So I've had a 19.5 nobo for a couple of years and wondered what truly was behind that decal in the bathroom! I'm got more than the average bear on solar experience but I just didn't know what I would find once I cut a hole in there. The fact that you looked in there from the other hole before you cut it was a smart move, thanks!
Thanks for watching! You're most welcome. The fact that the dealer that sold it to me couldn't even explain it to me sucked. I'm happy the video helped!
We are picking up our NoBo 19.6 a week from Wednesday. This is helpful. The salesman told me the sticker is the cutout template for the Go Power control panel. Good idea to put the panels on the roof rack. THX
2020 NO BO 19.5 runs a single red/white line from the roof connector to the battery. I took a leap of faith and cut into it. Tested the voltage and saw it was live. Plugged in the panels after that. Overall, the wiring within the wall panel is taped up into a single mass indistinguishable spaghetti.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video. You are going to need to install at least 2 more panels. 100 watts does not cut it, especially in poor weather. Looking forward to any future solar upgrade videos!
Your very welcome. I added a second panel. I was able to run the refrigerator all day long. The fridge did put a big drain overnight so I would shut it off at night. I also added a second battery. Good luck
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Do you think I can add different kind of batteries? Currently I only have a factory setting flooded type battery, I have another AGM battery before I purchased this trailer. Can I add that kind of battery? The system only allows 12v , do you think if 2 batteries become 24v will be ok? Thanks for your help!
Hey, so you can add another battery. Unless your going full time off grid, regular flooded batteries will work, and they are cheaper. Don’t mix them. I did not connect my inverter to the trailers 110 circuit. I have one 110 volt plug I put in dedicated to the inverter. I also have a remote on/off switch to turn the inverter on and off. All items I found on Amazon.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I was seriously considering the NOBO line but seeing the lack of workmanship and attention to detail starting at about 2:40 is a game changer. I'll spend a litttle more money on something else. It's terrible what Manufacturers charge and to see over stressed wood, split and broken. There's no way whoever worked that section didn't know that's sub STANDARD work. Good luck to you in the future.
Steve, if I knew then what I know now my decision would be different. Most of my issues, I have resolved with no help from the dealer. I'm am now dealing with a problem with the trailer brakes not working. I took it in, dealer said the adjusted them still no brakes. Blamed it on my 2015 f150 ha! It's not my truck, I did a brake adjustment myself and now they work pretty sad for a 6 month old trailer. Good luck in your search
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Thanks for taking the time to respond. If I were you, I'd be blasting the Manufacturer and the Dealer. Not hard filing a complaint with the Attorney General and the Better Business Bureau. Don't let them get away with it. Remember the "Squeaky Wheel Gets The Grease"😉Good luck to you and yours.
Hey Buddy Awesome Vid, i just bought a 16.4 Nobo.. i want to add Solar just like you did... i added a second Interstate Battery upon purchase & i was told not to run the fridge or things in the outlets as it would drain the batteries quick. Would the Solar help with that.. sorry for the ignorant question, im new to all of this.
The fridge does draw alot of power. The two battires helps. If you did not run solar you might get half day on the battires. I have ran everything on battires with Solar and two battires for at least 3 days ( sunny) stright . I have 2 100 watt panels. Hope this helps
Great video Mike. One questions, is the fuse for the system already in place? I have the 16.8 and I assume this "Wired for Solar" setup include running through the fuse box but not clear on that.
Good Job... When No Bo does the Solar Package install, they include a 1000 W inverter;forward under the bed. Have you seen any prep wires there?? Thanks Gene Ferris
Thank you and I have not seen the factory install. I put a 1100 watt inverter in the same place, and on the wall under the bed I put a outlet connected to the inverter and power switch. I found some wires going through the floor that I ran my inverter wires to the battery. I used a 30 fuse
Thanks. I was hoping that you would find AC wires that lead to the converter area! The converter used on the solar ready RV models should support adding an AC transfer relay. Gene
Are there any additional steps to this should you want to add on more solar panels to the roof or now can you just add the solar panels as you'd like to the set up you have created? Also, how do you like the travel trailer model? We are thinking of investing in one but so many different options! Thanks for making the video, it was awesome!
