My safety on my 1895 chilean mauser would cycle through all the positions, but very rough. And having plans to use it as a deer rifle I didn't want a loud and crude safety to possibly cost me a shot. I did as you showed in the video, and using a fine dremel polishing bit I also slightly rounded the ridges between each position as well, being careful not to remove too much. Now it cycles through all of them smooth and quietly. You could also benefit by polishing the front surface of the cocking piece that contacts the face of the safety lever. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing this tip! I read about how you got started collecting. Funny thing sorta the same thing happened to me. Back in the early 80's I went to Rose's department store and they had an old military rifle that was marked down from 114.99 to 29.99. Well I said what the Heck, it would make a nice wall hanger anyhow. So I bought it. They brought me one out in a box, I opened it up unwrapped it and yes the smell of cosmolin did it. Long story short, took it home disassembled it. It was an Argentina 1909 mauser with the crest still on it! Beautiful gun perfect bore, bolt shined up like chrome and still to this day 12 military rifles later is still my favorite! Oh and all matching numbers! Well will bore you no more, no pun intended. I did subscribe to you channel, lots of good information to be had. Take care!
This is the best video I´ve seen regarding to this problem. I have the same problem on my surplus Yugo Mauser 24/47. I really need a detailed before/after comparison in order to avoid excesive grinding/polishing. The shine on the operating cocking piece on the last part of your video kind of difficults such comparison. Hope someday I can post a video of my own solving the problem. Thank you very much!
Sorry I couldn't give you a better explanation. The video was made after I had already altered the surface. For your own rifle, you will be able to use a light to look into where the cocking piece ends and where the safety should engage it. You may be able to mark on the very tip of the safety ramp how much metal needs to be removed. Then, you file only on the very tip. Check your progress frequently, and continue until your safety can get behind the cocking piece. Then, simply smooth the ramp, so that it is one continuous surface. That will do it.
I just found out that you had adressed the very same problem 4 weeks ago.....thanks again. My Mauser was made in 1908, but the system seems to be the same...
Ahh, yes. It did sound familiar. It could also be the issue with your parts, especially if the parts have at some point been exchanged. The original (serial number matching) parts should be fitted to each other properly. If one is replaced, the correct re-fitting may not have had happened.
MosinVirus, thanks for the suggestion. I was able to disassemble the bolt but I discovered that the cocking piece (ie. firing pin nut according to the owner's manual) doesn't have the notches on the outside. Not having the notches prevents the safety from rotating/turning. At the very least, it's stuck on the fire position when the bolt is reassembled. Thanks!
Hello as far as I remember the cocking piece or FP nut shouldn't have notches on it. The safety has the engagement ramp and recesses for safe and full safe positions.
Wow, that rifle is in like-new condition! Amazing! Mine was sitting in Ethiopia for almost 80 years, so it's a bit worse for wear. Wish it wasn't caked in ancient Cosmoline, rusted in some places, or that it stinks to high hell. Don't know if my rifle is ever going to be in such a condition as yours is.
MosinVirus, I bought a Spanish 1916 from Classic Firearms, that had it's barrel replaced with a .308 caliber barrel. When I got it, I tore it apart, and refinished what was a truly awful looking piece of wood. I got it looking pretty nice, mounted a scope on it, just a cheap Tasco, 1.75- 5 X 30mm. The gun had come with no sights at all, but drilled and tapped for a picatinny rail. I got it all ready to go, took it out, and loaded one round, and pulled the trigger. Click, nothing. Looking closer, the firing pin was too short, like it had been the wrong one for the new caliber. I ordered another one from Sarco, which was actually a fantastic company to deal with, and installed it, with more than just a tiny bit of difficulty. Even after watching a number of youtube videos, it still took me quite some time to figure it out. Now, the firing pin is correct, it fires when I pull the trigger, and goes click. But I have this damn problem with the safety that you just demonstrated how to fix,and what to be careful of when doing it. To say that I am grateful would be an understatement. This was meant to be my white tail deer rifle last year, but now, it looks like I will at least be able to use it for my Michigan hunt this year. I have lived here all of my 60 years, and have used only a few different guns, most often a shotgun, with both slugs and 00 Buckshot. Plus, I have used a 30-40 Krag to take a doe one year. I have carried a Remington 721 of my dad's in 30-06, and a Winchester in 30-30, but never killed a deer with those guns. The shotgun, I have had a fair amount of success, and I have never had a deer shot with either forstner slugs or 00Buckshot go far at all. In fact, most of them have dropped on the spot. I use the shotgun when hunting in the thick woods, and also because I am not a great shot with a rifle. I plan to do a good deal of practice with my Mauser in the coming weeks, in order to insure a humane kill, and if I am not able to become confident enough, then it will be a shotgun one more year, and try the rifle next year. Oh, and that 30-40 Krag round was devastating on that doe. I hit her in the perfect place, quartering towards me, and right behind the front shoulder, back through the chest cavity, taking out the lungs and heart,from around 75 yards. She still ran that distance, right towards me, then past me, and ran into a tree, dropping down dead.The gun was my dad's,and it now is with my youngest son, who collects military weapons. Once again, MosinVirus, my thanks for showing me the right way to both fix my safety, and to do so in such a way as to insure that it remains safe, doing the thing that it is intended to do. You are a great help, to those of us,who don't know how to do something, but are able to turn a wrench or understand directions. You have saved me from having to take my gun to a gunsmith, for such a small problem, that is fixable by myself. You have my gratitude for sharing your knowledge with the many of us that are out here, looking for just a bit of help. Well done, to a generous person.
Good video....also correct...if any filing is to be done, it's in the lower/left edge of the safety lever, to allow initial engagement with the striker/cocking piece. The mating surface of the striker/cocking piece should NEVER be filed instead. Good job.
I knew I wasn't the only one with this problem. But when you are making your alterations, go slow and try out your progress frequently. Don't want to overdo it.
Safety stuck in full safe position? As in, you can't open the bolt? It depends on how the safety is stuck. If it simply cannot push the cocking piece back, the cocking piece should be pulled back manually until the safety can rotate.
I have a Yugoslavian captured kar98 however the safety will not engage an I can’t get it off when I try to take the bolt apart any other tips on how to fix this problem?
Dies it feel like the safety lever is frozen in place or like it can move but simply cannot engage the cocking piece? Is the bolt cocked when you try to engage the safety?
@@MosinVirus yes the lever was able to wiggle but did feel stuck however I figured it out after watching ur video and another video I just simply engaged the cocking piece by pulling it with the lip of a 8mm round and sliding the safety upward back to the vertical position :) but I thank you for taking the time to reply.
Understood. Make sure the bolt shroud is screwed on all the way before making any modifications. Just FYI. is some cases the shroud is not turned onto the bolt all the way and that causes this issue.
So on my Yugo M48, once the rifle is decocked in the fire/fired position, the safety will no longer move and the bolt is locked until i manually recock the rifle. Would this fix the problem?
A Mauser bolt has to be cocked for safety to work. The cocking piece needs to be sitting on a sear (pulled back) so the safety lever can get in front of the cocking piece and push it further to the rear off the sear.
