I prefer Alloy so if I were to go with an off the shelf bike it would be a top of the range Commencal but if it was a custom build I would do an Alloy Nukeproof Mega
It depends how thirsty you are. The $9k bike has a water bottle and the 3k bike doesn't. A water bottle with water is about 1.5 lbs. with a cost difference of $1,500 per lb between the two bikes the real question is how thirsty are you? Are you really willing to carry that 1.5 lb water bottle on the next climb?
Richard Peet ahhahaaha yup, pretty agreeable, although it isnt all about the weight in the bottle because of riding characteristics, how maneuverable and nimble front end and the whole bike is due to the lighter frane and components, and if you would have bottle cage near BB actually it would affect your bike quite good on the descents and it will sometimes also help on very technical uphills if you have the legs for the climb. I can tell this by riding many bikes and experimenting by putting weights on different places on the bike and recording the lap times.
For $9000 you can have $3000 plus BMW G300GS motorcycle. or $3000 Bike with $6000 to spend traveling to ride your 3k bike. With $9000 You can go to New Zealand get $3k bike and enjoy the beautiful trip. Just remember to save $200 to get the bike in the airplane!
@@calebjones032 Why would anyone care about the first impressions of a noob? Their inexperience means that in many cases, their opinions will change over time.
@@MrHunterseeker The differences become more noticeable with experience. Newbies have no idea what they're looking at and would even be susceptible to placebo. A meaningless exercise, IMO.
I lost 70kg ie 2.2 lb = 1kg ... so 4lb is f all stronger bike is better aluminum frame or cro-mo 3k bike and then tune it to you .... I had a $1300 bike at the start now have a 4k hard tail that is awesome so much faster than the other one and better geometry.
There is more than weigth, the fork in the 3000 packs 15 year old tech, a cheap plastic damper inside, it has a daily commuter fork, not a real mtb fork. The rims are cheap "wall mart" rims priced 90$ for the pair.. None of these bikes are good value 4 money.. But I would agree with u, the 3000 is the better option if these where the only bikes in the world!
lol, you savage. I completely agree with you though. I would have to take out a mortgage for the $9,000.00 dollar bike...... 3000.00 is somewhat reasonable, but if you have the money- why not?
Education is the key my friend , stay in school and choose a career that holds your interest and has earning potential. Then any bike becomes within your reach. Make smart choices and life is good.
@@scottcarlon6318 please don't think that this is easy for everyone. I live in a country that, if you don't have the money to pay for your education, you're automatically 20 steps behind. In my high school I've barely had any classes. Lack of teachers, administration etc. Those are just the surface of our educational problems. It's super hard to study for college exams while you have to work to pay your bills.
It's just not easy. Biking is a hobby that I try to fit on my weekends and vacation, but I can't afford to spend too much on it. Our currency is basically worthless. U$3k is R$14k. I only make R$1.2K a month, so I would have to work an entire year to pay for a U$3K bike. Apart from paying my bills of course. Cause if I subtract my monthly spendings (food, electricity, rent, internet), there's barely any money left.
@@andrekaled you don't even have to go to school, learn a trade that pays well, for instance welding in the US is relatively easy to get into and pays well. A lot of people do go to school for welding, however it is much shorter and cheaper... Don't give up, live frugal until you are able to build yourself up. Learn a trade, then earn the money for college or move to a country that has a better economy if you don't mind leaving family, friends, home etc. Never give up, always try to stay positive. You can do anything if you put your mind to it!
@@scottcarlon6318 I did that, now I do earn a lot of money and let me tell you this: 1. Huge proportion of people who train specifically to earn a lot of money instead of what they really are into, end up as being really uninteresting individuals contributing little to the society. 2. Most very highly educated people in fields they are passionate about are paid poorly even though they are crucial for the society and advancement of humanity. 3. Naturally, there is a segment of people where education, interest and money overlap, but this is rather an exception than a rule. Thus does not apply to such blanket advises. And that's in developed "1st world" countries.
@@lukasbormann4830 - if you left it up bike retailers a motorcycle would cost $50,000, and that's just entry level. Don't even start to say nonsense that bike is engineered more than motorcycle.
Upgrading a humble bike is such a good feeling too, you get to choose the components and really get to know those trick parts you bought. All the quirks and maintenance points are always at the top of your mind too, since you know exactly how they were installed and how they should look and feel. Also your bike will be pretty unique and it's just a killer feeling.
wrong. buying components seperately is expensive. save money from those maintenance as well, those suspension maintenance is not cheap. save up the money you'll spend for upgrades. Around 3-5 years sell your bike to upgrade to a better, modern, updated, brand new bike.
@@tonyo5 why would I. Buying a cheaper Bike, maybe used, is a good entry and you have a reliable base. Then you can upgrade the things that are important to you and your skill level. I dont care about the highest end drivetrain on top spec bikes. I prefer having decent brakes and a good and well tuned suspension, which is often overlooked. Plus you don't have to spend the entire money on one buy. Having the ability to choose exactly the parts you want is important. Building an entire bike from scratch however is expensive as shit. And pls dont cheap out on maintenance...do you treat your car like that? There is a reason for these intervals and a 2 year old fork that is used how its inteded to be doesnt feel like a fresh serviced one.
@@timbrunner3347 If you buy a brand new bike that's $2999 (with 1 year warranty) you'll get the most of your money rather than buying a 2-4 year old second hand bike (hit and miss) that's $1200-1500 and then buying parts for upgrade down the line (groupset, brakes, 2 suspension maintenance, tyres, bearings will add up to $1000+ easily). Boost standards have taken over and it's getting harder to find brand new non-boost parts these days and geometry have changed from the past 5 years. Factor in also the resale value after a couple of years if you're selling. Best route is look for last year's model which I guarantee you they will slash 20-40% off retail price. So you pick a bike, a 30% discounted brand new last year's model or a used bike that needs upgrading + maintenance and is somewhat outdated for roughly the same amount of money down the line? Also, NEW BIKE DAY FEELS, we don't get to have that feeling quite often.
You're both kindof right. I'm a racer and converted roadie who used to build from frame up. For CX/mrb I always buy a complete bike in my budget because of compatibility, and taking advantage of OEM pricing (have you ever looked at Fox retail prices?). At the same time, I do upgrade parts that break or wear. My slx shifter died after 3 seasons and replaced it with xtr. So much better feeling! Better tires, chain, cassette and sprockets as they wear out. When the stock wheels die I might get carbon ones.
@@tonyo5 Yeah, that's what I do. If you happen to fit a XS or S frame size, they blow out those prices and the end of the year because they always have a few hanging around which the retailers just want to get rid of.
@@willdabeast144 not really, that's like saying you'll buy a car, but A) the dirt bike will be a cheap one B) I don't want that, I want a bike! It's a completely different sport
@@willdabeast144 thats would be the walmart mountain bike of dirt bikes, and a lot of people dont have a place where you can ride a dirt bike thats easily accesible/close
9k bike should be coated in kashima entirely. Just submerge the thing in liquid kashima coating after assembly. And the tire sealant needs to have kashima particles. And oil slick kashima drive train with a 18 speed cassette and telekinetic wireless shifting. Non-kashima rotors are out of the question. And make the whole thing out of carbon. There you have it!
agreed, i have decent and thought it fancy. then started watching youtube vids..... only real big thing ive seen that i dont have is seat droper ... that would be nice... my poor ass has to pull quick realese and push my seat down like a poper
My hardtail costed 500 € (it was reduced from 800) with far less fancy components than the ones in the video. Despite this I like it very much, most cyclists (me included) could not anyway use the full potential of a very expensive bike.
Just built a carbon canyon strive, w/ rochshox monarch rc, rockshox lyrik, and full sram nx eagle drivetrain. You want to know the price? 2100€ Buy used people
@@65Drums are you sure?? a good cheap full suspension cost from 2600usd but a good cheap hardtail from 600usd this is price in denmark(expensive country:)
No it's not My bike is 800 plus new wheels and I would say it's just above entry level, but I also think it's the cheapest you can go for a "proper" mtb 400 - full entry level 700 to 1300 - entry to mid Up to 2500 - mid Up to 4500 - high Above 4500 - off the scale
something built by someone who know's what they're doing when matching parts (or more likely a team of people) are going to build a much better bike than the average cyclist could just choosing their favorite parts.
