Note,of all the channels concerning vintage bikes yours has shown me more detail better explanations better depth so its earned the only one I subscribe to and sir you've earned my total respect 🙏 kick it 👍
Hello there, it’s been good to see all the old parts re-used. It’s so easy to take the replica route with cheap copies. Myself, I have spent hours at the kitchen table resurrecting original parts, one because of lack of availability, cost and a desire to maintain originality. I personally find they are usually of a far super quality too. Good luck with the rest of the build. Cheers Kevin.
Nice video . 1972 Purchased new CB 750 $1,650 cash I was 18 Year later worked at same Honda dealer as a mechanic. First bike I bought was a used Allstate moped used $40 Overhauled it myself a couple times. N
Wow, great job! Thankfully I'm not the only one who prefers original equipment, simply cleaned/serviced and reinstalled! I worked on a little Honda 70 trike several years ago that had been sitting for 20 years simply because it had no spark! Turns out that the points had nothing wrong with them at all, just a quick clean with some brake cleaner and wipe down the contacts and then it ran as good as new! We couldn't even get new OEM points and possibly only cheap aftermarket stuff that wasn't correct, so we are really happy that the OEM stuff was still good quality. Subbed, keep doing what you are doing.🙂🙂👍👍
To me there’s no stock dash looking better than these old honda’s with the idiot lights on the bar clamp. Love what you did to this CB750 and the decisions made!
Nice bar. One of the first things I did when I got my 73 cb750 home was to install a drag bar. Ever since riding on my brothers' bikes in the 70s I had it in my head that cool bikes had a drag bar, a header and possibly a quarter fairing. Difficult job. Hopefully I never do that again, haha. I really wish I'd bought a superbike bar instead because of how tricky it was to route the brake line and cables. Cheers!
Back again, I also like to use a bit of die electric grease on the contacts and plugins. It really helps to give you consistent contact and water proofs those tiny little contact points in the electrical system. Been doing it for over 30 years, I believe it has saved me a lot of time and grief with working on older units. Cheers.
Ha great work, I live in australia and am an electrican by trade, what your doing is great however we are tought that crimps are ok, solder is ok but never ever both. The heat cycles and vibration can cause it to crack and cause a high risistance joint. Keep up the great work.
I've gone back and fourth on that and still prefer the added piece of mind personally. I've never had an electrical joint/terminal fail on me but im always trying new techniques and improving my methods
I’m really inspired by things you rebuild. If you ever come across a naked Goldwing from the 70s there’s a lot of them being restored. Thx for your great videos.
Super video! I am really enjoying the re - commissioning of this bike. Usually when I try to fit or remove tiny little e clips or springs they fly off to NeverNeverLand and are never found 😀
I went through a few sets of bars on my 75 CB750. I was tempted to try those Daytona bars. They look good. I currently have the Emgo Manga Extra wide, which have a nice amount of rise and pull back. They're 32 inches wide. The stock bars were a little too high. I went with Biltwell Tracker medium bars and those were just a tad too low. If I was going to switch them again, I'd try the BaaK N1 bars. It's a pain in the butt drilling the holes and swapping the bars with the wires running through them. : )
yes I recently learned the parking feature is not a good one!! haha when someone is unfamiliar with the bike it can definitely lead to dead battery's! happened to a couple of my bikes now!
@@BrickHouseBuilds for sure. Great video's by the way and nice work on the wiring! recently came across your channel. Starting to get into the CB 4 cylinders myself (got a cb350f to start smaller).
It looks like you use the good shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. Does it bond to that loom pretty well? I "rebuilt" an engine wiring harness for a 97 Thunderbird many moons ago when I swapped in a 4.6l DOHC from a Lincoln Mark 8 and I didn't know about adhesive shrink tubing then, or it didn't exist yet, so I coated all of my connections in silicone before sliding the tubing over it and shrinking it. It work well for a water tight seal but it was a pain in the you know what when I tried to tuck similar loom into it like you are doing here. I got the loom from some recycled industrial equipment. I looked great but I wonder if some oil or solvent had gotten into it.
