There are so many things that go into how loud a dulcimer (or any instrument) is. Shape, materials, sound or breathing holes, construction method and design, and on and on. We see the additional bottoms, the arched necks, and on and on. And the debate to what is best continues. One thing that is often overlooked (and another member pointed it out) is the thickness of the soundboard. And in addition to that, the fact that you don't have to keep it uniform in thickness. What folks see from the top will be flat, but you can shave away thickness on the under side to best allow for the wood to vibrate. Luthier work is truly amazing stuff from both a craftsmanship side as well as physics. The relative quietness of a Mountain Dulcimer was why they were generally not played in "group" like some other stinged (and otherwise) instruments. They were a solo instrument meant for yourself or an intimate setting. But we now see them used in concert with other instruments and people wanting/needing more volume. This aside, there are other methods for increasing the sound that have nothing to do with the build.... you can use different picks, play harder or softer, and even go... electric. :) When it comes to the Mountain Dulcimer we seem to be seeing a huge resurgence that eclipses their actual use when in their prime.... and the quality and availability is amazing. When I was a kid, virtually no one even heard of them, let alone HAD one. But now.... well, here we are! Cheers!
That is an exceptional looking instrument. I'm a professional instrument tech for 20 years in NJ and small volume luthier. I had my first introduction to a dulcimer not long ago as a repair job and fell in love with the instrument. Been looking into dulcimer construction and design. The video you posted is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. The three legged free standing bridge just makes a whole lot of sense. My guess is that if you remove more mass from the bridge you'd get more energy transfer to the soundboard -- ... think of the way mass is reduced on a violin bridge.
Hi Eric, it just so happened that I saw your video as I was in the middle of building my own dulcimer. Mine is certainly not a fine example of a dulcimer, I made it only 18" long by about 11" wide, from plywood, 2x4's, with a maple neck. In fact, I had no expectations that it would have much of a sound, or decent tone. BUT, there's more to the story. I made my bridge like yours -- straddling the neck, and giving direct contact from the strings to the top. The bridge doesn't touch the neck at all. Also, I made my bridge from a piece of Padauk I had laying around in my shop. To my amazement, this thing has surprisingly great volume and a very pleasing beautiful tone. Your bridge idea WORKS. Glad I found your video when I did. Thanks.
The sound board on a classical guitar is about 90-100 thousandths. It also, in most cases, has a portion of the fretboard glued to the upper bout. I wonder what would happen on the dulcimer if the sound board were reduced to that thickness and fan-bracing used inside. The fretboard could also be cut away underneath to where the upper bout begins. If the bridge were left as you have it, the heel could be attached to the end (instead of being glued on the face.) This would also allow for a small rise/shape in the lower bout.
Doc Slaughter 2 weeks ago On a mt. dulcimer the bridge is the most ineffective area to produce sound vibrations. On a guitar, violin etc, the bridge sits in the middle (sort of) of the sound plate. On a mt. dulcimer the bridge sits over the tail block, the second most solid, vibration free area on the instrument. The sound plate is actuated where-ever the noter or finger is placed on the fret board. The bridge can be used to voice the instrument via use of brass, bone, micarta, rose wood etc., but it does a very poor job of adding or increasing the volume.
I just "inherited" a 4 string mountain dulcimer. I've played guitar professionally since '63 and think this one will be a project. 1. the intonation sucks 2. the fretboard is concave to the point that the action is in the "iron man" camp 3. the top has sunk in noticeably along the fretboard and 4. I think I'd prefer chromatic frets and was even thinking of having the strings reversed - low D closest to me. It appears to be or was supposed to be 26" scale/VSL, but measuring from the nut to the midpoint octave is 13+1/8th. So even the nut is misplace.... I like your ideas a lot. Thanks for sharing your thoughts/ideas.
How about a sound post under the bridge? (violin, viola...etc. have them) There is an art to placing them, but it will help carry the sound throughout the instrument....just a thought.
