6 Ways to Reduce Planer Snipe
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2016
- Struggling with planer snipe? Here are 6 ways to reduce planer snipe from your thickness planer while milling lumber for woodworking projects.
Thank you to RIDGID Power Tools for sponsoring this video.
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![[BLACKSWAN] ‘Roll Up’ Official Music Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ulvCwyKrwqw/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome work! Great, thorough video. Will definitely be applying a few of these tips.
+Crafted Magazine thanks, Johnny. Hope they help
Brad thanks for great demo, just ordered my Dewalt 735X and I'll be definitely using a couple of the methods you showed!
Great demonstration. I use two of the methods you showed the one with boards in front and back and the angle method. I have very good luck with theses methods. Keep up the great work
Thanks!
Thom spillane
Thanks Brad, I've already tried some of yours tips but I'as not sure of what happening but now I know, great thanks
The angle method works best for me. So much so that over the years it's become muscle memory using a 20 year old Delta 12 inch planer. Thanks too much for the video. Todd
Sounds like you have the same as mine...do you find a difference from either side or middle?
Does your cutter head back off if you don't hold the handle?
I clean and wax the deck frequently, I clean the rollers too andit definitely seems to help. I also adjusted the height of the feed tables.
I verified the blades are sharp and accurate.
I don't know why but even "sneaking up" bit by bit the damn thing shreds the surface from end to end...it still looks better than before it goes in. I deal with reclaimed wood mostly. I don't force the wood either.
The only "training I've had on my delta or any planer is RUclips university...
I have to figure out what I'm doing wrong before I do further damage.
The other thing is it's making a weird random crackling or snapping noise after a bit of use. It reminds me of the same noise my kitchenaid mixer made when the bushings wore down. Do you know how to check? I don't want to tear it apart if I have to.
I'd really appreciate your advice please
O.M.G Guy doesn't even look like the same human... Never delete this video Brad...you've come so far.
🤪
Great explanation!
+Tyler G thanks, Tyler!
well done explanation ! thumbs up !
Useful tips everyone should know. Thanks for sharing Brad!
+GuysWoodshop thanks, Guy!
Great vid for beginners like myself! And I was mad, thinking my brand new planner was deficient!!! Will try your suggestions for sure! Specially burning money in the air ;)
+Fabricio R N Hahaha, the money in the air is the key
Great video Brad! I did not know the angle one. I will give it a try. Let Ridgid know you have had a big influence on my tool purchases. I bought that planer a couple of weeks ago and got a new Ridgid trim router yesterday. Keep up the great work👍
I'll be sure to let them know :)
This vid helped - and no “music! Thanks much.
best explanation I've seen. keep up the good work
Like yours, my Rigid 13' planer is the older version with the side crank and the lever for repeat cuts. From the videos I have watched here lately, I believe this version is better then the newer one. I am patient so I take light passes 1/64" - 1/32" and if there is any snipe it is minimal and easy to sand away. However, I will begin using the back to back feed and side by side feed to see if I can eliminate it entirely.Thanks.
Great Video Brad. Also good to mention that there will be more snipe if cutting against the grain as the blades tend to 'dig' more before getting to the second roller which then holds the end of the board back down. Cutting with the grain reduces tear out as well. This is more of a problem with flat sawn or through sawn boards. It is much less of a problem with quarter sawn and even less so with rift sawn baords.
+Thomas McGrath III good tips!
Thanks for the tips, great video!
Good tips, Brad. I was the last tip would be to insert another board thru the planer spanning the infeed and outfeed beds that the pieces being planed would ride on. That's the method I finally adopted after trying numerous adjustments on my lunchbox planer. A piece of melamine solved my snipe woes.
Great techniques! While the board lifting into the cutter head can and does certainly cause snipe, I believe the primary cause is that the cutter head/pressure roller assembly moves as a unit. When the first roller is contacted, the assembly tilts slightly, leaving the cutter head and second roller hanging lower. As soon it contacts that second roller, the whole assembly levels out. This is why using a sacrificial first board works.
+Matthew S that makes a ton of sense!
