@@Shaman5EUSK oh no worries I bought every single pot in the shade line so I doubt I’ll automatically be putting just nuln oil on everything I’ll probably mix it up once in while, *point flys right over my head*
I found a good tool for cleaning out the crusty, dried out paints is actually a metal sculpting tool. It has a blade like end for digging out the really hard to get paint and the flat end to get large chunks of it out of the rim.
I mean, when I started, the Citadel paints were pretty limited (I'd been in the hobby for a little over a year before inks came out), and when i wanted a colour that i wasn't going to have to mix (for consistency's sake), the most easily available acrylics in model shops were Tamiya screw top pots, and if you're not careful (and what 12 year old is?), you end up with paint drying in the threads and opening the bastard thing is next to impossible.
Happened with the screw-on lid for GW paints as well :)) And the inks didn't keep well in screw-on lids, so my container was always stained from inks...
The pot is ALREADY A DROPPER! You can even see the drop of paint falling off the inside of the lid at 1:33. No one talks about this, but I bend the lid of the pot over my wet pallet and get a nice drop without ever touching a brush. I've gotten this to work with bases, layers, metallics, everything.
With how thick GW paints are, you get way more than you usually need. But yes. You can snip the connecting arm with your side cutters, and then the lid is free to travel over your palette. Useful for something thin like Lahmian Medium.
I didn't know I could do that with my pot lids. Thanks! I have to add in that GW has been more than generous in replacing paint that dried up, or paint I had sealed for awhile that dried up before opening.
@@Betterthenme If you wanna get nitpicky there can be huge differences in terms of mixing and how they act on a wet palette. I think squidmar made a good video about that recently
Been in the hobby for coming up to 20 years now and I still use pots, have tried droppers but tbh... the end of the brush trick instead of the bristles is what has kept me going since I usually only paint 2-3 models at a time.
@@alexanderfielding ahh i see, what did you mean by being able to do "the brush trick" with pots but not droppers? i thought you meant you used the bit in the top of the pot to make your bristles pointy
I, too, get frustrated with the paint pots, but not nearly as much as some other folks. I probably commit the worst heresy by putting water on my brush, going directly to the paint pot, and doing a little water mixing right in that little lid-scoop. It's quick, easy, and I don't even have to use a palette. The only issue I've had with the paint pots is the gummy build-up, but your pop-off method will surely fix that! My favorite GW colors that I can never go without are also Khorne Red (damn is that red smooth), but Iron Warriors (instead of lead belcher), as well as Averland Sunset -- talk about the best, most consistent yellow I have ever used. I also love me some Seraphim Sepia wash, much more than the standard Nuln or Aggrax -- it adds a beautiful warmth to any color without desaturating. For contrast paints, I go for Black Templars and Aggaros Dunes. Technicals? I have to mention Nihithak (sp) Oxide. Pretty much any other color can be replaced with another brand's, but in my experience, GW does the above ones magnificently.
A long time ago in a far away galaxy as a kid.....(no such thing as online stores) hobby stores really only carried testors and maybe one other brand of oil based paints. When I first got a box of Citadel pots they changed everything for me. The paint was designed for minis and not a large model tank or car. Plus it was water based. The old pot went to a screw top then back again to the current lift top. I also have other brands of paints, but I can't help but reserve loyalty in a corner of my heart for Citadel. Their contrast paint line renewed my love for them.
I've used GW paints for decades, and never knew about inverting the lids. Genius! I've also never spilled one. The only GW paints I really find unusable are the 'whites'. Corax and the others are garbage. I started using Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White, and it works much better. It's a little too matte for my liking (I know, a lot of people prefer that), but it does go on a lot smoother, so I'll stick with it for now... :)
I've been using Tamiya acrylic enamel paints for a few years now. I very much like that the big screw-on caps are bright, easy to see, and close enough to what's inside. The sturdy glass is nice, too. However, I started using Turbo Dork paints and I like the dropper bottles quite a lot.
Pardon me, do you mean the lower, wider black top flip-open bottles, or the screw top bottles, or the even older white top flip-open bottles? In my experience the black top flip-open bottles have mostly dried out, the screw top bottles are all completely dried out and the white top flip-open are mostly usable.
