After following this video and being a little creative. I got my crankshaft seal replaced after 2 years of my bike not running. First kick after replacement and it started. Thanks a lot👍
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes id also like to mention I saved $1000. My local shop wanted that much when all it took was a $20 seal and a little bit of my time.
Thank you for the video. I just had to replace my 2016 Beta 250 RR wet side crank seal last night. I did save and reuse the metal collar and I got it out without damaging it with a magnet. Worked perfectly.
Must do this on my own beta actually..just wondering was there much difference doing it on the beta or was it basically the same as shown here on the KTM?
@@martincantwell2557 It was identical to this KTM. I used a magnet to remove the collar and some 1.5 sch pvc that fit the OD of the seal to drive the seal back in.
Thank you so much. Just follow your step, i have problem on the crankshaft gear...i took off the nut, but the gear still not want to come off, is that a usual case? How can I get it off? And i feel the crankshaft have some movement but not sure before take off the gear.
Lots of good info here! I’m collecting tools to start this project on a ‘09 300. What is the diameter of the pipe or socket you are using to drive in the seal?
Honestly I don’t remember. I want to say it was somewhere between 27-30mm. I did find that a heavy duty impact socket works better than the pipe. Also I think MotionPro sells a seal driver kit for this exact purpose.
Thanks 🙏🏻 Off the top of my head you’ll need the clutch cover gasket, the metal keeper washer on the clutch stack, oil, the crank seal, metal collar and the rubber o-ring. I’d also grab one of those motion pro gear jammers and a torque wrench if you don’t have them. The metal pipe works for driving in the seal but if you have some large impact sockets that are the size of the seal that will work better. Otherwise good luck!! It’s not so bad once you get in there.
Very helpful, quality video. Just so some of you know, the small KTM bike I'm working on actually has typical threads on the crankshaft end bolt, not left-handed threads.
I don't let nobody work on my stuff, because most people don't have a clue, like even people that know their shit and they know what they're doing, they still don't have a clue, I would definitely let you work on my stuff, just for the fact that you recognized and also had a simple solution to prevent something that really wouldn't even matter, I'm speaking of how you put the shop towel on clutch tool, most professionals and unprofessionals wouldn't even recognize that being an issue or anything to be concerned about, but me, I would be so I would do the same thing you did, so I must say , you have an eye , a brain, and most importantly you have a clue, like I said, most people and even most professionals don't have a damn clue, good video and nice work
I agree with this statement. I've had shops who've been in business for decades go ahead and fuck my shit up. Fuel pump was done and tell me why I had to go back to them 3 times for fuel to stop splashing out of my tank or spilling out of my filler neck. Shit like that. Or going and buying all 4 brake rotors and pads and fluid then having a reputable reliable mechanic put them on because I didn't have the time. Dude took the fucking rotors back, got the money and did my pads while telling me everything is new 😂. Fuck dude I might as well do EVERYTHING myself.
Hi thank's for the video. Did replacing this seal fix the problem? I saw something in the video that didn't look right at 10:49 we see the old seal and at 14:18 we see the new seal BUT it is tapped in too far. This will cause the seals inner lip to not sit on the spacer collar. Call me pedantic but the seal sits on the very end of the collar stock when the seal is flush. What do you think .....
The seal worked fine. I did end up bending one seal a little too much so I pulled it out and put in a different one during this project as I recall but the seal worked fine.
"but since intelligence is eluding me today...", i think that self sarcasm and humor is a much stronger sign of high intelligence than remembering the optimal order of actions in a crank seal replacement sequence...., btw, thanks for the enlightening video.
If my transmission oil smells fuel is my crank seal bad? My bike also just starts for like 5 seconds and then dies if I get it to run it runs very bad and has high idle. I have no other symptoms. The compression is good and my carburetor is clean and tuned right. I have also replaced the membrane and checked for any leaks.
I would doubt that it’s the crank seal. When the fuel goes into the crank side it’s like a heavy mist. It has to coat the inside of the cylinder wall and the crank bearings but it doesn’t usually pool up in the bottom of the crank side so I don’t see how enough gas could get in the trans oil to cause that problem. As for what the actual problem is, I’m not sure I could say without looking at it. It sounds like a carb issue unless air is somehow able to get in pat the carb. Have you checked the spark?
Which other crank seal? What bike are you working on. There’s a seal and an oring but you’d want to replace both of them as well as the metal collar while you’re in there.