Good points. Also, this planer is a Ridgid TP1300. It has an adjustable snipe lock that when adjusted properly, snipe is virtually eliminated....no need for these other ideas. This same machine design with adjustable snipe lock carried over to when Steel City took over the design as a 40200H and now Cutech Tool as a 40200H-CT. However, the Steel City and Cutech versions both use a spiral style cutterhead.
yes
Ahhh. I was wondering why this would work. Because there is still a pivot point. Thank you.
I agree. The whole cutter head assembly, consisting of two pinch rollers and the cutting wheel between them, is constructed to tilt slightly when needed (although I can't explain why, wish I could). The pinch rollers are spring loaded and will move up slightly when they engage the workpiece, then drop back down after the workpiece passes by. At the beginning of the cut only the rear roller is engaged, the front roller is still at its original (lower) height, the rear roller is higher (say 0.010 in. for the sake of argument), the whole assembly is tilted down towards the front, so that the cutting wheel is tilted 0.005 in. lower than the rear (driving) wheel. As soon as the front roller is engaged the assembly levels out and the cutting wheel assumes the intended elevation relative to the drive rollers for the remainder of the cut--until the workpiece leaves the rear roller behind. Then, the rear roller will drop 0.010 in. and the cutting wheel will drop half that much, leaving 0.005 in. of snipe until the end.
At least I think this is the way it must work. I have never seen or read this description, though.
Thanks. Definitely some great advice
Excellent. I just bought a planer. This will help me get on the right track in the beginning
You confirmed my thoughts on this !! Thank you !
Glad to have watched this. Thanks!
Thanks for the video.
Big help. Thanks.
I also have the Ridgid Planer, it is great, easy to change the blades and maintain.
Having the input and output completely level with the planer helps a lot from my experience. But I do think that the sacrificial wood at each end is not only the easiest but the most effective.
Very informative! Thanks!
Good tips and video Brad!
+donny carter thanks, Donny!
Great video - very informative and interesting.
+barbara kvistad thanks!
Working on planner that ran 1 million b ft a shift. Your spot on. It’s all in the in feed and out feed line up This was a 4 Headed planner .
Good one . . . Thank you
Thanks, I have seen some of your methods but not all that you shared. Also nice explanation and camera work as well !
+Robert Babb thanks!
Great tips, thanks!
Thanks very much Brad, I have a big snipe problem with my new Metabo DH330
Great job explaining this. I just purchased one
+Bryan Gatewood glad it helped, Bryan!
Thanks for your ways. Will be shure to try on my machine.
Hope they help!
Sweet tips! I really needed to know these!
+Travis Youngs now you know!
Definitely learned a lot! Gonna make a few adjustments to my planer.
+Katie Cleveland (Addicted 2 DIY) hope it helps!
Super informative! Thanks Brad. Love watching your youtube and instagram content.
I forgot to ask, is that planer the Ridgid R4330?
+Luke Martin thanks, Luke!
+Luke Martin it's the TP13002. Older model
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Ed
Great Tips there, Thanks. Take Care, Barry (from England)
+Barry Roberts thanks for the feedback, Barry!
Thanks. Little bit of lift on the wings and diagonal feed helped me out a lot.
Great stuff! Enjoyed it.
Thanks, Douglas!
I found extending the in feed and out feed tables helps. Same you would do on a table saw to keep long pieces level throughout the entire cut.
Yes, that is a great tip as well
I use method #6 routinely. the trick is to lift as high as needed based upon how flexible the wood is and how long it is. for example, if Im planing a 12 foot long piece of poplar, I hold the trailing end up about 2 or 3 feet higher than the planer bed.
Great tips
Great info!
+Stone and Sons Workshop thanks, Shawn!
4:20 i'm surprised the sacrificial side boards did not work better. i have used this method on several cutting boards lately and it works great. i have a dewalt 734, i do not use the lockdown lever. however, the one difference is that since i'm making cutting boards that are several pieces laminated together, my sacrificial boards are actually in various places in the middle. so perhaps it's really a combination of #1 and #4, but it works well for cutting boards.
thanks for the great videos and tips! keep on rockin' and rollin'!
