Kryo Genik 11:50 that does not look like the touch mark that Alec uses.... and Alec also said he borrowed a design from an American tool maker that he looked up to.
This is why I love your videos. You're not afraid to try new things and admit this is your first time. Sometimes it works sometimes it don't but at least you tried. Thank you for making videos like this to help inspire people like me.
Absolutely adore your channel, Chandler. Haven't watched a video of yours in a while but I'm glad to see you seem to be in better spirits. Keep up the good work sweet man.
Love your willingness to attempt this. I'm not quite there yet albeit close. I use coil springs for my punches and chisels. I have always oil (canola/vegetable) quenched them and had reasonable success. I made a double sided chisel, similar to what you'd get at the local hardware store for rough work, and while the edge passed the file test, it failed the "work" test. I was using it to take some inside corners out of some square holes on a bit of angle and the edge just collapsed. I ground the offending bits out and then ht'd again but this time quenched in water and then oil. Tempered to light straw. I thought that this thing would shatter on first contact but it's been six months of abuse and I've not had to resharpen once. Chandler, if it would withstand a water quench and then a light temper, you should be able to get a better (lower, more acute angle) edge on it. Just thinking out loud...
not going to lie i stopped watching your vids for a bit and you have got a lot better just in the short time span i tuned out. good work ma man keep it coming!!
That single bevel you did is a japanese style straight razor grind. Most traditional ones are ground hollow on both sides, which is more difficult and not always better (it's easier to keep a single bevel grind sharp though you lose some ambidexterous utility) A straight razor is hollow ground for two reasons. Firstly, it lets you sharpen it easily since you lay the blade flat on the stone (including the bulge of the spine) and as you sharpen, it eats at both the spine and the edge which not only ensures a consistent angle, but that the angle does not change as the razor wears down. Super clever. It also makes final sharpening super easy. Your pin location on those scales is actually pretty tits. You don't want the blade in the scales down to the spine. You want it to pinch down at the end so that there's only enough space for about 2/3-3/4 of the blade to be buried in the scales, and the taper of the scales from the handle towards the nose is what pinches the blade and keeps it safe (and from moving). You don't put a stop in the scales, you just use a spacer in the front pin to permit just the right amount of blade in. Overall... I really like the job. scales need to be way thinner and you need to take the grind all the way to the back of the spine, but you did a great job for a first attempt!
I have a lovely,Solingen steel, high quality straight razor that was Grand Dad's. It is very hard steel and difficult to hone. I spent 2 hours with progressively fine stones and ended with a black Arkansas stone. When you strop it you load the stroud with buffing compound. Even under the best of conditions it is an appalling thing to shave with- and I used to use a double edged safety razor. I think they have two bevels, are more radically hollow ground and have very thin edges.
Chandler.. Easiest way to shape the handle is to preshape it with the blade like you did, so you know proportions are correct... Take blade out and set aside... Then temporarily pin the scales together with a spacer the same width as blade.. Then shape away til its comfortable in your hand and you like the aesthetics...take spacer piece out, put blade back in. Do final assembly...
Not to make light of your deal, but I'm glad to see your improvement in mood. It would have been scary to see you with a razor at your throat a couple months ago. Been there, done that. ;>) Keep on keepin' on...
go chan go, I tried to sharpen a straight razor once , the only way I could shave with it was by using a Arkansas stone on it and then to strop it on note book paper, hey it worked for me. keep going Chandler keep going.
Good job on your first razor Chandler. I have to admit that I have been avoiding this video not for the video itself, but for the comments. I have to say that I am a bit surprised as there has been some great advice regarding looking into how a razor is made. If you ever have any questions, please ask. Charlie Lewis does indeed grind a nice blade. As do many great razor makers. Also, yes, a razor should be hand honed to a very very high grit. Please avoid advice from knifemakers. Talk to a razor guy
Hey Chandler, excellent first effort. Making a good razor is bit trickier than a knife. A couple of suggestions. First is consider going with a rounded tip similar to what you'll see on a Dovo razor. It'll make for a bit more comfortable shave. Second is you can go with a double hollow grind but it isn't strictly necessary. Earlier versions were flat ground to a shallow angle. You might want to consider going that route until you get a better feel for the best edge angle. Once you understand how the edge angle works you'll find hollow grinding less of a challenge. - Long time straight razor user.
