I surfed it similar to this in the Winter of 2004/2005. It looked perfect and inviting but in actuality it was angry, heavy, and scary beyond belief. The cold, dark water was a stark and unwelcome departure from my home state of Hawaii. Most humbling break ever.
The place looks difficult , not only getting out when its pumping like that , with all that rubber on, but taking off on the right section of the wave must require great knowledge of the spot.
@@NorCalSurfer of course...you don't surf double over head in cold water unless you know what you're doing.In fact, if someone attempts too, they wont make it out or worse.Keep up the good work!
These are great videos. Any chance you can film or interview some of the guys paddling out? I'm genuinely fascinated by how these guys are physically capable of making it out in those conditions
A lot of it just comes down to persistence and luck. Sometimes you get lucky, other times you get denied. I've been surfing Ocean Beach since about 2007. I'm not an expert, but I do surf it at DOH++ at least a few times a year. I used to be a lot more strategic when I first started out: planning my paddle-out and waiting for the lulls and picking the best place to paddle. That's before I figured out that persistence and luck was the deciding factor in whether you make it out or not. These days, I basically just watch from the dunes for a minute or two, look for a good rip, and start paddling.
My bro is 48, surfs all the 3x+ days, I have been out in 2x+...he is in really good shape, I am in ok shape...being in good shape is part of it, being calm in big water is another, knowing what to do and how the beach works is another, and being able to find the rips/channels out or paddle straight out for 20-30 mins with duck diving through 4-8 lines is another thing. The long shore current constantly moves you, it’s best to work up to it. Get some 1x and learn the beach first.
Everyone always films sloat and Noriega the middle and south end of the beach, but the best waves and surfers are at Kelly's and VFW North end of the beach. Please film Kelly's and VFW!! The waves break closer to the beach and are more hollow.
So where are all of the young rippers with their neon wetsuits and perfectly bleached hair ? Probably sitting at home waiting for ankle biters.. It's funny how adding 5-7 feet to a swell separates the men form the boys.
Once saw a guy out there pull into a huge tunnel on a big white board wearing a black wetsuit, and 3 seconds later the wave blowholed and a chick came out in a white wetsuit on a black board and then threw a big cutty shark with her dorsal fin showing if you know what I mean..
Just the sack it takes to drop in on one of those bombs...👊 then guys set their line only the get their ass kicked...and then they do it again!!! You know how it feels when you’re driving away after a good session...mental high, radio blasting, starving hungry, nothing else in life exists...it must be that multiplied times 10 after a good session out there on a day like this!!!
It’s simple, Just take the swell height divide it by two, then use that number to calculate the inverse of the interval ratio to contour depth. The bottom of the integer is then multiplied by pie to get the reciprocal. Wave height is one third of reciprocal. Then wax up and paddle out!
Haha I agree. It doesn’t matter though, I could say these waves are 1’ in giant scale and that’s what I’m measuring. The wave is the wave, call it whatever you like. These are monsters.
![XL SWELL at Ocean Beach San Francisco | Dec 3, 2020! [EPIC & RAW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/INlTvAj6Pt0/mqdefault.jpg)
![XL SWELL at Ocean Beach San Francisco | Dec 3, 2020! [EPIC & RAW]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you for watching! 🤙 Consider subscribing to watch more NorCal surfing!
I surfed it similar to this in the Winter of 2004/2005. It looked perfect and inviting but in actuality it was angry, heavy, and scary beyond belief. The cold, dark water was a stark and unwelcome departure from my home state of Hawaii. Most humbling break ever.
I remember that time ✌
Ocean beach is crazy! Props to the guys tackling this break!
I actually wake up sometime at 1-2am when it’s extra quiet when I can hear it from the skylight..☺️ thanks for the closeup!!🙏🏾
Wonderful!
Love the footage. Anyone else yell at the guy at :46 for jumping off their board and not pulling in????
Ya all he had to do was commit. Could have been a great one
Pull in.
@@nicktoonsman09 i kind of agree. There's other spots. Anyways. He was trying at least. Doing best he can.
Great Raw Video! I love the raw sound. The relentless wave "sets" They just never end. Good Stuff!!
🙏 thank you for the feedback
@@NorCalSurfer You spend hours out there filming. Icy fingers! Holding on to your camera. Thanks for the views you give us. It ain't easy!
Rad footage. Congrats. I read about that break in the book but 1st time seeing it for real. Many memories.
Great surf video! Thanks for sharing! I have a lot of respect and admiration for anyone who paddled out in those conditions.
😎🤙
Some really great talent out there!! Helluva job just paddling out!
You got that right!
0:48 i know it's not easy out there but that was a makeable pit!
3:49 notice something in the back of the ocean???
Mad props to the guys who make it out. Heavy. Love the vid's!
