I am close to completing the restoration of a 1962 Raleigh Sports 10 and just discovered your video. Your frame dilemma is one I haven't seen in the bike I am restoring, but you've provided good information that could assist me in improving what has already been done. Thank you.
Such things are sent to test us - I'm sure you will overcome the frame issues and end up with another very nice bike. The difficult ones are often the most satisfying.
Good on ya, appreciate you giving us the update and the honesty on the mess-ups. I've made plenty myself in my day, so there is no shame in showing us where things went wrong so that we can learn from watching.
Awww nuts! All that work, I bet you can save it. I bought a 79 Trek 930 last year and had it stripped and resprayed. The frame builder let me know that the rear triangle was out of alignment but he was able to save it and to spread the triangle so I could get a more modern rear wheel. It has turned out to be a great rider, my size and it looks beautiful. You will figure it out and make it right.
Brilliant stuff. I love 60s ten speed racers. The best thing about gas pipe frames is that you can bend them six ways to Sunday and they'll usually be grand. Keep up the solid content, your videos are a real inspiration. Padraig
Ah that one has fought you on every turn. Don’t give up on it!!! The bike looks really nice and I’m sure you will figure it out. Glad your back. Cheers
So much great work, what an obstacle! I assume you'll bend it back, not sell it on, and keep it forever. It really looks beautiful. Thanks for the upload, Sundays now seem incomplete without you! 🚴👍
Great work ; we're all learning and being inspired The frame alignment lesson is : check first things first. This goes for other related components too----- can't tell you how many ancient epicyclic geared hubs I've lovingly restored only to find the axle isn't true! The hand painted bicycle really is an art. Sunbeams had SEVEN coats and were noted for their flawless perfection. You need a 3/4" sable brush to begin....lining is a whole separate subject. Good luck!
Given your skill and level of experience, I'm surprised you didn't take greater precautions in the early stages. String testing the frame, measuring the rear dropouts, getting the sizes right for the headset, the derailleurs, etc. should have been job one. You're rushing. Time to step back and gain perspective. Where do you go from here? Your willingness to take us through it, however, revealing your mistakes, is remarkable. Not too many bike mavens on YT would be willing to make themselves so vulnerable. That's what makes Monkeyshred different from the rest. The struggle with the bike -- sometimes you win, sometimes not. You've provided a valuable lesson about restoring and upgrading an old racer. Take your time, think it through.
I wouldn't say rushing Peter. I've had the bike for 4 years or so! Checking the frame alignment is not something I've really done on any bike but it will be something I do in future. Regarding the headset and derailleur sizes though, they were always correct. The only issue with the derailleur was the front being Benelux instead of Campagnolo and the Campagnolo having the outer cable stop. The Benelux choice actually came from also having the Blue Streak model which was spec'd with Benelux Mk7 as standard and as I had a spare, I figured it would also work. Unfortunately not. It's lead me to check the Blue Streak too which... is the same as the Sprite so it's possible... probable I bought the wrong Benelux derailleur originally by mistake. Unfortunately the front derailleurs are quite rare so I've only seen the pull chain style and not the lever style of the Campagnolo I featured. I'll have to keep my eyes out.
@@MonkeyShred I appreciate this barrage of tech info, but it is not reflected in the content of your video. And rushing a resto has nothing to do with how long you've owned the bike. You know this.
It's going to be a beautiful bike. Persevere with it, it'll be worth it in the end. I've just built a '62 Gran Sport and it's such a lovely ride! Keep up the great work.
Nothing more frustrating than a bike that seems like it is actively fighting you. And nothing derails me quite like a bunch of small details not working out. You will get there, I know it, and the gratification will be even greater when you do get to the finish line. We all believe in your abilities, I hope you do too.
I will stick around to see what happens to it. I might be dealing with a similar problem on a current project so I am very interested in how you proceed.
Just spread the dropouts and re-dish the wheel, job dob done! Cracking resto too, really pleased you've seen the light and put the powder-coating nonsense behind you, the results speak for themselves. As to paint-hardening (or lack thereof) ...... just give it time, quite literally, you can speed up the process by taking it inside and keeping it warm, EVENTUALLY it'll go nice and hard, doesn't help with it not being summer atm. Good stuff, am looking forward to the finished shots. Always enjoy the pussycat 'asides.'