A little surprised to see you use a single-concave grind. I have several old razors, including one that belonged to my great-grandfather, a Sicilian barber. All of my razors are double-concave ground, in case you need to use a backhanded stroke. BTW, you probably won't want to strop your edge on your forge apron, as Christopher suggests. After you've honed it on a 1000-1200 grit wet whetstone, stropping it on an apron loaded w/dirt, scale and grit is kinda sub-optimal. Just be sure to turn the edge over, not under, at the end of each stroke of the strop.
Chandler...... I have got to say great job for the first try fo show. You got some balls trying to shave with a sharp for a knife blade but dull for a razor.. I have never yet tried to make one but as far as I can tell the sharpening needs to be finished on a very high grit whet stone to get a very hair popping keen edge. Literally when the edge is sharp enough to be able to shave your face you should be able to test it on your arm hair and just by touching the hair they should jump off with 0 effort.. I look very forward to you revisiting this at a latter time. o and can I suggest getting yourself a large contact wheel to get that edge correct. Any way I enjoy all your videos and have been watching since the very beginning . I look forward to every new release. Your ethics are amazing and you are a real deal person and that is very respectable for now aday types of people.. very rare.. Oh, Not trying to hijack your channel in anyway but I would be humbled and like to invite you to take a look at my channel and leave a comment. It would be nice to here your take on my work. Very Sincerely, Martin M&S Blades
Hey Chandler, I think you are doing a great job despite what it seems like you are going through. I wanted to let you know that you don't necessarily need to add scales to the razor as some are just a one piece razor that can either be put into a sheath or just left out. Otherwise you are doing great! Its all up to the style you want to go with!
"It pulls like a b&@ch!" Lol... not a bad one for your first try Chandler! I would definitely do a little more research before producing many more. A double hollow grind, in my opinion, is the best way to go. That keeps the edge thin and easily sharpened when needed. But once you have the edge you should be able to lay it across the strop and keep it sharp. I shave with a straight razor every morning, and alternate between one of my own that I made and an old German ES=EX no.1. I have faith that you can make some phenomenal razors seeing as you made that one from a bit of mystery steel just laying around! Keep up the great work!
Wow, something that's both useful and beautiful! You're good at that! (I just came back from a "spiritual retreat" up near Woodstock - the woods and hills are very peaceful and welcoming, and I thought of some of your philosophical videos.)
He wasn't on the actual show but he did a similar challenge by giving himself a time limit in his shop to forge a knife put it through a few tests. It's somewhere back in his videos, probably around a year ago or so.
To properly sharpen a straight razor, you need to sand up to at least 1200 grit (preferably much higher, like 2400+) then you set the final edge with a 7500-10,000 grit water stone and knock the burr off the blade with a strop.
good lord he is not going to split atoms.. that would be a nasty wicked sharp edge I only take it to 400 on the belt sander then hand finish up to 800 grit then use a buffing wheel with polishing compound then strop for good measure to finish off any "wires" my knives remove hair with little resistance. But I am going to try your method see if I can get it ridiculously sharp
I am restoring a vintage straight I got at an auction. I want to restore it for personal use, so buying stones is a bit much for one blade. Could I stick with water paper or varying grits? Ive got up to 1200 I think. Got a good edge on the blade but not sharp enough for my face just yet.
Charlie Lewis has a youtube channel on forging, grinding, and handling straight razors. Lewis Razors. I shave with a straight razor. Not hard to hone on a barber's razor hone. I made a strop board and dressed it with buffing compound. This a good system for keeping my razors in good condition and "razor sharp!" I never use a back hand stroke. I change hands when changing sides.