Looking good & coming along great! I used to use a superbike bend set of bars on past 2-wheel hot rods I built/rode way back when, could get away with it because I have long arms. Those bars look very cool! The hot setup waaaaaay back in mid-late '70's for the SOHC 750 Honda was an original Kerker 4:1 header, it made great power and had that distinctively unique tone so prevalent in that time period. Carb jetting was easy on those bikes as well with the Keihin floats held on by a big spring clip. Thank you for another straight-up & informative video, ride safe!
I very much like a Superbike bend and have used many. I feel this bike needed something sliiiightly taller and more comfortable. I appreciate you watching!
I’m an electrician by trade and that took me back to refreshing my own switches. When I started watching I assumed you’d be installing the X21 package…but was pleasantly surprised. Did you post the winner of the X21 contest somewhere besides FB or RUclips? Excellent craftsmanship as always!👍🏻
Hey Alan, I made a winner announcement on my Facebook and Instagram. I was thinking of doing a short news update video Wednesday on here with everything going on. For this bike I actually do want to install an X21 but I want to wire it with these same switches for an extra sneaky look 😎
@@BrickHouseBuilds I like extra sneaky!👍🏻 I’ll check out the FB page...think I looked Saturday but didn’t see anything and thought maybe somebody hadn’t replied to you or something. Don’t really have any interest in the Instagram.
Hi great series of vids for us old honda fans .ive just got a 750/ k5 the wirings a bit of a mess . Tomorrow ill find out if battery is charging . What can be done to increass headlight power highbeam isnt that good . Is the 12v system ok for stronger lights or spotlights . Cheers. jamie down here in Newzealand .
@@jamiestanley8774 If you have an original K5 headlight it is a sealed beam which means you need to change the entire bulb/glass. You could also retrofit an H4 style bulb housing and do an LED bulb conversion that still looks nearly factory
Hi again . A set of controls have arrived and smaller gauge wire 12 maby . I either have to change connectors. Which because of one's in headlight bucket I have to anyway .have purchased from cycle terminal. Is it best to upside wiring. I pretty sure I can manage that. I might get new bars with pre cut holes . What do the think on changing wire size. And fit connectors when treaded through.
Your vid has ghiven me the confidence to try and rewire my hand controls and hide them down the bars ,i to have no need for parklights . Are all the wires 16gague ? K5 750. Cheers jamie Newzealand
Have an original grip that started sliding on the twist throttle housing. Grip is in great shape, any suggestions on getting it to stick/hold onto the twist throttle? I got a hairspray suggestion from a buddy?
I've used both hairspray and spraypaint with decent results. I always just continue to use brake clean as it helps melt stuff and make it stick. Just try anything you can and if it doesn't work try something else.
The excitement and then the dramatic sigh at the sight of packing peanuts had my wife and I chuckling. What is the heat and paint method? I haven’t seen that trick before. You make this rewiring look easy. (Amazon storefront is the only unclickable link, probably needs the boring Http:\\ stuff added. I realized I can’t long press/ copy from phone) don’t know if that’s a big or a feature.
It was 100% unscripted lol. I normally heat everything to get rid of moisture on the surface. I put zero effort into painting these gauge covers though. More sanding, more time, and some primer would be better. Thanks for the heads up on the amazon link
What's the tube of grease\stuff you are using for inside the terminals? I'm putting a Marty on my cx500, and I might try to put the wires inside the handlebars like that, seems like a great extra level of protection from the elements and looks super clean. But, I might restore the original controls for fun as mine are pretty crusty and I don't even have the physical turn signal switch, which again is what lead me to the NWT Marty system.
@@BrickHouseBuilds oh, yeah I won't use my original controls because like you said I can't. But I'd still like to restore them as a practice project or something lol. Just seems fun, who knows maybe I could sell them lol. Not likely.
What the main factor in your decision to rewire/renew wiring or controls BJ? That looked gubbed to me but you’ve done a great job bringing it back. Does it come down to cost?
