This is a great video. My 2011 popped a couple codes and died on the highway. This will help tremendously with me getting it running again, fingers crossed.
Awesome video. I got the sensor switched out and all is well. Had to do the purge valve too so I can quit having trouble after filling up lol. So embarrassing.
I understand, 😅 the silverados and the charcoal canister cause the same fueling issue when you need to pump 20 gallons and you can only let it trickle it'll get on your nerves. I'm glad you liked the video, I appreciate the view and comment
You really need a scanner to do the relearn, or at least that's how I've always done it (some vehicles don't have the option) according to highway71autoparts.com you can try this method - NOTE: If the Crankshaft Variation Relearn is not accessible through your scanner (some truck applications 1998 & later), perform the relearn in the following manner: Turn off all of the accessories. With the Air temperature sensor and Coolant temperature within 5 degrees (Centigrade) of each other, start the engine and let it idle in Park or Neutral for two minutes. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8- 10 minutes until the engine reaches operating temperature. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6 minutes. Decelerate to 45 mph without using the brakes, and maintain 45 mph for 1 minute. Perform 4 deceleration cycles, without using the brakes, of 25 seconds each where no specific speed is necessary. Returning to 45 mph for 15 seconds in between deceleration cycles. Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise for 2 minutes. Stop the vehicle and idle for 2 minutes with the brake applied and the transmission in Drive (automatic trans.) or Neutral (manual trans.) with the clutch depressed.
Its always helpful to us do it yourselfers . If u show the reason u went there. What code u had n any additional ones. Then after u install it. Tell what u will need to do? Reset computor? Just reset code? Nothing? Code clears itself?
Thank you for the feed back, I've got several videos that have somehow disappeared. I've found it's better to do a diagnostic video and a separate replacement video for those who have already diagnosed and are ready to repair. I'll try to do better in the future linking the videos in Comments. Thanks again for the feed back!
Nice Video! I have a P0008 bank 1 code...engine position. No noise at all or performance issues so I'm hoping it's not the timing chain. Could this do the trick?
it's possible, Do you have any other codes? That's tricky because it's so vague without other supporting codes. Especially on these vehicles due to their timing chain issues and crankshaft reluctor issues. How many miles are on the vehicle, how many miles since the last oil change, have you checked the oil level, and how long have you been getting this code?
@@diy_automotive I change oil with synthetic every 5-7k. its 2011 and I have owned since new. No other codes at the moment. I have 175k on the vehicle and code is recent.
I had some engine movement so I replaced all of the engine mounts and was hoping that would do the trick. That need to be done anyway but code remains.,
@@kdiazcts engine movement shouldn't be related to this code. It's going to be somewhat difficult to properly diagnose that code without a lab scope or intrusive inspections. I would lean more towards cam sensors causing this code than I would a crank sensor. If I'm not mistaken you should be able to swap sensors from one head to the other I think there is a 10mm bolt holding each one in. I would swap both sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 etc clear codes and see if it comes back or changes. That will at least rule out those sensors. It could also be cam phasers that's why I asked about the oil. I've seen dirty or low oil cause similar issues on vehicles these days as well
@@diy_automotive Thanks so much for responding! As I understand the P0008 is rare and if it is timing chain typically has other codes associated. Again no signs whilst driving i.e. no noise, loss of power, jerky motions etc. I'm thinking ECU...
Yes I was just trying to touch base with you I change the camshaft and the crankshaft sensor on my 2011 Chevrolet traverse and I was coming home it just shut off on me at first it was spinning over and I won't spend over it just showing that it got power coming through the switches is that the crankshaft sensor or a switch
P0017 means the cam and crank sensor aren't seeing the same data (simplified version) this video shows the crank sensor you'd most likely want the cam sensor, when I get back to the shop I'll look up the location. It should be towards the front of the head. These vehicles were known for timing chain issues, among other things, so I would also check your oil for the proper level and be sure it's changed at the proper intervals
@@danieltaki219 possible causes for p0017 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Loose or Installed Incorrectly Crankshaft Reluctor Wheel Moved From Crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC) Engine Valve Timing Incorrect Timing Chain Tensioner Depending on the price of the cam sensor, you could toss one on and hope for the best. If that doesn't fix your problem, more in-depth diagnostics would be needed to find out if it is a mechanical problem with the timing itself. these engines are known for timing chains stretching. Location: rear of engine right below the valve cover (belt side of engine), there will be 2 cam sensors yours should be the furthest one back, I wish I could post a picture for you, I would look up the sensor on a parts website and that should help give you an idea of what you'll be looking for.