I'd say this is a tedder or rotary rake tine, either way, you can be shure this is good steel, these kind of parts are made to be very abrasion resistant. You might also want to look into harrow / chisel points, discs and plow parts. all of these are wear parts made to stand up to use un highly abrasive environment (the soil)
I think looks good I thought it was suppose to have a double concave grind but I have never made one myself so you might know more than me still came out pretty sweet
Cool chandler! Now, best comment I'll make is the R&D is just starting. Take it along to an actual Barber and talk it over with him... see what he's expecting from a good razor... while he gives you a shave. THAT would make a cracking good video! And might even get you some customers for the Old School Razor.
Apparently the wooden part of a straight razor isn't the handle, the handle is integral. The wooden part is a guard I think they call it, it's just there to guard the blade and such.
For a razor you have to obtuse of a angle, for a single hollow grind it should have come almost right to the spine with somewhere around a 10" wheel. Google a hollow grind calculator to calculate the contact wheel size.
Hope you read this Chandler. As a straight razor user for years, you have a good grind on that razor. a few tips, leave those corners rounded a bit. Much better than having that 90 degree point when trying to shape corners up and other precise trimming. also, check into the japanese style straight razor. it doesnt fold. and once i switched to one id never go back. you could pump these out much quicker without having to jack with handles. also, check into wet stones on amazon to get the final edge after ur grinding. bring her up to 600 and ur good to go. hand forged straight razors go for some decent bucks and old school shaving is really big right now. there is a big big community of wet shavers that love artisan crafted shaving soaps and the hand made razors. great job brother. hope you give this a few more shots. i think you'll find just a few sales will be quite worth the time put in to make one. Example here: ruclips.net/video/Jm70-HbMsX8/видео.html
So... I was watching forged in fire last night because I discovered Hulu has all of the episodes there for free... they were doing the car challenge again, and all of the contestants went for the leaf springs (even in the last one they all went for the coil-overs). I realized though, that none of them went for maybe one of the more obvious pieces... I'm not sure if this particular truck had one, but the lug-wrench should be some kind of tool steel already, I wonder how easy it would be to make a knife out of a car's lug wrench... >_>
You gotta go higher than 600 grit for a razor - and end it with a polishing compound and strop - at least that's how I've got them shaving - but what do I know :D You can get all the stuff from amazon for a cheap price, 8000 grit stone isn't expensive at all.
The hollow or concave grind was anywhere from 10"-14" on the contact wheel. At least, that's what they used to do from the 1890 style in San Fran Sisco
A couple of things (from someone who uses a straight razor on a regular basis): Overall nice job. There's no 'right' dimension for a razor, but that blade is REALLY long; shorter and wider would be easier to use (I prefer at least a 5/8" wide blade). Scales are really thick too...you should be able to handle the razor with a light grip. You'll NEVER get the razor sharp enough with a belt sander. NEVER; You need a good set of wet stones...I start at 4,000 go to 8,000 and finish with 10,000. The blade needs a hollow on both sides and should go from the edge to the spine so you can sharpen it with your wet stones. Stropping the blade just polishes it between uses...it doesn't sharpen it. And DON'T run your thumb down the edge of a razor blade! A properly sharpened razor will slice all your skin off!
In the beginning I was so shocked that you were using such a thin piece of metal. Trial and error right? The grinds are normally extra hollow, quarter hollow, Half follow, then you got the big cleavers like the near wedges, and true wedges
I love watching you at work! Do you think you could tweak your microphone setup though? You're nearly inaudible when you're hammering/grinding/etc and I want to hear what you're saying too! :)
Do they make "polishing" belts for the belt grinder? I wonder how well it would work to take a strip of leather, not unlike that leather belt, and run that on the belt grinder. You could run it on it's own, like leather strop, or even charge it with polishing compound.