Hi Sasha, thank you for your comment. Just trying to help others out. To your question about adding panel's, you cand as many as you want, as long as you have space and something to mount them to. I would have room for one more panel if I didn't want the kayak rack. The trailers are great. I wish the quality control at the manufacturer was better. Happy camping.
Can you tell me more about what brackets you used and how you attached the panels to your rhino racks? Good video though. Helped me see what I need to do to get my 16.8 into solar.
Thank you. I knew nothing was out there, even the dealer could not help. All you need are these brackets from Amazon “Renogy Solar Panel Mounting Z Bracket Mount Supporting for RV, Roof, Boat, set of 4 Units”
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors I have a 19.5 NoBo with the mounted rack bars, 2 100 W EcoTec panels and the "Z" brackets like those you mentioned . The picture does not show how you mounted the "Z" brackets? Please explain?
@@charlesschlough9097 wish I could attach a picture, but RUclips does not allow it in comments. You attach one side of the z-bracket to the solar panel, the other e d slides under your cross bars. You do not screw the bracket into the crossbar, just under it. You adjust your cross bars so the pans can side around. If this doesn't help let me know I'll do a quick video.
Great video Mike! Looking at purchasing a 19.5. Any chance you can post the part numbers for the panel you went with and the controller? I'll have to watch again and follow more closely the connections to the battery. From what I've seen commented here, will need two panels at a minimum.
The panel ECO-WORTHY 120 Watts 12 Volts Solar Starter Kit: 120W Monocrysta... www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJH9Z6S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_F.jiFbX5XR6NC The controller Zamp Solar 30-Amp Solar Charge Controller, Monitor, Regulate and... www.amazon.com/dp/B00T36XBKI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_BbkiFb700JA2M
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors This is great! I'm sure many that will view your video will find this information useful. Now all I have to do is convince the Boss on purchasing the RV!
Hey Mike. Excellent video! Question...im thinking of a nobo 19.3. You mentioned workmanship. If you did it over again, would you buy this unit again? Or what else would you consider?
Hey bill, I guess you get what you pay for. I dont think workmanship is as bad as the quality control. I was able to fix everything that needed attention. Dealer was no help. So.. if your open minded and know how to use some simple hand tools you will be good. I absolutely love the trailer.
Be prepared to redo many of the factory run installation. I new this going into my 16.8 when I bought her all good now. Check the bed mattress I had a defective bed! Replace base molding with aluminum. All the trim is cheep and pined gun crazy tear out and replace!!
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Regarding the connection from the panel to the interface on the roof where you checked for tone, is this a fairly standard plug and play connection?
Thank you for watching. I connected the toner (normally used on networks) to one of the two connections on the roof. My toner had an alligator clip. Once I turn on the toner I could search for the tone inside the trailer. My problem was I had a bundle of wires inside and I was pretty sure the one I was looking for was in the bundle, just didn't know which one it was. Have you ever used a toner?
No. The panel was not connected to the batteries. I had no wiring diagram, so i needed to figure out what wire was what, before connecting power. Thank you for the question
You mount the bracket to the panel the other end slides under the cross bar. You may need to adjust the spacing og the Rhino rick to fit the z bracket in snug. Hope this helps
Hi, Michael, How can I install the inverter into break box? Which location installed you recommend? It seems nowhere to sit in the rear area.I have a 3000w inverter, do you think its match this trailer? What battery and how much panel you recommend for this setting?Thanks!
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Hi, Thanks for reply, Where you found the red black battery wire under bad? Do I need to cut a hole of the floor to pull out that battery wires? How can you connect into the whole AC outlets system ? What color of the wire I need to connect under the bed? I just found white and yellow wires up the storage door edge . Sorry to ask too many stupid questions,I’m quite newbie for this electricity’s stuff. I will be very appreciated if you can send me some details about this process or make another video for this stuff. I think it must be attracted many many viewers like me. Thanks!