With the wrapover seat stays, pointed lugs and machined fork crown, I suspect that this was made at Carlton, not the usual Raleigh shop. I had a '67 Sprite, and that frame was a normal Raleigh 3-speed one (upright bar and seat, Sturmey S5 hub, Raleigh lugs and thimble crown). Something is definitely wrong with the bottom bracket axle length. Raleighs often had wider than standard BB shells, but you say you reused the original parts. Did you possibly use the wrong size balls -- that may be your crunching?
Compared to RJthebikeguy & Sheldon Brown's procedures to align a rear triangle (frame on the ground with a wooden plank) I prefer Paul Brodie's vice way of doing it. It seems to me that it's a lot more precise because he is mostly doing it by hand. It might also be less risky to damage the paint that way, rather than possibly scratching it on the ground/wood. Here's a link to his video: ruclips.net/video/V2U5uhZN5v8/видео.html Good Luck !
I just bludgeoned my way through a paint job on an early 80's Japanese steel frame using Montana primer, paint, and glitter. I used 2k clear coat at the end and the whole process fell apart a little maybe halfway through. Had a couple runs, which I partially fixed. Then I was losing daylight to finish the job. On top of that, it is ~40°F here so it isn't curing in great conditions. I found it funny because I also ran into the same dropout misalignment, bottom bracket issues, and searching for proper brakes with reach.
@@MonkeyShred I've since moved it into a room that doesn't share air circulation with rest of the house. It'll sit there for the next 3-4 weeks I imagine... Its been dropping down to 25°f at night now here.
When you were putting the non-drive side crank on I was yelling "no, no, no!" at the screen because I thought you'd already got the drive side in place and so had the non-drive side crank 180 degrees out of place. :-)
Still a lovely job in spite of the issues. I don't think it will be hard to align the frame. Since the spacing is too narrow you just need to pull out the side that's too close to the centre-line. Take the bottom bracket out and grip the shell in a big vice. Then just pull on the dropout that needs to come out. It will need quite a yank but should be possible to do by hand. You can then realign the dropouts since you have the tool. Should be close enough especially with those sloping horizontal dropouts which can correct small misalignments.
@@MonkeyShred Yes. Someone else in the comments linked to the Paul Brodie video where he demonstrates this. But I have done it a few times and it works like a charm.
The same happened to me with montana paint. In my opinion it's not the best for bike painting. I had a lot of "spitting" issues with multiple cans. And If you layer it too thick, it stays soft. The 2k clear gets hard, but you can still press it in with your nail because the paint below is soft. I guess that's what happend with you.
Makes sense! I haven't had any problem with the spitting but the soft finish after 2K is definitely a problem. I'm going to try (on another bike) leaving the base coat to cure for 2-3 weeks in the warm before applying the 2K. Hopefully that should work.
@@MonkeyShred I did a lot of testing afterwards and got the best results with keeping the paint layer as thin as possible. 2 thin layers wet on wet should be sufficient . But I still prefer normale pressure Motip paint. A hard 2k expoxy primer also helps.
Metal Parts that don’t have a lot of detail, you can always rough sand and just go to a finer grit and finish it off with a fine steel wool. Works really well. Gets some metal polish and it’ll look new.
So awesome. A family member has that exact bike in crazy good condition as well as a tandem from the same Era, and a schwinn.I tried to get it off them but they won't I even offered to restore it,and give it back, No go :/ same bike tho lol
You said the clear coat was 2k (2 part paint?). I assume by implication, that the other paints weren't. In which case, could it be that the clear coat fully curing by chemical reaction has then led to the lower coats not being able to lose their solvents through it and therefore remaining soft? Just wondering - I'm no paint expert.
Not an expert either but I think that's right. The 2k is like a sheet of plastic. After putting on the colour you need to bring the bike inside the hacienda where it's nice and warm (especially at this time of year) for ideally a couple of weeks before throwing on the 2k clear.
I’ll have to give it a go on the next bike. The primer/base were both Montana. All sprayed indoors in the warm. Left overnight between each coat. I’ll try and get the Proflex 753 sprayed up before Christmas and leave it over the holiday for 2-3 weeks to cure.
I think the cable of the front derailleur should be guided on the right side. than the part on the bottom bracket is the counter support. And it matches with the chain of the front derailleur..
I put my newly painted frames inside my car for a few hot sunny days…I have no proof that it helps, but in theory the high heat should help the paint cure more quickly.