Not nearly sharp enough? Um, yeah. That is not far off the mark. I can't help you with the smithing part, but a little info might help your next try: A straightedge is NOT done when you pass 600 grit. The stones needed might be quite an expensive post on any budget, so consider talking to someone in your area. I know my razor had the bevel set on a 1200 grit stone, was brought through a 4K stone, 6K, 8K and finished on a 10K glasstone. And it takes and absolute age, and requires tons and tons of patience (again, consider finding help). Finally, if there ever was an edge, you rolled it over, when you were stropping. When stropping, you need to make sure the angle between edge and strop is perfect and constant. Almost every single new straight edge shaver has tried rolling the edge while stropping, However, props to you for trying to shave with it. Ballsy. Stupid, but ballsy ;)
I find I need to bring my knives up to around 1000 grit and then a strop before I can shave my face effectively. I go to 7000 grit just to get the best performance I can though.
chandler do you make your soap lard or bacon fat and lie that is the way my grandma made it and it was cooked in an old cast iron skillet i to have made it that way it's fun and boy will it clean. good show keep up the good work.
I hone my own straight razors. I use the Naniwa Super Stones. My progression goes... 👇🏻 1k 3K 8k 12k Strop on Chromium oxide (abrasive ) Than strop on fabric side Then strop leather
It's crazy to think that this channel started off as a survival channel. It's always neat to see things evolve. Great build!!!
Love the fact Chandler is using an Alec Steele hammer. Hands down my favorite two blacksmiths to watch
Kryo Genik 11:50 that does not look like the touch mark that Alec uses.... and Alec also said he borrowed a design from an American tool maker that he looked up to.
Thinking about getting into smithing. Always wanted to but never had the funds. So glad I found this channel
This is why I love your videos. You're not afraid to try new things and admit this is your first time. Sometimes it works sometimes it don't but at least you tried. Thank you for making videos like this to help inspire people like me.
Yes yes yesssss. The ultimately most needed tool for a man , is The Razor . and its finally here.
I love the rustic look of the wooden handle
Absolutely adore your channel, Chandler. Haven't watched a video of yours in a while but I'm glad to see you seem to be in better spirits. Keep up the good work sweet man.
Yes! I've been waiting! Love your work, you're the reason I've gotten into blacksmithing!
I’m actually in the traditional WetShaving community so that’s how I found your video
💈😁🤙🏻💈
Great job dude! Badass!
Enjoyed this. One a lot. Good to hear you laughing,
Love your willingness to attempt this. I'm not quite there yet albeit close. I use coil springs for my punches and chisels. I have always oil (canola/vegetable) quenched them and had reasonable success. I made a double sided chisel, similar to what you'd get at the local hardware store for rough work, and while the edge passed the file test, it failed the "work" test. I was using it to take some inside corners out of some square holes on a bit of angle and the edge just collapsed. I ground the offending bits out and then ht'd again but this time quenched in water and then oil. Tempered to light straw. I thought that this thing would shatter on first contact but it's been six months of abuse and I've not had to resharpen once.
Chandler, if it would withstand a water quench and then a light temper, you should be able to get a better (lower, more acute angle) edge on it. Just thinking out loud...
I enjoyed your video from start to finish
The bottom of a ceramic coffee mug will put a shaving edge on that razor real quick no doubt. Very cool Chandler.
not going to lie i stopped watching your vids for a bit and you have got a lot better just in the short time span i tuned out. good work ma man keep it coming!!
great video would love to see you make enough after more research.
Looks good! I always learn something new when I watch you work!
That single bevel you did is a japanese style straight razor grind. Most traditional ones are ground hollow on both sides, which is more difficult and not always better (it's easier to keep a single bevel grind sharp though you lose some ambidexterous utility)
A straight razor is hollow ground for two reasons. Firstly, it lets you sharpen it easily since you lay the blade flat on the stone (including the bulge of the spine) and as you sharpen, it eats at both the spine and the edge which not only ensures a consistent angle, but that the angle does not change as the razor wears down. Super clever. It also makes final sharpening super easy.