@@MosinVirus So the sear is the problem if I cannot move the bolt once the rifle is decocked/dry fired? Once I manually pull the cocking piece back with a pair of pliers the bolt will move again, but if I were to fire, the bolt would not be able to move (to load the next round) without me pulling back the cocking piece again.
@@MosinVirus Yes but im not totally sure what to look for in an issue. Nothing is *obviously* broken or changed. The firing pin spring is rusty buts thats all i could see.
Well let's start at the beginning. Did everything work before the bolt was taken apart? Is the back of the firing pin seen on the same plane wirh the back of the cocking piece?
my safety moves but on the 3rd position it still allows the bolt to move and sometimes when taking of the safety it will release the firing pin shooting the gun
Hello,my neighbor is selling a 98k he has had for a while the rifle is a 1939 #243 all matching with cupped stock and non hood....about 90 % is it worth $500.00?
MosinVirus bore is good,90% condition overall no pitting or rust,very smooth action.....same four digits serial number on all parts.....does the metal but stock have a visible serial number.....did not see one on it......I am not in the market for one,but it's a beautiful rifle.....
I experienced this problem as well but I found the head of my bolt had to thread on further one more rotation, once I rotated it one more rotation it corrected the problem, it would be disappointing if this was your problem as well and it caused you to modify a perfectly good part because the bolt head was not fully threaded on.
Mosin, My M48 Mauser using the Romanian 8mm round color greying case , first it's hard to load the 5clip in, and I had load it one-by-one to make five rounds, My second problem is that the bolt to reload the bold closed its very hard and stiff! I cleaned the barrel and the bolt to remove the cosmoline oil, Is there anything I can do with the bolt action to close better?
It might be a worn sear allowing the cocking piece to go to far forward, not allowing the cam on the safety to get under the front edge of the cocking piece.
Question, I my safety will move from fire to half safe, but not fully locked bolt. It's a good collector piece w matching serials, and I don't want to mess Edith the value, but want a fully working rifle. Is there some trick I'm missing on this 80 yr old Mauser?
Patrick Madden Sure thing. I assume if you say all serials match, that the safety lever also matches the bolt body, etc. two things to check: 1) the notches on the head of the safety lever that push off the cocking piece and represent safety positions. It could simply be that it is hard to overcome one of those position dividers (could be normal). And 2) If you look at 2:45 or so of the video, you can see the pin of the safety lever. the tip of the pin has two relief cuts. In fire position, one of the relief cuts allows the bolt to open, in Half safe position the other relief cut allows the bolt to open. In full safe position, the pin is not relieved and should engage the notch in the bolt body. Sometimes the notch in the bolt body is misaligned or peened and prevents the non-relieved section of the pin from turning into it. That non-relieved area of the safety lever pin, when it engages the notch in the bolt body is what locks the bolt from opening.I would take the bolt apart, and put only the rear housing with safety lever onto the bolt body. Align them and see if the safety lever can engage that corresponding notch in the bolt body.
You could look into getting a different sear or cooking piece of the bolt. But first absolutely make sure that your bolt is assembled correctly. Some viewers commented that if the shroud is not screwed on completely the issue will persist and it does make sense.
MosinVirus the bolt is screw on properly i made sure of it. When i remove the bolt and release the safety switch then put the bolt back on it works fine... but when i cock the bolt and pull the trigger the safety becomes stuck again.. any ideas on whats going on?
The safety can only be engaged when the bolt is cocked. It needs the cooking piece of the bolt to be held back by the sear, otherwise the safety cannot get in front of the cooking piece and push it further back. Maybe I am misunderstanding what is happening.
MosinVirus bingo your right, gun needs to be cooked in order to engage the safety, slight misunderstanding with the gun operation.. sorry new gun owner. Thanks mosin your the man!
@@MosinVirus I just realized that the Mauser 98 style action and my 1943 Spanish are "cock on open" unlike the older 1893 and 1916's that are cock on close like the Lee Enfield, however it does (the 98 style) still seem to rely on the sear to fully retract the cocking piece.
You need to take the bolt out of the gun, and manually pull the cocking piece back to clear the safety lever. If your safety is stuck in a full safe position and you can't remove the bolt you would have to do the same (pulling the cocking piece) manually to the rear to allow the safety to turn.
where can I purchase a safety for a .270 Husqvarna (mauser action) Mine was a little flimsy and broke. It still works, but I was just about to sell this rifle.
Oh... that makes sense as to why it was so dang hard to move. Unfortunately... my lever broke off, in the fire position... so now I've got another problem.
@@MosinVirus Yeah... I think I'm gonna need a vice or a second pair of hands. Once I get to the disssassembly I'll be keeping this video in mind to ensure I don't snap off the replacement.
@@jackr2287 a vice or vice grip will do it. You can put something on the jaws to not mar up the cocking piece... once you see the slot exposed on the side of the cocking piece you can put a dime in there to prevent it from retracting too far.
Found a K98 at a gun store with the safety being flipped and only being two position, it fires when it's switched to the right and is safe when flipped up. Weird
@@MosinVirus well the receiver is tapped and drilled, and the bolt is missing some serial numbers, and it doesn’t have the cleaning rod either so, not worth what the seller is asking
MosinVirus, on your video, there are notches (ie. slots or rectangular cuts) which the safety switch slides into when it is rotated from Fire to Safe to Full Safe. Mine doesn't have these same slots/cuts. Not certain why that's the case. The bolt serial number is different than the rifle serial number. That may be a reason.
Thank you for this videao, it helped me to solve the problem. Now I'm going to find out how to get the lever to the third position (fully locked), which is also stuck...
That can be blocked by the bolt body as well. If you take the bolt apart, you will see how the safety lever pin (that has two flats in it for Fire and 1st Safe positions) has a rounded section that needs to engage into a corresponding cutout in the bolt body. Sometimes that area on the bolt body is peened or damaged.
I have a VZ-24 that the safety wont go into the 3rd position( bolt lock) but works in the second position, have you run into that issue and what would be the recommended fix?
first you need to identify the issue. I would check the engagement surface on the pin of the safety lever. and the corresponding area on the bolt body.
If i get a chance to i will pull it a part later today or tomorrow, the bolt body was replaced due to the previous owner drilling out the firing pin hole and filing down the pin, I kept the original body and will compare the two
So I did as you recommended and took my bolt apart, it looks like the spot where the safety rides on the bolt is cut to shallow for it to lock the bolt in place in the action. However it still disengages the trigger and renders it "safe". I may leave it the way it is due to lacking tools to deepen the cut in the bolt at the moment.
no bolt was a nos k98, previous owner filed the firing pin and drilled out the firing pin hole, was not matching when I got it but did work before it was replaced, rifle has new barrel, bolt body and firing pin
This issue is not always the safety itself. It is the sear. My sear on my Mauser was worn down to the point that it was not pulling the cocking piece back far enough to allow the safety to rotate and was an easy fix
Tags 397 I am not sure why your bolt can't open. probably has nothing to do with the safety. if you can take a video of your rifle and bolt and you trying to open it I may be able to see what could be preventing the bolt from opening.
jeremy67A sorry to see you are having issues with your safety. To improve you may want to look for where the wear is and possibly get a new safety lever or cocking piece.
