Bandsaw Sawmill Problems -Problems Solved
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- Опубликовано: 23 май 2024
- Probably the most common issues with bandsaw sawmills are wavy cuts and cants that are out of square. @SawdustandSweatNC I have been affected by these same issues. In this video I address these issues in a very elementary, systamatic, and logical manner. Having watched Sawing With Sandy and remembering some of the issues he had with wavy cuts, I incorporated some of the ideas he suggested. However, an issue I found with my mill was not address in his video nor have I seen this particular issue addressed in any video. This is not a video suggesting this is your issue. Nor it is a video suggesting this is the fix all to all bandsaw sawmill issues. But for me, I honestly and truly believe the fix applied in this video has successfully taken care of the issues I have been experiencing with my Woodland Mills HM 130 Max Bandsaw Sawmill. And, by the way, check out the channel "sawing with sandy" if you like this sort of content.
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Well friend that was one of the most important sawmill vids I have ever seen. I have been pulling my hair out forever trying to get my cuts to good instead of close enough. . I think you have made my day sir, I thank you. Time to get out to the mill and start doing some real leveling. Wish me luck.
Jim my friend, best to you. It is very encouraging knowing that I may have had a small part in helping out a fellow Sawyer. Good luck with your investigation and implementations.
A 48 minute long content video on adjusting the sawmil. Can this day get any better. Awesome content and keep up the good work.
Thanks. Hope you enjoyed it. But tell you what, I'm glad I took the time to do this. Think it is going to make a world of difference.
@@SawdustandSweatNCI was wondering if the lap siding attachment was throwing things off a bit. It would be interesting to use that attachment a couple of times and then recheck everything to see if the head returns to the exact same position.
It definitely could. But I have mine strapped down so it absolutely cannot alter the head alignment. Good observation.
I’ve not watched all of the video but you are on the correct path to great sawing
Thanks Thomas. I firmly believe you are right. I feel so much better about it now. Thanks again
I have this exact mill, minus the bells and whistles. Thanks for posting this video.
Best to you in your milling. Thanks for commenting. And, would appreciate your continued support.
I believe that you did an excellent job making sure that the mill is level. But what nobody tells us millers is that you will have to go back over and check everything out again at some point. I have to go back over my mill again and check everything. I would say probably once a year? Depends on how much wood you put through it. And if you want to learn some excellent milling watch some videos of Hobby Hardwoods of Alabama. I have learned so much from him it has helped me tremendously. Good luck sawing.
Thank you for all you shared and the spirit in which you share. Yes, HH is referenced often and I bounce things off of him. He sincerely wants to help. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video. I'm running into the same issue on my HM126 I will be doing these steps to my mill before I saw anymore lumber
Hope it works as good for you as I did for me. Thanks
Thank you so much, i am going to try this on my HM130. Your video needs to go into Woodlandmills trouble shooting film sets so that we can all benifit from your hard work. Thank you again from Tasmania, Australia.
Thank you. I am not aware of the trouble shooting film but I am interested. Feel very free to share in whatever forum appropriate. I appreciate the commendation.
I have the same mill on a trailer, and I think I may just go through the same procedure once I check for wasps under the cover. I have cut paper-thin laminate off of it, but everything can be better. You did a fine commentary of thinking out loud without getting silly like some people do on RUclips. Thanks for the extra work, like I don't have enough to do already 🙂
Sorry for the extra work, I do understand! Best to you. Thanks for the kind words.
I have to sympathize with you, I have a this saw with lap-siding kit. Frustration is only part of the set up. Best adjusting tool 12 inch carpenter square, to adjust cables to the deck. Trailer mounted mill will give more trouble, because you pull it hits bumps things go out. The mill head will an does move. The blade will dip the 4 screws holding the saw head will shake it will go out. I learned after travelling a string line front to back use a bunge cord for tension on string line. The blade guides need to be checked with feeler gauges. 6 foot level and 2x10 under adjusting legs. Then cross fingers
Thanks Bryan. Appreciate the advice.
Thank you for your video. It shows to me the importance of the relationships between plumb, level, parallel to the straight track. The plumb bob.Sring line. A good level / Lazer and tape measure does not lie. I lower everything then check them with a Lazer to find the highest elevation of the track then bring everything else up to that elevation. The same with the cross members . Then each side of blade elevation. All in perfect relationship to one another. You certainly found it. Good job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Buckwheat.