I threw one like this in the trash recently.. somebody had done a bunch of stick welding to it... my thought was more of an 80s model but I don't know.. it looked like this but with a Sakae SR MTS-101 that I kept.
Chroming is not that expensive...e.g. for forks and headsets and little bits. I use Prestige Chrome in Mexborough, and have been pleased with the results and the value. WD40 and a brass brush can work wonders of course.
In the end, yes. I haven't got any of those... tube rollers? I forget what they're called. To try and work the dent out a little before filling. It wasn't too deep anyway.
@@MonkeyShred Nice. I have on old peugeot from '71 which has a couple of nice dents in the top tube so I was thinking about the same... not sure it deserves it though!
You can bend it back, RJthe bikeguy made a video about that. Not too hard to do I do it sometimes when frame is slighlty out of alignment, on steel it is fine usually :)
You really should have taken this to a traditional steel frame builder and got it jigged first. Even then there is a limit to how much cold setting you can apply and it may have involved brazing in some new tubes. The DIY paint job also lets it down in my opinion. Why not go for professional powder coating or stove enamelling?
That'd be great if I'd checked the alignment first. As for the paint vs powdercoat thing... I've been through this a lot with a certain person on this channel before (eh Greg? ;) ) While I don't agree entirely with him on the points I do agree for a bike like this, painting is 100% better. Painting gives a much smoother, detailed finish (in my own experience) where as powder coating tends to fill in details like lugs, serial numbers etc. It also wouldn't allow for the blue headtube and the decals would have to be applied on top, bare, open to the elements. This paint job may be DIY but it uses a tough 2K clear coat which should be durable and last for a long time. Don't get me wrong, powder coating has its merits and uses but I don't think it should be used on older lugged bikes. (Stove enameling I have no experience with which is why I haven't mentioned that)
I am close to completing the restoration of a 1962 Raleigh Sports 10 and just discovered your video. Your frame dilemma is one I haven't seen in the bike I am restoring, but you've provided good information that could assist me in improving what has already been done. Thank you.
Excellent! Hopefully I should have this one completed soon too! It’s sat on the side for long enough waiting!
Keep on keepin on. Looks great, don’t throw in the towel. Would love to see it finished. Classics are cool
Thanks. Hopefully more to come soon!
Such things are sent to test us - I'm sure you will overcome the frame issues and end up with another very nice bike. The difficult ones are often the most satisfying.
That’s very true.
Good on ya, appreciate you giving us the update and the honesty on the mess-ups. I've made plenty myself in my day, so there is no shame in showing us where things went wrong so that we can learn from watching.
That's the idea! Can't hide the mistakes. Nobody is perfect!
Awww nuts! All that work, I bet you can save it. I bought a 79 Trek 930 last year and had it stripped and resprayed. The frame builder let me know that the rear triangle was out of alignment but he was able to save it and to spread the triangle so I could get a more modern rear wheel. It has turned out to be a great rider, my size and it looks beautiful. You will figure it out and make it right.
I’ll be checking every bike from now on, that’s for sure!
Brilliant stuff. I love 60s ten speed racers. The best thing about gas pipe frames is that you can bend them six ways to Sunday and they'll usually be grand. Keep up the solid content, your videos are a real inspiration.
Padraig
That’s definitely a positive. Gas pipe steel should be pretty resistant to bending back. Fingers crossed it works out.
Literally every time I've tried to build on an old frame. Wrong derailleur, bent stays, and loose forks. I feel your frustration.
Ah that one has fought you on every turn. Don’t give up on it!!! The bike looks really nice and I’m sure you will figure it out. Glad your back. Cheers
It will definitely be a great looking bike once it's complete! More soon (fingers crossed!)
So much great work, what an obstacle! I assume you'll bend it back, not sell it on, and keep it forever. It really looks beautiful. Thanks for the upload, Sundays now seem incomplete without you! 🚴👍
The Sprite and the Blue Streak have always been bikes I've wanted to keep. I believe they're both particulary rare models!
Great work ; we're all learning and being inspired
The frame alignment lesson is : check first things first. This goes for other related components too----- can't tell you how many ancient epicyclic geared hubs I've lovingly restored only to find the axle isn't true!
The hand painted bicycle really is an art. Sunbeams had SEVEN coats and were noted for their flawless perfection.
