High Temp Resin For Function 3d Printing (Sculpt Ultra)
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
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In this video we take a look at a new resin from Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra white. This is a pretty crazy resin that has a heat deflection temperature of 220C making it a perfect candidate for functional 3d printing. In today's video we take a look at the resins properties, what is needed to print this resin, and of course we do some 3d printing!
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These photopolymer resins are what is called thermoset polymers, which do not melt but burn when exposed to heat after curing.
You may already know this, but professional prototyping services will usually use helicoil inserts for screw bosses in SLA parts. You have to buy a tap-type of tool for each size you want to apply, and installation requires a little bit of user skill. They're not cheap, but work well.
I was going to say the same but you got there first
Maybe you leave the holes larger so the brass insert slides in feely. (First, mask off the bottom of the insert.) Fill the surround with clear resin. Then UV cure it. Will the UV light cure all the resin, or will the outer resin filter the UV "protecting" the inner resin?
@@dougyt261 I was going to say that before you.
love the craftman, good call
He’s a legend 🙌
Your Crafsman callout earned you a well deserved subcription. The Crafsman - Steady Crafting is a RUclips gem.
You've figured out my secret! LOL
Actually, pretty much all of the common resins will withstand up to 150°C w/o any deformation. The prints look, and function, exactly like extruded plastic parts. This is why I had been trying so hard to get my Elegoo Saturn. While I would never have considered using an FTM print on the print head of a 3D printer, due to low temperature resistance and stress tolerances, I can create resin parts that I don't need to have any concern about when operating in an 80°C ambient temperature environment.
As for the heat inserts, they were designed for FTM and low temp plastic extrusions. Those materials don't stand up that well to the stresses that a nut and bolt can expert, so they work well with those materials. Resin prints can be much stronger, even stronger than some hard plastics when compressed, so nuts an bolts are a much better option. You really wouldn't want to use these brass inserts on hard plastics/resins, as the material would need to be weaker than it currently is, to do so.
Interesting I have never tested max temps of standard model resin. I would like to play around with this more in the future. Someone made some recommendations for other inserts and another said insert before curing. So many things to try out :). You end up getting the Saturn?
@@ModBotArmy yep. I used camelcamelcamel to notify me when the price dropped below $500, which means that Elegoo has inventory in stock. I was able to get one in April. Since then, they have been in stock for days at a time now. 😁
Resins are Thermoset polymers (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosetting_polymer) which means they cure once and then with heat these polymer degrade rather than "reform". This is why you saw the "crumbling effect" when you tried to put the heat inserts in.
FDM polymers are Thermoplastic (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic). These Polymers can be remelted and this is why you put heat inserts in.
Thanks, looking forward to the follow up video. With brass inserts I've had good luck with oversizing the hole to the OD of the insert and then coating the hole and insert with resin and using a uv light pen to set it. I also find when over sizing the hole it's much better to run your drill in reverse, prevents cracking and chipping bit I still effective at drilling.
Tapped threads actually hold decent pressure so far, tried m3 threads and they came out clean. Might do a test print and use my electric torque screwdriver to get some numbers. Currently printing Hotend duct parts however.
another resin for high temp is the "LOCTITE 3D Printing 3860 High Heat"....but the resin cost much much more..Happy to hear that I have now an alternative. Thanks
You should try adding the brass inserts in, without heat, before the part is fully cured, using clear resin so you can UV cure after the brass inserts are in place
I wonder if you could press the brass inserts in before you do the final cure of the resin ?
You can do this! I do it with pogo pin sockets at work
I love this stuff. Works well for things around the hot end. Not a replacement for something like PC though as it lacks toughness.
This answered all my questions thank you.
- I'd like to see you try an adjustable/ high temp soldering iron
Seems like resin printing also opens up to practical printing as well. 200+ C° is really really good. Its way better than any FDM material that you can buy without robbing a bank. Details are also important in many applications, especially when the parts are tiny, and you need a smooth uniform surface. An another + for SLA or DLP is that your part has the same strength no matter what is the printing direction FDM still have its place, but personally i think resin printing can be a huge additional.
