Never occurred to me that these position lights can be scratch built. I have all the tools and yet, dumbed by just using on basics. A great tutorial Matey... I’m on it right away...
Really good tip and demonstration, thanks for that. There are some aircraft where the bulb is not coloured but the fairing is. I have a collection of bits of cleared coloured plastic; red, blue and green which then gets shaped and polished in the same way you have done with the CA
Thanks for the CA tip. I've been using this technique for over 25 years except for using epoxy instead of CA. On my older models the epoxy eventually starts to turn yellow. Next time I'm going to use CA.
I feel that the CA is much more convenient, I've tried epoxy as well and didn't like the mess and smell. And now that you say it gets yellow over time its a no go for me.
Have you tried a product called "glue'n'glaze" by a company called deluxe materials. It may be an alternative for the glazing. I personally use it for attaching canopies and for making windows in scratch built buildings for my model railway layout.
@@MMScaleModels it's based on PVA glue but dries clear, I'm not sure on hardness as I use it for windows and don't stick my finger in them but I have used it on model locomotives.
I see, i doubt its suitable for such lights though. For smal windows and ligts with frames yes but if the shape has to be formed after drying some different properties are needed IMHO.
I have some models with solid plastic and spots for lights just like the one in the video. Is there anyway to paint the plastic? I know that Tamiya makes a clear red and blue, but I am having a hard time acquiring that. Can I mix any paints or use gloss paint with a clear coat?
@@MMScaleModels Thank you for the information - as well as the incredibly fast reply. Your videos are highly informative, and I look forward to trying some of these things out.
I don't know why, but I really appreciated hearing the tactile audio from the work you were doing.
I do like the sounds as well, unfortunately sometimes outside noises get recorded as well
Another bright idea. Most illuminating! 💡
Thanks 👍
Very cool. Been wanting to do this on a few models and now I know how. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks mate, happy to help👍🍻
Great tutorial! Thank you for taking the time to share your tips with us....happy modeling ;)
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Your Video is very helpfull, thank you.
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Your very smart sir,great tips
Thanks mate!
Very useful technique, thanks!
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Awesome tutorial. Thanks you very much.
Hope it helps mate 👍
Very helpful tutorial! 10x for sharing and happy modeling :-)
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Never occurred to me that these position lights can be scratch built. I have all the tools and yet, dumbed by just using on basics. A great tutorial Matey... I’m on it right away...
Happy to help mate, sometimes very obvious things slip in modeling and life likewise. Happens to me all the time.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks mate 👍
Amazing , fast and clever tutorials! Thank you for your time and effort 👍
Thanks mate, appreciate your input 👍🍻
@@MMScaleModels Can you please tell me if this effect can only be obtained with such glue (SUPER ATTAK CONTROL) or anything glue?
@@artemcherednichenko8183 as long as ot is cyanoacrilate it should work. Test the glie you have in mind and you'll have a definitive answer :)
What an awesome tip! Great video!
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Really good tip and demonstration, thanks for that. There are some aircraft where the bulb is not coloured but the fairing is. I have a collection of bits of cleared coloured plastic; red, blue and green which then gets shaped and polished in the same way you have done with the CA
Yes that's the way to go with colored housings, unfortunately they sometimes can brake off while trimming. Which is rather annoying.
Thank you sir 🙏
Thanks for watching mate
Thanks for the ideas you are sharing with us. I use clear resin with the same effect, I didn't know that CA glue is so transparent when it's dry :).
Glad it was helpful!
Congratulations, buddy. Good job.
Thanks mate 👍🍻
very nice tip...!
Thanks for watching mate 👍🍻
wow .😎.
👍
Great!
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Thanks for the CA tip. I've been using this technique for over 25 years except for using epoxy instead of CA. On my older models the epoxy eventually starts to turn yellow. Next time I'm going to use CA.
I feel that the CA is much more convenient, I've tried epoxy as well and didn't like the mess and smell. And now that you say it gets yellow over time its a no go for me.
would it have worked with a canopy glue of some sort ? Like microscale Kristal klear ? or any other of the same sort
Usually those cannot be sanded.
Excellent video. I have never seen this done with CA glue very good idea. Do you think it would work with Microscale Kristal Klear ?
Thanks mate, i don't think that the kristal clear will work because you have to be able to sand it... but i may be wrong 🙂
Have you tried a product called "glue'n'glaze" by a company called deluxe materials. It may be an alternative for the glazing. I personally use it for attaching canopies and for making windows in scratch built buildings for my model railway layout.
Haven't came across that, does it dry hard or it is more like white glue?
@@MMScaleModels it's based on PVA glue but dries clear, I'm not sure on hardness as I use it for windows and don't stick my finger in them but I have used it on model locomotives.
I see, i doubt its suitable for such lights though. For smal windows and ligts with frames yes but if the shape has to be formed after drying some different properties are needed IMHO.
@@MMScaleModels you might be right, just a thought
I have some models with solid plastic and spots for lights just like the one in the video. Is there anyway to paint the plastic? I know that Tamiya makes a clear red and blue, but I am having a hard time acquiring that. Can I mix any paints or use gloss paint with a clear coat?
There are transparent paints from tamiya and mr.hobby. Also you can add a drop of color into some clear varnish to get a transparent paint.
@@MMScaleModels Thank you for the information - as well as the incredibly fast reply. Your videos are highly informative, and I look forward to trying some of these things out.
You are welcome, I am trying to reply to everyone. Sometimes it takes a while but eventually I get to respond :)
do you do something similar with 1/72 too?
Yes, only without the drilling. Instead I just cut a small section an glue it in place.
Отлично 👍 а для строевого огня, что использовал не понял 🤔
Sorry but I don't understand your question
How did you wire the lights to the power supply?....
🙂 those are not actual lights, just representation
NOICE
my god, which polishing file is that, it's super useful
It is something I bought from the beauty section in the pharmacy... I think they can be found as nail polishing blocks
@@MMScaleModels HAHAHAHA alright let me find some nail files
Can i do this with landing lights?
If they are not too big, Sometimes CA can act weird when big quantity is poured in a bowl (the landing light housing)
@@MMScaleModels its in 1/72
What is the glue CA?
Super glue
As JHard said it's super glue, aka Cyano Acrylate hence the CA
When I work with CA glue, it always turns white and foggy, I've never before seen it to be so clear. Do you know what might be the reason?
Probably too much glue
Never seen this done using superglue before- bravo!
It's very good 👍
this glue have a code, you can post this code? please
the glue is loctite super bond universal, there is a code but i don't know if it is a product number: 2106317
Это половина дела ведь можно сделать, чтобы мигали 🤔
I am not a fan of blinking models TBF
Small but precious tips that really enhance the final looks of any kit! Thanks!
Often times the small details make the difference... thats if they remain visible 😄