No it wasn't a cost aspect as must as esthetics. The same reason I didn't put the new grips on the bike. This cb has survived all these years with much of its original equipment so I want to retain those parts but also their patina. If this was a restoration I would make different decisions
Mate . Can you tell me what that white plastic peice is with starter button assembly is . I havnt seen 1 of those in my controls . Maby thats what im missing !
Im still trying to get bike ridable . Had help from 2 people + a mobile Auto electrician . $500. To sparky he just stoped before xmass ,and gone . Dont ever move to NEWZEALAND. New throttle cables. Cant get all the slack out. Bulb holder in pilot Lights was 1/2 melted.
How did you get your headlight wiring so tidy. Its been 4+months now and headlights and tailight no guage and idiot lights ,and no running lights . I spent 100 at vintage usa for connectors. And im at the end that my brain will put up with . Ive looked at stackes of wiring plans . I must have a original 1 of a kind home made bike .
@jamiestanley8774 That can definitely be frustrating to say the least. Sometimes it's best to take a breath and walk away for a minute. Come back with a fresh view and start from the basics. Trace power in and out of every switch to see where you are lacking. Also test your ignition switch
For the ignition switch the red and black are 14g. The two browns are 16g. On the controls I used 18g for the signals and 16g for headlight power. I hope that helps
Curious, what was the rationale to going with the sealed light? I ask cause my modified CB750 I bought has this same design and was bummed when I tried to replace it with a H4 LED bulb and found out I couldn’t. If this one is a sealed LED could you drop a link as I’d be interested in picking one up. Keep up with the awesome videos!
@@BrickHouseBuilds Hey! Thanks for the quick response, yes it’s sealed and the connector placement and everything looks exactly the same as in your video so I wouldn’t be surprised if the previous owner used the same part. Does it being sealed allow it to be slimmer? Just trying to understand the pros/cons of sealed vs a standard H4 replaceable bulb that’s all. Sounds like it’s aesthetics which is fair enough, just wasn’t sure. Thanks again!
@@MagFlux There is no benefit to the sealed light. It is the older design before h4 sockets and replaceable bulbs were a thing. From probably 77 up they had the H4 style. You can convert to that headlight with ease and from there I actually have a direct fit LED H4 bulb you could use
Internal cable routing, drilling holes in the handlebar, yes, a cleaner look, but doesn't that also limit the positions of bar and grips you can use for various riders? (Here's the cyclist in me talking!) And as far as I could see, no rubber grommets ...
What various riders? In case you didn't know these are internally wired and pinned just like this from the factory. Also, rubber grommets for where/what?
@@BrickHouseBuilds grommets to keep water from coming into the steel handlebar. Various positions for riders of different height, and different preferences about where the handlebar and grips should be related to how they want to sit, the angle of the levers .... After all you switched the handlebar for something similar but a bit different ... Thinking like a cyclist. On the other hand, I bought the XJR1200, and never changed a single thing on it.
Note,of all the channels concerning vintage bikes yours has shown me more detail better explanations better depth so its earned the only one I subscribe to and sir you've earned my total respect 🙏 kick it 👍
Well I very much appreciate that Gary!
awesonme love to see you salvaging the parts
Thank ya!
love the fact that you are trying to keep as much of the original as possible
Yea I'm having fun trying to retain its patina and survivor-ness. It is well aged!
Hello there, it’s been good to see all the old parts re-used. It’s so easy to take the replica route with cheap copies. Myself, I have spent hours at the kitchen table resurrecting original parts, one because of lack of availability, cost and a desire to maintain originality. I personally find they are usually of a far super quality too.
Good luck with the rest of the build. Cheers Kevin.
Thanks Kevin and agreed 100%
Proper job, well done!
A lot of people just go for cheap aftermarket switch blocks and call them restored.
Couldn't agree more.
Nice video . 1972 Purchased new CB 750 $1,650 cash I was 18
Year later worked at same Honda dealer as a mechanic.
First bike I bought was a used Allstate moped used $40 Overhauled it myself a couple times.