I have a pot of screaming skull that ive had since half way through 8th edition still kicking with a good shake and still flows like brand new although havent had a use for it in years
I like both Pots and Droppers, and I never understood the overblown hostility against the pots as mine are very old and still usable as I am always very careful on how tight I seal my pots.
Anyone remember the old hard plastic screw-top Citadel pots? They were quite pretty, but when the paint got into the thread - as it invariably did - those pots glued themselves shut and you needed brute force to break the seal.
Oh yes. I had a red glaze (very pretty and a complete necessity to avoid having orange Blood Angels if using the canon colours) and the thing froze so hard on the threads that some of the plastic chipped off when I used pliers to open it.
Pots are great for shades/washes or paints that you don't need to thin or mix (I use Mephiston red from the pot for purity seals) but they are just a slight pain in the but for mixing or for airbrush use.
I too love leadbelcher and haven’t found a good replacement for it yet, but Khorne red can easily be replaced with Game Color Scarlet Red. They’re about as close as you can get to being the same. I’ve used both and I struggle to tell the difference.
How would you compare Game Color Gunmetal vs Leadbelcher? I haven’t tried Citadel paints besides some technicals and shades. Game Color metallics are a bit meh (besides brass, I like it a lot). Gunmetal isn’t the worst, but I’m open for alternatives 😊
@@apinakapinastorba I hate all of the game color metallics. Haven’t tried any of the Model color metallics, but there actual Metal color range is phenomenal for airbrushing and base coats, can’t use them to drybrush or edge highlight though. I still primarily use GW metallics. I’ve been wanting to buy the Scale 75 metallic range but finding them in stock anywhere is a challenge.
They made even better pots 25 years ago. Hexagonal shaped absolute airtight lids. I still use those paints from their second edition pot range. Their most failed were the 3rd type of pots with screw on that were 0 airtight, means after like 4 years all of them were completely dried up. Sadly. I like the new pots and found that the Air line is perfect for those that have limited painting space. They come like pre thinned layer paints and dont need a wet/palette to be used. They can be taken similar to contrast and washes straight from the pot which is a big timesaver when you have limited space. Also there are options to avoid to topple over the pots.
I recently started painting again after a break of maybe 25 years. Pulled out my 90s citadel paints in the hex pots, all but one still perfectly liquid and usable. As opposed to the current GW paints, purchased just a couple of months ago, a couple of them are drying out already.
For no spill liquids, i make a base out of 2 part epoxy, just to shift the weight down. But fun sculpting/making as well. Perfect for those super glue containers to prevent the thing from tipping and contamination on the tip causing the rest to catalyze. Just use a mold release like clear packing tape. If you squeeze the container a tiny bit you'll get a nice click when it's dried.
One solution to the GW paint pots being easily knocked over, 3d print a small holder for the pot. I found a seller on eBay that makes them for like £3 each, such a great investment, ended up buying a load of the holders and giving them to the friends that paint. Also, the offical line scraper from GW is also great for getting dried paint out of lids, although no way as easy as Jay's method.
GW used to make these paint pots that were far superior to the modern ones. They were the ones they made right before this current series. The pots were wide so they never spilled. They had a nice wide rim that I would use as a palette. Another thing is that they had a hexagonal shape so if they were dropped they didn't roll under the dresser. When we got the modern design for Citadel pots, we hated them. There were people selling the old pots in the local store because the new ones were so hated.
Liked those pots also but hated the threads on the should you ever need to unscrew them they'd clog up and some paint always ends up in the thread from the shaking pots up. Used so many brands over the decades all the pots droppers have pro's and cons to them GW though for me was never worst to use wasn't and isn't the best experience either but they get more angst than deserved.
2:35 Using contrasts and washes directly is not heresy. It's smart, because some washes and contrast paints, by having a very different medium (compared to regular paints) sometimes bleed through the wet palette paper and stain the sponge. IHeck, even some metallic paints do this. And of course, if GW had a line of alcohol based paints , it would utterly skip the oven paper / wet palette paper and stain the sponge pad. Maybe this is why some painters use a wet palette for most colors but a plastic one (or even a bathroom floor tile!) for contrasts, washes, and metallics.
The "metallic paints will contaminate your wet pallete" is a myth. Mica particles, which is what creates the metallic effect, are much larger than the pigment particles. If the mica can go throught, then the pigment will too. Miniac also proved the myth wrong by putting a drop of silver paint directly on the sponge, adding the parchement paper and putting a drop of black over it. The black paint had no metallic flakes.