If you've ever done a frame up build there's a load of work involved to make sure everything is 100% compatible and unless you're familiar with frame up builds you're guaranteed to forget something small in the build (seat collar, brake mount adapter, etc). The stock build off the floor 9k bike is for the customer that doesn't really want to mess with things or deal with incompatibilities. For the past few weeks I've been dealing with a ti gravel bike running sram axs levers paired to hope calipers on ice tec rotors and everything is compatible on paper but in practice there's a vibration that develops under braking. Fun custom bike things.
I would totally buy a good aluminum frame and then buy all best components I can put on, and would be not even 7k with much better build than the 9k bike, for sure...! And 2k extra cash not bad tho...
you should do a version of this where you compare a new $9k bike ... versus the $3k bike with $6k worth of upgrades ... to show weather you're better off saving up and buying the bike with the parts you want already on it or upgrading
@Animagus Borealis that would be the only thing that wouldn't change ... i was talking about what is going to be better dollar for dollar ... even tho i'm pretty sure just buying the buying the better one in the first place will be better ... because the large brands are able to buy parts in bulk and get them much cheaper than aftermarket
Both... Bought an (Al framed) Specialized Enduro Comp and upgraded it with Guide RSC Levers, X01 Eagle & Roval Traverse SL carbon wheels. Attempted to make it a single quiver rig. But it's strength really is in Park settings where there isn't a ton of pedaling. In hind sight those upgrades cost ~4k on top of the bike itself. Next up, fully custom built Yeti SB140 for local trail riding. Going custom, no compromises on parts selection and end up saving a bit, due to bundling and not paying for stuff that would get swapped out after the fact. Thing is, not everyone is going to feel compelled to pay super crazy $$$, for the super dialed rig. And that's ok. Ride what makes you happy. I certainly am. And, until the new rig shows up in the mail, i’ll just hang out on the trainer, so I don't run out of breath riding the new "Engineer's Bike" from the truck to the trailhead. Lol!! 😅😇👍
I personally like aluminum because it’s much more durable in crashes/rocks when you try to push your skills. Less vibration through the bike also to my hands. Feels like when bikes are too light they just deflect off everything easier. Once you ride on a regular bases a few pounds difference seems obsolete once you get in decent shape. I could change 3 pounds in weight depending on what I eat for dinner. Not gonna spend an extra 5k. I do like better brakes and shifter for feel. I also like the feel of a stiffer fork such as lyric over pike.
John DeF I feel like it does. When weighting and un weighting the bike though chunky sections I little extra weight feels much smoother and doesn’t feel like it jars or deflects as much as a 3-4 pound lighter bike.
I also prefer aluminum when it comes to all mountain/enduro/downhill, the only parts in carbon would be the brake lever and the crank arms. It would be nerve wracking to approach a proper gnarly and steep rock garden on a carbon frame and carbon wheeled bike IMHO.
Me looking at a $3k bike drooling lol I can make up that 4 lb weight difference by not eating a cheeseburger that week but I do understand the advantages its like choosing a corvette over a ferrari they are both going to get you there quickly and in style but there is a certain refinement differences between the two.
I’m with fat guy though. It’s easier for me to eat less then justify spending $9k on a bike. I have a hard time with more then $1k on a used bike at this point (keeps me riding older bikes for now).
except... 1) Every Corvette, like only the highest end Ferraris, is hand built. 2) The Corvette is still a 245mph supercar. Yes, the highest end Ferraris can do 260, 280mph, but you're paying well over 3mil for that when you could pay just 200,000 for a vette and soup that sucker up to do 260mph. You're still paying less for the same quality, because with Ferrari, you are paying a lot for the brand name. Its like going to the store and buying a $4 giant bag of generic cereal vs a $6 tiny box of brand name cereal. Its the same exact stuff, but without all the marketing costs associated with the brand name. 3) Ferraris are often made of fiberglass or carbon body panels, depending on price point. Corvettes are made primarily of fiberglass to make it easier to produce, paint, and assemble. Frames will always be steel in Corvettes. Not sure on the Ferrari frame, as I don't care enough to worry about it. 4) Corvettes SOUND better! Who likes the growl and whine of a v12 instead of the confident rumble and roar of a V8? I guess only hypercar fans.. 5) Corvettes have the bolt in Lingenfelter mod available, which instantly brings the car's top speed up to 260mph. Ferrari doesn't have anything like that, as far as I've heard. And you can STILL upgrade that mod to make it do 280mph! All under $500k! All I know is I ain't spending 3 million on any one car, I'll spend it on three or four Lingenfelter Corvettes and a house!
I like how you guys gave a strong lean to the lower-spec bike, where I feel a lot of comparisons tend to shout about how inferior it is to the high end bike, and almost make it seem like "if you're only gonna spend that much, you're just wasting your money". As someone with too many hobbies and too little income to justify $10k on a pedal bike, I would definitely fall into the category of "buy the lower spec and upgrade parts over time". I'm not racing, I don't think .2 seconds down my local singletrack is going to make or break my day.
As a weight lifter I have a hard time wrapping my head around excessive weight reduction. For me moving the bike is part of the challenge. I'm saying this as someone who weighs 230lbs. Please excuse my obvious ignorance.
most bike riders cant even lift 230lbs so they need all the help they can get. even if that means spending an extra 6k to nock off 4lbs from there already super light bike loooooooool
Cycling isn't about making the bike as difficult as possible to ride. We could just add giant, heavy tires or drag weights. The challenge lies in what terrain you can ride. Ride farther, bigger hills, more difficult terrain, etc. A lighter bike, for similar style bikes, will generally make it easier to do these things.
A light bike is just more fun. Thats really what it comes down to. Lighter is more funner. Even if you're strong, a lighter bike is more fun. If you're weak, a lighter bike is more fun. Now, here's the deal though, any bike is fun. SO you're going from fun to funner, not unfun to fun. Gotta keep that in mind.
Powerlifter/Strongman here. I'm in the same situation. Not willing to cut down because that means less power. So I just got an E-Bike and dont care at all about weight. Still Love my regular Bike, but being able to ride faster, further and higher is awesome and gets me on the bike a lot more.
Me too. Powerlifter. Obviously lighter is better, but these poundage differences are miniscule compared to the amount of weight I may put on or take off of my own body over the period of a few months. I can lose 4 pounds in a month or two and save myself a few grand, but then again, I am not a competitive cyclist.
I’ve always been in the buy once cry once category. I either rented bikes or used hand me down bikes until I realized this is something I really like. I ended up choosing the yeti sb150 and I’m happy I waited! Love it
I'd always start with upgrading the tires :) Best upgrade and also the first one everyone should try. I've put a Maxxis Assegai DD Maxxgrip on my Canyon Spectral, holy shit is this tire great, it grips even on wet/muddy roots. It's even better than the dhf! Before that I was running a Wild Enduro, super rolling and grippy tire, but not on wet roots, it was the slippiest front tire on wet roots I have ever ridden :-D The Wild Enduro is a great tire if mounted on the rear!
I ride in pretty dry and loose stuff, and Continental Trail Kings outperform Schwalbe Hans Dampfs in every way in those conditions. I haven't tested any other brands yet, but I don't exactly have a 10k budget to throw away.
Thank you for making this kind of comparison. I am not a dentist, or an orthodontist, I have kids and bills and unfortunately a lower spec bike is all I will ever be able to afford. And as we know, most of the reviews are for top spec. So I will be buy the lower spec bike just because it is all I will ever be able to afford.
Feel like wheels and brakes are easily one where they save on cost - and probably good so, they are easiest to upgrade. Not that 2-3k bike has bad either, they are just fine. 2000 €/$ can get you full suspension trail bike, dropper seat post, decent fox suspension and gx drivetrain, which is already a quite good deal.
@@ioulios11 Canyon Neuron as example. If you want a bit more travel and 27.5", Canyon Spectral but it costs just little more. YT also makes great bikes to same price range.
It’s literally hard to spend $9k on a brand new stock enduro motorcycle. That’s crazy, top end mtb bikes were about $5k when i stopped riding and they had 26” wheels.
I actually have the Aluminum Troy in a GX build, it's been a great bike for me and cost $3,250. I never thought I would spend more than that on a bike, but I just put an order in for a Revel Ranger frame and fork, in total the bike will cost about $7,500 when it's all built up. Amazing what you can justify spending when you get hooked on a sport and start going into the rabbit hole of researching gear. Turns out I like xc and long intermediate trails the most, and the Troy is great but not the best tool for the job.
Dude amazing! And you're right. As you fall in love with a sport the toys get more expensive but I think that's ok as long as you're still financially smart and loving life riding nicer bikes 😁
Folks where I ride spend too much money on expensive kit and neglect the important things like building their skill set and improving their fitness level. They also feel the need to ride 5-6" travel bikes on trails where skilled riders shred on a hardtail with a 100mm fork and 2.2 tires. They usually pull up to the trail head driving some sort of large truck with wheels/tires that barely fit and trailer mirrors, yet the truck has no hitch. How embarrassing.
