Transmission Fluid Change vs Flush - Pros, Cons, Costs
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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Transmission Flush vs Change - learn more about the advantages of these two services as well as when it is appropriate to perform each of them by watching the video.
Timecode:
00:00:00 - Short intro
00:00:00 - Transmission Fluid Change
00:00:00 - Transmission Fluid Flush
00:00:00 - Should You Flush Transmission Fluid If It’s Never Been Changed?
00:00:00 - What Can Happen If You Never Change Transmission Fluid?
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I am loving how your videos average around 4 minutes and you get straight to the point and answer the questions. Most youtube videos drag out everything for 10 minutes of your time for more advertising.
Algorithm hoe RUclipsrs
I worked in the parts dept at a Honda dealership for 12 years. I used to tell people that ATF is the hardest work5fluid in the car. It has to work as lubrication, a hydraulic fluid, and a coolant.
You could safely do a " passive flush " . This inolves disconnecting the two hoses from the transmission cooler . Engine running at idle , Suction hose into container with new fluid and other hose into a container to catch all the old fluid being forced out . These are several RUclips channels that show the exact procedure
That’s real talk right there.
Please elaborate if you don't mind
@@whatitisnt. RUclips Channel - 1 Road
Doing This Will Destroy Your Transmission !- Why You Should Never Flush Your Transmission Fluid ! These videos will show the procedure of flushing out your transmission , not using a flush machine . This way it is done by the normal pressure in your transmission . I have seen other videos showing close enough of how they did it .
@@peterrudy9207 so basically flushing DIY is better than flushing at the shop since the shop uses "dirty hoses" that might already have debris? Also is the method you provided a 100% flush including the torque converter?
If you could watch these videos I mentioned .
Daily driver:
Drain and refill once a year. Every years, never have an issue.
Conversation settled.
If I employ a drain and fill method (usually get 50% each time) when is a good time to do the filter?
Change the filter and clean the pan at the first drain and fill. If your vehicle does not have a drain plug purchase a new pan with a drain. In theory for most vehicles this would be the last time one would need to change the filter.
@@danielbruneau2222 Thank you.
Really?
I just drain and fill my transmission every 20 to 30 thousand miles but I have changed the filter once. With a 157,000 miles my car transmission is shifting smoothly and strong.
I have a 2010 Ford Escape with 129k miles on it. Transmission shop sampled the fluid and said it's safe to flush because my transmission is working well and there's not a bunch of metal in the fluid. The fluid isn't black, but it's starting to darken. They're charging $270 here in Phoenix, AZ.
I would trust the shop. Go ahead and do it!
I have a 2018 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. @85K miles. I think I just paid for an extra service. Thoughts?
Low or high miles, I would never flush my transmission.
Just let drain the old transmission fluid and replace it with recommended new one, including filter.
@@LarryVanzeven with low mileage? Why???
@@LarryVanzwhat qbout the fluid behind torque converter?
Thx Max! I read your comments and I am all.. the wiser prior to walking in to getting a free test
😂 $100-250 I had a 2008 tundra and Toyota wanted to charge me almost $1200 to replace fluid and filter.
Never go to the dealer 😂
A full flush on a tacoma 2015 is 300+tx he is right in price
That’s cause of the work n parts to drop pan replace filter ect as well as refill. A plain flush is 3-400
@@JFEnterprizeNope. Nissan charged me to do a flush + filter for $380. The filter is not that expensive to be charging people north of $1,000.
I bought a 2009 Chevy Traverse from someone Aug2021, not sure what they did or didn't do as far as Maintenance is concerned. But, the next morning after bringing in home, the Check Engine light came on and I instantly panicked. The Dash read (low oil pressure turn off engine) imagine my fright. The Truck had plenty of Oil so no one would do an Oil change saying the levels were good and that wasn't the problem. So FINALLY, I found somewhere that would change it and guess what... The Oil was like sludge, just thick and black on the bottom of the Pan, haven't had that problem since with kept up Oil Changes. Now, my truck lost power a couple Wks ago, now... Every time I get an oil change I ask are my other fluids good, the guy always says YES but that day when I got the Truck towed home I had someone check a couple days later and there was NO FLUID. I'm wondering if that is the actually problem? I don't know if the Transmission Fluid has been changed, if its been serviced etc. I did a code reader because the light came on as soon as it lost power and they read TCM(trans control module). Imagine my panic AGAIN. Wondering if I should do a service or flush??? Please help, thank you.