You can use a flat file. All you want to do is file a slant (ramp) so that the thinnest portion of it can get behind the cocking piece. Then, as you turn the safety, the ramp will push the cocking piece back off the sear.
I can no longer remove my K98 bolt with the safety engaged, after I installed a Timney Trigger. The safety does work both vertical & locked but can't even pull the bolt open as if it was locked.
+Lilbailnick You should not be able to raise the bolt handle when in full safe position. Are you saying that the bolt cannot open in the vertical position?
+Lilbailnick that is just not right. I am not familiar with Timney, but I have seen those triggers and they shouldn't block the bolt from moving back. as far as the trigger goes, it shouldn't do anything to the bolt being able to move back. I would contact Timney. does the gun work normally when safety is disengaged (full left position)? when in up position the only thing that happens is that the cocking piece is moved back and away from the sear.
@@MosinVirus There's no markings on yours. Those had to be made after the war. And the blueing looks, too blue. Not trying too start a fight. But insight. Love the action. 🤌
We'll talk tomorrow. I gotta get up early in the morning. I'd like some more history. Years. Where's the origin. There were a few countries making these. And what years? Night
I have this problem on a Brand New M24/47Yogp Mauser I bought years ago! Today I cleaned off all the packing grease to finally fire it but found it wouldn't go to full safe. Now I know why!
By left you mean the fire position? And in that position you cannot turn the bolt handle up? So you have a completely seized bolt and cannot use the gun?
Has this rifle ever worked? I have never seen a bolt that couldn't be opened unless it was jammed up by something else. Is the extractor still on it and is the extractor retaining ring on the bold body? Is the rear trigger guard screw blocking the bolt's cocking piece? Try pulling the bolt stop out like you would to take the bolt out of the receiver and see if you can open the bolt. Then take out the trigger guard and see if you can open the bolt.
@@MosinVirus MAKE SURE IT IS NOT LOADED!!! take it all apart clean it it can be a simple fix or judt replace the lever or bad part nurmrich arms.com very cheap
im having the same issues... after sanding and polishing the safety it still does the same,,, not sure if im doing it right ,,, but i noticed you said to chop the safety in half and and break the bolt correct? lol jk im going to try this in a few hours... see what i get,,,, i remember last time you helped me out with my mosin on the loose trigger .sear bent job,,,thank you ,,,
Hello again. You should cocktail the bolt, and try to see into the space between the safety and cocking piece. Use a light to see better. Try to engage the safety and see how much more you need to take off the ramp of the safety to ensure it gets behind the edge of the cocking piece. When it engages just work on the ramp surface to make it smooth. All rebuilt rifles can have this issue since sear, cocking piece, and safeties are not always playing together nicely.
Does it fire on both safety positions? Check the engagement surfaces on both the safety and the cocking piece. If they are rounded, or undersized, they may slip. Maybe someone altered the safety. If the safety is in upward position and the gun can fire, and you notice the safety returns to fire position, chances are someone filed the ramp too much and took the engagement ledge off. You can also check this if the safety returns back to fire position easily and without a felt "step" when you turn it back.
I'm pretty sure I have the same problem. My question though is how were you able to take the safety switch off the bolt in order to file it down. Don't you have to be able to take the whole bolt out to get access to all the components of it?
the better way is to take bolt apart, remove a little material, put it back together and see how you did. or you can flip the safety over to full safe which will bring the ramp to the top as you can see in the video and file it that way, but then shavings will get everywhere.
MosinVirus My safety switch won't move at all. It's strange because the ramp on it doesn't even seem that bad from what I could see. I'm probably going to take it to a gunsmith because there's no way I can think of to just pull it off without breaking anything.
+ImReadyD151 taking it to a gunsmith is definitely a fine option. however you can probably do it yourself. in order to take the bolt apart you can see videos (many of them) that describe what to do when you took the bolt out without engaging the safety first. it is exactly what you will need to do if your safety cannot be engaged now. basically the cocking piece is not sitting gar enough back in your rifle when it is held by the sear and the safety ramp can't get behind it. when the bolt is out of the rifle, you will be able to grab the cocking piece with something (watch those videos) and pull further back. your safety will then be able to rotate behind it and you will be able to take the bolt apart. Or if you choose to do so reinsert the bolt back in with the safety rotated to the up position (bolt will still work but sear is disconnected from cocking piece, so the trigger is dead), cock the bolt, turn the safety lever to full safe (all the way to the right) mark the area of the safety engagement area between the ramp and front of safety with a marker or dykem layout dye, turn the safety back over to the left. the cocking piece will move forward slightly and rest on the sear. now try to engage the safety so that the marked area hits the cocking piece a few times. then take the bolt out, manually move the cocking piece back to allow the safety to get behind it and rotate up, and move it over to the right most position. examine the area you marked and see if you can see where it was hitting the cocking piece. that will give you an idea of how much it is off by and how to modify the ramp.
MosinVirus I looked more into it.I was able to pull the cocking piece back with the help of some videos like you said, but just to be safe I took it to a local gunsmith to look at it and make the proper adjustments. I'm relatively new to guns so I didn't want to make a mistake. Thanks for the help though
Medmann48 These rifles were properly put together originally. then they were refurbished through service and if serial numbers no longer match, they may not have been properly fitted. It is often the case with war time rifles.
Yes, that is needed, especially when you want to flip the safety into disassembly position out of the receiver, or when the cocking piece or sear is too worn, or when the safety lever is not properly fitted. Many people grab onto the cocking piece lug with vise and then pull the bolt body so the safety can be engaged. Basically, many ways to skin a cat. 😊
You didn't have to do any thing with the rifle and the safety lever. This is a war rifle that needs a man to handle it not a gentle person. It is meant to be always on firing position. You want the rifle idle or locked, just use the rimmed cartridge or a flat screwdriver to grab the notch in the end of the firing pin and pull it back while turning the safety lever to middle or lock position. I Hope this is helpful.
The video and this comment are both helpful. I have three Mausers, all with the same problem. Wondering how such highly regarded rifles keep turning up with defective safeties. Springfields, Enfields, M1917s all have dandy safeties. I saw that the ramp could be improved, but why wasn't it done at the factory? So, figured it must be something else that I'm not seeing. I think i'll dress up the ramp some and like another guy's suggestion of putting a little radius on the front of the cocking piece. Thanks.
@chuckfischer7202 there are usually these reasons: a) capture rifle with parts thrown together, b) worn cocking piece/sear, and c) the bolt hasn't been fully threaded on placing the safety too far back.
MosinVirus, I have the same issue with my Yugo M48, would it be acceptable to file the safety ramp in the same manner and not affect the material surface temper? I'm thinking that it might cause the newly profiled ramp to gall with use making it worse, any thoughts? Did you temper your safety after filing the new ramp profile?
@@MosinVirus hey Mausers can have stickey safeties , but no gun has as crude of a safety as a mosin-nagant ... still all great rifles though , just have to do a little TLC ...