Your pin location on those scales is actually pretty tits. You don't want the blade in the scales down to the spine. You want it to pinch down at the end so that there's only enough space for about 2/3-3/4 of the blade to be buried in the scales, and the taper of the scales from the handle towards the nose is what pinches the blade and keeps it safe (and from moving). You don't put a stop in the scales, you just use a spacer in the front pin to permit just the right amount of blade in.
Overall... I really like the job. scales need to be way thinner and you need to take the grind all the way to the back of the spine, but you did a great job for a first attempt!
I've always used the back of my leather belt as a strop. Works pretty good.
Yes! I'm getting ready to try to make a razor. I'm so glad you got to it first. I'm sure it will be educational for me!
I'd love to see more of these and the progress you make over time, very cool!
I have a lovely,Solingen steel, high quality straight razor that was Grand Dad's. It is very hard steel and difficult to hone. I spent 2 hours with progressively fine stones and ended with a black Arkansas stone. When you strop it you load the stroud with buffing compound. Even under the best of conditions it is an appalling thing to shave with- and I used to use a double edged safety razor.
I think they have two bevels, are more radically hollow ground and have very thin edges.
Nice job Chandler, and you're braver than I... never used a straight razor, ESPECIALLY not on my neck!
Chandler.. Easiest way to shape the handle is to preshape it with the blade like you did, so you know proportions are correct... Take blade out and set aside... Then temporarily pin the scales together with a spacer the same width as blade.. Then shape away til its comfortable in your hand and you like the aesthetics...take spacer piece out, put blade back in. Do final assembly...
Not to make light of your deal, but I'm glad to see your improvement in mood. It would have been scary to see you with a razor at your throat a couple months ago. Been there, done that. ;>) Keep on keepin' on...
go chan go, I tried to sharpen a straight razor once , the only way I could shave with it was by using a Arkansas stone on it and then to strop it on note book paper, hey it worked for me. keep going Chandler keep going.
Chandler it's good seeing you you the circle/square hammer. That's going to up your game big time once you master it!
You get an A++ for effort brother!
Thanks for reminding me to step down my blade - back to the workshop.
You should do a video on basic entry level blacksmith equipment and things u did when you started and things you would of done different
Good job on your first razor Chandler.
I have to admit that I have been avoiding this video not for the video itself, but for the comments. I have to say that I am a bit surprised as there has been some great advice regarding looking into how a razor is made. If you ever have any questions, please ask. Charlie Lewis does indeed grind a nice blade. As do many great razor makers. Also, yes, a razor should be hand honed to a very very high grit. Please avoid advice from knifemakers. Talk to a razor guy
I like it. Thanks for the video CLD jim
I've made straight razors with a flat chisel grind that work just fine! You should try that next time!
Looks good, if you decide to make more I'll take one, keep up the good work
Hey Chandler, excellent first effort. Making a good razor is bit trickier than a knife. A couple of suggestions. First is consider going with a rounded tip similar to what you'll see on a Dovo razor. It'll make for a bit more comfortable shave. Second is you can go with a double hollow grind but it isn't strictly necessary. Earlier versions were flat ground to a shallow angle. You might want to consider going that route until you get a better feel for the best edge angle. Once you understand how the edge angle works you'll find hollow grinding less of a challenge. - Long time straight razor user.
Great vid chandler, razor looks great
I would definitely buy one of these
A little surprised to see you use a single-concave grind. I have several old razors, including one that belonged to my great-grandfather, a Sicilian barber. All of my razors are double-concave ground, in case you need to use a backhanded stroke. BTW, you probably won't want to strop your edge on your forge apron, as Christopher suggests. After you've honed it on a 1000-1200 grit wet whetstone, stropping it on an apron loaded w/dirt, scale and grit is kinda sub-optimal. Just be sure to turn the edge over, not under, at the end of each stroke of the strop.
lebomm johnson i was under the impression that straight razors used a hollow grind on both sides myself
I've been doing my strop strokes under for a long time. Thanks for pointing that out
@@grenmoyo3968 they do he obviously admitted he didn’t know what he was doing, still awesome though, It’s more like a kamasori or a knife
I think the hammer marks just makes it look really nice, not just like a factory made thing.