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors May I know how can you connect the microwave oven with the inverter? Because the microwave outputs is inside the back of microwave.
Super easy. One end attaches to the back of the panel. The other end slides under to the rack. The end that slides under the rack, is not screwed to the rack. The cross bars need to be spaced so the bracks are snug. Hope this helps
OK, at the MOST you can have 7 feet x 15 feet of solar panels on the roof. That's 105 sq. ft. The Sankyo newest military/outer space grade solar panels produce 8 watts per sq. ft. in clear, bright sunshine at close to 12 volts, not enough to keep a lead-acid battery "topped-up" without a boost box which will cost you about 20% of the 860 watts POSSIBLE, so 650 watts on a mean solar day (average year-'round) will be less than 4 Kwatt hours. Owning a tiny RV trailer (18 foot) that I've replaced every light with leds means camping "primative", just running a laptop 3 hours a night and recharging a cell phone (4 hours per night) eats .8 KwH daily, and I've not accounted for a satellite WiFi, and if you need the heater, the fan eats about 3 KwH out of the battery. You ain't got enough juice to keep a "12 volt" deep cycle charged. Water pump and A/C or fridge can't run on battery and stay charged. Those Sankyo panels cost $220 a sq. ft. plus the boost box and charging regulator. It doesn't make sense (or cents) to me to bother. Gonna climb up on the roof daily and clean the panels? Just travel dust reduces the output 50%. Sure you can do it, but WHY???
I did not get as detailed as you just did. On a sunny day with only the refrigerator on, nothing else, i can maintain the batterys (2). I change the refrigerator over to gas at night. I use maybe one led light.
I have the wires coming in from the solar plug on top of the traier and from the battery on the trailer. So, they are threaded through one hole. Yellow and brown. I can determine which ones hot ( probably brown one). But dont I have to know which ones go to proper contact on my controller. Sorry so long. New at it.
Color of wires can be tricky in these units. You need to isolate the battery from the solar panels. In my video I used a toner to tone out the wires. So you need to use a multimeter. Cover the panels with a blanket so you will be able to identify the battery wires, mark the battery + - . That leaves the other two wires, which I would assume they are to the panels. Uncover the panel now you can check the other wires for polarity. I hope this helps
Thankyou again, Michael. Prob take to my rv shop. Really dont think I'll be able to determine pos and neg wires to go to batt from ones coming from the panel plug-in on top of trailer. I mean its just a rolled up coil that you cut and wire the charge controller in line. Thanx again.
So I've had a 19.5 nobo for a couple of years and wondered what truly was behind that decal in the bathroom! I'm got more than the average bear on solar experience but I just didn't know what I would find once I cut a hole in there. The fact that you looked in there from the other hole before you cut it was a smart move, thanks!
Thanks for watching! You're most welcome. The fact that the dealer that sold it to me couldn't even explain it to me sucked. I'm happy the video helped!
I purchased a NOBO 19.6 and was wanting to add 30 amp solar panels. Glad you posted this. Now I can add my own pretty easy. Thanks so much!
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching!
We are picking up our NoBo 19.6 a week from Wednesday. This is helpful. The salesman told me the sticker is the cutout template for the Go Power control panel. Good idea to put the panels on the roof rack. THX
Hope it helps, thanks for watching!
We have the 16.8 and have two panels ready to install so this is SOO helpful. Thanks a bunch!
Your very welcome welcome. Thanks for watching!
Did you do the install?
Thanks. I've got a NO BO 19.5 and this helps clear up the solar connection questions.
Glad it helped did you do it yet?
Not yet, just running a solar panel and charge regulator directly to the battery.
2020 NO BO 19.5 runs a single red/white line from the roof connector to the battery. I took a leap of faith and cut into it. Tested the voltage and saw it was live. Plugged in the panels after that. Overall, the wiring within the wall panel is taped up into a single mass indistinguishable spaghetti.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video.