You need a 3/4" sable brush to begin....lining is a whole separate subject. Good luck!
Given your skill and level of experience, I'm surprised you didn't take greater precautions in the early stages. String testing the frame, measuring the rear dropouts, getting the sizes right for the headset, the derailleurs, etc. should have been job one. You're rushing. Time to step back and gain perspective. Where do you go from here? Your willingness to take us through it, however, revealing your mistakes, is remarkable. Not too many bike mavens on YT would be willing to make themselves so vulnerable. That's what makes Monkeyshred different from the rest. The struggle with the bike -- sometimes you win, sometimes not. You've provided a valuable lesson about restoring and upgrading an old racer. Take your time, think it through.
@@nk4 It wasn't addressed to you.
Am in the company of a determined rascal.
I wouldn't say rushing Peter. I've had the bike for 4 years or so! Checking the frame alignment is not something I've really done on any bike but it will be something I do in future. Regarding the headset and derailleur sizes though, they were always correct. The only issue with the derailleur was the front being Benelux instead of Campagnolo and the Campagnolo having the outer cable stop. The Benelux choice actually came from also having the Blue Streak model which was spec'd with Benelux Mk7 as standard and as I had a spare, I figured it would also work. Unfortunately not. It's lead me to check the Blue Streak too which... is the same as the Sprite so it's possible... probable I bought the wrong Benelux derailleur originally by mistake. Unfortunately the front derailleurs are quite rare so I've only seen the pull chain style and not the lever style of the Campagnolo I featured. I'll have to keep my eyes out.
@@MonkeyShred I appreciate this barrage of tech info, but it is not reflected in the content of your video. And rushing a resto has nothing to do with how long you've owned the bike. You know this.
I really like this video, because I am also a collector of old bicycles
It's going to be a beautiful bike. Persevere with it, it'll be worth it in the end. I've just built a '62 Gran Sport and it's such a lovely ride! Keep up the great work.
So with your Gran Sport and my Sprite and Blue Streak, we have the whole "Speed range"!
Nothing more frustrating than a bike that seems like it is actively fighting you. And nothing derails me quite like a bunch of small details not working out. You will get there, I know it, and the gratification will be even greater when you do get to the finish line. We all believe in your abilities, I hope you do too.
I do. It’s all part of the journey eh? I just really hope I don’t damage the paint 🥲
I will stick around to see what happens to it. I might be dealing with a similar problem on a current project so I am very interested in how you proceed.
Hopefully I’ll get back to it in the next couple of weeks!
Feel your frustration with bottom bracket and some other issues I’ve had on some old rebuilds, encouraging to see you work through it. good luck
There's always a way around things!
Just spread the dropouts and re-dish the wheel, job dob done! Cracking resto too, really pleased you've seen the light and put the powder-coating nonsense behind you, the results speak for themselves. As to paint-hardening (or lack thereof) ...... just give it time, quite literally, you can speed up the process by taking it inside and keeping it warm, EVENTUALLY it'll go nice and hard, doesn't help with it not being summer atm. Good stuff, am looking forward to the finished shots. Always enjoy the pussycat 'asides.'
Keep at it, lityle brother...you'll get it...I have faith in you!%
Thank you, I will
Nice to see you back They are lessons learned Can’t wait to see finished. Have a 71 super course just restored. 😎
Thanks! I'll certainly be giving frames a quick check before working on them from now on!
Nice find. I have an old Raleigh with the wraparound seat stays. Same badge too. Yes, it rides great! I love my classic road bikes.
With the wrapover seat stays, pointed lugs and machined fork crown, I suspect that this was made at Carlton, not the usual Raleigh shop. I had a '67 Sprite, and that frame was a normal Raleigh 3-speed one (upright bar and seat, Sturmey S5 hub, Raleigh lugs and thimble crown). Something is definitely wrong with the bottom bracket axle length. Raleighs often had wider than standard BB shells, but you say you reused the original parts. Did you possibly use the wrong size balls -- that may be your crunching?
Compared to RJthebikeguy & Sheldon Brown's procedures to align a rear triangle (frame on the ground with a wooden plank) I prefer Paul Brodie's vice way of doing it. It seems to me that it's a lot more precise because he is mostly doing it by hand. It might also be less risky to damage the paint that way, rather than possibly scratching it on the ground/wood.
