Hey boss can you do a preferences for .8 mm nozzles on the slicer software I’ve been to places where the wackos told me to put it to 140 mm speeds and a .4 mm height ect as a beginner this is very confusing and the test print at this setting came out in the shape but like a slinky so it split into bits and pieces after removing the raft and supports
I am falling in love with your channel, Angus! I love your design challenge enthusiasm, how you are dynamic with solving problems, and your big unending smile.
Good video, and thanks! 👍 Some purely a technical issues with your wording: 1. kW-hr is a measure of _energy_ not a measure of power. (It can also be measured in Joules.) 2. The _rate at which energy used_ is known as the _power,_ and is measured in Watts. Just so you know...
J=W*s kW*h = 1000*W*3600*s = 3.6*10^6 J Joules is such a small unit that it has little use outside of science class. I think kW*h should be the S.I. unit, just like kg.
Hi Maker's Muse. Given that maintaining the temperature of the hotbed appears to be a large contributor to power usage, it would be really interesting to see how this compared if the Cocoon was put inside an enclosure (as you normally would for improved ABS printing). I suspect you might find a good power saving, as the heat loss (and therefore energy required to maintain the hotbed temperature) would be greatly reduced by the increased ambient temperature inside the enclosure.
Good review, I didn't actually realise you were in Australia. Just starting out with an Ender 3 and using your videos as a bible. thanks for the great content
Very informative video! I didn't think the differences would be that great (and for a shorter print time maybe it wouldn't be) but for a day long print it really shows the increase. Thanks for the video.
Great video as always. Here in the USA, most of us pay our electric bill every month, rather than quarterly. So while it may cost us a dollar or so to make each individual print, I don't think that the average hobbyist is going to go buck wild printing everything under the sun, and rack up $200 or $300 USD for electricity just in 3D printing alone. I personally am in the stage of wanting a printer and saving up to buy one, but without even having one, my summertime electric bill (which includes central A/C, all my appliances, TV's, computers, and whatever else) is about $250 a month. As a hobbyist, I could see doing a few prints a month on average. I do realize that once I do get my printer, I will be making more than that, in the early weeks and months, just to figure out how everything works, and to make any adjustments or upgrades, but once it is dialed in, like I said, just a few pieces a month. If someone IS using $200 to $300 a month in electricity just for 3D printing alone, on top of all the other electricity used in their homes, to me, it sounds like 3D printing is something far greater than just a hobby.........maybe a source of income (or out of control obsession) at that point.
Where i live it's $0.10 CAD per KWh so compared to the cost of the printer, the filament and my time, the electricity is almost nothing :-) Power and energy seem to confuse a lot of people, recently i was doing some research for a solar/battery project and found that it's very common for people to misuse/confuse units of KW with KWh. The easiest way to understand a derived unit is to look at its base units. Consider what it costs for heating and cooling... an electric space heater in north america is usually rated at 1500W so it sucks up energy pretty quickly. Central air conditioning is about 3500W and about 3000W for a clothes dryer.
Crucial? Dude, it works out to be 2c per hour or so for most printers. If that is a 'crucial factor for you, then you probably can't afford 3d printing.
@@imnota Electricity is not really expensive anywhere in the world. Even in the most costly of places, it is still very cheap when you compare how much a 3d printer uses. You don't know what you are talking about.
@@unkn0vvnmystery For companies it's even simpler, Makers Muse has actually referenced this several times in his own videos too. As a business you get much cheaper electricity (less in taxes mostly) so what a consumer might pay $0.25 for, a company typically pays around $0.05 for, meaning those ~$0.02 per hour per printer turns to ~$0.004 per hour per printer, so with 25 printers you'd be spending $0.10 per hour on electricity... This is assuming the more expensive electricity prices in West Europe, some parts of the USA, Canada and some countries in Europe have far cheaper electricity, sometimes as low as $0.02 per kWh, so really not even worth considering. This only becomes something to keep in mind if you are using hundreds and hundreds of printers 24/7 at which point electricity consumption might reach $1 per hour, the employees you will need to hire to remove finished prints, change filaments etc. will cost far more, this is a non-issue.
Thanks. I was wondering how much... I've been running mine, night and day, to make the parts for the lowrider2 cnc... Real eye opener. Thanks for your useful content!!!
I have one of the Aldi printers and ended up making an enclosure for it. It would be interesting to find out how much the enclosure reduces the cost of printing ABS??
Zoë Baldwin I've lost my numbers since stupidly not writing them down with my other printer stuff, but was surprised at how little bed insulation did for my power consumption overall. It definitely helped, but wasn't as much as I'd hoped for.
I think an enclosure wouldn't help too much with power consumption, but mainly print quality as the ambient temperature around the print is higher, leading to less delamination
Great video, I as wondering about cost per kilowatt hour. You answered exactly what I wanted. And I thought it was so interesting, you ran a print on an unheated bed. When I first got my printer, the bed heated to 50. The next time it printed, it heated to 60 and has been 60 ever since. I never bothered to change it. Now I'll definitely experiment with lowering the bed heat.
I have that exact same wattmeter I think :-). If you want to compare the motor usage excluded from the nozzle AND the heatbed, you can run a print on “dry run” setting, which won’t get you exact due to the extruder, but the extruder will be the least used motor during a print anyway, when you take away the heated elements. Just food for thought...
Many thanks Angus for this informative video, I bought one if these energy consumption meter few months ago but didn't bother to test. You are the best
Nice test Angus. I've done similar test on my printer. Power consumption from least to most: Motors, nozzle heater, bed heater, chamber heater. My printer sits at about 90w/h while printing PLA, but It can hit over 1200w/h while all the heaters are on.
Very interesting. There is a significant hidden benefit from the power consumed by the bed if you live in a cold clime and have electric heat like me. The bed is a fairly efficient heat source and the heat is released into the house, thereby reducing the load on the electric furnace of the house.
That’s why you need a enclosed printer like the Da Vinci Pro when printing ABS. It’s also helpful in saving energy, it holds the heat evenly inside itself very well.
I checked the power usage with a smart plug. At warmup ender 3V2 uses 270W, while printing PETG it varies around 100-130W. Isolating the heatbed helps to reduce power usage. The 3 stepper motors on my printer use about 24 watts
Nice video. I run several printers and use them as much as possible. For this year I am at almost 20000 hours of printing. Since I note how much electricity I use every week, I can tell you that I am using between 100 and 145 kWh per week on average. Before 3D printing that used to be about 30-35 kWh, so yes, the printers use a lot of energy. I might add that I use a lot of TitanX, ASA and PETG so these use higher bed temps all the time.