N
I appreciate it 🙏 Even today that moped sounds fun
Wow, great job! Thankfully I'm not the only one who prefers original equipment, simply cleaned/serviced and reinstalled! I worked on a little Honda 70 trike several years ago that had been sitting for 20 years simply because it had no spark! Turns out that the points had nothing wrong with them at all, just a quick clean with some brake cleaner and wipe down the contacts and then it ran as good as new! We couldn't even get new OEM points and possibly only cheap aftermarket stuff that wasn't correct, so we are really happy that the OEM stuff was still good quality. Subbed, keep doing what you are doing.🙂🙂👍👍
Well thank you much! The bikes were well built so most of the time a good cleaning and adjustment is all they need.
One word...Sweet. Totally enjoying this build.
Thanks Gary and glad you are enjoying it!
Worked in a Honda shop back then so, never disassembled them!
You did a very neat job on rewiring the ignition switch. Looked great. 🏆👍
Thanks John!
Attention to detail is amazing
Thank ya Richie!
To me there’s no stock dash looking better than these old honda’s with the idiot lights on the bar clamp. Love what you did to this CB750 and the decisions made!
Thanks Vince!
I do love that bar clamp as well. Just very tasteful
Sure is a lot of work but we’ll worth it to keep the original look and patina of the bike 👍🏼 I also agree 100% with the grips
Yea a lot of work but just feels like the right way to go about it for what I want
Nice bar. One of the first things I did when I got my 73 cb750 home was to install a drag bar. Ever since riding on my brothers' bikes in the 70s I had it in my head that cool bikes had a drag bar, a header and possibly a quarter fairing. Difficult job. Hopefully I never do that again, haha. I really wish I'd bought a superbike bar instead because of how tricky it was to route the brake line and cables. Cheers!
Yeah drag bars are tough to route things on with being so narrow
Excellent job with the switches and handlebars. Love the sealed beam. Waiting for the next part where you put that on.
Thank ya! I'd prefer less wattage but I like the round look. After the tank is clean ill make much more progress
Back again, I also like to use a bit of die electric grease on the contacts and plugins. It really helps to give you consistent contact and water proofs those tiny little contact points in the electrical system. Been doing it for over 30 years, I believe it has saved me a lot of time and grief with working on older units. Cheers.
Ha great work, I live in australia and am an electrican by trade, what your doing is great however we are tought that crimps are ok, solder is ok but never ever both. The heat cycles and vibration can cause it to crack and cause a high risistance joint. Keep up the great work.
I've gone back and fourth on that and still prefer the added piece of mind personally. I've never had an electrical joint/terminal fail on me but im always trying new techniques and improving my methods
As far as that vibration I take great care to have the most strain relief possible at all points of the harness
Love what your doing with this one, good call on the grips. The whole front end looks neat and clean.
I really couldn't bring myself to put shiny grips on lol. The old ones are much better!
Really nice job BJ. You're the best!
Lol let's not get carried away here Mike! Let's use "best" very loosely 😉
@@BrickHouseBuilds You must be joking, that sweeping at the end was LEDENDARY!!!!
@@ACECafeBikes well arguably the BEST sweeping! I'll admit I excel at that!
Nice job on the wiring
@@jd6549 thank ya
Starting to look loved again! Great work, bud…
Thanks John! The old girl should be feeling all warm and fuzzy before too long
Nice clean work! good attention to detail 👁 💖✨👍🏻
Thank you!
I’m really inspired by things you rebuild. If you ever come across a naked Goldwing from the 70s there’s a lot of them being restored. Thx for your great videos.
Early wings are cool and they are becoming very popular indeed. If you are after some I have abuddy here in Missouri with some cheap ones
Super video! I am really enjoying the re - commissioning of this bike. Usually when I try to fit or remove tiny little e clips or springs they fly off to NeverNeverLand and are never found 😀
The fact that no springs or detent balls found their way to narnia this time was completely unexpected let me tell ya!
Amazing work as always, Bj! 🤘🤘💯💯
Thank you much!