I think I'm going to try and make one of these next weekend
Chandler: Hey, that razor looks pretty nice. I'd love to have one, but sadly I'm sure I can't afford it on my fixed income. Loved the vid!
love it thanks Chandler, You work like I do, on the spot and with what you got. Love all your vids man
Hilarious how many time you say pull out. LoL. Great vid
Nice razor. For your next one, you should try a double concave or a hollow grind. Most straight razors are ground on both sides.
Really great result, and nice video, even though I hadn't the time to watch the full video.
I always knew you were in New York from the trees.
20 year Oswego resident myself. Left to move to Arizona.
Love the shit out of your videos man.
I have been waiting for this video,
good stuff as always, keep the smaller projects coming
You are a little bit silly and funny with this project. I'm proud of you because you tried to use it. :)
Chandler...... I have got to say great job for the first try fo show. You got some balls trying to shave with a sharp for a knife blade but dull for a razor.. I have never yet tried to make one but as far as I can tell the sharpening needs to be finished on a very high grit whet stone to get a very hair popping keen edge. Literally when the edge is sharp enough to be able to shave your face you should be able to test it on your arm hair and just by touching the hair they should jump off with 0 effort.. I look very forward to you revisiting this at a latter time. o and can I suggest getting yourself a large contact wheel to get that edge correct. Any way I enjoy all your videos and have been watching since the very beginning . I look forward to every new release. Your ethics are amazing and you are a real deal person and that is very respectable for now aday types of people.. very rare.. Oh, Not trying to hijack your channel in anyway but I would be humbled and like to invite you to take a look at my channel and leave a comment. It would be nice to here your take on my work. Very Sincerely, Martin M&S Blades
I think you did a great job I'd buy it but I think I'm going to try and make one
Hey Chandler, I think you are doing a great job despite what it seems like you are going through. I wanted to let you know that you don't necessarily need to add scales to the razor as some are just a one piece razor that can either be put into a sheath or just left out. Otherwise you are doing great! Its all up to the style you want to go with!
Very cool, man, very cool.
"It pulls like a b&@ch!" Lol... not a bad one for your first try Chandler! I would definitely do a little more research before producing many more. A double hollow grind, in my opinion, is the best way to go. That keeps the edge thin and easily sharpened when needed. But once you have the edge you should be able to lay it across the strop and keep it sharp. I shave with a straight razor every morning, and alternate between one of my own that I made and an old German ES=EX no.1. I have faith that you can make some phenomenal razors seeing as you made that one from a bit of mystery steel just laying around! Keep up the great work!
I really liked the curved over end on the blade. Perhaps the next one will have that?
Wow, something that's both useful and beautiful! You're good at that!
(I just came back from a "spiritual retreat" up near Woodstock - the woods and hills are very peaceful and welcoming, and I thought of some of your philosophical videos.)
Please do another floor dust
Grinder dust canister weld!
That was literally the first OSF video I came across. Since then I've watched every single video including all the previous videos in his archive.
That was one of my favs!
please do a frontier damascus
You should either tryout for forged in fire or do the challenge in your shop. Would be interested to see how you do. Rooting 4 ya
Sqwince23 he did try for forged in fire.
what episode?
He wasn't on the actual show but he did a similar challenge by giving himself a time limit in his shop to forge a knife put it through a few tests. It's somewhere back in his videos, probably around a year ago or so.