Good point...Guys does this in mx too...improving your skill level and fitness is your best investment and it does translate to mtb and any sport really.
Planning on going full squish in the spring. I will target a $2-2.5k bike and slowly upgrade. What you need to get you on the trail and enjoying the mountain does not need to cost a damn fortune. Paying over $5-6k for a bike is snob status for sure. That being said, MTB is a serious hobby where nothing is cheap and those that enjoy it (hell, or any hobby for that matter) are free to burn their cash however they please.
Definitely check out the direct buy market (Canyon, YT, Fezzarri...) the components you get for the price can't be beat. I picked up a Canyon 2 weeks ago, and I love it
After weight the biggest factor has to be durability. My bike was somewhere between those two in terms of price range and the alu wheels while heavier were also made of playdoh. At a certain point the upgrades you're talking about aren't a choice but a necessity after you bang up the cheaper components. Droppers are notorious for going awry, derailleurs get smashed to oblivion, pedal bushings turn to dust etc. The only really reliable parts are probably the saddle, cranks, and bar/stem. Also very surprised you didn't mention the difference in tires.
Great vid! Awesome to hear about the difference in feel when it comes to riding vs just stats. Also great to hear about biker snob thoughts along with a more recreational rider perspective. Pinning this video to share with any friends when they inevitably ask this question after getting hooked on the sport.
Good video. Ultimately the biggest upgrade you can make is improving fitness and technical skills. I ride a 3k fs largely customized, and I have as much fun as I did 30yrs ago on my hardtail with caliper brakes and a fork with two inches of travel . But man the bikes these days are awesome!!!
Exactly! Get a bike that is right for you, there is no need to spend nearly $10k if you only ride 4 times a year, for that you could get something way less expensive that will do the trick.
I myself got a 2022 Diamondback Release 2 as my first mountain bike, and I love it! I plan to slowly build it up and upgrade the rear shock, the fork, the brakes, etc. but very happy with the quality of the Release 2, Good color of blue too.
Hub engagement is why some people like fixie bikes soo much. Power transfer from peddle to wheel to ground is instantaneous. But I'd rather have gears for hills so no fixie for me.
great video. I would have to stress one huge difference is shifting performance. The $3000 bike's drivetrain will work flawlessly for about 2 shifts and then be garbage forever. You have to spend a ton of money to get good shifting. plus, there is a huge difference in the front suspension which most people will notice. suspension these days is pretty good at the higher end of things. Plus, Taylor's phone number. she forgot to post it!
I own a Trek Fuel EX8 and testet a Santa Cruz Hightower LT X01 and I think the difference is not worth the money. But a few days later i got a Santa Cruz Megatower CC XTR and I bought one 🤟
I do like the comparison videos your team post. I can relate to the differences you mentioned from a demo ride by Yeti in my home town. The T series Yeti's with x01 were way more comfortable to shift than the gx on the C series. My ride for now is a 2006 yeti asr with industry nine 26" wheels. The smaller wheels make the bike feel extremely playful and poppy, but scares the heck out of me in rock gardens and real tech-y parts of trails.
@@liamquinn5518 compared to some other weird mix of south african, nz and some other thing people do, it was pretty ok. But no attempt will ever be as good as us lads from down under.
Started MTBing back in the late 80's. I wanna say, that none of the differences shown are worth 6k $. As you said, it's all about being a bike snob, or not 😂. Spending like 5-6k on a complete is by far enough and should work for like 90% of the hobby/amateur riders. (My ride: costum Demo8). Great video,tho. P.S. Dear Bo, 29ers are taller than you 😜.
Hey - It's not just about being a bike snob. One point you didn't mention when discussing the fine details was, the fine brake adjustments of the RSC's, and the drivetrain differences will be more important when riding more extreme terrain. That's when you really need fine brake adjustments and brake feel is super important. Likewise, you really need a drivetrain that hooks up instantly and lightweight wheels to put the power down. Nevertheless, a valid comparison.
So basically if someone just wants a bike for riding some easy trails and nothing hardcore there is no reason for them to buy a 9k bike over a 3k bike is what i am hearing.
@@sexatica Nah. Buy once, cry once; if you are serious about getting into the hobby then everything on the nicer bike will still help you. Just...don't buy a $9,000 bike, ride it twice, and then not touch it again for years.
I like buying the lower price point building my own bike is part of the fun getting carbon wheels next week . I do truly enjoy piece by piece customizing great video
99.9% of people should have a $3K bike. A. because these bike prices are getting out of control. B. Unless you're a pro and sponsored you don't need a $9K bike. C. Spend what you want, it's not my money.
Upgrading is adicting, and very expensive,, I speak from experience, better off paying as much as you can at the start, until it hurts, it will hurt anyway you look at it, there are great bikes in the middle of those two.. I crash a lot less on a light bike too, at my age thats a BIG bonus, my bike? Specialized Epic Expert,, I took many upgrades off my old bike, Carbon bars/seatpost, XO1 Eagle, Renegade tires, 23.9 pounds now. with pedals/computer.. next upgrade, Sram XD Driver...
Yes, I am a bike snob. I have an SC Nomad and a Pivot Shuttle (XTR build). I also have a Bronson and a Haibike as backups. The differences between the $3-4K and $8-10K builds are huge. XTR or X01 vs an NX is beyond comparing. When you try a Hope V4 or Saint or XT 4 piston, you just don't want Guides or Maguras around anymore. A good shock with stiff wheels, dialed in sag/rebound. Just going from a Fox 32 to a 34 or a 34 Factory feels like sitting into a BMW after your beater Ford Pickup (I have a beater Ford pickup that is probably worth less than my Shuttle). Longevity is also a "thing". 4 year old X01 derailleur: perfect, never had to touch 2 year old NX : side-play, messed up, the whole thing goes to the garbage as soon as I figure how to swap stuff around the bikes (probably to be replaced by an XT) ... The Haibike's dropper compared to a Transfer or the Rockshox or even the 5+ years old KS is the same.... sure .. both works. Except when it doesn't. Except when you spend half an hour in the rain in the middle of the forest, trying to figure out why it keeps sliding down or not going up.... So ... it is not a show-off thing. When I have time for 3 runs. Do I want to enjoy crisp shifting, or stopping and putting the chain back for the 3rd time, because I have NX on that bike.... and wondering why my hands are blue from Magura Blood after that 500m vertical drop ... So yep ... these things do matter. You don't have to race or be a pro to want to enjoy good shifting, good suspension or good brakes. For the record: my $6800-ish Nomad came with unacceptable WTB seat (that broke), Guides (changed to Hope after a month), and WTB wheels that were super hard to seat tubeless on (replaced with Crank Brothers) .... And Santa Cruz shipped it with a piece of crap cassette. Even though they marketed it as the X01 build, the X01 cassette cost me $500 at the time :O so even a $7000 build carries crap... or just stuff you will eventually replace with better stuff. Just my 2c. But again... I am a complete bike snob... I have to admit though, that I cannot find one single component on my Shuttle that I would want to replace. I am trying, but I cannot :) I only have 4 rides on the thing though :O ... maybe a longer stem and wider bars, but it is not a "need better" thing, more like ergonomics...
I think people should take a approach more like Bo's. If you love it... Who cares what you ride. To many people get caught up in the BS of it all. Bring and ride what ya got.
Great video! I really liked the part-by-part weight breakdown in the blog. If going for something in the middle of the two, what's better...Aluminum frame with carbon parts are Carbon Frame with Aluminum parts?
It's hipster when it's offset like that brah. Actually it's because it's covering the ASUS logo and that is the only position to cover the entire logo on there 💩
Got a good deal on an entry level Yeti sb140 regular C frame. I already have a Turq sb130 X01 build. Have to say the 140 blows the 130 away in every way. It just under 2 lbs heavier and only has Fox Performance, where the 130 has all Factory stuff. AND I got the 140 for 3k less
I have an Orbea Occam that I’ve felt is the best bike I’ve ridden! I’ve ridden Yeti and Specialized as well. Riding has to do with the rider not the pocket book
I dont necessarily agree here. U can have a nice bike if you wait for end of year model sales. IMHO is the way to go unless you're the gotta have it before everyone else type. No way in hell I'm dropping anywhere near 9k on no pedal pony! Its ludicrous!!
