I can't count the number of times windows has annoyed me with that "welcome experience" after updates. I had no idea there was a toggle for it in system notifications. Thank you!
A couple of quick tips: If you put anything in sources\$oem$\$1 on the Windows installation media, it'll end up in the root of the drive Windows is installed on. You could put drivers and any apps you plan to install so it'll already be there. It might take longer during the first part of the setup process though. Also, Ctrl+Shift+F3 at the setup screen will get you into audit mode. You could then install the necessary drivers for Wi-Fi so you wouldn't have to skip connecting to a network.
Can you help me out please. I updated by gigabyte b550m K bios to the last version. When I install windows 11, I cannot connect to the wifi... Can you explain for dummies the steps I have to do? Thank you
You actually only need to do that if windows doesn't have wifi drivers for your hardware which is VERY unlikely. Just keep the ethernet cable or wifi connected and select language as English(World) and you will have a fully clean windows 11 install as for some reason it won't install all the microsoft bloatware apps like clipchamp and solitaire. You can then switch back to your normal language.
@@Red-ding-TonThis only works when clean installing windows 11. When asked for region select English(World) and continue as normal with the setup. Once inside windows check the start menu. There is now now bloatware to be found. You still get some windows apps like clock, calculator, etc but those links to tiktok, facebook, clipchamp, etc will all be gone. You can now go into settings and change the lanuage back to whatever you want. Done! :)
As someone who did his fair share of setting up PCs (IT Systemadministrator for 20 years) i really liked this guide and the procedure presentation. Straight "A" from my side. - that Asus armoury crate part of course differs if you purchased another brand MB. I would liked a more open approach, but I understand the descision to film it that way. - I personally don't set my energy plan to high performance, because I try to save even more energy. (personal preference) One setting I always recommend to change is disabling "Turn on fast startup (recommended)" in the "define power button" settings. When this setting is enabled, restarting windows is not truly fully restarting windows and all drivers like it used to be with win 7 and before. Some Drivers get cached and reloaded, which can cause unwanted behaviour even after restarting the system.
During this phase of initial updating of the system, we need to ensure the system does not go into sleep mode while an update is in progress, so we configure the CPU sleep time to "Never". After all the updates are done and the system is ready to rock, then we reconfigure for a proper power plan to save energy.
I enjoy fast startups. On the rare occasion when a "clean" startup is desired, I hold the Shift key when commanding a shutdown, so the system will bypass "fast startup" upon next boot.
@@Chris.Brisson Thank you for adressing my comment. I got the reference in the video, that you meant the power plan setting to be set temporarily, but i kind of hoped you would have adressed it on more time in the end, to turn it back, since this is kind of a beginners guide. That was the sole reasoning behind my comment.
@@Chris.Brisson the thing for me is, that disabling fast startup doesn't really significantly slow down the reboot. Enabling fast startup is more like "make it boot even more fasterer ish", but with the downside of potential stability issues or possible unwanted behaviour. Especially with overclocking I tend to avoid settings that could caus unwanted behaviour. But thank you for the tip with the "shift shutdown" workaround, I will keep that one in mind.
Fast startup is not needed with SSDs, it’s only good with old spinning Hard-Drives cause they take 2 minutes to boot, but in both cases it can cause system instability
Two notes about the very useful BIOS profiles: 1. If you update your BIOS, the saved profiles are deleted (at least, for ASUS). 2. You can save profiles on external devices, such as a thumb drive, so you can keep and reapply them between BIOS updates. Note, however, there is a very tiny but real chance that profiles won't work between updated versions.
Quora and reddit "states" to load default each bios update so this might come in handy. I just update my bios (B450m HDV 4.0) recently and was worried to update my bios since the description has warnings and was using a 2600. till later after 3 years i did, and learned its essential for memory and stability (unless a cpu is dropped based on QVL) now i can use the XMP of my Corsair Vengeance LPX regards it aint a ram kit and bought each separately 😅
Well, I have saved the profile onto a USB drive but when I tried to read it back, the motherboard has not found any suitable file on the USB... 😂 And I have not even updated the UEFI, just wanted to check if the save worked. (This is a Gigabyte board.) 😂
This is helpful, as I have a "Rog strix Z790-A gaming wifi II" and 2x24GB Corsair titanium ram. Due to both the mobo and ram being less than a year old, the bios still doesn't support either of the xmp profiles for the ram, however with each Monthly update more xmp profile support is being added for each brand.
This is such a valuable video, I am about to build my very first PC using all new components, so to watch a video like this is very useful to me, especially as you don’t simply say “do this, then do that” you add a bit of logic and explanation as to why you do it in that particular order, thank you :)
Can I also advocate for a pre-first-power-on system 'tumble'? If you don't build often, tilting the system from front to back and side to side prior to your first power on will help you locate things that are loose, such as screws and / or cables.
Videos like this is exactly what I needed. Im confident in building the physical part of the pc when I eventually save up for all the parts but the software worries me a bit. I've been exclusively on android for years now that I hardly remember how to even work windows not to mention bios updates. I cant wait to get my first build under my belt!
Same here. But this video had the opposite effect on me.. Cometely put me off of building my own. I'd rather go to a pc builder online and have them build it for me.. Would love to experience actually building my own, but don't have anyone that could help me with the software part.... Maybe I'll just stick to my ps4 😂😂😂
Do some research on installing windows from USB disk. Not that difficult to burn a copy to USB then instruct bios to boot from USB. Less pitfalls than putting hardware together and Windows will install necessary drivers to get you going. So much free information out there to help you along the way.
-Computer isn't restarting before progress starts. It does restart at 30%. -Recycle bin confirmation dialog controls only that. If unchecked, deleted items will still go to recycle bin, unless they are too big then Windows will ask for confirmation and THEN it's gone. -Custom nvidia deiver option isnt just to use vlean installation for previous drivers. Most ppl dont need HD Audio or PhysX really. Few games use it these days so some ppl might not want it installed.
Great video! One thing I personally do different is avoid the ASUS Armory Crate, MSI Dragon Center, etc. motherboard software. I once had the MSI Dragon Center auto-install some "cFos packet optimization" software that tanked my internet connection randomly and was a PITA to diagnose...not to mention needing to reinstall Windows to finally fix it. While those "all in one" software management apps provided by motherboard manufactures are a good idea in theory, they are often bloated and take forever to install things (as you experienced). Luckily, you can turn off Armory Crate in the BIOS so that it won't try to auto-install when Windows loads for the first time (make sure to turn it off in the BIOS before you start installing Windows). In the meantime, you can download the drivers from the motherboard manufacturer's website and copy them to a flash drive to be ready when Windows is finished installing. If you have the time, another option is to look up your motherboard's specs and model numbers for the various components (LAN, WiFi, audio, etc.) and download the latest driver for each component manually from the component manufacturer's website (e.g. Intel website for the LAN/WiFi drivers, Realtek website for the audio driver, etc.). This is the best approach as it ensures you get the latest drivers possible, since the drivers listed on the motherboard manufacturer's website are often 1-2 versions behind. Don't forget your Intel or AMD chipset driver either!
