High school Geometry teacher here. The cheat sheet is fine, but limiting. To find the angle for any regular polygon (a polygon with equal sides and equal angles) of n sides, use 180(n-2) then divide this number by the number sides. For example, what angle for a hexagon? A hexagon has 6 sides, so n=6. Here we go: 180(6-2)=720, and 720/6=120. So, set your jig to 120 (of which you did). What if for some reason you wanted to make a 12 sided polygon? In this case, n=12; 180(12-2)=1800; and 1800/12=150. Set the jig to 150 degree and you will get a regular dodecagon! BTW, very nicely done.
Marie! Lady, you're damned INCREDIBLE ❤❤❤ It wasn't long ago that I watched your first video, and you were struggling with everything. Now you're teaching ADVANCED cabinetry!!! Fabulous ❤❤❤
Tip #1: put a stop on the underside of the jig so that it will hit the front edge of the saw and you will never have to worry about the kerf growing. Tip #2: save samples of each shape to speed subsequent setups.
I like tip #2 but not sure I get tip 1. How can I put a stop underside of the jig? Genuinely curious as I though about whether or not to add a bridge but decided not to as it might get in the way when cutting larger shapes.
@@DIYMontreal A strip of wood, plastic, or metal, along one edge (closest to the operator), perpendicular to the runners. Depending on how thick you make it, It will be hitting the front edge of the table or the fence rail. Think of an upside-down miter gage, a bench hook, or a simple miterbox and how they hook onto the workbench. Sorry, I don't have any visuals for you.
Improved for sure by having a stop to prolong the lift of the gauge…….great idea! Wonder about a length of piece gauge that could run in the slot right of the blade, for cutting those segmented pieces for us turners? Howdy from MT USA
Set up is fairly straightforward.....set the angle of the main fence in accordance with the shape you want to cut. Next, set the secondary fence to the proper angle with its tip, where it meets the primary fence, at whatever distance from the blade that you want each face of your shape to be. No need to do repetitive "test cut and adjust" if it's set up correctly....
That was very well done. I have a couple of dedicated jigs that have to be adjusted. This setup involves much more precision and less susceptible to angle errors.
Good stuff as always. Reminder for those that aren't comfortable with plunge cuts on the router, drill through holes at each end of the slot for the bit.
hi ,i made your jig. without t-tracks and all the fancy staff here in costa rica it is very hard to find all of those items so i made the sled..with a couple pieses of 1x2 screwed to it got the right angle and i did tasted one by one the angles so easy love it thanks ...very practical ..i do a lot of repeticions so it doesnt matter to me if i have to move the screws ones in a while, thanks for the idea superb.
Hey Mary, Cool trick... place pennies and pick up nickels after the glueing. I like your style anyway. Yer okay in my books. Go girl!! (Hi fromVancouver)
Hi Marie. Nice work you have there. Thanks for the nice videos you send out. I have a suggestion for how you can avoid cutting into those who lead the subject. Set up a stop at the end of your saw so the blade doesn't reach too far forward. Hope you understand what I mean. :-)
Nicely done Marie! That would be a good way to make a picture frame that didn't have 90 degree corners. I made an 8 sided frame many years ago to display a beer mat from a famous pub here in the UK. It would have been easier to cut using this jig.
Awesome jig! What do you suggest as the best way to get the correct length for the sides? Measure from the kerf of the first cut and align the second fence to that or is there a quicker/better/more accurate way in your experience. You can make a sample of each shape and then instead of using the protractor use that sample to set the correct angle for that particular polygon.
Once the back fence is set, you can use the ruler on the protractor to get the size you want one side to be. Beyond that I think practice and having templates as you suggested.
I like the count er sink you use and in the video said it was in the comments below so had to get my phone because I watch your shows on TV 😂 but after getting the phone I was not able to find it 😢I'm not good with phones so I could use a little help in locating the name of the bit 😊
This is really cool! As always, your designs are super functional and also good looking (I like the red contrast with the paler wood). I also like the idea of using epoxy instead of screws; I've had some very poor results with screws, and will try epoxy next time. Thanks for the tip. Great video as always. You're awesome!
Yesterday, September 30, 2024, I purchased "the polygon jig" on your youtube link. This morning I can't find the link to the plans for my purchases. Please tell me how to find them.
I am going to purchase the plans for making this Jig. One thing however, the video did not mention how you set the Jig to cut specific sizes of these shapes. I will be cutting 2 inches and 1 inch hexagons for two separate projects. PLEASE ADVISE. Thank you.
original stop block build pentagon angle on one end and octagon on the other. for larger product quantity without dedicating a whole assembly as a one trick pony.
