How to start weaving | How to weave for beginners
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Learn how to start a weaving. Before you start weaving here are a few tips to help you build a strong weaving base and plan how to finish you weaving before you even start your woven wall hanging. Time stamps below:
Sorry in advanced for the sound of the banging loom on the desk and the tape. Hopefully it does not bother anyone too much. Next time I will look out for those annoyances!
**The product links in the description are affiliate links. I receive a small commission when you use the links to make a purchase (at no extra cost to you). This helps support my channel!
Materials used: **
Yarn spacers: www.lovecrafts...
Wool yarn: www.lovecrafts...
Here are the time stamps of the important points of this video:
Creating a slip knot 1:30
Discussing the placement of the warp 2:18
Adding the slip knot to the loom 4:16
“Dressing the loom”, adding warp to the loom 5:10
Securing warp end for tightening 10:00
Warp end placement 10:35
Tape and tightening the warp talk 11:45
Similar painter's tape I use (check out on Amazon): amzn.to/3n2bbIP
Tightening the warp process “pulley system” 14:30
Importance of tension talk 16:58
Tie warp end with knot 18:10
Removing tape from loom 19:42
Pushing down the warp- organizing the warp 20:16
Creating a secured weaving base 20:55
WEAVING TIP #1 - Warp Spacers 21:02
Weaving problems- understanding warp spacer base 21:46
Reason 1 for using warp spacers - holds space between warp and nails 22:50
Warp waste- to secure the warp ends when you finish weaving 24:01
Reason 2 for using warp spacers - space out the warp 25:43
Warp Spacer: Row One
Adding warp spacers to the loom- row one 27:30
Tying warp spacers to the side of the loom 27:45 , 28:25
Measuring warp spacers 31:10
Warp Spacer: Row Two 32:35
Straighten out the warp 34:40
Tying warp spacers to the side of the loom 35:41
Straighten out the warp 36:50
Warp Spacer: Row Three 37:44
Straighten out the warp 39:45
Tying warp spacers to the side of the loom 40:00
Straightening out the warp spacers 41:08
WEAVING TIP #2 - Creating a Secure Base/ Design 42:53
Discussion 43:20
Example of secured weaving base 44:15
Twining 45:18
(Twining tutorial : • Twining : Weaving Tech... )
Plain Weave 52:10
(Plain weave tutorial: • Plain Weave Pattern | ... )
Base and structure discussion 53:10
Tutorial recap 54:53
Top of weaving discussion 55:50
WEAVING TIP #3 - Table Clamps
Similar table clamps I use (check out the various sizes on Amazon): amzn.to/32tpCfo
Online Weaving Classes: classes.fibersanddesign.com
As a beginner weaver, it is important to learn basic weaving techniques and develop these skills. The Side by Side Weaving ebook has beginner-friendly projects that teach how to use various weaving techniques at various warp spacing. Check out my weaving ebook for beginners : fibersanddesig...
Thank you so much for watching ! Please let me know in the comments if these techniques help you :)
I love the idea of art before the the form. I've spent years breaking the rules, just doing what I conceive no matter what others tell me of what and will not work. Not everything works out for sure, but I can always build on what doesn't. Love your vids!
This was an excellent video. You explain everything so well. Thank you so much.
Excellent! You are articulate, thorough and easy to understand! I took a weaving course over a year ago and the instructor did NONE of this! I love this method and plan to try this on my upcoming project. Thank you!
Please turn on the Cc feature so I can make better use of your video. Thanks so much.
Hi Ellen! Thank you for the feedback- I think it takes a few days for the automatic CC to process through YT. It should appear after its fully processed :) Thanks for watching !
@@EllenEmOHPea No worries, thanks for the feedback! Yes, I have a few videos lined up :) Thanks for watching!
47min mark is what I was looking for! Thanks
Total beginner this was brilliant
I liked this video a lot! You go into a lot of detail, and your teaching style is very nice!
I used a rubber band on each end, stretched across the nail heads to hold the warp in place while tightening, just an alternative.
If you use a heddle would you add the spacer before or after inserting the heddle underneath the strings?
Excellent video. You are a good teacher.