I have awd also 30 dollar part and I would hate to pay someone 400 dollars just to change it. So hopefully I can change it from the top. Thanks to the guy who said that
It fixed the issue without the relearn. I actually recorded this video last year when my scanner was being repaired (windex and diagnostic equipment do not mix well together 😅)
Does da crank sensor cause the engine to misfire n put exhaust fumes in the cabin when yu turn on your ac n hesitate when yu push down on the gas pedal n lose power n stutters a bit ?
It can cause misfire and hesitation, but the fumes issue sounds like exhaust problems. Either way, running that poorly should set some codes, even if the engine light isn't on. Those codes should help you understand what's malfunctioning.
@tretre1692 i look it up this evening. Basically, that's saying the crank sensor doesn't agree with what that sensor is saying. If it's only showing one corelation code, it's most likely a cam sensor or timing.n
possibly, but MANY things can cause a start and kill/stall condition. If it starts right up and then dies it might be something else. From my experience, the crank/cam sensors will either cause a no start, rough running condition or cause the vehicle to die once warmed up. If you could find a way to read any stored DTC's I could help you more. With the limited info you've provided, we would just be guessing at parts and that can get expensive. How many miles are on the vehicle, did it have any issues before the start/stall condition started? has it had any work done recently? I'm happy to help you, but I don't feel right telling you to replace a part without having enough information to make an educated guess at what might be wrong.
your comment isn't showing up on my side for some reason, whats the specific o2 sensor code you're getting? how long after the vehicle starts does it kill out?
I don't really know too much history on because I purchased it in the state that is the lady I purchased it from said she had just put gas ⛽ in and she was leaving the station it started to sputtering and killed , I'm fuel pump or bad gas just trying to get a second opinion I only bought it for $1800 dollars
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 213-4573 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor - amzn.to/3v8asxA (affiliate link, if you do purchase i will get a small commission) Don't forget to lube the o ring for an easier install.
I'm sorry you didn't understand the video, the sensor on the left (that I point to with a red lock tab) is the crank sensor. The sensor on the right that's round with a bolt through it is the knock sensor. Hope this helps, thanks for viewing
Diyautomotive.blog
The torque for the bolt is 8 ft-lbs. great video by the way. Very informative
Thank you for the response and compliment. I'm sure others will find the torque value useful as well.
Thanks, good video. One of the better ones I've seen on this repair.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind comment.
This is a great video. My 2011 popped a couple codes and died on the highway. This will help tremendously with me getting it running again, fingers crossed.
Hopefully so, feel free to post the codes If you have questions
Absolutely perfect repair video
Thank you!
Awesome video. I got the sensor switched out and all is well. Had to do the purge valve too so I can quit having trouble after filling up lol. So embarrassing.
I understand, 😅 the silverados and the charcoal canister cause the same fueling issue when you need to pump 20 gallons and you can only let it trickle it'll get on your nerves.
I'm glad you liked the video, I appreciate the view and comment
Is it hard to replace a ignition sensor on a 2014 traverse ? I just watched one of your videos at 812
Are you talking about an ignition coil?
Ive seen video talking about relearning or calibrating ckp sensor how do i do that
You really need a scanner to do the relearn, or at least that's how I've always done it (some vehicles don't have the option) according to highway71autoparts.com you can try this method -
NOTE: If the Crankshaft Variation Relearn is not accessible through your scanner (some truck applications 1998 & later), perform the relearn in the following manner:
Turn off all of the accessories. With the Air temperature sensor and Coolant temperature within 5 degrees (Centigrade) of each other, start the engine and let it idle in Park or Neutral for two minutes.
Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8- 10 minutes until the engine reaches operating temperature.
Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6 minutes.
Decelerate to 45 mph without using the brakes, and maintain 45 mph for 1 minute.
Perform 4 deceleration cycles, without using the brakes, of 25 seconds each where no specific speed is necessary. Returning to 45 mph for 15 seconds in between deceleration cycles.
Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise for 2 minutes.
Stop the vehicle and idle for 2 minutes with the brake applied and the transmission in Drive (automatic trans.) or Neutral (manual trans.) with the clutch depressed.
Thanks so much you just saved me 300 I appreciate it buddy
@Chravis98 you're welcome, glad I could help.
Its always helpful to us do it yourselfers . If u show the reason u went there. What code u had n any additional ones. Then after u install it. Tell what u will need to do? Reset computor? Just reset code? Nothing? Code clears itself?
Thank you for the feed back, I've got several videos that have somehow disappeared. I've found it's better to do a diagnostic video and a separate replacement video for those who have already diagnosed and are ready to repair. I'll try to do better in the future linking the videos in Comments. Thanks again for the feed back!
Nice Video! I have a P0008 bank 1 code...engine position. No noise at all or performance issues so I'm hoping it's not the timing chain. Could this do the trick?
it's possible, Do you have any other codes? That's tricky because it's so vague without other supporting codes. Especially on these vehicles due to their timing chain issues and crankshaft reluctor issues. How many miles are on the vehicle, how many miles since the last oil change, have you checked the oil level, and how long have you been getting this code?
@@diy_automotive I change oil with synthetic every 5-7k. its 2011 and I have owned since new. No other codes at the moment. I have 175k on the vehicle and code is recent.
I had some engine movement so I replaced all of the engine mounts and was hoping that would do the trick. That need to be done anyway but code remains.,
@@kdiazcts engine movement shouldn't be related to this code. It's going to be somewhat difficult to properly diagnose that code without a lab scope or intrusive inspections.
I would lean more towards cam sensors causing this code than I would a crank sensor. If I'm not mistaken you should be able to swap sensors from one head to the other I think there is a 10mm bolt holding each one in. I would swap both sensors from bank 1 to bank 2 etc clear codes and see if it comes back or changes. That will at least rule out those sensors.
It could also be cam phasers that's why I asked about the oil. I've seen dirty or low oil cause similar issues on vehicles these days as well
@@diy_automotive Thanks so much for responding! As I understand the P0008 is rare and if it is timing chain typically has other codes associated. Again no signs whilst driving i.e. no noise, loss of power, jerky motions etc. I'm thinking ECU...
Yes I was just trying to touch base with you I change the camshaft and the crankshaft sensor on my 2011 Chevrolet traverse and I was coming home it just shut off on me at first it was spinning over and I won't spend over it just showing that it got power coming through the switches is that the crankshaft sensor or a switch
The engine won't turn over at all when you try to crank it? Does it make any kind of noise ?
The sensor just to the right, is that the bank 1 knock sensor?
I can't remember for sure if it's bank 1 but it is a knock sensor
For future reference: cylinder 1 is on bank 1, so toward the cab (thus bank 2 is toward the front).
Is that bank 1 sensor B ? For the code P0017 ??
P0017 means the cam and crank sensor aren't seeing the same data (simplified version) this video shows the crank sensor you'd most likely want the cam sensor, when I get back to the shop I'll look up the location. It should be towards the front of the head.
These vehicles were known for timing chain issues, among other things, so I would also check your oil for the proper level and be sure it's changed at the proper intervals
Thanks man
@@danieltaki219 possible causes for p0017 -
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Loose or Installed Incorrectly
Crankshaft Reluctor Wheel Moved From Crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC)
Engine Valve Timing Incorrect
Timing Chain Tensioner
Depending on the price of the cam sensor, you could toss one on and hope for the best. If that doesn't fix your problem, more in-depth diagnostics would be needed to find out if it is a mechanical problem with the timing itself. these engines are known for timing chains stretching.
Location:
rear of engine right below the valve cover (belt side of engine), there will be 2 cam sensors yours should be the furthest one back, I wish I could post a picture for you, I would look up the sensor on a parts website and that should help give you an idea of what you'll be looking for.
Awd traverses are alitte bit harder to replace the crank position sensor with the transfer case and exhaust system in the way
I would definitely imagine so, thank you for sharing that for other future viewers.