Has the bike been smoking bad for a while and fowling plugs? That’s usually the biggest sign that it’s the crank seal. Mine ran fine up until the plug fouled. It smoked like crazy but it didn’t stop running. That and having gas in the gear oil wouldn’t make it run any different. At least not at first.
There wasn’t an oring on this bike. The only one I see in the diagram is the one on the clutch slave cylinder. There’s no reason to have an oring anywhere else on the clutch.
Got a question about the wet/clutch side crank seal. I took mine apart for a bike I'm rebuilding for my nephew pw80. The oil seal has the open side/ spring side towards the clutch side/ facing outwards. Makes sense because of the transmission oil. But would it be hard to replace that seal pulling and driving in and out? Don't really wanna split the cases. Or should I pull and flip the seal? Lol
i have a yz 125-1985 when i start it it smokes like crazy much, white/blue smoke. there is also less gearbox oil now. do i need to change crankshaft seal?
That would be my guess. Usually the worst of the smoke will go away after about five minutes once the oil burns off that leaked into the crank side. It’s always going to smoke since it’s a two stroke but if you find it lessens after a few minutes it’s usually the crank seal.
It’s usually the clutch side seal. There isn’t fluid on the flywheel side so you don’t need to worry about it leaking into the crank. If anything you’d see the premix oil leaking out of the seal on the flywheel side of it was bad.
The clutch spring bolts should not be very tight, so they should come off easy. We often do use a power wrench to remove them just to save time. You want to be sure you loosen them in a pattern so you don't put stress on the plates. I would not recommend using an air gun to tighten them, you'll way over torque them. For the clutch basket nut, you'll need a tool anyway to torque it back up so recommend getting one either way.
No that’s not going to tell you anything. The crank sits below the piston on the transmission side of the crank. Best way to tell is if your bike is smoking way too much
Good catch. I didn’t call it out and I should have. I used it around the rubber seal that goes between the clutch cover and the power valve cover where the power valve connecting rod goes through.
It’s a pretty common problem. Hope the video helps. It’s not too hard once you get in there. Getting the seal to set in straight is probably the hardest part. I’d recommend getting an actual seal driver or even a large impact socket because that pipe didn’t work all that well.
Hey, I think my bike may have a bad seal too, it doesn’t splooge really, or foul plugs, but it has started smelling pretty bad and smoking even when the bike is off some. Do you think this seal is the problem? And also, what can I do to get away with not buying a pair of those clutch pliars? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
Have you changed premix brands or ratios? If it’s burning gear oil it’ll smell like an old diesel more than a two stroke. It might be easier to tell if you notice you’re gear oil levels getting low. Ultimately you can let it get really bad if it is the crank seal and it won’t matter as long as the bike still has oil in it. Sometimes that’s the easiest way to really narrow down what the problem is. Sadly there’s no way to get around needing the clutch tool :/
Thanks, I currently have it all apart and have the seal and o ring but not the metal collar, and I can’t find one online, can you please send the part number? I also was just able to put a 2x4 between the spokes to get around not having the clutch tool :) thanks
Ya sorry about that. When I was editing this together I totally forgot to put in the part about the push rod and throw out bearing. Definitely need to put those back in.
Thanks buddy, exactly what I wanted. I'd give you two thumbs up if you listed factory part numbers and torques in the description... But that's cause I'm lazy haha. Thanks for the vid.
The seal on the other side sits between the crank and the stator but it doesn’t stop any oil from getting into the crank side so unless it’s leaking which isn’t very common I’d just leave it. It’s really just there to keep the oil that you put in the premix from making a mess of the stator.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes awsome, I'm balls deep into a 2001 ktm 200 mxc and I'm learning as I go. I'm glad there's content like this cause I would have torn everything apart lol thanx bro
Thanks 🙏🏻 I want to say they are 9 inch pounds. It’s not much but I’m not sure without looking it up in the manual. I torque them down wrist tight with one hand and that seems to be enough that they stay in and it doesn’t leak. That’s probably not very helpful haha I really only worry about torque specs for the clutch hub nut and the crank nut. The rest are done by feel :)
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes as long as the bolt don’t keep turning with out tightening there’s nothing to worry about ay 😬 😅😅. il be subscribing anyways brother ✅..🙌🇬🇧
I'm trying to do mine right and and the new seal will literally not go in. I have tried to freeze it, heat the case, grease, new seal, everything. It just keeps goin in a bit one side and stopping the other side from going more. Any tips?? Insanely frustrating.