I typically do most of that before finishing the hardware installation in case there's something wrong or that needs to be tested separately, I don't have to undo all the wire management. I disable the Search box in the task bar because it's redundant, disable widgets and everything Bing-related. I also like using WinGet in PowerShell to install software, which you can build a script to automate. I don't know if it's still relevant, but I always go into Device Manager, under each of my disk drives and turn off Windows write-cache buffer flushing on the device. It used to improve performance on HDDs, but I'm not sure about SSDs. Also, in File Explorer options, under View, enabling Launch folder windows in a separate process. It used to improve system stability, but I'm not sure if it still matters. And while there, changing Windows Explorer to open to This PC instead of whatever the default is. It's also not a bad idea to go into Windows Features and uninstall anything you don't need, same for Optional Features. Depending on how you are about security, I really like the Clipboard History, which I don't think is enabled by default. When finished I like to make a backup image of the system, which you can do in the Control Panel, under Backup and Restore (Windows 7), then Create a system image. I don't know how much longer that feature will still be there, though.
I've been doing builds and OS installs for decades now, and I have to say this is a really informative walkthrough. Excellent work and I hope this gets the views it deserves👍
@henryyang802, no, resizable bar is a feature of RTX 30 series or Radeon RX 6000 series GPUs that allow the CPU to utilize the full amount of VRAM on your card, rather than storing stuff to the first 256MB. Resizable bar is what nividia calls it, but is called smart access memory for AMD. Unlike AMD GPUs, nivdia GPUs have to have the setting enabled in game, as long as the game supports the feature.
WOW! The contrast of that silver Gigabyte Aero card in the black case really put the sheer size of some of these new graphic cards into perspective. Great tips as well.
I already know how to install PCs and I religiously do 80% of these tips. I appreciate you making this guide and I learned something new! I wanted to uninstall windows 11 because of those extra features and changes like the right click menu. I had no idea it can be changed in the registry. much appreciated for mentioning this!
Just liked and subscribed, u saved my life lol. Was pretty late building my first build and didn't remove the clear sticker on aio block. Temps weren't crazy idle (46c, i7 14700k) now 31c idle. Thx a million to u and ppl who make these reminder videos!!
Just a quick tip. Unless they've changed it then you can access boot menu by pressing F8 instead of DEL when booting and skip entering the BIOS/UEFI on an ASUS motherboard
@@HardwareCanucks yeah, also make clear your BIOS settings will be different in other motherboard brands. Ex: Only Asus call D.O.C.P. while other brands call it XMP even being AMD motherboards.
Not sure if this is still a thing on Windows 11, but for Windows 10 I like to go into Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Power Options\Choose what the power buttons do and uncheck fast startup. Years of "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" have been undone by this setting lol.
Another option to install Windows without a wifi connection (or LAN drivers) is to connect your phone via USB and tether the internet connection when the screen at 10:17 is shown
For those who doesnt want to backup installing a new OS, you can install the new one in the same drive, delete the system reserved parition in the same drive, install, and the old Windows will be renamed "widows.old". No need to backup. Also ideal to unplug the other storage just leaving the soon to be OS.
Your video (plus the inevitable helpful comments here) are quite a valuable resource for one who is about to build a new system. Thank you for posting. I now ring the subscription bell.
@8:31 That's what I always do. Delete the partitions. But another step I also do is before installing windows is I open command prompt. (Shift + F10) Then I type 'diskpart', then 'list disk', then I type 'select disk 0', then I type 'clean'. IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE DRIVES, LIKE HE SAID, DISCONNECT THE OTHER ONES THAT YOU DON'T WANT WINDOWS INSTALLED ON. I've done what he does, by deleting the partitions, install windows. Then I go through stuff that I disable in windows, or enable, and I'm like I disabled/enabled this stuff before. That's why I always clean my drive now.
Whereas a "format" command just removes data and the existing volumes and partitions still remain, the diskpart "clean" command removes existing volumes and partitions, making the whole storage device unallocated.
Small Tipp: When you boot to the Windows Installation USB stick, you can select there Language; "English (World)" this way you won't have a region which means No third-party bloatware will be installed, you can Change your region later in the settings
If you pick English (world) at installation you will avoid all of microsoft's bloatware. Then when is finished you can change your region again inside windows.
Excellent. That is what I always do when setting up my customers/friends/relatives' PCs. In addition, I put the start button at the left and install a start menu replacement. It's kind of an OCD.
LTT has proven themselves dishonest..countless times doctoring their comparison results between various companies' components to reflect that LTT's sponsors' parts are superior and screwing over their competitors which in many cases are, in fact, better. Stick with Hardware Canucks and I'd also recommend channels such as Gamers Nexus and JayzTwoCents. They actually provide unbiased and TRUTHFUL data.
How can you have Drives and folders without an OS installed? (Update BIOS saection 2:14). And you don't need to press Delete to enter BIOS if no OS present OK Only later it was revealed that an OS already was installed. But what if it is a completely new build without previuos OS?
As a it technician/supporter, i can approve all of this, i would use rufus for the setup for windows tho. The time zone is actually really important funny enough, and is also one of the first thing i see to when setting up a knew machine. Good and informative video! :)
@@HardwareCanucks And there's also a toggle in Rufus so that the ISO uses the same time zone/localization settings as you are using when you "burn" the ISO to your USB stick.
4:35 that’s what I came here to say, I only found out a few days ago that I had to disable that setting (which actually means to enable the limits). I can’t stress this enough, if you leave that setting on, IT WILL ABSOLUTELY FRY YOUR CPU. The higher end your cpu is, the faster it will die - and it voids your warranty because you’re not using it within the limits intel has provided. Edit: the improvement you get from this is like 1%. Not even noticeable.
Device Installaltion Settings are also needed to be turned off so Windows Update doesn't automatically install your graphics driver. Especially if you're using AMD cards. Turning off that setting solves driver crash issue people been having on AMD cards. Maybe because AMD drivers that you've downloaded from the web and downloaded from Windows Update are overriding each other.
@@Red-ding-TonJust click on the Windows Taskbar's search box and type "change device installation settings" and open the program that has the same name. Next, just pick "No" and "Save changes"
@@Red-ding-Ton Just search "Change device installation settings" in the Windows search box at the taskbar. Open the first app result, change the option to "No", then save changes.