Hopefully you got the problem fixed by now. I would suggest that any GM vehicle you purchase, switch the orange coolant over to green coolant. The green coolant helps your motor last longer.
Pros and cons to both.
Pros: Flush, gets all the fluid out, (nearly all anyway), so you have pristine new fluid.
Pan drop/filter: You get a new filter. You get to look at what's on the magnet...although this only matters if you know what you're looking at, so if you're a DIY in your driveway or some lube shop is doing it, that part isn't relevant.
Cons: Flush doesn't change the filter. May or may not matter, depending on the condition of the trans in the first place.
Pan drop leaves 3/4 of the old, dirty fluid in it. Plus you run the risk of a gasket leak.
Doing both is the best way, but may be cost prohibitive.
My Honda dealer only does drain and fill. Just had it done, 3rd time, 138,000 miles. $99.
Shop around for transmission service. My dealership that I bought my car from charges 650 while the main car company that made it costs 360.
Remove hoze at radiator
And run hoze to bucket.
Start engine then to neutral.
It will pump out the entire system.
Then start to blow air.
Turn off, refill, bring to operating temp, check level.
Done.
That was an amazing video. I appreciate you so much. Thank you.
Some mechanics would say don't even drain the fluid if you went a long time without transmission service. Car Care Nut falls in that category. I have two vehicles, one ford and one toyota with over 200k miles that haven't been serviced since around 100k miles and i drained fluid in both and added compatible Walmart universal fluid to both and no problems whatsoever. I would be more hesitant about a flush, but i think a drain and refill is going to be needed to extend the life of the transmission
Transmission flushes should be part of regular service. Fluid changes only get about 20% of the fluid out.
No!!! Derp a derp a flush will destroy your transmission by forcing the fluid at super high pressures which will blow out all the seals and destroy the transmission,derp a derp. People have all these wild ideas about what a transmission flush does. You are one of the few that understand what they do.
Very informative
The flush thing is just stupid. Change the fluid and filter. Drive around town. Drop the oil again and fill up. If you want it 99% perfect. Drop the fluid again and fill up. Btw most transmission problems comes from low fluid or a clogged trans filter The key to a succsessful trans job is to have the filter changed and enough fluid in the trans. Your trans is like an engine. It uses oil. Allways fill more then you dropped and always fill the trans when hot and not cold. Cold fill will give you the wrong result. Drive around and fill up drive around and fill up
That’s pretty damn smart
@@AlexVela-t3r yeah worked for all three cars we have home with auto trans a5s310z and a5s325z zf boxes (5hp18 and 5hp19)
@@AlexVela-t3r dextron 3 is the best fluid. Be it syntetic or semi syntetic oil
I had 175,000 miles on a 2010 civic. Changed fluid but not the filter. No problems.
@@toddsmith1617 dude the filter is where the box sucks up the fluid and make oil pressure. If its clogged the box has no oil pressure to the converter. Your trans box wont last long before you have problems. Oil and filter everytime!
I think there is confusion between the term "flush" and "change." Many people consider a "full capacity exchange" a "flush." That's confusing. More accurately, a "flush" involves forcing fluid under external pressure through the transmission. It's possible to perform a full fluid change without external pressure, just a more complete "change" by tapping the line at the cooler. This video somewhat describes that difference between even a complete "change" and a power "flush."
It's also possible to change as more than 90 percent of fluid with 3 or 4 "drain and fills" at the pan, allowing 50-100 miles of driving between each to mix the new fluid with the old.
A power flush is never, ever a good idea. It never has better results than gentle draining and filling, and often causes worse results.
"Flush" is a misnomer. It really should be just called "fluid exchange", because that's all it does. "Flush" implies that somehow it's pressurized and cleaned out that way. It's not. A machine just pumps new fluid into the pan while the transmission's own pump pumps the old fluid into the machine's tank for disposal. It's not bad in any way at all.
