I have 18 of these 'weeny' boards here, let me know if anyone wants to buy. Not sure if I have enough pin headers and screw terminals for all of them though, so I could only provide those for the first few boards sold. iforce2d at gmail
you can use the existing monitor with HDMI using the DVI port you mentioned. HDMI and DVI are essentially identical digital signals and are just different form factors, you can buy an adapter for less than £5.
To solve your "never turn the VFD on first" problem you could also just put an actual relay in the signal path of the digital potentiometer (going to the VFD), that only get's manually closed by the controller when the ESTOP is off (or tied to any other state of course). That VFD can also be configured in much detail, which might be the reason it starts in an ESTOP-like state, and that can probably be configured as well. Or it might expect a signal on one of the inputs to clear that state (which might also be OK and wouldn't need a configuration change).
Not sure, but do you really need the digital pot ? .. I thought the VFD just expects a voltage on that pin, couldn't that be done with a 10V source feeding a simple n-channel mosfet (and maybe a couple resistors and a cap) ? -- anyhow .. Awesome to hear of you ;) Thanks for the video !
You mean the one in the PC? Yeah I will, that part of it is actually only about a year old. The original one blew up soon after I built the machine, was rather annoying.
Ironically, that may well be the issue. It might have no 5v or an unstable 12v. Also, it may just need the CMOS battery replaced (or removed) and the settings cleared. Low battery can cause corruption of CMOS in ways that stop POST.
Why not use the 10V from the VFD and just simply use a transistor or mosfet driven by a PWM pin? It's just a simple buffer circuit. Like this you have your full PWM Resolution to control your VFD/Speed. Simple, easy, cheap. It would be sad to limit a machines performance because of sub-optimal control of a VFD 😥
I have 18 of these 'weeny' boards here, let me know if anyone wants to buy. Not sure if I have enough pin headers and screw terminals for all of them though, so I could only provide those for the first few boards sold. iforce2d at gmail
you can use the existing monitor with HDMI using the DVI port you mentioned. HDMI and DVI are essentially identical digital signals and are just different form factors, you can buy an adapter for less than £5.
14 years it did it's work, nice. But this new setup will be capable of all the tasks, thanks for explaining it. Cheers 👍💪✌
To solve your "never turn the VFD on first" problem you could also just put an actual relay in the signal path of the digital potentiometer (going to the VFD), that only get's manually closed by the controller when the ESTOP is off (or tied to any other state of course). That VFD can also be configured in much detail, which might be the reason it starts in an ESTOP-like state, and that can probably be configured as well. Or it might expect a signal on one of the inputs to clear that state (which might also be OK and wouldn't need a configuration change).
Might be worth tossing a new coin cell CMOS battery in that computer. Might wake it back up
Check the power out of the PSU too.
Doesn't even need a new one (battery) in to test... Just pull the old one. If it works, chuck a new one in.
You can take the 10V output of the VFD to feed into the digital potentiometer to get the full speed range
ayy, is good to get the broad overview of this kind of project, cheers
The arms themselves are never compatible they usually cover up a set of holes that are known as vesa standard which you can use with aftermarket arms
Not sure, but do you really need the digital pot ? .. I thought the VFD just expects a voltage on that pin, couldn't that be done with a 10V source feeding a simple n-channel mosfet (and maybe a couple resistors and a cap) ? -- anyhow ..
Awesome to hear of you ;) Thanks for the video !
Some say it is a tell-tale sign that software developer is angry when his keyboard is screwed to a table.
In New Zealand it just means that he has run out of number eight fencing wire. 😜
Try a pull-down resistor on the output of that digital pot
You can use a dvi to hdmi adapter they use the same singles. A $2 passive adapter would have done the job.
hi did you try the tried and tested method to fix all electronics with the computer? eg give it a wack
Hi
Good job realy and great vidéo.
Your are electrical engineer?
A bit too late, but you can buy HDMI to DVI adapters cheap. Signals are similar, so it is mostly a pinout change.
⚠ Nur DVI-D und DVI-I können mit einfachen passiven Adaptern auf HDMI adaptiert werden!
@@GermanMythbuster
The DVI is on the monitor as a second port. It's DVI-D.
Nice build! Please do and share more! If any custom PCBs or metal 3DP/CNC'd parts can help? We'd love to sponsor! (PCBWay zoey)
Save that power supply they come in handy.
You mean the one in the PC? Yeah I will, that part of it is actually only about a year old. The original one blew up soon after I built the machine, was rather annoying.
Ironically, that may well be the issue. It might have no 5v or an unstable 12v.
Also, it may just need the CMOS battery replaced (or removed) and the settings cleared. Low battery can cause corruption of CMOS in ways that stop POST.
Why not use the 10V from the VFD and just simply use a transistor or mosfet driven by a PWM pin?
It's just a simple buffer circuit.
Like this you have your full PWM Resolution to control your VFD/Speed. Simple, easy, cheap.
It would be sad to limit a machines performance because of sub-optimal control of a VFD 😥
hello!
Long time no see.....