Hey great video, nice tips, haven't done a PC build since 2018, with my 30+ yrs of computer experience, I still like to stay informed and expand my knowledge! Thanks for the video 😁
Another tip! Use disk part! This can be a great way to get info on your drives (list disk > select disk > detail disk) and it'll tell you the make and name of it. I like to clean my drives this way too. Lastly, sometimes if you install windows on your drive, it'll be in MBR mode (this is old and isn't compatible with newer UEFI features). One way to avoid this is with disk part and to select your drive that you want to put windows on, then "convert gpt" will put it in gpt mode instead of MBR! This may seem unnecessary, and in some cases it is, but once you put windows on it, you can't do this later. This will allow you to use some newer features compared to the older MBR feature set.
@@coolcat23 ah, didn't know about this drawback either! I always make sure my boot drives are in gpt for every build. My first build wasn't and I couldn't do some things and I wasssssss sadddddd lol learning experience for sure!
I also dont know this drawback either. I just build my new pc and Im on windows 11 now with mbr format and if i have to enable uefi i have to disable csm first and to do that i have to reformat my primary drive to gpt first which i still havent tried yet cuz my windows file are all on my primary c drive which sucks. I have to do a clean install again and im to afraid to do that know cuz it may cause issues since fucking mbr cant edit my bios to enable or disable this uefi csm fuckers, cant play valorant with windows 11 on mbr format, and i fucking partitioned it i still have no idea what todo with it if i want to unpartition it would it be the one be formated if i convert it to gpt or not?
If u guys have the same issues do u guys know safest way to solve this or do i really need to start all over again with clean install and how can we format our drivers first to gpt b4 installing windows 11 again so that it will those files on on gpt format not mbr?
Windows 11 requires TPM to be enabled in the BIOS so maybe that should be among the first things to check. Windows Update will have to be checked multiple times, even after it says you’re up to date. My personal settings: -System>Power>High Performance>Screen and sleep (device) to never turn off when plugged in. Back to System>Multitasking off >select don’t show tabs. Back to System>Notifications off. -Personalization>Start>More pins>turn off show recently added apps and everything else on that page. Back to Personalization>Taskbar>turn everything off. -Gaming>I only leave game mode on since I prefer faster FPS rather than recording gameplay. -Accessibility>Mouse pointer>I select the one with color then I change the color and increase the size to #2. -Windows Update> Select get the latest updates>Advanced Options>turn on Receive updates for other Microsoft products>turn on Get me up to date>turn on Notify me when a restart is required to finish updating>Additional options>check for Optional updates. -Apps>Startup>I turn everything off. -I download Firefox, Ccleaner, and Google Chrome>change to default. -Microsoft Store>Library>Get updates. After the system and browsers are updated, I type CMD, select administrator and enter: -Dism /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth When finished select the arrow up on the keyboard to repopulate and just use the backspace to erase the last word or just type: -Dism /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth When finished again select the arrow up on the keyboard to repopulate and just use the backspace to erase the last word or just type: -Dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth When finished type: sfc/scannow When finished type: winget upgrade --all (for more updates) An error often means the Microsoft Store App installer needs updating first. My weekly dism routine above isn’t case sensitive and repairs corruptions.
When installing Windows 10 on a system wot would support Windows 11, one can disable TPM in the BIOS to prevent Microsoft from tricking you into "upgrading" to Windows 11.
First thing you should do in a fresh windows install is to disable the keylogging and information collecting telemetry as well as shellbags! Unless you like MS tracking every thing you type and all the files that you open or run on your computer, that is. The Hellzerg optimizer is a good program to get you started there!
I would add storage optimization and storage sense, enabling resizable bar doesnt hurt and maybe disabling fast boot in windows (change what power button does) so it actually turns off your pc
Do not use the Full-speed option in the AIO Pump Q-Fan control on motherboard as this just increases pump noise, pump wear and does not really reduce temps much. Recommend a brilliant software called Fan Control, here you can customize i.e. the pump speed depending on any value (i.e. CPU load or temperature). Used this on my EK 360 and it is dead silent and still cooling perfectly in any conditions. Also prolonges the lifespan of the AIO pump.
7:15 you will still get the "standard" windows 11 23H2 that's out from some months and will need to install cumulative anyways. just use the default iso or use an already updated one. 11:22 Remember to DISABLE that shit rootkit armory crate force installer from BIOS, thank you Asus.
Really great advice, and I love your accent. Also, we used to make fun of Microsoft percent bars since they were never accurate. I love that you have faith that anything would have changed in that regard
After the initial bios update, you forgot to say to load defaults and restart. I always have it reapply defaults when moving to a new bios, just in case any options were changed or added as part of the new one. After that you can go redo your XMP/EXPO and whatever other changes you've made.
Great video, man! I like this style of "over the shoulder" kind of way. Microsoft is very on the nose with their AI b.s. lately. Latest Windows update left me with it where the notification icon used to be. Couldn't figure out how to get rid of it on my laptop, so swapped for Linux (which is why I'd bought that laptop anyway).
Man thanks for this. Getting ready for a new build and the motherboard I’m using I’ve read has issues with the lan driver on windows 11. I’ve been stressing it but now… wheeew . Again, awesome video !!! Thanks
One PSA: On some/most ASUS MBs, the ONLY port that will work for flashing the Mobo is the USB that is closest/on-top of the HDMI output in the Mobo… it can be USB C shaped or older… this tip will save you COUNTLESS HOURS of research which unfortunately, I had to invest in due to ignorance. Good luck!
I built my grandsons computer a few years ago and I forgot to pull the film from the aio. It was left that way for about 3 months. The CPU ran a little hot but nothing too bad. I thought maybe I had a bad seat so I decided to apply new paste and re-seat it. That's when I discovered my mistake...LOL
12:45 the GPU temperature is also available in Windows 10 Task Manager, FWIW. I don't know when they added that (I don't think it was in the inital release) but I'm currently running 22H2.
If you put a random, invalid email address in the sign in screen, windows will let you create a local account without opening cmd. And if you select English (World) as a language, you get rid of the pre-installed crap (which apparently varies per region). ThioJoe made a video about it.
When you turn on XMP also turn on "ReSize BAR" Speed tweak for your GPU. Also I would not set Power plan 'High performance' default. one of the things it does on Intel is set the CPU to 100% Clocks (even at Idle) using Balanced or going into advanced and making sure 'Processor management' is set for 'minimum Processor state' of 5%. This allows the CPU to change clock speeds dynamically, for example down at Idle and low load, keeping the power draw down and CPU cooler, and also fans quieter. - its not a real world performance hit either as the CPU can up clocks in milliseconds.
In the windows installation. You can also write explorer.exe in the cmd. File explorer will start and you can install LAN drivers with a usb stick or if you got them on a secondary drive. So you dont have to override the internet setup if you dont want to.
I always rename my C drive to OS. If you don't rename your C drive, then it won't show up at the windows setup screen ( @8:04 ). So when I see the drive named OS, then I know that is the drive #, that I need to work with.