I went through a few sets of bars on my 75 CB750. I was tempted to try those Daytona bars. They look good. I currently have the Emgo Manga Extra wide, which have a nice amount of rise and pull back. They're 32 inches wide. The stock bars were a little too high. I went with Biltwell Tracker medium bars and those were just a tad too low. If I was going to switch them again, I'd try the BaaK N1 bars. It's a pain in the butt drilling the holes and swapping the bars with the wires running through them. : )
These being 29 is ok but a 30-31 may be perfect. For the cost those these are worth a shot! Ill look into the ones mentioned
Those bars by Baak are near perfect...except for the price. 😵
Nice work on the bike and the video production.
Thank ya sir!
yes I recently learned the parking feature is not a good one!! haha when someone is unfamiliar with the bike it can definitely lead to dead battery's! happened to a couple of my bikes now!
Its a super easy mistake to make! It can happen to anyone for sure!
@@BrickHouseBuilds for sure. Great video's by the way and nice work on the wiring! recently came across your channel. Starting to get into the CB 4 cylinders myself (got a cb350f to start smaller).
@@fish8196 350fs' are rad! I have had one in the past but would love to build a period race bike from one! All the revs!
It looks like you use the good shrink tubing with the adhesive inside. Does it bond to that loom pretty well? I "rebuilt" an engine wiring harness for a 97 Thunderbird many moons ago when I swapped in a 4.6l DOHC from a Lincoln Mark 8 and I didn't know about adhesive shrink tubing then, or it didn't exist yet, so I coated all of my connections in silicone before sliding the tubing over it and shrinking it. It work well for a water tight seal but it was a pain in the you know what when I tried to tuck similar loom into it like you are doing here. I got the loom from some recycled industrial equipment. I looked great but I wonder if some oil or solvent had gotten into it.
Looking good & coming along great! I used to use a superbike bend set of bars on past 2-wheel hot rods I built/rode way back when, could get away with it because I have long arms. Those bars look very cool!
The hot setup waaaaaay back in mid-late '70's for the SOHC 750 Honda was an original Kerker 4:1 header, it made great power and had that distinctively unique tone so prevalent in that time period. Carb jetting was easy on those bikes as well with the Keihin floats held on by a big spring clip.
Thank you for another straight-up & informative video, ride safe!
I very much like a Superbike bend and have used many. I feel this bike needed something sliiiightly taller and more comfortable. I appreciate you watching!
I’m an electrician by trade and that took me back to refreshing my own switches. When I started watching I assumed you’d be installing the X21 package…but was pleasantly surprised. Did you post the winner of the X21 contest somewhere besides FB or RUclips? Excellent craftsmanship as always!👍🏻
Hey Alan, I made a winner announcement on my Facebook and Instagram. I was thinking of doing a short news update video Wednesday on here with everything going on. For this bike I actually do want to install an X21 but I want to wire it with these same switches for an extra sneaky look 😎
@@BrickHouseBuilds I like extra sneaky!👍🏻 I’ll check out the FB page...think I looked Saturday but didn’t see anything and thought maybe somebody hadn’t replied to you or something. Don’t really have any interest in the Instagram.
@@alanfrancis6946 My Facebook page almost mirrors my Instagram so it stays current to the day/hour
ruclips.net/video/MyHSkPV6KnQ/видео.html
@@BrickHouseBuilds I do t have FB (anymore) and never had Instagram. :-(
Switches that is!
They aren't that bad but can definitely be tricky to get everything in place on assembly
Hi great series of vids for us old honda fans .ive just got a 750/ k5 the wirings a bit of a mess . Tomorrow ill find out if battery is charging . What can be done to increass headlight power highbeam isnt that good . Is the 12v system ok for stronger lights or spotlights .
Cheers. jamie down here in Newzealand .
Hey Jamie. For headlight power an upgraded reg/rec would do a lot but also converting to LED bulbs to save wattage
@@BrickHouseBuilds
Is there much to do led upgrade .
