Paul Robinson on FA of 'Lucid Dreaming' (V15 / 8C)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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About The Guest:
Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade.
We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent diagnosis of autism spectrum disorder, climbing 1000+ V11s or harder, his analogy of climbing as a book, hardest FAs, trying to climb V16, travel routines, filmmaking, and much more
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"No one had cameras back then, they were so expensive"🤣🤣🤣 Hilarious.
I'm curious about the grade here in retrospect. Paul gave it V16 initially, then downgraded it himself to V15 prior to any repeats after he tried some other climbs. Now it's been 14 years and this route in a very popular area has seen only 3 repeats (I think). That's the same amount of repeats as Alphane got in the first couple months. Does this warrant the retrospective upgrade to V16? What are Paul's thoughts on this? Plenty of other hard boulders were upgraded retrospectively when V16 became a widely accepted grade, but not this one. Is it actually a grade easier than other V16s?
Also alex megos tried it for some sessions, megos is so fucking strong, is probably harder than 8c
@@lucaa4480 3 repeats I'm aware of are: Daniel Woods 2014, Alex Megos 2015, Jimmy Webb 2020. These guys are all V16 capable, but V16 wasn't really an accepted grade until 2016 when Nalle called BOD V17 and a bunch of stuff got upgraded retrospectively to V16. It was called Alex Megos hardest climb ever at the time because he spent 11 days on it.
@@chazott Toru Nakajima did lucid as well
@@leowei9065 thanks! I see Toru has done a V16 first ascent after a break in 14 days (Epitaph). Lucid took him 16 days. I wonder how long Burden will take him.
@@chazott exactly. First repeat of a V16 without a downgrade was Dave Graham on Creature from the black lagoon the same month that Nalle did Burden and called it 17. Those two things are what solidified V16 as a grade that existed and had been done
V15 isnt 8C+ but 8C ;)
Still a V6 in my gym tho
Yes but probably lucid is 8c+
Lucid was originally 8C+ and should potentially see an upgrade back to that grade
@@aidanjohnson7571 idk bout that lol random comp kids almost did it ina weekend
@@otpeezy5788who lol
I thought this was a video about actual lucid dreaming in my recommended 😭
🧢🧢
Somebody needs to get the story from the cameramen 😂 no way they just left Paul hangin
Is it so hard to imagine that, having done one of the lowest-percentage sequences in the world into a 50 foot V6 slab highball, you might not feel compelled to repeat it for cameras just to convince drama-hungry armchair climbers?