Here's a link to his video: ruclips.net/video/V2U5uhZN5v8/видео.html
Good Luck !
Thank you for sharing that. I was not away of Brodie’s method. Impressive!
@@kurtschindler6252 Yes it's way better. Much more controlled.
Perfect! Thanks! I've not seen that. I'll give it a go!
I just bludgeoned my way through a paint job on an early 80's Japanese steel frame using Montana primer, paint, and glitter. I used 2k clear coat at the end and the whole process fell apart a little maybe halfway through. Had a couple runs, which I partially fixed. Then I was losing daylight to finish the job. On top of that, it is ~40°F here so it isn't curing in great conditions. I found it funny because I also ran into the same dropout misalignment, bottom bracket issues, and searching for proper brakes with reach.
-40f?! Damn that’s cold. Definitely way too chilly for the paint. Hope it worked out in the end.
@@MonkeyShred haha oh no, its around (~) +40°f
@@and6239 🤦♂️ clearly my eyesight is failing!
@@MonkeyShred I've since moved it into a room that doesn't share air circulation with rest of the house. It'll sit there for the next 3-4 weeks I imagine... Its been dropping down to 25°f at night now here.
I would do about 4 coats of clear coat, sand in between the coats with very fine wet and dry.
When you were putting the non-drive side crank on I was yelling "no, no, no!" at the screen because I thought you'd already got the drive side in place and so had the non-drive side crank 180 degrees out of place. :-)
Haha no no, it was just on there hanging. I'd checed the spacing from arm to chainstay before fitting.
Nice !!! Good job !!!
Still a lovely job in spite of the issues. I don't think it will be hard to align the frame. Since the spacing is too narrow you just need to pull out the side that's too close to the centre-line. Take the bottom bracket out and grip the shell in a big vice. Then just pull on the dropout that needs to come out. It will need quite a yank but should be possible to do by hand. You can then realign the dropouts since you have the tool. Should be close enough especially with those sloping horizontal dropouts which can correct small misalignments.
That could be a way actually! I’d put the BB shells back in to make sure it doesn’t chew up the shell.
@@MonkeyShred Yes. Someone else in the comments linked to the Paul Brodie video where he demonstrates this. But I have done it a few times and it works like a charm.
gorgeous bike and I'm sure with your skill you'll complete it
weight wise, I'm thinking sub 6kgs!!!!
Oh no it won't be that light! Not with the gas pipe frame anyway.
The same happened to me with montana paint. In my opinion it's not the best for bike painting. I had a lot of "spitting" issues with multiple cans. And If you layer it too thick, it stays soft. The 2k clear gets hard, but you can still press it in with your nail because the paint below is soft. I guess that's what happend with you.
Makes sense! I haven't had any problem with the spitting but the soft finish after 2K is definitely a problem. I'm going to try (on another bike) leaving the base coat to cure for 2-3 weeks in the warm before applying the 2K. Hopefully that should work.
@@MonkeyShred I did a lot of testing afterwards and got the best results with keeping the paint layer as thin as possible. 2 thin layers wet on wet should be sufficient . But I still prefer normale pressure Motip paint. A hard 2k expoxy primer also helps.
I have an idea that the 2K clear is airtight once the hardener polymerizes, keeping the colour coat from drying.
Are the lockrings / outer-threads of the non-drive side cup 26 tpi as well?
Metal Parts that don’t have a lot of detail, you can always rough sand and just go to a finer grit and finish it off with a fine steel wool. Works really well. Gets some metal polish and it’ll look new.
I'd be just a bit concerned with the chrome flaking off even more and making it look worse.
Did you have the Benelux rear derailleur or Campy?
So awesome. A family member has that exact bike in crazy good condition as well as a tandem from the same Era, and a schwinn.I tried to get it off them but they won't I even offered to restore it,and give it back, No go :/ same bike tho lol
Awesome! Do you have any photos of the decal that should be on the seat tube? I'd love to see it in it's original form!
Looks like someone squeezed the frame together with brute force to fit a single speed hub, caveman style?
Amazing as usual , any lead to where I can get this style Raleigh Head Badge ?
Thanks. Decals are available on eBay but the headbadge is pretty rare. Especially in good condition.
@@MonkeyShred Is there any shop you can recommend for decals? I have a Giant Peloton Superlite but I can't seem to find a set of decals for it.
Keep on keeping on.