Your comment about the pots been tall for display/storage is at best partially true. The reality is the manufacturing line is automated and accepts a particular foot print safely. Note all the pots have the same 'width' regardless of height. This way the single line (even if replicated) can just be fed any of the pot's. So let's say on Monday they doing shades. Tuesday the doing washes & Wednesday contrast the same line can be used over and over with minimal down time or retooling.
Getting a pot holder will help a lot with avoiding spills. Of course blutac can work too, but it is not quite as nice. The pot holders are good for glue pots and bottles, especially tall ones like plastic weld.
I'm glad someone else notices how good having shades in a pot instead of a dopper bottle actually is, you can say what you like about citadel paints but I will always prefer my shades from a pot
I prefer Vallejo but my closest hobby store is GW. Citadel pots are fine, they are designed for a painting workflow that GW endorses and uses on their guide videos. For better or worse pots are also very accessible for new painters as droppers are best used on a wet palette where you can retain the set volume of paint that comes with each drop, without it drying. GW very obviously like systems that people can pick up and use with minimal set up.
I don't really get the hate around pots the ONLY issue I have with them is leaving them open. Other than that I love em! Its great being able to bring some paint up to the thingy in the lid and using only as much paint as you need compared to dropper bottles where I have to find things to paint with the remained of the drop I put on my pallet
might be a dumb question - but how do you keep the lid open so you can access the pot reservoir???? I just bought the nuln oil and the lid keeps closing on me - super annoying to keep opening up
Ugh, you mean "Corax Chalk, coarse"? I put mine in a dropper bottle with a fair bit of airbrush thinner and now it is a usable paint. But yes, it is not an issue of the pot that it can be made workable only with thinner.
Once upon a time like 25 to 30 years ago the GW pots were good. Today the only ones I have in my collection is a very old pot of Mithril Silver and another just as old pot of Goblin Green plus a few pot of their 1st inks. Otherwise today they are overprice and small. I have gone to using other paints for my miniatures.
There is the point. If you are a professional painter (or just thinking that), the best way for you is to use a wet pallet and paints in bottles. If you want just paint somehow and do not have mess with pallets, mixing colours, etc. - pots are the best for casuals. You just take some paint right from a pot and go on. Simple, fast, clean, do not need wide table for working.
I just want to ask, I normally shake my paint and open, dont do nothing else but sometimes paint ends in top of pot from unknown reasons and I loose so much of it
The thing with flipping the lid is that when it's time for the quarterly cleaning of the pots, it's really tiring on the fingers having to flip a whole collection of Citadel paints (Hey, I live in the middle of nowhere, and citadel is the only brand that can reliaby be found on shelves. And I've yet to find a substitute for Thousand Sons Blue). Get yourself a seam ripper. It's a tiny spike normaly used to slid in seams and cut the stitching. It will clean a good 70% of those pots. The rest can be flipped.
I use any pot that isn't GW's for my washes (screw tops are a lot less gummy than GW's). they gum up a lot less and mine are wider and lower. This also means I have one form factor for my washes. I also never bothered to put my contrasts in other pots. Still hate the GW pots though.
I know that i am pritty much in the minorety here, but i LOVE pots, and HATE dropper bottles ^^. the best pots are the realy realy old GW pots that P3 is using now days. I have switched every non pot paint i own into those.
I have a bunch of rather old Vallejo paints and when the paints starts to go bad, dropper bottles are horrible - the solidifying gunk gathers in the nozzle constantly clogging it instead of settling in the bottom. Also, I have a tea light holder where I keep the pot that’s open to reduce the knock over factor. Or you can buy the GW rubber thingy for 3 pots.
You know you can pull the dropper bottle head off very easily by inserting one of the thicker brass rods that you use to pin a miniature and just twisting sideways, yes? The act of putting the rod in also busts up the gunk clog so you can remove it with your fingers and then just put the bottle back together. Even having to do this every so often wastes less paint than a Citadel pot does, IMO.