One question if I may, I've built mine similar to yours, what wood did you use for the bridge please, I have white oak, walnut, and mahogany. Thanks in advance.
Some good ideas! Well done. I like your movable bridge that fits around the fretboard. Why not suspend the ENTIRE fretboard from each end and get it off the top? That would improve the sound and volume a lot.
From what I have seen from the French epinettes des vosges with hourglass shape soundbox, they seem to deliver their volume also from a hollow fretboard placed on an open top, that is: a top divided into two halves left and right from the lifted fretboard. Would that, in combination with your arched bridge part (excellent solution) work also?
Another reason your dulcimer is loud is that you are not holding it on your lap, which is soft and damps vibrations. You are holding it on the arms of that chair, which makes it louder but may soon get uncomfortable because the dulcie is too high.
Just getting going on a my first dulcimer construction and been looking for design tips. I sure like the bridge idea in this one. Is that bridge glued into position or is it movable?
Anyone who builds know’s that the scale determines where your frets go in where your saddle should be. moving your saddle back-and-forth is going to throw your instrument out of intonation. The fretboard is just basically one big brace like in a guitar, David Bettie is most likely the best Dulcimer I have seen. He has been building folk instruments. Just because you build a few dulcimers don’t make you a expert.
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There are so many things that go into how loud a dulcimer (or any instrument) is. Shape, materials, sound or breathing holes, construction method and design, and on and on. We see the additional bottoms, the arched necks, and on and on. And the debate to what is best continues. One thing that is often overlooked (and another member pointed it out) is the thickness of the soundboard. And in addition to that, the fact that you don't have to keep it uniform in thickness. What folks see from the top will be flat, but you can shave away thickness on the under side to best allow for the wood to vibrate. Luthier work is truly amazing stuff from both a craftsmanship side as well as physics.
The relative quietness of a Mountain Dulcimer was why they were generally not played in "group" like some other stinged (and otherwise) instruments. They were a solo instrument meant for yourself or an intimate setting. But we now see them used in concert with other instruments and people wanting/needing more volume.
This aside, there are other methods for increasing the sound that have nothing to do with the build.... you can use different picks, play harder or softer, and even go... electric. :) When it comes to the Mountain Dulcimer we seem to be seeing a huge resurgence that eclipses their actual use when in their prime.... and the quality and availability is amazing. When I was a kid, virtually no one even heard of them, let alone HAD one. But now.... well, here we are! Cheers!
That is an exceptional looking instrument. I'm a professional instrument tech for 20 years in NJ and small volume luthier. I had my first introduction to a dulcimer not long ago as a repair job and fell in love with the instrument. Been looking into dulcimer construction and design. The video you posted is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. The three legged free standing bridge just makes a whole lot of sense. My guess is that if you remove more mass from the bridge you'd get more energy transfer to the soundboard -- ... think of the way mass is reduced on a violin bridge.
Hi Eric, it just so happened that I saw your video as I was in the middle of building my own dulcimer. Mine is certainly not a fine example of a dulcimer, I made it only 18" long by about 11" wide, from plywood, 2x4's, with a maple neck. In fact, I had no expectations that it would have much of a sound, or decent tone. BUT, there's more to the story. I made my bridge like yours -- straddling the neck, and giving direct contact from the strings to the top. The bridge doesn't touch the neck at all. Also, I made my bridge from a piece of Padauk I had laying around in my shop. To my amazement, this thing has surprisingly great volume and a very pleasing beautiful tone. Your bridge idea WORKS. Glad I found your video when I did. Thanks.
The sound board on a classical guitar is about 90-100 thousandths. It also, in most cases, has a portion of the fretboard glued to the upper bout. I wonder what would happen on the dulcimer if the sound board were reduced to that thickness and fan-bracing used inside. The fretboard could also be cut away underneath to where the upper bout begins. If the bridge were left as you have it, the heel could be attached to the end (instead of being glued on the face.) This would also allow for a small rise/shape in the lower bout.
