I cleaned my throttle body in my 2002 Tacoma and it helped it with the idle. My Tacoma has 300k miles on the clock. I hope this is the last truck I ever buy.
Thanks for the video. It was very interesting and informative. I knew about cleaning the throttle body but your comments and suggestions were fantastic!
I keep a toothbrush in my tool box for cleaning parts like that. You can heat the bristle end and bend it 90 degrees for cleaning inside stuff like that throttle body. You can use small paint brushes too. Cutting off half of the bristles to shorten them will make the brush stiffer for scrubbing harder to loosen dirt faster. You DIY folks might want to keep the shaft horizontal when spraying into the unit, so that a lot of the liquid can't get inside the unit by running down the shaft & into the hole. I doubt enough could get inside the unit to mess something inside there up, but you never know. You would probably need to use a LOT of spray for that to happen! And it's not a part from a space capsule, or the Webb Space Telescope, where a piece of dust or fingerprint is a big deal. Mine needs cleaning, but I'm reluctant to start fooling around with 23 year old rubber parts, when it runs fine other than at idle, when it runs a bit fast. I never sit in traffic, so it is no big deal. I think I will stick with the, 'if it ain't broke don't fix it', philosophy for now. If it starts acting up, I'll tackle it. I've got one pollution system code, but down South, that isn't a problem. Last inspection, the fellow never bothered to start the SUV, or get inside it. Maybe my mirror finished stainless steel grille and chromed differential cover impressed him that everything was perfect. If I can't smell gasoline in my enclosed, windowless garage, I doubt I will destroy the planet with escaping gasoline fumes.
Thanks so much, Peter…going to do this to the wife’s 2016 Lincoln MKX 3.7 V6 with 102,000 miles…It actually runs like new. I do 5,000 mile oil changes since new with new filter. And Coolant changes every 50,000 miles..Trans drain and fill with new filter every 50,000 miles
Peter, first of all, thank you very much for your videos, you are great! And I've learned so much of them, also to share you my experience: I cleaned my Throttle body and MAF on my 2002 Toyota Camry and the Check Engine Light came on, It was running perfectly, no rough idle, no jerking or something indicating I had a vacuum leak, anyway I kind of freaked out and got it to AutoZone to get it scanned and it threw a P0110 code, I'm not sure if the guys at autozone cleared the code or it went away on itself but after scanning the Check Engine light went off, It has not came back about 100 miles later and car keeps running good.
2nd comment- never use paper towels! I did a timing belt on a 4.7 and it immediately went into limp home mode…I was panicking…turned out it was a tiny sliver of paper that had wedged in the side bushing of the TB plate. Pulled with tweezers and it has run great for a year now.
Hi Peter! This is my first time commenting, but I've watched many of your videos since I happened upon your channel. I really enjoy your content, and I appreciate it! I'm at the age where I like to soak up knowledge, and your channel helps. I own a 2005 Toyota Tundra Sr5 Double Cab 2WD with the 4.7 V8, and I feel fortunate to do so. I bought it from a guy that was meticulous about his preventive maintenance, so even though it has 171,000 miles on it, it runs perfect. I know you have a Tundra now that you're restoring, so that's fun to watch. My question is this: Where are you from? I can understand you just fine, but I always crack up when you say "engine". I can't quite make out that accent :) Carry on, and thanks again for the great content!
My 06 Mustang would stall going downhill/around curbs/on the freeway and try to lurch into traffic at stop signs/lights- very scary! It was nothing more than a dirty TB. Keep them clean folks! Dramatically helped idle on my 88 IROC as well- the Idle Air Control passages were gunked up and even keeping it from seating 100%
That was a great learning lesson. My concern is not to damage any electrical component. Without removing bolts and the entire Throttle body, can I just spray inside and try to dry it with napkins. Would that do the job to a certain point!
Nice job, I have a 06 tundra 4.7 and I cleaned it from outside a few times, It has always when doing a cold start ran a 2000-2200 rpm’s is it possible in needs removing and cleaned, I’ll have to check it, seems like it always has idled at 2000-2200 rpm’s the 7 years I owned it, seems very high idle from any other cars I’ve owned, and seems to take 5-8 minutes to idle down to normal 8-900 rpms when warm, even does it in hot weather if truck been setting for long time, kind of annoying to have to put in gear at that high of idle. Thanks bud great video.
