and at least a quart. And if you're just talking about bug holes and small cracks then you might be better off with getting a 60-minute epoxy from pretty much any store and mixing in the pigment you want with it.
Great video! Very informative. I have a large walnut beam I am using for a fireplace mantle, it has some cracks in it I want to fill. They are approximately 1/8" or less wide but some are pretty deep, what would recommend to use on them?
If you want clear I would use Total boat thick set. If you want to add die or pigment then I would use high Proformance with medium hardner
Awesome thanks for the quick reply! I plan on adding some color so Ill go with the high performance. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
I have one additional question for you, if I use the totalboat high performance can i fill the cracks up all at once or will I have to do multiple pours, since there is no way of really the exact depth of some of the cracks?
How epoxy resin are made....? Make a video on the manufacturing processes of resins...
that would be fun.
James, I have been led to believe that epoxy deteriorates when exposed to UV (Sun light). To stabilize the epoxy you need to apply something like a clear coat lacquer to protect the epoxy from UV it the project for out door use.
Is this true, and if so do you have any recommendations.
Yes that is correct for most. The common answer to that is marine varnish on top. You can also get UV resistant Epoxy. Eco-poxy sells some that I have used in the past.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you.
what are limitations wodd thickness for pouring?
i am planning to pour upto 1inch thick.
Is it ok with such a low thickness of wood?
If you use the thick set it's perfectly fine. But that's too thick for high performance or most fast setting epoxies. Most of those will start to boil if they get that thick.
What would you recommend for a really strong and longlasting mora or helle knife blank project ?
I would use High Proformance from total boat. It is my go to for that kind of work.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you so so much !
Where does Abatron epoxy fall on your list?
That is not really an adhesive as much as a filler. It has some great uses though.
Im in the process of replacing my 20 year old workbench top with 10/4 hard maple 4inches wide/thick and am considering using the west system epoxy if lieu of titebond glue. Do you have any experience using the west system with this type of a glue up? Since epoxy requires less clamping pressure, I am a little concerned of using too much clamping pressure which could lead to premature failures.
Any suggestions or advice will be greatly appreciated, i realize it will cost more but i have already budgeted for the incremental cost.
Thanks in advance,
Tgomez
That is what I use now when I laminate benches. West System or Total boat High performance. You do not need as much clamping pressure, but you will not over pressure them. Squeezeing out the glue is a myth. Just clamp tell the gaps are gone and you are good.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Appreciate the response.....
I have a piece of 3/4 pine that was pre-painted black, and then a 2D image was CNC'ed, roughly 1/8 inch deep. I want to fill, but not overflow, the CNC'ed areas with a metallic red epoxy. Which product/method would you suggest?? I am especially concerned about using a heat gun or torch to pop bubbles, because I don't want the black paint to peel.
If you mix the epoxy slowly then there are no bubbles in it that need to be popped. the thinner the epoxy you use that flatter you can get the surface and the more bubbles that come to the surface by themselves. but the longer it takes to cure and the more it soaks into he wood. meaning it might need to be topped off. the faster the epoxy the thicker it is and the more it is hard to get bubbles out. for me I would use High performance from total boat. it is half way between the two and you can get it bubble free if you are carful with mixing. feel free to email me if you have further questions.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Sorry for not being clearer on the bubbles issue. I wasn't really concerned about bubbles caused by mixing too fast. I was rather concerned about bubbles caused by air drawing up out of the wood and into the epoxy.
that is usually not a problem as the air generally does not come up into the epoxy. it may get trapped there but most of the time the epoxy seeps into the wood rather then the air into the epoxy. unless it is seals all around it is generally easer for the air in the wood to go out another way then through the epoxy.
Have you used Vinyl-ester resin to cover/protect wood? Specifically, the West Marine Hi-bond?
Im new with this things. I am no knowledge about this epoxy. I wanted to learn how beginners start to make things using epoxy. But i dont know how to use epoxy please help. What is the best material to use .
It all depends on what you want to make.
I gonna start with a table for my house . I like your videos . And it gives me interesting how to make epoxy table. But i dont now to start with. Thank so much for the help.
Looking for an epoxy to fill a small void in oak, in the 1/8” depth. Would a simple dual syringe 5 min be suitable? Or do I need to consider the thick type epoxy?
Yes for something like that I'd use 5 minute epoxy if you can find a syringe you can push it through then that would be great usually I put it on the surface and then poke it down in with a toothpick.
Wood By Wright How 2 THANK YOU
hye i need to know something
how i can fix bubbles in hard form of epoxy ...
i made a table but after dry there are some bubbles
After the epoxy is cured there's nothing you can do the bubbles are there permanently.
Perfect explai, 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
how do these compare to alumilite?
That is just a different brand. One is not better then the other
Thanks brother,, I appreciate the info ; can I use totalboat to do my countertops?!
Yes you can! yes they make Table top variety that will flow and give you a perfect glossy top. amzn.to/2S5C5RG
Wood By Wright How 2 thank you!!
I am very interested in West System epoxy resin, I want to use it to repair broken rackets. where can I order epoxy resin?
I usually order off of amazon. Though I have switched over to using total boat high performance amzn.to/3IpUz96
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank's sir
I will order West System epoxy resin to connect a broken racket. Does that mean you have been using the West Epoxy resin system for a long time?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo According to you, Which is better, between West System and Total?
I used West systems for around 10 years. but Total boat came out a few years ago, and in my testing it is a bit stronger and a bit cheaper.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo owww, thank you sir How do I order total epoxy resin? I had a bit of difficulty ordering it
I m from endiya kerala
Some help please. I just noticed 2 large cracks that appeared in a large epoxy resin wood table that I’m making. Any advice on how to fix it? I feel like ugly crying. It’s a 10 day old pour, 2 inch thick, still in its form.
feel free to send me pictures. there is an email in the about me tab or you can send me a contact form on my web site and I can reply. I would love to help you out.
I use the basic epoxy for my coffee table but when is dry is come sticky little bits if I put cup of coffee or any think I can't remove it easy is sticky i don't know why 😞😞 can anyone help me WHY PLS....
sorry I do nto know what you are asking. feel free to send me an email I would love to help.
Price per liter
I cover all of that in the glue test video. Most epoxies are pretty close but the cheapest ones are usually the most expensive per liter.
Total boat is very good check out the RUclips channel...TIPS FROM A SHIPWRIGHT..he used this product all the time .
Yep. In the wooden boat world it's basically the only thing around. Good stuff
Very interesting as all ways. BUT then bam out of the blue , you just casual mentioned O I built a 200 mph plane .you are a bit of a dark horse young james , prey tell us more
LOL yup i am a private Pilate one of these days i will build another one.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo wow .the planes name, it's not stanley by any stretch of the imagination
Lol. It was a Cozy Mark IV
Please practical demo iam bigenr
I have a lot of videos on that. It gets used quite a bit in my projects
4:00 That's what she said
You really should cover precautions when working with epoxy, it can give very nasty health problems if handled incorrectly.
Take this out off context! 9:24
There ie nothing "structural" about epoxy. The materials you use it with make structure
9:24 That's what she said