@@davidfriend1919 Yes, in the cases where the gun is no longer numbers matching the parts could have come from anywhere and may not be properly fitted.
@@davidfriend1919 The mauser safety is fitted to the action. If the searing surfaces are worn for example, the cociing piece is not far enough back and can influence the safety engagement. The Mosin safety is not affected by the action as much. A bear to pull when done slowly, and "fun" to release.
Retired AF CE yes, this stock was really dirty. I tried to get it clean without sanding it at all and then applied BLO for a month. it turned out just how it looks in the video.
(sorry for my bad english) i got really bad problem with my replica kar 98 k. when i pull bolt towards me, safety just turns to left site 90° and i need to turn it back right side before pulling bolt back to loaded position.... if you dont know what im talking about i can just send you video when i will show you whats the problem. (worst english :( )
I remember my Grand Father had this mouser rifle and its safety always stuck like really really bad. So bad that he used to take out the bolt assembly and force it with sone steady hook or something to release the safety. Later I learned it wasn't the original mouser but a local made copy for 7mm bore rather its original 7.62. For that single reason I never liked it.
@ I compared with two other K98s and found that the edge of the firing pin nut was not chamfered, which made it difficult for the safety pick to push the firing pin nut out. I polished the edge of the firing pin nut and the problem was solved. I couldn't believe that the numbers on the firing pin nut, safety pick and other parts matched, and this K98 was produced by Mauser Oberndorf in 1941 with waffenamt stamped.
My safety on my 1895 chilean mauser would cycle through all the positions, but very rough. And having plans to use it as a deer rifle I didn't want a loud and crude safety to possibly cost me a shot.
I did as you showed in the video, and using a fine dremel polishing bit I also slightly rounded the ridges between each position as well, being careful not to remove too much. Now it cycles through all of them smooth and quietly. You could also benefit by polishing the front surface of the cocking piece that contacts the face of the safety lever.
Thanks for the video.
It is my pleasure. I am glad the video helps.
Thanks for sharing this tip! I read about how you got started collecting. Funny thing sorta the same thing happened to me. Back in the early 80's I went to Rose's department store and they had an old military rifle that was marked down from 114.99 to 29.99. Well I said what the Heck, it would make a nice wall hanger anyhow. So I bought it. They brought me one out in a box, I opened it up unwrapped it and yes the smell of cosmolin did it. Long story short, took it home disassembled it. It was an Argentina 1909 mauser with the crest still on it! Beautiful gun perfect bore, bolt shined up like chrome and still to this day 12 military rifles later is still my favorite! Oh and all matching numbers! Well will bore you no more, no pun intended. I did subscribe to you channel, lots of good information to be had. Take care!
Thank you. I too can't believe the prices now days. I bought my first 91/30 for 89.99. Now that same rifle would be 300 or so.
Few months back I bought a 1945 spanish mauser k98. Beautiful weapon the mausers. Thanks for the video. Its very helpful.
csgptg my pleasure. Enjoy your Mauser. they are indeed beautiful.
MosinVirus Thank you, I will.
I've never had this problem with any of my Mausers, but this was a great video - - thanks for posting it!
yeah, it is pretty common with rebuilds from what I understand.
This is the best video I´ve seen regarding to this problem. I have the same problem on my surplus Yugo Mauser 24/47. I really need a detailed before/after comparison in order to avoid excesive grinding/polishing. The shine on the operating cocking piece on the last part of your video kind of difficults such comparison. Hope someday I can post a video of my own solving the problem. Thank you very much!
Sorry I couldn't give you a better explanation. The video was made after I had already altered the surface. For your own rifle, you will be able to use a light to look into where the cocking piece ends and where the safety should engage it. You may be able to mark on the very tip of the safety ramp how much metal needs to be removed. Then, you file only on the very tip. Check your progress frequently, and continue until your safety can get behind the cocking piece. Then, simply smooth the ramp, so that it is one continuous surface. That will do it.
I would like to thank MosinVirus your video helped me fix my brother's Mauser safety his Turkish mauser works 100% now
My pleasure
I just found out that you had adressed the very same problem 4 weeks ago.....thanks again. My Mauser was made in 1908, but the system seems to be the same...
Ahh, yes. It did sound familiar. It could also be the issue with your parts, especially if the parts have at some point been exchanged. The original (serial number matching) parts should be fitted to each other properly. If one is replaced, the correct re-fitting may not have had happened.
Thanks for sharing the potential problem. I haven't experienced it and I've had numerous K98 rifles.
It is my pleasure. The problem can really only occur on mismatched s/n rifles where parts have been thrown together.
Fixed my M48, Thanks for making this video
my pleasure.
Thanks very much for this! Just got the safety on my new Chilean 1912 working smoothly following your example.
Glad I could help
Acquired a M1916 Spanish Mauser 7x57 a few days ago and noticed the safety was filed. Now I know why. Thanks!!
You are welcome
MosinVirus, thanks for the suggestion. I was able to disassemble the bolt but I discovered that the cocking piece (ie. firing pin nut according to the owner's manual) doesn't have the notches on the outside. Not having the notches prevents the safety from rotating/turning. At the very least, it's stuck on the fire position when the bolt is reassembled. Thanks!
Hello as far as I remember the cocking piece or FP nut shouldn't have notches on it. The safety has the engagement ramp and recesses for safe and full safe positions.
Wow, that rifle is in like-new condition! Amazing! Mine was sitting in Ethiopia for almost 80 years, so it's a bit worse for wear. Wish it wasn't caked in ancient Cosmoline, rusted in some places, or that it stinks to high hell. Don't know if my rifle is ever going to be in such a condition as yours is.
The only thing to do is start cleaning it up and find out. ;)
TLC and lots of it. Weekends of cleaning and brushing. The build of these rifles is incredibly strict, you can bring them back. atb.
MosinVirus, I bought a Spanish 1916 from Classic Firearms, that had it's barrel replaced with a .308 caliber barrel. When I got it, I tore it apart, and refinished what was a truly awful looking piece of wood. I got it looking pretty nice, mounted a scope on it, just a cheap Tasco, 1.75- 5 X 30mm. The gun had come with no sights at all, but drilled and tapped for a picatinny rail. I got it all ready to go, took it out, and loaded one round, and pulled the trigger. Click, nothing. Looking closer, the firing pin was too short, like it had been the wrong one for the new caliber. I ordered another one from Sarco, which was actually a fantastic company to deal with, and installed it, with more than just a tiny bit of difficulty. Even after watching a number of youtube videos, it still took me quite some time to figure it out. Now, the firing pin is correct, it fires when I pull the trigger, and goes click. But I have this damn problem with the safety that you just demonstrated how to fix,and what to be careful of when doing it. To say that I am grateful would be an understatement. This was meant to be my white tail deer rifle last year, but now, it looks like I will at least be able to use it for my Michigan hunt this year. I have lived here all of my 60 years, and have used only a few different guns, most often a shotgun, with both slugs and 00 Buckshot. Plus, I have used a 30-40 Krag to take a doe one year. I have carried a Remington 721 of my dad's in 30-06, and a Winchester in 30-30, but never killed a deer with those guns. The shotgun, I have had a fair amount of success, and I have never had a deer shot with either forstner slugs or 00Buckshot go far at all. In fact, most of them have dropped on the spot. I use the shotgun when hunting in the thick woods, and also because I am not a great shot with a rifle. I plan to do a good deal of practice with my Mauser in the coming weeks, in order to insure a humane kill, and if I am not able to become confident enough, then it will be a shotgun one more year, and try the rifle next year.