Im battling a misfire in my 2007 tundra with the 5.7 engine. Have just put new spark plugs and it didnt fix the misfire, so i will be cleaning the maf and throttle body, i also im awaiting a bolt for a section of my upper intake manifold on drivers side, perhaps that is an issue with the misfire, had code p0300, p0301, p0303, p0307 and now mostly p0307, no codes for the passenger side. I dont believe i have a coolant issue in the cylinders, no loss of coolant, the old plugs were quite carboned up, not whitewashed at all from coolant, not wet with oil. Worn out mostly, but still had spark in my spark plug tester. Im going to clean these two items and replace that intake bolt and if thwt doesnt fix it, im going to replace all of the fuel injectors
Can you use a toothbrush to get into those tight areas to clean it good? I have a 2007 tundra sr5 5.7 and I haven't done this since I have owned it. Also need to probably clean the maf and replace Spark plugs. Love your videos, very informative.
I was in the same position with an 07. I scrubbed the throttle body and sprayed the MAF for the first time last year.The car's throttle response is incredibly improved. Like a serious difference. This guy's channel has another video where he shows you specifically how to take everything apart to clean it, including the MAF. The car was confused when I first started it up and it does take a day or two for the computer to relearn how much air to take in.
Maybe, but these newer vehicles are so complex, with sensors measuring everything connected to the computer which makes thousands of adjustments a minute, that I wouldn't change anything. You never know what might change, and send the computer incorrect data. You might exchange a small problem for a bigger one.
@@billsimpson604 good point there but I have put oil catch cans on many new modern vehicles, some of them have done over 100,000 miles as well as my own 1GRFE and diesel Toyotas and so far no issues but a cleaner intake tract and less oil on filter.
Hi Really helpful videos! I purchased a 2000 tundra recently. I do have a question.. When I driving my tundra, at first the oil presure goes up with the rpms.. its goes really high! Not the maxed out top line on the gauge but the one just below that.. Surprisingly, I haven't seen to much information on the symptom. There are people saying that they're tundra fluctuates but only just above the half way point. Thoughts or suggestions, anybody? Thanks again for great content. Subscribed and notified :) Cheers
Avoid damaging your electronic throttle body, spray a little bit of throttle body cleaner onto a clean rag and wipe the throat clean. Repeat as necessary. Do NOT spray throttle body cleaner on the throttle body. Doing so, you risk dsmaging servo and gears.
Trying to reset P0102 code on my 2013 RAV4 2.5 liter 4 banger. I read that I should remove the MAF sensor and let vehicle idle for 10 seconds (up to a minute or two). The computer reads no MAF sensor. Then reinstall and the code goes away. Is this correct? Do I have to remove the sensor or can I just disconnect it. If I remove the sensor should I cover the opening with something? (duct tape?) Before anyone asks I will state I already cleaned the sensor and tested in by using the live data function and comparing MAF readings at 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm. It read approximately 75 and 150 respectively. My understanding is that this indicates MAF is now operating correctly. Any input is welcome.
My 06 Tacoma 2.7L idles high on cold starts like 2500 rpms but comes down to normal once it warms up for about 20-30 seconds. I have cleaned the throttle body before but it still does it. What else would cause high idle on start up? I'm pretty certain the alternator needs replacing would that do it?
My 04 2.7 about 5 years ago did that. It would go crazy high like yours then would want to stall out if I didn't gas it, then it was fine. I think it was on the 1st cold start of the day or after sitting awhile. I believe it was the idle air control valve or some 02 sensor... not the one in the exhaust...Was like a $300 fix at mechanic. Before I started working on it myself.
@@ianscreamsvideo didnt even realize it had an idle air control valve. That may be it but im just gonna live with it unless it gets worse. Once it warms up it runs great.
@@turdsandwicher yeah I just looked it up and it's like $240 part. I'm pretty sure that's what it was on mine. Maybe there's a way to clean it though w carb cleaner or MAF cleaner. Dot. Know if it's electronics gone bad or just gummed up. Im dealing w my EGR P401 insufficient flow right now. And about to do my own rotors and pads. Try to do this stuff myself now if I can to save money.