I purchased the plans for this jig but you didn't specify the distance from the fence you placed the board before cutting the kerf and installing the runners. Is this a critical measurement?
I love the idea of this jig. I'm probably being stupid but how do I set the length of the side of the shape? eg if I want each side to be 2 inches long.
Question, it has been many, many years since I was in High School (it feels like it at least) so please tell me if I am correct or if I need to go back to school or not! With the formula that you laid out if I wanted (grab this number out of the sky/clouds) to make a 12 sided Polygon the angle I would need to use would be 150°, is this correct? 🤔 Thank you in advance and I hope you don't think I'm a dumb b@tt for not knowing this off the cuff!!🤔🤔
Hi Marie...I'm not sure if I missed it or if it is obvious and I am still missing it but if I need a polygon a specific size how do I determine the setting of the guides? Do I find the center of my blank to the first cut and set the center half the distance of the finish height away from the blade?
No need for the second fence end to butt up against the first fence. Just collects debris. The workpiece is registering on the fence edge, the the second fence end is not involved in alignment.
🤔🤔🤔🤔 Couldn’t you use som MDF or hardwood to make a setup block. Of course you would Ned one for each shape. Triangle, square, pentagon, hexagon, octagon etc.
What meant was to use them to re-set the angles. Put one side against the sawblade to set the first angle and use another side to set the other angle. Kind of like a set up block.
Of course once you have the initial set up, you’re set a block would only need three sides. Find a the blade, side, be the long fence and side see the short fence.
suggest a quick set-up 'square' block or panel, sides at different common angles and the usual drafting triangles. make a shallow storage tray with lid as part of your handhold. Triangle box (staying with the theme) at your close right hand corner.
Running a dado with the table saw for the metal guides would have been faster, safer, and more accurate. Instead of a chamfer, add a bunch of .25"x.25" dados under the runners, about an inch or so apart. With thinner boards, the chamfer will mess up your measurements, where the small dados will allow chips to get out of the way, while still fully supporting the board. Also, always leave a decent gap between the runners, for additional chip removal. Get a set of cheap plastic drafting triangles. Even the cheapest will be remarkably accurate and you can use them to set the angles for hexagons (60°), octagons (45°), and dodecagons (30°) much better than the protractor. You just have to place the triangle on the other side of the blade. For a pentagon, once you make one "perfectly", save it for setting up the angle next time.
UHMW is cheap. And it's not worth a crap. Use NYLON, it's more expensive but the results will be worth it. retired tool and die maker. I hated UHMW. I cut a lot of it because the customer was too cheap to use NYLON. It's just not worth the aggravation for the machinists and tool makers to use UHMW.
PLANS available here: www.diymontreal.com/product/polygon-cutting-jig-build-plans/
High school Geometry teacher here. The cheat sheet is fine, but limiting. To find the angle for any regular polygon (a polygon with equal sides and equal angles) of n sides, use 180(n-2) then divide this number by the number sides. For example, what angle for a hexagon? A hexagon has 6 sides, so n=6. Here we go: 180(6-2)=720, and 720/6=120. So, set your jig to 120 (of which you did).
What if for some reason you wanted to make a 12 sided polygon? In this case, n=12; 180(12-2)=1800; and 1800/12=150. Set the jig to 150 degree and you will get a regular dodecagon!
BTW, very nicely done.
Marie! Lady, you're damned INCREDIBLE ❤❤❤
It wasn't long ago that I watched your first video, and you were struggling with everything. Now you're teaching ADVANCED cabinetry!!!
Fabulous ❤❤❤
That is a great jig!
Looks like I know what I will be building this weekend...
Tip #1: put a stop on the underside of the jig so that it will hit the front edge of the saw and you will never have to worry about the kerf growing.
Tip #2: save samples of each shape to speed subsequent setups.
I like tip #2 but not sure I get tip 1. How can I put a stop underside of the jig? Genuinely curious as I though about whether or not to add a bridge but decided not to as it might get in the way when cutting larger shapes.
@@DIYMontreal A strip of wood, plastic, or metal, along one edge (closest to the operator), perpendicular to the runners. Depending on how thick you make it, It will be hitting the front edge of the table or the fence rail. Think of an upside-down miter gage, a bench hook, or a simple miterbox and how they hook onto the workbench. Sorry, I don't have any visuals for you.
Improved for sure by having a stop to prolong the lift of the gauge…….great idea! Wonder about a length of piece gauge that could run in the slot right of the blade, for cutting those segmented pieces for us turners? Howdy from MT USA
Pennies ?! Talk about a throwback ! 😅
Great video for a very useful jig. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks. You too!
That's a great jig. I really like that one.
