How to improve on the basic brick rocket stove
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 мар 2013
- People have asked about variations of the improved brick rocket stove, so here are some of the answers. We check out a higher chimney, combined with the better venting system. I asked about the safety of using concrete bricks in construction, and about the possibility of combining regular bricks with them. See what we discovered!
Please order my book: "Bushcraft Basics: A Common Sense Wilderness Survival Handbook" at your local independent book store: www.indiebound.org/book/97815...
or on Amazon: tinyurl.com/bushcraft-basics-...
or at Barnes and Noble: tinyurl.com/Barnes-and-Noble
Thanks! 
Хобби
I was soldering on my back concrete step with a propane torch on low. The corner of the step suddenly exploded with great force. It took about a 1 inch pyramid of concrete off the corner. It must have blown away from my face, but I never forgot and I have an extremely healthy respect for concrete and heat--50 years later! I learned in Scouting that you use igneous rock for fire rings and not sedimentary rocks for the same reason.
I spent many years in masonry construction. Chimneys and fireplaces were our specialty.
Fireplace construction uses firebrick for the firebox and ceramic flueliners to carry the heated air out of your house.
It would take very intense heat for a concrete block to "explode". (Think cutting torch temperatures). Over time,they will deteriorate with heat. As mentioned below, the yellow fire brick, or chimney brick, is the only brick to use. They do not absorb heat. Not sure on the cost but it would be money well spent.
If you are just occasionally using a rocket stove, you should be ok with regular brick/block.
Also, if you are building a "permanent" rocket stove, don't use regular brick mortar for the fire brick. You will need a small bag of "fire clay". You mix with water just like mortar.
Great video. Never heard of a rocket stove before. Can't wait to build one.
Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback - please let me know how you come out with your stove. I've had no luck locating ceramic flueliners. I have not head of the yellow firebrick, so I will start looking.
I want to do a post about building a permanent rocket stove, but am waiting to get all the right stuff. A couple of masonry people checked out the construction of the stove and have given me some tips.
As it is right now, the stove in the video is supposed to be an emergency tool. I've had many people asking for advice on making a permanent structure and appreciate your shared knowledge.
Leon Pantenburg
Hi Sir,
I built my "rocket stove" a while back and absolutely love it. I am going to incorporate one into my new outdoor firepit/grill.
I probably "overbuilt it". I had a neighbor give me about 400 firebrick last fall and was wondering what to do with them. (I only used about 30 of them).
I am amazed at the efficiency and the heat it produces. High heat and very little ash.
I live outside of Cincinnati, in the country, and have all the fuel I need.
Don't worry about the flue liners unless you are building the stove within a structure and need to vent outside.
I love your other video's also.
I am sure you get a lot of "tips" but I think in this case, simple is better.
Hope all is well. Thanks again.
Greg
Survival Common Sense I recently was advised by a chimney inspector to get the ceramic flueliner and he was able to order and install it for me.
i have tried wood gas stoves, metal rocket stoves long and short and this and that.. and basically any way to cook using firewood i can think of.. and up till now the brick rocket stove (this design) is the best! once it's heated up it just goes like crazy.. big chunks of wood catch fire with no trouble (great for simmering)! this is the best in my opinion!
Absolutely - learning to improvise one of these stoves is much more valuable than merely knowing how to use the bricks.
Thanks for putting your new improved stove to the test. I did have questions about the concrete bricks but you cleared it up for me on this video, think i will opt for the real bricks. Thanks again and keep the videos coming, we all may need survival training when wall street is finished with us.
I owned a private campground in Colorado for years and we used concrete fire rings. The rings worked great and we never had any problems using concrete. The only problem we had was when someone would pour water on the fire ring while it was still hot.
Great instructional video on the rocket stove. Thanks for all your great videos.
Thanks for watching them! I appreciate the support!
If you can find fire-bricks that are both heat-resistant and light and spongy, the greater trapped air content will give you better insulation. Insulating the whole L tube of the rocket is an important part of maximising its efficiency; gives you higher temperatures at the top of the riser tube, and a cleaner, more complete burn, with that much more heat released. This is the heart of the first part of efficient rocket stove use; the second part is getting as much of that heat at the top of the riser into your pan. There, a skirt round the sides of the pot, with precise gapping above the riser-top, and around the sides, increases the overall effectiveness of your stove. And use a lid.