@@BakedRBeans you are correct Mac N. Cheese it is for cold weather running that can make wet air condensate and then frost and if accumulated freeze the plate open.
I was told by my mechanic to never open the throttle body by hand on these new cars which use a motor to open and close it (he stated they open it electronically). Any validity to these claims?
He doesn't detail it here, but In this other throttle body video he made, he explains why and how to open it slowly - ruclips.net/video/ceYr4rNjxN4/видео.html
Maybe the owner should replace the Diet Coke with some Sauerkraut! BTW, what ever happened with that 1GR-FE project engine? Thank you, Petr, for teaching us so well and making it equally entertaining.
Build up in the gap between the butterfly valve and throttle body housing inhibits airflow resulting in hard starts and rough Idle. The ECM can only compensate so much.
I cleaned my throttle body in my 2002 Tacoma and it helped it with the idle. My Tacoma has 300k miles on the clock. I hope this is the last truck I ever buy.
Nice. My 4Runner has 330,000 and runs better than my wife’s Buick with 100,000. Toyota makes great engines,
Nice guys👍🏻
That dry noodle chow mein tray is so useful to have! I love it. Plus they are very delicious too.
Thanks for the video. It was very interesting and informative. I knew about cleaning the throttle body but your comments and suggestions were fantastic!
I keep a toothbrush in my tool box for cleaning parts like that. You can heat the bristle end and bend it 90 degrees for cleaning inside stuff like that throttle body.
You can use small paint brushes too. Cutting off half of the bristles to shorten them will make the brush stiffer for scrubbing harder to loosen dirt faster.
You DIY folks might want to keep the shaft horizontal when spraying into the unit, so that a lot of the liquid can't get inside the unit by running down the shaft & into the hole. I doubt enough could get inside the unit to mess something inside there up, but you never know. You would probably need to use a LOT of spray for that to happen! And it's not a part from a space capsule, or the Webb Space Telescope, where a piece of dust or fingerprint is a big deal.
Mine needs cleaning, but I'm reluctant to start fooling around with 23 year old rubber parts, when it runs fine other than at idle, when it runs a bit fast. I never sit in traffic, so it is no big deal. I think I will stick with the, 'if it ain't broke don't fix it', philosophy for now. If it starts acting up, I'll tackle it. I've got one pollution system code, but down South, that isn't a problem. Last inspection, the fellow never bothered to start the SUV, or get inside it. Maybe my mirror finished stainless steel grille and chromed differential cover impressed him that everything was perfect. If I can't smell gasoline in my enclosed, windowless garage, I doubt I will destroy the planet with escaping gasoline fumes.
Good tip. I'm going to start doing this 👍🏻
As long as you don't knock any dirt into the engine that sounds like a good tip!
Thanks. I need to tackle this on my GX with the same engine.
You are very thorough I'm confident I can do it. Thanks
Thanks so much, Peter…going to do this to the wife’s 2016 Lincoln MKX 3.7 V6 with 102,000 miles…It actually runs like new. I do 5,000 mile oil changes since new with new filter. And Coolant changes every 50,000 miles..Trans drain and fill with new filter every 50,000 miles
Forgot to tell you I use Mobil 1 -5W20 since new
Good to see old timer mechanics explain precise repairing job
Peter, first of all, thank you very much for your videos, you are great! And I've learned so much of them, also to share you my experience: I cleaned my Throttle body and MAF on my 2002 Toyota Camry and the Check Engine Light came on, It was running perfectly, no rough idle, no jerking or something indicating I had a vacuum leak, anyway I kind of freaked out and got it to AutoZone to get it scanned and it threw a P0110 code, I'm not sure if the guys at autozone cleared the code or it went away on itself but after scanning the Check Engine light went off, It has not came back about 100 miles later and car keeps running good.
2nd comment- never use paper towels! I did a timing belt on a 4.7 and it immediately went into limp home mode…I was panicking…turned out it was a tiny sliver of paper that had wedged in the side bushing of the TB plate. Pulled with tweezers and it has run great for a year now.
Excellent video. You covered ALL sides of the cleaning job, superior to 'The Car Care Nut' video on the same topic!