I always create two partitions on the first drive. 128Gb for Windows and another with the rest for programs and games. In case you have to reinstall windows you don't need to reinstall everything
Hey guys, what is the best cooling setup for dual tower coolers? 1) Fan, tower, fan, tower 2) tower, fan, tower, fan 3)fan, tower, fan, tower, fan or 4) tower, fan, tower?
You forgot to check ReBAR... I have a bootable stress test stick. I tweak/enable/overclock/undervolt everything in the BIOS, test linpack and memtest64 for half an hour and then proceed with windows installation and further long time tests. If there is something noticeably wrong with the hardware, and it cannot perform as wanted, there is no point installing the OS to find out. Also, you wait more for installation and updates if you disable the OC features.
I have one of those cheap chunky rgb GPU braces, its wide enough to cover the gpu power port, and deep enough that the cable can run through with only a small loop above it to relieve strain. The RGB is not a must but I do like the screen mirror lighting, so it does add a bit more of that when I linked it to my corsair icue bloatware. Its the DeepCool GH-01 ADD RGB
@@nozersOnce you install it, it hogs resources and slows down the system for no good reason and it's hard to get rid of without leaving half of it still on the system. It also causes an untold number of conflicts with other software you might want to use, including but not limited to software for peripherals like your mouse and keyboard or software for other mainboard related features. Or your GPU... The list goes on. Asus continues to put all sorts all sorts of bloat- and adware in there. If you want to dig deeper into this just search for it and you will find lots of people online that describe their issues with Armory Crate.
He's right. Sure it might be handy to gather some driver updates but it's straight bloatware, runs in the background sucking up resources all the time, you uninstall it and random files linger, slow functioning and poor GUI, it's pretty awful bit of software
@@itsLastHourlol it’s typical app you check once in while to update drivers easy it’s not bloat ware bloat ware something like windows store install like stupid card games or stupid random apps Facebook
I've found armoury crate to be a necessary evil. I have a build with a 14700k (drag me, I know): neither Intel nor Asus listed the very basic drivers I needed (thunderbolt, smbus, io, tpu, and something else) so armoury crate was the only way I got them. I was wracking my brain and scouring the web for like 2 days on the brink of insanity. I finally installed armoury crate, and it quickly populated all the drivers and updates and did them, including the BIOS update. And then ofc I uninstalled that shit ASAP using the Asus uninstall tool. Since then I've installed it once more after a recent chipset and BIOS update. Armoury crate is basically a necessity, just gotta keep the uninstall tool on hand.
I'd love a video on how to make sure your pc is constantly up to date! I bought mine through a company who custom built it for me, but they installed most of the things without really telling me how or what they installed.. So I had to kind of figure it out all on my own. I run an msi mobo and usually just use msi center to check for updates, as well as the window installs but that is it. I've always wondered if I need to go keep up to date with new drivers from intel and what not separately.
I’ve followed this video perfectly but I still can’t figure out why I’m getting .DLL error for d5 render and direct x error for call of duty. Please help 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I just built my pc but I have two ssd drives and only the main one appears, when I look for the other one in devices and try to populate it, it simply doesn’t let me. I try to initialize it and create a partition and nothing is there. Any suggestions?
Another reason to disconnect all other drives during Windows install is that if any of the other drives have/had Windows on them and the boot partition remains on them Windows can end up using the wrong drive to boot the install. I saw this happen where Windows was on a HDD, and a new install on a SSD. It decided to use the boot partition on the HDD to load Windows on the SSD.
I am not sure if that was in video (I didn't remember), but first thing I always disable is the multiple ctrl or shift keypresses -- like if I push shift key 5 times, it opens some kind of dialogue box, I disable everything 😀
10:30 I've installed wifi cards that work without drivers for the purpose of installing windows over a wifi connection. So yeah, bit of misinformation there as it is possible to do so
I can't count the number of times windows has annoyed me with that "welcome experience" after updates. I had no idea there was a toggle for it in system notifications. Thank you!
Buy Steam games that we will never play!
Of course 👍 the only way to Steam.
-D.
He might get to them someday…
@@The-Real-Kevincopium 😂
@@The-Real-Kevin...someday...
I play 2 games maybe 3. Everyone like dl this game or that game fk that. I ain't got time for so many games lol 😅
A couple of quick tips: If you put anything in sources\$oem$\$1 on the Windows installation media, it'll end up in the root of the drive Windows is installed on. You could put drivers and any apps you plan to install so it'll already be there. It might take longer during the first part of the setup process though.
Also, Ctrl+Shift+F3 at the setup screen will get you into audit mode. You could then install the necessary drivers for Wi-Fi so you wouldn't have to skip connecting to a network.
Oh great tips! Didn’t know about the sources folder. Thanks 🙏
-D.
i belive skipping network is because u cant create offline account when connected to internet.
Can you help me out please. I updated by gigabyte b550m K bios to the last version. When I install windows 11, I cannot connect to the wifi... Can you explain for dummies the steps I have to do? Thank you
Thanks for this info Blake, much appreciated.
This is a GREAT overview of all the initial conifg to be done on a new build / OS deployment; thanks for putting this all in one place.
Though tbh it would have been great to have the registry thing there too...
Yes because typed articles of similar all in one themes and much less printed MANUALS are non existent
Never knew about the shift-right click, thank you so much
That LAN/WIFI requirement bypass was gold!
You actually only need to do that if windows doesn't have wifi drivers for your hardware which is VERY unlikely. Just keep the ethernet cable or wifi connected and select language as English(World) and you will have a fully clean windows 11 install as for some reason it won't install all the microsoft bloatware apps like clipchamp and solitaire. You can then switch back to your normal language.
@@Fezzy976 Really? So i only need to change language?
@@Red-ding-TonThis only works when clean installing windows 11. When asked for region select English(World) and continue as normal with the setup. Once inside windows check the start menu. There is now now bloatware to be found. You still get some windows apps like clock, calculator, etc but those links to tiktok, facebook, clipchamp, etc will all be gone.
You can now go into settings and change the lanuage back to whatever you want. Done! :)
did not know this@@Fezzy976
As someone who did his fair share of setting up PCs (IT Systemadministrator for 20 years) i really liked this guide and the procedure presentation. Straight "A" from my side.
- that Asus armoury crate part of course differs if you purchased another brand MB. I would liked a more open approach, but I understand the descision to film it that way.
- I personally don't set my energy plan to high performance, because I try to save even more energy. (personal preference)
One setting I always recommend to change is disabling "Turn on fast startup (recommended)" in the "define power button" settings. When this setting is enabled, restarting windows is not truly fully restarting windows and all drivers like it used to be with win 7 and before. Some Drivers get cached and reloaded, which can cause unwanted behaviour even after restarting the system.
During this phase of initial updating of the system, we need to ensure the system does not go into sleep mode while an update is in progress, so we configure the CPU sleep time to "Never". After all the updates are done and the system is ready to rock, then we reconfigure for a proper power plan to save energy.
