This '96 MXZ Runs Like Junk: Let's Fix It!
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- I bought this 1996 Ski-doo MXZ 583 last fall, and it's been nothing but problem after problem. She'll never again look like new, but maybe we can make her at least run like new!
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As someone who has rebuilt 583s a few times right down to the crank, there are a few things to note. You generally want two or three *wet* primes where you can see fuel flowing to the carbs before starting it cold. On mine, I need to give it five or six loose pumps before it even gets fuel up to the carbs, even with a new primer. Your belt is also too low in your secondary, so you should probably take a look at the deflection and alignment. If you didn't change out the needle jets in the carbs, you may want to. On my 583, the original needle jets (224 AA-2) were so worn out that they were bogging the midrange heavily and making the idle circuit extra rich until I replaced them. Blowing out all of the passages with compressed air is also helpful. Rebuilding the fuel pump is also very easy and would be good practice if you don't know when it was last done. Replacing the filters with the stock airbox would also be a good idea as the OEM jetting table would only apply with the stock box. Lastly, did you have a disconnected oil line, possibly the one running to the pump? Even with premix, you still need oil feeding to at least the rotary valve cavity to keep that gear bathed. You may also want to give it a bit more of a warmup before ripping...
You know the engine also needs to warm up a bit...
Also a friendly tip pull your rope tight before yanking on it, it will make the recoil last a lot longer
I winced everytime he pulled that thing 😢
Two bucks stand atop a hill watching over some does. The young buck says let's run down and get one of those does. The old buck says let's walk and get them all. That was my thought when I finally fixed my hood cable. Ten minute job that I let bug me for most of a season 😂. I would have made this same video 5 years ago, unsoldered wire and all. Keep it up up though, its all fine when your riding!
Just to let you know your gonna kill that fresh top end rebuild running the sled like that
Rebuild those carbs. Sync them, Put a proper air box on those two at the end of the carbs cause alot of issues with snow getting in. and restricting air flow check your carb boots for any cracks, Drain that tank, put fresh gas in and a bit of gas line antifreeze for one tank. And it should be good :)
Spot on. Maybe a crank seal. Don't blow it
Yeah that motor made about 95 HP new, with the air box punched out and a good tune it should make 100...
Sure. But as you go through deep snow and it flies through your hood vent holes. Where does it collect? Yep. Right on those little carb air filters. And where does melted snow go from there? Right into your engine. Put an air box back on it. You can buy thinner air filter fabrick than the stock box had. Cut it to shape. And there's your equivalent to a few holes in your air box, BUt still will be protected too :) Cheers :) And I love your videos too :)
I’m a Ski Doo guy so I’d say keep it or do what I did and keep flipping them until you find something you just got to have and think of all the fun you will have doing it. I remember my first ski doo. That was 30 plus years ago. I had so much fun and I’m still having fun. I got a 2003 mxz X800rand a 2017 renegade 850x. Have fun ride safe. 👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦👍👍
I once had a jetski that ran perfectly fine. And from one day to another it ran very bad. It was end of season and I wanted to sell it so to the end of winter I started looking into it and found out there was a hole in the exhaust. The fumes came out inside the hull and the intake is in the same space. The machine inhaled his own exhaust fumes and that does not work very good. So I fixed the hole and inmediately ran perfect again. So maybe your exhaust leak caused the same issue here.
First fix the dam pull start!! Check boots etc for dry cracks,air leaks. Spray parts cleaner down the side the motor between the block and clutch. Engine speed picks up, seals bad.
If you haven't already spray some carburetor cleaner on the crank seal behind the clutch see if it revs up and down and that will determine if it has a bad crank seal cuz it definitely sounds it's not firing on 2 cylinders
Main jet bowl air intake screws needs propped adjustment, not the idle screw. It will stop the bogging .. hopefully helps.
Fax it will help for all models from 2002 -1975
Except the skidoos with bogie's
Only ones with sliders it will help more of theless
Try not to rev it so high while it’s still cold it’s terrible for your top end
I don't understand how anybody can work on the intricate carburetor parts with gloves on ..
It's going to be reliable if it's maintained properly... just like anything..
Keep it and check the boots on your carbs for cracks.
a few tips I hope you already know is old mxz take a lot to start also the keys like to power only 1 cylinder if its not on just right and they don't like to run cold let them warm up for 5 to 10 min and running them at high idle when cold will Couse bad damage over time as the pistons and cylinder walls change from temperature you can get piston slap or could couse the rings to bind up.
You might want to check the sparkplug caps, bad caps can cause plug fouling. If you measure the resistance across the cap with a multimeter you should get a reading of about 75 ohms. When reading plugs, I recommend using used plugs to get a clearer reading (should be done after a wide open run)
Nice video Chuck, love the obscure history you discover and share.
