How To Service Cup & Cone Wheel Bearings | Maintenance Monday
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
- Servicing your wheel bearings might seem like a daunting task, but cup and cone bearings could be easier than you think to service! Alex's wheels were in need of some TLC, so he took the opportunity to show you how to re-lube and service your wheel bearings.
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:22 - What Do You Need?
01:43 - Removing The Bearings
04:23 - Servicing The Bearings
08:38 - Reassembling The Freehub
12:17 - The Front Wheel
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Do you service your own wheels? Let us know in the comments!👇
I build and service my own wheels. Cartridge bearings need less service, but Rear track hubs are tricky. The axle Nuts can tighten the preload if the locknuts aren't very tight. It's not always obvious this has happened until it's too late!
Yes, that's why I like Fulcrum wheels 😊
Of course, they are part of my selfserviced bike. Only truing I leave with a professionnal, he is much better than I at that.
Yep, I just now service my rear hub because 2 of 4 bearing started squeaking yesterday so replacement them all
Plus i add extra marine grease on the bearing because the weather here is unpredictable
Bio grease not intended for bearings, it is too viscous, dries out and has an abrasive. you can only use it in very slow bearings such as in headset
Nice video, and a great way for people to take the next step in doing their own maintenance. Couple of thoughts:
1- Getting the tightness/free play of the cone correct after doing the locknut back up is the hardest part. Usually takes several tries, at least for me.
2- Once you've got it apart, go ahead and remove the bearings as well. That way you can look at everything in there.
3- GCN can't say this for liability reasons, but the best tool to put grease back into the bearings is your finger. Smoosh it all in there.
4- When you take yours apart, you may find that there is no bearing retainer, and the bearings can fall out. The cloth helps to catch them. On some wheels, the balls may be different sizes on each side, so watch for that as well.
Thanks, Alex!!
Good tips! I would add: magnet plate holds the balls perfectly and you wont use them.
Second: i know gcn is sponsored by muc off, but that grease is far not the best, i recommend such thing as premium grease from shimano
How about a Beginner’s Maintenance Monthly, once a month show, with Harriet doing the hands-on with guidance from Alex, and showing how to avoid and fix common mistakes? The mechanics at my LBS let me upgrade from Ultegra to Dura-Ace, and it was a great learning experience. They let me mess up, especially with the internal wiring, and then taught me many tricks on how to fix it.
Post videos
Tips :
- Take the bearings out to inspect the races. Should be free of pitting or excessive wear and should feel smooth under your finger.
- Don't put disc brake cleaner if you can't take the freehub out (happens often on older/lower end wheels)
I have used cup and cone bearings since the 70's. I know them well and find them easy to clean, lube and set up. They are super cheap to maintain.
my bearings and cones have pits in them, how do I find replacements for my hub?
Had never attempted it before always thought there was some black magic in there. Thanks Alex you’ve proved it’s accessible and possible.
I'd say my LBS love when there's a new GCN tech maintenence video out because they know for a fact, that I will be in shortly after because I've tried to do something featured 😂
I've been subscribed for quite awhile now. I watch, view, and like (as long as I remember) each and every video. Have I ever done a repair like this? No, do I ever intend to? No. But I'm glad to support my favorite channel. Keep it up GCN!
One of the first reasons that brought me to GCN is the how-to videos. Alex is a fantastic teacher!
Yes I do like cup & cone bearings for their easy servicing & longevity. I would have removed the balls when servicing them. If you don't want to disturb the seals, then use tweezers to pick out the balls & then you can clean & inspect the race properly 🙂
they where in a cage so kinda hard to do. I would say remove the cap and still remove all bearings to check the surface.
The first time I did this was on my old Carrera after a few years of use. The ball bearings weren't housed as well as the ones in this video, quite a few tried to escape. Luckily I tracked them all down and popped them back into place and the new grease held them in place long enough to finish the job 👍
No,
Replace the balls - they cost almost nothing and it's almost impossible to tell if they are perfect.
This is such a poor video from gcn.
Excellent Demonstration Brother 😎✌️
I keep a magnetic parts bowl (just a cheap one from Harbor Freight) under the hub when I service bearings. If anything falls out they stick in the bowl.
Cup&Cone FTW
Cup and cone bearings are great. They are super robust and the seals have vastly improved since the 90s. Would be interesting to look into one of the fancy ceramic ones by Campagnolo. I guess you have to be careful with them.
And as a Clydesdale I appreciate that cup and cone bearings appear to have a greater tolerance to axle flex than cartridge bearings so last a lot longer between services for me. In particular my old PowerTap rear wheel needed new cartridge bearings approximately every six months.