There's really no such thing as a "power flush". That's just advertising. A "power flush" machine just uses a small 12v pump to pump the fluid back into the pan, rather than using the transmission's own pump to "push" on the new fluid and get it out of the machine that way.
There is no "pressure" applied to the trans that comes even close to what the transmission's own pump puts on it.
What do you consider high mileage? I have 120000 on my 2009 Toyota Highlander, and I'm trying to decide whether to get a drain and fill at the dealer.
Go another 120000 and it will be "high mileage". For now - simple change would be enough.
@MaxTheCarGuy,, I've been experiencing some transmission engaging delay a bit. Thank you for the info! But I was a bit confused about the fill vs. flush.
I have a 2006 Impala with 118,500 miles. I have no evidence of a prior fill/flush. Where should I go from here? Should I go with a fill first? My dad's a car guy, so he can probably help me out. 🤞
drain and fill is the least invasive nad then do another on 30k miels later @@Shannonigans9
I would try to do it myself. I have a RAV4 & I bought a Haynes manual to get the proper temperature to check the fluid level & Scangauge2 to measure transmission temperature. Buy the fluid from dealer. I am doing one drain & fill every 30K miles. Make sure vehicle is level & it is running when checking fluid level on Toyota.
I went to the dealer they wanted to "Flush it" they call it a "fluid exchange" now because flush is a bad term now. I showed them service manual said not to do that only do a drain and fill. They said if I wanted that would cost more. I suspect it comes down to speed and less labor by using a machine.
Trusting someone to work on my car gives me ulcers when I can’t do the work myself.
@@gregnixon1296true
I find it curious that from the beginning of automotive time, all auto trans has to be flushed.
NOW, with the Ford 8F35 & 6F35 which is a design Ford bought from GM as a 6speed, these
trans DO NOT require flushing. How odd. So, when you pull the drain plug the torque
converter drains too? The filter is internal so to replace it the trans has to be dropped & split
to get to it. This is an all new service procedure OR nobody wants to do a proper flush so
Ford tells us to just drain & replace hoping the trans will have a short service life and it will
fail leading us to buy a new Ford?
!
Low or high miles, I would never flush my transmission.
Just let drain the old transmission fluid and replace it with recommended new one, including filter.
That’s what everyone says but I dunno. New stuff has tighter tolerances with cheaper steel. If done every 30k a flush a flush and 90 a filter change would prob be right. But that’s for plain service no issues. If having trans issues of any kind drop pan check filter should be the way not a flush otherwise your potentially pushing too heavy materials other places where it will blow.
Makes no sense. A "flush" really is just a fluid exchange. Nothing is actually "flushed". It's great for your trans, as you get 100% of your fluid changed, instead of just roughly a quarter of it. There are pros and cons to both methods, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with a "flush". The name really causes some confusion
@@SealofPerfectionI baby mine, I do a “flush” every 28k miles.
I was quoted 250 but when i went in to pick it up it changed to 550...MF never again, im now now a seasoned driveway mechanic
How did that happen?
Nice video, you cover a lot of different areas surrounding this topic. Im sure the debate goes on for many tho
CVT flushes are about $400. Fluid changes are about $300.
I have a 2019 Chevy Impala with 64000 miles, that also has a Warranty. Will the Warranty cover any of the price of the transmission flush.
Thanks for the video!
I have a 2020 cx9 at 64000 miles never has transmission fluid changed. From the vid, I’d I am hearing correctly, flushing out is not recommended for a car that has never had the trans fluid changed at high mileage. Thanks.
great video
Honda dealership recommended a flush at 93k miles. Is there a potential to harm the transmission?
Transmission flushes can be a controversial topic, with different opinions among experts and car owners. In my opinion, 93k is too low mileage for flushing... But the decision also depends on the age of the car.
Howdy, I have a 17 year old Hyundai Santa Fe with 93,000 miles. Would you think it’s better to get it flushed or just do a drain/fill?
Drain and fill
Do you think changing my Honda CRV transmission fluid now is a good idea? It’s at 76,000 miles.
Drain and fill yes if needed. Full on flush hell no. CVT just leve it alone.
Gotta be Honda transmission fluid only.