That’s probably the hardest part of this whole project. They fit really tight. Assuming you have the right seal I like to use a large impact socket and a rubber mallet. It’s pretty difficult to get it to seat evenly. There’s no real trick that I know of unfortunately other than just keep trying. Good luck man! It’ll go in.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes trying that method now. I already messed up a seal because of it going a little crooked and trying to get passed that point. It’s definitely the right seal, just don’t understand how it could be so low tolerance
As I recall mine started a little crooked and straightened out as it went in. I used lighter taps around the edges of the socket to get it started. Hitting it evenly enough with one hit to get it started straight is almost impossible.
Hoping this seal will finally get my 1997 Honda QR50 up and running! 🤞Question - looks like you have this seal with open side away from the oil, I always thought the open side faced the oil it was containing?
That’s a good question. I put the seal in the same way it came out originally and it didn’t smoke like it was before so I’m confident I got it in right. But ya I see how that seems weird. Maybe they made this seal different. I honestly didn’t look at the seal very closely to see if there’s was anything different about it.
Well after much head scratching and researching and finding there were 67 schools of thought as to which way the seal was installed, I put it in the same way 🤣 spring towards the crank case. Immediately helped my little 1997 Honda QR50 - kids are loving it 👌
Great video! I hadn’t even thought about this seal leaking, but mine might be (just thought maybe carb was too rich). I’m doing counter shaft seal, and radiator fan soon, so might as well do this too.
Thanks! It’s a regular problem and it’s not that hard to do especially if your already in there. I’d recommend getting a better seal diver though. It’s a little difficult to get that thing started.
So I’ve had to do this a few times now and that’s definitely the hardest part. In the video I used a piece of copper pipe but since then I’ve found it’s easier to use a large impact socket because it’s shorter and the edge that hits the seal is blunt. Unless you split the case it’s just a pain in the ass if you have to work around the end of the crank. Also use OEM seals. I used some of the after market seals and they went out after a couple rides.
Great video. One very important thing. Please leave that oil check bolt alone. It's probably the most commonly stripped bolt on these bikes. I just stripped mine last week. Just drain the oil with the drain bolt and measure out 0.8 liters of oil every time you do a change.
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
After following this video and being a little creative. I got my crankshaft seal replaced after 2 years of my bike not running. First kick after replacement and it started. Thanks a lot👍
That’s awesome! Congrats! It seems like a big project going into it but once you have it apart it’s not so bad. Glad the video helped!
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes id also like to mention I saved $1000. My local shop wanted that much when all it took was a $20 seal and a little bit of my time.
That’s crazy! Glad you were able to save some money!
Dude awesome vid awesome detail especially when you mentioned the crank nut was left hand threaded... That's gonna save me for sure
Thank you for the video. I just had to replace my 2016 Beta 250 RR wet side crank seal last night. I did save and reuse the metal collar and I got it out without damaging it with a magnet. Worked perfectly.
Awesome! Glad it worked out.
Must do this on my own beta actually..just wondering was there much difference doing it on the beta or was it basically the same as shown here on the KTM?
I can’t say I’ve done one on a beta two stroke but it’s the same basic idea.
@@martincantwell2557 It was identical to this KTM. I used a magnet to remove the collar and some 1.5 sch pvc that fit the OD of the seal to drive the seal back in.
Thank you so much.
Just follow your step, i have problem on the crankshaft gear...i took off the nut, but the gear still not want to come off, is that a usual case? How can I get it off?
And i feel the crankshaft have some movement but not sure before take off the gear.
Lots of good info here! I’m collecting tools to start this project on a ‘09 300. What is the diameter of the pipe or socket you are using to drive in the seal?
Honestly I don’t remember. I want to say it was somewhere between 27-30mm. I did find that a heavy duty impact socket works better than the pipe. Also I think MotionPro sells a seal driver kit for this exact purpose.
Great video, mine just went and will be doing this this week. Any chance you can post a parts list?
Thanks 🙏🏻 Off the top of my head you’ll need the clutch cover gasket, the metal keeper washer on the clutch stack, oil, the crank seal, metal collar and the rubber o-ring. I’d also grab one of those motion pro gear jammers and a torque wrench if you don’t have them. The metal pipe works for driving in the seal but if you have some large impact sockets that are the size of the seal that will work better. Otherwise good luck!! It’s not so bad once you get in there.
Very helpful, quality video. Just so some of you know, the small KTM bike I'm working on actually has typical threads on the crankshaft end bolt, not left-handed threads.