I enjoy fast startups. On the rare occasion when a "clean" startup is desired, I hold the Shift key when commanding a shutdown, so the system will bypass "fast startup" upon next boot.
@@Chris.Brisson Thank you for adressing my comment. I got the reference in the video, that you meant the power plan setting to be set temporarily, but i kind of hoped you would have adressed it on more time in the end, to turn it back, since this is kind of a beginners guide.
That was the sole reasoning behind my comment.
@@Chris.Brisson the thing for me is, that disabling fast startup doesn't really significantly slow down the reboot. Enabling fast startup is more like "make it boot even more fasterer ish", but with the downside of potential stability issues or possible unwanted behaviour. Especially with overclocking I tend to avoid settings that could caus unwanted behaviour. But thank you for the tip with the "shift shutdown" workaround, I will keep that one in mind.
Fast startup is not needed with SSDs, it’s only good with old spinning Hard-Drives cause they take 2 minutes to boot, but in both cases it can cause system instability
Two notes about the very useful BIOS profiles:
1. If you update your BIOS, the saved profiles are deleted (at least, for ASUS).
2. You can save profiles on external devices, such as a thumb drive, so you can keep and reapply them between BIOS updates. Note, however, there is a very tiny but real chance that profiles won't work between updated versions.
Yes, for msi mb the profile won't work across different bios ver. I had to take notes of my setting everytime and apply them manually
Quora and reddit "states" to load default each bios update so this might come in handy. I just update my bios (B450m HDV 4.0) recently and was worried to update my bios since the description has warnings and was using a 2600. till later after 3 years i did, and learned its essential for memory and stability (unless a cpu is dropped based on QVL) now i can use the XMP of my Corsair Vengeance LPX regards it aint a ram kit and bought each separately 😅
If you update the BIOS always check if firmware is included. Using a BIOS without firmware will cause super annoying problems you can’t place.
Well, I have saved the profile onto a USB drive but when I tried to read it back, the motherboard has not found any suitable file on the USB... 😂
And I have not even updated the UEFI, just wanted to check if the save worked. (This is a Gigabyte board.) 😂
This is helpful, as I have a "Rog strix Z790-A gaming wifi II" and 2x24GB Corsair titanium ram.
Due to both the mobo and ram being less than a year old, the bios still doesn't support either of the xmp profiles for the ram, however with each Monthly update more xmp profile support is being added for each brand.
This is such a valuable video, I am about to build my very first PC using all new components, so to watch a video like this is very useful to me, especially as you don’t simply say “do this, then do that” you add a bit of logic and explanation as to why you do it in that particular order, thank you :)
Can I also advocate for a pre-first-power-on system 'tumble'? If you don't build often, tilting the system from front to back and side to side prior to your first power on will help you locate things that are loose, such as screws and / or cables.
Them damn screws can screw you!
Videos like this is exactly what I needed. Im confident in building the physical part of the pc when I eventually save up for all the parts but the software worries me a bit. I've been exclusively on android for years now that I hardly remember how to even work windows not to mention bios updates. I cant wait to get my first build under my belt!
Same here. But this video had the opposite effect on me.. Cometely put me off of building my own. I'd rather go to a pc builder online and have them build it for me.. Would love to experience actually building my own, but don't have anyone that could help me with the software part.... Maybe I'll just stick to my ps4 😂😂😂
Do some research on installing windows from USB disk. Not that difficult to burn a copy to USB then instruct bios to boot from USB. Less pitfalls than putting hardware together and Windows will install necessary drivers to get you going. So much free information out there to help you along the way.
-Computer isn't restarting before progress starts. It does restart at 30%.
-Recycle bin confirmation dialog controls only that. If unchecked, deleted items will still go to recycle bin, unless they are too big then Windows will ask for confirmation and THEN it's gone.
-Custom nvidia deiver option isnt just to use vlean installation for previous drivers. Most ppl dont need HD Audio or PhysX really. Few games use it these days so some ppl might not want it installed.
This is one of the best steps to take after building a PC or getting a new pre-build. Not many mentions the AIO Pump Speed.
Literally just installed windows on my new pc, and now I'm ready for your new video 😁
This is the best set-up/install video I've ever seen.
Very nice.
Just building my new PC today and this video comes out... PERFECT timing. Thank you.
Great video! One thing I personally do different is avoid the ASUS Armory Crate, MSI Dragon Center, etc. motherboard software. I once had the MSI Dragon Center auto-install some "cFos packet optimization" software that tanked my internet connection randomly and was a PITA to diagnose...not to mention needing to reinstall Windows to finally fix it. While those "all in one" software management apps provided by motherboard manufactures are a good idea in theory, they are often bloated and take forever to install things (as you experienced).
Luckily, you can turn off Armory Crate in the BIOS so that it won't try to auto-install when Windows loads for the first time (make sure to turn it off in the BIOS before you start installing Windows). In the meantime, you can download the drivers from the motherboard manufacturer's website and copy them to a flash drive to be ready when Windows is finished installing.
If you have the time, another option is to look up your motherboard's specs and model numbers for the various components (LAN, WiFi, audio, etc.) and download the latest driver for each component manually from the component manufacturer's website (e.g. Intel website for the LAN/WiFi drivers, Realtek website for the audio driver, etc.). This is the best approach as it ensures you get the latest drivers possible, since the drivers listed on the motherboard manufacturer's website are often 1-2 versions behind. Don't forget your Intel or AMD chipset driver either!
I typically do most of that before finishing the hardware installation in case there's something wrong or that needs to be tested separately, I don't have to undo all the wire management. I disable the Search box in the task bar because it's redundant, disable widgets and everything Bing-related. I also like using WinGet in PowerShell to install software, which you can build a script to automate.
I don't know if it's still relevant, but I always go into Device Manager, under each of my disk drives and turn off Windows write-cache buffer flushing on the device. It used to improve performance on HDDs, but I'm not sure about SSDs. Also, in File Explorer options, under View, enabling Launch folder windows in a separate process. It used to improve system stability, but I'm not sure if it still matters. And while there, changing Windows Explorer to open to This PC instead of whatever the default is.
It's also not a bad idea to go into Windows Features and uninstall anything you don't need, same for Optional Features. Depending on how you are about security, I really like the Clipboard History, which I don't think is enabled by default. When finished I like to make a backup image of the system, which you can do in the Control Panel, under Backup and Restore (Windows 7), then Create a system image. I don't know how much longer that feature will still be there, though.
I've been doing builds and OS installs for decades now, and I have to say this is a really informative walkthrough. Excellent work and I hope this gets the views it deserves👍
You forgot to turn on re-sizable bar, also check and make sure TPM and Secure Boot is on
Resizable tan bar? You mean it can be smaller like on windows 10?