Proportions are important too: the x-sectional area of the whole tube needs to remain constant throughout, even if it changes its shape; and the riser height needs to be between two and half and three times the tube diameter, if it's round, or between two and a half and three times the side length, if it's square.
Those bricks are what i called engineering bricks (scotland) I used to build fireplaces and we used those bricks all the time. It wasn't a finish brick, It was for the rebuild before casing stones etc were built in front Or plastered. If they can survive the heat of a multi fuel stove. They can handle a little wood fire :)
Glad we could help!
Also you can use rocks, dirt, etc. to build this. It point I took away from your video was the technique, not necessarily the exact materials. I thank you for that.
Also.... I do agree. Bricks are everywhere. In a disaster situation where houses have been damaged there will be even more.
3:1 ratio works the best
example: 12" high to a 4" diameter hole
I just found these videos from your website and now I'm a subscriber :P Hope to learn a lot from you
thank you so much for this! Yours is the simplest and least expensive design I've seen. I'm moving in two weeks to a small farm in the Andes and I'm going to have so much to do (install solar, for one), that I'm not going to have time to make a permanent rocket stove (all my cooking will be outside) until I've settled in a bit. It's nice to know that I can make one of these very quickly to get me through the first weeks. Obviously, in an earthquake zone, loose bricks forever is not an option, but at least I'll be able to cook and feed everyone right away.
Please let me know how it works out for you. Then, share the technology with neighbors!
Love your videos v much, I have a flu today the fun videos uplift my spirit!
Thanks for your input. I have not had a problem with concrete bricks, but thought I should ask some experts.
Line the inside with flue tile. I have built a lot of chimneys :-) The base should have fire brick lining.
Good practical practice for the first-timer rocket stove builder. You need to mention using "fire bricks" which people have in their stand-alone fireplaces. I was told to use those. They are a little more expensive but won't break as quickly. You need to do some research that the taller flue creates more of a venturi effect, which increases the speed of the air, like air over a wing. But your design is good and portable. Easy to keep in a trailer or back of a truck for possible cooking needs. You can use pine cones or scrap wood from under a tree as well.
Check out the rest of the videos on the play list - they address some of these issues. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for sharing!
Great vid
You can turn the gas grill over and the can will be closer to the bricks. Also when building the stove, build in air inlet space on the South and East sides with removable bricks
It kind of reminds me of a mini version of the Russian furnace. At least, what I can remember, from years ago. Yours is very interesting. I will have to try it.
I made one of theirs a few years ago out if brinks I rarly used it it's still just sitting there I also made some mud to act like mortar for the brick since the ones I had were not so good I also didn't have any mesh at the time so I used some brinks that had been cut length wise to about only 1/4 inch or so and used that to hold to wood up I also dug a small hole under the opening so when you where done or needed to get rid of the heat fast you could scrap them out into the hole it was also a ash dump
trapped air pockets in the cast block or brick is what the problem is,same thing when we put art projects in a kiln when we were in school
The taller the better. That's probably the ideal number of layer. Congratulations.
Nice video. Would suggest small piece of sheet metal to seperate air & fuel intake so 100% of intake air enters fire chamber below the burning wood. Enjoyed you video. Thx 4 posting.
You will enjoy it!
If the bricks get wet/rained on, the water gets trapped inside the heat from the fire will build up steam in those water pockets, then the bricks, blocks and or rocks will explode. Keep them dry.
I would cover the stove with plastic when not in use.
That is a good idea, and I liked your infor on the rocket stoves, well done friend. Ken
Thanks!
If they do get wet build a small fire and gently dry them out. So far I've had no incidents. They would have to be quite soaked to be a danger. Covering when not in use is the best option.
Leon Pantenburg I might try a Galvanized Bucket for longer keeping.
thank you it looks tidy..
I like it. Thank you
Ive built one of these with mortar abot 2 1/2 to 3 feet high and works great use it all the time
Send photos!
I love this, AND, I have a lot of fire brick from an old aluminum plant (Alcoa) I got from my Uncle who worked there for years which can be heated to over 2000 degrees. That's what I'll use...yahoo! Thanks for the tutorial!!
+Jodee M Sounds like you'll be making a free stove! Let me know how you come out.