Awesome video Brad!
Thanks, Richard!
Thank you !
Good video, I am not sure why cutting the ends seems more expensive than feeding other wood through on the sides and front and back, but all in all you gave a lot of good methods and showed it well, and did it in a few minutes. Ok, I will check out your channel.
Cutting the ends is more expensive when doing a large group of boards like 15 or 20. That adds up fast. For just a few boards you're right, it's about the same.
Just bought a planer and found this very helpful. As a photographer I was impressed with how much work you put into making this video! It is excellent!
Thanks for doing that for us!!
Thanks, Bill! Enjoy the new planer.
Great video Brad
thank you!
Maybe manufacturers should design their planer with 2 pressure rollers at each sides (infeed and outfeed). It would probably help a lot to reduce (eliminate?) snipes.
The host has misled the audience. Snipe isn't caused by the work coming into the planer tilted up in the front. All planers have snipe, to some degree or another. Stationary table planers are the worst because the rollers have to lift the weight of the planer plus exert force onto the board. Additional rollers will not have any effect.
I always feed narrow material at an angle either from the left side or the right side so that as it goes through the planer you get even wear on your cutter knives and eliminate Snipe almost entirely. For wide boards I use a sacrificial piece at the leading end and then the trailing end
This really helped me
The first one worked for me! Other video tole me to level it bit it did not help as much as making it slightly higher! Just liked and subscribed!
I needed this as I'm about to get my first planer. Great info, Thanks!
+Simple DIYr awesome,enjoy it!
Love seeing your Harbor Freight Drill Press, Har! Gb
Just so you know, your #2 suggestion (angled infeed & outfeed tables) is not really a valid option for anything other than very short boards, since it can actually produce snipe towards the middle of your workpiece, because if the piece is higher on both the front and back ends than in the center (where the cutterhead is), then the cutter is going to dig out a portion in the middle of your board!
There is a terrific video posted on RUclips recently on this topic by The Snekker Show which details this exact issue, entitled "Everything you need to know about thickness-planer snipe". I found it a very informative video.
I am still researching additional snipe-reduction ideas, so thanks for posting this video. There does not seem to be a "perfect solution" to this problem for everyone, but many folks seem to have found what works for them and their own processes.
Hi thanks for the video. I am very new to wood working but very soon on I found that putting a board (similar size) ahead of your piece does the trick nicely. Not seen oany snipe on the backend. I am using a metabo HC260C thickesser planer
cool!
Thanks for sharing, pal.. appreciate it.. Ran the video thrice w/o sjipping adverts... that's my bit
Thanks for adding to world knowledge!
I have a 733 Dewalt. I slid a 12.5 by 35 inch piece of melamine into planer deck. I top coated the surface to make it slicker and it seems to eliminate 90 percent of snipe. I use calipers to measure thickness anyway so I usually don't pay attention to depth gauge. The in and out beds are not adjustable with this Dewalt, unfortunately. A 734 or 735 might be better, but this is the one I'm stuck with. Does a good job overall
I've got the same planer and I ran about 10, 2.5ft long boards today using the angle method and got zero snipe! Thanks!
Would doubling the rollers, both entering and exiting, reduce this altogether? Maybe a spring loaded roller at the table side just before and after the internal rollers?
If the sacrifice board can be re-used it is not really sacrificed.
You can use only one and grab it at once as it exits and re-use in the same operation at the end.
+woodensurfer agreed!
The sac board has to be of very similar thickness of the work. Generally this is not a problem because we generally joint stock of certain usual thicknesses, say 4/4, 3/8 inch etc.
The only time I need 0.673 inch, say, is for use a shim/spacer for jigs.
Great video demonstration! I just bought a Rigid like yours and I was wondering what is the minimum board length I can plane on it? Thanks again..
I don't recall what it is, but I'm sure the manual says. Maybe 8 to 12"
Well done! I have seen a cheapskate variation of the sacrificial board leading and trailing the workpiece: use the same board for both ends of the operation.
How can that work at the tail?
@@QqJcrsStbt Put two piece of scrap into the mix and locate them at the beginning and end of each run.