@@leonardog.2491rebar is a gpu settings either in bios or nvidia control panel.
@@leonardog.2491 Its a feature that i believe is AMD specific. It enables the GPU to use the full BW of the PCI-E lane
@henryyang802, no, resizable bar is a feature of RTX 30 series or Radeon RX 6000 series GPUs that allow the CPU to utilize the full amount of VRAM on your card, rather than storing stuff to the first 256MB. Resizable bar is what nividia calls it, but is called smart access memory for AMD. Unlike AMD GPUs, nivdia GPUs have to have the setting enabled in game, as long as the game supports the feature.
@@electrothecat Yeah, I just read up on it again. SAM is the AMD feature, while Re-Sizebar is the generic implementation of this feature
WOW! The contrast of that silver Gigabyte Aero card in the black case really put the sheer size of some of these new graphic cards into perspective. Great tips as well.
I already know how to install PCs and I religiously do 80% of these tips. I appreciate you making this guide and I learned something new! I wanted to uninstall windows 11 because of those extra features and changes like the right click menu. I had no idea it can be changed in the registry. much appreciated for mentioning this!
Thanks for the shout out Paul. Great builds! Glad to get more builders help on their lists! :)
Just liked and subscribed, u saved my life lol. Was pretty late building my first build and didn't remove the clear sticker on aio block. Temps weren't crazy idle (46c, i7 14700k) now 31c idle. Thx a million to u and ppl who make these reminder videos!!
Just a quick tip. Unless they've changed it then you can access boot menu by pressing F8 instead of DEL when booting and skip entering the BIOS/UEFI on an ASUS motherboard
During BIOS configuration, you should enable Resize BAR.
It was enabled by default, but yes I should have mentioned it.
-D.
@@HardwareCanucks yeah, also make clear your BIOS settings will be different in other motherboard brands.
Ex: Only Asus call D.O.C.P. while other brands call it XMP even being AMD motherboards.
@@HardwareCanucksEnabling ReBAR enhances performance for some games but makes it worse for others. Worth pointing out, I believe.
I thought the Resize BAR feature was for when you have both CPU and GPU being an AMD brand?
Videos like this feel like a warm blanket, excellent tips !!!
Not sure if this is still a thing on Windows 11, but for Windows 10 I like to go into Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Power Options\Choose what the power buttons do and uncheck fast startup. Years of "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" have been undone by this setting lol.
Another option to install Windows without a wifi connection (or LAN drivers) is to connect your phone via USB and tether the internet connection when the screen at 10:17 is shown
That's cool if it works. Noted.
@@DaKrawnik did my first build last weekend and worked for me with my Android phone.
I've used my iphone for it too.
For those who doesnt want to backup installing a new OS, you can install the new one in the same drive, delete the system reserved parition in the same drive, install, and the old Windows will be renamed "widows.old". No need to backup. Also ideal to unplug the other storage just leaving the soon to be OS.
Your video (plus the inevitable helpful comments here) are quite a valuable resource for one who is about to build a new system. Thank you for posting. I now ring the subscription bell.
Wish this would have been made yesterday. Built a similar pc and had major problems with the time not being set properly
I’ve encountered my fair share of issues, only to realize the time and region was not set properly.
-D.
Thank you for such a comprehensive and easy to follow vid. I've done so many installs but still learned some new stuff.
@8:31 That's what I always do. Delete the partitions.
But another step I also do is before installing windows is I open command prompt. (Shift + F10)
Then I type 'diskpart', then 'list disk', then I type 'select disk 0', then I type 'clean'. IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE DRIVES, LIKE HE SAID, DISCONNECT THE OTHER ONES THAT YOU DON'T WANT WINDOWS INSTALLED ON.
I've done what he does, by deleting the partitions, install windows. Then I go through stuff that I disable in windows, or enable, and I'm like I disabled/enabled this stuff before.
That's why I always clean my drive now.
Whereas a "format" command just removes data and the existing volumes and partitions still remain, the diskpart "clean" command removes existing volumes and partitions, making the whole storage device unallocated.
Small Tipp: When you boot to the Windows Installation USB stick, you can select there Language; "English (World)" this way you won't have a region which means No third-party bloatware will be installed, you can Change your region later in the settings
Are there any impacts to English world vs norm? Just asking as this sounds like a great idea :)
Perfect guide Dimitri, people tend to forget other essential drivers such as chipset serial io etc. thank you for your work appreciated!
If you pick English (world) at installation you will avoid all of microsoft's bloatware. Then when is finished you can change your region again inside windows.
Huh, never knew that. Thanks for the tip!
Oh damn.. love this community edit: thanks!
This has been updated so once you do choose a region you get all the bloat.
What a great little video! Full of helpful information, tips and tricks. Many thanks!
Excellent. That is what I always do when setting up my customers/friends/relatives' PCs. In addition, I put the start button at the left and install a start menu replacement. It's kind of an OCD.
Súper helpful - You are beginning to become my next go to channel after LTT
LTT has proven themselves dishonest..countless times doctoring their comparison results between various companies' components to reflect that LTT's sponsors' parts are superior and screwing over their competitors which in many cases are, in fact, better. Stick with Hardware Canucks and I'd also recommend channels such as Gamers Nexus and JayzTwoCents. They actually provide unbiased and TRUTHFUL data.
How can you have Drives and folders without an OS installed? (Update BIOS saection 2:14). And you don't need to press Delete to enter BIOS if no OS present
OK Only later it was revealed that an OS already was installed. But what if it is a completely new build without previuos OS?
As a it technician/supporter, i can approve all of this, i would use rufus for the setup for windows tho. The time zone is actually really important funny enough, and is also one of the first thing i see to when setting up a knew machine. Good and informative video! :)
Yeah, Eber mentioned using Rufus to create a bootable USB with a WiFi bypass.
-D.
@@HardwareCanucks And there's also a toggle in Rufus so that the ISO uses the same time zone/localization settings as you are using when you "burn" the ISO to your USB stick.
11:26 Can you please explain in more detail what you did? How can I pre-install my driver for the next reset?
4:35 that’s what I came here to say, I only found out a few days ago that I had to disable that setting (which actually means to enable the limits). I can’t stress this enough, if you leave that setting on, IT WILL ABSOLUTELY FRY YOUR CPU. The higher end your cpu is, the faster it will die - and it voids your warranty because you’re not using it within the limits intel has provided.
Edit: the improvement you get from this is like 1%. Not even noticeable.
The keyboard sounds so nice :)
It really does, and feels amazing 🤩 the Asus ROG Azoth 75% wireless. My daily keyboard on the gaming system.
-D.
Device Installaltion Settings are also needed to be turned off so Windows Update doesn't automatically install your graphics driver. Especially if you're using AMD cards. Turning off that setting solves driver crash issue people been having on AMD cards.