That hood side decals sure look like those of a 1997 MXZ.
Decals on the trailing arms are 1996.
It is liquid cooled, that engine Needs to sit running for about 5 minutes to warm up or until the thermostat opens. And then a few minutes more. Not running on both cylinders. Those carbs need a serious cleaning. Replacing parts without proper cleaning or float setting is not likely to help or justify the cost of the carb kit in my opinion.
Can you cover the damn thing up?
Consider not pulling the rope until you have tension on the rope. Damage to the pull start mechanism will ensue using your current technique.
Usually the fuel pickup in the gas tank has broken up and disintegrated by now. Has this in tank fuel line and it's in tank filter been checked/replaced?
The 583 and 670 Need the primer to keep them running when you first start them up.
I have the same machine, Clean carbs are your starting point in this situation.
Though, encouraging to see that you are not afraid of getting after it mechanically
Please clean the carbs proper. Then go after the dropped cylinder.
I sometimes think that crappy ethanol fuel, contributes to a lot of these no run, no start conditions, it doesn't last very long either, before it's junk !
I had one it was awesome just clean the carbs let them soak and clean all passages and rebuild the fuel pump and put air box back on !
Also, there is water in the gas tank. That’s why your sled is having that issue where it runs just won’t move. Put some HEET in the tank over night, should be good n ready to scream after that
125 seems kinda low compression for being a brand new top end being that it is a rotax and you are going to ruin that top end running the sled like that
One thing to take note of is those pod filters, I had some on my 98 mxz 500 and it bogged out, when I put the stock air box in it ran perfect, it’s ether getting to much air or not enough
He should run with the stock airbox, better than those pods!!
My 1999 grand touring 500 is a beeeotch to start. I added electric start to it. 5 or 6 primes and away it goes. Then I just use pull cord to fire it up once warm. Half a pull no issues
You may have a bad crank seal when it is idleing spray in by the clutch
do you mean base gasket or crank seal
@@user-ho7ds1lq2y Could be gasket or crank seal. If your engine is a liquid cooled then you will leak coolant into your engine or outside the engine and you will know.
Those 583 and 670 motors are bulletproof if maintenance is done properly. Definitely need to rebuild carbs and go from there. U need the airbox to run properly too....u are sucking snow into the carbs possibly
I suggest you bring it to someone who knows how to fix these. As this is destined to leave you way in the woods.
And let the thing warm up before you take off your going to granade that motor
It’s only running on one cylinder. Check compression first. Clean carbs meticulously. New everything. Get rid of the existing gas in tank and replace with new.
great video you should keep fixing it
I’ve had the same problem on my sled, what it does is suck air somewhere between the carbs and the cyl block. Could be a boot, maybe the carb isn’t seated properly in the boot, if you run it like that it will blow a piston. Another possibility is if the crank seals are leaking, as mentioned above if you spray carb cleaner at the seals, also at the carb to engine connections, and the engine gains rpm, that’s where it is leaking.
You should put BR8ES plugs in it instead of BR9ES. 8s don't foul out a much because it's a hotter plug. Try them you won't be disappointed
Br9eya are the better option actually
Anyway run iridium plugs for that crisp crackle.
The air filters are caved in, get rid of those and it’ll run better. It’s choking itself out with those. That and warm it the hell up lol
I loved my 583 MXZ a lot. Light and fast trail sled
Your belt is burning because you didn't bounce the back of the sled up and down first thing when it sits out in the cold for a few hours. Everything freezes up so bounce it a few times to free it up. Also inner cylinder is not firing. Your clutching is filthy and I guarantee you that they are not shifting out properly look at all the belt dust build up on the sheevs. You need to take the primary and secondary clutches apart and clean them. Fix you exaust leak no exaust equals no power. Clean your variable exaust valve's there probably gummed up and not opening all the way judging by the way the sled looks. If you maintain that sled right you will have a fast 100 mph sled. They are quick and nimble I have one to this day and it is like a tractor it just keeps going but I maintain it the way it needs to be. You have a great little sled there don't give up on her yet. Also keep an eye on your break system they get gummy in the master cylinder and hang up not releasing the breaks and hang the caliper up and make the rotor red hot and catches the break fluid on fire because it melts the o- rings out of the caliper and fluid leaks all over the rotor and poof instant fire and melts all your wiring and cdi as well and possibly melts gas line and then history. I hope you read this and take my advice.
Sound's like it's only firing on one cylinder .
Warm it up properly keep it running but dont go wot as soon as it starts
I had a bog problem on my 95 xcr 600, wouldn't idle without some choke. Pilot jets were plugged. Cleaned them and she runs great.
Why aren't you covering your sleds??? Tarps are not expensive!!