I'd be curious to hear a rundown on the differences they made between the latest iteration of the Cocoon Create and the I3 plus. Your review video was what sold me on the Plus to begin with (well, the Microcenter rebrand version) and I'd find it handy to know what sort of things might be retroactively applied as upgrades to the Plus.
Printing PLA without heatbed is a nice option, you wouldn't have to worry about the PID heatbed controls which, if not tuned properly, will keep changing the heatbed height, giving you horrible prints...(took me months to realize this on the i3 MK2. I never thought a PCB heatbed could expand/contract that much...)
I don't see how heatbed control would change heatbed height. At least I never had that problem. Sometimes heatbed does change height, so I just need to check it before each printing, or every few printings. Once it prints the first layer OK, it has no more issue. Maybe you should buy a better printer?
Makes sense that larger printers with larger heated beds use more power, my guess is that the large surface area needs more energy to stay warm because it has more surface area to transfer the heat away. Which makes me think if you build a thermal housing not only will you save on energy costs but also have better prints that won't "pull back" and delaminate like with the ABS print in the video. Awesome video, I really wish you tested the Raise N2+ without heat on the bed. Then, i wonder if printing matt black would use more power as it will radiate heat away from the bed a little bit more. That one's for funzies, i wanna see how little of a difference it would make lol
This was a quite interesting breakdown of the power costs in different scenarios. I might have to invest in a couple power meters for my printers, it would be a great way to start calculating the cost per print.
might be a few years old for a vid, but did you ever re-try this with a HotBox enclosure? The bed is going to be the biggest consumer of power because it, not only has to heat it, but keep it hot during that time. Hotends are much smaller, while yes hotter, you don't need as much power to make them hot and upkeep the temp. With an enclosure the ambient temperature is higher meaning the plate doesn't cool down as quickly making for shorter cycles of the hotbed needing to "run" to upkeep the temp. Also you need that hotbox for ABS or it will self destruct like that.
Consider that ambient temperature will be around 20°C and it accounts for the difference in power consumption; 20 to 60 is half of 20 to 100 and the temperature gradient is less, so the loss by convection would be slower.
If I recall correctly. My Delta, with a way overvolted heated bed running at 28.5v on a 24v bed. And a heated chamber and a hot end running at around 250 -260c. My printer uses around 275w/hour on average, although the first 30minutes the machine uses nearly 400w.
Adding thermal insulation to the heated bed should help lower those values. My aluminium heated bed takes quite some time to cool down, around 5-10min to reach ambient from 50*C. The rest is up to the power suply efficiency and the thermal efficiency of the system. A hotend block covered in several layers of kapton should consume quite less than one without (you can touch mine with your finger and you wont get burned). I dont think steppers have much of a difference between nema 17 and 23. Maybe im wrong and nema23 have better efficiency. But having a fast printer sure will make a difference because you wont have as much heat lose from the bed as with a slow printer so high accelerations (2000+) are a must.
if you put your printer inside a enclosure with moderate heat insulation (e.g. aluminum insulation all around the inner walls of the enclosure), you could save further more electrical power. Most of the electricity consumed is to to keep the hot bed and hot end temperature at constant, but relatively speaking, the hot bed wastes more heat as the surface area is much greater than the hot end. Having an enclosure sure will helps conserve the heat much better, in turn reduces the duty cycle of hot bed heating element. .
This actually makes a lot of sense. Electric heating is about the most ineffective way to use electricity and heat is a huge factor in deciding what size of transformer and wire is used throughout the electrical industry. I wonder how big of bed you would need before it is easier and more cost effective to go with propane or natural gas.... I know that the head will always be electric but at some size, I could definitely see heating the bed or print chamber with natural gas or propane.
It's also crazy to think that Australian Aldi's sells 3D printers. Here in the US in the midwest they're just a discount grocery store. Sell stuff off of pallets instead of shelves. Has to be the same company; same exact logo!
I run off grid just using solar power so power consumption is a big deal. I'll often place paper towel strips or thin sheets of foam around the edges of my print bed when doing smaller prints to help insulate the bed and reduce power consumption.
If you table the results and convert them, you get this table a. 1.9 Kw in 23hr = 82.6 watts / hr b. 2.7 Kw in 23hr = 117.3 watts / hr c. 0.9 Kw in 23hr = 39.1 watts / hr d. 0.5 Kw in 10hr = 50 watts / hr And the winner is, C with 39.1 Watts per hour as the lowest consumption print.
No: the costs of energy are the energy it takes to make the same print as Angus showed. If your printer is only using 10 Watts but takes 3 days, on your calculation this is the winner but in total this printer is using much more energy before the print is finished. By the way you wrote Kw but you mean "KwH" (KWh). If you would use 0,9 Kw in 23h, you would use 0,9*23 = 20.7 KWh ... a lot more per print (and I'm happy it is not). By the way, I can turn the heater in the room down or even off when it it printing, so in wintertime the energy-consumption is almost the same with or without printing (If I will use 1 KWh in the printer for heating or 1 KWh in the heater makes no difference, temperature in the room stays the same).
@@elvinhaak Fast print can be tuned via gcode, but you have a point. A practical testing is to test each machine until its printing quality is below acceptable quality at X% chance. This can be a very costly test, and only worth it if you run a huge printing farm.
Takeaway has to be that bed heating (temperature difference to ambient and bed size) x print time is by far the most significant factor. Comparing the Cetus and unheated Cocoon Create shows similar power consumption rates. So, if you could get a good quality print from the Cocoon Create at higher speeds, you could reduce the power consumption. Adding a thermally insulating enclosure would make a difference, as it would significantly reduce the rate at which heat is lost by the system and so the cost of running the bed (it'll tick on for less time). Enclosure is essential for ABS of course; it would be interesting to do the ABS print with the same settings but a decent enclosure.
A thing to consider, using thicker layers significantly reduces print time and electricity expenses (and also printer mechanics wear). By the way, in Novosibirsk, Russia the current price of electricity is 0.039€ per kW*h. My Flsun QQ-S consumes about 100-110 Wt while printing with heated bed at 70C so for 10 hour print it is less than 0.5€. At the same time it can spend about 2.5€ worth of plastic. However, I think I'd try printing PLA without heated bed and see how much it can save.
The CR-10S Pro uses about 500 watts of power at 60 degrees bed and 150 degrees nozzle (not quite printing temperatures, but it is what I was using to troubleshoot a power supply issue I was having. Someone else was kind enough to measure how much their working printer used. Mine was maxing out at under 400 watts and their working one was using just a hair over 500 watts making it clear that my power supply was faulty.)
The term KWh is right no matter what everyone else said. Running my Malyan M200 with the heatbed on PLA Settings only uses 60watt per houre of printing. Without it it's even using less then the cetus.
