Fitting rear discs and pads to Hyundai i30 CRDi Blue Drive SE 2012 - 2017
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- Опубликовано: 25 апр 2020
- In this hobbyist video I explain in detail how to change the rear discs and pads on a Hyundai i30 CRDi Blue Drive SE from 2015.
It's a pretty simple job, but because can be daunting to be messing around with your cars brakes if you're never done it before I want to illustrate what's involved.
Note; I'm not a pro mechanic. I did build a kit car once so have some skills and decent tools - but notice how I don't use a torque wrench? I didn't have the measurements to hand - I'll go back and do that when I adjust the handbrake. 
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It's three years since you posted it but thanks so much for this video and the great camera angles. I will be doing this job on my Elantra GT (aka i30) tomorrow and this puts my heart at ease.
Still relevant 😁
Hope it goes well for you
Just done mine. Used a stepped spanner to get the bottom bolt out of calliper carrier. Worked great
Excellent video, just tackled this job on my drive and all seemed to go OK after referring to this vid. The bolt that secures the suspension arm was a bit of a hassle to get back in for both sides but managed it in the end, cheers for the info.
😁that's great, thanks for the feedback! Horrible cold night for fiddling about on the driveway though!
I have not done it for a long time watching this video just to catch up. Thanks.
Good work and nicely showing everything getting done 👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
Thanks, there are also tips in the comments from viewers worth considering.
Great video clear concise instructions
Thank you! This prepared me for sorting my dad's brakes, I know what to expect now 👍
Good luck!
@@PeteB all done, your video helped a lot. Thanks again!
@@jeeves555 brilliant! Glad to have helped and thanks for subscribing to the channel.
Very useful informative video. The tools list and compressor tool number are very good. Very detailed. I will use WD on the bolts and a bit more copper grease in a few places. Just about to tackle the job and save some money.
Hope it goes well!
Tabs on brake pads are wear indicators(one on each wheel),and you forgot to grease slider pins, otherwise good video,you always learn something from different videos!
Thanks for the tips!
Going to do my i30 when it stood raining, underseal and breaks. Great video
Hi Peter, good video really well done, re a few of the comments, last one meant you normally used to lubricate the back of the disc pads metal side with something like copper slip or a special brake lubricant can't remember it's name (so long ago) and the other point was tightening the suspension arm finally when the wheel was on and the car was back down on the tarmac under it's own weight. atb best rgds Will.
Makes sense! I used to do that on the back of the pads, not sure why I didn't bother on this occasion.
Nice work. Thanks for the useful video. I'm planning to change all my brakes on my Kia cee'd from 2013 . But i want to paint all the calipers and everything surrounding the wheels for protection against rust . And every time i will work at undercarriage i will give antitrust protection.
You can use the battery of the car to retract the caliper piston, just put some cable with small clamps and it will work very good ( i have done that last time I change the brakes pads) . I want to se more videos when you make repairs to your Hyundai. Keep the good job.
Thanks Daxyno - I don't do much work on the Hyundai as it (was) still under warranty and I don't have a lot of time unfortunately. We'll see what time brings now it's over 110k miles and out of warranty! Ta.
Small bit of advice, if you are going to tap a bolt, put the nut back on 2-3 thread turns and hit the nut. That way the bolt moves and the
thread won't get damaged. Obviously you need to take it off before it goes through the hole, but by then it's worked loose.
Great tip - thanks.
I agree. In this case the tip of the bolt was nicely tapered, and only light tapping was done. So it was no problem as we could see in this case. (No visible bolt deformation that could be near the thread zone diameter)
Brilliant video, I've got a Kia ceed and it looks very similar so will be changing the discs and pads shortly 😎
Thanks - good luck, let us know how it goes!
@@The-Tinkerer went really well, and was exactly the same procedure as it was for your Hyundai, thanks again 😎
Excellent video helped me tremendously. Keep up the Good work Many Thanks.😊
Thanks for your nice words.
Thanks for vid, I need to tackle this soon 🙂 , I'm gonna get a piston caliper retracting set
A tool well worth having in the collection. It makes it much easier.
Very helpfull for my Kia Sportage 2015... Great video, thx !!!
Glad it helped!
Good informative video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
świetny tutorial. Dzięki
Nie ma za co
Thanks a lot for the information.
You're welcome.
So helpful cheers mate
Glad it helped.
I would advise spraying with lubricant before undoing bolts! Thanks for posting.
As the car gets older that can be a benefit to us penetration oil. When using a decent socket set and being careful I try to avoid using it. Using a socket shaped exactly like the bolt helps prevent slippage. Stating the obvious: It's also important where you're spraying this stuff around the braking system - slippy lubricants don't go well with brakes. :)
great video thank you
Thanks. Glad it was useful.
