it's not the engine or the grass as much as it is the rear shield, this same engine is used in other brands af zero turns and they don't have the head issue nearly as bad if at all compared to the 757/737, they also changed the frame when they introduced the roll bar and blocked off all the air holes from under the seat plus they added panels around the blower housing, the issue is the rear shield acts as a baffle redirecting the hot air back into the engine area causing the over heating and cylinder head failure, I know this because i am a john deere tech and have repaired hundreds of these mowers for this issue, the fix is to remove the shield and let the mower idle and cool off for at least five minutes after use before shutting it off, also if there is any oil leaking from the engine and i mean any it needs to be addressed immediately, they mostly leak from the breather cover and front crankshaft seal behind the flywheel, the oil migrates up the front of the engine into the cooling air streem and attracts debris clogging the cooling fins causing over heating. these mowers are in my opinion the best zero turn deere has ever made.
I replaced the o-ring and still had an oil leak, it was leaking from the back case gasket, I tightened the 3 or 4 bolts at the bottom side slightly and it seems to have stopped leaking. Both sides of the engine had grass and stuff under thank you for showing this, would not normally have looked for it
Thanks for the info. Did you tie cables/wires back ? I believe there are more across the left head. I will pull my shrouds. The Deere service shop gives me crap about not having the pulley covers installed. But all they do is collect grass. As one guy mentioned below. I always let any engine I own idle down. Not sure that is going to solve an insulated head but good practice.
a little history fact. there was a class action lawsuit against Kawasaki for this very issue. the settlement was that Kawasaki provided a replacement front motor cover that has 2 removable plastic pieces. this allow you to unscrew the pieces and blow out the fins. the reason I know this is I own a 757...and while I never had this issue (umm I bought the 757 to mow less than an acre in town...30 minute mow)...I did get the free parts and they work well.
I have a 757 with the kawasaki and yes it did overheat, push a valve guide out and require several new parts. But I don't blame Kawasaki. I feel it's all JD's fault for using a motor that sucks cooling air from just above the deck where there is plenty of grass clippings in the air. I'm no authority but I don't think many manufacturers use a vertical v-twin drawing air from that location.
it's not the engine or the grass as much as it is the rear shield, this same engine is used in other brands af zero turns and they don't have the head issue nearly as bad if at all compared to the 757/737, they also changed the frame when they introduced the roll bar and blocked off all the air holes from under the seat plus they added panels around the blower housing, the issue is the rear shield acts as a baffle redirecting the hot air back into the engine area causing the over heating and cylinder head failure, I know this because i am a john deere tech and have repaired hundreds of these mowers for this issue, the fix is to remove the shield and let the mower idle and cool off for at least five minutes after use before shutting it off, also if there is any oil leaking from the engine and i mean any it needs to be addressed immediately, they mostly leak from the breather cover and front crankshaft seal behind the flywheel, the oil migrates up the front of the engine into the cooling air streem and attracts debris clogging the cooling fins causing over heating. these mowers are in my opinion the best zero turn deere has ever made.
Thank you for the reminder, ready to get mine out and will remove the shrouds and clean, I also have an oil leak and will be replacing the O-Ring
I replaced the o-ring and still had an oil leak, it was leaking from the back case gasket, I tightened the 3 or 4 bolts at the bottom side slightly and it seems to have stopped leaking. Both sides of the engine had grass and stuff under thank you for showing this, would not normally have looked for it
Thanks for the info. Did you tie cables/wires back ? I believe there are more across the left head.
I will pull my shrouds. The Deere service shop gives me crap about not having the pulley covers installed. But all they do is collect grass.
As one guy mentioned below. I always let any engine I own idle down. Not sure that is going to solve an insulated head but good practice.
a little history fact. there was a class action lawsuit against Kawasaki for this very issue. the settlement was that Kawasaki provided a replacement front motor cover that has 2 removable plastic pieces. this allow you to unscrew the pieces and blow out the fins. the reason I know this is I own a 757...and while I never had this issue (umm I bought the 757 to mow less than an acre in town...30 minute mow)...I did get the free parts and they work well.
I have a 757 with the kawasaki and yes it did overheat, push a valve guide out and require several new parts. But I don't blame Kawasaki. I feel it's all JD's fault for using a motor that sucks cooling air from just above the deck where there is plenty of grass clippings in the air. I'm no authority but I don't think many manufacturers use a vertical v-twin drawing air from that location.
What motor oil does it use?
Mine leaked extact same way before an after replacing the heads
Do you leave them off or just clean it and put it back?
I clean the engine best I can and replace. Plate is a heat shield. I try to blow out with compressed air after mowing.
Leave it off
is this wise?