I remember that challenge video. If memory serves right, his knife turned out pretty good
Sqwince23 no. no
To properly sharpen a straight razor, you need to sand up to at least 1200 grit (preferably much higher, like 2400+) then you set the final edge with a 7500-10,000 grit water stone and knock the burr off the blade with a strop.
good lord he is not going to split atoms.. that would be a nasty wicked sharp edge I only take it to 400 on the belt sander then hand finish up to 800 grit then use a buffing wheel with polishing compound then strop for good measure to finish off any "wires" my knives remove hair with little resistance. But I am going to try your method see if I can get it ridiculously sharp
I'm with John on this one, I want a razor stupid sharp. I usually go from a stone, to a ceramic stone, to a strop
oh buddy. try shaving with a 800 grit edge. it will pop hair off your arm, but your neck will hate you.
Check out Badger and Blade for oodles of straight razor honing info. If you like the feel of an edge off of 800 then more power it you man!
I am restoring a vintage straight I got at an auction. I want to restore it for personal use, so buying stones is a bit much for one blade. Could I stick with water paper or varying grits? Ive got up to 1200 I think. Got a good edge on the blade but not sharp enough for my face just yet.
Good job on the straight razor
Well done. Keep trying! I'm sure you'll only get better with practice!
Cool 4 shaw!
Charlie Lewis has a youtube channel on forging, grinding, and handling straight razors. Lewis Razors.
I shave with a straight razor. Not hard to hone on a barber's razor hone. I made a strop board and dressed it with buffing compound. This a good system for keeping my razors in good condition and "razor sharp!"
I never use a back hand stroke. I change hands when changing sides.
I'd say this is a tedder or rotary rake tine, either way, you can be shure this is good steel, these kind of parts are made to be very abrasion resistant. You might also want to look into harrow / chisel points, discs and plow parts. all of these are wear parts made to stand up to use un highly abrasive environment (the soil)
great job Chandler way better than my first one lol from what ive heard a straight razor needs to be sanded to 6000 grit thats just what ive heard
Need a strop in a pinch? Cardboard is your new best friend.
I think looks good I thought it was suppose to have a double concave grind but I have never made one myself so you might know more than me still came out pretty sweet
Cool chandler! Now, best comment I'll make is the R&D is just starting. Take it along to an actual Barber and talk it over with him... see what he's expecting from a good razor... while he gives you a shave. THAT would make a cracking good video! And might even get you some customers for the Old School Razor.
I wouldn't personally shave against the grain with a straight razor but that's just me :) looks great.
Cool stuff
You deserve my upvote purely for literally putting your neck on the line!
Good job, Chandler. Thee needs to be a second thumb to point up.
Apparently the wooden part of a straight razor isn't the handle, the handle is integral. The wooden part is a guard I think they call it, it's just there to guard the blade and such.
Awesome first go Chandler. Definetly check out Lewis razors. Very clear step by step videos. Keep it up though boss.
as a razor maker this was painful but you got to start some place edge to spine ratio shoudl make the honed edge 15-22 degrees total angle
For a razor you have to obtuse of a angle, for a single hollow grind it should have come almost right to the spine with somewhere around a 10" wheel. Google a hollow grind calculator to calculate the contact wheel size.
Hey Chandler you ever thought about making a Damascus knife before?? Be pretty cool to see what kind of ideas you would come up with
Hope you read this Chandler. As a straight razor user for years, you have a good grind on that razor. a few tips, leave those corners rounded a bit. Much better than having that 90 degree point when trying to shape corners up and other precise trimming. also, check into the japanese style straight razor. it doesnt fold. and once i switched to one id never go back. you could pump these out much quicker without having to jack with handles. also, check into wet stones on amazon to get the final edge after ur grinding. bring her up to 600 and ur good to go. hand forged straight razors go for some decent bucks and old school shaving is really big right now. there is a big big community of wet shavers that love artisan crafted shaving soaps and the hand made razors. great job brother. hope you give this a few more shots. i think you'll find just a few sales will be quite worth the time put in to make one.
Example here: ruclips.net/video/Jm70-HbMsX8/видео.html
Sweet!
Chandler the wood looks like a piece of sycamore
Oh. I almost forgot. Wet your strop with some of your soap. That will aid as a zero-grit polishing medium.
Nice!