I don't let nobody work on my stuff, because most people don't have a clue, like even people that know their shit and they know what they're doing, they still don't have a clue, I would definitely let you work on my stuff, just for the fact that you recognized and also had a simple solution to prevent something that really wouldn't even matter, I'm speaking of how you put the shop towel on clutch tool, most professionals and unprofessionals wouldn't even recognize that being an issue or anything to be concerned about, but me, I would be so I would do the same thing you did, so I must say , you have an eye , a brain, and most importantly you have a clue, like I said, most people and even most professionals don't have a damn clue, good video and nice work
I agree with this statement. I've had shops who've been in business for decades go ahead and fuck my shit up. Fuel pump was done and tell me why I had to go back to them 3 times for fuel to stop splashing out of my tank or spilling out of my filler neck. Shit like that. Or going and buying all 4 brake rotors and pads and fluid then having a reputable reliable mechanic put them on because I didn't have the time. Dude took the fucking rotors back, got the money and did my pads while telling me everything is new 😂. Fuck dude I might as well do EVERYTHING myself.
Hi thank's for the video. Did replacing this seal fix the problem? I saw something in the video that didn't look right at 10:49 we see the old seal and at 14:18 we see the new seal BUT it is tapped in too far. This will cause the seals inner lip to not sit on the spacer collar. Call me pedantic but the seal sits on the very end of the collar stock when the seal is flush. What do you think .....
The seal worked fine. I did end up bending one seal a little too much so I pulled it out and put in a different one during this project as I recall but the seal worked fine.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes Great ho hear, I am doing the exact same job today. Made the clutch holding tool yesterday. Thanks for your reply :)
"but since intelligence is eluding me today...", i think that self sarcasm and humor is a much stronger sign of high intelligence than remembering the optimal order of actions in a crank seal replacement sequence...., btw, thanks for the enlightening video.
Haha 😂 well I appreciate that! Hope it was helpful!
Well did it start and run.
If my transmission oil smells fuel is my crank seal bad? My bike also just starts for like 5 seconds and then dies if I get it to run it runs very bad and has high idle. I have no other symptoms. The compression is good and my carburetor is clean and tuned right. I have also replaced the membrane and checked for any leaks.
I would doubt that it’s the crank seal. When the fuel goes into the crank side it’s like a heavy mist. It has to coat the inside of the cylinder wall and the crank bearings but it doesn’t usually pool up in the bottom of the crank side so I don’t see how enough gas could get in the trans oil to cause that problem. As for what the actual problem is, I’m not sure I could say without looking at it. It sounds like a carb issue unless air is somehow able to get in pat the carb. Have you checked the spark?
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes yes, i have checked the spark. Could it be the other crank seal?
Which other crank seal? What bike are you working on. There’s a seal and an oring but you’d want to replace both of them as well as the metal collar while you’re in there.
Has the bike been smoking bad for a while and fowling plugs? That’s usually the biggest sign that it’s the crank seal. Mine ran fine up until the plug fouled. It smoked like crazy but it didn’t stop running. That and having gas in the gear oil wouldn’t make it run any different. At least not at first.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes ok
Thanks for the vid, in the parts diagram it says there's an oring behind the clutch, did u see one ?
There wasn’t an oring on this bike. The only one I see in the diagram is the one on the clutch slave cylinder. There’s no reason to have an oring anywhere else on the clutch.
i got a 2007 300 exc and need to do this ok thanks for the reply
Ya for sure! I’ve split the case on an 07 and it’s the same process.
Got a question about the wet/clutch side crank seal. I took mine apart for a bike I'm rebuilding for my nephew pw80. The oil seal has the open side/ spring side towards the clutch side/ facing outwards. Makes sense because of the transmission oil. But would it be hard to replace that seal pulling and driving in and out? Don't really wanna split the cases. Or should I pull and flip the seal? Lol
i have a yz 125-1985 when i start it it smokes like crazy much, white/blue smoke. there is also less gearbox oil now. do i need to change crankshaft seal?
That would be my guess. Usually the worst of the smoke will go away after about five minutes once the oil burns off that leaked into the crank side. It’s always going to smoke since it’s a two stroke but if you find it lessens after a few minutes it’s usually the crank seal.
Is the clutch side seal the usual one to go bad? What about the flywheel side seal?