+Jodee M I love it that you said fire brick!!! I think there is a reason fire bricks are used in fireplaces, etc.
I wish I had a bunch of firebricks to make stoves with.
+Survival Common Sense: They're very cheap!
Have fun - send some photos!
great job, the name fits. thanks
Fantastic THank you!
I have made one of these in similar design. Its been in the weather for estimated 5 years now. It has not exploded yet... Can it with concrete? Yes it could. The concrete brick is not as compressed as the brick is. And the concrete will absorb moisture and retain it longer. I would think in order for the brick to explode you would need a very high temp fire inside. Not sure we can get one with the small amount of fuel source it takes to cook with. Thanks for sharing...
I would definitely use chimney bricks if I were making one for long term use.
www.survivalcommonsense.com/build-a-brick-rocket-stove-is-it-safe-to-use-concrete-blocksfeed/
Great Ideas and improvements. Thanks for sharing. Can i ask you if it is possible to vent out the smoking use a different vent/pipe/chimney. Any thoughts on how i could go about improving your stove to put in a smoke vent?
That is the kind of salient point what we are all looking for, the esoteric stuff. People can make informed decisions when choosing. The only downside of this style of stove is portability. Thieves can help themselves and it is inconvenient to move. That is why I like Dakota Pits. I use sideways fire, smoke holes, upside burns, cones shaped holes, U designs and gas wicks and get incredible results. Cost $0, except for a gas wick (you can use and upside tin can).
I have seen concrete blocks "sweat" water, yet never explode. I believe that the porous nature of the brick, allows moisture to escape via steam. While this is the same reason a brick may explode, I guess one is flipping the proverbial quarter.
However, if the bricks aren't saturated in water, or submerged in flames, I think they would work just fine.
This is a good test! Thanks!
I made one of these with some extra heavy concrete blocks and they have never given me a problem yet
It's working the bricks!!!
How about setting a row of bricks on top on their edge so the pot rest is recessed? This would keep the heat alongside the cook vessel longer, transmitting more heat to the pot.
Rule of thumb regarding chimney height for optimum draft: Flue diameter in inches x 20 is minimum recommended to prevent backdraft and creosote fires
Nice, I like the taller stack, but I would make the combustion chamber a bit bigger as well. I would prefer red bricks to concrete, but hey man, we are talking survival here, so thanks!
Well Presented! I need some BRICKS.
Bricks are easy to find - go to the local ReStore or salvage them.
moisture will get into the bricks, when you use the stove, the water expands and will likely crack the bricks. unlikely to explode, but who knows. likely depends on moisture and how quickly the fire gets very hot.
There is "fire brick" available for making chimneys. It would be better to use than construction type brick.
If you see a demo of an old house, see if you can get the fire brick from the chimney for free. It would probably hold heat better as well
An experiment you might do would be to get a heat thermometer & stick it in the top of the stove while the can of water is being heated & see what the temperature is at the 5-high brick level. Do the same test at the 6 and 7, & 4-high brick levels.
Bingo!! The whole point of all three of these brick rocket stove videos is to teach a survival skill. During an emergency, several of these could be built quickly to get people started boiling water to purify it.
Gave this a try today. results were poor. I can't say it was the design or not yet though. The red brick the box store by me had little bumps on them for spacing. They air coming in from the gaps I think kept the chimney from drafting well. I was also using pine tree scraps. It burnt real dirt and the build up of coals kept choking off the airflow. I switched over to some cedar from some old fence slats. This burned much hotter and cleaner. Drafting was improved, but I never got over a mild boil on 2 quarts that evaporated down to 1.
I'm going to try this again, but next time I'm going to smear some mud in the cracks as I build it. See if that improves the drafting and how clean it burns.
Sounds like that is your problem. The bricks need to fit tightly for the stove to draw.
Jason P slap some mud between them. 😊
Looks like you were 9 years ahead of your time! Thanks for the video.
This is my most copied video. I guess that's good. The most sincere form of flattery is to copy something..
@@survivalcommonsense A review elsewhere led me to you. I emailed your link to the wife. (Where my 'Iwants' go to die. Ha.) Makes perfect sense to me for SHTF. Backup for the backup for the backup. Appreciate your super work. Again, thankee!
