The Challenge for Climbers with Building Finger Strength | ft. Yves Gravelle

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About The Guest:
Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers.
We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
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[@davidhelman3045]

Here's how I interpreted it, do one cycle to build muscles in the forearms then another cycle to optimize that new muscle for performance. Don't overtrain or focus on too many things. Quality over quantity.

[@stretch8390]

It's good advice but the word cycle is often used to indicate a period of time on PEDs which is a bit unfortunate haha

@@stretch8390 He meant training cycle of course!

[@НиколайТобиас]

​@@stretch8390 man, training cycle is a common concept. Macrocycle and mircocycle too

[@mitchgowing2336]

Need to build strength and technique together. This method will waste a lot of time.

[@Tan12]

@@mitchgowing2336 This is talking about the strength training done as a supplement to actual climbing, nothing stopping you from continuing to develop your climbing technique through your actual climbing sessions alongside either cycle.

[@molimba]

its quite simple how to continually progress: you train strength until you plateau which i define by no progress in 3 sessions. Then you switch to endurance base exercises like repeaters for 3-5 weeks or until you plateau with that. again 3 sesh you didnt add another rep to your repeater set. You go back to strength and restart the cycle. Ur Welcome.

I think experienced climbers would benefit from a training plan that focus on ONE specific area of improvement (strength, endurance, power, etc.)
at a time, with the other areas trained at a maintenance level.
As far as hypertrophy is concerned, I see it as a "side effect" of getting stronger, hypertrophy itself is not an attribute that climbers want to develop. We're not bodybuilders, although it's kinda cool to look jacked right?
In other words, its mostly a by-product of endurance and strength training and it will come, albeit more slowly than if explicitly targeted, the more you train.

[@thenuggetclimbing]

In the context of this video, Yves is talking about forearm hypertrophy.

[@alvaroc6326]

Yes. I believe climbing training should transition from quantity to quality as you grow older into the sport and life in general. Shorter but intense sessions and nice calm rest days.

[@tommy5329]

Love hearing insights from Yves 💪

[@badbunnyTUBE]

Quality over quntity