It’s usually the clutch side seal. There isn’t fluid on the flywheel side so you don’t need to worry about it leaking into the crank. If anything you’d see the premix oil leaking out of the seal on the flywheel side of it was bad.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes okay perfect, thanks very much 👍 great video it's exactly what is going on with my bike, so much spooge
Is it ok to use an impact gun to take the clutch and crank gear nuts off?
The clutch spring bolts should not be very tight, so they should come off easy. We often do use a power wrench to remove them just to save time. You want to be sure you loosen them in a pattern so you don't put stress on the plates. I would not recommend using an air gun to tighten them, you'll way over torque them.
For the clutch basket nut, you'll need a tool anyway to torque it back up so recommend getting one either way.
Will this show up in a leak down test. What year model is this bike?
No that’s not going to tell you anything. The crank sits below the piston on the transmission side of the crank. Best way to tell is if your bike is smoking way too much
11.40 what is the proper name for that collar
The manual calls it a spacer sleeve
The motion pro gear jammer is sold out. Any other way to jam the gear?
The old fashioned way to do it is just put a large screwdriver between the gears as you turn the bolt.
Take the spark plug out and fill the cylinder with a non abrasive string so it can’t reach too dead center
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes dont use a screwdriver ever------a small coin is much better , the metal coin is a softer metal than the gears so no damage
What the point of the gasket maker if you didn’t use it?
Good catch. I didn’t call it out and I should have. I used it around the rubber seal that goes between the clutch cover and the power valve cover where the power valve connecting rod goes through.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes gotcha bro. I need to do this to my bike it’s smoking pretty bad
It’s a pretty common problem. Hope the video helps. It’s not too hard once you get in there. Getting the seal to set in straight is probably the hardest part. I’d recommend getting an actual seal driver or even a large impact socket because that pipe didn’t work all that well.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes will do thanks for the video by the way
Hey, I think my bike may have a bad seal too, it doesn’t splooge really, or foul plugs, but it has started smelling pretty bad and smoking even when the bike is off some. Do you think this seal is the problem? And also, what can I do to get away with not buying a pair of those clutch pliars? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
Have you changed premix brands or ratios? If it’s burning gear oil it’ll smell like an old diesel more than a two stroke. It might be easier to tell if you notice you’re gear oil levels getting low. Ultimately you can let it get really bad if it is the crank seal and it won’t matter as long as the bike still has oil in it. Sometimes that’s the easiest way to really narrow down what the problem is. Sadly there’s no way to get around needing the clutch tool :/
Thanks, I currently have it all apart and have the seal and o ring but not the metal collar, and I can’t find one online, can you please send the part number?
I also was just able to put a 2x4 between the spokes to get around not having the clutch tool :) thanks
Great video & job on that xcw. Subbed up. Gotta still obtain a ton of tools in order to tackle my KX in the future
Great video, but did you forget the clutch rod? This is actually going to help a lot. Thanks
Ya sorry about that. When I was editing this together I totally forgot to put in the part about the push rod and throw out bearing. Definitely need to put those back in.
Thanks buddy, exactly what I wanted. I'd give you two thumbs up if you listed factory part numbers and torques in the description... But that's cause I'm lazy haha. Thanks for the vid.
Glad it helped! That’s actually a really good idea. I’ll try to make a point of adding in at least the OEM part numbers from now on.
Hey isn't their a seal on the other side of the motor? Should I just do the right side seal, or both?
The seal on the other side sits between the crank and the stator but it doesn’t stop any oil from getting into the crank side so unless it’s leaking which isn’t very common I’d just leave it. It’s really just there to keep the oil that you put in the premix from making a mess of the stator.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes awsome, I'm balls deep into a 2001 ktm 200 mxc and I'm learning as I go. I'm glad there's content like this cause I would have torn everything apart lol thanx bro
Haha 😂 glad it helped! I’ve been there many times.
Good in depth video there mate 🙌 what torque specs was the inner clutch cover and clutch basket screws ?
Thanks 🙏🏻 I want to say they are 9 inch pounds. It’s not much but I’m not sure without looking it up in the manual. I torque them down wrist tight with one hand and that seems to be enough that they stay in and it doesn’t leak. That’s probably not very helpful haha I really only worry about torque specs for the clutch hub nut and the crank nut. The rest are done by feel :)
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes as long as the bolt don’t keep turning with out tightening there’s nothing to worry about ay 😬 😅😅. il be subscribing anyways brother ✅..🙌🇬🇧
Haha true that. I was a mechanic for a lot of years so I’ve had a chance to develop the feeling for it. Appreciate the subscribe 💪🏻🤘🏻🔥
My bike has now power at 1 e gear ktm 85 do you know the problem ?