🤙😎
everything about that reminds of Puerto ,,,, all those guys pulling in ,,,,, LEGEND
except that one guy ,, u no who u are ,,
3:52 ........ Oh YEAH ..... he ROCKED IT !!!
The place looks difficult , not only getting out when its pumping like that , with all that rubber on, but taking off on the right section of the wave must require great knowledge of the spot.
And practice and dedication
@@NorCalSurfer of course...you don't surf double over head in cold water unless you know what you're doing.In fact, if someone attempts too, they wont make it out or worse.Keep up the good work!
So glad you do this. Inspired. Thank you.
👌😎 sure thing 🤙
where do guys surf when its this big but they want to surf something smaller? is there a spot that tones it down a notch or two?
For as big as this is it looks so clean
Good vid. Thx for not adding cheesy music. Drone soon?
Fuck that, don't need the constant buzzing overhead.
Working on it! 🙏
These are great videos. Any chance you can film or interview some of the guys paddling out? I'm genuinely fascinated by how these guys are physically capable of making it out in those conditions
Just time the sets and hope you get to the line up in time. It looks like you'd get worked big time if you got caught inside.
@@roadracer1584 literally. u get a window, if u dont make it ur fucked
I support this idea, I would love to hear some interviews!
A lot of it just comes down to persistence and luck. Sometimes you get lucky, other times you get denied. I've been surfing Ocean Beach since about 2007. I'm not an expert, but I do surf it at DOH++ at least a few times a year. I used to be a lot more strategic when I first started out: planning my paddle-out and waiting for the lulls and picking the best place to paddle. That's before I figured out that persistence and luck was the deciding factor in whether you make it out or not. These days, I basically just watch from the dunes for a minute or two, look for a good rip, and start paddling.
My bro is 48, surfs all the 3x+ days, I have been out in 2x+...he is in really good shape, I am in ok shape...being in good shape is part of it, being calm in big water is another, knowing what to do and how the beach works is another, and being able to find the rips/channels out or paddle straight out for 20-30 mins with duck diving through 4-8 lines is another thing. The long shore current constantly moves you, it’s best to work up to it. Get some 1x and learn the beach first.
wow theyre actually all taking off deep
Awesome day, but why did that one dude just jump off right when he could've got barreled and make the wave easily?
Not to crowded! Excellent video.
🤙
need to get von froth out there, some of those barrels rival coxos!
Everyone always films sloat and Noriega the middle and south end of the beach, but the best waves and surfers are at Kelly's and VFW North end of the beach. Please film Kelly's and VFW!! The waves break closer to the beach and are more hollow.
Totally agree, this is great feedback 👌
Thanks for these great videos!! Please keep them coming!!
why is the water that color?
Cold water + darkish sand I reckon
Lot's of run off from massive drainage.
My teeth were chattering the entire video. Hats off to taking off late on those biggies
8-10ft
Should they do a comp here?
They actually did in 2011: www.worldsurfleague.com/events/2011/mct/361/rip-curl-search/videos
2011 comp was one of the earlier nails in the coffin for OB becoming over exposed, hence ridiculous crowds year after year
Oh wow thanks. It's never a good thing for the break.
So where are all of the young rippers with their neon wetsuits and perfectly bleached hair ? Probably sitting at home waiting for ankle biters.. It's funny how adding 5-7 feet to a swell separates the men form the boys.
love ocean beach
Same here!
Has anybody ever made it out of one of those tubulars?
noone ever has. they are called wave tunnels fyi..and are reported to be the gateway to another dimension
Once saw a guy out there pull into a huge tunnel on a big white board wearing a black wetsuit, and 3 seconds later the wave blowholed and a chick came out in a white wetsuit on a black board and then threw a big cutty shark with her dorsal fin showing if you know what I mean..
Andy !!!!
🤙💪
Surfed Santa Cruz summer never winter this souther hb knows his limitations o b winter o mg
Just the sack it takes to drop in on one of those bombs...👊 then guys set their line only the get their ass kicked...and then they do it again!!! You know how it feels when you’re driving away after a good session...mental high, radio blasting, starving hungry, nothing else in life exists...it must be that multiplied times 10 after a good session out there on a day like this!!!
💯
Hawaiian size would be like 3-5 foot lol. Those people are crazy the way the measure their waves.
It’s simple, Just take the swell height divide it by two, then use that number to calculate the inverse of the interval ratio to contour depth. The bottom of the integer is then multiplied by pie to get the reciprocal. Wave height is one third of reciprocal. Then wax up and paddle out!
Haha I agree. It doesn’t matter though, I could say these waves are 1’ in giant scale and that’s what I’m measuring. The wave is the wave, call it whatever you like. These are monsters.
@@kmcveigh100 yeah for real. It’s crazy to me how many professional water men live on the north shore.