I used to shoot film which I developed and printed myself, but when I see guys doing it today with all the digital cameras and software available because it's 'creative', I just wonder why? Like saying I got to work today using the the 2 ponies I had to catch in the field and tie to the wagon beforehand - was so much fun - hahaha. Love your channel - keep the good videos coming
Wonderfull show thank you. Please produce more videos about film and film stocks and film cameras, developing etc. digital is so boring compared to film. I’m curious about some of the streaks in your images in the sky. one can see two dark lines going across the top of the sky in many of your images.. Was that from the scanning or from the developer process? And what lab do you recommend to have your film processed? Again thank you for your great show.
Thank you for your comment. The streaks in the images are from the Horizon Camera. It is vintage and has some flaws in the cartridge that rolls the film through so it scratches. We will eventually retouch those out of some of the images. We send our film to Richard Photo Lab in Santa Clarita, CA.
Hi, nice Vid. What do you think What sould I do if Im on spot át flat light. Or just hars cold light What would be the best Iso if tese not low light situation? T.
Sorry if I said it in a confusing way. That is absolutely right. You expose for the shadows and process for the highlights. The reason I overexpose by shooting at 800 ISO is to give detail to the shadows.
Hi Jay. Thanks for your video, really interesting. I would like to ask you if is possible to know the developing process you normally use and specially for the photos of this video. In this way I can have an idea of how the negative resulted. Later I'll develop a roll of Tri-x shot at 320 ISO and developing it in Rodinal at 20° reducing 5% developing time, 12' 20", considering Rodinal is not so suitable for high speed films. Let's see.
HI, its nice vid. So just I understand You exposed the 400 is film at 800 and developed at 1600? What do you think do i need tripod at landscape or enough exp at 800/16000 and handhold? Whats the best is iso at tx400 if I would like to use polarize f.and with red f? Do I need red f. at iso 800/1600. I just tried it at iso 400 boxspeed at polar.and red filter at sunny blue sky. Its was nice back sky.. I shot these on 35mm but now Im trying 120 format with handhold and tripod. I need an avarege good iso to use it in every weather conditon for landscapes.
It is always better to use a tripod. But you will be using fast shutter speeds and can probably hand hold most things until it gets pretty dark. As the sun goes down you will need a tripod.
The darkroom is where all the magic is. Get one. Put it in your closet, or your bathroom etc but do it! FYI metering this way usually only works in wide open areas. If you’re watching this video, make sure you realize this
Kodak Tri-X and Kodak TMAX400 are very good for "dynamic range" photos if you expose at ISO 200 and develop in a thin solution for longer tie very gently, it gives very fine grey tones and you still have a very good contrast in your images. The Kodak TMAX400 are much better then the Tri-X !
@@TheSlantedLens Hi, yes I experimented a lot, I did use the Ansel Adams zone-system, but it was too complicated and took too much time, I also had always to carry at least five Hasselblad magazines. So I was very happy first working with the Tri-x and later the TMAX400 at ISO 200. I did a lot of black & white photography, both as a professional photographer and for private use. I can highly recommend to experiment with the TMAX400, I will recommend Kodak TMAX developer. I is best to develop in a small steel tank, I do not remember the thin resolution ratio, but it was 11 minutes, with 2 very gently agitation (turning the tank upside down) each 30. second. Remember to use a handheld light meter with invercone (or similar) for incident-light. If your a very good at "converting" color to a grey scale then a spot meter are fine. Good luck with the experimenting.
You said you’re exposing at 1600 and shooting at 800. I am a bit confused. Are you saying you’re metering at 800, but your development time will be based on 1600?
When I shoot I am overexposing a stop to get a dense negative. Then I am pushing the film 2 stops in developing. Most people who understand film shoot at 1/2 box speed. That is what 800 is, 1/2 the box speed of 1600.