Thank you I need to do my Tundra 👍🏻
Hi Peter! This is my first time commenting, but I've watched many of your videos since I happened upon your channel. I really enjoy your content, and I appreciate it! I'm at the age where I like to soak up knowledge, and your channel helps. I own a 2005 Toyota Tundra Sr5 Double Cab 2WD with the 4.7 V8, and I feel fortunate to do so. I bought it from a guy that was meticulous about his preventive maintenance, so even though it has 171,000 miles on it, it runs perfect. I know you have a Tundra now that you're restoring, so that's fun to watch. My question is this: Where are you from? I can understand you just fine, but I always crack up when you say "engine". I can't quite make out that accent :) Carry on, and thanks again for the great content!
My 06 Mustang would stall going downhill/around curbs/on the freeway and try to lurch into traffic at stop signs/lights- very scary! It was nothing more than a dirty TB.
Keep them clean folks! Dramatically helped idle on my 88 IROC as well- the Idle Air Control passages were gunked up and even keeping it from seating 100%
Very nice peter your the best
Great video. You should post the valve cover gasket change.
.
Great information. Thanks for posting !!
again THANK YOU - Exactly what I needed!
Excellence !!
Thanks Peter.
Good job my friend i do this for my 2010 tundra,one cuestión I have to replace the gasket to,tanks have i nice day.
Great video
Great videos!
That was a great learning lesson.
My concern is not to damage any electrical component.
Without removing bolts and the entire Throttle body, can I just spray inside and try to dry it with napkins.
Would that do the job to a certain point!
Thank you.
Good job
Nice and clear. Thankyou
Nice job, I have a 06 tundra 4.7 and I cleaned it from outside a few times, It has always when doing a cold start ran a 2000-2200 rpm’s is it possible in needs removing and cleaned, I’ll have to check it, seems like it always has idled at 2000-2200 rpm’s the 7 years I owned it, seems very high idle from any other cars I’ve owned, and seems to take 5-8 minutes to idle down to normal 8-900 rpms when warm, even does it in hot weather if truck been setting for long time, kind of annoying to have to put in gear at that high of idle. Thanks bud great video.
This is his throttle body video for that same engine - ruclips.net/video/ceYr4rNjxN4/видео.html
While your in there clean the maf. sensor
Im battling a misfire in my 2007 tundra with the 5.7 engine. Have just put new spark plugs and it didnt fix the misfire, so i will be cleaning the maf and throttle body, i also im awaiting a bolt for a section of my upper intake manifold on drivers side, perhaps that is an issue with the misfire, had code p0300, p0301, p0303, p0307 and now mostly p0307, no codes for the passenger side. I dont believe i have a coolant issue in the cylinders, no loss of coolant, the old plugs were quite carboned up, not whitewashed at all from coolant, not wet with oil. Worn out mostly, but still had spark in my spark plug tester. Im going to clean these two items and replace that intake bolt and if thwt doesnt fix it, im going to replace all of the fuel injectors
Can you use a toothbrush to get into those tight areas to clean it good? I have a 2007 tundra sr5 5.7 and I haven't done this since I have owned it. Also need to probably clean the maf and replace Spark plugs. Love your videos, very informative.
I was in the same position with an 07. I scrubbed the throttle body and sprayed the MAF for the first time last year.The car's throttle response is incredibly improved. Like a serious difference. This guy's channel has another video where he shows you specifically how to take everything apart to clean it, including the MAF. The car was confused when I first started it up and it does take a day or two for the computer to relearn how much air to take in.
Same for the 5.7? I have a 2019 Tundra
@@bradandrews735 I would imagine so
Great video as usual, do you think a oil separator for crankcase ventilator would lead to less build up overall in the intake tract system?
Maybe, but these newer vehicles are so complex, with sensors measuring everything connected to the computer which makes thousands of adjustments a minute, that I wouldn't change anything. You never know what might change, and send the computer incorrect data. You might exchange a small problem for a bigger one.
@@billsimpson604 good point there but I have put oil catch cans on many new modern vehicles, some of them have done over 100,000 miles as well as my own 1GRFE and diesel Toyotas and so far no issues but a cleaner intake tract and less oil on filter.
@@RoyFJ65 how much cost on average
@@LAactor There are too many brands but Cusco and Mishimoto have the reputation and they usually go for $60-100
Hi
Really helpful videos! I purchased a 2000 tundra recently.