Very useful, although as others have pointed out, if you have a cranked ring spanner you can undo that lower bolt on the brake yoke without having to disturb that suspension joint. I also pull out the caliper slide pins and check them for corrosion. They're not expensive to replace. If you go and collect the parts, open up the pads in the shop and check they have the pip on the back to stop the piston rotating. I've been offered ones that don't have the pip even though the motor factors tell me they're the right fit for my car. Finally, there is an online i30 owners club which is a mine of information about faults, repairs, maintenance etc.
Thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail. On Christmas morning too! Happy Xmas! 😁
@@PeteB My pleasure. I replaced rear pads on my car at 54,000 miles because they became much thinner on drivers side. I suspected the caliper was binding, but having fitted new pads they seem to be wearing evenly. I had to return Bendix pads because they didn't have pip on back of pad. Looked at Brembo pads, they didn't have it either. Went somewhere else and bought Pagid, which did have the pip and were supplied with new shims. As the car was still under warranty, I decided to fit Hyundai pads, the Pagids can wait until the next pad change. The fit and finish of the Hyundai pads is much better than after-market pads. Removing the disc retaining screws, I used a bit of wood long enough to rest on the ground so I had both hands free to turn the screwdriver. One to turn, one to push the screwdriver against the screw so it doesn't slip out.
I recently acquired this model, having had the earlier model, some aspects of the brakes are the same, and one aspect warrants mention. The thin stainless steel shims that the brake shoes slide in are stainless so as to try and prevent the sliding faces corroding solid to one another and seizing. They mostly achieve this well, but as they get older I have found a tendency for rust to build up behind the shims and that then tightens up the gap for the prong on the pad to slide in, and this can be enough to make the brakes seize. I have found a wire brush as per your actions is not sufficient to remove this corrosion product and a file is needed to polish up the surfaces that the stainless shim is in contact with. I then grease these surfaces with brake grease (I use ceramic grease rather than copaslip)
Great tips, thanks
At 7:00 before removing caliper you can wedge a flat screwdriver to expand the caliper piston, otherwise you need a big wrench of wind back caliper tool. I use a screwdriver method even though I own the wind back tool.
Yes but this would not work with a caliber with integrated parking brake. Needs to be screwed and pushed at the same time
good one i did too but mine brake caliper bolt broke because of corrosion bit messy job but at the end i learn how to do it ;)
Ouch, never fun dealing with snapped bolts! Well done.
I used to be a pro at rounding off and snapping bolts but figured ways over time to make it less likely. Better fitting sockets, gently increase pressure, penetrating oil overnight, that kind of thing.
Thanks for this. The suspension arm restricting access to the carrier bolt really annoyed me!
You an me both! Someone has put a tip about how to tackle that better in the comments.
Yes you done a good job the only thing I can say when you had the brake off perhaps you could have re greased the slider pins .
Thanks for the tip!
Just one advice: always change brake pad fitting kit shims when you doing brake job!
Thanks for the feedback - will do next time.
I'm going to give this a go. One question, where is a good point to place the axle stands. I have a scissor jack to raise. Thank you.
Hi Andrew - I usually go for the chassis mounts used during manufacturing. The manual should hopefully point you to safe jacking points - just don't jack up on and crush the cills like so many people do :( Good luck!
Make more videos on cars 👍👍
Ha! I have a bunch of work to do on my cars so maybe I will. Thanks.
A small hint: use a small amount of oil on every thread, so they will not seeze until next time.
Super 👍🏽
Great video thank you! I wonder if you can help me :) ...I have bought mine a month ago which is same model and engine as yours and i notice a vibration on the steering wheel when the car on idle also the car vibrates and shake a little when engine stops at a traffic light(start stop system). I did take it to hyundai dealer which said its normal in this car, Just wondering if you experience this vibration with yours too? Thanks a lot .
Thanks for the kind comment. Ours does not vibrate on idle as you describe that I've noticed...and that's the kind of thing I would notice. Start stop, again it seems like any other car I've driven with that technology - couldn't say there's any disconcerting wobble. I'd hazard a guess at engine mounts maybe, but I'm not expert on these cars. I'll try to remember to note to check next time I drive it.
@@The-Tinkerer Thanks for your reply really appreciated, It's good to know I'm not just imagining it as the dealer mechanic said. I was doubting the engine mounts too, Will take it to a garage on Monday. Thanks again:)
..And, you can get the nut out with an offset ring 14mm spanner. I've done this without taking the suspension bolt out, fiddly, but it's 'do-able'.
You can? I really couldn't see how the angle would work. Sometimes it's just less faff to dismantle everything! ;)
If you use a 14mm swan neck spanner you dont have to remove the suspension arm bolt or move the arm to access the lower recessed 14mm caliper carrier bolt
Great tip, thanks!
Can you let me know please if you can just push the calliper piston in flat with multi grips or do you need the special tool to thread it into the calliper?