I remember doing this to hubs in the 90's when i was 17. Not as well secured as these. Then taking apart a shimano ex300 7 speed freehub, now thats a balancing trick, Two races of tiny bearings perched on a tiny shoulder. Grease was my friend. Seeking out tiny gains in my young racing career.
nice vid Alex
Thanks!
Had some wiggle in my rear wheel, (from me messing around) and was really hoping I'd find a guide on how to fix it up properly.
On thru-axle hubs no play on the bearings when reassembling may be correct? However if you are riding a bike with quick release skewers you should leave a little free play as the axle compresses when installing the wheel and without the free play the bearings end up over tight and wear much faster than they should. Unfortunately determining how much free play is necessary is a bit of a black art and comes down to experience. I remember years ago taking a wheel in to a bike shop to be trued and when I got it back the mechanic told me he had adjusted the axle to take out the free play. No amount of explanation would convince this guy that the free play was meant to be there and I left to adjust it at home?
Might explain why I had to replace the cartridge bearings on some new wheels after only 500 miles. The shop replaced the bearings, and I had to loosen the adjustment nut up a little at home so that they would spin freely.
That’s a great wheelset
Thanks for the great video and wished it came out earlier. Discovered water in my C36 front hub with bearings and race rusted and pitted after almost a year of use. Got a warranty replacement and after a few wet rides found water gets in probably via the thru axle and through a tiny hole (
I have cup and cone Shimano hubs and tried to service them once without the right tools, I failed miserably and had to walk them to the LBS for help. Fortunately if you have the right tools, they are cheap and quick to service so was a nice cheap fix from my local. Still undecided if I'll stick with cup and cone for my next wheelset.
How come you did not remove the bearings?
Seriously gcn??? Spend yesterday over 4h fighting with my pair. Why didn’t upload this earlier😂
Ah ... sorry 😬 You'll know for next time now!
I think an alignment mark on both the cone nuts would help, the same as a timing belt has on the belt cog and engine body. The trickiest part is getting the bearing play right, with the marks the factory setting could be repeated.
Assuming you have no wear on your bearings or races, that would work.... but you've always got SOME wear, so if it's time to service your bearings, they'll end up slightly farther in than before.
Shimano factory is notoriously too tight
@@joehart3826 and insufficient grease! I always pull apart brand new Shimano hubs and add marine grease and adjust preload. RS400 was the latest.
That's given me an idea!
I'm gunna start scratching/scoring in some alignment marks
Cool video Alex. Now I have all the wheels my bike needs but, if ZIPP were to put cup&cone bearings on say the 303firecrest. I've always admired those Shimano wheels Alex, I just prefer a 25mm internal rim width. Side note can new cup&cone hubs installed in my current wheel set?
Thanks for watching ken. You could swap the hubs by building new wheels around your desired rims, would you want to switch from sealed bearings to cup and cone 👀
Yes, been servicing my Campy hubs since the 70's. I prefer the 21st century Campy preload method much better than the method still used by Shimano of the jam nut against the cone nut. Also, did I miss servicing the ratchet mechanism for the free hub as should do that too at the same time as the wheel bearings? I presume for Shimano the free hub if needed new bearings new bearings could be pressed in rather than replacing the entire free hub?
Just wondering how often should this be done? Yearly or after so many KMs? I am hesitant to go that in depth and my knowledge stops at just changing a tire but I might just have a go at this. I do my own automobile bearings.
It's hard to say for sure as weather and distance will have more of an effect that time. You can feel the wheel when it gets gritty🔎
Some automotive bearings involve setting the preload. If you've done that, this is the exact same process.
I have these very wheels and I serviced them as instructed. There seems to be friction when free wheeling; the cranks are rotating when free wheeling and when you pedal backwards the chain gets quite a bit of slack. When I loosen the preload there is play when the wheel is mounted side-to-side.
I've used Parktool's high performance grease on these C50 wheels mounted on an Orbea Orca Aero.
Any thoughts on how I could remedy this situation ?
Man, these are my new wheels. No sealed bearings! Dreamers dream.
Hope this video helps 🙌
How often have you got to service the bearings? Is there a particular KM mark you should start servicing?
I definitely like cup & cone better. Used to be an inline speed skater and we had, and they still do, what are the newer style sealed bearings. We were constantly cleaning them. Of course speed skate wheels are closer to the ground but a little moisture, dirt etc. They were rough as can be . Even if ceramic. Ceramic complete was a little better but metal races with ceramic bearings wasn't any better .I also like the bigger bearings. Just an opinion.
Bearings with loose bearing balls still exist so if you're not sure, it's best to disassemble over a tub so that any rogue balls don't jump off the table, never to be seen again.
