Just adjusted mine. I found that i needed to leave i miniscule amount of play after tightening the lock nut to install on to the dropout. The quick release finished the job when tightening. Now my rear wheel spins great. Very smooth for long with no play/wobble. If i take all the play out of the axle before i mount the wheel, when the quick release is tightened proper the axle would bind and not spin freely for very long at all. It Took some time to get it correct but so satisfying when you finally figure it out and perfected. 👍
good video, I didn't realise front and rear bearings were different size so always pleased to learn something new. My tip for getting cone adjustment just right is to bring cone firm to bearing then just back off ever so fractionally then making sure you hold spanners firm for the lock and tighten procedure. This gives a smooth bearing run without any play in the cones.
thanks for the tips, I was really surprised when I took apart my front hub and found that it didint have sealed cartage bearings, kind of bumed me out, but thanks to this video I can get them back in working order
0:27 the problem with the cone and dustcap of the freehub is that it's separate. Now if you do have a chance to have your bike go through some rough road over time the dustcap will loose and so does your bearings it will have a tiny wobble. A cone attach to the dustcap has higher advantage and he is correct on 1:15
Thank you so much for posting this video - I have used butter instead of grease sometimes but I can't really recommend it unless you are willing to do it every month and even then there seems to be quite a bit of rust. Have you used butter in the past?
While the videos make it look very easy I have found proper cup and cone hub tension very difficult to get perfect. Definately lost my patience a few times. Generally I find find too much play or too tight. Makes me wonder if Im working with a cheap hub or user error, most likely the latter. Sometimes Ill seemingly get it close to perfect throw it on the front fork and notice an unacceptable amount of play. Probably wont kill me riding it however; the process has been very annoying.
I have found that the cones end up getting tighter after tightening the locknuts, but I found out a way to fix this. If it's a little tight, I put the wrenches on the cones only and loosen (turn counter-clockwise) them together. When you loosen the cones without touching the locknuts, the cones loosen while the locknuts stay tightened. You can also tighten the locknuts only if the cones are loose using the same principle.
on one side of my wheel the bearings were brown in color and the other side the bearings are silver, so should i replace the dull color bearings? also what causes this to happen?
Your heading saids OVERHAUL, you did not overhaul it, you did not remove the cup and replace it that i s what we wanted to see, Your heading shoud say "check and regrease bike bearings !!!"
Just adjusted mine. I found that i needed to leave i miniscule amount of play after tightening the lock nut to install on to the dropout. The quick release finished the job when tightening. Now my rear wheel spins great. Very smooth for long with no play/wobble.
If i take all the play out of the axle before i mount the wheel, when the quick release is tightened proper the axle would bind and not spin freely for very long at all.
It Took some time to get it correct but so satisfying when you finally figure it out and perfected. 👍
I did the same and now my rear wheel spin longer cheers
good video, I didn't realise front and rear bearings were different size so always pleased to learn something new. My tip for getting cone adjustment just right is to bring cone firm to bearing then just back off ever so fractionally then making sure you hold spanners firm for the lock and tighten procedure. This gives a smooth bearing run without any play in the cones.
Thanks for the upload. What bicycle shops don't want you to know! They would rather sell you $200-$800 rims!
Good vid. I especially like the tip about counting the thread grooves. The other hub overhaul vids don't mention that tip.
thanks for the tips, I was really surprised when I took apart my front hub and found that it didint have sealed cartage bearings, kind of bumed me out, but thanks to this video I can get them back in working order
Thanks for video. My wheel was all over the place. I was ready to go and get a new wheel. LOL :)
Now mine is like new.
Great video; thanks for the detail, especially about tightening.
Glad it was helpful!
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks
You're welcome!
With that Hub, how to remove that cup? Can't hit the cup from the other side.
Thanks
0:27 the problem with the cone and dustcap of the freehub is that it's separate. Now if you do have a chance to have your bike go through some rough road over time the dustcap will loose and so does your bearings it will have a tiny wobble. A cone attach to the dustcap has higher advantage and he is correct on 1:15
Thank you so much for posting this video - I have used butter instead of grease sometimes but I can't really recommend it unless you are willing to do it every month and even then there seems to be quite a bit of rust. Have you used butter in the past?
Nope. I find it attracts flies.
Butter contains salt……not good for a bearing. If desperate use some Vaseline in preference to butter!
But can i use some different con nut if i need to change it ? Or exactly that kind of con ? Tnx
Rear: 9x 1/4"
Front: 10x 3/16"
check!
Thanks for the tip but where will I find the a stick which you placed at last
Amazing vid. Thank you.
How much grease do you want? TheVeloWeb: yes.
Thanks for vid.
Nice watch, what make/model is it?
Hi - what sort of grease do you use? Thanks.
And because this i love the sealed catridge bearings
Thanks you it's really helpful 👍👍👍
Glad to hear that
My third net went inside and struked what to do? IAM struggling
A good short video!
Thanks. A very important step.
While the videos make it look very easy I have found proper cup and cone hub tension very difficult to get perfect. Definately lost my patience a few times. Generally I find find too much play or too tight. Makes me wonder if Im working with a cheap hub or user error, most likely the latter. Sometimes Ill seemingly get it close to perfect throw it on the front fork and notice an unacceptable amount of play. Probably wont kill me riding it however; the process has been very annoying.
I have found that the cones end up getting tighter after tightening the locknuts, but I found out a way to fix this. If it's a little tight, I put the wrenches on the cones only and loosen (turn counter-clockwise) them together. When you loosen the cones without touching the locknuts, the cones loosen while the locknuts stay tightened. You can also tighten the locknuts only if the cones are loose using the same principle.
jjenson2006 Thanks for the tip!
It may be your axle
Big fucking thanks!!!!!!! It worked!!
on one side of my wheel the bearings were brown in color and the other side the bearings are silver, so should i replace the dull color bearings? also what causes this to happen?
Front or rear? If rear, perhaps the brown ones were on the drive side? You should replace all worn bearings.
Great
Cheers!
Thanks
one of my cups on the front has completely collapsed 🤣
Your heading saids OVERHAUL, you did not overhaul it, you did not remove the cup and replace it that i s what we wanted to see, Your heading shoud say "check and regrease bike bearings !!!"
Clean that grease off the spokes!!! yuk.
Nope added rust protection 😛
Anyone who comes near my bike, motorcycle or car with a Crescent aka monkey wrench gets shown the door!
OK.
You should have removed the dust caps. Cleaning and greasing would have been easier.