@@diy_automotive ur welcome
Remove engine cover and air box you can remove it from top of engine just gotta do it by feeling around
I have awd also 30 dollar part and I would hate to pay someone 400 dollars just to change it. So hopefully I can change it from the top. Thanks to the guy who said that
So what all did you remove to get it clear and easy to get to because I doing it now can get one hand in
This was with the vehicle on a rack, without going back and looking I believe there was only a heat shield removed but it should be shown in the video
Did you do a relearn process for the new sensor or did it fix the issues without a relearn?
It fixed the issue without the relearn. I actually recorded this video last year when my scanner was being repaired (windex and diagnostic equipment do not mix well together 😅)
Thank you!!!
Does da crank sensor cause the engine to misfire n put exhaust fumes in the cabin when yu turn on your ac n hesitate when yu push down on the gas pedal n lose power n stutters a bit ?
It can cause misfire and hesitation, but the fumes issue sounds like exhaust problems. Either way, running that poorly should set some codes, even if the engine light isn't on. Those codes should help you understand what's malfunctioning.
which sensor is this? (bank 1 sensor B?)
This is the crank sensor, are you looking for the cam sensors?
@ i have code P0017, and it says “crankshaft position - camshaft postion correlation bank 1 sensor b? Notnsure which sensor I’m looking for honestly
@tretre1692 i look it up this evening. Basically, that's saying the crank sensor doesn't agree with what that sensor is saying. If it's only showing one corelation code, it's most likely a cam sensor or timing.n
@ i kept reading timing issue, but I wanted to try replacing the sensor first before getting into a timing mess since the sensor is only like 30$
@tretre1692 whats your year and engine size?
Is bank 2 on the front
If I'm not mistaken, from memory bank two is on the front, bank 1 is closest to the firewall
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here.
I appreciate the sub! Hopefully I'll be adding many more videos soon. Glad you found the video useful.
Hello, this sensor is on one side of the engine
Yes, on the side near bottom
Is the crank sensor above the oil pan?
Yes, it is
@@diy_automotive Thank you
Hi i have 2011 Buick enclave i have an issue with a start and kill situation could this sensor cause that?
possibly, but MANY things can cause a start and kill/stall condition. If it starts right up and then dies it might be something else. From my experience, the crank/cam sensors will either cause a no start, rough running condition or cause the vehicle to die once warmed up.
If you could find a way to read any stored DTC's I could help you more. With the limited info you've provided, we would just be guessing at parts and that can get expensive.
How many miles are on the vehicle, did it have any issues before the start/stall condition started? has it had any work done recently? I'm happy to help you, but I don't feel right telling you to replace a part without having enough information to make an educated guess at what might be wrong.
@@diy_automotive Only code I have is 02 sensor on Bank 1
your comment isn't showing up on my side for some reason, whats the specific o2 sensor code you're getting? how long after the vehicle starts does it kill out?
I don't really know too much history on because I purchased it in the state that is the lady I purchased it from said she had just put gas ⛽ in and she was leaving the station it started to sputtering and killed , I'm fuel pump or bad gas just trying to get a second opinion I only bought it for $1800 dollars
It starts and then kills but if I let the ignition sit in acc mode about 5 minutes or more it will run a good solid minute or 2
thank you, perfect fix.
I'm glad it helped
How many sensors are there
One crank sensor, but it also has the cam sensors
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 213-4573 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor -
amzn.to/3v8asxA
(affiliate link, if you do purchase i will get a small commission)
Don't forget to lube the o ring for an easier install.
How I take it off
The crank sensor?
The crank sensor?
I have a p0018 code could this be it
Possibly but many other things could cause it as well, what year model, how many miles are on it, and when was the last time oil was changed?
@@diy_automotive 2012 with just under 140000 I just changed the oil but I do change it regularly
Also it’s crank and camshaft bank 2. But the car runs completely normal.
Disregard my comments bro n thanks for the help
No worries man, you're welcome
Quit messing around and upload some more videos
I've been working on it 😅
This is a knock sensor. Thanks for misleading
Isnt the knock sensor the one on the right?
I'm sorry you didn't understand the video, the sensor on the left (that I point to with a red lock tab) is the crank sensor. The sensor on the right that's round with a bolt through it is the knock sensor.
Hope this helps, thanks for viewing
Did you do a relearn on this
I honestly can't remember, it's been a while since I've replaced a crank sensor on one of these
Ayy.. so this video is of the "crankshaft sensor" being replaced right?