LuisManuelHdez that’s why I buy used, there’s great deals on low hr bikes out there. I saw a great bike for 2 grand recently that had basically zero ride time, it was a Trek the guy lost over 1000 bucks and only rode it a few times on gravel roads near his house
Turtles Fabricaton, agreed. I picked up a shiny brand new Stumpjumper expert for $3800.00 .. original price 1 yr ago $5500.00!!! Still a little steep but I've been lusting after it for a while😂. Can't say I'd go over 5k on the best build ever! I just dont like to throw my $$ away. The industry is either out of touch with reality or just plain robbing us blind without shame.
@@Dom2oo4 Suntour coil fork, shimano altus which is designed for a city bike at best. Yeah there is a reason to spend a few quid more for something that will last. That being said a 800-1200 bike won't have any of those issues. And that's what i see the most here in the forests. (rockshox recon/30 forks, Shimano SLX groupsets, alu frames, 29 inch wheels) Various brands with similar trim levels.
Haha agreed! Almost everyone in our shop in Cali has one. They are not sponsoring us or anything. We pay for those because they look good and are comfortable 😁
I bought a 2001 Klein Attitude Race hardtail back in 2000. It costs me about $2,100. Best purchase i ever made. It's been so reliable and has performed very well. I guess a bike like that would probably be in the $3,000 range today. Oh, the color of the bike is VERY important. To me, the bike has to look cool.
When you consider the cost of making nicer parts out of nicer materials, for a smaller and smaller market as you go up the ladder, that’s part of the driving force behind the price increases. Yes I’ve worked on the retail side of the industry, yes I know about mark up and cost vs retail price. Just saying. XX1 has a MUCH smaller volume than NX, this all production costs (engineering, tools, materials) is spread across a much smaller set of buyers.
Interesting. From your blog I see the $3k bike is a little shy of 15kg and the $9k bike is a tad under 13kg so 3 times the price for a weight reduction of about 2kg or 12.6%. I bought my road bike at Aldi's for a lot less than these, it came with an aluminium alloy frame, cranks and wheel rims and weighs 11.1kg. Admittedly it has no suspension and it would probably fall apart if I tried to use it where these bikes would compete. Still I feel a little happier now about my machine than I probably should. Thanks for the video Worldwide Cyclery.
I like me a Devinci but I have Santacruz 😧. He is bike snob because he can afford to be. My question is are you actually getting something better ? Or is it like buying a BMW where it feels great, looks great but spends a lot of time in the shop because it’s poorly engineered.
I think snob is the wrong word though because being a snob involves being a douche and he’s not a douche at all. I believe he’s more a connoisseur, an expert judge in matters of taste. Good job Jeff.
You are getting something better, in this case they literally have all the same engineers on these two builds, they are just making one more cost effective.
Not necessarily "better", but with these bikes in particular, it's worth noting that devinci alu is sourced locally and welded in house here in Quebec whereas they outsource their carbon frames to a chinese manufacturer. Not to say the carbon frames aren't high quality, but the alloy frames are incredible (fyi I ride that same Troy NX but in silver)
IMO - One big difference you didn't mention is the Al frame has external cables. The C6 frame has internal cable routing. It doesn't matter from a performance PoV, but the internal cable routing looks a lot more tidy... But I'm being a bike snob too. 😁
Which bike would you choose? Let us know below!
Well the Red one of course. That's if it was in my budget and thank the lord it is. I love you credit cards!
The bourgeois one if I were part of the 1 %
Buy the blue one..
have fun and Upgrade by time!
Worldwide Cyclery a Kazzo
I prefer Alloy so if I were to go with an off the shelf bike it would be a top of the range Commencal but if it was a custom build I would do an Alloy Nukeproof Mega
Thr difference is $6000, if I'm not mistaken.
You beat me to it!😂
I co ule buy 12 bike with that
I'm no mathematician but I think you're right
Yea you’re right 🙂🙂
!
It depends how thirsty you are. The $9k bike has a water bottle and the 3k bike doesn't. A water bottle with water is about 1.5 lbs. with a cost difference of $1,500 per lb between the two bikes the real question is how thirsty are you? Are you really willing to carry that 1.5 lb water bottle on the next climb?
Underrated comment😂
Richard Peet ahhahaaha yup, pretty agreeable, although it isnt all about the weight in the bottle because of riding characteristics, how maneuverable and nimble front end and the whole bike is due to the lighter frane and components, and if you would have bottle cage near BB actually it would affect your bike quite good on the descents and it will sometimes also help on very technical uphills if you have the legs for the climb. I can tell this by riding many bikes and experimenting by putting weights on different places on the bike and recording the lap times.
just hand your water bottles to your team mates before the climb starts lol.
And the fatass including myself would loose weight, there would even be more Rider and Bike combined weight reduction haha.
Could always have a book bag on with drinks inside
For $9000 you can have $3000 plus BMW G300GS motorcycle. or $3000 Bike with $6000 to spend traveling to ride your 3k bike. With $9000 You can go to New Zealand get $3k bike and enjoy the beautiful trip. Just remember to save $200 to get the bike in the airplane!
Juan Franco for $9000 you can get a bmw s1000rr
@@dylanhunter8669 A used one then. And also an older one.
Otherwise haha no
You should take a newbie rider and put them on the two different bikes to see what their feedback would be! Would be interesting!
For sure. Just pure inexperienced opinions!
@@calebjones032 Why would anyone care about the first impressions of a noob? Their inexperience means that in many cases, their opinions will change over time.
@@JTMarlin8 it would obviously be for fun... That's usually what I associate mountain biking with!
@@MrHunterseeker The differences become more noticeable with experience. Newbies have no idea what they're looking at and would even be susceptible to placebo. A meaningless exercise, IMO.
Newbie riders are probably best to get the cheap one and focus on their skills first
4 pounds for 6.000$, good thing im thin i just saved a lotta money
I prefer to ride a heavy frame as I'm 55kg and I find I have more control on a heavier frame.... my legs love it 😀👍🇭🇲
I lost 70kg ie 2.2 lb = 1kg ... so 4lb is f all stronger bike is better aluminum frame or cro-mo 3k bike and then tune it to you .... I had a $1300 bike at the start now have a 4k hard tail that is awesome so much faster than the other one and better geometry.
Cheapest way to shed weight - when your tires and cassette worn out, slap on lighter ones😉.
There is more than weigth, the fork in the 3000 packs 15 year old tech, a cheap plastic damper inside, it has a daily commuter fork, not a real mtb fork. The rims are cheap "wall mart" rims priced 90$ for the pair.. None of these bikes are good value 4 money.. But I would agree with u, the 3000 is the better option if these where the only bikes in the world!
lol, you savage. I completely agree with you though. I would have to take out a mortgage for the $9,000.00 dollar bike...... 3000.00 is somewhat reasonable, but if you have the money- why not?
There's no difference between them.
Both I can't afford
Education is the key my friend , stay in school and choose a career that holds your interest and has earning potential. Then any bike becomes within your reach. Make smart choices and life is good.
@@scottcarlon6318 please don't think that this is easy for everyone. I live in a country that, if you don't have the money to pay for your education, you're automatically 20 steps behind.
In my high school I've barely had any classes. Lack of teachers, administration etc. Those are just the surface of our educational problems.
It's super hard to study for college exams while you have to work to pay your bills.
It's just not easy.
Biking is a hobby that I try to fit on my weekends and vacation, but I can't afford to spend too much on it.
Our currency is basically worthless.
U$3k is R$14k.
I only make R$1.2K a month, so I would have to work an entire year to pay for a U$3K bike.
Apart from paying my bills of course. Cause if I subtract my monthly spendings (food, electricity, rent, internet), there's barely any money left.
@@andrekaled you don't even have to go to school, learn a trade that pays well, for instance welding in the US is relatively easy to get into and pays well. A lot of people do go to school for welding, however it is much shorter and cheaper... Don't give up, live frugal until you are able to build yourself up. Learn a trade, then earn the money for college or move to a country that has a better economy if you don't mind leaving family, friends, home etc. Never give up, always try to stay positive. You can do anything if you put your mind to it!
@@scottcarlon6318 I did that, now I do earn a lot of money and let me tell you this:
1. Huge proportion of people who train specifically to earn a lot of money instead of what they really are into, end up as being really uninteresting individuals contributing little to the society.
2. Most very highly educated people in fields they are passionate about are paid poorly even though they are crucial for the society and advancement of humanity.
3. Naturally, there is a segment of people where education, interest and money overlap, but this is rather an exception than a rule. Thus does not apply to such blanket advises.
And that's in developed "1st world" countries.