@@TheSlantedLens I understand. Would you say that this process that you use is a Tri X thing or for example could it work with Ilford HP5 400 speed film. I ask because I’ve got quite a bit of that film stock right now.
@zhongyao-sc1lj He is using a film speed of 1600 with development times for 1600. That is a two stop push in processing from the development time for an ei of 400, box speed.. When he meters he is overexposing by one stop. He could meter at 1600, then add a stop of exposure from the meter reading of 1600, or just set the meter at an ei of 800. He is simply saying to overexpose one stop.
TRI-X is my favorite street portrait film. The contrast is perfect and just enough grain with 35mm
Being a hybrid shooter, I always find great nuggets of information on your channel. Thanks for sharing; great video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for your comment!
Get a darkroom. You’ll be happy
Excellent. Thank you. Can't wait to see the video on metering.
Coming soon! Thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the information, great video !!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Great tips! Love the video
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Great video! I haven't shot with Tri-X since I was a teen. Your B&W photos look fantastic here
Thank you, I appreciate that!
I used to shoot film which I developed and printed myself, but when I see guys doing it today with all the digital cameras and software available because it's 'creative', I just wonder why? Like saying I got to work today using the the 2 ponies I had to catch in the field and tie to the wagon beforehand - was so much fun - hahaha. Love your channel - keep the good videos coming
LOL. It is fun catching those ponies! Definitely a throw back process.
Thank you so much for this!
You're so welcome! Thank you for watching!
Nice video ,with good info well communicated
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
wow, a video on film, nice!!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for commenting!
Love the videos on film ! Watched the comparison video from 2018 yesterday coincidentally. Looking to shoot more 5x4 film soon ! Thanks
That sounds great! Love shooting 4x5 film!
Wonderfull show thank you. Please produce more videos about film and film stocks and film cameras, developing etc. digital is so boring compared to film. I’m curious about some of the streaks in your images in the sky. one can see two dark lines going across the top of the sky in many of your images.. Was that from the scanning or from the developer process? And what lab do you recommend to have your film processed? Again thank you for your great show.
Thank you for your comment. The streaks in the images are from the Horizon Camera. It is vintage and has some flaws in the cartridge that rolls the film through so it scratches. We will eventually retouch those out of some of the images. We send our film to Richard Photo Lab in Santa Clarita, CA.
Thank you for a great show. It was wonderful to see the old Hasselblad in action . would you please do a review on the very new Hasselblad.
We are planning on it, as soon as Hasselblad sends us one to review!
Hi guys try shooting Tri-X film at 100 ASA and develop it appropriately it’s great for shooting head shots at that speed!
Thanks for sharing that tip!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the visit!
makes sense to rate at 800 and push 2 stops. thanks for the tip
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSlantedLens you're welcome. Always great stuff from your videos
pushed neopan 400 to 12800 with HC110...perfect!!!!!!
Nice! I bet they look amazing!
@@TheSlantedLens talking like 35 years ago...have to search for them...contrast and grain were perfect, I rember
I used HC110 in a stronger mix though
Hi, nice Vid.
What do you think What sould I do if Im on spot át flat light. Or just hars cold light What would be the best Iso if tese not low light situation?
T.
Hi, I ve asked already but what do you think do I need red filter or polarise filter for kodak tmax and tx400 for landsape?
Thankx
👍👍👍
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Jay! Ansel is slapping his forehead. Expose for shadows, DEVELOP for highlights, otherwise you are going to lose highlight detail.
Sorry if I said it in a confusing way. That is absolutely right. You expose for the shadows and process for the highlights. The reason I overexpose by shooting at 800 ISO is to give detail to the shadows.
Hi Jay. Thanks for your video, really interesting.
I would like to ask you if is possible to know the developing process you normally use and specially for the photos of this video. In this way I can have an idea of how the negative resulted.
Later I'll develop a roll of Tri-x shot at 320 ISO and developing it in Rodinal at 20° reducing 5% developing time, 12' 20", considering Rodinal is not so suitable for high speed films. Let's see.