Maybe because AMD drivers that you've downloaded from the web and downloaded from Windows Update are overriding each other.
How to do that?
@@Red-ding-TonJust click on the Windows Taskbar's search box and type "change device installation settings" and open the program that has the same name.
Next, just pick "No" and "Save changes"
@@Red-ding-Ton Just search "Change device installation settings" in the Windows search box at the taskbar. Open the first app result, change the option to "No", then save changes.
Hey great video, nice tips, haven't done a PC build since 2018, with my 30+ yrs of computer experience, I still like to stay informed and expand my knowledge! Thanks for the video 😁
You forgot about Windows Debloater, which makes life so much easier
I remember when it was so easy to pick a boot drive, be pressing f2, and have a menu pop up.
Now they added 2 extra steps.
Try F10
@@psymax8000 That feature is gone as of Windows 10.
F8 I promise
@@saulgoodman2018 I think you're confused
@@saulgoodman2018 The boot menu is a feature of the motherboard and not windows
Turn off Armory Crate in the BIOS.
Another tip! Use disk part!
This can be a great way to get info on your drives (list disk > select disk > detail disk) and it'll tell you the make and name of it.
I like to clean my drives this way too.
Lastly, sometimes if you install windows on your drive, it'll be in MBR mode (this is old and isn't compatible with newer UEFI features). One way to avoid this is with disk part and to select your drive that you want to put windows on, then "convert gpt" will put it in gpt mode instead of MBR!
This may seem unnecessary, and in some cases it is, but once you put windows on it, you can't do this later. This will allow you to use some newer features compared to the older MBR feature set.
MBR mode limits drive sizes to 2TB. So if anyone is using a boot drive with more than 2TB capacity, MBR should definitely be avoided.
@@coolcat23 ah, didn't know about this drawback either! I always make sure my boot drives are in gpt for every build. My first build wasn't and I couldn't do some things and I wasssssss sadddddd lol learning experience for sure!
I also dont know this drawback either. I just build my new pc and Im on windows 11 now with mbr format and if i have to enable uefi i have to disable csm first and to do that i have to reformat my primary drive to gpt first which i still havent tried yet cuz my windows file are all on my primary c drive which sucks. I have to do a clean install again and im to afraid to do that know cuz it may cause issues since fucking mbr cant edit my bios to enable or disable this uefi csm fuckers, cant play valorant with windows 11 on mbr format, and i fucking partitioned it i still have no idea what todo with it if i want to unpartition it would it be the one be formated if i convert it to gpt or not?
If u guys have the same issues do u guys know safest way to solve this or do i really need to start all over again with clean install and how can we format our drivers first to gpt b4 installing windows 11 again so that it will those files on on gpt format not mbr?
Windows 11 requires TPM to be enabled in the BIOS so maybe that should be among the first things to check.
Windows Update will have to be checked multiple times, even after it says you’re up to date.
My personal settings:
-System>Power>High Performance>Screen and sleep (device) to never turn off when plugged in. Back to System>Multitasking off >select don’t show tabs. Back to System>Notifications off.
-Personalization>Start>More pins>turn off show recently added apps and everything else on that page. Back to Personalization>Taskbar>turn everything off.
-Gaming>I only leave game mode on since I prefer faster FPS rather than recording gameplay.
-Accessibility>Mouse pointer>I select the one with color then I change the color and increase the size to #2.
-Windows Update> Select get the latest updates>Advanced Options>turn on Receive updates for other Microsoft products>turn on Get me up to date>turn on Notify me when a restart is required to finish updating>Additional options>check for Optional updates.
-Apps>Startup>I turn everything off.
-I download Firefox, Ccleaner, and Google Chrome>change to default.
-Microsoft Store>Library>Get updates.
After the system and browsers are updated, I type CMD, select administrator and enter:
-Dism /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth
When finished select the arrow up on the keyboard to repopulate and just use the backspace to erase the last word or just type:
-Dism /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth
When finished again select the arrow up on the keyboard to repopulate and just use the backspace to erase the last word or just type:
-Dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
When finished type: sfc/scannow
When finished type: winget upgrade --all (for more updates) An error often means the Microsoft Store App installer needs updating first.
My weekly dism routine above isn’t case sensitive and repairs corruptions.
When installing Windows 10 on a system wot would support Windows 11, one can disable TPM in the BIOS to prevent Microsoft from tricking you into "upgrading" to Windows 11.
@@Chris.Brisson W11 is ok, why not upgrading esp. if its free upgrade
@@milordas "It's a trap."
First thing you should do in a fresh windows install is to disable the keylogging and information collecting telemetry as well as shellbags! Unless you like MS tracking every thing you type and all the files that you open or run on your computer, that is. The Hellzerg optimizer is a good program to get you started there!
I would add storage optimization and storage sense, enabling resizable bar doesnt hurt and maybe disabling fast boot in windows (change what power button does) so it actually turns off your pc
Do not use the Full-speed option in the AIO Pump Q-Fan control on motherboard as this just increases pump noise, pump wear and does not really reduce temps much. Recommend a brilliant software called Fan Control, here you can customize i.e. the pump speed depending on any value (i.e. CPU load or temperature). Used this on my EK 360 and it is dead silent and still cooling perfectly in any conditions. Also prolonges the lifespan of the AIO pump.
7:15 you will still get the "standard" windows 11 23H2 that's out from some months and will need to install cumulative anyways. just use the default iso or use an already updated one.
11:22 Remember to DISABLE that shit rootkit armory crate force installer from BIOS, thank you Asus.
Really great advice, and I love your accent. Also, we used to make fun of Microsoft percent bars since they were never accurate. I love that you have faith that anything would have changed in that regard
After the initial bios update, you forgot to say to load defaults and restart. I always have it reapply defaults when moving to a new bios, just in case any options were changed or added as part of the new one. After that you can go redo your XMP/EXPO and whatever other changes you've made.
Great video, man! I like this style of "over the shoulder" kind of way. Microsoft is very on the nose with their AI b.s. lately. Latest Windows update left me with it where the notification icon used to be. Couldn't figure out how to get rid of it on my laptop, so swapped for Linux (which is why I'd bought that laptop anyway).
Man thanks for this. Getting ready for a new build and the motherboard I’m using I’ve read has issues with the lan driver on windows 11. I’ve been stressing it but now… wheeew . Again, awesome video !!! Thanks
2:32 there write there you need to update MEdriver before flash bios. Its correct did i really need to do it????
I'll rewatch when i finish building my 2024 system for sure!
One PSA: On some/most ASUS MBs, the ONLY port that will work for flashing the Mobo is the USB that is closest/on-top of the HDMI output in the Mobo… it can be USB C shaped or older… this tip will save you COUNTLESS HOURS of research which unfortunately, I had to invest in due to ignorance.
Good luck!