Would appreciate a speedy response
HI Mike, I have a tool specifically designed for various types of callers. It's designed to push the cylinder in with uniform pressure. They're not too expensive and should be available from your local motor supplies co. I was advised it's not great trying to use grips.
@@CloudConstruct thanks mate, appreciate it a lot
Great guide didn’t you have to undo the handbrake cable?
Umm...I don't recall doing so?
Do you know is it same job for doing rear brakes to Kia Ceed 2013?
Because Kia and Hyundai shares pretty much stuff so maybe it's same design there...
Just asking, because i have to change rear discs and pads to my Kia and you made really informative video so hopefully it's same brakes and that would be easy job, because this video.
I'm sorry, I've never owned a Kia - although I believe you're right they share many components. Let us know how you get on! Thanks.
Here you go: And here is the procedure in a service manual with illustrations (Kia Cee'd seems identical to the i30). Note that there is a clip (B) you can remove on the hand brake cable to remove the hand brake cable (A) from the actuator arm connecting to the brake piston: www.kceed.com/rear_disc_brake_repair_procedures-1258.html I have no idea why the manual tells you to remove the brake hose eyebolt (C)
At 4:57, how to get suspension out of the way, is use a pry bar.
I don't like forcing the bushes etc too much if I can help it. Probably doesn't make a great deal of difference - but someone else did comment a more professional way of doing it to me.
where did you put your axle stands, I can see where to put them
I'd check your manual or www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=23263.0
Nice job filming and brake job.
Where’s the wheel alignment, your car is out of alignment, now that you fiddled with the hub control arm.
Not required. There are no alignment adjustments on this.
@@PeteB I’m sorry but yes there is. Did you see how you changed the wheels toe, when you tried to reconnect the control arm?
Rule number 1: when you mess with suspension links and control arm etc, wheel alignment is required…
did you not have to screw the brake piston into the calliper to adjust the handbrake?
I got away without needing to adjust the handbrake.
Anyone else struggle to get the lower suspension arm bolt back in after changing the discs? 🥴😢
How much time did all of this take?
Twice as long as it ought to due to messing around filming it! 🤣Like all jobs, take your time, do it right. I'd set aside 2-3 hours as an amateur.
was there any hand brake pads?
Hi - no, just the one set of pads.
@@CloudConstruct then how your handbrake works? Which year make us yours?
I have 2009 I30 petrol and it needs changing rear brake discs, thus saw your video. I asked National tyre, they said mine also has handbrake pads, not sure tho yet until I take the disc off
Kala the cable attaches to the spring section on the Caliper you can see around 20mins. The 09 model is an older design so possibly different.
@@kala5852 Hi, this car has mechanical hand brake (like my Kia ceed 2012). Maybe electronic one has the extra pads. But I doubt it...
@@kala5852 Hi Kala, I have had both models of car, the older model like yours has a small drum brake inside the centre of the disc that the normal brakes work on. This drum brake is the handbrake and requires a separate set of shoes for it to operate, but they need replaced far less than the main pads. however if the linkage seizes then they can wear quite quickly.
cruze diesel i think it means i got the i30 crdi 2l
How much did this all cost?
Sorry, I can’t remember. I bought the parts from eurocarparts and they change their prices and BS sale discounts all the time.
Ok, no problem, mine need changing and I’m just pricing it all up
@@PeteB carparts4less is the same company as eurocarparts and the discounts vary between the two so worth checking both out.
@@julianmuirhead7840 indeed it is! Good tip, I sometimes forget to check both.
Gde fe i c li mi
Hard to select on scan tool ad well 😂😂
Bad job! It is necessary to lubricate the ends of the brake pads, tighten the sealant block nut only under the car's own weight!
Vitaliy AVT thanks for your feedback. Can you elaborate as I do not understand. Why do you mean by ends of a brake pads? Also what is a sealant block nut? Thinking you’re using none British terminology maybe? I don’t see how anything can be tightened up under the cars weight on a driveway.
Biggest BS is when he me tiobs backstreet garage don't use copper slick, lol, what a stupid think to say.
The ones I've observed personally working on my cars didn't.
@@The-Tinkerer When I was a home mechanic I never used copper grease, wire brush and brake cleaner.
In my first year in college I was taught to use copper grease, wire brush and brake cleaner when doing brake jobs.
So if a mechanic doesn't use these 3 aids when doing a brake job, then they clearly not been to college at all.
If you want get more serious you can use a DTI gauge to measure brake disc runout, this will establish if you need new discs or if you can keep your old discs. Though I doubt any garage would do these measurements, as they would prefer to change brake disc to make more money.
After replacing brake discs, the first 1k miles you should brake gently and never slams the brakes, otherwise it might cause glazing of the pads. Braking gently helps bed them in.
@@rambogambo5525 thanks for your insight and taking time to share your knowledge.
A lot of bad habits not good practice
Thanks for the feedback, please elaborate and educate us how to improve. Thanks!