You are way past me in the art of this process. I send mine out to a pro lab.
HI, its nice vid. So just I understand You exposed the 400 is film at 800 and developed at 1600? What do you think do i need tripod at landscape or enough exp at 800/16000 and handhold? Whats the best is iso at tx400 if I would like to use polarize f.and with red f? Do I need red f. at iso 800/1600. I just tried it at iso 400 boxspeed at polar.and red filter at sunny blue sky. Its was nice back sky.. I shot these on 35mm but now Im trying 120 format with handhold and tripod. I need an avarege good iso to use it in every weather conditon for landscapes.
It is always better to use a tripod. But you will be using fast shutter speeds and can probably hand hold most things until it gets pretty dark. As the sun goes down you will need a tripod.
Thanks,
Whats the best Iso for 400tx for landscape with tripod?
Dont you use polar f. Át landscape shooting for tx?
Best r
The darkroom is where all the magic is. Get one. Put it in your closet, or your bathroom etc but do it!
FYI metering this way usually only works in wide open areas. If you’re watching this video, make sure you realize this
It is fun to have a darkroom. It has been many years for me. Now I send it to a lab, but it is fun to process your own.
Kodak Tri-X and Kodak TMAX400 are very good for "dynamic range" photos if you expose at ISO 200 and develop in a thin solution for longer tie very gently, it gives very fine grey tones and you still have a very good contrast in your images. The Kodak TMAX400 are much better then the Tri-X !
This sounds like a great process. Sounds like you are a master at your craft!
@@TheSlantedLens Hi, yes I experimented a lot, I did use the Ansel Adams zone-system, but it was too complicated and took too much time, I also had always to carry at least five Hasselblad magazines. So I was very happy first working with the Tri-x and later the TMAX400 at ISO 200. I did a lot of black & white photography, both as a professional photographer and for private use. I can highly recommend to experiment with the TMAX400, I will recommend Kodak TMAX developer. I is best to develop in a small steel tank, I do not remember the thin resolution ratio, but it was 11 minutes, with 2 very gently agitation (turning the tank upside down) each 30. second. Remember to use a handheld light meter with invercone (or similar) for incident-light. If your a very good at "converting" color to a grey scale then a spot meter are fine. Good luck with the experimenting.
JP, What do you mean by print for the highlights?
Greg, I think Jay is missing a crucial step. See my reply above.
Because this is a combination of analog and digital process I expose for the shadows and then in the editing process I recover the highlights.
Sold off my film processing equipment years ago. There's no going back and I wouldn't want to. Have fun.
It is fun to dabble in but these days we send the film to a lab.
You said you’re exposing at 1600 and shooting at 800. I am a bit confused. Are you saying you’re metering at 800, but your development time will be based on 1600?
When I shoot I am overexposing a stop to get a dense negative. Then I am pushing the film 2 stops in developing. Most people who understand film shoot at 1/2 box speed. That is what 800 is, 1/2 the box speed of 1600.
@@TheSlantedLens I understand. Would you say that this process that you use is a
Tri X thing or for example could it work with Ilford HP5 400 speed film. I ask because I’ve got quite a bit of that film stock right now.
@@TheSlantedLens shot at ISO800 means underexposed,not overexposing,I don't understand.
@zhongyao-sc1lj He is using a film speed of 1600 with development times for 1600. That is a two stop push in processing from the development time for an ei of 400, box speed.. When he meters he is overexposing by one stop. He could meter at 1600, then add a stop of exposure from the meter reading of 1600, or just set the meter at an ei of 800. He is simply saying to overexpose one stop.
How about using the tri-x for the bright sun but pulling it 2 stops to ease up on the contrast a bit?
Yes, that is a valid way to use tri-x if you like that look!
lots of grain
Yes, that is what I love about it. I want the grain. It is a wonderful look!