Oh, and that 30-40 Krag round was devastating on that doe. I hit her in the perfect place, quartering towards me, and right behind the front shoulder, back through the chest cavity, taking out the lungs and heart,from around 75 yards. She still ran that distance, right towards me, then past me, and ran into a tree, dropping down dead.The gun was my dad's,and it now is with my youngest son, who collects military weapons.
Once again, MosinVirus, my thanks for showing me the right way to both fix my safety, and to do so in such a way as to insure that it remains safe, doing the thing that it is intended to do. You are a great help, to those of us,who don't know how to do something, but are able to turn a wrench or understand directions. You have saved me from having to take my gun to a gunsmith, for such a small problem, that is fixable by myself. You have my gratitude for sharing your knowledge with the many of us that are out here, looking for just a bit of help. Well done, to a generous person.
Wow, that would have been a great project to see on video. I am glad I could help with this video.
Thank you so much for your instructions! I fixed my Yugo M48 mauser.
It is my pleasure. I am glad the video helped.
Good video.Brings back some good memories. Years ago my Dad and I made custom Swiss Mauser rifles.
That had to be an awesome thing to do.
Good video....also correct...if any filing is to be done, it's in the lower/left edge of the safety lever, to allow initial engagement with the striker/cocking piece. The mating surface of the striker/cocking piece should NEVER be filed instead. Good job.
Thank you.
I have this same issue on my Brazilian Mauser. Thanks for the tutorial.
I knew I wasn't the only one with this problem. But when you are making your alterations, go slow and try out your progress frequently. Don't want to overdo it.
thank you for this . fixed my safety issue with my m48 .
Glad I could help.
How do you take out the bolt and safety with a stuck safety
Safety stuck in full safe position? As in, you can't open the bolt? It depends on how the safety is stuck. If it simply cannot push the cocking piece back, the cocking piece should be pulled back manually until the safety can rotate.
I have an all matching K98 made by Mauser Oberndorf 1941, its safety has the same problem. Thanks for sharing.
@@akrounds if it all numbers matching the sear may be worn down or the shroud may not be screwed on completely. I would check that first.
I have a Yugoslavian captured kar98 however the safety will not engage an I can’t get it off when I try to take the bolt apart any other tips on how to fix this problem?
Dies it feel like the safety lever is frozen in place or like it can move but simply cannot engage the cocking piece? Is the bolt cocked when you try to engage the safety?
@@MosinVirus yes the lever was able to wiggle but did feel stuck however I figured it out after watching ur video and another video I just simply engaged the cocking piece by pulling it with the lip of a 8mm round and sliding the safety upward back to the vertical position :) but I thank you for taking the time to reply.
Understood. Make sure the bolt shroud is screwed on all the way before making any modifications. Just FYI. is some cases the shroud is not turned onto the bolt all the way and that causes this issue.
Hi, I own one of them, but I have a heavy bolt action issue when opening, do you know what the reason is?
Probably camming surfaces. If it is only difficult to open after firing a shot then it is a chamber issue.
So on my Yugo M48, once the rifle is decocked in the fire/fired position, the safety will no longer move and the bolt is locked until i manually recock the rifle. Would this fix the problem?
A Mauser bolt has to be cocked for safety to work. The cocking piece needs to be sitting on a sear (pulled back) so the safety lever can get in front of the cocking piece and push it further to the rear off the sear.
@@MosinVirus So the sear is the problem if I cannot move the bolt once the rifle is decocked/dry fired? Once I manually pull the cocking piece back with a pair of pliers the bolt will move again, but if I were to fire, the bolt would not be able to move (to load the next round) without me pulling back the cocking piece again.
@@huntermurphy2148 Oh I see. Sorry I misread the original comment. I don't think that would be caused by the safety. Have you taken the bolt apart?
@@MosinVirus Yes but im not totally sure what to look for in an issue. Nothing is *obviously* broken or changed. The firing pin spring is rusty buts thats all i could see.
Well let's start at the beginning. Did everything work before the bolt was taken apart? Is the back of the firing pin seen on the same plane wirh the back of the cocking piece?
my safety moves but on the 3rd position it still allows the bolt to move and sometimes when taking of the safety it will release the firing pin shooting the gun
So, it is basically a decoration lever on yours? ;)
Hello,my neighbor is selling a 98k he has had for a while the rifle is a 1939 #243 all matching with cupped stock and non hood....about 90 % is it worth $500.00?
Might be. What is the condition of the bore? Also 90%? If so I would take it.
MosinVirus bore is good,90% condition overall no pitting or rust,very smooth action.....same four digits serial number on all parts.....does the metal but stock have a visible serial number.....did not see one on it......I am not in the market for one,but it's a beautiful rifle.....
I experienced this problem as well but I found the head of my bolt had to thread on further one more rotation, once I rotated it one more rotation it corrected the problem, it would be disappointing if this was your problem as well and it caused you to modify a perfectly good part because the bolt head was not fully threaded on.
I am sure it wasn't the case with mine, but makes sense.
Mosin,
My M48 Mauser using the Romanian 8mm round color greying case , first it's hard to load the 5clip in, and I had load it one-by-one to make five rounds, My second problem is that the bolt to reload the bold closed its very hard and stiff! I cleaned the barrel and the bolt to remove the cosmoline oil, Is there anything I can do with the bolt action to close better?
Check the condition of the extractor claw. Sometimes the burrs or the angle of the extractor claw makes it hard to go over the case.
+MosinVirus ok thank you!
So did the manufacture put a faulty part in that gun, or did someone replace the part and didnt finish the proper fitment of it ?
Russian captured rifles were often put together from a number of different rifles so parts can be not perfectly "married" to each other.
It might be a worn sear allowing the cocking piece to go to far forward, not allowing the cam on the safety to get under the front edge of the cocking piece.
That is one of the possible reasons, just like a not fully screwed on bolt shroud, but not in this case.
My M48 doesn't lock in the third position, I can't find anyone else who has had this issue, do you know what could be causing this?
As in, it doesn't lock the bolt closed?
@@MosinVirus yes
@@LiteralCrimeRave as far as I remember the safety lever pin should prevent the bolt from opening with its foot. Maybe it broke/sheered off?
@@MosinVirus Thank you.
Question, I my safety will move from fire to half safe, but not fully locked bolt. It's a good collector piece w matching serials, and I don't want to mess Edith the value, but want a fully working rifle. Is there some trick I'm missing on this 80 yr old Mauser?