I do have a question..
When I driving my tundra, at first the oil presure goes up with the rpms.. its goes really high! Not the maxed out top line on the gauge but the one just below that..
Surprisingly, I haven't seen to much information on the symptom. There are people saying that they're tundra fluctuates but only just above the half way point.
Thoughts or suggestions, anybody?
Thanks again for great content. Subscribed and notified :)
Cheers
My son’s 2000 Tundra does the same thing. As long as it’s not overfilled and doesn’t go over the maxed out line, you should be good.
I hope you show it on a 2.7 4cly.
Just imagine how the inside of the intake tube from the throttle body back is to the intake manifold
Did you clean the MAF sensor? You did, right??
⛽ light it's on , if it was a fuel pump issue I'm sure gas tank would be full 😂
Avoid damaging your electronic throttle body, spray a little bit of throttle body cleaner onto a clean rag and wipe the throat clean. Repeat as necessary. Do NOT spray throttle body cleaner on the throttle body. Doing so, you risk dsmaging servo and gears.
did not spray clean the wires of MAF?
Along with the throttle body, should you also clean the Mass Airflow Sensor?
Yes
ONLY with MAF cleaner
Trying to reset P0102 code on my 2013 RAV4 2.5 liter 4 banger. I read that I should remove the MAF sensor and let vehicle idle for 10 seconds (up to a minute or two). The computer reads no MAF sensor. Then reinstall and the code goes away. Is this correct? Do I have to remove the sensor or can I just disconnect it. If I remove the sensor should I cover the opening with something? (duct tape?) Before anyone asks I will state I already cleaned the sensor and tested in by using the live data function and comparing MAF readings at 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm. It read approximately 75 and 150 respectively. My understanding is that this indicates MAF is now operating correctly. Any input is welcome.
I need to clean mine …. But I have a 5.7 …. Will the process be exactly the same? Thank you, Sir!
Yea basically the same
My 06 Tacoma 2.7L idles high on cold starts like 2500 rpms but comes down to normal once it warms up for about 20-30 seconds. I have cleaned the throttle body before but it still does it. What else would cause high idle on start up? I'm pretty certain the alternator needs replacing would that do it?
My 04 2.7 about 5 years ago did that. It would go crazy high like yours then would want to stall out if I didn't gas it, then it was fine. I think it was on the 1st cold start of the day or after sitting awhile. I believe it was the idle air control valve or some 02 sensor... not the one in the exhaust...Was like a $300 fix at mechanic. Before I started working on it myself.
@@ianscreamsvideo didnt even realize it had an idle air control valve. That may be it but im just gonna live with it unless it gets worse. Once it warms up it runs great.
@@turdsandwicher yeah I just looked it up and it's like $240 part. I'm pretty sure that's what it was on mine. Maybe there's a way to clean it though w carb cleaner or MAF cleaner. Dot. Know if it's electronics gone bad or just gummed up. Im dealing w my EGR P401 insufficient flow right now. And about to do my own rotors and pads. Try to do this stuff myself now if I can to save money.
Why does the throttle body have coolant lines hooked to it? Never knew it needed cooling.
I think it's the opposite- to heat it up on a cold start. Peter could have said.
@@BakedRBeans you are correct Mac N. Cheese it is for cold weather running that can make wet air condensate and then frost and if accumulated freeze the plate open.
@@LAactor thanks for the explanation ✌🏻
I was told by my mechanic to never open the throttle body by hand on these new cars which use a motor to open and close it (he stated they open it electronically). Any validity to these claims?
He doesn't detail it here, but In this other throttle body video he made, he explains why and how to open it slowly - ruclips.net/video/ceYr4rNjxN4/видео.html
😊😊
Maybe the owner should replace the Diet Coke with some Sauerkraut! BTW, what ever happened with that 1GR-FE project engine?
Thank you, Petr, for teaching us so well and making it equally entertaining.
Lolol😂
Not a mechanic, but how does this possible help anything? Its a flap.
Build up in the gap between the butterfly valve and throttle body housing inhibits airflow resulting in hard starts and rough Idle. The ECM can only compensate so much.
Not as easy on a Toyota Sienna