I built my grandsons computer a few years ago and I forgot to pull the film from the aio. It was left that way for about 3 months. The CPU ran a little hot but nothing too bad. I thought maybe I had a bad seat so I decided to apply new paste and re-seat it. That's when I discovered my mistake...LOL
12:45 the GPU temperature is also available in Windows 10 Task Manager, FWIW. I don't know when they added that (I don't think it was in the inital release) but I'm currently running 22H2.
I would call myself an experienced PC veteran. Shift + Right-Click to open more options on Windows 11 blew my mind.
Turn off fast startup in power settings. Fast startup causes your computer to not completely restart or shutdown. It's sort of like a hibernate mode.
If you put a random, invalid email address in the sign in screen, windows will let you create a local account without opening cmd. And if you select English (World) as a language, you get rid of the pre-installed crap (which apparently varies per region). ThioJoe made a video about it.
SSD firmware update and 4G decoding with Resizable Bar turned on
When you turn on XMP also turn on "ReSize BAR" Speed tweak for your GPU.
Also I would not set Power plan 'High performance' default. one of the things it does on Intel is set the CPU to 100% Clocks (even at Idle) using Balanced or going into advanced and making sure 'Processor management' is set for 'minimum Processor state' of 5%. This allows the CPU to change clock speeds dynamically, for example down at Idle and low load, keeping the power draw down and CPU cooler, and also fans quieter. - its not a real world performance hit either as the CPU can up clocks in milliseconds.
In the windows installation. You can also write explorer.exe in the cmd. File explorer will start and you can install LAN drivers with a usb stick or if you got them on a secondary drive. So you dont have to override the internet setup if you dont want to.
I always rename my C drive to OS. If you don't rename your C drive, then it won't show up at the windows setup screen ( @8:04 ).
So when I see the drive named OS, then I know that is the drive #, that I need to work with.
Good job. Good advices.
very nice great tips thank you
I always create two partitions on the first drive. 128Gb for Windows and another with the rest for programs and games. In case you have to reinstall windows you don't need to reinstall everything
Hey guys, what is the best cooling setup for dual tower coolers? 1) Fan, tower, fan, tower 2) tower, fan, tower, fan 3)fan, tower, fan, tower, fan or 4) tower, fan, tower?
You forgot to check ReBAR... I have a bootable stress test stick. I tweak/enable/overclock/undervolt everything in the BIOS, test linpack and memtest64 for half an hour and then proceed with windows installation and further long time tests. If there is something noticeably wrong with the hardware, and it cannot perform as wanted, there is no point installing the OS to find out. Also, you wait more for installation and updates if you disable the OC features.
I have one of those cheap chunky rgb GPU braces, its wide enough to cover the gpu power port, and deep enough that the cable can run through with only a small loop above it to relieve strain. The RGB is not a must but I do like the screen mirror lighting, so it does add a bit more of that when I linked it to my corsair icue bloatware. Its the DeepCool GH-01 ADD RGB
good tips just about to build my new pc this year👍
Excellent video ! This is basically how I do it also. Thanks for sharing ♥
I like to disable the Asus Armory Crate auto download in the Bios. It's a terrible piece of software and I can download device drivers myself.
What's bad about it, seems like an easy way to download all the drivers automatically
@@nozersOnce you install it, it hogs resources and slows down the system for no good reason and it's hard to get rid of without leaving half of it still on the system. It also causes an untold number of conflicts with other software you might want to use, including but not limited to software for peripherals like your mouse and keyboard or software for other mainboard related features. Or your GPU... The list goes on. Asus continues to put all sorts all sorts of bloat- and adware in there. If you want to dig deeper into this just search for it and you will find lots of people online that describe their issues with Armory Crate.
He's right. Sure it might be handy to gather some driver updates but it's straight bloatware, runs in the background sucking up resources all the time, you uninstall it and random files linger, slow functioning and poor GUI, it's pretty awful bit of software
@@itsLastHourlol it’s typical app you check once in while to update drivers easy it’s not bloat ware bloat ware something like windows store install like stupid card games or stupid random apps Facebook
I've found armoury crate to be a necessary evil. I have a build with a 14700k (drag me, I know): neither Intel nor Asus listed the very basic drivers I needed (thunderbolt, smbus, io, tpu, and something else) so armoury crate was the only way I got them. I was wracking my brain and scouring the web for like 2 days on the brink of insanity.
I finally installed armoury crate, and it quickly populated all the drivers and updates and did them, including the BIOS update. And then ofc I uninstalled that shit ASAP using the Asus uninstall tool.
Since then I've installed it once more after a recent chipset and BIOS update.
Armoury crate is basically a necessity, just gotta keep the uninstall tool on hand.
Such a good guide, thank you!
You do a great job, man!
I'd love a video on how to make sure your pc is constantly up to date! I bought mine through a company who custom built it for me, but they installed most of the things without really telling me how or what they installed.. So I had to kind of figure it out all on my own. I run an msi mobo and usually just use msi center to check for updates, as well as the window installs but that is it. I've always wondered if I need to go keep up to date with new drivers from intel and what not separately.
I needed this so much, thank you!
What i liked about this video is the CMD bypass, it's not showed to other videos i watched
During all this Setup Where is your Monitor Plugged in? Into the Onboard Motherboard HDMI or your Graphics Card Display port?
You can disable the prompt to download armory crate in the bios settings
Correct but that means getting INTO the BIOS first. ;)
Gracias por toda su experiencia!
I’ve followed this video perfectly but I still can’t figure out why I’m getting .DLL error for d5 render and direct x error for call of duty. Please help 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Keeping side panels off is also good juju, there's basically almost always going to be a problem when you first boot with the case closed
Good idea!
You guys should take a look at the new Fiio kb3 keyboard that includes a DAC in it, seems right up your alley
Hey! What setup / PC specs you have here?! Looking so good!! I'm starting the process of buying new computer and looking for mini / ATX choices. :)
O&O ShutUP 10 and Appbuster for Windows setup step #1 😉
I just built my pc but I have two ssd drives and only the main one appears, when I look for the other one in devices and try to populate it, it simply doesn’t let me. I try to initialize it and create a partition and nothing is there. Any suggestions?
Nice watch. What brand is it
Another reason to disconnect all other drives during Windows install is that if any of the other drives have/had Windows on them and the boot partition remains on them Windows can end up using the wrong drive to boot the install. I saw this happen where Windows was on a HDD, and a new install on a SSD. It decided to use the boot partition on the HDD to load Windows on the SSD.
I am not sure if that was in video (I didn't remember), but first thing I always disable is the multiple ctrl or shift keypresses -- like if I push shift key 5 times, it opens some kind of dialogue box, I disable everything 😀
10:30 I've installed wifi cards that work without drivers for the purpose of installing windows over a wifi connection. So yeah, bit of misinformation there as it is possible to do so
Very, very, very good video! Thanks!!