@@gbprime2353 yeah, but I have paint pots that are literally over 25 years old and still usable (even GW). My old Vallejos are maybe 15 years old and would be mostly usable if the stupid dropper nozzles weren’t clogging all the time. New GW paints degrade really badly though. They rarely last over 3 years.
i honestly find it a bit annoying that i cant get a tiny amount of paint out of a dropper, its always one drop. Wheras gw pots i can just get a tiny amount using my brush. But i use about 4 ranges at once, just get which paint i want
Make a vid saying pots aren't all bad. Advertise shirt in said vid that says "Say no to pot's"... Uhm... what? Anyway, literally I've never seen anyone show or suggest poping the lid off and inverting it to clean the ring of dried paint. Very nice.
I´m still working with the GW paints and really happy with them. Great video as always. But I have a question to you: I saw this great black armour when you showed the contrast paints on the Deathwatch. Is there a video in one of your playlists? Couldn´t find it and I want to try this on my upcoming sisters of battle army. Best regards and thank you fpr your amazing and entertaining videos.
It's most likley a video that's coming soon as Jay did mention ordering new models on a recent video. This has also been recorded in this new studio so its definitely, well, new
The best hobbying tip ever. I've just cleaned the gunk out of four pots. Some of the lids were a bit hard to turn inside out but they all worked 🙂
2:27 I've been painting for almost a year, I had absolutely no idea that was a thing. Thanks for the tip
15 years for me. This is legitimately a game changer.
1991 or 92, and did not know this, but I don´t use GW any more, so no skin of my back :)
Same.
😲 thanks for the tip for turning the lid inside out Jay! Didn't know that it was possible 🤩
Literally blew my mind too! I hate cleaning pot lids.
Popped open my first GW pot yesterday (nuln oil) and it was a somewhat magical experience, I loved it!
Oh no no no no lol
don't get used to liquid magic (nuln oil)
seen a lot of newer painters get trapped by auto applying it to everything
@@Shaman5EUSK oh no worries I bought every single pot in the shade line so I doubt I’ll automatically be putting just nuln oil on everything I’ll probably mix it up once in while, *point flys right over my head*
@@ericart why do you say that? Nuln oil is awesome
@@Snavels everyone spills it at some point lol
I found a good tool for cleaning out the crusty, dried out paints is actually a metal sculpting tool. It has a blade like end for digging out the really hard to get paint and the flat end to get large chunks of it out of the rim.
I mean, when I started, the Citadel paints were pretty limited (I'd been in the hobby for a little over a year before inks came out), and when i wanted a colour that i wasn't going to have to mix (for consistency's sake), the most easily available acrylics in model shops were Tamiya screw top pots, and if you're not careful (and what 12 year old is?), you end up with paint drying in the threads and opening the bastard thing is next to impossible.
Happened with the screw-on lid for GW paints as well :))
And the inks didn't keep well in screw-on lids, so my container was always stained from inks...
Started GW painting in 1994, discovering top flipping today, thx alot
The pot is ALREADY A DROPPER! You can even see the drop of paint falling off the inside of the lid at 1:33. No one talks about this, but I bend the lid of the pot over my wet pallet and get a nice drop without ever touching a brush.
I've gotten this to work with bases, layers, metallics, everything.
With how thick GW paints are, you get way more than you usually need. But yes. You can snip the connecting arm with your side cutters, and then the lid is free to travel over your palette. Useful for something thin like Lahmian Medium.
@@CJWproductions you don't need to snip anything and you can thin your paints a little bit right in the pot if it's too thicc 👍
I can rarely get the GW lids to sit correctly or not dribble paint down the back.
@@Doodlebob563 That's what I do. Get my brush nice and wet, get some paint on the wet brush, and that's typically good enough.
I didn't know I could do that with my pot lids. Thanks! I have to add in that GW has been more than generous in replacing paint that dried up, or paint I had sealed for awhile that dried up before opening.
Watching that agrax earthshade tip over damaged me deeply on an emotional level
Finally somebody who agrees that acrylic paints are essentially as good as each other regardless of the brand!
Laughs in using dollar store acrylics
@@Betterthenme If you wanna get nitpicky there can be huge differences in terms of mixing and how they act on a wet palette. I think squidmar made a good video about that recently
I still use a ton of gw paints but I recently got a bunch of pro acryl and their bottles are definitely my favorite hoping to get more soon
okay the tip with the back of the brush is just soo simple but soo goooood
Been in the hobby for coming up to 20 years now and I still use pots, have tried droppers but tbh... the end of the brush trick instead of the bristles is what has kept me going since I usually only paint 2-3 models at a time.