"$3000" "low price point" amazing
Ash Weber-Campbell 3 grand is entry level for a fs enduro bikes
It's a scam, pedal bicycle costs more than a motorcycle. I can make a $20K unicycle too, that's just entry level.
Mark Kilminster 1500 is entry level in Uk
@@violent_bebop9687 yes, but for 4000€ you get a really budget motorcycle or a really good mtb, not the same
@@lukasbormann4830 - if you left it up bike retailers a motorcycle would cost $50,000, and that's just entry level. Don't even start to say nonsense that bike is engineered more than motorcycle.
The difference is eating ramen for a year vs eating ramen for the next ten years
Not so bad if it's the Ramen from H-mart! :p
Hell, just eat grass for a few months
A moment of silence for those with 500$ hardtails
I was there too
i have a hardtail giant atx 3, wanna buy a dartmoor blackbird evo
I’ve got a £500 second hand 2016 giant stance
Andrei im at an 800$ Canadian hardtail started working and I’m gonna buy an enduro bike this week!
500$? I'm riding a second hand Cannondale sl3 (2014) for €300 so im not even there
You guys are getting 500$ hardtails? Mine is like 150$, yet it is surprisingly quite good.
Upgrading a humble bike is such a good feeling too, you get to choose the components and really get to know those trick parts you bought. All the quirks and maintenance points are always at the top of your mind too, since you know exactly how they were installed and how they should look and feel. Also your bike will be pretty unique and it's just a killer feeling.
wrong. buying components seperately is expensive. save money from those maintenance as well, those suspension maintenance is not cheap. save up the money you'll spend for upgrades. Around 3-5 years sell your bike to upgrade to a better, modern, updated, brand new bike.
@@tonyo5 why would I. Buying a cheaper Bike, maybe used, is a good entry and you have a reliable base. Then you can upgrade the things that are important to you and your skill level. I dont care about the highest end drivetrain on top spec bikes. I prefer having decent brakes and a good and well tuned suspension, which is often overlooked. Plus you don't have to spend the entire money on one buy.
Having the ability to choose exactly the parts you want is important. Building an entire bike from scratch however is expensive as shit.
And pls dont cheap out on maintenance...do you treat your car like that? There is a reason for these intervals and a 2 year old fork that is used how its inteded to be doesnt feel like a fresh serviced one.
@@timbrunner3347 If you buy a brand new bike that's $2999 (with 1 year warranty) you'll get the most of your money rather than buying a 2-4 year old second hand bike (hit and miss) that's $1200-1500 and then buying parts for upgrade down the line (groupset, brakes, 2 suspension maintenance, tyres, bearings will add up to $1000+ easily). Boost standards have taken over and it's getting harder to find brand new non-boost parts these days and geometry have changed from the past 5 years. Factor in also the resale value after a couple of years if you're selling. Best route is look for last year's model which I guarantee you they will slash 20-40% off retail price.
So you pick a bike, a 30% discounted brand new last year's model or a used bike that needs upgrading + maintenance and is somewhat outdated for roughly the same amount of money down the line? Also, NEW BIKE DAY FEELS, we don't get to have that feeling quite often.
You're both kindof right. I'm a racer and converted roadie who used to build from frame up. For CX/mrb I always buy a complete bike in my budget because of compatibility, and taking advantage of OEM pricing (have you ever looked at Fox retail prices?). At the same time, I do upgrade parts that break or wear. My slx shifter died after 3 seasons and replaced it with xtr. So much better feeling! Better tires, chain, cassette and sprockets as they wear out. When the stock wheels die I might get carbon ones.
@@tonyo5 Yeah, that's what I do. If you happen to fit a XS or S frame size, they blow out those prices and the end of the year because they always have a few hanging around which the retailers just want to get rid of.
i mean, $3000 still isn't cheap
$3k not cheap but your getting.a lotta mtb compared to 10year or more years ago believe me
@@JohnSmith-qv6hp 3k for a mtb I'd buy a dirt bike you get way more out of ur money then
@@willdabeast144 not really, that's like saying you'll buy a car, but
A) the dirt bike will be a cheap one
B) I don't want that, I want a bike! It's a completely different sport
@@willdabeast144 thats would be the walmart mountain bike of dirt bikes, and a lot of people dont have a place where you can ride a dirt bike thats easily accesible/close
@@JohnSmith-qv6hp 10 years ago $3k got me my Stumpjumper EVO in 26", happy ever after.
Oh sure, I have no doubt that I could FEEL the difference between a drive trail on a $9,000 bike and a $3,000 bike.
The question is, would I care.
9k bike should be coated in kashima entirely. Just submerge the thing in liquid kashima coating after assembly. And the tire sealant needs to have kashima particles. And oil slick kashima drive train with a 18 speed cassette and telekinetic wireless shifting. Non-kashima rotors are out of the question. And make the whole thing out of carbon. There you have it!
Frank Ricard Kashima is for wankers Rockshox live on 🔥🔥🔥
Nope Öhlins perform much better then Fox
Rockshox is better 😐
@@antoanangelov5672 ahahahhahahaahhaha
OMG 😂
Me with my 200$ watching 3000$ bike vs 9000$ bike : hmmm yes
Roadmaster for you
I really enjoyed Bo’s objective view on the bikes. Really paid attention to the details while keeping a 10,000 foot view.
We aim to keep our reviews very high level, Bo is on a no nonsense program.
Just need to work on Bo's sag settings...looked way off.
She has great taste too, because she loved the blue one! Blue is always faster and more fun. :-)
more of a 3 foot view
Im sitting here with my $800 dollar bike going "man this was expensive" while these guys are comparing 3k vs 8k and it's like "3k bike is meh". Wut.
Lol I got Focus mk3 car from 2012 that was cheaper than that fucking orange bike. What do this guys work for a living?😂😂😂
@@bogdanpali maybe because its a dogshit ford focus
agreed, i have decent and thought it fancy. then started watching youtube vids..... only real big thing ive seen that i dont have is seat droper ... that would be nice... my poor ass has to pull quick realese and push my seat down like a poper
My hardtail costed 500 € (it was reduced from 800) with far less fancy components than the ones in the video. Despite this I like it very much, most cyclists (me included) could not anyway use the full potential of a very expensive bike.
@No Scoper waste off money you could buy a car for that money
Got an 800 dollar MTB, and its like the best thing I've ever felt
You're damn right
Just imagine what $9000 would feel like if $800 is awesome
Oh dam I'm riding $20 schwinn 🤔 lmao 😂
Free road bike borrowing my friends hardtail
Same, I love my hardtail. I do want to ride one of these crazy expensive bikes at some point just to see the difference tho.
I'd rather do a custom build than buy anything stock anymore
Cliff J for sure! I’ve started buying frame only and getting all the parts I want right from the start.
Just built a carbon canyon strive, w/ rochshox monarch rc, rockshox lyrik, and full sram nx eagle drivetrain. You want to know the price? 2100€
Buy used people
lol same
me too waste off money if it gets stolen
If i knew how to put it together i would totally go that route as well.
I know I've been out of the game for a while but 3K is now considered "entry level?" WTF?
It's BS to be honest. $500 is entry level. $3000 is high-mid level. $9000 is for pros
@@65Drums are you sure?? a good cheap full suspension cost from 2600usd but a good cheap hardtail from 600usd this is price in denmark(expensive country:)
No it's not
My bike is 800 plus new wheels and I would say it's just above entry level, but I also think it's the cheapest you can go for a "proper" mtb
400 - full entry level
700 to 1300 - entry to mid
Up to 2500 - mid
Up to 4500 - high
Above 4500 - off the scale
makes my 900$ bike look like crap .... im prob 50 pounds heavier then both those bikes
and id not take the chances they take with there front forks as i know it would bottom out and most likely snap something
If I could spend 9k on a bike I would not get a stock bike! For that much you can get any of the parts you want on a full custom build!
something built by someone who know's what they're doing when matching parts (or more likely a team of people) are going to build a much better bike than the average cyclist could just choosing their favorite parts.
If you've ever done a frame up build there's a load of work involved to make sure everything is 100% compatible and unless you're familiar with frame up builds you're guaranteed to forget something small in the build (seat collar, brake mount adapter, etc). The stock build off the floor 9k bike is for the customer that doesn't really want to mess with things or deal with incompatibilities.
For the past few weeks I've been dealing with a ti gravel bike running sram axs levers paired to hope calipers on ice tec rotors and everything is compatible on paper but in practice there's a vibration that develops under braking. Fun custom bike things.
I'd buy an Unno, not some stupid DaVinci.