That was truly an awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot. 👍
Thanks James. Appreciate it. Hope something was found that you can use.
I struggled with my HM130 max time and time again. I finally got the longest level I could find and put it on my rails. Looking under the level I noticed that I had created a crown in my rail assembly. The struggle is real but man I love turning out great lumber on a good day. Loved your content and truthful about the blunders we make while trying our best. I liked your block set up for testing your bunks, simple and effective, I will be using your idea. New subscriber, looking forward to what you get up to.
Super Interesting. Thanks for the input. And yes, thanks for subscribing. I have some ideas I'm working on. Stay tuned. Thanks again!
Thanks alot that helped me out I been fighting wavy cuts myself and I also forgot to tighten those jam nuts mine was also not level
Good on you mate. Hope things work out for you.
Great Idea. Thanks
Thanks Adam. You know, it seems some just don't get it. I mean, what I am doing here is not complicated. Really, it is about as basic as it can get. Level bed and bunks with level blade should produce level or flat cuts. Of course, provided the log stops are 90 degrees to the bunks and the cant is secured 90 degrees to the bunks. Thanks for getting it!!
Great video, great common sense approach
Thanks Steve. I am working on a subsequent/ part 2 vid on this subject. Hope you will be looking for it. Thanks again.
Never having had a bandsaw mill I am not sure an authority on their operations protocols. However I can tell you that I have run hundreds of thousands of board feet on circle mills and these same principles apply. Sandy was correct in the statement that level isn't always necessary. However having the deck and rails and carriage square to the blade is essential.. Seems to be the same sort of application in that sense of things..
Thanks for the advice. I believe I now have things dialed in at the moment. I'm even considering installing some angle bracing between certain bunks for additional stability. Thanks again
My biggest issue i think is in the so called laser cut rails that the carriage wheels ride on , mine are close but as they say close but no cigar , my woodworking backround about the same, like you say i know what straight is. I'm just an old carpenter who bolted a kit together i believe i got a pretty good hobby mill, & didn't break the bank.
I'm with you on all that you said. Thanks
The way the Wood-Mizer manual has me check for this issue is by placing the sawhead at a certain height, positioning the head over each bed rail, then measuring down to the top of the bed rail from the lower tip of a down tooth. It's a pretty fast way to check if there's a rail out of whack.
May I ask, when you say "bed rail" are you referring to what many call the "bunks?" I don't want to get confused. The rails are what the saw head runs on and the bunks are what the logs rest on, correct?
@SawdustandSweatNC Yes. My Wood-Mizer is a cantilever head with one main beam with a rail that the head travels along. I call the log bunks bed rails, but that might just be me.
I like the way you analyzed the problem and attacked it. Excellent! Where in NC are you located? I've got a live oak slice that needs cutting. Also hoping there's a saw mill in my future if the property I'm trying to buy works out.
Thanks. Email me at sawdustandsweatnc@gmail.com
I have gone through my mill so many times trying to figure out this very problem. I have 30 hours on my mill and probably have spent 30 additional hours trying to get it flat and level. I just recently wondered...do I need to actual shim the bunks? I almost thought it could not be the problem, and if I shim, am I cheating? After watching this, I emplore Woodland Mills in the nicest way possible to offer a shim kit with the 4 screw holes at 1/16" increments. Woodland Mills your an awesome company, do you hear us??? Please?
Thanks for this great video.
Thanks for the comment. And even more, thanks for the relief of knowing I'm not the only one. I am going back over a couple of checks at the end of the week. I will do my best to be extremely clear on what we both are understanding. Thanks again!!
The big problem with those cheap not so cheap saw mills is the rails are too light and they flex! Years ago I saw a original Woodmeizer sawmill and the bunk was made out of 3x6 inch tubing 3/8 wall thickness and I wanted one! so being a welder I purchase the raw material and built one! In my opinion this solves a lot of problems but is very expensive steel is very expensive these days. Want to get to the root of the problem go this direction.
Hey, appreciate the perspective and wisdom from your profession.Most all I'm getting is extremely helpful and I am very grateful, thanks.
Hello, you’re a hardworking man. The tops of the bunks need to be parallel with the rails. The mill is a kit that comes in pieces as you know. Did you put a straight edge on the two rails at the seams? Just some thoughts, good video.