Yh your meant to put the paint on a pallets to thin it down and do the bristles on the pallete
@@crustyjuggler382 yeah I use a wet palette, but for my actual paints I just use pots still is what I'm saying :)
@@alexanderfielding ahh i see, what did you mean by being able to do "the brush trick" with pots but not droppers? i thought you meant you used the bit in the top of the pot to make your bristles pointy
I, too, get frustrated with the paint pots, but not nearly as much as some other folks. I probably commit the worst heresy by putting water on my brush, going directly to the paint pot, and doing a little water mixing right in that little lid-scoop. It's quick, easy, and I don't even have to use a palette. The only issue I've had with the paint pots is the gummy build-up, but your pop-off method will surely fix that!
My favorite GW colors that I can never go without are also Khorne Red (damn is that red smooth), but Iron Warriors (instead of lead belcher), as well as Averland Sunset -- talk about the best, most consistent yellow I have ever used. I also love me some Seraphim Sepia wash, much more than the standard Nuln or Aggrax -- it adds a beautiful warmth to any color without desaturating. For contrast paints, I go for Black Templars and Aggaros Dunes. Technicals? I have to mention Nihithak (sp) Oxide. Pretty much any other color can be replaced with another brand's, but in my experience, GW does the above ones magnificently.
I hate how much you've blown my mind in this short video. Subscribed.
that lid inside out thing, i never knew you could do this!? revolutionary
Daaaaamn, this top flipping idea is awesome - thank you! It will be so much easier to clean the pots
Never knew about lifting the lid off! thank you!
Admit it Jay, you guys started this video concept with "We have a shirt about pots, lets make a video about pots"! :P
I just went through and cleaned up all of my pots! Thank you for that tip!
Thanks for the tips, never knew you could turn the lids inside out. Helped me clean out a few pots I had trouble with
A long time ago in a far away galaxy as a kid.....(no such thing as online stores) hobby stores really only carried testors and maybe one other brand of oil based paints. When I first got a box of Citadel pots they changed everything for me. The paint was designed for minis and not a large model tank or car. Plus it was water based. The old pot went to a screw top then back again to the current lift top. I also have other brands of paints, but I can't help but reserve loyalty in a corner of my heart for Citadel. Their contrast paint line renewed my love for them.
I've used GW paints for decades, and never knew about inverting the lids. Genius! I've also never spilled one.
The only GW paints I really find unusable are the 'whites'. Corax and the others are garbage. I started using Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White, and it works much better. It's a little too matte for my liking (I know, a lot of people prefer that), but it does go on a lot smoother, so I'll stick with it for now... :)
I've been using Tamiya acrylic enamel paints for a few years now. I very much like that the big screw-on caps are bright, easy to see, and close enough to what's inside. The sturdy glass is nice, too. However, I started using Turbo Dork paints and I like the dropper bottles quite a lot.
2:00 -- WHY IS THIS A SECRET.... Why is this not widely known and shared.
GW's old hard plastic paint pots were so much more stable and better. Wish they never switched to the soft plastic.
Pardon me, do you mean the lower, wider black top flip-open bottles, or the screw top bottles, or the even older white top flip-open bottles? In my experience the black top flip-open bottles have mostly dried out, the screw top bottles are all completely dried out and the white top flip-open are mostly usable.
@@daili4917 the hard plastic black flip ups. I still have some from 20 years ago.
Ral Partha's plastic lid screw tops were flawless
Also, thanks for the tip for cleaning the top of a pot . Didn't know I could do that :D
Thanks for the paint pot lid tips
Runelord Brass & Rakath Flesh are the MVPs of Citadel paints
You can get silicone pot holders for washes, or if you're being frugal just wrap a thick rubber band around the bottom a few times.
the part where you just pop the lid off and invert it blew my mind (i quite literally took all the gunk out with a metal toothpick today)
Just started downloading and printing the Pateron terrain files. Great stuff!
"One of us, one of us, one of us."
The back of the paint brush idea! 🤯 why didn’t I thing of that. Thank you!
Thanks for the tip about taking the paint with the end of the paintbrush handle 👍
I usually put a bit of blue-tac under my nuln oil pots so I can't knock them over!
I have a pot of screaming skull that ive had since half way through 8th edition still kicking with a good shake and still flows like brand new although havent had a use for it in years
I was today years old when I found out those pot lids invert.
