By far the best interview in surfings history ever documented. This is what so many people who have never challenged the oceans power should watch so they too can take his experience into their own lives to appreciate the gift of life.
This is such a gripping account. I love the level of detail in his recollection. It turns out most people don't experience incidents in the same way. I can relate because I've had similar (not surfing...skiing and bikes) high-stakes, "slo-mo", fine detail split second decisions/analysis. When I describe these incidents to people, they don't seem to understand how all that can be processed in these moments. For most people, they were doing something...then they were injured...the details are completely absent as if never experienced. This was such an enthralling insight into this experience. Thank you for sharing.
Same. It happens in such slow motion when I fall from my mountain bike/snowboard/skateboard. A level of calm comes over me despite the worst damage currently happening. And then usually a whole lot of anger that i allowed it to happen, especially when it all seemed so slow and predictable ! 🤣
wow, incredible -- amazing bravery and storytelling. i appreciate the description of how staying mindful and calm was so important to surviving the situation, we don't really hear that side of it so often. thanks for sharing
WOW....what a Great storyteller he had me locked in from the start.....these men and women that ride these gigantic waves are a different breed for sure.....I used to surf but never anything over 18-20 ft faces....nothin but Respect!
Wow Tim, Great job relating the adrenaline rush of a confrontational survival life event. Wheeooou.Kinda reminds me of Lopez describing Pipeline wipeouts like they have cumulative exposure damage. I think he said “ I guess you die a little bit each time…” or something to that effect
That was so intense! What a story to tell! I sat here watching it saying oh shit oh my god! Holy shit! Wow! Lol such an amazing tale he told here! So descriptive! So glad he lived to tell! Such an awesome guy!
Shit i missed the high tides here bc of your story ! I hope you got more stories i can find, you are an amazing story teller. I was literally glued to my screen. I am new at surfing and never realized there was so much fear involved. So listening to stories like yours will certainly help me when in panic mode out there. I was a skater so i am familiar to fear but we never experience fear of dying except maybe when trying a McTwist in the vert. That was about it. This here is on a whole different level. Mad respect for your bravery and how you deal with such situation !!! My biggest wave i caught after just 2months of surfing was 2m. Scared the hell out of me, but i caught it and already have a box checked.
Just watched the new 100 foot wave tonight . . . and it ended with this wipeout and, I didn't know if he was still alive. . . pretty messed up. . . I'm so Glad CJ's alright . . . I don't even know this dude and I was having a panic attack at the end of the episode . . . holy ballz !!!!!!!
I did a Type 3 break of the radial head in remote country...spent 20hrs of teeth grinding agonising pain with bone protruding before I made it to a hospital and sweet morphine BUT I would never swap that for your experience bro. Thanks for sharing...respect 🙏
Wow man, really heavy shit being "pounded when bodyparts are broken. Have my own memory from surfing in South Africa when surfing a wave and I heard a gunshot sound and I just collapsed and was then trying to hang on to my longboard and every wave that hit me send excruciating pain from my leg where the cross ligament had been torn. Luckily the life guards had their eyes on me and came swimming out to help me.
Men, saw it last night on HBO... that wave was a monster... did it pass the 100 feet? ...Glad you were able to survive to tell the tale... had to come here to see what happened next, since HBO let us in suspense...
I don’t care how long it took you to tell your story I’m just glad your ok brother what brought tears to my eyes is when you said all your friends were there and your gf ran down and came by your side I have no gf and no friends not one I’m in this world all alone
Спорт
such an amazing storyteller. well done!
I was terrified when I first saw the wipeout at the time, but his explanation makes it just a nightmare.
Don't remember being so engrossed in a 20m RUclips video in my life. Great stuff.
This was amazing. Thank you for sharing and well done for keeping it together during a life and death situation!
By far the best interview in surfings history ever documented. This is what so many people who have never challenged the oceans power should watch so they too can take his experience into their own lives to appreciate the gift of life.
This is such a gripping account. I love the level of detail in his recollection. It turns out most people don't experience incidents in the same way. I can relate because I've had similar (not surfing...skiing and bikes) high-stakes, "slo-mo", fine detail split second decisions/analysis. When I describe these incidents to people, they don't seem to understand how all that can be processed in these moments. For most people, they were doing something...then they were injured...the details are completely absent as if never experienced. This was such an enthralling insight into this experience. Thank you for sharing.
Same. It happens in such slow motion when I fall from my mountain bike/snowboard/skateboard. A level of calm comes over me despite the worst damage currently happening.
And then usually a whole lot of anger that i allowed it to happen, especially when it all seemed so slow and predictable ! 🤣
wow, incredible -- amazing bravery and storytelling. i appreciate the description of how staying mindful and calm was so important to surviving the situation, we don't really hear that side of it so often. thanks for sharing
The amount of humans who could survive this is very small. What a great story! He is inspiring
WOW!!! What an amazing story. You tell it with such excitement and terror at the same time. Praying for continued healing.