You are going to need to install at least 2 more panels.
100 watts does not cut it, especially in poor weather.
Looking forward to any future solar upgrade videos!
Your very welcome. I added a second panel. I was able to run the refrigerator all day long. The fridge did put a big drain overnight so I would shut it off at night. I also added a second battery. Good luck
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Do you think I can add different kind of batteries? Currently I only have a factory setting flooded type battery, I have another AGM battery before I purchased this trailer. Can I add that kind of battery? The system only allows 12v , do you think if 2 batteries become 24v will be ok? Thanks for your help!
Hey, so you can add another battery. Unless your going full time off grid, regular flooded batteries will work, and they are cheaper. Don’t mix them. I did not connect my inverter to the trailers 110 circuit. I have one 110 volt plug I put in dedicated to the inverter. I also have a remote on/off switch to turn the inverter on and off. All items I found on Amazon.
Thank you. Very informative.
Thank you for watching
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I was seriously considering the NOBO line but seeing the lack of workmanship and attention to detail starting at about 2:40 is a game changer. I'll spend a litttle more money on something else. It's terrible what Manufacturers charge and to see over stressed wood, split and broken. There's no way whoever worked that section didn't know that's sub STANDARD work. Good luck to you in the future.
Steve, if I knew then what I know now my decision would be different. Most of my issues, I have resolved with no help from the dealer. I'm am now dealing with a problem with the trailer brakes not working. I took it in, dealer said the adjusted them still no brakes. Blamed it on my 2015 f150 ha! It's not my truck, I did a brake adjustment myself and now they work pretty sad for a 6 month old trailer. Good luck in your search
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Thanks for taking the time to respond. If I were you, I'd be blasting the Manufacturer and the Dealer. Not hard filing a complaint with the Attorney General and the Better Business Bureau. Don't let them get away with it. Remember the "Squeaky Wheel Gets The Grease"😉Good luck to you and yours.
SPRING project well done!!!
Thank you sir
Hey Buddy Awesome Vid, i just bought a 16.4 Nobo.. i want to add Solar just like you did... i added a second Interstate Battery upon purchase & i was told not to run the fridge or things in the outlets as it would drain the batteries quick. Would the Solar help with that.. sorry for the ignorant question, im new to all of this.
The fridge does draw alot of power. The two battires helps. If you did not run solar you might get half day on the battires. I have ran everything on battires with Solar and two battires for at least 3 days ( sunny) stright . I have 2 100 watt panels. Hope this helps
Great video Mike. One questions, is the fuse for the system already in place? I have the 16.8 and I assume this "Wired for Solar" setup include running through the fuse box but not clear on that.
Thanks for watching, there is no fuse I could find. I put a 30 amp in-line fuse on the inside of the wall near the controller
Good Job... When No Bo does the Solar Package install, they include a 1000 W inverter;forward under the bed. Have you seen any prep wires there?? Thanks Gene Ferris
Thank you and I have not seen the factory install. I put a 1100 watt inverter in the same place, and on the wall under the bed I put a outlet connected to the inverter and power switch. I found some wires going through the floor that I ran my inverter wires to the battery. I used a 30 fuse
Thanks.
I was hoping that you would find AC wires that lead to the converter area! The converter used on the solar ready RV models should support adding an AC transfer relay.
Gene
Are there any additional steps to this should you want to add on more solar panels to the roof or now can you just add the solar panels as you'd like to the set up you have created? Also, how do you like the travel trailer model? We are thinking of investing in one but so many different options! Thanks for making the video, it was awesome!
Hi Sasha, thank you for your comment. Just trying to help others out. To your question about adding panel's, you cand as many as you want, as long as you have space and something to mount them to. I would have room for one more panel if I didn't want the kayak rack. The trailers are great. I wish the quality control at the manufacturer was better. Happy camping.