I would totally buy a good aluminum frame and then buy all best components I can put on, and would be not even 7k with much better build than the 9k bike, for sure...! And 2k extra cash not bad tho...
I would choose the 9000$ bike, SELL IT and buy something that I will ride and not put in a glass box
you should do a version of this where you compare a new $9k bike ... versus the $3k bike with $6k worth of upgrades ... to show weather you're better off saving up and buying the bike with the parts you want already on it or upgrading
@Animagus Borealis that would be the only thing that wouldn't change ... i was talking about what is going to be better dollar for dollar ... even tho i'm pretty sure just buying the buying the better one in the first place will be better ... because the large brands are able to buy parts in bulk and get them much cheaper than aftermarket
@@pympin87 you would think that but they are really just making large returns on their products.
A bike is a vehicle to a perfect state of mind. They are sacred machines.
Amen
True but, but on the other hand i often use my Scott Genius LT 40 with a migraine so...not sure.
Both... Bought an (Al framed) Specialized Enduro Comp and upgraded it with Guide RSC Levers, X01 Eagle & Roval Traverse SL carbon wheels. Attempted to make it a single quiver rig. But it's strength really is in Park settings where there isn't a ton of pedaling. In hind sight those upgrades cost ~4k on top of the bike itself. Next up, fully custom built Yeti SB140 for local trail riding. Going custom, no compromises on parts selection and end up saving a bit, due to bundling and not paying for stuff that would get swapped out after the fact. Thing is, not everyone is going to feel compelled to pay super crazy $$$, for the super dialed rig. And that's ok. Ride what makes you happy. I certainly am. And, until the new rig shows up in the mail, i’ll just hang out on the trainer, so I don't run out of breath riding the new "Engineer's Bike" from the truck to the trailhead. Lol!! 😅😇👍
I personally like aluminum because it’s much more durable in crashes/rocks when you try to push your skills. Less vibration through the bike also to my hands. Feels like when bikes are too light they just deflect off everything easier. Once you ride on a regular bases a few pounds difference seems obsolete once you get in decent shape. I could change 3 pounds in weight depending on what I eat for dinner. Not gonna spend an extra 5k. I do like better brakes and shifter for feel. I also like the feel of a stiffer fork such as lyric over pike.
28 lbs isnt deflecting off anything.
John DeF I feel like it does. When weighting and un weighting the bike though chunky sections I little extra weight feels much smoother and doesn’t feel like it jars or deflects as much as a 3-4 pound lighter bike.
I also prefer aluminum when it comes to all mountain/enduro/downhill, the only parts in carbon would be the brake lever and the crank arms. It would be nerve wracking to approach a proper gnarly and steep rock garden on a carbon frame and carbon wheeled bike IMHO.
my large 2013 aluminum sb95 yeti is 29.4 pounds, carbon is look beefy
Me looking at a $3k bike drooling lol I can make up that 4 lb weight difference by not eating a cheeseburger that week but I do understand the advantages its like choosing a corvette over a ferrari they are both going to get you there quickly and in style but there is a certain refinement differences between the two.
That lighter bike is still 4 pounds less regardless of what you eat.
I’m with fat guy though. It’s easier for me to eat less then justify spending $9k on a bike. I have a hard time with more then $1k on a used bike at this point (keeps me riding older bikes for now).
except...
1) Every Corvette, like only the highest end Ferraris, is hand built.
2) The Corvette is still a 245mph supercar. Yes, the highest end Ferraris can do 260, 280mph, but you're paying well over 3mil for that when you could pay just 200,000 for a vette and soup that sucker up to do 260mph. You're still paying less for the same quality, because with Ferrari, you are paying a lot for the brand name. Its like going to the store and buying a $4 giant bag of generic cereal vs a $6 tiny box of brand name cereal. Its the same exact stuff, but without all the marketing costs associated with the brand name.
3) Ferraris are often made of fiberglass or carbon body panels, depending on price point. Corvettes are made primarily of fiberglass to make it easier to produce, paint, and assemble. Frames will always be steel in Corvettes. Not sure on the Ferrari frame, as I don't care enough to worry about it.
4) Corvettes SOUND better! Who likes the growl and whine of a v12 instead of the confident rumble and roar of a V8? I guess only hypercar fans..
5) Corvettes have the bolt in Lingenfelter mod available, which instantly brings the car's top speed up to 260mph. Ferrari doesn't have anything like that, as far as I've heard. And you can STILL upgrade that mod to make it do 280mph! All under $500k!
All I know is I ain't spending 3 million on any one car, I'll spend it on three or four Lingenfelter Corvettes and a house!
I like how you guys gave a strong lean to the lower-spec bike, where I feel a lot of comparisons tend to shout about how inferior it is to the high end bike, and almost make it seem like "if you're only gonna spend that much, you're just wasting your money". As someone with too many hobbies and too little income to justify $10k on a pedal bike, I would definitely fall into the category of "buy the lower spec and upgrade parts over time". I'm not racing, I don't think .2 seconds down my local singletrack is going to make or break my day.
As a weight lifter I have a hard time wrapping my head around excessive weight reduction. For me moving the bike is part of the challenge. I'm saying this as someone who weighs 230lbs. Please excuse my obvious ignorance.
most bike riders cant even lift 230lbs so they need all the help they can get. even if that means spending an extra 6k to nock off 4lbs from there already super light bike loooooooool
Cycling isn't about making the bike as difficult as possible to ride. We could just add giant, heavy tires or drag weights.
The challenge lies in what terrain you can ride. Ride farther, bigger hills, more difficult terrain, etc. A lighter bike, for similar style bikes, will generally make it easier to do these things.
A light bike is just more fun. Thats really what it comes down to. Lighter is more funner. Even if you're strong, a lighter bike is more fun. If you're weak, a lighter bike is more fun. Now, here's the deal though, any bike is fun. SO you're going from fun to funner, not unfun to fun. Gotta keep that in mind.
Powerlifter/Strongman here. I'm in the same situation. Not willing to cut down because that means less power. So I just got an E-Bike and dont care at all about weight. Still Love my regular Bike, but being able to ride faster, further and higher is awesome and gets me on the bike a lot more.
Me too. Powerlifter. Obviously lighter is better, but these poundage differences are miniscule compared to the amount of weight I may put on or take off of my own body over the period of a few months. I can lose 4 pounds in a month or two and save myself a few grand, but then again, I am not a competitive cyclist.
I’ve always been in the buy once cry once category. I either rented bikes or used hand me down bikes until I realized this is something I really like. I ended up choosing the yeti sb150 and I’m happy I waited! Love it
Should've used the accent
Braŭljo instead he used that other awful accent 😛
Friday for oz
Giday from OZ
Then they would have to travel to Darwin and video!
I'd always start with upgrading the tires :) Best upgrade and also the first one everyone should try.
I've put a Maxxis Assegai DD Maxxgrip on my Canyon Spectral, holy shit is this tire great, it grips even on wet/muddy roots. It's even better than the dhf!
Before that I was running a Wild Enduro, super rolling and grippy tire, but not on wet roots, it was the slippiest front tire on wet roots I have ever ridden :-D
The Wild Enduro is a great tire if mounted on the rear!
I ride in pretty dry and loose stuff, and Continental Trail Kings outperform Schwalbe Hans Dampfs in every way in those conditions. I haven't tested any other brands yet, but I don't exactly have a 10k budget to throw away.
how do you like the canyon spectral?
I died when you introduced Bo with the kids yelling in the background 😂
Thank you for making this kind of comparison. I am not a dentist, or an orthodontist, I have kids and bills and unfortunately a lower spec bike is all I will ever be able to afford. And as we know, most of the reviews are for top spec.
So I will be buy the lower spec bike just because it is all I will ever be able to afford.
Feel like wheels and brakes are easily one where they save on cost - and probably good so, they are easiest to upgrade.
Not that 2-3k bike has bad either, they are just fine. 2000 €/$ can get you full suspension trail bike, dropper seat post, decent fox suspension and gx drivetrain, which is already a quite good deal.
what bike would be that with 2k euros?
@@ioulios11 Canyon Neuron as example. If you want a bit more travel and 27.5", Canyon Spectral but it costs just little more.
YT also makes great bikes to same price range.
These are the good old times my friend...Thank you for reminding us !
Sam Pilgrim: Hold my monny. Jumps on the freebs
Mitchell Jarvis
Yiptiptoptap
It’s literally hard to spend $9k on a brand new stock enduro motorcycle. That’s crazy, top end mtb bikes were about $5k when i stopped riding and they had 26” wheels.
same here. I paid 9k for my brand new dirt bike.