It should be concave on both sides but you wanna know that never using straight razors b4. Excellent job I would say For the first time
So... I was watching forged in fire last night because I discovered Hulu has all of the episodes there for free... they were doing the car challenge again, and all of the contestants went for the leaf springs (even in the last one they all went for the coil-overs). I realized though, that none of them went for maybe one of the more obvious pieces... I'm not sure if this particular truck had one, but the lug-wrench should be some kind of tool steel already, I wonder how easy it would be to make a knife out of a car's lug wrench... >_>
You gotta go higher than 600 grit for a razor - and end it with a polishing compound and strop - at least that's how I've got them shaving - but what do I know :D You can get all the stuff from amazon for a cheap price, 8000 grit stone isn't expensive at all.
Where you at man? We miss you
The hollow or concave grind was anywhere from 10"-14" on the contact wheel. At least, that's what they used to do from the 1890 style in San Fran Sisco
A couple of things (from someone who uses a straight razor on a regular basis): Overall nice job. There's no 'right' dimension for a razor, but that blade is REALLY long; shorter and wider would be easier to use (I prefer at least a 5/8" wide blade). Scales are really thick too...you should be able to handle the razor with a light grip. You'll NEVER get the razor sharp enough with a belt sander. NEVER; You need a good set of wet stones...I start at 4,000 go to 8,000 and finish with 10,000. The blade needs a hollow on both sides and should go from the edge to the spine so you can sharpen it with your wet stones. Stropping the blade just polishes it between uses...it doesn't sharpen it. And DON'T run your thumb down the edge of a razor blade! A properly sharpened razor will slice all your skin off!
Not bad for your first time.
I have heard a good test for straight blades is to drop a single hair on the blade and it should cut it.
Hell of a job for your first attempt! Hope my "first attempts" turn out as well. Your handle is definitely Sycamore, not Bocote though 👍😎
In the beginning I was so shocked that you were using such a thin piece of metal. Trial and error right? The grinds are normally extra hollow, quarter hollow, Half follow, then you got the big cleavers like the near wedges, and true wedges
I love watching you at work! Do you think you could tweak your microphone setup though? You're nearly inaudible when you're hammering/grinding/etc and I want to hear what you're saying too! :)
Do they make "polishing" belts for the belt grinder? I wonder how well it would work to take a strip of leather, not unlike that leather belt, and run that on the belt grinder. You could run it on it's own, like leather strop, or even charge it with polishing compound.
Not nearly sharp enough? Um, yeah. That is not far off the mark.
I can't help you with the smithing part, but a little info might help your next try:
A straightedge is NOT done when you pass 600 grit.
The stones needed might be quite an expensive post on any budget, so consider talking to someone in your area.
I know my razor had the bevel set on a 1200 grit stone, was brought through a 4K stone, 6K, 8K and finished on a 10K glasstone.
And it takes and absolute age, and requires tons and tons of patience (again, consider finding help).
Finally, if there ever was an edge, you rolled it over, when you were stropping.
When stropping, you need to make sure the angle between edge and strop is perfect and constant.
Almost every single new straight edge shaver has tried rolling the edge while stropping,
However, props to you for trying to shave with it. Ballsy. Stupid, but ballsy ;)
Hay tedder tine, its long, baler tines are usually short and are a single tooth that had two teeth. Really springy and tough.
I find I need to bring my knives up to around 1000 grit and then a strop before I can shave my face effectively. I go to 7000 grit just to get the best performance I can though.
chandler do you make your soap lard or bacon fat and lie that is the way my grandma made it and it was cooked in an old cast iron skillet i to have made it that way it's fun and boy will it clean. good show keep up the good work.
that video was a close shave,and very hairy.well done
👍🏻😂 Awesome!!!!
I hone my own straight razors. I use the Naniwa Super Stones. My progression goes...
👇🏻
1k
3K
8k
12k
Strop on Chromium oxide (abrasive )
Than strop on fabric side
Then strop leather