And the possibilty to make custom colors, "alloys" oh man... Thats just way more fun than buying filaments that you can not modify
I would've really liked to have seen you try the moulds! Did it work? What process would you use to inject plastic or metal?
Great video as always 👍
Interesting subject 😀
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Lower HDT resins will accept heatserts. I've had luck with sirayatech blu. An issue that can occur is overheating the resin.. it will turn into glass / sand. Also, a tenacious mixture will allow for more of a "nylon like" print which will increase impact strength.
The figures I'm reading in 2024 for Sculpt Ultra White are completely different than those mentioned in your video at 03:30 as well as in your Google spreadsheet.
For example (newer first): Shrinkage per volume 2.5% vs 3.5%; Elongation at break 1% vs 2%; Young's modulus 8000 vs 1400 MPa (!), etc.
Do you know if Siraya Tech has changed the formulation since 2021? And not a little!
If only the things I'd like to do, the time available and my budget were more in sync ;) Man, this looks fantastic. I'd love to try moulds like that not only for resin casting but for other stuff as well, like silicone and Suguru to make custom toys for children
If the part is big enough, you can use these 'Nartel® Metal Self Drilling Plasterboard Fixings Cavity Wall'' . Break the self drill tip, and use 7mm drill.
i'm working on using castable wax resin to print parts. Put in investment plaster, harden, and burn own. You can then use the investment plaster molds to cast aluminum.
Great video. Looking forward to trying this resin myself. Instead of injection molding, have you considered casting with two part urethanes directly into a 3D printed mold (skipping making of the silicone mold from a master)?
What do you think might be the most brittle resin of all the resins you've tried? I'm a visual artist, and am trying to 3d print an object that is easy to shatter! Thanks for your video!
If i print miniatures will the swords or fingers break off easily or will they bend before doing so?
I used this stuff to print a fan duct for my enclosed ender 5 plus, which I print PC and ABS with. Its been 6 months and the duct it still going strong.
Late but thats what i came here to find out. Thanks
Great video. Specially the info about the brass heat inserts. I was wondering about that myself. I guess I could just design my parts so the insert just drops in. Put a piece of scotch tape to close the threaded hole at the bottom and glue them in with either epoxy or even better yet a uv curing adhesive.
Yes, i've done this and epoxy works very well.
I might be wrong, but I think cured resin is a thermoset so it doesn't melt like FDM parts which are thermoplastics; they'll just burn and crumble instead.
I do think you may be right. That was at least my results.
I think you did an outstanding job, what do you thing about it use in thermopressing
Awesome video, really looking forward to the Voron build.
Still havnt made the jump to resin, would love to see a video similar to the video you done with a spool of filament and how far it goes, but with resin. Prime day is right around the corner, who knows, maybe I'll grab an sla printer. I keep thinking about it.
FYI heat-set threaded inserts will not work in these types of resin, Generally speaking photo resins are not thermoplastics. You may be able to heat-set them in a castable resin, but most of those are wax like in their cured form and wouldn’t work well for functional parts. Inserts meant to thread into materials would probably work but you’d have to pre tap the outer thread into the resin part.
So what suggestions would be for this? I need to print my Voron 2.4 extruder/hotend parts due to breaking something and have access to resin printer.
Im interested in resin printers but one of the things I've heard is that dimensional accuracy is difficult because of the curing step. Have you had issues with this? Could I expect the same dimensional accuracy that I can get from a well tuned FDM printer? I.e. usually my test cubes come out within 0.05mm.
In my personal experience, yes but you may very well need to calibrate it.
The best Resin I have used yet, is the eSun water washable, its strong has no smell and you can clean up in water, I hate using sticky resin and IPA, its messy and toxic.
Also, don't bother using inserts, just print the thread, and never over cure as the more you expose resin to UV the more brittle it becomes, if you keep it slightly sticky and just paint it, the stuff is almost indestructible.
Is there any safe resin with no fumes? I’ve been wanting a resin printer, but I don’t wanna put my kids health at risk.
There are plant based resins that are a lot safer. I cant say if they're 100% safe but I know they're better. It really isnt all that bad inside of the printer itself anyway, its more of when you're handling the resin.
@@Xploit66 can you share some sources on plant based stuff being better for health?