Really enjoying your videos! Thank you for your work!
Ah yes, nudist mondays are back.
Jay stripping off his clothes for the sake of merch is always a sign of a new week.
I like both Pots and Droppers, and I never understood the overblown hostility against the pots as mine are very old and still usable as I am always very careful on how tight I seal my pots.
Same here.
Because GW pots fucking suck
Anyone remember the old hard plastic screw-top Citadel pots? They were quite pretty, but when the paint got into the thread - as it invariably did - those pots glued themselves shut and you needed brute force to break the seal.
Oh yes. I had a red glaze (very pretty and a complete necessity to avoid having orange Blood Angels if using the canon colours) and the thing froze so hard on the threads that some of the plastic chipped off when I used pliers to open it.
Pots are great for shades/washes or paints that you don't need to thin or mix (I use Mephiston red from the pot for purity seals) but they are just a slight pain in the but for mixing or for airbrush use.
I too love leadbelcher and haven’t found a good replacement for it yet, but Khorne red can easily be replaced with Game Color Scarlet Red. They’re about as close as you can get to being the same. I’ve used both and I struggle to tell the difference.
How would you compare Game Color Gunmetal vs Leadbelcher? I haven’t tried Citadel paints besides some technicals and shades. Game Color metallics are a bit meh (besides brass, I like it a lot). Gunmetal isn’t the worst, but I’m open for alternatives 😊
@@apinakapinastorba I hate all of the game color metallics. Haven’t tried any of the Model color metallics, but there actual Metal color range is phenomenal for airbrushing and base coats, can’t use them to drybrush or edge highlight though. I still primarily use GW metallics. I’ve been wanting to buy the Scale 75 metallic range but finding them in stock anywhere is a challenge.
You know the gw scraping tool well it fits in to the pot lid track for cleaning.
Wish i learned that few weeks ago about inside out before rebuying a pot.
this is awesome for a beginner thanks!
They made even better pots 25 years ago.
Hexagonal shaped absolute airtight lids.
I still use those paints from their second edition pot range.
Their most failed were the 3rd type of pots with screw on that were 0 airtight, means after like 4 years all of them were completely dried up.
Sadly.
I like the new pots and found that the Air line is perfect for those that have limited painting space.
They come like pre thinned layer paints and dont need a wet/palette to be used.
They can be taken similar to contrast and washes straight from the pot which is a big timesaver when you have limited space.
Also there are options to avoid to topple over the pots.
I remember those hexagonal ones, still have a few, they had some lovely metallics
I recently started painting again after a break of maybe 25 years. Pulled out my 90s citadel paints in the hex pots, all but one still perfectly liquid and usable. As opposed to the current GW paints, purchased just a couple of months ago, a couple of them are drying out already.
For no spill liquids, i make a base out of 2 part epoxy, just to shift the weight down. But fun sculpting/making as well.
Perfect for those super glue containers to prevent the thing from tipping and contamination on the tip causing the rest to catalyze.
Just use a mold release like clear packing tape. If you squeeze the container a tiny bit you'll get a nice click when it's dried.
How satisfying is it to peel out that paint though ...
Is there a full video of the deathwatch veteran at 2:46 being painted?? It looks super cool
I love the pots has a great look
I do love pots for contrasts, washes and metallics
One solution to the GW paint pots being easily knocked over, 3d print a small holder for the pot. I found a seller on eBay that makes them for like £3 each, such a great investment, ended up buying a load of the holders and giving them to the friends that paint.
Also, the offical line scraper from GW is also great for getting dried paint out of lids, although no way as easy as Jay's method.
I just took a square slice of 20mm pink foam, cut out a circle in the middle and now i have paint holders. crude, ugly, but cheap and effective.
Lol he said earthsahde I was like yup can't live without it
GW used to make these paint pots that were far superior to the modern ones. They were the ones they made right before this current series. The pots were wide so they never spilled. They had a nice wide rim that I would use as a palette. Another thing is that they had a hexagonal shape so if they were dropped they didn't roll under the dresser. When we got the modern design for Citadel pots, we hated them. There were people selling the old pots in the local store because the new ones were so hated.
Liked those pots also but hated the threads on the should you ever need to unscrew them they'd clog up and some paint always ends up in the thread from the shaking pots up. Used so many brands over the decades all the pots droppers have pro's and cons to them GW though for me was never worst to use wasn't and isn't the best experience either but they get more angst than deserved.