Yes. And you get it. You, my friend are spot on in what I'm doing here. My bunks, for whatever reason, we're not the same height off the rails. Now, I'm not talking inches, but as a carpenter by trade, I am seasoned at cutting the line out of leaving the line, if you know what I mean. Leveling the bunks and rails in accord with the blade, in my way of thinking, could be wrong, is the only sure Fire Way of ruling out poor cuts due to a poor bed setup. I'm definitely not through dialing this saw in. Just plan to be very intentional in every step I take. In cabinet and furniture work im used to tolerances to say 1/64. I know this is unattainable with this format of machine. However, as I said, I want to do everything within my abilities to at least start out in the next mill session that the equipment is as good as I can get it. Thanks for the accolades and support. Happy milling!!
For those cable. Lower the head that take the tention off the cable and give you the ability to mouve thos screw by hand then raise it and use a tape mesure to calculate both side. it has to be to the 1/16 when the blade is tight. I often have to adjust mine and it take less then 5 min.
once you know you are on the 1/16 then tight all nut.
if you try to put a block and specific height and try to match both side it take forever and once you will mouve the head it will be off aigain... you need to lower and raise it and then mesure to ensure evrythings is setel with all 4 post. other wise you rise a corcer and the post dont raise properly evrything will look good and when you mouve the head it will be off aigain.
Thanks for sharing.
It could be your trailer. The trailer comes in small pieces and has to be put together. I put mine together tightened all the bolts then welded the pieces together after leveling.
Any chance you posted something about this on Facebook?
When I get back home tomorrow I plan to do more testing and analysis. I may need to weld as you. Been giving it though. I mean, the holes the bolts go through, even though you tighten big league, as we throw 3000lb logs on there, even gently in loading the bunks, it's got to move, in my opinion. A welded rail system makes all the sense in the world. Stay tuned.
I've noticed my rails have a small dip at the start, causing my last pc to be a little fat on the end of cut.
My guess is, we all, if we want good cuts, we all have to dial in our own Mills according to our Mills individual quirks don't you guess?
Get yourself some MICROMETERS and or CALIPERS and check and make sure your bunks and everything else is the same size where it's supposed to be. The quality of products some manufacturers are turning out may not be as good as they claim.
Thanks for the advice. And yes, I agree.
Dið you check the level on your blade?
Are you telling me you can adjust the pulleys to alter the blade level?
Check your blade tightening
Thanks for the suggestion. However, blade issues, in my humble opinion, usually result in wavy cuts. My issue was out of square cants. Blade not running parallel to the rails and then the bunks not parallel with thr rails, as described in the video was my issue. But yes, as you allude to, blade tension is super important. Thanks
Thanks for your time and sweat 👍
@mikemraz8569 Thanks Mike. I appreciate you appreciate these things.
You did not consider that the machine Ridgely was built in China the quality control on the metal. Is that a specifications
I do not know. I am of the impression my mill is the product of Canada. I will have to do some checking. Regardless of its origin, my plan is to take what I have and mill the best lumber possible. Thanks
You should have bought a cook's sawmill and you would not be having all problems 😮😮😮😮😮 God Bless Y'all and have a great day
Thanks Gene. I know I made a couple of videos about the bed. But, all in all, I think perhaps my issues may be more on the operator than the machine. You know or can imagine, having 50 plus years of joinery, whether it be in framing or furniture, one gets pretty acclimated to precision. Just transitioning to accepting wider tolerances I think is a process that is going to take me a little time to get accustomed to don't you guess? I don't know, I made what I thought was the best decision at the time. Thanks for the opinion and thought.
Should have gotten a woodmizer
Pat, I would have loved to have been in position to get a Woodmizer. Maybe someday. The budget just would not permit it. Yet, I continue to dream big. Thank you for your comment and hopefully continued support.
The biggest issue is you clowns don't understand is once you drop a thousand pounds log on the deck to saw the mill is out of level you need much better base under supports my brother and I built a drive able mill in the seventies were sawing commercially constant issue
Excellent video. I made the same video last year using the string. It's the best method I use. I also often do it after I put on a big log. I'm not on a foundation yet. Nice explanation.
Thank you for your input into the conversation.
Thank you for the comment. Hope you will consider subscribing and supporting the channel.
@@SawdustandSweatNC I just did. Thank you
@BigelowWoodcraft Thanks Bigelow, welcome aboard!