Is it the same hubs on C60 and C50? I gotta do this on my front C60 wheel, bit I have to get the right size wrench. Are 17 mm and 22 mm needed for the C60 front wheel as well? Thanks
Prefer the finger method of installing grease. !!!! Been doing it for eons.
Are you really a mechanic if you don't use your finger? I almost cried when he used the screwdriver. :)
Just out of curiosity, why didn't you hit the bearing pieces you removed with a bit of cleaner as well. I know they looked clean, but why not do it for extra assurance?
I have the Ultegra c60 version of these wheels. There is a little play on the body, I can slightly wiggle it. Is this normal? The wheels are 2.months old.
Hairdryer and disk cleaner..... Well ventilated room please!
I service my own stuff. Pick up a magnetic bowl somewhere cheap, hugely helpful to hold those small bits so they don't roll under your workbench. Also, your cat can't swipe something and leave you searching for DAYS trying to find it....
Not taking the loose bearings out to check diameter for wear? Trouble with modern mechanics it's change everything rather than get full life use
When I try to tighten the locking nut the cone rotates on the axle (and so introduces slack), so I carefully hold the other end of the axle in a vice
Yeah, I've encountered that. Pretty annoying, nice tip.
Good tip.
This is the answer I’ve been searching for!! Thanks
Not replacing the steel balls? (At least not verifying whether they're still round) Sin number one! Not verifying cone surfaces - sin number two.
Both leading to screwing up caps surfaces and trashing the precious DuraAce hub.
Exactly
Isnt the inner cones part of the hub itself (non replaceable)?
@@the.communist Yes and no. Inner cone is hardened steel race (or whatever alloy) and hub is aluminium. So it's most often (if not always), one pressed into the other. I do have old Ultegra WH-6700 wheels and yes - it looks like non replaceable - though I've already seen @YT how someone saved the front hub by bashing the cups out and squeezing in machined bearing. Lathe was still needed to increase the inner space tiny little bit.
Cup n cone, last years if you keep a bit of grease in there, whereas most cartridge bearing hubs seem to need attention after every few wet rides, and bearings are expensive.
18 euros per bearing to be exact
After degreasing, I rinse spray with Iso alcohol and dry with compressor air
My road bike I prefer cup and cone, but my commuter bike cartridge.
#ASKGCNTECH or Si Richardson: Hi gurus, my son is studying a degree (yr 2) in Sport Development & Performance - he keeps asking me to train using MAS. Please explain ….
First like and comment😇
Respect big G
I've never done this without the balls falling out...
Those bearings had a cage and seals which kept them in place. Old school had loose balls and no fancy rubber seal.🙂
Is that a hack or bodge putting grease on a screwdriver 🤔??
0:58 Uh, Alex, you said 'CLOTH'?
Cup and Cone gives me major anxiety so I'm glad I got a hub with sealed bearings and a ratchet system.
Have you ever tried cup and cone? 🔎
@@gcntech yeah my stock wheels on a cheap bike came with them but getting them to keep the right amount of preload was a nightmare. Also the pawls in the freehub kept breaking. Upgrading wheels are beneficial for more than just weight, robustness or aero reasons
my hub beacome reallu sticky after this. any tips moving forward? cheers
same here. using just a wet lube or any very light grease was one tip for me which made the bearings less draggy however did not solve the problem
12 months in service, and bearings are worn. Take them back for refund or exchange.
Maybe youve ridden in some precarious conditions?
Thats just luck, moving a rim to one side and no pesky bearings fall out. My video would have got this far followed by two hours of looking for that one bearing that popped off for a look around. Before returning to grease and rebuild.
Crap, more tools.
Why not talk about how cup and cone bearings costs you watts. All the time talking about weight, and aerodynamics, but not a word about how cup and cone bearings should be left in the 1800's?
Hey Jim, this isn't a video about those topics, it's showing how they can be serviced with relative ease. Maybe a deep dive into bearings could be something in the future. Are you not a fan of serviceable parts or would you rather just throw away and replace with new?
Cup and cone are a great option, Still works for Ineos 👀
*Sealed cartidge bearings are cup and cone systems too...*
It's the other way around, ball bearing hubs are a lot lot smoother than sealed bearings.
@@GCNalex I do like servicing parts rather than throwing things out. I am just amazed that in the bicycling industry cup & cone bearings are still a thing. I mean think of it, new carbon rims, all that tech, and then just throwing away watts through all speed ranges because you got a bearing assembly that was cutting edge more than 250 years ago. Just shocking.
Cup & cone on dura_ace seems like robbery, not very modern
I wouldn’t service anything myself. My mechanic knows better
Give it a go! The mechanic is always there to help out 😂