But entry level bikes 3k now are better than the top end 5k bikes of that time. Just something to consider
The kid is just a blessed lovely being from heaven...i love the red one but really respect the blue one; the kid loves it😊😊😊
I’ve been riding 5 times....and I’m hooked, watching all these different channels, Looking at bikes, parts, trails. This is a great hobby!
I wonder what these bikes ride like, I’ve been riding my brothers 2012 Hardtail that is a size too big for me
I actually have the Aluminum Troy in a GX build, it's been a great bike for me and cost $3,250. I never thought I would spend more than that on a bike, but I just put an order in for a Revel Ranger frame and fork, in total the bike will cost about $7,500 when it's all built up. Amazing what you can justify spending when you get hooked on a sport and start going into the rabbit hole of researching gear. Turns out I like xc and long intermediate trails the most, and the Troy is great but not the best tool for the job.
Dude amazing! And you're right. As you fall in love with a sport the toys get more expensive but I think that's ok as long as you're still financially smart and loving life riding nicer bikes 😁
Folks where I ride spend too much money on expensive kit and neglect the important things like building their skill set and improving their fitness level. They also feel the need to ride 5-6" travel bikes on trails where skilled riders shred on a hardtail with a 100mm fork and 2.2 tires. They usually pull up to the trail head driving some sort of large truck with wheels/tires that barely fit and trailer mirrors, yet the truck has no hitch. How embarrassing.
Hey man just let em be. If that's how they wanna live no need to be a slight douche about it. Lol
Good point...Guys does this in mx too...improving your skill level and fitness is your best investment and it does translate to mtb and any sport really.
Ride for yourself and don’t worry about what others are doing and especially what they are driving. That’s almost rule #1 in mountain biking
Today i ordered the water bottle and every month i will upgrade something on it until i've got my $9,000 Mountain Bike
Planning on going full squish in the spring. I will target a $2-2.5k bike and slowly upgrade. What you need to get you on the trail and enjoying the mountain does not need to cost a damn fortune. Paying over $5-6k for a bike is snob status for sure. That being said, MTB is a serious hobby where nothing is cheap and those that enjoy it (hell, or any hobby for that matter) are free to burn their cash however they please.
Check those Canyon! Amazing value for the money.
Definitely check out the direct buy market (Canyon, YT, Fezzarri...) the components you get for the price can't be beat. I picked up a Canyon 2 weeks ago, and I love it
After weight the biggest factor has to be durability. My bike was somewhere between those two in terms of price range and the alu wheels while heavier were also made of playdoh. At a certain point the upgrades you're talking about aren't a choice but a necessity after you bang up the cheaper components. Droppers are notorious for going awry, derailleurs get smashed to oblivion, pedal bushings turn to dust etc. The only really reliable parts are probably the saddle, cranks, and bar/stem. Also very surprised you didn't mention the difference in tires.
Great vid! Awesome to hear about the difference in feel when it comes to riding vs just stats. Also great to hear about biker snob thoughts along with a more recreational rider perspective. Pinning this video to share with any friends when they inevitably ask this question after getting hooked on the sport.
This was the first video iv seen from this channel, and let me tell you, that accent was convincing and i thought i was watching GMBN for a second
Good video. Ultimately the biggest upgrade you can make is improving fitness and technical skills.
I ride a 3k fs largely customized, and I have as much fun as I did 30yrs ago on my hardtail with caliper brakes and a fork with two inches of travel . But man the bikes these days are awesome!!!
Bottom line, is the expensive bike worth the 6k premium for your skill level/enjoyment factor?
Exactly! Get a bike that is right for you, there is no need to spend nearly $10k if you only ride 4 times a year, for that you could get something way less expensive that will do the trick.
I myself got a 2022 Diamondback Release 2 as my first mountain bike, and I love it! I plan to slowly build it up and upgrade the rear shock, the fork, the brakes, etc. but very happy with the quality of the Release 2, Good color of blue too.
Hub engagement is why some people like fixie bikes soo much. Power transfer from peddle to wheel to ground is instantaneous.
But I'd rather have gears for hills so no fixie for me.
Onyx hub..boom!
@@LuisManuelHdez Wow I didn't know hubs could be silent.
great video. I would have to stress one huge difference is shifting performance. The $3000 bike's drivetrain will work flawlessly for about 2 shifts and then be garbage forever. You have to spend a ton of money to get good shifting. plus, there is a huge difference in the front suspension which most people will notice. suspension these days is pretty good at the higher end of things. Plus, Taylor's phone number. she forgot to post it!
Im with miss Bo, the blue one is for sure the best bike in the world!
In classic Weaver fashion.
New title:
“Expensive bike vs stupid expensive bike”
I own a Trek Fuel EX8 and testet a Santa Cruz Hightower LT X01 and I think the difference is not worth the money. But a few days later i got a Santa Cruz Megatower CC XTR and I bought one 🤟
Just get the GX build, problem solved. Gotta say, the red Troy is dead sexy. Such a clean frame and subtle branding. Do want!
His hair looks like he just went 100 mph backwards
Haha it does!
I do like the comparison videos your team post. I can relate to the differences you mentioned from a demo ride by Yeti in my home town. The T series Yeti's with x01 were way more comfortable to shift than the gx on the C series. My ride for now is a 2006 yeti asr with industry nine 26" wheels. The smaller wheels make the bike feel extremely playful and poppy, but scares the heck out of me in rock gardens and real tech-y parts of trails.
Im from australia, that actually wasnt a bad crack at the accent
Thanks mate 😏
I found it pretty bad ahaha
@@liamquinn5518 compared to some other weird mix of south african, nz and some other thing people do, it was pretty ok. But no attempt will ever be as good as us lads from down under.
You could be the dialogue coach for the channel and introduce new words to us each video!
Went from Fuel ex 8 ($3200) to Fuel ex 9.9 (8500). The only thing I would add is the added stiffness and compliance in the carbon components
Started MTBing back in the late 80's. I wanna say, that none of the differences shown are worth 6k $. As you said, it's all about being a bike snob, or not 😂. Spending like 5-6k on a complete is by far enough and should work for like 90% of the hobby/amateur riders. (My ride: costum Demo8). Great video,tho.
P.S. Dear Bo, 29ers are taller than you 😜.
Hey - It's not just about being a bike snob. One point you didn't mention when discussing the fine details was, the fine brake adjustments of the RSC's, and the drivetrain differences will be more important when riding more extreme terrain. That's when you really need fine brake adjustments and brake feel is super important. Likewise, you really need a drivetrain that hooks up instantly and lightweight wheels to put the power down.
Nevertheless, a valid comparison.
So basically if someone just wants a bike for riding some easy trails and nothing hardcore there is no reason for them to buy a 9k bike over a 3k bike is what i am hearing.
For riding easy trails they can use a $100 dollar bike.
The trail he tested on I could ride my Bmx down
You should never need a 9k bike. Until you are riding a 3k bike to its limit and holding you back then you should upgrade.
@@OktaFierce 100 will buy you a super cheap unsafe bike, at least spend like 150 on a second hand bike
@@sexatica Nah. Buy once, cry once; if you are serious about getting into the hobby then everything on the nicer bike will still help you. Just...don't buy a $9,000 bike, ride it twice, and then not touch it again for years.
Great video. I bought a lower end build bike and am slowly upgrading it with nicer components.
I like buying the lower price point building my own bike is part of the fun getting carbon wheels next week . I do truly enjoy piece by piece customizing great video
99.9% of people should have a $3K bike. A. because these bike prices are getting out of control. B. Unless you're a pro and sponsored you don't need a $9K bike. C. Spend what you want, it's not my money.
Upgrading is adicting, and very expensive,, I speak from experience, better off paying as much as you can at the start, until it hurts, it will hurt anyway you look at it, there are great bikes in the middle of those two.. I crash a lot less on a light bike too, at my age thats a BIG bonus, my bike? Specialized Epic Expert,, I took many upgrades off my old bike, Carbon bars/seatpost, XO1 Eagle, Renegade tires, 23.9 pounds now. with pedals/computer.. next upgrade, Sram XD Driver...
Yes, I am a bike snob. I have an SC Nomad and a Pivot Shuttle (XTR build).
I also have a Bronson and a Haibike as backups.
The differences between the $3-4K and $8-10K builds are huge. XTR or X01 vs an NX is beyond comparing. When you try a Hope V4 or Saint or XT 4 piston, you just don't want Guides or Maguras around anymore. A good shock with stiff wheels, dialed in sag/rebound.