And thanks for your reply so quick
@@jamiestanley8774 If you have an original K5 headlight it is a sealed beam which means you need to change the entire bulb/glass. You could also retrofit an H4 style bulb housing and do an LED bulb conversion that still looks nearly factory
@@BrickHouseBuilds ok great ideas .ill start doing some homework as to what i can do .
Cheers .
Hi again . A set of controls have arrived and smaller gauge wire 12 maby . I either have to change connectors. Which because of one's in headlight bucket I have to anyway .have purchased from cycle terminal. Is it best to upside wiring. I pretty sure I can manage that. I might get new bars with pre cut holes . What do the think on changing wire size. And fit connectors when treaded through.
Yes did like and keep up the great work.
Thank you!
I’m looking for a 1975 CB750 four “barn find” and no luck so far.
They are out there. I just shared one a couple days ago. Just have to watch
Your vid has ghiven me the confidence to try and rewire my hand controls and hide them down the bars ,i to have no need for parklights . Are all the wires 16gague ? K5 750. Cheers jamie
Newzealand
Glad it was insightful! I did use 16g on these but I use a higher quality txl wire which has a thinner coating.
@@BrickHouseBuilds sounds like a plan .
I just have to find somewhere that will sell multiple cut lenghts of assorted colours .🤔
4rcustomswire.com
Have an original grip that started sliding on the twist throttle housing. Grip is in great shape, any suggestions on getting it to stick/hold onto the twist throttle? I got a hairspray suggestion from a buddy?
I've used both hairspray and spraypaint with decent results. I always just continue to use brake clean as it helps melt stuff and make it stick. Just try anything you can and if it doesn't work try something else.
The excitement and then the dramatic sigh at the sight of packing peanuts had my wife and I chuckling.
What is the heat and paint method? I haven’t seen that trick before.
You make this rewiring look easy.
(Amazon storefront is the only unclickable link, probably needs the boring Http:\\ stuff added. I realized I can’t long press/ copy from phone) don’t know if that’s a big or a feature.
It was 100% unscripted lol. I normally heat everything to get rid of moisture on the surface. I put zero effort into painting these gauge covers though. More sanding, more time, and some primer would be better.
Thanks for the heads up on the amazon link
I thought I was the only maniac going to all the trouble to rebuild my switches and controls!
LMFAO
We have issues lol 😆
What's the tube of grease\stuff you are using for inside the terminals? I'm putting a Marty on my cx500, and I might try to put the wires inside the handlebars like that, seems like a great extra level of protection from the elements and looks super clean. But, I might restore the original controls for fun as mine are pretty crusty and I don't even have the physical turn signal switch, which again is what lead me to the NWT Marty system.
Well you can't use your original controls with a Marty. That system is designed for 6 momentary buttons. The tube is dielectric grease
@@BrickHouseBuilds oh, yeah I won't use my original controls because like you said I can't. But I'd still like to restore them as a practice project or something lol. Just seems fun, who knows maybe I could sell them lol. Not likely.
@@Badenhawk Actually thats hard to think of a better thing to practice on!
What the main factor in your decision to rewire/renew wiring or controls BJ? That looked gubbed to me but you’ve done a great job bringing it back. Does it come down to cost?
No it wasn't a cost aspect as must as esthetics. The same reason I didn't put the new grips on the bike. This cb has survived all these years with much of its original equipment so I want to retain those parts but also their patina. If this was a restoration I would make different decisions
Mate . Can you tell me what that white plastic peice is with starter button assembly is . I havnt seen 1 of those in my controls . Maby thats what im missing !
@@jamiestanley8774 Could you maybe give me a time stamp in the video so I can better understand the exact part you are looking at?
Im still trying to get bike ridable .
Had help from 2 people + a mobile
Auto electrician .
$500. To sparky he just stoped before xmass ,and gone .
Dont ever move to
NEWZEALAND.
New throttle cables. Cant get all the slack out.
Bulb holder in pilot
Lights was 1/2 melted.
How did you get your headlight wiring so tidy. Its been 4+months now and headlights and tailight no guage and idiot lights ,and no running lights . I spent 100 at vintage usa for connectors. And im at the end that my brain will put up with . Ive looked at stackes of wiring plans . I must have a original 1 of a kind home made bike .