On method #3, if you're fast enough you can reuse the first board as last board too.
thanks for not BSing by saying "ELIMINATING Snipe". I appreciate honestly and no use of clickbait.
Excellent video!
I met several methods.
Is there no definitive solution to avoid the problem?.
Greetings from Argentina!
Thanks for the planer snipe ideas. I have to same exact model planer bought back around 2007 from Home Depot. Where do you get your replacement knives from? The last set I bought off e-bay but I was not impressed with how not sharp they were and the fact that they did not seem to last. Thanks
Interesting video. To be honest, unless the timber is expensive I just cut off the ends. How many times do you have a board exactly the right length for the project, invariably you have to cut too length resulting in offcuts. We all need firewood anyway!!!
Thanks
Yeah, for sure. Cutting the ends of is by far the easiest way to get rid of it :)
Good video Brad. I appreciate your honesty on the results. I use the angle method as well as a modified version of lifting idea. I try to keep the board from moving by pushing it down flat onto the in and outfeed table. Same idea, just keeping it from lifting. I think the planer also has a lot to do with it. Before I got the planer I have now I was using a cheap HF model with no in/out fees tables and snipe was impossible to stop. The model I have now has really nice solid steel tables and snipe isn't bad at all. Keep up the good work!!
Thanks, Nate. Yeah, the planer definitely will play a big role in it. But these methods should help for most. I thought about doing a hybrid lift and angle, but just left it as is.
I needed to plane down a bunch of 18" boards. After adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables, I was still getting an unacceptable amount of snipe. Running a leader and follower board worked like a charm for me.
Glad it worked for you!
Were the sacrificials 18"? Did you use a seperate pair for each board?
In the tests you ran did you have the in and out feeds raised slightly higher like you stated at the beginning of the video or were they level with the bed?
Great video, I learned something! 👍
Always start by making sure that your in & outfeed tables are even with & fully in plane with the center table.
I have the same planer & by using the carriage lock, feeding the piece at an angle & having your tables flat, to slightly raised at the farthest out ends, snipe should be minimal. Use scrap to see what works best.😉✌
Great tutorial! Thank you. Where did you get the pencil? I've looked around but nothing similar to the pencil you used comes up.
That's a regular pencil with one side removed to expose the graphite
Great video. Thanks, Brad for doing these tests. I'm quite surprised too at the snipe not being eliminated in using the sacrificial boards on each side. But, thinking about it, it seems that would be the most wasteful method. I've used the angle method as well as the board in front of and behind and have had better luck with the latter. I have a 12" Delta so it might be slightly improved when you step it up to a more expensive lunch box planer. I haven't had much luck with lifting the board up. Also, are the rollers adjustable on your planer or is that just a feature on the floor standing planers?
I don't believe the rollers are adjustable on this one, but I've never tried it out.
Another thought might be if there is space, place blocks to equalise the level of the In feed bed so longer planks can be fed through. Therefore relieving the pressure off the roller by having the timber level to the In feed bed & roller/cutters
Just purchase my first Planer. thanks for the tips. Question... What if you lift a bit more when feeding and extracting the board?
I have seen other videos where this is demonstrated. But they did not show the actual results :( Sniped?
With sacrificial sides, they need to be wider than the ones you used. they need to be capable of feeding through without flexing too much. What happened in your case was the side boards flexed hitting the exit roller and essentially allowed snipe on the work piece. A wider side board would reduce the snipe more. If you are planing thicker pieces, you can use narrow sides, but with thinner thicknesses, you need to compensate with wider sides.
+John Hunkler thanks for the input 👍
Did you look into adding a 'bed extension'? I've recently built a 6' long melamine topped board that sits in the mouth of the planer, which effectively extends the bed of the planer to reduce snipe. I'm curious how it would compare to your other methods.
I have an old style planar so it might be an issue with the design, but I could swear the board is going in flat and not lifting into the cutter head. It's the whole roller, cutter, roller assembly that is pitching to cause the cutter head to dip into the board
@Fixthisbuildthat thanks for the lesson.