Just going from a Fox 32 to a 34 or a 34 Factory feels like sitting into a BMW after your beater Ford Pickup (I have a beater Ford pickup that is probably worth less than my Shuttle).
Longevity is also a "thing". 4 year old X01 derailleur: perfect, never had to touch
2 year old NX : side-play, messed up, the whole thing goes to the garbage as soon as I figure how to swap stuff around the bikes (probably to be replaced by an XT) ...
The Haibike's dropper compared to a Transfer or the Rockshox or even the 5+ years old KS is the same.... sure .. both works. Except when it doesn't. Except when you spend half an hour in the rain in the middle of the forest, trying to figure out why it keeps sliding down or not going up....
So ... it is not a show-off thing. When I have time for 3 runs. Do I want to enjoy crisp shifting, or stopping and putting the chain back for the 3rd time, because I have NX on that bike.... and wondering why my hands are blue from Magura Blood after that 500m vertical drop ...
So yep ... these things do matter. You don't have to race or be a pro to want to enjoy good shifting, good suspension or good brakes.
For the record: my $6800-ish Nomad came with unacceptable WTB seat (that broke), Guides (changed to Hope after a month), and WTB wheels that were super hard to seat tubeless on (replaced with Crank Brothers) .... And Santa Cruz shipped it with a piece of crap cassette. Even though they marketed it as the X01 build, the X01 cassette cost me $500 at the time :O
so even a $7000 build carries crap... or just stuff you will eventually replace with better stuff.
Just my 2c. But again... I am a complete bike snob... I have to admit though, that I cannot find one single component on my Shuttle that I would want to replace. I am trying, but I cannot :) I only have 4 rides on the thing though :O ... maybe a longer stem and wider bars, but it is not a "need better" thing, more like ergonomics...
I think people should take a approach more like Bo's. If you love it... Who cares what you ride. To many people get caught up in the BS of it all. Bring and ride what ya got.
Great video! I really liked the part-by-part weight breakdown in the blog. If going for something in the middle of the two, what's better...Aluminum frame with carbon parts are Carbon Frame with Aluminum parts?
I'd say carbon frame with aluminum parts so that when you upgrade you can get carbon parts.
Me watching this video while I have a 160$ bike 🥵
I have a 0 $ bike because i found it in the park. After fixing it up it rides well. The back tire is soo worn out that i can see the second layer
One massive visual advantage on the higher priced bike is the internal routed cables. Makes the bike look so much cleaner.
Tho even on my trek merlin 7(around 600usd) it has internal routed cables
You know what really grinds my gears....On Jeff's laptop, why does he have his WC sticker centered on the globe and not the sticker as a whole?
It's hipster when it's offset like that brah.
Actually it's because it's covering the ASUS logo and that is the only position to cover the entire logo on there 💩
@@WorldwideCyclery #avantlink(faceslap)
Got a good deal on an entry level Yeti sb140 regular C frame. I already have a Turq sb130 X01 build. Have to say the 140 blows the 130 away in every way. It just under 2 lbs heavier and only has Fox Performance, where the 130 has all Factory stuff. AND I got the 140 for 3k less
That was a good ass accent actually!
I've been practicing for quite some time! I'm glad you approve!
@@WorldwideCyclery Better than Robert Downey JR and he's a pro actor!
@@davros666 He's just a dude dressed as a dude pretending to be another dude.
@@WorldwideCycleryhalf decent Oz accent mite
What accent where you trying to do
I have an Orbea Occam that I’ve felt is the best bike I’ve ridden! I’ve ridden Yeti and Specialized as well. Riding has to do with the rider not the pocket book
I dont necessarily agree here. U can have a nice bike if you wait for end of year model sales. IMHO is the way to go unless you're the gotta have it before everyone else type. No way in hell I'm dropping anywhere near 9k on no pedal pony! Its ludicrous!!
LuisManuelHdez that’s why I buy used, there’s great deals on low hr bikes out there. I saw a great bike for 2 grand recently that had basically zero ride time, it was a Trek the guy lost over 1000 bucks and only rode it a few times on gravel roads near his house
Turtles Fabricaton, agreed. I picked up a shiny brand new Stumpjumper expert for $3800.00 .. original price 1 yr ago $5500.00!!! Still a little steep but I've been lusting after it for a while😂. Can't say I'd go over 5k on the best build ever! I just dont like to throw my $$ away. The industry is either out of touch with reality or just plain robbing us blind without shame.
well explained, as a salesperson (not bikes) i always tell people, performance is relative, you don't know what you don't know, same thing with bikes.
Those details cost an extra 6k... So it comes down to how much cash (or credit) you're able to throw around! 🤔🤷🏾♂️
What about bearings??? Any difference there??
"$3000 low price point", me with my $700 Diamondback hardtail
I have a pinnacle kapur 2 aha
@@Dom2oo4 I have a roadmaster
@@Dom2oo4 Suntour coil fork, shimano altus which is designed for a city bike at best.
Yeah there is a reason to spend a few quid more for something that will last.
That being said a 800-1200 bike won't have any of those issues. And that's what i see the most here in the forests.
(rockshox recon/30 forks, Shimano SLX groupsets, alu frames, 29 inch wheels) Various brands with similar trim levels.
I've got a second hand specialized rockhopper comp 29 but I've spent a few hundred upgrading it
accent was actually pretty good, dude. good video.
How much POC Tectals do u have? lol
I have the same, it`s amazin helmet)
Haha agreed! Almost everyone in our shop in Cali has one. They are not sponsoring us or anything. We pay for those because they look good and are comfortable 😁
Everyone is gangsta till medium price bikes are more expensive then motorbikes
idk bout the differences but here's a similarity:
I can't afford either
I bought a 2001 Klein Attitude Race hardtail back in 2000. It costs me about $2,100. Best purchase i ever made. It's been so reliable and has performed very well. I guess a bike like that would probably be in the $3,000 range today.
Oh, the color of the bike is VERY important. To me, the bike has to look cool.
7:45 is the real answer for this topic.. 🙂
When you consider the cost of making nicer parts out of nicer materials, for a smaller and smaller market as you go up the ladder, that’s part of the driving force behind the price increases. Yes I’ve worked on the retail side of the industry, yes I know about mark up and cost vs retail price. Just saying. XX1 has a MUCH smaller volume than NX, this all production costs (engineering, tools, materials) is spread across a much smaller set of buyers.
i prefer aluminum.
Same they should spec out the aluminum ones the same as carbon. They might be surprised.
Damn, i am so lucky that my nearly 4k bike covers most of what you've said over the 9k bike. And it is carbon.Thank you Cube Bikes :)
Good damn job with the accent!! SERIOUSLY! LOL
Interesting. From your blog I see the $3k bike is a little shy of 15kg and the $9k bike is a tad under 13kg so 3 times the price for a weight reduction of about 2kg or 12.6%. I bought my road bike at Aldi's for a lot less than these, it came with an aluminium alloy frame, cranks and wheel rims and weighs 11.1kg. Admittedly it has no suspension and it would probably fall apart if I tried to use it where these bikes would compete. Still I feel a little happier now about my machine than I probably should. Thanks for the video Worldwide Cyclery.
Just ride your bike and have fun!
I noticed foam (or something) on the bike stand clamps, is that what y'all do to keep the dropper post safe?
Yeah we just wrap a microfiber rag around the clamp heads as it seems to prolong the life of the clamps and also protect a dropper post even more.
I'd go for the $5k one
That's really good info about the hubs! I never knew about hub engagement
Difference is
You have money VS YOU HAVE MONEY!!!!!!!!!
Lol
I've been to the trail they biked on.
I like me a Devinci but I have Santacruz 😧. He is bike snob because he can afford to be. My question is are you actually getting something better ? Or is it like buying a BMW where it feels great, looks great but spends a lot of time in the shop because it’s poorly engineered.
I think snob is the wrong word though because being a snob involves being a douche and he’s not a douche at all. I believe he’s more a connoisseur, an expert judge in matters of taste. Good job Jeff.
You are getting something better, in this case they literally have all the same engineers on these two builds, they are just making one more cost effective.
Not necessarily "better", but with these bikes in particular, it's worth noting that devinci alu is sourced locally and welded in house here in Quebec whereas they outsource their carbon frames to a chinese manufacturer. Not to say the carbon frames aren't high quality, but the alloy frames are incredible (fyi I ride that same Troy NX but in silver)
IMO - One big difference you didn't mention is the Al frame has external cables. The C6 frame has internal cable routing. It doesn't matter from a performance PoV, but the internal cable routing looks a lot more tidy... But I'm being a bike snob too. 😁