I think the people who make plastic mini greenhouses with zipper door access are missing a trick. They could make square box covers into the walls of which mini fans could be fitted to circulate the warm air around a printer which prevents delamination. Worth DIY making one at home: plastic sheeting, glue, tape, + micro fans. Stick it to the table with simple cross brace fitted to the printer top bar it'll create a localised warm ambient temp without the expense of a solid enclosure.
The problem with this test method is that you don't get a result for individual parts of the printer. So here's some theoretical stuff: The nozzle doesn't matter at all. Even if you would have to heat it to 400°C like a soldering iron it would still use the 90% of the required energy in the first 2 minutes. The heated bed is not that much different. You use high power to heat it up but much less to keep it warm. The hotter you heat the aluminum bed the more it cools down per time unit. At a temperature of around 55°C you will have to wait more than 30 sec to see it cooling down just a single degree C at room temperature. So printing with a bed close to 60°C also dos not consume that much after heating. The steppers are more consuming. The problem is that they consume almost the same energy no matter if they spin or not, as long they're activated. When you have a large print with a layer time of several minutes, one might think that the z axis doing a little layer step every layer consumes much less power that the x and y axis, which are moving the whole time. This is wrong. Holding the stepper in one place has 100% at a certain phase the whole time. A moving stepper builds up energy one phase after another resulting in a lower power consumption (without load). And the last part is the electronics. These cheap arduino boards are power hungry. Instead of a desktop cpu they can't set individual sectors into deep sleep. So even when your printer is finished printing and stays in idle some hours because you e.g. printed over night it still has a pretty high power consumption for basically doing nothing at all.
It costs CAD$0.08/KWh here in Ottawa, Canada. It might not sound much, but it adds up quick. This is the main reason I print only if I need it bad. I bought some white PLA and will be switching to it from ABS. It should smell less nasty too. I am not sure if ABS is necessary anymore with today's PLAs. It was a shitty choice a few years ago, but now I think they've got in dialed-in, and the final prints will be just as strong and durable as ABS. Good video that makes one think about pissing one's hard-earned money, down a socket!
an easy way to test how much power the motors would make over the print is set the print temp to 0 C and print the wheel, obviously you won't have filament loaded. It would be kind of weird printing something over 20 hrs and not getting anything out of it lol but you would know how much the motors use but you don't really need 20 hrs you could just run the first hr or 2 or 3, the more hours you print the closer the average you will get, but you should have a good idea over 3 hours.
I've never used an FDM printer, only SLA. I wonder if you were to take that delaminated wheel and heat it up while something heavy on top would it fix the gaps?
I was wondering about this for my SLA printer recently since my one 3" figure took 36 hours to print. That's something to keep in mind if you're selling prints.
Angus, I'd be curious to see how much this would change with an enclosure. Any chance of a follow up video? Love the videos keep up the great work brother!
Great as always Angus. I've had one of those power meters for months, brought it for exactly this purpose. Must take it out of the box one day :-) Sadly I clogged the nozzle on my beloved MK2 yesterday, also got a tiny drill bit stuck in it trying to clear it (cold pull didn't work) Waiting for a new hardened nozzle. Might try the power meter on the Sigma though.
If your printing with material like ABS you need to have it insulated to stop delamination. Would really increase the power efficiency of your unit too! The Coccoon create was completely exposed to 20 degree room temperatures while the other was nicely stuck in a cupboard area
Please do a video wattage usage of the Elegoo Jupiter or large resin printers. This topic is very useful for people that live off grid and want to get into 3D printing
The motors barely use any of that to run, however the heat takes an emense amount of energy. This is because the motors are designed to be fairly energy efficient. However energy inefficiency means the energy not used to perform a task is let off as heat, so whenever you try to heat something it is pretty much designed to be as energy inefficient as possible, the higher the temperature the less efficient it becomes, it takes a lot of energy to heat something so it takes a lot of electricity
Hey Angus, I can say I precede you by 3 days, bought the same wattmeter but I didn't do the long time prints like you did, I just tested what the power is with just hotend on and while printing, for my printer hotend on full is around 70W and while printing the printer stays at around 50W . For the things that you create that is pretty eficient I would say ! It would be very interesting and go into detail with the power consumed while bed is on fully, of course bed at 100degC while consume much more than 60degC, actually the heated bed is the greatest consumer of power, I am little surprised that for the printer with the enclosed bed the consumption was so huge ... as the heat losses would be smaller, but it is a huge heavy machine so maybe the motion takes more power, also of course printing time will influence a lot so that's why comparing instantaneous power would be interesting . Also the efficiency of the PSUs is important, I think the laptop type power bricks are much more efficient than the cheap PSU ? Great video !
I think the most surprising thing to me was just how expensive electricity is in NSW. This might explain why Dave Jones of EEVBlog was so enthusiastic about putting solar panels on his house years back. It would probably be helpful to think of this cost relative to the cost of the filament in the print; it seems like you probably put at least 5x the power cost into each part in filament, no?
The heatbed has a huge influence in the consumption because it dissipates a higher amount of heat than the extruder. Most of the consumption goes to the heatbed.
With all that Aussie sun you should be running panels. You could probably eliminate your hydro bill. Yes initial start up can be costly as with most LTI's
might wanna try different slicers to compare for printing time ..... i.e. i done a print (side panel for a mini transmisssionline speaker) in both cura and slic3er where the cura version was done in just over 1/3rd of the time... settings for infill, skin thickness bottom and top etc were all the same .... so choosing the right slicer can really help
2 Kwh for a day compared to one kwh is basicly nothing. saving 10-20 cents on a potential reprint if the part warps is often not worth it. I can print around 600 grams a day of pla which cost 18 USD where i live at the cheapest. Even if just one out of 50 24hour prints fail i will spend way more on plastic than power just from that one failed print.
Great video. When doing anything tall in ABS you can really help delamination by upping the extrusion temperature so the layers adhere better, but I understand that is not the point of this video, and abs is not a great choice for tall things for sure. The power increase for ABS would have been even hotter of course. I have been known to run it up to 250 extrusion if I want really good layer adhesion.
bit late but if you insulate the machine (enclosure where you can) you can maintain the temps easier - meaning less energy cost to keep those higher temps (or even lower temps) the challenge here would be making an insulating enclosure for the machine(s) you wish to use.
Revamped Outdoors billed similar over here in the UK. Though I pay monthly. If I'm under they just add it to the next quarter if I'm over they'll refund it as credit on the next quarter and if it's a big enough difference come the end of 2 quarters, my monthly payments will adjust to compensate. So move into a big house but work away from home a lot. Bills will initially be very high, but come the second half of the year you'll be paying peanuts.