@jamiestanley8774 That can definitely be frustrating to say the least. Sometimes it's best to take a breath and walk away for a minute. Come back with a fresh view and start from the basics. Trace power in and out of every switch to see where you are lacking. Also test your ignition switch
Hi bro, I want to ask what motorbike alternative for the CBX 750 dynamo starter is better to use?
@@belleropone I'm sorry I don't understand your question
@@BrickHouseBuilds i got cbx 750 .. i got issue at engine stater is there any chance use other type bike alternator / dinamo stater ?
What's the great fuzz guitar music?
Well its all royalty free music you find on epidemic sound so you can use it on RUclips. A common band is Tigerblood Jewel
Its a finnicky, but oh so rewarding proces of rebuilding them. Good job!
Agreed! Thank you!
Hi, Nice job !! sorry to disturb you. Is it all 1mm2 cable that you used ?? thanks , Gus
For the ignition switch the red and black are 14g. The two browns are 16g. On the controls I used 18g for the signals and 16g for headlight power. I hope that helps
@@BrickHouseBuilds Great !! thanks a lot. I'm working on a CX500.
In case you haven't seen it i have some handy wiring videos to watch. ruclips.net/video/R1O4dJKJZgo/видео.html
Curious, what was the rationale to going with the sealed light? I ask cause my modified CB750 I bought has this same design and was bummed when I tried to replace it with a H4 LED bulb and found out I couldn’t. If this one is a sealed LED could you drop a link as I’d be interested in picking one up. Keep up with the awesome videos!
Just purely esthetics as mentioned with the round front. It is halogen like original so not led. Is yours sealed or not?
@@BrickHouseBuilds Hey! Thanks for the quick response, yes it’s sealed and the connector placement and everything looks exactly the same as in your video so I wouldn’t be surprised if the previous owner used the same part. Does it being sealed allow it to be slimmer? Just trying to understand the pros/cons of sealed vs a standard H4 replaceable bulb that’s all. Sounds like it’s aesthetics which is fair enough, just wasn’t sure. Thanks again!
@@MagFlux There is no benefit to the sealed light. It is the older design before h4 sockets and replaceable bulbs were a thing. From probably 77 up they had the H4 style. You can convert to that headlight with ease and from there I actually have a direct fit LED H4 bulb you could use
Ahh ok was just curious. Thanks for the info and the detailed reply!
Why did you heat up the backing of the gauge before you painted it?
To burn off any moisture in the metal and help it adhere/cure better/quicker.
👍👍👍
Thank you!
Brick House Builds, ...... SATISFACTION !!!
🙏🙏
I must have missed it. Are you restoring it for yourself or for a customer?
This one is my bike actually. I plan to just keep it forever or until they become so valuable I have to properly restore it
@@BrickHouseBuilds Right on! 💪💪
All I know about electricity is that it calms me...
Its very methodical
Great vid, but i need to know where you got the shirt
Hahah I wish I could tell you! I had seen a pic online and then dug until I found it. No idea what website it was at this point!
Internal cable routing, drilling holes in the handlebar, yes, a cleaner look, but doesn't that also limit the positions of bar and grips you can use for various riders? (Here's the cyclist in me talking!) And as far as I could see, no rubber grommets ...
What various riders? In case you didn't know these are internally wired and pinned just like this from the factory. Also, rubber grommets for where/what?
@@BrickHouseBuilds grommets to keep water from coming into the steel handlebar. Various positions for riders of different height, and different preferences about where the handlebar and grips should be related to how they want to sit, the angle of the levers .... After all you switched the handlebar for something similar but a bit different ... Thinking like a cyclist. On the other hand, I bought the XJR1200, and never changed a single thing on it.
Well I will be the only rider though. There are no grommets that go on the bars. This is how they are designed.
Mate i can help you with the electrical, red +, black -
This answers all my questions!!! ❤❤❤
That park switch that you deleted could be wired into a homebrew alarm.
I guess so