The carbon filters that seem to come with most resin printers are pretty questionable, so I rigged up a fume extractor using some flexible ducting and an inline fan to just yeet the air from the printer to outside of my house and it has been working really well.
Respirators and ventilation
Sculpt Ultra sounds usefull the €195 it costs here on amazon is not so good.
print those knobs with a greater diameter holes to accept those brass inserts, then put in some more uncured liquid resin, and hit it with a UV pen. that should work, right?
Uncle Jessy did a video on his channel a few weeks ago about the curing issues you mentioned. You might find it interesting.
Curious to know if this resin would be good for materials that have a glass temp of 350-375F. How well it would hold up after multiple uses and whatnot
My only complaint with resin printers is the limited ability to modify them and upgrade them. Would be fantastic if they was as modular as FDM printers so I can tweak things to make it more closely fit what I want to do. Very interested in seeing some tests combining the resins and see if a better overall resin can result...
Yeah, would be nice if you could hack and mod on them like an fdm printer. I think it may end up coming but it will be much more complex and less DIY. I can see third party companies releasing upgrades that would require you to buy them
It’s not a thermoplastic so the threaded inserts won’t work. I learned that the hard way too!
just wondering if you could mount the brass insert to the build plate and print the knob around it?
I noticed that the grey is much cheaper than the white resin. Same product?
Different properties?
Hi, thanks for share, do resin printers still have the problem with the cristal, that it makes foggy with its use?
Crafsman yeah
Thanks.
Thank you Ron :)
Dude, great video. Who did your ligo character its incredible! (I need one made)
What resin would you use if you were to resin print an end use auto part, normally made with ASA for UV and heat resistance? Also, do you have a video explaining what and where you can get dyes for resin printing?
With your experience what resin would be best for modded parts on a fdm printer? I just bought the anycubic mini mono so i am a total noob to resin. I know they have abs like resin, is that resin any good? I also want to make functional gears in the future.
Great content, thanks! (Third!)
Thank you :)
is there a material to cast aluminmum in yet?
You should be able to cast tin in that material on your bench Sioux a lot of cost btw. Check out punished props he did it
hmm Im making an ultem high temp printer and this could be useful... 75$ per KG is not bad! (ultem it self is 200$ per kg lol) but I wonder how it can realistically withstand the forces I want it too in my enviroment. but i need it to handle pressure at that temp. not just exist in them! and i want to not suffer degrading at those temps long term.
my main issue however is that I can't print ultem yet, so i can't make a printer that can print ultem. this is why this rocks. I can just order it from a random SLS seller, my parts weigh only a total of 100g-120g anyway..
did someone tried sculpt ultra as a plastic injection mould? how it goes?
I did some work with my university’s polyjet printer and injection molding, and it worked pretty well. The original plan was to use a high temp resin, but I accidentally printed it out of the normal VeroClear material. Short of any small features, it worked really well, so you might not necessarily need to use a high temp resin, depending on how your mold flow is.
I don’t have a lot of pictures, but if you do get injection molding capability, it would be worth seeing if you can use a simpler resin, for a few injection shots. On a related note, do you think a sufficiently large extruder and hot end could substitute in for a small low volume injection molder?
What polymer were you using for the injection mold. And are you saying do I think you could use a large hotend and extruder to make a DIY injection molder? Or simply could a large extruder/hotend keep up with an injection molder for small scale production? As far as a DIY injection molder I dont think it could melt enough plastic quick enough to fill the mold without some cooling happening (this would depend on mold size) as far as keeping up I do think it could be close but the injection molder is still likely to be a bit faster and definitely have finer resolution compared to a large hotend/extruder
@@ModBotArmy It was a Objet printing VeroClear, which had a HDT of 50C, but we used an aluminum mold housing (just around the mold, and in direct contact with the nozzle). It worked well enough, but there was noticable wear after maybe 10 shots, so limited use cases.
And Depending on the volume of the mold, I think something like a Volcano could get a decent flowrate. I was doing these tests on a small part, around maybe 10 mm^3, so it would be very size limited. I was not super clear in my original comment, but should clarify that the volume of the individual mold and scale of the production would both be limited, and such a device would only be possible for prototyping.