Most energy retailers here in Australia will give you the option of monthly payments if you struggle with quarterly bills, but the meter is still only read every 3 months! Also they won't mail paper bills if you choose this option, only you have an online-account & they notify you by email that it's due to be paid ( usually with a direct debit for a certain agreed amount)!
I try to schedule my longer prints, >6hrs, to run overnight as the electricity cost here drops to half price. I also run my Seti@Home client at night so as not to run up huge electric bills... :)
Would be interesting to see if having the printer in an enclosed box does help with the costs. The temperature from the heated bed and the nozzle is being dissipated into the environment, which virtually means endless dissipation. But if the 3d printer is enclosed the box would eventually heat up and help by preventing further dissipation. I don't think it will be a massive money saver but maybe it makes a difference...
you do not need to print to get the numbers. measure amps and print something for some minutes and then you calculate the kwh = volt*amps*h/1000 of print. the heated measure needs only preheat to measure. you can add now the amps of print and headed.
Bed from 60 to 100 degree isnt a massive jump? -Due to normal ambient temperature is around 20 degree, its a 100% jump? -And simple logic (alt physics), says the higher a heat difference, the greater a loss.. So the jump from 60 to 100 on bed, would theoretical bump the bed power consumption to double.. :)
You could probably reduce the power used by making a hot box for the 3D printer. If you keep the air around the printer hot, you don't need as much power to heat the print head and bed. Of course the higher Temperatur would also effect the properties of the printed parts, maybe it can prevent delamination, but maybe they fail because they don't harden fast enough while printing.
So my takeaway from this is: If it costs more to order the part than to make it, make it. If it doesn't exist anywhere but your head, it's priceless so you might as well make it. About the same as if you just think of the material cost, but it definitely adds a little bit of thought when someone offers to buy a part that uses $0.75 in materials but takes twelve hours to print. Also, this totally makes me think of those tiny half-cartesian bots (Do we even have a name for that style yet?) in a new light.
What do you mean half-cartesian? Cartesian with single sided support, Ormerod derivatives? Well you can print just as efficiently on something else, you just power off the bed and limit yourself to a small print size, and to low-shrinkage materials.
It would be interesting to see how the results differ if you were to build an insulating cover for your Aldi printer. I'd expect the power consumption to reduce significantly with much improved results too.
Awesome. Thanks for doing the research. Now I know what printer I can use to repair m deffences when the zombie apocalypse finally arrives and I only have my printer and a small battery . Genuinly though this is really useful. When I got into 3D printing a lot of nay sayers kept saying the plastic would cost too much to make it worth while. When they saw that a Kg kept me going for months they started saying it must cost too much in electricity. So thank you. Side note. I checked with my local council who pick up recycling at the curb. they DON'T need plastic to be marked and are more than happy to take scraps of PET . So I'm not even screwing the planet over when I make tough filament
be neat to see the wanhao ABS test again, with an enclosure, not for the better print quality it would provide, but power reduction. as the bed wouldn't have to work as hard to stay at temp.
At an electricity cost around here of about ten cents a KW hour I'm not going to worry about trying to save electric on 3D printing at those low KW hour numbers.
Aldi made a 3D Printer?!?!?!? I live in Texas, and here Aldi is little store that sells only groceries and produce. I dont know how big Aldi is in other countries, but it is the LAST store I ever expected to see a 3D printer in 😂🤣😂🤣😂
I just bought one of these, love it. Try ringing the 1300 support number though..."the number you have called is not connected" so if that's an example of CocoonCreate support in the future we will have a problem.
Look, every single one of these resellers of Chinese printers hasn't been the most knowledgeable and forthcoming with support, they just ship things around and take your money, they really don't know much about what they're selling, and any local/small manufacturer or reseller is prone to go out of business at any moment anyway. You lot just have to help each other troubleshoot via online communities and you can order original bits directly from Jinhua Wanhao Spare Parts Co. Ltd or find one of the many equivalent replacements.
Yeah fully aware of that, I was more making an observation regarding the likely fly-by-night operation that is CocoonCreate, set everything up in a rush to get them into Aldi and then likely disappear. Cheers.
Thanks for the shout-out, Angus! Great insight into the power consumption of different printers and materials.
Hey boss can you do a preferences for .8 mm nozzles on the slicer software I’ve been to places where the wackos told me to put it to 140 mm speeds and a .4 mm height ect as a beginner this is very confusing and the test print at this setting came out in the shape but like a slinky so it split into bits and pieces after removing the raft and supports
how its possible that cetus printer printe it in half amount of time?
If you lower the heat to reduce energy consumption, I guess you could say you…
*TURN DOWN FOR WATTS!*
Ohgod haha
Stop. Get some help.
XD
Aint No budy got time 4 that
i hate you so much right now
If it helps anyone: I tested my ender3 with a 9h print.
The hot end was at 205°C and the heated bed was 60°C. The printer drew an average of 70.1W.
soup health Drawing an average of 70 W for 9 hours is only .07 kW x 9h = 0.63 kWh
@@boarder2k7 that's not much
so less than a gaming pc or xbox
@@flamestoyershadowkill6400 waaaaay less
@@munzlp I agree
I am falling in love with your channel, Angus! I love your design challenge enthusiasm, how you are dynamic with solving problems, and your big unending smile.
Now is when I love living in a state that produces so much power, we only pay $0.027 /kwh.
Very informative video, thank you!!
Wow. That's even cheaper than the average Albertan pay at 4 cents per kilowatt.
Good video, and thanks! 👍
Some purely a technical issues with your wording:
1. kW-hr is a measure of _energy_ not a measure of power. (It can also be measured in Joules.)
2. The _rate at which energy used_ is known as the _power,_ and is measured in Watts.
Just so you know...
he didnt say it that way though
J=W*s
kW*h = 1000*W*3600*s = 3.6*10^6 J
Joules is such a small unit that it has little use outside of science class. I think kW*h should be the S.I. unit, just like kg.
Y. Z. what about just using megajoules
Y. Z. Its kWh not kW*h...
Hi Maker's Muse. Given that maintaining the temperature of the hotbed appears to be a large contributor to power usage, it would be really interesting to see how this compared if the Cocoon was put inside an enclosure (as you normally would for improved ABS printing).
I suspect you might find a good power saving, as the heat loss (and therefore energy required to maintain the hotbed temperature) would be greatly reduced by the increased ambient temperature inside the enclosure.
Good review, I didn't actually realise you were in Australia. Just starting out with an Ender 3 and using your videos as a bible. thanks for the great content
Thanks, I'm new to 3D printers and looking for data on electric comsumption for my Ender 3, now I know what to do.