Thank you for the information. Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Doc Slaughter
2 weeks ago
On a mt. dulcimer the bridge is the most ineffective area to produce sound vibrations. On a guitar, violin etc, the bridge sits in the middle (sort of) of the sound plate. On a mt. dulcimer the bridge sits over the tail block, the second most solid, vibration free area on the instrument.
The sound plate is actuated where-ever the noter or finger is placed on the fret board.
The bridge can be used to voice the instrument via use of brass, bone, micarta, rose wood etc., but it does a very poor job of adding or increasing the volume.
I just "inherited" a 4 string mountain dulcimer. I've played guitar professionally since '63 and think this one will be a project. 1. the intonation sucks 2. the fretboard is concave to the point that the action is in the "iron man" camp 3. the top has sunk in noticeably along the fretboard and 4. I think I'd prefer chromatic frets and was even thinking of having the strings reversed - low D closest to me. It appears to be or was supposed to be 26" scale/VSL, but measuring from the nut to the midpoint octave is 13+1/8th. So even the nut is misplace....
I like your ideas a lot. Thanks for sharing your thoughts/ideas.
that bridge is a very good idea I just bought one and I see plenty of improvements I can make on it.
i just saw this and was wondering if you ever made any more of these and sold them. love the dulcimer.
How about a sound post under the bridge? (violin, viola...etc. have them) There is an art to placing them, but it will help carry the sound throughout the instrument....just a thought.
One question if I may, I've built mine similar to yours, what wood did you use for the bridge please, I have white oak, walnut, and mahogany. Thanks in advance.
Some good ideas! Well done. I like your movable bridge that fits around the fretboard. Why not suspend the ENTIRE fretboard from each end and get it off the top? That would improve the sound and volume a lot.
From what I have seen from the French epinettes des vosges with hourglass shape soundbox, they seem to deliver their volume also from a hollow fretboard placed on an open top, that is: a top divided into two halves left and right from the lifted fretboard. Would that, in combination with your arched bridge part (excellent solution) work also?
Nice- you have any pdf’s in the step that. I am making first one right now. Thx nice I get better I’d like to try that system. Looks great!
Ok I have a question about the bridge placement. Did you adjust the fret measurements to match the new scale length ?
Yes. Any time the bridge is moved in relation to the nut, the fret scaling changes accordingly. The octave fret is always halfway between them.
Another reason your dulcimer is loud is that you are not holding it on your lap, which is soft and damps vibrations. You are holding it on the arms of that chair, which makes it louder but may soon get uncomfortable because the dulcie is too high.
Do you make custom design dulcimers for individuals?
Thank you and be Blessed!
T.W.
Sounds like a banjo when you're picking over the strum holler. Going to a "regular" bridge probably had something to do with that. :)
And that dulcimers use... banjo strings.
Just getting going on a my first dulcimer construction and been looking for design tips. I sure like the bridge idea in this one. Is that bridge glued into position or is it movable?
It is movable for intonation purposes.
I have an Appalachian dulcimer. As of recent I also have a yodeling pickle. Put the two together and you've got quite the pair.
ah, vinyl scratch. i see you are a man of good taste. 😏👌
What do you charge to build a dulcimer like the one shown...?
William Riley hi there I build dulcimers in England. If you are resident in England and still interested in buying one contact me. Thanks
Thanks man.
Very beautiful but first of the sing sounded like a banjo
Smart ! Now, get the entire fingerboard up off the soundboard.
Anyone who builds know’s that the scale determines where your frets go in where your saddle should be. moving your saddle back-and-forth is going to throw your instrument out of intonation. The fretboard is just basically one big brace like in a guitar, David Bettie is most likely the best Dulcimer I have seen. He has been building folk instruments. Just because you build a few dulcimers don’t make you a expert.