Thank you, I have just made my start 🥰 love it
12:18 - 12:42
Haha, unintentional ASMR :D
13:30 - 13:44
And here as well
Also, very useful video. I needed this kind of tutorial to start weaving again after few years long break :> Thank you
Wonderful tutorial!
This was wonderful. Thank you!
an excellent video; very clear thanks a lot
Just soo curious here.. I want to try. Thankk you for the videos :3
What do you have on the loom where the nails are besides tape? It looks like glue. Is it?
Hi Sally! Great question- yes, I put some hot glue over the loom nails. I had repurposed this frame into a frame loom- the two sides that I attached the nails to weakened. Therefore, I added some hot glue so that the nails would not loosen.
Alternatively, I could have attached the nails in a chevron pattern to avoid the wood from cracking- but I like the nails to be in a straight row, so I took the chance adding them in a row…unfortunately the wood cracked, but I will still use it :) Hope this answers your question!
What do I do to the 3 rows of plain weave I tied to the frame when I’m finished? Do u untie and tie it to the warp? Or do u take them out completely? I don’t think that would make sense lol
Great question! You just cut off the ends close to the frame sides. Then once you cut the weaving off the loom you can easily pull those three rows off. That row of twining will help keep the first rows of weaving in place. After secure the warp ends inside the weaving with a tapestry needle. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have further questions! :)
@@fibersanddesignweaving I love how you answer every question! That dedication is genuinely incredible. Thank you.
Can you make dishcloths with cotton yarn on this loom?
Thank you 💐 to make a beginning This helped .
ok that's what I thought you were using the tape for ... IF you put the nails in on a slant pointing away from the work area ... the tension will keep the threads on the frame because the nails will guide it down to the frame all the time and no tape will be needed ... as for drilling the pilot holes for the nails a set of angle blocks as wide as the frame would allow you you to drill a similar angle for each nail ... so an angle block of 60degrees will give you a 30 degree from the frame nail ... a 45 degree angle will of course be 45 degrees and a 30 degree angle will give a 60 degree nail to the frame ...
.
or you could use 1.4 round molding with the bevel going inwards and drill a side straight in and then nail THAT to your top and bottom and get a permanent 45 degree nail angle and the back corner of the moulding will support your base threads and the nails will keep it firm against that edge ... no tape needed ... you could also change those pieces out for a higher thread count weaving project or lower one ... and still have 3 different angles of nails for the highest thread count possible all keeping the threads even along the back edge of the moulding ... and of course that would need finishing nails or pins ... or a combination of standard nails at 45 degrees and finishing nails at 90 and pins at -45 degrees ... then you have the strong nails with a 30 degree angle .. the finishing nails with a 45 degree and the pins with a 60 degree angle and all three sets will be able to hold about the same high tension for a very high thread count ...
.
IF yuo only put a nail every inch INTO the base frame and the rest JUST into the moulding then you only have to loosen the nails that go into the frame to change this support ... I would suggest a through nail every 4 inches ... with a nail on the very ends NOT used for the base thread dressing to keep it all aligned and in place ... the added BONUS of the moulding would mean you have finger space between the frame and the threads to do STUFF and be able to go full width of the frame without any concerns ... since the 1/4 round moulding is 1 inch a side it would leave a 1/2 inch gap to get in under everything
.
btw of you cant find the moulding a 1 inch square piece cut lengthwise on the diagonal will give you the triangle shape and lots of firm wood to secure it to the frame with
ok so your warp spacers become redundant once you have your twinning in ... so a 2 inch wide 1/8th inch thick piece of smooth wood like a paint stir stick would also work to beat your weaving against and allow you to twine a few rows still .. the only true concern with the stick is that the sides that press back against the bottom f the frame and that you press the woven material down onto are as parallel as possible ... then once you finish your pattern you just ull the stick out and tie off your base threads against your twined end ... on a treddle loom that bar is called the waster bar .. it actually sets your waste for finishing and gives a good solid edge to beat your weave against ... at least that's what I have always been told it is called ...
❤❤❤❤
"i use a fork coz i have one"
NOT very helpful try better to help