I've managed to make mine work by spinning the white gear upwards towards the motor with a small screwdriver, through the tiny hole that is revealed after removing the small black rubber piece. I was holding the latch closed during the process - not sure if that matters though. Thanks for the video!
Yeah, that didn't occur to me but I take your point, it out it does seem a bit flimsy for the VW Golf ... but having said that, it's worked fine since 2004 so must be up-to-the-job ... they just probably didn't expect the rest of the car to outlive it :) I'm not sure if this was my problem though, although - seeing that the connections to this motor are based on pressure rather than being hard-wired - it could be that a disconnect happened here (be it dampness ... or time) which triggered the other 'jam'. Thanks for you comment, Seán
Is there a diagram of the contacts of the lock connector? I would like to measure with a voltmeter whether or not the signal comes to the pusher. I have adjusted the lock with your method! Thank you!
I haven't seen one if there are but if you can test one on another golf that is working normally you'd find out the normal voltage and compare ... there are enough of them out there :) I didn't get that technical, just started taking it apart until I found areas like worn or corroded contacts that might be causing the problem.
Hah! I suppose you can look at that in two ways Timothy ... needing the repairs in the first place or the fact that they last long enough to require repairs 'eventually' ... at least with the Golf anyway :) Seán
It could have been just a disconnection, after all, the motor is slipped into place so it connects by pressure and after time moisture gets in and sometimes causes a disconnection where there's not a soldered joint. Anyway, always try the easier option first and work up to the more difficult options. It's fairly straight forward to take apart anyway. All the best, Seán
Try the easiest first so try WD40 or similar oil into lock. This will help with both the electrical connection and any physical sticking of the mechanism. Also, pop off the plastic circle inside the boot , spray from here too, and check how this emergency opening point works, Seán
Opposite problem on my mk6 gti - hatch will not open even with the manual bypass. So trying to remove the lock with the door shut is very hard. cannot locate a torx wrench with a low enough profile so I will try the vice grip method!
Sounds like some physical problem inside the lock if it won't open with the plastic manual lever that you can access from inside the car(hidden behind plastic pop-off cover). If you have a long-nosed vice-grip try it too. All the best, Seán
hey buddy,my boot wouldn't lock so I drowned the latch in wd40 and the next day it would lock but now I can't unlock it.I checked the wires under the rubber gromit,I got a genuine boot lid handle from a different golf,I checked the fuse and all seemed ok .Should I try to get more wd 40 in the motor area of the boot latch? or is there a chance that little motor just burns out? thank you
Hello Den, as it stopped working and then worked again suggests that there's something disconnecting or catching rather than a burned-out motor - a couple of sharp taps while you try opening it is always worth a try before dismantling it ??, Seán
I've managed to make mine work by spinning the white gear upwards towards the motor with a small screwdriver, through the tiny hole that is revealed after removing the small black rubber piece. I was holding the latch closed during the process - not sure if that matters though. Thanks for the video!
now I know where those cheap dc motors are used besides toys... 👍 Thanks for sharing!
Yeah, that didn't occur to me but I take your point, it out it does seem a bit flimsy for the VW Golf ... but having said that, it's worked fine since 2004 so must be up-to-the-job ... they just probably didn't expect the rest of the car to outlive it :)
I'm not sure if this was my problem though, although - seeing that the connections to this motor are based on pressure rather than being hard-wired - it could be that a disconnect happened here (be it dampness ... or time) which triggered the other 'jam'.
Thanks for you comment,
Seán
Is there a diagram of the contacts of the lock connector? I would like to measure with a voltmeter whether or not the signal comes to the pusher. I have adjusted the lock with your method! Thank you!
I haven't seen one if there are but if you can test one on another golf that is working normally you'd find out the normal voltage and compare ... there are enough of them out there :) I didn't get that technical, just started taking it apart until I found areas like worn or corroded contacts that might be causing the problem.
is there any part in a german car that never requires repairs eventually?
Hah! I suppose you can look at that in two ways Timothy ... needing the repairs in the first place or the fact that they last long enough to require repairs 'eventually' ... at least with the Golf anyway :)
Seán
is there such part made by humans?
Great video are you saying if you just oil it might fix it ?
It could have been just a disconnection, after all, the motor is slipped into place so it connects by pressure and after time moisture gets in and sometimes causes a disconnection where there's not a soldered joint. Anyway, always try the easier option first and work up to the more difficult options. It's fairly straight forward to take apart anyway. All the best, Seán
I have the problem of unlocking, when it works when not, is it possible for everything from the contact to the motor not to unlock?
Try the easiest first so try WD40 or similar oil into lock. This will help with both the electrical connection and any physical sticking of the mechanism. Also, pop off the plastic circle inside the boot , spray from here too, and check how this emergency opening point works, Seán
@@keepitassimpleasyoucan145 I will try, and I will also check the power supply, that there is no imperfect contact on the electrical path
Opposite problem on my mk6 gti - hatch will not open even with the manual bypass. So trying to remove the lock with the door shut is very hard. cannot locate a torx wrench with a low enough profile so I will try the vice grip method!
Sounds like some physical problem inside the lock if it won't open with the plastic manual lever that you can access from inside the car(hidden behind plastic pop-off cover). If you have a long-nosed vice-grip try it too.
All the best,
Seán
I have the same problem! I tried to open it with the manual lock on the inside of the door and it broke. Any suggestions??
Thank you, my problem is that the microchip wont connect in locked position. Its missing a millimeter. Otherwise my car thinks the hatch is open.
what size bolts you used to bold it back up ?
Hello,
I used 6mm dia. but I would've used 5mm Gutter Bolts if I had them, because they are flatter head and bolt,
Seán
thanks for upload your video, very helpful. could you please tell me what size the 2 screws are, the big ones that were removed with the vise grip?
A T40 star-head fits it.
hey buddy,my boot wouldn't lock so I drowned the latch in wd40 and the next day it would lock but now I can't unlock it.I checked the wires under the rubber gromit,I got a genuine boot lid handle from a different golf,I checked the fuse and all seemed ok .Should I try to get more wd 40 in the motor area of the boot latch? or is there a chance that little motor just burns out?
thank you
Hello Den, as it stopped working and then worked again suggests that there's something disconnecting or catching rather than a burned-out motor - a couple of sharp taps while you try opening it is always worth a try before dismantling it ??, Seán
thanks