Very informative video! I didn't think the differences would be that great (and for a shorter print time maybe it wouldn't be) but for a day long print it really shows the increase. Thanks for the video.
Your videos are educational, informative, and motivating. Thank you, Angus.
Great video as always. Here in the USA, most of us pay our electric bill every month, rather than quarterly. So while it may cost us a dollar or so to make each individual print, I don't think that the average hobbyist is going to go buck wild printing everything under the sun, and rack up $200 or $300 USD for electricity just in 3D printing alone. I personally am in the stage of wanting a printer and saving up to buy one, but without even having one, my summertime electric bill (which includes central A/C, all my appliances, TV's, computers, and whatever else) is about $250 a month. As a hobbyist, I could see doing a few prints a month on average. I do realize that once I do get my printer, I will be making more than that, in the early weeks and months, just to figure out how everything works, and to make any adjustments or upgrades, but once it is dialed in, like I said, just a few pieces a month. If someone IS using $200 to $300 a month in electricity just for 3D printing alone, on top of all the other electricity used in their homes, to me, it sounds like 3D printing is something far greater than just a hobby.........maybe a source of income (or out of control obsession) at that point.
Where i live it's $0.10 CAD per KWh so compared to the cost of the printer, the filament and my time, the electricity is almost nothing :-) Power and energy seem to confuse a lot of people, recently i was doing some research for a solar/battery project and found that it's very common for people to misuse/confuse units of KW with KWh. The easiest way to understand a derived unit is to look at its base units.
Consider what it costs for heating and cooling... an electric space heater in north america is usually rated at 1500W so it sucks up energy pretty quickly. Central air conditioning is about 3500W and about 3000W for a clothes dryer.
Ikr, really couldn't care less
I love this channel. it's heaven having a quality high tech channel made in Australia, with stuff that Australians can relate to. like power costs.👍👍
Can you please include power consumption in future reviews. It seems crucial.
Crucial? Dude, it works out to be 2c per hour or so for most printers. If that is a 'crucial factor for you, then you probably can't afford 3d printing.
@@jessejuliano8056 Bro, really depends, pretty sure that electricity can be expensive in some parts of the world.
@@imnota Electricity is not really expensive anywhere in the world. Even in the most costly of places, it is still very cheap when you compare how much a 3d printer uses. You don't know what you are talking about.
Jesse Juliano could be helpful to know if you what to run a 3D printing business.
@@unkn0vvnmystery For companies it's even simpler, Makers Muse has actually referenced this several times in his own videos too. As a business you get much cheaper electricity (less in taxes mostly) so what a consumer might pay $0.25 for, a company typically pays around $0.05 for, meaning those ~$0.02 per hour per printer turns to ~$0.004 per hour per printer, so with 25 printers you'd be spending $0.10 per hour on electricity...
This is assuming the more expensive electricity prices in West Europe, some parts of the USA, Canada and some countries in Europe have far cheaper electricity, sometimes as low as $0.02 per kWh, so really not even worth considering.
This only becomes something to keep in mind if you are using hundreds and hundreds of printers 24/7 at which point electricity consumption might reach $1 per hour, the employees you will need to hire to remove finished prints, change filaments etc. will cost far more, this is a non-issue.
Thanks. I was wondering how much... I've been running mine, night and day, to make the parts for the lowrider2 cnc... Real eye opener. Thanks for your useful content!!!
I have one of the Aldi printers and ended up making an enclosure for it. It would be interesting to find out how much the enclosure reduces the cost of printing ABS??
The effects of one would stack nicely with bed insulation I would think.
I would believe an enclosure would be a necessity these days for print quality and cost savings
Zoë Baldwin I've lost my numbers since stupidly not writing them down with my other printer stuff, but was surprised at how little bed insulation did for my power consumption overall. It definitely helped, but wasn't as much as I'd hoped for.
I think an enclosure wouldn't help too much with power consumption, but mainly print quality as the ambient temperature around the print is higher, leading to less delamination
Great video, I as wondering about cost per kilowatt hour. You answered exactly what I wanted. And I thought it was so interesting, you ran a print on an unheated bed. When I first got my printer, the bed heated to 50. The next time it printed, it heated to 60 and has been 60 ever since. I never bothered to change it. Now I'll definitely experiment with lowering the bed heat.
I have that exact same wattmeter I think :-). If you want to compare the motor usage excluded from the nozzle AND the heatbed, you can run a print on “dry run” setting, which won’t get you exact due to the extruder, but the extruder will be the least used motor during a print anyway, when you take away the heated elements.
Just food for thought...
Many thanks Angus for this informative video, I bought one if these energy consumption meter few months ago but didn't bother to test. You are the best
Nice test Angus. I've done similar test on my printer. Power consumption from least to most: Motors, nozzle heater, bed heater, chamber heater. My printer sits at about 90w/h while printing PLA, but It can hit over 1200w/h while all the heaters are on.
Very interesting. There is a significant hidden benefit from the power consumed by the bed if you live in a cold clime and have electric heat like me. The bed is a fairly efficient heat source and the heat is released into the house, thereby reducing the load on the electric furnace of the house.
That’s why you need a enclosed printer like the Da Vinci Pro when printing ABS. It’s also helpful in saving energy, it holds the heat evenly inside itself very well.
Thanks for that Angus. Glad you're enjoying the new iteration. Mine are going very well too. See you on the 24th
I checked the power usage with a smart plug. At warmup ender 3V2 uses 270W, while printing PETG it varies around 100-130W. Isolating the heatbed helps to reduce power usage. The 3 stepper motors on my printer use about 24 watts
Nice video.
I run several printers and use them as much as possible. For this year I am at almost 20000 hours of printing. Since I note how much electricity I use every week, I can tell you that I am using between 100 and 145 kWh per week on average. Before 3D printing that used to be about 30-35 kWh, so yes, the printers use a lot of energy.
I might add that I use a lot of TitanX, ASA and PETG so these use higher bed temps all the time.
I'd be curious to hear a rundown on the differences they made between the latest iteration of the Cocoon Create and the I3 plus. Your review video was what sold me on the Plus to begin with (well, the Microcenter rebrand version) and I'd find it handy to know what sort of things might be retroactively applied as upgrades to the Plus.
Printing PLA without heatbed is a nice option, you wouldn't have to worry about the PID heatbed controls which, if not tuned properly, will keep changing the heatbed height, giving you horrible prints...(took me months to realize this on the i3 MK2. I never thought a PCB heatbed could expand/contract that much...)
I don't see how heatbed control would change heatbed height. At least I never had that problem. Sometimes heatbed does change height, so I just need to check it before each printing, or every few printings. Once it prints the first layer OK, it has no more issue. Maybe you should buy a better printer?