@@OvGraphics Thanks! This stove design has been used and proven all over the world. It's a fun project for kids and adults to build and safe to use. Please subscribe!
it might not be cheep but i know from my Masonry class that fire brick would be prefect for this we just built one in my class.
Two comments on that question -- 1. Collect bricks now in various locations. They are inexpensive or you might even find them free -- Craig's List, Freecycle, dumpster diving, etc. 2. If you find yourself having survived some kind of disaster there may be damaged or destroyed buildings providing you with tons of bricks,
This is good; if you could fine a length of pipe to fit inside this would make a better draft chamber with hotter temps. build a heat shield at top to reflect heat; in a shelter of sorts would keep you warm using less fuel.
I tried boiling water with a 24 brick rocket stove yesterday. I had so much fun making the stove, lighting it up and hearing it gently roar. I was thrilled to place the covered pot filled with 1 liter of water on the flat grill at the top of the chimney. But I was
disappointed that after 15 minutes (timed with a timer) of watching the covered pot sit atop the hot flame, the water was barely warm. The stove did indeed use little wood and create a nice flame but it didn't boil the water. Is this everyone's experience? If not what am I doing wrong?
+Isastuff Hard to say - the one I made on the improved patterns worked great.
Thanks for video. I think some reviews miss point. Lid off is worst case. Lid on w double wall cozy ideal. Wondering how soap stone would work as bricks. Not cheap probably.
I worked in a plant that made concrete block and brick. I can tell you from experience that they WILL not last after being heated for very long. They can break apart, at the least they will crumble from the heat. Just an FYI. At a $1.60 a piece, Firebrick would be your best option, and in the long run, they will cost about the same, because they will last for years.
+scott grube Thanks for the input. If I were making a permanent stove I would definitely use fire brick.
I figured that you would know that. I was just commenting to let others know what would be best for a more permanent setup. Thanks for the vids, I enjoy them all!
+Scott G I think the main key here is in a survival situation, you might not have the ideal materials to make an oven out of. Thank you for the heads up though, very interesting.
Now in 2021, fire bricks are $2.40 each. If you are reading this in 2015 or in 2115, in 2021 everyone is now wearing a mask because of a killer pandemic disease.
I made one out of cinder blocks........lasted about 3 years
I wonder if you could build this on a piece of plywood attached to a lazy susan so you could rotate the draft opening into the wind.
I'm no expert, but any of the "red" brick as pictured (I'm referring to the old bricks some may have lying around old barns, old farm homesteads, weekend homes or older houses out in the country) are usually "fire brick". Most were used in chimneys. If you knock two of them together, they make a sort of "ringing" sound, this indicates they have been kiln fired when they were made. Now maybe more folks are familiar with the old yellow looking or off white brick such as our old school building was made of, these are not very good for putting a fire to. A lot of those may be just sun dried brick or dried but not necessarily "fired". When you knock two of them together, you will get more of a "thud" than the "ringing" noise.
Good tip - thanks!
Nice stove dude, I've got to try it!
I don't think there will be any shortage of bricks after a disaster.
What was that you used to start the fire?
people talking about the safety issues are most likely referring to WET blocks. Just like rocks circling a camp fire it they have been soaked in water then heated the steam can cause them to explode. I would think that due to the porous nature of the brick it would absorb water easier and would be a problem. just a thought.
This may be an amateur-ish question, but what if it's raining and you still want to use the brick oven? If you strung a tarp high up enough would that be safe to keep you and your food rain-free while you cook?
If the stove is on the ground, the tarp is about seven high, and there is adequate ventilation, I don't there would be a problem. Of course, all this would all be situation-specific!
if you took the same idea and used cement block your stove could take bigger wood or limbs. but you still have a great idea
Where did you get that red brick? Where I live a simple clay brick is around $1 each (not including tax). Same with cinder blocks like you used.
Actually, the metal mesh should take care of that situation.
Lol thnx Patrick!
I built one of these yesterday using your instructions. It was a great project to do with the kids, and seemed to draft well. However, even after 1 1/2 hours of carefully feeding the fire with hardwood sticks, my 1" of water in the bottom of a pot never came to a boil. Any ideas for how to troubleshoot?
Start the fire, then put sticks down the chimney until you get a good flame and coals going. Then feed the fire as you cook. Sometimes the chimney needs a little warmup. Also - how high was your grill from the top? An inch can make a great difference. On the other hand, if you want to simmer something, you might want the base of the cooking vessel to be a little higher.