I own a NoBo 16.6 with the solar ready setup. No nothing about solar installation. What all do I need to buy to have solar power on mine? Thanks Karen
do you also need a inverter with the charge controller? Or is the inverter already installed on the trailer? thanks
Only need it if you want 120 volts
Can you tell me more about what brackets you used and how you attached the panels to your rhino racks? Good video though. Helped me see what I need to do to get my 16.8 into solar.
Thank you. I knew nothing was out there, even the dealer could not help. All you need are these brackets from Amazon “Renogy Solar Panel Mounting Z Bracket Mount Supporting for RV, Roof, Boat, set of 4 Units”
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors I have a 19.5 NoBo with the mounted rack bars, 2 100 W EcoTec panels and the "Z" brackets like those you mentioned . The picture does not show how you mounted the "Z" brackets? Please explain?
@@charlesschlough9097 wish I could attach a picture, but RUclips does not allow it in comments.
You attach one side of the z-bracket to the solar panel, the other e d slides under your cross bars. You do not screw the bracket into the crossbar, just under it. You adjust your cross bars so the pans can side around. If this doesn't help let me know I'll do a quick video.
Great video Mike! Looking at purchasing a 19.5. Any chance you can post the part numbers for the panel you went with and the controller? I'll have to watch again and follow more closely the connections to the battery. From what I've seen commented here, will need two panels at a minimum.
The panel
ECO-WORTHY 120 Watts 12 Volts Solar Starter Kit: 120W Monocrysta... www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJH9Z6S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_F.jiFbX5XR6NC
The controller
Zamp Solar 30-Amp Solar Charge Controller, Monitor, Regulate and... www.amazon.com/dp/B00T36XBKI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_BbkiFb700JA2M
Good luck and thank you
Last thing, 200 watts should do it. I can run my fridge all day on battery and either turn it off at night or use gas at night
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors This is great! I'm sure many that will view your video will find this information useful. Now all I have to do is convince the Boss on purchasing the RV!
Good job
Thank you!
Thank you!
Hey Mike. Excellent video!
Question...im thinking of a nobo 19.3.
You mentioned workmanship. If you did it over again, would you buy this unit again? Or what else would you consider?
Hey bill, I guess you get what you pay for. I dont think workmanship is as bad as the quality control. I was able to fix everything that needed attention. Dealer was no help. So.. if your open minded and know how to use some simple hand tools you will be good. I absolutely love the trailer.
Be prepared to redo many of the factory run installation. I new this going into my 16.8 when I bought her all good now. Check the bed mattress I had a defective bed! Replace base molding with aluminum. All the trim is cheep and pined gun crazy tear out and replace!!
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Regarding the connection from the panel to the interface on the roof where you checked for tone, is this a fairly standard plug and play connection?
Thank you for watching. I connected the toner (normally used on networks) to one of the two connections on the roof. My toner had an alligator clip. Once I turn on the toner I could search for the tone inside the trailer. My problem was I had a bundle of wires inside and I was pretty sure the one I was looking for was in the bundle, just didn't know which one it was. Have you ever used a toner?
Couldn’t you have just checked for power from the battery rather than toner ?
No. The panel was not connected to the batteries. I had no wiring diagram, so i needed to figure out what wire was what, before connecting power. Thank you for the question
Nice video, I have a Renogy kit I am about to install. How did you secure the panel to the roof rack?
I have a roof rack and I used a clamps. In the video I have a pretty good shot of them. Thanks for watching!!
And thanx for your vid!
Can you explain how to attach the panel to the rhino rack?
You mount the bracket to the panel the other end slides under the cross bar. You may need to adjust the spacing og the Rhino rick to fit the z bracket in snug. Hope this helps
Hi, Michael, How can I install the inverter into break box? Which location installed you recommend? It seems nowhere to sit in the rear area.I have a 3000w inverter, do you think its match this trailer? What battery and how much panel you recommend for this setting?Thanks!