Patrick Madden Sure thing. I assume if you say all serials match, that the safety lever also matches the bolt body, etc. two things to check: 1) the notches on the head of the safety lever that push off the cocking piece and represent safety positions. It could simply be that it is hard to overcome one of those position dividers (could be normal). And 2) If you look at 2:45 or so of the video, you can see the pin of the safety lever. the tip of the pin has two relief cuts. In fire position, one of the relief cuts allows the bolt to open, in Half safe position the other relief cut allows the bolt to open. In full safe position, the pin is not relieved and should engage the notch in the bolt body. Sometimes the notch in the bolt body is misaligned or peened and prevents the non-relieved section of the pin from turning into it. That non-relieved area of the safety lever pin, when it engages the notch in the bolt body is what locks the bolt from opening.I would take the bolt apart, and put only the rear housing with safety lever onto the bolt body. Align them and see if the safety lever can engage that corresponding notch in the bolt body.
Excellent video, clearly articulated. Thank you!
My pleasure. Thank you for commenting.
Thank you for posting this video. It was very informative, I fixed my problem.
Adlen Pyle Glad I could help.
I have the same problem on my k98 did what you said shaved it down and still have the same problem please help.
You could look into getting a different sear or cooking piece of the bolt. But first absolutely make sure that your bolt is assembled correctly. Some viewers commented that if the shroud is not screwed on completely the issue will persist and it does make sense.
MosinVirus the bolt is screw on properly i made sure of it. When i remove the bolt and release the safety switch then put the bolt back on it works fine... but when i cock the bolt and pull the trigger the safety becomes stuck again.. any ideas on whats going on?
The safety can only be engaged when the bolt is cocked. It needs the cooking piece of the bolt to be held back by the sear, otherwise the safety cannot get in front of the cooking piece and push it further back. Maybe I am misunderstanding what is happening.
MosinVirus bingo your right, gun needs to be cooked in order to engage the safety, slight misunderstanding with the gun operation.. sorry new gun owner. Thanks mosin your the man!
Glad I could help. We have all been there
any video on how to remove the safety its self?
I never made one since there are already a lot of those on RUclips. Sorry
@@MosinVirus I can't seem to find any :\
Search for Mauser bolt disassembly. For example ruclips.net/video/D2JZryunJpc/видео.html
@@MosinVirus this is very helpful, thanks
Are all of the Mauser trigger assemblies the same? my 1893 and 1916 are Identical is the M43 and K98 the same as well?
Not sure, to be honest.
@@MosinVirus I just realized that the Mauser 98 style action and my 1943 Spanish are "cock on open" unlike the older 1893 and 1916's that are cock on close like the Lee Enfield, however it does (the 98 style) still seem to rely on the sear to fully retract the cocking piece.
@@hawkuser604 makes sense.
How do you remove the safety if it’s stuck?
You need to take the bolt out of the gun, and manually pull the cocking piece back to clear the safety lever. If your safety is stuck in a full safe position and you can't remove the bolt you would have to do the same (pulling the cocking piece) manually to the rear to allow the safety to turn.
Muchas gracias amigo por su video.
Es el mismo problema q estoy teniendo.
Ahora a resolverlo
Es un placer. Me alegro de haber podido ayudar.
where can I purchase a safety for a .270 Husqvarna (mauser action) Mine was a little flimsy and broke. It still works, but I was just about to sell this rifle.
Try Gunpartscorp.com
Muy buen video, buena información, pude reparar el seguro de mi mauser. Gracias👍👍
Oh... that makes sense as to why it was so dang hard to move. Unfortunately... my lever broke off, in the fire position... so now I've got another problem.
Sounds like it. Still, should be possible to take everything apart.
@@MosinVirus Yeah... I think I'm gonna need a vice or a second pair of hands. Once I get to the disssassembly I'll be keeping this video in mind to ensure I don't snap off the replacement.
@@jackr2287 a vice or vice grip will do it. You can put something on the jaws to not mar up the cocking piece... once you see the slot exposed on the side of the cocking piece you can put a dime in there to prevent it from retracting too far.
Sehr Schade, daß über ein Urdeutsches Gewehr die Sprache in englisch ist,und noch nicht einmal deutsche Untertitel verfügbar sind.
Found a K98 at a gun store with the safety being flipped and only being two position, it fires when it's switched to the right and is safe when flipped up. Weird
I have never seen one like that. So good find.
@@MosinVirus well the receiver is tapped and drilled, and the bolt is missing some serial numbers, and it doesn’t have the cleaning rod either so, not worth what the seller is asking
thank you so much it was really helpful keep up the good work my friend and god bless you.
Glad I could help. Thank you very much
Great video. The video helped me with my "Not working" safety. Thanks
Lynn McLemore my pleasure
MosinVirus, on your video, there are notches (ie. slots or rectangular cuts) which the safety switch slides into when it is rotated from Fire to Safe to Full Safe. Mine doesn't have these same slots/cuts. Not certain why that's the case. The bolt serial number is different than the rifle serial number. That may be a reason.
Please send me pictures to Mosin.Vitus@gmail.com I would like to check it out.
My brother wants to be a gun smith, any advice for me to pass on to him?
There are online schools where he can learn basics, and then it is all about persistence and experience.
Good info for mausers
Can we use this telescope on the k98?
You can put a scope on a mouser but you have to get a mouser based ring set.
Great video, and lovely stock there, love the grain...
Thank you very much.
Thank you for this videao, it helped me to solve the problem. Now I'm going to find out how to get the lever to the third position (fully locked), which is also stuck...
That can be blocked by the bolt body as well. If you take the bolt apart, you will see how the safety lever pin (that has two flats in it for Fire and 1st Safe positions) has a rounded section that needs to engage into a corresponding cutout in the bolt body. Sometimes that area on the bolt body is peened or damaged.
MosinVirus, great video, great help!!! Thank you very much!
my pleasure.
my safety is stuck in safety on position( right) i cant unlock it can somebody help?
Try pulling the cocking piece back while someone else tries to turn the safety lever.
I have a VZ-24 that the safety wont go into the 3rd position( bolt lock) but works in the second position, have you run into that issue and what would be the recommended fix?
first you need to identify the issue. I would check the engagement surface on the pin of the safety lever. and the corresponding area on the bolt body.
If i get a chance to i will pull it a part later today or tomorrow, the bolt body was replaced due to the previous owner drilling out the firing pin hole and filing down the pin, I kept the original body and will compare the two
So I did as you recommended and took my bolt apart, it looks like the spot where the safety rides on the bolt is cut to shallow for it to lock the bolt in place in the action. However it still disengages the trigger and renders it "safe". I may leave it the way it is due to lacking tools to deepen the cut in the bolt at the moment.
do the numbers on the bolt match? or was it assembled from different parts?
no bolt was a nos k98, previous owner filed the firing pin and drilled out the firing pin hole, was not matching when I got it but did work before it was replaced, rifle has new barrel, bolt body and firing pin
Without being able to turn your safety, how were you able to disassemble your bolt?
With the bolt removed I would pull the cocking piece back manually until the safety would swing up. Then disassemble the bolt.
This issue is not always the safety itself. It is the sear. My sear on my Mauser was worn down to the point that it was not pulling the cocking piece back far enough to allow the safety to rotate and was an easy fix
Agreed. That can be an issue too.