Then check your fuel - were the sticks green or wet? Sometimes it take a while to dry out the wood before it will produce heat.
I've had no problems boiling water frying eggs or general cooking with this setup. Good luck, and let me know how you come out!
There's an idea you seem to be skipping over here with your adding the extra bricks.
Sure, if all you wanted to do was to boil water, then there's no reason for the wood hole, just fill the vertical hole with wood and light it. All the wood would be burning, and you'd have boiling water in no time. (I would suggest covering the coffee can and putting foil around your gas stove pot stand and it would probably boil in less than 3 minutes.
HOWEVER, (Sorry, no italics) the idea to one of these stoves is so that you can actually cook on it with a frying pan and use VERY little fuel.
In that case, having a larger draw works against you.
You want to be able to feed just a few sticks slowly into your horizontal wood hole to have a nice, low, steady heat to fry off of.
It won't work with what you've got because you have way too much airflow, and the tall chimney would absorb the heat from a small flame,
The rule of thumb for these is to make the "chimney" height 3 times the diameter.
So, if your chimney is what? 4 inches square? then your height should only be just over 12 inches [call it 13-14 inches from the top of the horizontal "wood hole". (difference between a circular chimney and a square one.)]
Any higher than that and you will have to burn a LOT more fuel to hold the same frying heat.
James Fergason _however_ you *would* still need _a hole_ at the bottom for airflow.
Depends on the stove. Watch the video all the way through and you'll get the info you need.
Did you listen to the part about making the water boil a challenge?
Does the brick throw off enough heat to keep you warm like a campfire?
i once made a fire directly on top of the front yard concrete floor, and after about 20 minutes it cracked with a loud noise (a mini explosion, if you will). i never used concrete for anything fire-related since. only used fired bricks or mud.
+ohvnaq Sounds like there was some water under that concrete.
maybe huh, i'll give concrete another chance then.
The only reason I used concrete is because they are cheap. Get some old chimney bricks and they should last forever.
What's the metal frame base you're using? Is it an aquarium stand?
It's a custom Dutch oven table. It is made to carry heavy weights.
Thanks for your videos. I just made one here in Mexico with the locally made bricks. The bricks are irregular so there are gaps and cracks. Is that an issue? It seems to be using the fuel rather fast. Trying to make a prototype to then show others how to do this. Cooking with wood is causing a lot of deforestation here. Would like your suggestions on how to improve it. Thanks much.
If the bricks are irregular, it will let air in. I'd suggest you use mortar with the bricks and make it a permanent structure. If you can't find a piece of mesh for the first layer, cut both ends out of a tin can, and flatten it to fit in the gap at the front. This will help the draft, and that should improve fuel efficiency. If the stove is burning too fast, experiment with sliding the brick back and forth to change the air flow.
Good luck - let me know how you come out!
The channel tunnel (england to france) is lined with pre-cast concrete panels. When a train caught fire, moisture trapped in the concrete tried to explode out as steam, causing the concrete to spall away and requiring a lot of repair. Later tunnels built the same way incorporate plastic fibres into the concrete mix. In a fire the plastic melts creating pores to let the steam out without destroying the concrete. These concrete bricks look quite porous already.
do you think this would work for pressure canning?
I don't know. It would probably heat up well enough, but it would take constant fuel feeding.
As long as them bricks don't get wet it will be fine it's just like using rocks from a river if there is moisture it will expand and explode the rock/bricks
i built a rocket stove the 16 brick model and it works ok it boils water great but the only thing is it you constanly need to put wood down the combustion chamber im not sure if you have to do that for every model or if that just a problem with mine.
theres a real bunny in the background
The concrete brick I used last year didn't explode but about 1/2 of them did break in 2-3 pieces from direct heat, not a lot of money like the man said.
Check this out: www.survivalcommonsense.com/build-a-brick-rocket-stove-is-it-safe-to-use-concrete-blocksfeed/
You could improve the draw of your stove by using some clay based mud like mortar in the joints to stop air leaking into the flue/chimney.
Can i use cement to glue the fire brick ?
+mohammad farouk I'd use mortar - get the kind used in making chimneys.
I'll have to try this with hand-made adobe bricks sometime... and then mud over all the bricks and let all that dry real good before use... maybe with a concrete mixture?