Beautifully shared.
Thank you CJ and Tim🙏💙
WOW....what a Great storyteller he had me locked in from the start.....these men and women that ride these gigantic waves are a different breed for sure.....I used to surf but never anything over 18-20 ft faces....nothin but Respect!
Wow Tim,
Great job relating the adrenaline rush of a confrontational survival life event. Wheeooou.Kinda reminds me of Lopez describing Pipeline wipeouts like they have cumulative exposure damage. I think he said “ I guess you die a little bit each time…” or something to that effect
how does this vid not have millions of views. smh amazing story ur a legend
That was so intense! What a story to tell! I sat here watching it saying oh shit oh my god! Holy shit! Wow! Lol such an amazing tale he told here! So descriptive! So glad he lived to tell! Such an awesome guy!
Thank You for sharing. 🙏🏼So beautifully told! 🌺The 20 minutes went by in a blink
Great interview Tim! Looking forward to seeing more of these.
Shit i missed the high tides here bc of your story ! I hope you got more stories i can find, you are an amazing story teller. I was literally glued to my screen. I am new at surfing and never realized there was so much fear involved. So listening to stories like yours will certainly help me when in panic mode out there.
I was a skater so i am familiar to fear but we never experience fear of dying except maybe when trying a McTwist in the vert. That was about it. This here is on a whole different level. Mad respect for your bravery and how you deal with such situation !!! My biggest wave i caught after just 2months of surfing was 2m. Scared the hell out of me, but i caught it and already have a box checked.
Just watched the new 100 foot wave tonight . . . and it ended with this wipeout and, I didn't know if he was still alive. . . pretty messed up. . . I'm so Glad CJ's alright . . . I don't even know this dude and I was having a panic attack at the end of the episode . . . holy ballz !!!!!!!
Same here , had to find out what happened to him too.
@@webm0ngrel I felt like the show had been setting me up to witness something bad happen for awhile. These people are playing with 🌊 sea monsters 👹
We can't even imagine the amount of water and the force... 🤯🙏🏽😬🙏🏽
Love the dude taking a picture when they are trying to rescue him just of the waves
Amazing story. Super engaging short. Great work.
Amazing Narrative! He is a great storyteller! I can see why he is a great teacher!
I did a Type 3 break of the radial head in remote country...spent 20hrs of teeth grinding agonising pain with bone protruding before I made it to a hospital and sweet morphine BUT I would never swap that for your experience bro. Thanks for sharing...respect 🙏
This must be the most detailed account of a Nazare wipe out EVER!!. These guy's are on a whole other level, absolutely amazing!!.. ✌
Wow man, really heavy shit being "pounded when bodyparts are broken. Have my own memory from surfing in South Africa when surfing a wave and I heard a gunshot sound and I just collapsed and was then trying to hang on to my longboard and every wave that hit me send excruciating pain from my leg where the cross ligament had been torn. Luckily the life guards had their eyes on me and came swimming out to help me.
Men, saw it last night on HBO... that wave was a monster... did it pass the 100 feet? ...Glad you were able to survive to tell the tale... had to come here to see what happened next, since HBO let us in suspense...
It was huge I asked the same thing on his ig
Incredible,only you could put something like this together.
Kudos to CJ and those who have the balls to get out there and surf those waves
wow what a experience ! Thank you for sharing !!!
God bless you guys for your courage!!
Glad he’s ok , I like the way he explains the situation … Peace out, Wow
The guy is almost dying and the grandpa is taking a selfie at 20:05 🤣
Fantastic rendition. So well told.
OMG!!! What a description! Amazing ;-)
this bloke could talk for 30min about how he peeled an banana skin. i had to have intermission during this
lol seriously
Straight up. Get on with it cunt
This was incredible!!!!
I don’t care how long it took you to tell your story I’m just glad your ok brother what brought tears to my eyes is when you said all your friends were there and your gf ran down and came by your side I have no gf and no friends not one I’m in this world all alone
Wow. Watching the show and it is edited so we don't know what happened to you till next sunday. Glad you are mostly okay. Pretty damn scary!! Be well!
Glad you made it dude
Unreal content
Best surf video I've seen in a while.. and faaarq me, I watch a few.
Great Story, makes me feel like it was me getting dunked
Glad he survived.That was intense.
I couldn't wait for the next "100 foot wave" episode to find out what happened , thank fuck he survived.
this is excellent
Hope you will surf nazare again you’re a true soul surfer
God loves you brother
more like this please
What a great story !
Sooo gnar!
Woah. Terrifying.
respect
That's hardcore
Not really a surfer but wouldn’t the 2nd or 3 waves of set been better ?
Epic
Nice job CJ
Considering how close you came to death, are you ready to meet God face to face? Please think about your eternity and let Jesus into your life.
What a man
I've seen bigger waves caused by my bathtub flatulence
Looks pretty full on. My worst wipeout happened on the bog about three months back