Just love this channel, best thing is Marie a very good looking lady buy doesnt use it to get views. Just pure simplicity, and great tips
One of the rare times someone's made a comment about my looks without me feeling insulted ;)
@@DIYMontreal anyone insults our Marie will have me to answer too 🧐
Your as smart as you are beautiful. I think your a genius. I have learned a lot from your videos. Thank you so much. I'll keep learning from you.
Thank you!
Clear and concise instructions for the base of almost any jig.
Just made one of these jigs, now trying to wrap my head around what size to cut the blanks in order to get the desired result. I am getting there.
Set up is fairly straightforward.....set the angle of the main fence in accordance with the shape you want to cut. Next, set the secondary fence to the proper angle with its tip, where it meets the primary fence, at whatever distance from the blade that you want each face of your shape to be.
No need to do repetitive "test cut and adjust" if it's set up correctly....
Thanks!
I’m saving this as I know I want to use this in the future
That was very well done. I have a couple of dedicated jigs that have to be adjusted. This setup involves much more precision and less susceptible to angle errors.
One jig to rule them all and in the workshop bind them
Es impresionante la habilidad q UD tiene con las manos y las herramientas,la felicito y un abrazo desde Colombia.
Thanks for the great idea been wanting to build something for my shop
una chica muy creativa y muy profesional
Awesome as always, Marie!! Definitely going to be using a sacrificial fence for this one. Thank you for sharing!!
Yep, probably best!
Ingenious! And I appreciate your showing that epoxy-ing the T tracks works. Mega helpful.
Good stuff as always. Reminder for those that aren't comfortable with plunge cuts on the router, drill through holes at each end of the slot for the bit.
hi ,i made your jig. without t-tracks and all the fancy staff here in costa rica it is very hard to find all of those items so i made the sled..with a couple pieses of 1x2 screwed to it got the right angle and i did tasted one by one the angles so easy love it thanks ...very practical ..i do a lot of repeticions so it doesnt matter to me if i have to move the screws ones in a while, thanks for the idea superb.
Thanks for this idea, It's really great!
Nice jig. Another level of complexity would be to add an angle so that you can glue them together to form a sphere.
would add some toggle hold down puck accessories. especially for small workpieces.
Hey Mary, Cool trick... place pennies and pick up nickels after the glueing. I like your style anyway. Yer okay in my books. Go girl!! (Hi fromVancouver)
Great engineering! And re: pennies vs nickels, you get what you pay for.
lol proof.
drafting triangles to set up angle blade to fence for common angels, much easier then trying to hit exactly on a line on the jig.
Fantastic work, Marie! Really excellent jig! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Buenísimo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋Saludos desde Argentina .
Loved the video! Thank you!
Great jig... Well done...
I was able to find it thank you I'm enjoying the thing you are showing 🎉
The perfect jig. Thanks for sharing the video. This was exactly what I meant in one of my comments to your earlier jigs.
Un chouette Gabarit, bonne idée !
But, but, the hexagon is the perfect shape, why would anyone want a different one? Thanks for the post!
Right!? Just giving the people what they want tho
Hi Marie.
Nice work you have there. Thanks for the nice videos you send out. I have a suggestion for how you can avoid cutting into those who lead the subject. Set up a stop at the end of your saw so the blade doesn't reach too far forward. Hope you understand what I mean. :-)
Like a magswitch or something to stop the sled from going to far forward and cutting through the fence? Yeah great idea!
Nicely done Marie! That would be a good way to make a picture frame that didn't have 90 degree corners. I made an 8 sided frame many years ago to display a beer mat from a famous pub here in the UK. It would have been easier to cut using this jig.
Thank you for making this jig and the video of you making it for us! Also thank you for putting up all the angles on the chart!!
Thank you for sharing!👍🏼🍻
Awesome jig! What do you suggest as the best way to get the correct length for the sides? Measure from the kerf of the first cut and align the second fence to that or is there a quicker/better/more accurate way in your experience. You can make a sample of each shape and then instead of using the protractor use that sample to set the correct angle for that particular polygon.
Once the back fence is set, you can use the ruler on the protractor to get the size you want one side to be. Beyond that I think practice and having templates as you suggested.
Make the first cut, then measure and mark on the piece where the next cut should go. All the rest will be the same length.
Thank You !
I like the count er sink you use and in the video said it was in the comments below so had to get my phone because I watch your shows on TV 😂 but after getting the phone I was not able to find it 😢I'm not good with phones so I could use a little help in locating the name of the bit 😊
Great videos! Like your product sources also.♥
Nice and versatile jig, Marie. But shapes other than hexagons? Oh, no (lol)!