2:35 Using contrasts and washes directly is not heresy.
It's smart, because some washes and contrast paints, by having a very different medium (compared to regular paints) sometimes bleed through the wet palette paper and stain the sponge. IHeck, even some metallic paints do this. And of course, if GW had a line of alcohol based paints , it would utterly skip the oven paper / wet palette paper and stain the sponge pad.
Maybe this is why some painters use a wet palette for most colors but a plastic one (or even a bathroom floor tile!) for contrasts, washes, and metallics.
The "metallic paints will contaminate your wet pallete" is a myth. Mica particles, which is what creates the metallic effect, are much larger than the pigment particles. If the mica can go throught, then the pigment will too. Miniac also proved the myth wrong by putting a drop of silver paint directly on the sponge, adding the parchement paper and putting a drop of black over it. The black paint had no metallic flakes.
Your comment about the pots been tall for display/storage is at best partially true.
The reality is the manufacturing line is automated and accepts a particular foot print safely. Note all the pots have the same 'width' regardless of height. This way the single line (even if replicated) can just be fed any of the pot's.
So let's say on Monday they doing shades. Tuesday the doing washes & Wednesday contrast the same line can be used over and over with minimal down time or retooling.
Just flipped a lid inside out for the first time wow mind blown.
You absolute madman! You mean to tell me I’ve been able to just turn the lid inside out all this time? What the **** am I doing?
I wonder if afixing a piece of metal to the underside of the wash pots would lower it's center of gravity enough to stop it from toppling over?
I cut the hinges, shake it well, then drip some off from the lid thing.
Getting a pot holder will help a lot with avoiding spills. Of course blutac can work too, but it is not quite as nice. The pot holders are good for glue pots and bottles, especially tall ones like plastic weld.
I didn't even know you could invert the lid.
Omg I was JUST cleaning out my pot seals!
You can also snap the lid with scissors and put the paint on your pallette via that tongue drop by drop. It makes cleaning also a non issue.
I'm glad someone else notices how good having shades in a pot instead of a dopper bottle actually is, you can say what you like about citadel paints but I will always prefer my shades from a pot
If you keep tipping them over, grab some bluetac and tac the pot to your desk. I do that with the wash cup as well.
a tip against spilling your washes , take the lid from a spray can and put the pot in that , this way its wider and doesnt tip over
A friend printed me a pot holder that reduces chance of spill and holds open the flip cap.
I'm still using bada black citadel wash from a few years back haha
GW pot are perfect for Contrast that i use mainly for my maint job, dropper bottle for contrast is jsut wasting paint.
Ladies, gentlemen, orks and gw shills, please film my flams by subbing to eob. This channel is too good. Keep it up Nick and Jay.
I prefer Vallejo but my closest hobby store is GW. Citadel pots are fine, they are designed for a painting workflow that GW endorses and uses on their guide videos. For better or worse pots are also very accessible for new painters as droppers are best used on a wet palette where you can retain the set volume of paint that comes with each drop, without it drying. GW very obviously like systems that people can pick up and use with minimal set up.
Great video! So which paint company do you use the most?
Agrax Earthshade and Nuln oil for life hahaha Generally, dislike the GW pots, but totally agree with taking washes and contrast straight from the pot
You have more pictures or Video form the deathwatch by 2:40? That looks cool.
I don't really get the hate around pots the ONLY issue I have with them is leaving them open.
Other than that I love em! Its great being able to bring some paint up to the thingy in the lid and using only as much paint as you need compared to dropper bottles where I have to find things to paint with the remained of the drop I put on my pallet
might be a dumb question - but how do you keep the lid open so you can access the pot reservoir???? I just bought the nuln oil and the lid keeps closing on me - super annoying to keep opening up
I use GW paints a lot. No real trouble with them. Although the Corax white is always a problem. But that isn’t a pot issue.
Ugh, you mean "Corax Chalk, coarse"? I put mine in a dropper bottle with a fair bit of airbrush thinner and now it is a usable paint. But yes, it is not an issue of the pot that it can be made workable only with thinner.