The only way is forward
You said the clear coat was 2k (2 part paint?). I assume by implication, that the other paints weren't. In which case, could it be that the clear coat fully curing by chemical reaction has then led to the lower coats not being able to lose their solvents through it and therefore remaining soft? Just wondering - I'm no paint expert.
Not an expert either but I think that's right. The 2k is like a sheet of plastic. After putting on the colour you need to bring the bike inside the hacienda where it's nice and warm (especially at this time of year) for ideally a couple of weeks before throwing on the 2k clear.
I’ll have to give it a go on the next bike. The primer/base were both Montana. All sprayed indoors in the warm. Left overnight between each coat. I’ll try and get the Proflex 753 sprayed up before Christmas and leave it over the holiday for 2-3 weeks to cure.
Before applying the 2K that is
Would it not be safer to do all coats 1k or all coats 2k?
@@Ricobass0 could be! Always worth a try though.
RJ has a good video straightening frame technique. FYI
Love the colour. Was there any signs of damage under the paint?
No not that I saw. There was the dent in the top tube but it wasn't a big one. A little bit of filler and it was gone.
@@MonkeyShred how strange. No ripples or stress lines
So cool
I think the cable of the front derailleur should be guided on the right side. than the part on the bottom bracket is the counter support. And it matches with the chain of the front derailleur..
On the Benelux one, yes, but it is the wrong one for the bike. The Campagnolo one is the correct one for the bike.
I put my newly painted frames inside my car for a few hot sunny days…I have no proof that it helps, but in theory the high heat should help the paint cure more quickly.
I've done that before - and the fabric from the seats left an imprint on the paint. Woops!
RJ had a good video on straightening frames. FYI
You're in there now.. May as well get frame aligned.
Might as well!
Hello sir, what paint do you use?
Montana for the primer and colour / SprayMax 2K for the clear
9:26 - i this issue when you use spray paint, so i use now only hard clear coat from gun :D
I wish I had the equipment / space for that!
I threw one like this in the trash recently.. somebody had done a bunch of stick welding to it... my thought was more of an 80s model but I don't know.. it looked like this but with a Sakae SR MTS-101 that I kept.
Nice stem that!
@MonkeyShred it has the MT mini BMX race bars.. so I got it in a small Giant Iguana fast loud clicker 650b disc wheel and a 700c as a wheelie bike..
Chroming is not that expensive...e.g. for forks and headsets and little bits. I use Prestige Chrome in Mexborough, and have been pleased with the results and the value.
WD40 and a brass brush can work wonders of course.
So did you just fill the top tube dent?
In the end, yes. I haven't got any of those... tube rollers? I forget what they're called. To try and work the dent out a little before filling. It wasn't too deep anyway.
@@MonkeyShred Nice. I have on old peugeot from '71 which has a couple of nice dents in the top tube so I was thinking about the same... not sure it deserves it though!
I did exactly the same with my frame, it was only a finger print though so I just slammed a spitfire wheels sticker over it
Oh man!
You can bend it back, RJthe bikeguy made a video about that. Not too hard to do I do it sometimes when frame is slighlty out of alignment, on steel it is fine usually :)
Who’s RJ?
Nah I know 😉 I’ve seen those videos before. I need to give it a go and pray it doesn’t damage the paint.
@@MonkeyShred haha
You really should have taken this to a traditional steel frame builder and got it jigged first. Even then there is a limit to how much cold setting you can apply and it may have involved brazing in some new tubes. The DIY paint job also lets it down in my opinion. Why not go for professional powder coating or stove enamelling?
That'd be great if I'd checked the alignment first. As for the paint vs powdercoat thing... I've been through this a lot with a certain person on this channel before (eh Greg? ;) ) While I don't agree entirely with him on the points I do agree for a bike like this, painting is 100% better. Painting gives a much smoother, detailed finish (in my own experience) where as powder coating tends to fill in details like lugs, serial numbers etc. It also wouldn't allow for the blue headtube and the decals would have to be applied on top, bare, open to the elements. This paint job may be DIY but it uses a tough 2K clear coat which should be durable and last for a long time. Don't get me wrong, powder coating has its merits and uses but I don't think it should be used on older lugged bikes. (Stove enameling I have no experience with which is why I haven't mentioned that)
Good luck.
Thanks!
part 1
Definitely. Part 2 to come.