Makes sense that larger printers with larger heated beds use more power, my guess is that the large surface area needs more energy to stay warm because it has more surface area to transfer the heat away. Which makes me think if you build a thermal housing not only will you save on energy costs but also have better prints that won't "pull back" and delaminate like with the ABS print in the video. Awesome video, I really wish you tested the Raise N2+ without heat on the bed.
Then, i wonder if printing matt black would use more power as it will radiate heat away from the bed a little bit more. That one's for funzies, i wanna see how little of a difference it would make lol
This was a quite interesting breakdown of the power costs in different scenarios. I might have to invest in a couple power meters for my printers, it would be a great way to start calculating the cost per print.
might be a few years old for a vid, but did you ever re-try this with a HotBox enclosure? The bed is going to be the biggest consumer of power because it, not only has to heat it, but keep it hot during that time. Hotends are much smaller, while yes hotter, you don't need as much power to make them hot and upkeep the temp. With an enclosure the ambient temperature is higher meaning the plate doesn't cool down as quickly making for shorter cycles of the hotbed needing to "run" to upkeep the temp. Also you need that hotbox for ABS or it will self destruct like that.
Sold. I’m going to test no heat to the bed. 5 years has brought around better beds for lots of hobby level printers.
Im starting a new small business and now I calculate we will only require $9 per month! Thanks for the research mate.
Consider that ambient temperature will be around 20°C and it accounts for the difference in power consumption; 20 to 60 is half of 20 to 100 and the temperature gradient is less, so the loss by convection would be slower.
If I recall correctly. My Delta, with a way overvolted heated bed running at 28.5v on a 24v bed. And a heated chamber and a hot end running at around 250 -260c. My printer uses around 275w/hour on average, although the first 30minutes the machine uses nearly 400w.
Adding thermal insulation to the heated bed should help lower those values. My aluminium heated bed takes quite some time to cool down, around 5-10min to reach ambient from 50*C.
The rest is up to the power suply efficiency and the thermal efficiency of the system. A hotend block covered in several layers of kapton should consume quite less than one without (you can touch mine with your finger and you wont get burned).
I dont think steppers have much of a difference between nema 17 and 23. Maybe im wrong and nema23 have better efficiency. But having a fast printer sure will make a difference because you wont have as much heat lose from the bed as with a slow printer so high accelerations (2000+) are a must.
if you put your printer inside a enclosure with moderate heat insulation (e.g. aluminum insulation all around the inner walls of the enclosure), you could save further more electrical power.
Most of the electricity consumed is to to keep the hot bed and hot end temperature at constant, but relatively speaking, the hot bed wastes more heat as the surface area is much greater than the hot end. Having an enclosure sure will helps conserve the heat much better, in turn reduces the duty cycle of hot bed heating element. .
This actually makes a lot of sense. Electric heating is about the most ineffective way to use electricity and heat is a huge factor in deciding what size of transformer and wire is used throughout the electrical industry. I wonder how big of bed you would need before it is easier and more cost effective to go with propane or natural gas.... I know that the head will always be electric but at some size, I could definitely see heating the bed or print chamber with natural gas or propane.
It's also crazy to think that Australian Aldi's sells 3D printers. Here in the US in the midwest they're just a discount grocery store. Sell stuff off of pallets instead of shelves. Has to be the same company; same exact logo!
I run off grid just using solar power so power consumption is a big deal. I'll often place paper towel strips or thin sheets of foam around the edges of my print bed when doing smaller prints to help insulate the bed and reduce power consumption.
If you table the results and convert them, you get this table
a. 1.9 Kw in 23hr = 82.6 watts / hr
b. 2.7 Kw in 23hr = 117.3 watts / hr
c. 0.9 Kw in 23hr = 39.1 watts / hr
d. 0.5 Kw in 10hr = 50 watts / hr
And the winner is, C with 39.1 Watts per hour as the lowest consumption print.
No: the costs of energy are the energy it takes to make the same print as Angus showed. If your printer is only using 10 Watts but takes 3 days, on your calculation this is the winner but in total this printer is using much more energy before the print is finished.
By the way you wrote Kw but you mean "KwH" (KWh). If you would use 0,9 Kw in 23h, you would use 0,9*23 = 20.7 KWh ... a lot more per print (and I'm happy it is not).
By the way, I can turn the heater in the room down or even off when it it printing, so in wintertime the energy-consumption is almost the same with or without printing (If I will use 1 KWh in the printer for heating or 1 KWh in the heater makes no difference, temperature in the room stays the same).
@@elvinhaak Fast print can be tuned via gcode, but you have a point. A practical testing is to test each machine until its printing quality is below acceptable quality at X% chance. This can be a very costly test, and only worth it if you run a huge printing farm.
The winner is D actually because it consumed less power in total.
Takeaway has to be that bed heating (temperature difference to ambient and bed size) x print time is by far the most significant factor. Comparing the Cetus and unheated Cocoon Create shows similar power consumption rates. So, if you could get a good quality print from the Cocoon Create at higher speeds, you could reduce the power consumption.
Adding a thermally insulating enclosure would make a difference, as it would significantly reduce the rate at which heat is lost by the system and so the cost of running the bed (it'll tick on for less time). Enclosure is essential for ABS of course; it would be interesting to do the ABS print with the same settings but a decent enclosure.
A thing to consider, using thicker layers significantly reduces print time and electricity expenses (and also printer mechanics wear).
By the way, in Novosibirsk, Russia the current price of electricity is 0.039€ per kW*h. My Flsun QQ-S consumes about 100-110 Wt while printing with heated bed at 70C so for 10 hour print it is less than 0.5€. At the same time it can spend about 2.5€ worth of plastic. However, I think I'd try printing PLA without heated bed and see how much it can save.
7¢ / kWh where I live. A 24hr print probably only costs me a quarter.
Bigger equals to no better. Great job Angus
The CR-10S Pro uses about 500 watts of power at 60 degrees bed and 150 degrees nozzle (not quite printing temperatures, but it is what I was using to troubleshoot a power supply issue I was having. Someone else was kind enough to measure how much their working printer used. Mine was maxing out at under 400 watts and their working one was using just a hair over 500 watts making it clear that my power supply was faulty.)
Yes I have wondered, thanks Angus!
The Cetus does now come with a heated bed, thanks for confirming that I made a good choice buying my son a Cetus.
Until he becomes mad at you for not being able to print anything large, or ABS.
here in the states, Aldi is a food store!
Aldi's a food store everywhere, but they have really random offers in store every now and then, like 3D printers haha It's a strange place
@@8BitJesus Germans have crazy ideas
One thing I would like on 3D printers is smart heat beds. The area used for printing should be the only bit which is heated.