@@MosinVirus
Need to check your headspace. Why? This can also be an indication of locking lugs getting set back. Can also happen after lapping the lugs.
Very good point.
Replacement of a worn or modified sear or triggerwerks would also fix this problem.
Possibly but not definitely. The sear and cocking piece on this one were not worn or modified.
But the my safety is not moving and I can not open the bolt how do I get it open
Tags 397 is your safety stuck in a right most position? is the cocking piece still resting on it?
MosinVirus it on the left and idk
Tags 397 if the safety is on the left, in fire position, the bolt should open without any issues.
MosinVirus doesn't tho any idea
Tags 397 I am not sure why your bolt can't open. probably has nothing to do with the safety. if you can take a video of your rifle and bolt and you trying to open it I may be able to see what could be preventing the bolt from opening.
I figured that was my problem. Weird that it wouldn't work on an all serial matching bolt. But, I had the same problem on a non serial bolt too.
Some viewers have suggested that if the rest assembly is not fully screwed onto the body that may be the issue.
@@MosinVirus Not in my case. One safety will engage with some effort, but the other needs some serious dremel work before it will ever work.
@@700NitroXpress then that is pretty strange on a matching bolt
My safety is loose and too floopy. Any suggestions?
jeremy67A sorry to see you are having issues with your safety. To improve you may want to look for where the wear is and possibly get a new safety lever or cocking piece.
Thanks! Just fixed my Yugo 24/47 safety! It didn't take much.
My pleasure
Hi MV, is this done with a small round file?
Thanks
You can use a flat file. All you want to do is file a slant (ramp) so that the thinnest portion of it can get behind the cocking piece. Then, as you turn the safety, the ramp will push the cocking piece back off the sear.
I can no longer remove my K98 bolt with the safety engaged, after I installed a Timney Trigger. The safety does work both vertical & locked but can't even pull the bolt open as if it was locked.
+Lilbailnick You should not be able to raise the bolt handle when in full safe position. Are you saying that the bolt cannot open in the vertical position?
+MosinVirus (Yes) can't open or remove in vertical Saftey/Take down
+Lilbailnick that is just not right. I am not familiar with Timney, but I have seen those triggers and they shouldn't block the bolt from moving back. as far as the trigger goes, it shouldn't do anything to the bolt being able to move back. I would contact Timney. does the gun work normally when safety is disengaged (full left position)? when in up position the only thing that happens is that the cocking piece is moved back and away from the sear.
This was a German Rifle.
So what your saying since USSR had half of Germany, after wwII. They access to make the k98?
These were captured rifles.
@@MosinVirus
There's no markings on yours.
Those had to be made after the war.
And the blueing looks, too blue.
Not trying too start a fight.
But insight. Love the action. 🤌
@@illmakeyouuncomfortable7745 oh, I see. I just didn't understand the original comment correctly.
We'll talk tomorrow. I gotta get up early in the morning.
I'd like some more history. Years. Where's the origin. There were a few countries making these.
And what years? Night
I have this problem on a Brand New M24/47Yogp Mauser I bought years ago! Today I cleaned off all the packing grease to finally fire it but found it wouldn't go to full safe. Now I know why!
Before doing anything with the safety, make sure the bolt shroud is screwed on all the way.
hey mate, how did you shave it down while it was on the gun? my safety is stuck all the way left and the trigger, nor the bolt moves.
By left you mean the fire position? And in that position you cannot turn the bolt handle up? So you have a completely seized bolt and cannot use the gun?
yes in the fire position and i can not turn the bolt handle. it barely moves but it will not move besides a 1-2mm or so.
Has this rifle ever worked? I have never seen a bolt that couldn't be opened unless it was jammed up by something else. Is the extractor still on it and is the extractor retaining ring on the bold body? Is the rear trigger guard screw blocking the bolt's cocking piece? Try pulling the bolt stop out like you would to take the bolt out of the receiver and see if you can open the bolt. Then take out the trigger guard and see if you can open the bolt.
@@MosinVirus MAKE SURE IT IS NOT LOADED!!! take it all apart clean it it can be a simple fix or judt replace the lever or bad part
nurmrich arms.com very cheap
@@HDSME thanks. Yes everyone should mak sure their gun is unloaded before doing anything with it.
im having the same issues... after sanding and polishing the safety it still does the same,,, not sure if im doing it right ,,, but i noticed you said to chop the safety in half and and break the bolt correct? lol jk im going to try this in a few hours... see what i get,,,, i remember last time you helped me out with my mosin on the loose trigger .sear bent job,,,thank you ,,,
Hello again. You should cocktail the bolt, and try to see into the space between the safety and cocking piece. Use a light to see better. Try to engage the safety and see how much more you need to take off the ramp of the safety to ensure it gets behind the edge of the cocking piece. When it engages just work on the ramp surface to make it smooth. All rebuilt rifles can have this issue since sear, cocking piece, and safeties are not always playing together nicely.
I have a problem with mine it goes too safe but when its in fire the whole thing wants too fall out
What wants to fall out? Does anything actually fall out?
Yes the whole safety
It is a Czech vz-24
And I can't find anything on it
David Schweiger do you have pictures? The safety is just the lever. I am not sure what you mean by the whole safety.
Great stuff as always. I have Mauser in the shop now that will fire on safe. Could it be the safety was filed too much?
Does it fire on both safety positions? Check the engagement surfaces on both the safety and the cocking piece. If they are rounded, or undersized, they may slip. Maybe someone altered the safety. If the safety is in upward position and the gun can fire, and you notice the safety returns to fire position, chances are someone filed the ramp too much and took the engagement ledge off. You can also check this if the safety returns back to fire position easily and without a felt "step" when you turn it back.
I'm pretty sure I have the same problem. My question though is how were you able to take the safety switch off the bolt in order to file it down. Don't you have to be able to take the whole bolt out to get access to all the components of it?
the better way is to take bolt apart, remove a little material, put it back together and see how you did. or you can flip the safety over to full safe which will bring the ramp to the top as you can see in the video and file it that way, but then shavings will get everywhere.
MosinVirus My safety switch won't move at all. It's strange because the ramp on it doesn't even seem that bad from what I could see. I'm probably going to take it to a gunsmith because there's no way I can think of to just pull it off without breaking anything.
+ImReadyD151 taking it to a gunsmith is definitely a fine option. however you can probably do it yourself. in order to take the bolt apart you can see videos (many of them) that describe what to do when you took the bolt out without engaging the safety first. it is exactly what you will need to do if your safety cannot be engaged now. basically the cocking piece is not sitting gar enough back in your rifle when it is held by the sear and the safety ramp can't get behind it. when the bolt is out of the rifle, you will be able to grab the cocking piece with something (watch those videos) and pull further back. your safety will then be able to rotate behind it and you will be able to take the bolt apart. Or if you choose to do so reinsert the bolt back in with the safety rotated to the up position (bolt will still work but sear is disconnected from cocking piece, so the trigger is dead), cock the bolt, turn the safety lever to full safe (all the way to the right) mark the area of the safety engagement area between the ramp and front of safety with a marker or dykem layout dye, turn the safety back over to the left. the cocking piece will move forward slightly and rest on the sear. now try to engage the safety so that the marked area hits the cocking piece a few times. then take the bolt out, manually move the cocking piece back to allow the safety to get behind it and rotate up, and move it over to the right most position. examine the area you marked and see if you can see where it was hitting the cocking piece. that will give you an idea of how much it is off by and how to modify the ramp.