$10 tarp will keep snow from eventually melting into your gauges display causing moisture build up and shorting out your electrical system. Also check the compression it sounds low! Good luck.
i use to have a 97 formula 583! I miss it so much lol although it did have issues. Where are you located? looks like norther ontario
Running on 1 cylinder
Ski doos are heart breakers
Have a peek at your belt deflection also, seems like it may be a tad loose at the 5min mark and not riding high as it should in the secondary.
And that exhaust definitely has something to do with it
That thing sounds like the rotary valve is out of time. When it does pick up on 2 cyl. You have to get it running on 2 before you can do anything. Did you ever check for spark ?
Sounds like you need someone to help you fix that sled
Yikes..that thing needs a overhaul..I wouldn't trust that to drive around the yard lol
As a carburetor person.. don't use needle nose...and also the carburetor body's should be soaked with cleaner for a few days to clean all ports..just saying
Fast sled when running right
the problem is you, blasting it full throttle isn't the way to keep a cold engine running, use the primer as much as needed, its leaning out when you open the throttle. i rebuilt my engine and carbs, it fires up instantly but needs a pump or two to keep it going when cold. i never use the pull rope but it starts first pull if the battery is weak.
you might want to do a compression test.
You need to melt the snow off have it where it's warm and adjust your carburetors that will be a start I have an 81 9500 Plus did the same thing I cooked out the carburetors and rebuilt them all you need to do now is adjust your high-speed
Ditch those pod filters and get yourself an air box.
I wouldn’t run good either if someone revved the piss out of me when I was that cold. let it warm up before you touch the gas. if it ran properly you wouldn’t need to touch the gas to keep it running
It might need a fuel pump as well
Get rid of the pod filters and put an air box in it
You're on one cylinder, check electrical leads and coils.
check that your getting good fuel flow to the carbs could be a plugged fuel line or bad pump
You're lucky you didn't cook the coil pulling it over without the plug wires attached
Your going to wreck your recoil. Don’t leave slack in the cord when you pull on it.
First off get a stock air box because those filters aren’t filtering shit and adjus your idle air screw back to 1 1/2
Get rid of those garbage pod filters. Find a factory air box. You probly have a bad crank seal on the pto side. I bet your mid pipe is full of rust holes.
Bad crank seal. Also let it warm up before riding lol
Pretty sure this may be my old sled. Get ahold of me are you in Maine?
Why no airbox?
Starts sled dead cold, immediately tries pinning the throttle. Yikes bro.
Your read valves or Your power valves just need to be replaced or cleaned then it will probably run way better
I’m having an identical issue with my 97 formula 500
Edit: a bogging and wet plug issue
I’m confused, what’s the point of replacing parts on the carburetor with out actually cleaning any of the passages…. You replaced the main jet without cleaning the emulsion tube, you replaced the pilot jet without cleaning out the passages, for all you know there’s a piece of gunk clogging your pilot jet passage and that’s why you can’t start it, also if it’s actually flooded pull it over while holding the throttle wide open, you need more air to overcome the excess fuel you now have in the combustion chamber.
takes 3 complete primes man i know ive owned lots of skidoos
Buddy don’t know how to just step back for 2 minutes and let it warm up. You JUST did a carb clean
Check for spark if it’s good then do compression test tells you alot
Well you got it running now right it's not all bite up right if I was you trade it for something else well it's running they where bad for the Staters in them you don't won't to get in to that but it's your sled right how am I to say looks good though your friend steve
Your videos are interesting, but man, WARM THE SLED UP before you even touch the throttle. ALWAYS let it run until the cooling system is warm front to back of sled. The recoil, put a bit more tension on the spring so it retracts fully. And take the slack out of the rope before yu yank on it. That will rip the recoil into pieces if you keep doing that. Rebuild fuel pump on that mxz, when it's running, spray brake clean or something flammable, at the crank seal behind clutch, and if there's a little window of some kind around the recoil side where you can spray some into the flywheel/stator area spray it to. Might have to start it without the recoil on to check that seal. Not sure on that model. But definitely warm the machine up very well before you move the machine.
It's running on one cylinder check your spark
U definitely need a airbox
Also cover your stuff up 😂
This is abuse 😢 look up some RUclips videos you’ll get er, check oil pressure and lines, clean gas tank out and let the poor thing warm up more importantly
Definitely my old sled wanna sell it?
Or trade it Idk how to upload a picture on here but i could show you a side by side comparison of a screenshot i took of your video and a picture of when i had it
Why destroy the hood...
It's just running on one cylinder
Check for spark,bad crank seals
Get a original airbox, those are junk
Your belts backwards 😅
Bogs indicates lean, not enough fuel..
Hi
Pull
You need to have more tension on your pull cord.
I don't want to sound like an asshole but if people are going to work on carbs go buy a 1/4 drive socket set instead of using plyers
rip the engine out and completely overhaul it.
get a actual air box your sucking in so much water