Perfect just when I needed this
The term KWh is right no matter what everyone else said. Running my Malyan M200 with the heatbed on PLA Settings only uses 60watt per houre of printing. Without it it's even using less then the cetus.
Turning off the heat with ultrabase makes it redundant. I love the way ultrabase unsticks when it cools.
Thanks for this! Hoping for more info on electricity costs for running 3D printers.
excellent comparisons, thanks
I think the people who make plastic mini greenhouses with zipper door access are missing a trick. They could make square box covers into the walls of which mini fans could be fitted to circulate the warm air around a printer which prevents delamination. Worth DIY making one at home: plastic sheeting, glue, tape, + micro fans. Stick it to the table with simple cross brace fitted to the printer top bar it'll create a localised warm ambient temp without the expense of a solid enclosure.
The problem with this test method is that you don't get a result for individual parts of the printer. So here's some theoretical stuff:
The nozzle doesn't matter at all. Even if you would have to heat it to 400°C like a soldering iron it would still use the 90% of the required energy in the first 2 minutes.
The heated bed is not that much different. You use high power to heat it up but much less to keep it warm. The hotter you heat the aluminum bed the more it cools down per time unit. At a temperature of around 55°C you will have to wait more than 30 sec to see it cooling down just a single degree C at room temperature. So printing with a bed close to 60°C also dos not consume that much after heating.
The steppers are more consuming. The problem is that they consume almost the same energy no matter if they spin or not, as long they're activated. When you have a large print with a layer time of several minutes, one might think that the z axis doing a little layer step every layer consumes much less power that the x and y axis, which are moving the whole time. This is wrong. Holding the stepper in one place has 100% at a certain phase the whole time. A moving stepper builds up energy one phase after another resulting in a lower power consumption (without load).
And the last part is the electronics. These cheap arduino boards are power hungry. Instead of a desktop cpu they can't set individual sectors into deep sleep. So even when your printer is finished printing and stays in idle some hours because you e.g. printed over night it still has a pretty high power consumption for basically doing nothing at all.
Try >250 degrees on the extruder for ABS. The added adhesion from the extra heat prevents the cracking.
It costs CAD$0.08/KWh here in Ottawa, Canada. It might not sound much, but it adds up quick.
This is the main reason I print only if I need it bad. I bought some white PLA and will be switching to it from ABS.
It should smell less nasty too. I am not sure if ABS is necessary anymore with today's PLAs.
It was a shitty choice a few years ago, but now I think they've got in dialed-in, and the final prints will be just as strong and durable as ABS.
Good video that makes one think about pissing one's hard-earned money, down a socket!
an easy way to test how much power the motors would make over the print is set the print temp to 0 C and print the wheel, obviously you won't have filament loaded. It would be kind of weird printing something over 20 hrs and not getting anything out of it lol but you would know how much the motors use but you don't really need 20 hrs you could just run the first hr or 2 or 3, the more hours you print the closer the average you will get, but you should have a good idea over 3 hours.
I've never used an FDM printer, only SLA. I wonder if you were to take that delaminated wheel and heat it up while something heavy on top would it fix the gaps?
I was wondering about this for my SLA printer recently since my one 3" figure took 36 hours to print. That's something to keep in mind if you're selling prints.
Using a chamber helps to keep the heat in so that the heatbed won't need to work as hard, and it'll use less power overall.
Angus, I'd be curious to see how much this would change with an enclosure. Any chance of a follow up video? Love the videos keep up the great work brother!
Great as always Angus. I've had one of those power meters for months, brought it for exactly this purpose. Must take it out of the box one day :-)
Sadly I clogged the nozzle on my beloved MK2 yesterday, also got a tiny drill bit stuck in it trying to clear it (cold pull didn't work) Waiting for a new hardened nozzle.
Might try the power meter on the Sigma though.
If your printing with material like ABS you need to have it insulated to stop delamination. Would really increase the power efficiency of your unit too! The Coccoon create was completely exposed to 20 degree room temperatures while the other was nicely stuck in a cupboard area
i find printing at 270 degrees helps too, but that might be bad for the printer.
@@maxxiang8746 It's fine if your extruder unit is rated for it. Bed panels can take it
My Anet A8 uses about 90-120w from the wall. 60c bed, 215c nozzle. Basically nothing to worry about.
Please do a video wattage usage of the Elegoo Jupiter or large resin printers. This topic is very useful for people that live off grid and want to get into 3D printing
The motors barely use any of that to run, however the heat takes an emense amount of energy. This is because the motors are designed to be fairly energy efficient. However energy inefficiency means the energy not used to perform a task is let off as heat, so whenever you try to heat something it is pretty much designed to be as energy inefficient as possible, the higher the temperature the less efficient it becomes, it takes a lot of energy to heat something so it takes a lot of electricity
Hey Angus, I can say I precede you by 3 days, bought the same wattmeter but I didn't do the long time prints like you did, I just tested what the power is with just hotend on and while printing, for my printer hotend on full is around 70W and while printing the printer stays at around 50W .
For the things that you create that is pretty eficient I would say !
It would be very interesting and go into detail with the power consumed while bed is on fully, of course bed at 100degC while consume much more than 60degC, actually the heated bed is the greatest consumer of power, I am little surprised that for the printer with the enclosed bed the consumption was so huge ... as the heat losses would be smaller, but it is a huge heavy machine so maybe the motion takes more power, also of course printing time will influence a lot so that's why comparing instantaneous power would be interesting .
Also the efficiency of the PSUs is important, I think the laptop type power bricks are much more efficient than the cheap PSU ?
Great video !
I think the most surprising thing to me was just how expensive electricity is in NSW. This might explain why Dave Jones of EEVBlog was so enthusiastic about putting solar panels on his house years back. It would probably be helpful to think of this cost relative to the cost of the filament in the print; it seems like you probably put at least 5x the power cost into each part in filament, no?
Thank you for impaling my electricity bill 💟💟💟💟💟💟💟💟
The heatbed has a huge influence in the consumption because it dissipates a higher amount of heat than the extruder. Most of the consumption goes to the heatbed.
With all that Aussie sun you should be running panels.
You could probably eliminate your hydro bill.
Yes initial start up can be costly as with most LTI's
Hydro? I would be suprised they even understand that expression. Hydro Electricity is 8% of their electricity production. They are not Quebec ;)
might wanna try different slicers to compare for printing time .....
i.e. i done a print (side panel for a mini transmisssionline speaker) in both cura and slic3er where the cura version was done in just over 1/3rd of the time...
settings for infill, skin thickness bottom and top etc were all the same ....
so choosing the right slicer can really help
It's much cheaper to print PLA with unheated bed. It also generates significantly lower total power load for a print station.
