Thinking more about the valve adjustment being tight. As the head of the valve closes by spring pressure, it wears the valve seat and valve face, raising the valve stem as it pulls into the cylinder head. This reduces the valve clearance over time and will begin to prevent the valve closing fully and therefore effecting the cylinders compression. Wear of the Cam and Rocker surfaces would tend to loosen the valve clearances but this must be insignificant compared to the valve face and seat wear.
You are correct and this causes a lean mixture and acts as a vacuum leak. When this occurs you will notice the header pipe glow from the lean hotter mixture
Do you spin the flywheel clockwise or counter clockwise to reach the "T" mark in the hole. I saw another reliable mechanic mention in his video to spin it clockwise to reach the T mark on the flywheel. Maybe he was mistaken. Thank you for the great video.
The motor runs in CW direction, the same direction as the wheels going forward. The TDC mark is stamped once on the flywheel so you can get to it in both directions.
@bms250ford I have a friends 2002 Suzuki ltf-250 quadrunner that I'm working on. When I got it, it started and ran, but the idle was surging up and down. Also the float bowl Gasquet was shot and leaking gas. So I removed the carb and cleaned it and rebuilt it with new parts. The only thing I didn't change was the needle that goes up to the top of carb diaphragm. It looked good. I also cleaned out the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel. I took the fuel petcock apart and the diaphragm inside was not in good condition so I installed a brand new petcock. I also took the fuel pump off and cleaned it. Then I installed all brand new fuel lines all the way to the carb. Only thing different was I installed a inline fuel filter on the main fuel line to the carb. After installing the carb again and making sure the air fuel mixture screw was set at 2 3/4 turns out. The bike starts easy, but after 1 or 2 minutes the idle starts to surge up and down again. Eventually it will surge up then down and stall. Then when I start it up again. I have to give it a small amount of throttle or it won't start. I also made sure the air cleaner and spark were new. Any suggestions of what could be making the idle surge? I'm going to adjust the valves next. Thanks to your video. I didn't know it was possible to adjust the valves without removing the motor, to access the flywheel inspection hole to see the T for top dead center. Thank you!
Great explanation of the work john. Just a few comments that are not that important. 1. Did you think of doing a compression test. 2. I use .05 and 0.1mm feeler gauges and bend the ends (I like tool mods). 3. The tappets should wear loose so agree someone has tightened them up. My gs850 has shims and they wear tight as the valve faces wear more that the shim cam interaction. 4. I would counter sink the battery screws , as just temporary ok. 5. those farm bikes normally have battery earth problems as the cow manure corrodes earth frame connections. Good video liked the valve adjustment using the pitch method.
1. I don't have a compression tester. Yes that would have confirmed my suspicion. Others have reported tightened valves. How it happens is a mystery to me. 2. I don't have 2 or 4 thou feeler guages. I should get a set that does. It is difficult to get the feeler under the tappet and get an accurate reading.
Thank you for the valve adjustment tricks..
Now I understand more..
Thanks
Thinking more about the valve adjustment being tight. As the head of the valve closes by spring pressure, it wears the valve seat and valve face, raising the valve stem as it pulls into the cylinder head. This reduces the valve clearance over time and will begin to prevent the valve closing fully and therefore effecting the cylinders compression. Wear of the Cam and Rocker surfaces would tend to loosen the valve clearances but this must be insignificant compared to the valve face and seat wear.
Yep. Seen it happen many times.
You are correct and this causes a lean mixture and acts as a vacuum leak. When this occurs you will notice the header pipe glow from the lean hotter mixture
Oh I wish I would've marked the re-coil when I did this last time!!!! I'll do it next time for sure.
Do you spin the flywheel clockwise or counter clockwise to reach the "T" mark in the hole. I saw another reliable mechanic mention in his video to spin it clockwise to reach the T mark on the flywheel. Maybe he was mistaken.
Thank you for the great video.
The motor runs in CW direction, the same direction as the wheels going forward. The TDC mark is stamped once on the flywheel so you can get to it in both directions.
@bms250ford I have a friends 2002 Suzuki ltf-250 quadrunner that I'm working on. When I got it, it started and ran, but the idle was surging up and down. Also the float bowl Gasquet was shot and leaking gas. So I removed the carb and cleaned it and rebuilt it with new parts. The only thing I didn't change was the needle that goes up to the top of carb diaphragm. It looked good. I also cleaned out the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel. I took the fuel petcock apart and the diaphragm inside was not in good condition so I installed a brand new petcock. I also took the fuel pump off and cleaned it. Then I installed all brand new fuel lines all the way to the carb. Only thing different was I installed a inline fuel filter on the main fuel line to the carb. After installing the carb again and making sure the air fuel mixture screw was set at 2 3/4 turns out. The bike starts easy, but after 1 or 2 minutes the idle starts to surge up and down again. Eventually it will surge up then down and stall. Then when I start it up again. I have to give it a small amount of throttle or it won't start. I also made sure the air cleaner and spark were new. Any suggestions of what could be making the idle surge? I'm going to adjust the valves next. Thanks to your video. I didn't know it was possible to adjust the valves without removing the motor, to access the flywheel inspection hole to see the T for top dead center. Thank you!
Great explanation of the work john. Just a few comments that are not that important.
1. Did you think of doing a compression test.
2. I use .05 and 0.1mm feeler gauges and bend the ends (I like tool mods).
3. The tappets should wear loose so agree someone has tightened them up. My gs850 has shims and they wear tight as the valve faces wear more that the shim cam interaction.
4. I would counter sink the battery screws , as just temporary ok.
5. those farm bikes normally have battery earth problems as the cow manure corrodes earth frame connections.
Good video liked the valve adjustment using the pitch method.
1. I don't have a compression tester. Yes that would have confirmed my suspicion. Others have reported tightened valves. How it happens is a mystery to me.
2. I don't have 2 or 4 thou feeler guages. I should get a set that does. It is difficult to get the feeler under the tappet and get an accurate reading.
23-28 is that different then the cam chn tensioner?
Not sure what mean?
@@bms250ford u said cam adjuster, curious if same thing
@@RocksNRuts4 Watch this video if you don’t get what is going on inside the cylinder head. ruclips.net/video/cQNiKMB5rF4/видео.html
I'd you our a plastic bag little pressure on the spark plug hole and turn it it will pap the bag out at tdc
What is schmidt's 16 spelling
Schneids15
Buy a power sprayer.
Can you just get to the point