Hey man I know this video was a while ago but did you drain the oil in it or?
Hey! Thanks for asking. I guess I forgot to show that part. Yes I drained the gear oil and the coolant before I took off the clutch cover.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes ok good to know thanks for replying
For sure. Good luck with the project!
whats that blue gear tool?
It’s a motion pro gear jammer
Great vid and got to do mine this weekend on my 22 beta 300rr so will be watching this as I do it 👍👍
I'm trying to do mine right and and the new seal will literally not go in. I have tried to freeze it, heat the case, grease, new seal, everything. It just keeps goin in a bit one side and stopping the other side from going more. Any tips?? Insanely frustrating.
That’s probably the hardest part of this whole project. They fit really tight. Assuming you have the right seal I like to use a large impact socket and a rubber mallet. It’s pretty difficult to get it to seat evenly. There’s no real trick that I know of unfortunately other than just keep trying. Good luck man! It’ll go in.
is it going staright in.Have you tried to drive it in with something round as shown in the video.
@@dirtbiker9687 I’m using a socket the perfect size. It just won’t go in straight with the first hit and it’s messed up if it goes even slightly off.
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes trying that method now. I already messed up a seal because of it going a little crooked and trying to get passed that point. It’s definitely the right seal, just don’t understand how it could be so low tolerance
As I recall mine started a little crooked and straightened out as it went in. I used lighter taps around the edges of the socket to get it started. Hitting it evenly enough with one hit to get it started straight is almost impossible.
Hoping this seal will finally get my 1997 Honda QR50 up and running! 🤞Question - looks like you have this seal with open side away from the oil, I always thought the open side faced the oil it was containing?
That’s a good question. I put the seal in the same way it came out originally and it didn’t smoke like it was before so I’m confident I got it in right. But ya I see how that seems weird. Maybe they made this seal different. I honestly didn’t look at the seal very closely to see if there’s was anything different about it.
Well after much head scratching and researching and finding there were 67 schools of thought as to which way the seal was installed, I put it in the same way 🤣 spring towards the crank case. Immediately helped my little 1997 Honda QR50 - kids are loving it 👌
The film jumped just as you knocked the seal in What happened?
Nothing. The seal went in fine. Just try to edit out anything that’s not necessary to make the video shorter.
Great video!
I hadn’t even thought about this seal leaking, but mine might be (just thought maybe carb was too rich).
I’m doing counter shaft seal, and radiator fan soon, so might as well do this too.
Thanks! It’s a regular problem and it’s not that hard to do especially if your already in there. I’d recommend getting a better seal diver though. It’s a little difficult to get that thing started.
What kit is that
I’m not sure what kit you’re referring to. The parts were all bought individually.
did you forget to put back the bearing rod?
Haha I did when I was filing this. I remember before I got it all back together. 🤦🏼♂️
Excellent video many thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve never seen a two stroke spark plug like that. My Yamaha won’t even start without a clean spark plug
It was past time for a fix 😃
u frogot the coolant at the end
Good video
I'm having a hard time getting the seal in without damaging it on the 3rd one now
So I’ve had to do this a few times now and that’s definitely the hardest part. In the video I used a piece of copper pipe but since then I’ve found it’s easier to use a large impact socket because it’s shorter and the edge that hits the seal is blunt. Unless you split the case it’s just a pain in the ass if you have to work around the end of the crank. Also use OEM seals. I used some of the after market seals and they went out after a couple rides.
Great video. One very important thing. Please leave that oil check bolt alone. It's probably the most commonly stripped bolt on these bikes. I just stripped mine last week. Just drain the oil with the drain bolt and measure out 0.8 liters of oil every time you do a change.
ALL 2 STROKES ARE NOT SAME. Kx have a lip won't cone out without splitting case
Sounds like a lot more work.
Yea i definitly need to replace this damn seal🤦🏽♂️
Or just let it keep smoking 😂😂 keeps other riders from getting too close 🤣
@@ExtremeSportsWannaBes 😂😂i would let it but its effecting my performance
Haha ya it’s probably time!
Yea of you see my last video i fell because it came out of the pipe on to the swing arm then on to the rear brakes just like you said
😬😬😬 ya once it starts effecting you’re stopping ability that’s pretty bad. Plus it makes a mess.
Sucks when its an RM or KX
Bro forgot to reinstall his clutch push rod😅😢
nice
Thanks 👍😊