Ryan Huang I like your thought process as it will also add more amp load to a circuit or breaker.
But it may increase warping...reprints are not cheaper either....something to consider
2 Kwh for a day compared to one kwh is basicly nothing. saving 10-20 cents on a potential reprint if the part warps is often not worth it. I can print around 600 grams a day of pla which cost 18 USD where i live at the cheapest. Even if just one out of 50 24hour prints fail i will spend way more on plastic than power just from that one failed print.
@@craazyy22 I think you meant .18 or 18 cents but I think most people got it.
No i meant that 600 grams of pla cost 18 full USD. Thats why risking a failed print is stupid.
Note to self: make insulated build chamber if attempting ABS
Great video. When doing anything tall in ABS you can really help delamination by upping the extrusion temperature so the layers adhere better, but I understand that is not the point of this video, and abs is not a great choice for tall things for sure. The power increase for ABS would have been even hotter of course. I have been known to run it up to 250 extrusion if I want really good layer adhesion.
bit late but if you insulate the machine (enclosure where you can) you can maintain the temps easier - meaning less energy cost to keep those higher temps (or even lower temps) the challenge here would be making an insulating enclosure for the machine(s) you wish to use.
Every quarter? Dang we're billed monthly in the states, I use zwave plus smart plug it's nice to know the usage. Great video!
Revamped Outdoors billed similar over here in the UK. Though I pay monthly. If I'm under they just add it to the next quarter if I'm over they'll refund it as credit on the next quarter and if it's a big enough difference come the end of 2 quarters, my monthly payments will adjust to compensate.
So move into a big house but work away from home a lot. Bills will initially be very high, but come the second half of the year you'll be paying peanuts.
It's weirder in Belgium. We pay a fixed amount monthly and then get a final bill at the end of the year.
Interesting, it's always fun to hear about the day to day life of people around the world. The internet is awesome.
Its every month for businesses here and every 2 months for residential. Not sure what company does quarters here in Australia.
Most energy retailers here in Australia will give you the option of monthly payments if you struggle with quarterly bills, but the meter is still only read every 3 months! Also they won't mail paper bills if you choose this option, only you have an online-account & they notify you by email that it's due to be paid ( usually with a direct debit for a certain agreed amount)!
I alway enjoy your videos good information and nicely presented. Best regards Chris
I try to schedule my longer prints, >6hrs, to run overnight as the electricity cost here drops to half price.
I also run my Seti@Home client at night so as not to run up huge electric bills... :)
Would be interesting to see if having the printer in an enclosed box does help with the costs. The temperature from the heated bed and the nozzle is being dissipated into the environment, which virtually means endless dissipation. But if the 3d printer is enclosed the box would eventually heat up and help by preventing further dissipation. I don't think it will be a massive money saver but maybe it makes a difference...
you do not need to print to get the numbers. measure amps and print something for some minutes and then you calculate the kwh = volt*amps*h/1000 of print. the heated measure needs only preheat to measure. you can add now the amps of print and headed.
Bed from 60 to 100 degree isnt a massive jump?
-Due to normal ambient temperature is around 20 degree, its a 100% jump? -And simple logic (alt physics), says the higher a heat difference, the greater a loss..
So the jump from 60 to 100 on bed, would theoretical bump the bed power consumption to double.. :)
You could probably reduce the power used by making a hot box for the 3D printer. If you keep the air around the printer hot, you don't need as much power to heat the print head and bed. Of course the higher Temperatur would also effect the properties of the printed parts, maybe it can prevent delamination, but maybe they fail because they don't harden fast enough while printing.
So my takeaway from this is: If it costs more to order the part than to make it, make it. If it doesn't exist anywhere but your head, it's priceless so you might as well make it. About the same as if you just think of the material cost, but it definitely adds a little bit of thought when someone offers to buy a part that uses $0.75 in materials but takes twelve hours to print.
Also, this totally makes me think of those tiny half-cartesian bots (Do we even have a name for that style yet?) in a new light.
What do you mean half-cartesian? Cartesian with single sided support, Ormerod derivatives? Well you can print just as efficiently on something else, you just power off the bed and limit yourself to a small print size, and to low-shrinkage materials.
Thank you so mutch! I gonna print onley the first layers pla from now with a hb!👍
It would be interesting to see how the results differ if you were to build an insulating cover for your Aldi printer. I'd expect the power consumption to reduce significantly with much improved results too.
Awesome. Thanks for doing the research. Now I know what printer I can use to repair m deffences when the zombie apocalypse finally arrives and I only have my printer and a small battery .
Genuinly though this is really useful. When I got into 3D printing a lot of nay sayers kept saying the plastic would cost too much to make it worth while. When they saw that a Kg kept me going for months they started saying it must cost too much in electricity. So thank you.
Side note. I checked with my local council who pick up recycling at the curb. they DON'T need plastic to be marked and are more than happy to take scraps of PET . So I'm not even screwing the planet over when I make tough filament
Very useful information. Thnx a ton
be neat to see the wanhao ABS test again, with an enclosure, not for the better print quality it would provide, but power reduction. as the bed wouldn't have to work as hard to stay at temp.
Another awesome project! I need to retire soon so I can have time to work on everything I want to do!
Interesting. Do you think that the enclosed atmosphere of the Raise was one of the reasons it did better with the ABS wheel?
Oh for sure, it's the higher ambient temperature that makes it print ABS so much better
Beige The Color - having the whole room at 50°C would cost a lot more. Better to have just the printer it self encapsulated.
Very good!
Good advice, thanks man
Great video, so informative.
At an electricity cost around here of about ten cents a KW hour I'm not going to worry about trying to save electric on 3D printing at those low KW hour numbers.
Aldi made a 3D Printer?!?!?!?
I live in Texas, and here Aldi is little store that sells only groceries and produce. I dont know how big Aldi is in other countries, but it is the LAST store I ever expected to see a 3D printer in 😂🤣😂🤣😂
I just bought one of these, love it. Try ringing the 1300 support number though..."the number you have called is not connected" so if that's an example of CocoonCreate support in the future we will have a problem.
Look, every single one of these resellers of Chinese printers hasn't been the most knowledgeable and forthcoming with support, they just ship things around and take your money, they really don't know much about what they're selling, and any local/small manufacturer or reseller is prone to go out of business at any moment anyway. You lot just have to help each other troubleshoot via online communities and you can order original bits directly from Jinhua Wanhao Spare Parts Co. Ltd or find one of the many equivalent replacements.
Yeah fully aware of that, I was more making an observation regarding the likely fly-by-night operation that is CocoonCreate, set everything up in a rush to get them into Aldi and then likely disappear. Cheers.