Use wD-40 on wings pivot points
Very informative! I just bought my first planer, therefore just now looking into this problem. I have 2 questions:
1. You didn't mention whether using the bolts to adjust both the infeed and outfeed tables would put the board in a bind once it is in contact with both tables. I'm wondering if the planing would be of uneven depths, or if the knives would "bow" the board down to make the right thickness.
2. When using a sacrificial board ahead and behind the board to be planed, what is the minimum length of the sacrificial one for it to be safe for it to be going through the machine? Thanks.
at least the same length as it is between rollers
I think there would be a tiny bow but probably elevating by a 16th of an inch or something. At least that's what I'm going to try when I get mine.
Great video and tips. oh ya make it rain!
+David Cleveland thanks, Dave! Glad my humor wasn't lost on the masses 😃
Snipe drives me mad! Definitely some good methods here and I will continue to combat it!
I've watched many videos and read many explanations of how to eliminate snipe. Most of them have some validity, but the reasoning behind the fixes is pretty light and is mostly snake oil. Since none of the fixes is a complete fix and all seem to have some use, it seems a common problem should be looked for. Nearly all of the explanations fail the test of physical laws. So looking for something that does, it would seem that flex in the machine is the culprit. When the wood is only in contact with one roller the machine flexes just a little and the other roller drops. Makita has placed cross braces on their machine and I'm told that seems to help a lot. The Makita is basically built like all the others except the top line Dewalt. However, those guide rods are still free to bend a little. I think the cheaper DeWalt with the lockdown could be improved to maybe eliminate snipe if in addition to the lockdown cross braces were added. I think the lockdown effectively shortens the guide rods and helps to keep them from bending. Those guide rods appear to be about 12" long and I can put a 5/8" rod in a vise and push down on the end with my hand and bend it visibly.
Thanks! Super helpful.
I have heard one can put a 4 ft level across the two feed tables and lower the cutting head so that it applies a minimal load on the tables. When the pressure is removed it leaves the two tables about 1/16 higher than the stationary table, which in effect is the theory you use in lifting the board in and out of the planner. Have you ever done / tried this method?
Great video! I have DEWALT DW734 and getting a snipe at both ends is normal? I thought it was an issue with the machine....lol
Glad to know the 250buck more (double price planer) has the same issue. Sorry it still does it though :(
lifting the input bed a bit is the same as lifting the board on feed-in
+Kurt M yes, it achieves the same thing in two different ways.
The last option to me was the only one I thought about. Basic physics and it make sense.
I don't know whether I missed it but at 0:07 you said you'd show us six ways to avoid snipe and tell us which you think is the best. You didn't sum up and say which you thought was the best. Great video though.
+Richard Hawkins you're right! I lost track of it when shooting the outro. I actually like a combo of canting the board to an angle and lifting on the back.
I meant to say the reason I used that method was because it was the only one I knew!!
Thank you for informative video. Here's a novel idea for the companies that make all these planers, how about making one that doesn't produce snipe in the first place. So many examples of this, where people have to alter the machine in some way to improve on the purchase machine. Like a zero clearance base for a mitre saw, why isn't that made like that at the factory, instead of the buyer having to improve upon it at home.
Because for 90% of the work done on these machines (construction jobsites where a board needs to be thinned to fit somewhere) snipe isn't actually an issue since it's often not visible and the snipe is like maybe an 1/8th in thick and likely won't affect anything whereas for fine woodworking those machines are far more expensive and you can almost completely eliminate snipe with adjustments to those machines over a lunchbox planar. It's often why people who do really fine woodworking often have at least a Grizzley planar or something even more expensive than that.
The last method works pretty good after you get a feel for it.
RIDGID has a online parts catalog & the motor brushes & Caps for your TP1300 are N/A !
Check Cutechtool.com The older Ridgid TP1300 is now Cutech's 40200 with spiral style cutter head. Parts are interchangeable.
MOTOR BRUSHES & CAPS FOR YOUR TP1300 ARE N/A ! Once they wear out you must buy another planer . A NEW CUTTER HEAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT BRUSHES & CAPS . SEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY !