Is that a seam line on the domed part of the piece at 1:26? Or is it a trick of the light? If it’s a seam, what’s causing it, given that you clearly worked hard to remove the seams in the last episode? Thanks!
Yes, that was a seam line - I didn't bother about the seams on those parts of the frame because they were hard to see once assembled and would he heavily weathered anyway. Sometimes you have to go after everything, but sometimes there are battles that you just don't need to pick ^_^
Hi. Great video. the primer help to protect the plastic. but the primer like tamiya use lacquer. it does not damage the plastic?. The tamiya lacquer thinner is recomended to thinning the tamiya liquid surface primer (for the airbrush), it is safe to use In the abs plastic?
+Roberto Austria Hi Roberto, thanks :) Tamiya spray-can primer is absolutely fine on these kits - it technically is a lacquer primer, I think, but not particularly strong so it won't eat any plastic, and can be used on ABS with no problems. The Tamiya liquid primer than comes in a jar (not a spray-can) is slightly different and like any airbrush primer you have thin it to get it just right for it to work perfectly, which is why I don't use non-spray can primers. And you are correct, you can thin the liquid primer with standard lacquer thinners, but if you do that I can't guarantee that it won't harm the ABS as your mix may be much stronger than the primer that comes from the spray can. On a model that is all PS (polystyrene) it would be fine, but on a kit with ABS I personally wouldn't take the risk with liquid primer.
Any lacquer product can damage ABS if it is applied in a strong enough concentration. It's unlikely but not impossible. With Gunpla, I just prefer to play as safe as possible and not take the risk. Never had a problem with the Tamiya spary cans though, so they must be a fairly "cool" mix (thinners that are corrosive or that eat plastic away are often called "hot",
Great tutorial! i was just able to get my primers to work in the airbrush today. I use Vallejo primers. White, gray and black. Respectively. I had to switch from a .2 needle to a .3. Prior to that I had to brush paint the primer on. Not fun. lol Works great now. :-)
+bpezzano1 Yay! Yeah, a bigger nozzle is better for primers. In fact, it's actually worth investing in a cheap airbrush with a big nozzle JUST for primers. It means less cleaning of your regular more expensive brushes when primer gunks them up, and if it gets TOO gunked up, just throw it away and get another cheap one. Primer doesn't have to look pretty :) The .2 should be fine for thinned paint. You may also fine the .3 better for metallic paints like gunmetal and the like - they are usually full of flakes that give the metallic sheen and can easily gunk up a smaller nozzle ( I can't remember what size nozzle my DeVilbiss airbrush has, but there is no way it would have sprayed the gunmetal like my little cheap Neo did in this video).
Hey man I love your videos. I'm just getting into the gunpla craft and I was just wondering what the paint and primers you used were. I'm going to be cleaning up the seams on the gundams and want to paint some areas
I do go through all the products I used as I go along, make sure to watch the whole series to get everything. I always use playlists; you can find all the episodes here: ruclips.net/video/mRRF8CuTf88/видео.html&list=PLT8l3DNUdcBAkWFzJhFBigReDxL966I_o&index=3
Great video, but that isn't a surprise ;-) Great to see you trying out a gloss black underneath a metallic paint. May I suggest trying an enamel gloss black? I know you dislike enamels, but they give me the best result in terms of high sheen. Yes, the Charlie one, when he gets the munchies :-D Me, I use the Alclad II primers, straight out of the bottle, they spray on great! Was thinking on getting me a jar of the Tamiya primer, but it also contains micro filler, so there will be no difference in results, except for the fact that I have to dilute it myself. Will have to wait for Mr.Hobby to make their Mr.Surfacer 1500 in white.... Maybe I'll get my hands on a can of Tamiya White Primer and decant it, then use it trough the airbrush. Works great with automotive spray cans. Maybe an option for you.... If you are willing to spray that stuff in your hobby/bedroom... Thanks yet again for another great tutorial!
+Tim Lemmens Nah, spraying stinky things in this room is not an option, hence why I stick to acrylics, I'm afraid :( I really would consider giving the white primer a go straight from the rattle can, see what you think. Literally take s minutes and has never given me any problems at all ^_^
I spat coffee out my nose when you named checked that silly dropping spillages bloke lol. Awesome tutorial as always my captain, some really handy tips in here as always. Got my Neo earlier this week, but haven't had chance to drop it on the floor yet ^_^. Also, that gloss black in a way acts like the backing to a mirror, and then witch craft happens and makes the metallic overcoat seem shinier. Listen carefully, you'll hear the cauldrons bubbling... And those are big hinges, almost as big as that Tony fella that drops stuff all the time in my videos. HIS vide - they've already noticed haven't they? SPACE HORSE!
+helgan35 Yes, I think they may have twigged already :) It does seem to make it more shiny, but I'm not sold on the fact it makes the gunmetal darker. I really liked the way it came out on the Freedom. But then again, I guess am am painting green, expecting it to be red ^_^ I shall try chrome silver on black at some point, see how that comes out :)
+Max Brandt It's actually pictured in the booklet for this kit as well :) It is the RX-78-2 Gundam Real Type. The story is it was used in EFSF computer simulations and was only that colour so it could be told apart from the regular RX-78-2.
Tamiya gunmetal yes and I use Vallejo glaze medium. Over primer it appears silvery also the glaze lightens the tone of it. A single drop over black primer will appear much darker. On my google + there's a picture of the SD Sazabi shield I used that technique on.
Sure, just make sure to keep the rattle can around 30cm from the part you are painting, keep the can moving at al times, and make sure it is not pointed at the piece when you press the trigger (there's often a splurt of paint when the trigger is first pressed). Build the colour up in light misty coats. Also make sure to allow several days for enamels to fully cure and dry. Also make sure to primer the part first as enamels can be quite harmful to the bare plastic. Make sure to work outdoors if you can, and wear a respirator as the vapours are quite harmful. Lastly, try a test piece out first on a spare bit of plastic to get your technique perfected before going for it with the actual model ^_^
If you are airbrushing, I wouldn't bother decanting a rattle can, it would be much cheaper to just get normal paints, enamel or otherwise, to airbrush. And to be honest decanting from a rattle can is a major pain in the ass.
I hear people are running PSI around 15 to 20 . I don't get a fine mist until I get over 60. I have cleaned it several times. It is a 2 stage air brush but quite old . 10 years old.
+Bruce f Agreed with @Helgan35, sounds like either your brush is gunked up the wazoo, or possibly your pressure gauge is faulty (it's a possibility). It could also be the paint is just too thick - depending on the paint you use (metallics are usually way thicker than regular colours|). If it is a standard acrylic, usually a 50/50 mix is a good indicator - if it can't spray that then yep. something is amiss. 15-20 is around the norm. One other thing, if you have ever sprayed Future/Klear/Pledge through it, that stuff is a right bugger for clogging up the brush if you don't strip it down and clean it. Lastly, it is also possible it is the valves on the air hose or in the brush itself that are faulty or blocked. Try swapping out your air hose initially to see if that makes a difference. If you haven't already, field-strip the brush and look over everything, look for caked on paint or other stuff. If you can't get it off with usual thinners, it may be worth using stronger stuff like standard thinners, cellulose thinners or even Xylene. However, unless your brush is solvent resistant it's best to keep those kinds of thinners on parts that don't have rubber seals like the needle and nozzle, crown cap and nozzle cover. If you can get hold of some, I haven't yet met a paint that Caron's Paint Killer can't eat away. Or even get one of those ultrasonic cleaning thingies that @Helgan35 showed in his earlier video - I must get one of those myself :)
it's a good job you kept you clothes on in this video for a change... we could see ALL of you in the paint cup reflection!!!! lol... those metallics sure look lots better airbrushed
+Lynn Dippel Ah, you'll get there :) You can get little cheapy ones from Halfords (if you are in the UK) but they are pretty crappy and not double-action, and cost about the same as a basic Neo for Iwata, so it's worth waiting on for. If you are struggling to get a brush AND compressor, you can always plump for air cans as a short-term fix until you get a compressor. But only short term, in the long run it would cost you more, and the pressure is not constant as the can empties. But it is a great way to get started and get practicing until you can afford the compressor too. Lastly, again if you are in the UK, give the team at www.emodels.co.uk a call and ask their advice about a good cost-effective starter set for beginners. They will advise you on your options and look after you (they are all top blokes, they won't just convince you to get the most expensive thing like some stores do. Tell them I sent you :)
Thanks Foxx. I live in USA and been looking at the Badger 105 Patriot. I have been looking at emodels.co.uk web site for advice and every where else. :D
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Is that a seam line on the domed part of the piece at 1:26? Or is it a trick of the light? If it’s a seam, what’s causing it, given that you clearly worked hard to remove the seams in the last episode? Thanks!
Yes, that was a seam line - I didn't bother about the seams on those parts of the frame because they were hard to see once assembled and would he heavily weathered anyway. Sometimes you have to go after everything, but sometimes there are battles that you just don't need to pick ^_^
a very informative and fun video, thanks man, im new to airbrush and still learning now ;)
Glad it helped, make sure to watch some of my more modern stuff too, lots more info in those!
Hi. Great video. the primer help to protect the plastic. but the primer like tamiya use lacquer. it does not damage the plastic?. The tamiya lacquer thinner is recomended to thinning the tamiya liquid surface primer (for the airbrush), it is safe to use In the abs plastic?
+Roberto Austria Hi Roberto, thanks :)
Tamiya spray-can primer is absolutely fine on these kits - it technically is a lacquer primer, I think, but not particularly strong so it won't eat any plastic, and can be used on ABS with no problems. The Tamiya liquid primer than comes in a jar (not a spray-can) is slightly different and like any airbrush primer you have thin it to get it just right for it to work perfectly, which is why I don't use non-spray can primers. And you are correct, you can thin the liquid primer with standard lacquer thinners, but if you do that I can't guarantee that it won't harm the ABS as your mix may be much stronger than the primer that comes from the spray can. On a model that is all PS (polystyrene) it would be fine, but on a kit with ABS I personally wouldn't take the risk with liquid primer.
+Modelmaking Guru. the tamiya lacquer thinner can damage the abs plastic?
Any lacquer product can damage ABS if it is applied in a strong enough concentration. It's unlikely but not impossible. With Gunpla, I just prefer to play as safe as possible and not take the risk. Never had a problem with the Tamiya spary cans though, so they must be a fairly "cool" mix (thinners that are corrosive or that eat plastic away are often called "hot",
Great tutorial! i was just able to get my primers to work in the airbrush today. I use Vallejo primers. White, gray and black. Respectively. I had to switch from a .2 needle to a .3. Prior to that I had to brush paint the primer on. Not fun. lol
Works great now. :-)
+bpezzano1 Yay! Yeah, a bigger nozzle is better for primers. In fact, it's actually worth investing in a cheap airbrush with a big nozzle JUST for primers. It means less cleaning of your regular more expensive brushes when primer gunks them up, and if it gets TOO gunked up, just throw it away and get another cheap one. Primer doesn't have to look pretty :)
The .2 should be fine for thinned paint. You may also fine the .3 better for metallic paints like gunmetal and the like - they are usually full of flakes that give the metallic sheen and can easily gunk up a smaller nozzle ( I can't remember what size nozzle my DeVilbiss airbrush has, but there is no way it would have sprayed the gunmetal like my little cheap Neo did in this video).
Hey man I love your videos. I'm just getting into the gunpla craft and I was just wondering what the paint and primers you used were. I'm going to be cleaning up the seams on the gundams and want to paint some areas
I do go through all the products I used as I go along, make sure to watch the whole series to get everything. I always use playlists; you can find all the episodes here: ruclips.net/video/mRRF8CuTf88/видео.html&list=PLT8l3DNUdcBAkWFzJhFBigReDxL966I_o&index=3
Great video, but that isn't a surprise ;-)
Great to see you trying out a gloss black underneath a metallic paint. May I suggest trying an enamel gloss black? I know you dislike enamels, but they give me the best result in terms of high sheen. Yes, the Charlie one, when he gets the munchies :-D
Me, I use the Alclad II primers, straight out of the bottle, they spray on great!
Was thinking on getting me a jar of the Tamiya primer, but it also contains micro filler, so there will be no difference in results, except for the fact that I have to dilute it myself. Will have to wait for Mr.Hobby to make their Mr.Surfacer 1500 in white....
Maybe I'll get my hands on a can of Tamiya White Primer and decant it, then use it trough the airbrush. Works great with automotive spray cans. Maybe an option for you.... If you are willing to spray that stuff in your hobby/bedroom...
Thanks yet again for another great tutorial!
+Tim Lemmens P.s., Crooks and Nannies..... Hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!
+Tim Lemmens Nah, spraying stinky things in this room is not an option, hence why I stick to acrylics, I'm afraid :(
I really would consider giving the white primer a go straight from the rattle can, see what you think. Literally take s minutes and has never given me any problems at all ^_^
Great video. Thanks Foxx.
+Stomping Freak Thanks, absolutely my pleasure :)
You can try adding gloss black only to the details then using the metallic
keep up the great work! And thanks for the mini tutorials :)
+superjedidude24 Thanks! Will do!
I spat coffee out my nose when you named checked that silly dropping spillages bloke lol.
Awesome tutorial as always my captain, some really handy tips in here as always.
Got my Neo earlier this week, but haven't had chance to drop it on the floor yet ^_^.
Also, that gloss black in a way acts like the backing to a mirror, and then witch craft happens and makes the metallic overcoat seem shinier. Listen carefully, you'll hear the cauldrons bubbling...
And those are big hinges, almost as big as that Tony fella that drops stuff all the time in my videos. HIS vide - they've already noticed haven't they?
SPACE HORSE!
+helgan35 Yes, I think they may have twigged already :)
It does seem to make it more shiny, but I'm not sold on the fact it makes the gunmetal darker. I really liked the way it came out on the Freedom. But then again, I guess am am painting green, expecting it to be red ^_^ I shall try chrome silver on black at some point, see how that comes out :)
I am having issues with my airbrush. How much air pressure are you using ?
+Bruce f Honestly? Absolutely no idea! My compressor has two settings - on and off. That's it ^_^
What issues are you having?
Sometimes I see this black and white color variant of the RX-78-2 with a few gold accents, what is with that?
+Max Brandt It's actually pictured in the booklet for this kit as well :) It is the RX-78-2 Gundam Real Type. The story is it was used in EFSF computer simulations and was only that colour so it could be told apart from the regular RX-78-2.
Modelmaking Guru Ah, okay, now I understand. Thanks!
Modelmaking Guru I was thinking it was a custom color variant for a character I somehow missed hearing about.
personally i put 2 drops of glaze medium in my gunmetal it lightens it up and it sprays like butter.
+kyle anderson Interesting, I may have to try that. Is that with Tamiya gunmetal? Which glaze medium do you use?
Tamiya gunmetal yes and I use Vallejo glaze medium. Over primer it appears silvery also the glaze lightens the tone of it. A single drop over black primer will appear much darker. On my google + there's a picture of the SD Sazabi shield I used that technique on.
Cool, I'd like to see that but I can't see it on your page, can you post a link for everyone to see (save them scrolling through the page to find it)?
Modelmaking Guru lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X8kAP8Q585U/VkkBOGmRHJI/AAAAAAAAH9k/iZ4XpbVLnNg/w426-h240/15%2B-%2B1
ignore the parts on left which i have redone.
Can I use the paint from enamel based rattle cans?
Sure, just make sure to keep the rattle can around 30cm from the part you are painting, keep the can moving at al times, and make sure it is not pointed at the piece when you press the trigger (there's often a splurt of paint when the trigger is first pressed). Build the colour up in light misty coats. Also make sure to allow several days for enamels to fully cure and dry. Also make sure to primer the part first as enamels can be quite harmful to the bare plastic. Make sure to work outdoors if you can, and wear a respirator as the vapours are quite harmful. Lastly, try a test piece out first on a spare bit of plastic to get your technique perfected before going for it with the actual model ^_^
+Modelmaking Guru can I use the paint from the rattle cans to use it on my airbrush?
If you are airbrushing, I wouldn't bother decanting a rattle can, it would be much cheaper to just get normal paints, enamel or otherwise, to airbrush. And to be honest decanting from a rattle can is a major pain in the ass.
Soo .. should I use primer or not ?
+plasticAA LOL
The answer is ALWAYS "yes"
I hear people are running PSI around 15 to 20 . I don't get a fine mist until I get over 60. I have cleaned it several times. It is a 2 stage air brush but quite old . 10 years old.
+Bruce f That sounds like it might be gunked up Bruce. How long has it been struggling to spray for?
+Bruce f Agreed with @Helgan35, sounds like either your brush is gunked up the wazoo, or possibly your pressure gauge is faulty (it's a possibility). It could also be the paint is just too thick - depending on the paint you use (metallics are usually way thicker than regular colours|). If it is a standard acrylic, usually a 50/50 mix is a good indicator - if it can't spray that then yep. something is amiss. 15-20 is around the norm.
One other thing, if you have ever sprayed Future/Klear/Pledge through it, that stuff is a right bugger for clogging up the brush if you don't strip it down and clean it.
Lastly, it is also possible it is the valves on the air hose or in the brush itself that are faulty or blocked. Try swapping out your air hose initially to see if that makes a difference.
If you haven't already, field-strip the brush and look over everything, look for caked on paint or other stuff. If you can't get it off with usual thinners, it may be worth using stronger stuff like standard thinners, cellulose thinners or even Xylene. However, unless your brush is solvent resistant it's best to keep those kinds of thinners on parts that don't have rubber seals like the needle and nozzle, crown cap and nozzle cover. If you can get hold of some, I haven't yet met a paint that Caron's Paint Killer can't eat away. Or even get one of those ultrasonic cleaning thingies that @Helgan35 showed in his earlier video - I must get one of those myself :)
it's a good job you kept you clothes on in this video for a change... we could see ALL of you in the paint cup reflection!!!! lol... those metallics sure look lots better airbrushed
+skipperted LOL ew ^_^
I really don't know how I get them so silvery, gunmetal is usually much darker. MAD SKILLZ!
Great video. Now I really want to get an airbrush, but I'm not rich enough to get a cheap one yet :( Even a Neo!
+Lynn Dippel Ah, you'll get there :) You can get little cheapy ones from Halfords (if you are in the UK) but they are pretty crappy and not double-action, and cost about the same as a basic Neo for Iwata, so it's worth waiting on for. If you are struggling to get a brush AND compressor, you can always plump for air cans as a short-term fix until you get a compressor. But only short term, in the long run it would cost you more, and the pressure is not constant as the can empties. But it is a great way to get started and get practicing until you can afford the compressor too.
Lastly, again if you are in the UK, give the team at www.emodels.co.uk a call and ask their advice about a good cost-effective starter set for beginners. They will advise you on your options and look after you (they are all top blokes, they won't just convince you to get the most expensive thing like some stores do. Tell them I sent you :)
Thanks Foxx. I live in USA and been looking at the Badger 105 Patriot. I have been looking at emodels.co.uk web site for advice and every where else. :D
Pleasure!
The Badger 105 La Le Lu Le Lo? Not a bad choice :)
helgan35 will comment in 5...4...
+Modelmaking Guru Snake? Snake? SNAKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
+Tim Lemmens And you will too, of course.
Time to change to disc 2!