@@mrheisenberg83 yes that thing. The odd part is…. Everyone knows the issue with that paint and yet GW does not correct it
I’ve spilled more than one wash point infact i have reikland flesh on my hands from earlier today where the lid wasn’t quite on
Once upon a time like 25 to 30 years ago the GW pots were good. Today the only ones I have in my collection is a very old pot of Mithril Silver and another just as old pot of Goblin Green plus a few pot of their 1st inks. Otherwise today they are overprice and small. I have gone to using other paints for my miniatures.
There is the point. If you are a professional painter (or just thinking that), the best way for you is to use a wet pallet and paints in bottles. If you want just paint somehow and do not have mess with pallets, mixing colours, etc. - pots are the best for casuals. You just take some paint right from a pot and go on. Simple, fast, clean, do not need wide table for working.
The reason with wide Potts would be a to large colorsurface and faste dryout.
Cool shirt! I hate pots too!
I'm pretty okay leaving my washes, contrasts and technicals in my pots, rest has long been migrated to droppers. Squat wash pots would be so sexy.
I just want to ask, I normally shake my paint and open, dont do nothing else but sometimes paint ends in top of pot from unknown reasons and I loose so much of it
One thing thanks to GW silly tall pots Ive sold about £100 worth of 3d printed anti spill pot holders. 😜
The thing with flipping the lid is that when it's time for the quarterly cleaning of the pots, it's really tiring on the fingers having to flip a whole collection of Citadel paints (Hey, I live in the middle of nowhere, and citadel is the only brand that can reliaby be found on shelves. And I've yet to find a substitute for Thousand Sons Blue). Get yourself a seam ripper. It's a tiny spike normaly used to slid in seams and cut the stitching. It will clean a good 70% of those pots. The rest can be flipped.
All my gw paint is now in dropper bottles. The contrast and washes are still in the pots.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
I use any pot that isn't GW's for my washes (screw tops are a lot less gummy than GW's). they gum up a lot less and mine are wider and lower. This also means I have one form factor for my washes. I also never bothered to put my contrasts in other pots. Still hate the GW pots though.
I know that i am pritty much in the minorety here, but i LOVE pots, and HATE dropper bottles ^^. the best pots are the realy realy old GW pots that P3 is using now days. I have switched every non pot paint i own into those.
You can take the lids off?!? 🤯
I have a bunch of rather old Vallejo paints and when the paints starts to go bad, dropper bottles are horrible - the solidifying gunk gathers in the nozzle constantly clogging it instead of settling in the bottom.
Also, I have a tea light holder where I keep the pot that’s open to reduce the knock over factor. Or you can buy the GW rubber thingy for 3 pots.
You know you can pull the dropper bottle head off very easily by inserting one of the thicker brass rods that you use to pin a miniature and just twisting sideways, yes? The act of putting the rod in also busts up the gunk clog so you can remove it with your fingers and then just put the bottle back together. Even having to do this every so often wastes less paint than a Citadel pot does, IMO.
@@gbprime2353 I can pull them apart, it’s just a giant hassle, messy and just clogs back up in five minutes.
@@maxxon99 Old paint will do that. At room temperature, most acrylic paints start to degrade like that after 4 years or so.
@@gbprime2353 yeah, but I have paint pots that are literally over 25 years old and still usable (even GW). My old Vallejos are maybe 15 years old and would be mostly usable if the stupid dropper nozzles weren’t clogging all the time.
New GW paints degrade really badly though. They rarely last over 3 years.
oh.... you can flip the top.... awsome
i honestly find it a bit annoying that i cant get a tiny amount of paint out of a dropper, its always one drop. Wheras gw pots i can just get a tiny amount using my brush. But i use about 4 ranges at once, just get which paint i want
Make a vid saying pots aren't all bad.
Advertise shirt in said vid that says
"Say no to pot's"...
Uhm... what?
Anyway, literally I've never seen anyone show or suggest poping the lid off and inverting it to clean the ring of dried paint.
Very nice.
I preferred the old twist top pots citadel used to make, i hate the lift up lids
I´m still working with the GW paints and really happy with them. Great video as always.
But I have a question to you: I saw this great black armour when you showed the contrast paints on the Deathwatch. Is there a video in one of your playlists? Couldn´t find it and I want to try this on my upcoming sisters of battle army. Best regards and thank you fpr your amazing and entertaining videos.
It's most likley a video that's coming soon as Jay did mention ordering new models on a recent video.
This has also been recorded in this new studio so its definitely, well, new