I didn't attempt to hook it into the beaker box. Never opened it up. I put the inverter under the bed. I used a separate stand alone fuse
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Hi, Thanks for reply, Where you found the red black battery wire under bad? Do I need to cut a hole of the floor to pull out that battery wires? How can you connect into the whole AC outlets system ? What color of the wire I need to connect under the bed? I just found white and yellow wires up the storage door edge . Sorry to ask too many stupid questions,I’m quite newbie for this electricity’s stuff. I will be very appreciated if you can send me some details about this process or make another video for this stuff. I think it must be attracted many many viewers like me. Thanks!
www.amazon.com/Conference-Recessed-Desktop-Grommet-2-Outlet/dp/B071ZG9Q45/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_1_24?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071ZG9Q45&pd_rd_r=80ca1595-cd2b-4523-8714-aace8590177b&pd_rd_w=86apE&pd_rd_wg=nxGoh&pf_rd_p=ea85cb41-868b-4aee-9344-f4ee71f19400&pf_rd_r=F26TZGJ4123ZQ775AD4S&psc=1&refRID=F26TZGJ4123ZQ775AD4S
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors May I know how can you connect the microwave oven with the inverter? Because the microwave outputs is inside the back of microwave.
can you explain how to attach the z bracket to the rhino rack?
Super easy. One end attaches to the back of the panel. The other end slides under to the rack. The end that slides under the rack, is not screwed to the rack. The cross bars need to be spaced so the bracks are snug. Hope this helps
@@MikeAndTheGreatOutdoors Glad I read this. Was about to run some tapping screws today.
@Daniel Lucas Thanks for watching. I'm glad it helped!
Why do NOBOs have an underbelly membrane?
Its for insulation.
OK, at the MOST you can have 7 feet x 15 feet of solar panels on the roof. That's 105 sq. ft. The Sankyo newest military/outer space grade solar panels produce 8 watts per sq. ft. in clear, bright sunshine at close to 12 volts, not enough to keep a lead-acid battery "topped-up" without a boost box which will cost you about 20% of the 860 watts POSSIBLE, so 650 watts on a mean solar day (average year-'round) will be less than 4 Kwatt hours. Owning a tiny RV trailer (18 foot) that I've replaced every light with leds means camping "primative", just running a laptop 3 hours a night and recharging a cell phone (4 hours per night) eats .8 KwH daily, and I've not accounted for a satellite WiFi, and if you need the heater, the fan eats about 3 KwH out of the battery. You ain't got enough juice to keep a "12 volt" deep cycle charged. Water pump and A/C or fridge can't run on battery and stay charged. Those Sankyo panels cost $220 a sq. ft. plus the boost box and charging regulator. It doesn't make sense (or cents) to me to bother. Gonna climb up on the roof daily and clean the panels? Just travel dust reduces the output 50%. Sure you can do it, but WHY???
I did not get as detailed as you just did. On a sunny day with only the refrigerator on, nothing else, i can maintain the batterys (2). I change the refrigerator over to gas at night. I use maybe one led light.
Dimensions of the zamp charge cont you installed?
6.14 x 1.5 x 4.7 inch
Thanx again
I have the wires coming in from the solar plug on top of the traier and from the battery on the trailer. So, they are threaded through one hole. Yellow and brown. I can determine which ones hot ( probably brown one). But dont I have to know which ones go to proper contact on my controller. Sorry so long. New at it.
Color of wires can be tricky in these units. You need to isolate the battery from the solar panels. In my video I used a toner to tone out the wires. So you need to use a multimeter. Cover the panels with a blanket so you will be able to identify the battery wires, mark the battery + - . That leaves the other two wires, which I would assume they are to the panels. Uncover the panel now you can check the other wires for polarity. I hope this helps
Thankyou again, Michael. Prob take to my rv shop. Really dont think I'll be able to determine pos and neg wires to go to batt from ones coming from the panel plug-in on top of trailer. I mean its just a rolled up coil that you cut and wire the charge controller in line. Thanx again.
Thank you sooo much this i have 19.5 and was wondering if that's all i did or had to add othere things. Big help so much keep posting. Nobonation
Your welcome. I figured there would be some people that had the same questions I had.