@@theunknownone5663 Thank you
Draining my Tundra's transmission yields 90% of the fluid... good enough for me.
Not my Tundra. I do a “standard” drain and fill periodically, but only get about 3-4 quarts of the 12 capacity. But I’m happy with that.
Not unless you either have a manual, or there's a drain bolt on the torque converter. Some transmissions did have the ability to drain the converter, but if not, most of the fluid is in there and no way you can get it out with flushing.
I have 147k on my cx7 i dont know if the fluid has ever been drained but im scared that if i do a flush it will harm it what do you think fluid is dark when i checked and ut shifts fine
Do not flush at a shop
Toyota Manual and Dealers said WS Tranny OIL NEVER need Change!
i find that hard to believe as there's is no such thing as a LIFETIME OIL!
Toyota Dealers told me don't do it...........i'm going to anyways!
i'm going to have my Mechanic do it
✌✌
NAMASTEY INDIAN
💯 "🥂"
So draining and replacing a transmission fluid is what? Transmission fluid change..?
If i were to drain and swap for a new filter whats that called? A transmission flush..?
I'm lost..😂😂
Let's say your transmission has a total capacity of 12 quarts. If you drain and fill, you only replace 4, maybe 5 quarts. The rest is still old, dirty fluid. But you do get a new filter.
With a flush, you get 12 quarts of new fluid, but keep the same filter. If the trans is in good shape, this really doesn't matter. If you're having a problem, then changing it either way won't fix it, it's going to fail anyway.
I have a 2020 Tiguan with 60k. Should I do it?
Why waste moneys no one driving old cars no more. Just pay attention on the roads
If a car has done less than 30k miles in 10 years or so, is it still necessary to change ATF (considering its red and tranny temperature is in normal range)? If so, why? Does any "additive" in ATF degrade PURELY based on age?
The need to change automatic transmission fluid depends on various factors, including the manufacturer's recommendations, the type of ATF used, and the driving conditions. Car's milage is only one factor.
ATF deteriorates over time due to heat, friction, and contamination, which can lead to degraded performance and potential damage to the transmission system. Even with low mileage, the ATF can still accumulate moisture, sludge, and other contaminants, affecting its lubricating and cooling properties.
It's better to look in the manual or contact the manufacturer for specific guidelines on ATF change intervals. They often provide recommendations based on time, mileage, or a combination of both.
@@MaxTheCarGuy My manual conservatively says "change with JWS 3309 spec ATF after every 99000 miles"... If the car needs 15 years to rake up those miles, will the original ATF hold up for 15 years? If not then after how many years should I change? This is the motivation behind this question !
Maxthecarguy it’s your turn to reply.
If you want to be on the extra safe side. I’d do a simple drain and fill every 1-3 years depending on the vehicle and driving style and work load. Some cars/trucks are known to eat transmissions up(I’d do a quick search on yours). My reasoning to this is even transmissions rebuilders only offer about a 1-3 year warranty at best on avg. Where sometimes they fail before or just after warranty, sometimes they go on forever but if in that short a time u can trash a new transmission that’s a lot of metal u could avoid from just moving around in the system and also gunk and build up that can clog up the small orifices in the transmission. Good fluid will extend life of transmissions just think about motor oil. Additive style transmission flushes have been known to work well and loosen up sticky valves and solenoids in transmissions , fix hard shifts etc but you have to be cautious sometimes removing so much gunk at once could potentially clog something up as well but the point is to catch it before it gets really bad. They usually work well with great results if done right but are generally expensive since you have to drain and fill the system multiple times to ensure you have all of the flush additive out of the car. With some systems costing easily 150 or more in fluid alone to fill imagine filling and draining like 3-4 times to be safe can add up and sometimes having to repeat said process for perfect results but beats a transmission replacement bill on most vehicles any day. Recommend doing your self for cost and making sure it’s done right. The simple fill and drain can clean up the transmission as well since they usually have detergents in them and is a safer way to clean but also should be done for preventative maintenance if it’s kept up with usually never have a need to flush system but considering no one ever changes there fluid a flush isn’t a bad idea to start with especially if your at higher miles and then do your preventative maintenance from then on.
Also Magnetic drain bolts help as a wear indicator and stop shavings from circulating as much.
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