Bill
Don't worry, hexagons will always be my favourites :)
This is really cool! As always, your designs are super functional and also good looking (I like the red contrast with the paler wood). I also like the idea of using epoxy instead of screws; I've had some very poor results with screws, and will try epoxy next time. Thanks for the tip.
Great video as always. You're awesome!
Great jig, we what's the biggest size hexagon I could cut with it?
Well done
Yup.... @2:10 looks like nickels are the ones! 😁💸
Yep! Pennies just weren't doing it for me
Well done.
Yesterday, September 30, 2024, I purchased "the polygon jig" on your youtube link. This morning I can't find the link to the plans for my purchases. Please tell me how to find them.
I have a 10'x20' shop and can't figure out where to store jigs 😅.
Lol I feel ya. Space under my workbench is getting overcrowded!
Excellent
Merci!
Great tutorial, I thankyou 🎉
I am going to purchase the plans for making this Jig. One thing however, the video did not mention how you set the Jig to cut specific sizes of these shapes. I will be cutting 2 inches and 1 inch hexagons for two separate projects. PLEASE ADVISE.
Thank you.
thank you great information. 👍
Shouldn’t you set the router on two T-tracks in order to set the depth?
original stop block build pentagon angle on one end and octagon on the other. for larger product quantity without dedicating a whole assembly as a one trick pony.
Parabéns 👍🏻
Nobody seems to notice that many 'T' track sizes fit perfectly in the miter slots of table saws.
Where did you get the clamps that have the squeeze trigger??
Nice
Ola y una guía para cortar ,Pentágonos tienes
Gracias
I purchased the plans for this jig but you didn't specify the distance from the fence you placed the board before cutting the kerf and installing the runners. Is this a critical measurement?
The size of the polygon is limited though, it seems.or am I not seeing this right?
I love the idea of this jig. I'm probably being stupid but how do I set the length of the side of the shape? eg if I want each side to be 2 inches long.
If you want to cut other polygons: The angle for a regular polygon with N sides is (N-2)*180/N
Amazing! Thanks for sharing.
Question, it has been many, many years since I was in High School (it feels like it at least) so please tell me if I am correct or if I need to go back to school or not! With the formula that you laid out if I wanted (grab this number out of the sky/clouds) to make a 12 sided Polygon the angle I would need to use would be 150°, is this correct? 🤔 Thank you in advance and I hope you don't think I'm a dumb b@tt for not knowing this off the cuff!!🤔🤔
@@davidnleeh4 Correct!!
I'm doing something wrong, and I can't figure out what it is! I keep getting triangles!
Hi Marie...I'm not sure if I missed it or if it is obvious and I am still missing it but if I need a polygon a specific size how do I determine the setting of the guides? Do I find the center of my blank to the first cut and set the center half the distance of the finish height away from the blade?
02:10 the nickel making machine!!!
How would I cut a diamond on this jig
Show 🙌 😊...
No need for the second fence end to butt up against the first fence. Just collects debris. The workpiece is registering on the fence edge, the the second fence end is not involved in alignment.
🤔🤔🤔🤔
Couldn’t you use som MDF or hardwood to make a setup block. Of course you would Ned one for each shape. Triangle, square, pentagon, hexagon, octagon etc.
Sure that's always an option, but seemed easier to just have 2 parts that you can adjust.
What meant was to use them to re-set the angles. Put one side against the sawblade to set the first angle and use another side to set the other angle. Kind of like a set up block.
Of course once you have the initial set up, you’re set a block would only need three sides. Find a the blade, side, be the long fence and side see the short fence.
🤔🤷🏻♂️😃😂
suggest a quick set-up 'square' block or panel, sides at different common angles and the usual drafting triangles. make a shallow storage tray with lid as part of your handhold. Triangle box (staying with the theme) at your close right hand corner.
Running a dado with the table saw for the metal guides would have been faster, safer, and more accurate.
Instead of a chamfer, add a bunch of .25"x.25" dados under the runners, about an inch or so apart. With thinner boards, the chamfer will mess up your measurements, where the small dados will allow chips to get out of the way, while still fully supporting the board. Also, always leave a decent gap between the runners, for additional chip removal.
Get a set of cheap plastic drafting triangles. Even the cheapest will be remarkably accurate and you can use them to set the angles for hexagons (60°), octagons (45°), and dodecagons (30°) much better than the protractor. You just have to place the triangle on the other side of the blade. For a pentagon, once you make one "perfectly", save it for setting up the angle next time.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
I can’t help myself. Nickels are bigger.
UHMW is cheap. And it's not worth a crap. Use NYLON, it's more expensive but the results will be worth it. retired tool and die maker. I hated UHMW. I cut a lot of it because the customer was too cheap to use NYLON. It's just not worth the aggravation for the machinists and tool makers to use UHMW.