The idea was to show how to stack the bricks, and in an emergency, you will have to use whatever is available. Personally, I'll be trying to salvage bricks from a broken up chimney.
Concrete is porous and will absorb and retain water over time. As the bricks heat up, the water turns to steam and causes the brick to crack (not explode). I know this because my in-laws made a giant fire pit lined with concrete blocks and that's what happened to several. Store your bricks in a dry place and you should be fine.
"Insulation is small trapped pockets of air. Sand, brick, earth, cement, etc. do not contain many trapped pockets of air and are poor insulators" see website of aprovecho organiisation.
great video! i built one about a tall as the one you have here. my question is...how can i know if the 'wood gases' are igniting? from what i read, wood gas burning makes your fuel last longer. thanks
Good question! My guess is that if the stove burns clean, it is hot enough to ignite the wood gas. Anybody out there know?
i keep looking for some blue in the flame but not sure if it does that. hopefully someone will chime in....i am having fun which matters most of course! :)
As rocket stoves go, this pattern is very rudimentary and can't be expected to work as well as something like a SilverFire. Take it as it is - a brick pattern stove that can be adapted to many survival situations. This stove is not the best rocket stove, but it may be the easiest to improvise.
SurvivalCommonSense never even heard of the silver fire; i'll check it out. thanks.
I was cranking the heat to see how well it would work.
What happens if you narrow the hole by pushing each brick an inch or so inward (making the ends stick out a little)? Would that increase efficiency?
+Thomas Ritchie I don't know. It would be difficult to push bricks in at the top because of the design.
+Survival Common Sense Cool! Thanks.
And I just had another thought... If I make this I'm going to try stacking (or gluing) the bricks vertically for the chimney, and save half my bricks that way.
Send photos!
it is the trapped moister that can cause the braking
Ok should we supercharge this design?-Try using two bricks at the intake lengthwise and use another brick stacked length wise to create a venturi the top brick will also support wood. more suction greater heat I'm guessing. You may have to blow into the venturi to get rocket results to start but maybe not. Thx.
Interesting idea. Sounds like I should try it.
SurvivalCommonSense I'm sure it will work really well. Let me know your results. Thanks for the reply
Thanks! Let me know what topics you're interested in.
But I tried the mud or earth clay, too it's good like the bricks good job...
I used chimney bricks, Most of them cracked after a couple weeks.
There is a ration between the height and the inlet.
Can't find my notes to give the proper ratio.
Am thinking it is 5:2 (5 high, 2 out front).
Taller it is the more rockety it sounds.
How much were you cooking on the stove?
@@survivalcommonsense Was making biochar. I used a 12 quart stainless steel stock pot. And the fire had to be HOT HOT HOT too. So hot it melted the aluminum rivets that hold the handles on it.
Pot sat inside the 'chimney' as it were to maximize the heat absorbed.
When I cook soil, it won't need to be that hot.
Big difference between 200F and 1500F.
Amazing how hot sticks can get.
Bad thing is I had to sit there feeding the thing every few minutes to keep it going.
And have a charged water hose in hand in case of fire.
@@survivalcommonsense 12 quart stainless steel stock pot (walmart) filled 7/8ths with oak heating pellets.
For soil, I can nearly fill the pot.
Pellets expand more than soil.
Thinking about getting concrete blocks. Loose bricks from an old chimney leak air too much. And they like to crack if they get really hot.
That's why folks should always cook with cast iron; it won't let you down. @@crazysquirrel9425
looking at the designs and intended uses for an occasional or temporary use concrete looks acceptable yes the might crack or deteriorate eventually but for disaster use or camping i see no problem if i would build one for more constant use it would be worth the effort to find fire brick i did internet search of the big box and a concrete yard not a stock item here in Fl but i have not looked at specialty shops that do not have internet ad.
as for the real rocket stoves designed for 3rd world they use it indoors and many times a day and I commend who ever designed its is a real help for the populations that makes a difference to there lives
how 'bout a Rocket BBQ?
ممتاز جدا
👍👍
What do you have this sittin on..i like the height
It's a custom Dutch oven cooking stand. I don't know of anyone who makes them, but I'm sure any metal fabrication shop could weld one up for you.
Thanks guy, I'm planning to build a stove thats dosen't cost to much money.