ImReadyD151 Were you able to figure it out?
MosinVirus I looked more into it.I was able to pull the cocking piece back with the help of some videos like you said, but just to be safe I took it to a local gunsmith to look at it and make the proper adjustments. I'm relatively new to guns so I didn't want to make a mistake. Thanks for the help though
Been looking for this , thanks!
Glad i could help.
Ahhh, my safety works (VZ24), but sometimes it takes a LOT of force to flip it up. I can see how to fix that now. Thank you!
Glad I could help. Thank you for watching
Very nicely explained. Thanks
My pleasure.
Why wasn't this done at the factory when the rifle was made?
Medmann48 These rifles were properly put together originally. then they were refurbished through service and if serial numbers no longer match, they may not have been properly fitted. It is often the case with war time rifles.
I had to pry it back a little bit with a flathead screwdriver and push the safety up, there was no other way to dissassemble the bolt...
Yes, that is needed, especially when you want to flip the safety into disassembly position out of the receiver, or when the cocking piece or sear is too worn, or when the safety lever is not properly fitted. Many people grab onto the cocking piece lug with vise and then pull the bolt body so the safety can be engaged. Basically, many ways to skin a cat. 😊
@@MosinVirus it use to work barely but now it doesn’t work at all, I think its a manufacturing problem (its a yugo mauser m48)
How does this happen?
Many of the mismatched guns are built from parts that may not have been properly fitting in the first place.
You didn't have to do any thing with the rifle and the safety lever. This is a war rifle that needs a man to handle it not a gentle person. It is meant to be always on firing position. You want the rifle idle or locked, just use the rimmed cartridge or a flat screwdriver to grab the notch in the end of the firing pin and pull it back while turning the safety lever to middle or lock position. I Hope this is helpful.
Very.
The video and this comment are both helpful. I have three Mausers, all with the same problem. Wondering how such highly regarded rifles keep turning up with defective safeties. Springfields, Enfields, M1917s all have dandy safeties. I saw that the ramp could be improved, but why wasn't it done at the factory? So, figured it must be something else that I'm not seeing. I think i'll dress up the ramp some and like another guy's suggestion of putting a little radius on the front of the cocking piece. Thanks.
@chuckfischer7202 there are usually these reasons: a) capture rifle with parts thrown together, b) worn cocking piece/sear, and c) the bolt hasn't been fully threaded on placing the safety too far back.
Did you rust blue this one too??
No this one came looking like that.
MosinVirus, I have the same issue with my Yugo M48, would it be acceptable to file the safety ramp in the same manner and not affect the material surface temper? I'm thinking that it might cause the newly profiled ramp to gall with use making it worse, any thoughts? Did you temper your safety after filing the new ramp profile?
I didnt. I dont think those were case hardened.
Excellent my vz 24 is doing the exact same thing thank you for the info
My pleasure
If I want to have my brand new spare mauser rifle safety should I have a gunsmith file it.
If you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself, a gunsmith would be a good choice.
MosinVirus thank you very much 👍
You always surprise me, I just got a mauser mod98 German 1944 with natzi markings Do you know how I can tell what caliber it is?? Thanks Scott
scott 1911man I believe there should be a marking 7,92 on the barrel to tell you it is 8mm mauser. but to be sure you would have to slug it.
an interesting video super cool friend👍😍
Thank you. I am glad you liked it.
How did you file the safety did you did it by hand or by some kind of machine?
I filed mine by hand. No power tools were used.
MosinVirus thanks for informing me 👍
I have several Mauser's and on Mauser 93 I have this problem
Good to know.
Excellent instruction
Thank you
I did this on a Yugo M48 made a ramp so it would turn.
This is the best rifle an good imfo thanks for the video
My pleasure.
@@MosinVirus you are a good man thanks a lot for reply God bless you ji
@@balrajsingh-zp4wq thank you very much. Same to you.
some of them are kinda rough , polishing and POSSIBLY some filing is a fix for that ... but you gotta be careful doing that .
@@davidfriend1919 the RC ones are often thrown together.
@@MosinVirus The Russian captures ? .. well , I guess that is because they were dropped once , lol ...
@@MosinVirus hey Mausers can have stickey safeties , but no gun has as crude of a safety as a mosin-nagant ... still all great rifles though , just have to do a little TLC ...
@@davidfriend1919 Yes, in the cases where the gun is no longer numbers matching the parts could have come from anywhere and may not be properly fitted.
@@davidfriend1919 The mauser safety is fitted to the action. If the searing surfaces are worn for example, the cociing piece is not far enough back and can influence the safety engagement. The Mosin safety is not affected by the action as much. A bear to pull when done slowly, and "fun" to release.
I just bought a Spanish M43 La Caruna Mauser all matching numbers. It was ugly but it is turning out to be a diamond in the rough.
It is a 1944 production rifle.
Retired AF CE very nice. Mausers are absolutely great.
MosinVirus It was nasty but it is cleaning up well.
Did you get yours refinished?
Retired AF CE yes, this stock was really dirty. I tried to get it clean without sanding it at all and then applied BLO for a month. it turned out just how it looks in the video.
(sorry for my bad english) i got really bad problem with my replica kar 98 k. when i pull bolt towards me, safety just turns to left site 90° and i need to turn it back right side before pulling bolt back to loaded position.... if you dont know what im talking about i can just send you video when i will show you whats the problem. (worst english :( )
you over filed it itbis too lose ! and whats with the rubber gloves on a 300 gun ???
Thank you. Gloves so the camera doesnt dim the light too much.
I remember my Grand Father had this mouser rifle and its safety always stuck like really really bad. So bad that he used to take out the bolt assembly and force it with sone steady hook or something to release the safety. Later I learned it wasn't the original mouser but a local made copy for 7mm bore rather its original 7.62. For that single reason I never liked it.
I probably would not have liked it either.
Thank you so much
My pleasure.
Thanks now i am back on the airsoft fild
Why are you wearing gloves?
Because the camera I used to use reacted badly (dimmed lighting) when light colored objects were in view.
Awesome, thank you sooooooo much!!
Tim Jenkins My pleasure.
What's with the gloves, are you going to give that rifle a digital rectal exam ? 😊
Yes.
I'm glad you have a good sense of humor, 😊 great video by the way, I enjoyed it .
Thank you.
@@akrounds my pleasure
@ I compared with two other K98s and found that the edge of the firing pin nut was not chamfered, which made it difficult for the safety pick to push the firing pin nut out. I polished the edge of the firing pin nut and the problem was solved. I couldn't believe that the numbers on the firing pin nut, safety pick and other parts matched, and this K98 was produced by Mauser Oberndorf in 1941 with waffenamt stamped.