The injection molder we used in the tests was hand operated, so there was not a lot of control, just pulling down until we felt resistance. On a production machine, there would absolutely be more control, but for these simple tests, it just increases flashing (which we mitigated with more clamping pressure, bent the machine's clamps while doing it, whoops). In terms of cooling, it will totally happen, but with a decent sprue and some pre-warming, the molds worked alright. Getting the molds warm first was definitely helpful, initially as a steady state after several shots, and then with a heatgun beforehand.
It's mostly posed as a theoretical. I don't have the equipment to test it (SLA printer, high flow hotend), and was wondering your thoughts on it. Ultimately, it would be of very limited usefulness, but would it enable some baseline testing of the resin you showcased in the video? I think the molds would need to be different, smaller volume, but I see the target for a 3D printer enabled injection molder would be parts too small to effectively FDM print. My links have caused some comments to not appear, so I'll put it in the next in the thread, but my results are likely related to the very small part I was printing.
@@ModBotArmy In case this comment gets deleted, a followup with the link of the part I tried to IM. github.com/dotdash32/Cases/tree/master/Keycap%20Designs/Key%20Switches
$75 for 1kg?
Long term it might be cheaper to buy budget CNC and cut molds from aluminium lmao
Sculpt Ultra doesn’t seem to be on their site. Did they maybe just move it under “Sculpt” ( dropping the Ultra ) ?
you didn't show us anything made using the molds made out of this :c what materials will you be injecting in the mold?
I thought that was a test of sculpt ultra termperature and strength, it was great but i didn't see a strength test. they do not melt at all indeed. not thermoset.
i print molds for silicone here. I just use normal resin and spray with mold release and it works fine. I don't know why you would want this heat range for a mold? what material do you plan to cast in these?
If you want to use a thermoplastic material such as polystyrene which melts at 464 deg. F a silicon mold wouldn't handle it. If you want to cast metal there are alloys that melt at around 200 deg. F which could be cast in Sculpt Ultra.
What if you placed the brass inserts in before curing?
вы печатаете модели от стола и у вас они остаются ровными? мои детали напечатаные от стола деформируются, края загибаются вверх
You would need a cnc machine to make accurate molds from these 3d printed ones.
Dude.... you did print the Molds which is great. But then you forgot to cast or to show any type of results whatsoever!
I wish you placed these in an oven at 170c to 200c just to see if they crack. thanks for the review.
How did the Voron 0 shroud last in your printer?
Handmade cure chamber?
I’m surprised you were able to print these flat
Hit the resin with a clear coat to strengthen it up
Jack Osbourne wants his face back 😮
5:53 The FEP and screen are sticking like they're wet. That's a very bad idea.
wonder if its safe to use in gasoline?
Instead of brass inserts use helicoils.
@@ModBotArmy so you use their special drill and tap. You then thread the helicoil into the thread. This then makes a secure permant steel thread. We use them in cnc fixturing all the time to make our aluminum fixture plates stronger thread wise. Super easy to do. I use them on my resin and fdm printed parts all the time.
The resin is not a thermoplastic, they do not melt.
Heat inserts won’t work because resin isn’t a thermoplastic. It just dissipates into atoms instead of becoming a fluid again when heated. Maybe someone invents a thermoplastic resin in future
Thank you! That would be awesome. Excited to see this technology continue to evolve.
@@ModBotArmy There are self tapping inserts now. You may need to change the hole diameter but I think it's worth the try! Also a strength test would be cool vonwange. com/product/100-pcs-self-tapping-inserts/
Nope you cannot heat press inserts int resin, resin isn't a plastic, it's a... resin lmao
At most you can dial the tolerances and just force press it in, but then still it's not exactly recommended.
12:31 OK, and then? why you stop ?
I love the things the craftsman does, but I can't watch their videos, I can not deal with the presentation style
2nd!!!!
You were quick!
First!
Woohoo!
Don't tell me what you want to do, do it and show me. Sorry, but this video was a big disappointment.
I appreciate the feedback. I do feel I did as much as I could given my space and that there was still a lot of information in this video useful to those interested in a higher temp resin.
@@ModBotArmy I found much useful information in this video that I couldn't find anywhere else. No disappointment here!