Wiring the Motogadget m-Unit V.2 - Revival Cycles Tech Talk
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2014
- Please visit our technical articles for instructions on wiring the M-Unit Blue as well as comprehensive diagrams, complete kit checklist, troubleshooting guide, and tips for Motogadget accessory integration at our website:
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A flagship product here at Revival Cycles, the Motogadget m-Unit electronic controller is the end-all be-all of wiring solutions for your custom motorcycle or automotive project. In this video, Head Engineer at Revival Cycles, Stefan, walks through the process of wiring and configuring the Motogadget m-Unit, illustrating just how simple and powerful this gizmo really is.
Check our more details at our website here: store.revivalcycles.com/produc...
DISCLAIMER: This video is intended as an instructional video, so it's pretty dry, folks. If you're looking for a quick overview of features offered by the Motogadget m-Unit, check out our product overview video here: • Motogadget m-Unit V.2 ...
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Revival Cycles is the balance of passion and pragmatism. It is our belief that the motorcycle should be more than a machine; it is an aesthetic expression that demonstrates the beauty of purposeful form. It is not enough to simply have a mechanically adequate machine that ignores the visual form. To be truly remarkable requires something more: the seamless blending of visual design with technical excellence. When these elements come together with just the right mix, the result is as much fun to ride as it is to behold. At Revival Cycles, we believe a motorcycle should thrill and excite even before the first crackling rumble of an open exhaust.
Motorcycles are our passion, and we are here to support this passion in our fellow riders. It doesn’t matter what you ride, it doesn't even matter if you do not have a two-wheeled machine of your own (yet). The only thing that matters is that you have passion for motorcycles and separating from the masses. We are more than a repair shop, more than a custom motorcycle shop and more than a place to get gear. We are a cultural center for motorcyclists.
#revivalcycles
#techtalk
#motonerd
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This is one of the greatest How-To videos I've ever seen. Motogadget should make these by default!
They are not great with dealing with end customer. This would really help them.
This is the way 'how to' videos are supposed to be made. Thank you. I've had my eye on this system for my CB750 but was skeptical as to whether it was a gimmick or not. I'm sold. Purchasing soon and Revival is definitely on my watch list. You guys rock.
I love that you guys are now making these vids!!! fantastic.
I can see a visit to Revival Cycles in my near future. Thanks for the excellent video!
That's the kind of video that just convinced me to order all my M-Gadget stuff from you guys. So damn helpful. Expect a large order for a Guzzi this year...
Great how to video! I'm definitely putting an m-unit on my project bike. I look forward to seeing more videos.
This is an awesome product and you are an excellent teacher I appreciate your service! Thankyou
Love the 2001 Odyssey throwback with the monolith scene! Well done!
Thank you for this demonstration
cracking vid guys, I've been thinking about this for a while and youve just made up my mind.
Brilliant and clear demo as per normal. Your video has convinced me that the M-Unit v.2 is the way to go for my CB550 build.
Great video thanks so much for taking time out to demystify the M-unit. Love ya work!
Nice work on the video. Concise. Informative. No BS. No bad music or cheesing intro.
So awesome!!! I want this for my old 175 Honda cb project.. brilliant!
building a ducati 750 ss project, I was going to use the original harness. Now that I have seen this I am definitely going to get one. well made, thorough piece of electronics. thanks for the videos. !!
I don't put out a lot of comments out simply because of the immense number of bike videos out there but this was awesome. Thank you for making this so much easier to understand actually playing around with the pieces vs. just a conceptual explanation.
Great video and I will no question be going through you guys for my M-unit soon. Easy subscribe & like.
Have always wondered how the "M" unit works and this video has answered all my Questions, thank you very much, will be saving up to buy one for my next build, regards Doc Cox.
Thank you for explaining how to wire Msystems I am forever Grateful
Your videos are so bloody helpful. Thankyou. Great stuff.
Excellent video, thanks for the demo.
Omg best video....Thank You sooo muchhh! You def help an inspired many trying to built bikes. A million Thanks
this is ridiculously awesome. i love you guys
This is great! I was dreading the electrial part of the build (isn't everyone?) and the m-unit sounded like a good solution, but I wans't sure it was worth it until I saw this great video. Now I know for sure what I'm getting :)
This is really trick. Then I saw the fuse box capabilities and my mind was blow. Very nice video.
Thanks so much for making this video :D Really helpful
As a genuine Electronics Dummy, I gotta say, this might even be simple enough for me! Excellent demo, thank you!
saving up for my m-unit, little pricey but it looks well worth the money. Great vid!!
Thanx. so much information in a short amount of time. creat video.
great demo, great product
the reference to kubric is brilliant. :)
That is bad ass! Thanks for the video
Such a fantastic video. Definitely got a new subscriber out of me. Great stuff!
Great video. I am getting an M-unit for my 1979 Honda CX500 project.
superb videos you guys have; im building a little honda cafe racer and i am looking for components for it, im a total noob in fact this is my first bike but this video playlist of motogadget producst its amazing, a little pricy , but i think its worth every penny from what ive seen in your vids, ty not for sharing the products but for sharing the knowledge with people like me who are trying to get their bikes running and looking good and helping us make informed choices on how to achieve that!!
Thank you for your help.
Wow!!! This seems to be an AWSOME product. Just in the fact it labels the in/outputs, protects all circuits and customizable with the configuration button. I'm totally interested in replacing my load equalizer. This video has me saying "you are BRILLIANT" If it works like demonstrated for me on my bike all my problems will be solved and dreams have come true.
I know that feeling, and had the same reaction the first time I saw one. It does take a bit of work to complete an installation, but in my opinion it is far better, faster, and easier than doing a traditional wiring install. This is the coolest piece of moto electrics to come out in the last decade.
Thanks, this Will help Me alot.
THIS IS AMAZING!!!!
You deserve more subscribers ...
Love the beard brother... I'm envious.
Amazing video.....
This M unit looks very promising.
holy sweet baby jesus.....i love the channel...i love your bikes....this just blew my mind...order me up scotty!!
Very cool
Cool videos.
Brilliant
You should give lessons on how to do a how-to video. This wasn't "dry" in the least, very informative and well thought out, no filler or shitty music, you obviously prepped before filming-bottom line, I'm coming to you when I buy one of these.
Genius
Hi, and thanks for great videos. I have a FXSTB 2001 engine and frame, and are wondering how do you connect the m-unit, motoscope mini and motosign mini, and what would you keep from the old wiring harness when conncting it with the TwinCam? Or would you throw it all in the bin?
Great video, and not dry IMO. One question, at 11:50 you talk about the m wave blinker config. Does this work with LED lights? Or just regular indicator bulbs? Thanks!
***** The m-Wave blinker functionality on the m-Unit works with both LED and incandescent lighting, so you're covered either way!
Revival Cycles saweeeet!
Great video and thanks for posting! Just a quick question about the turn signals. I noticed that you only set up one signal. If you had both a left and right turn signal would you still control them with the one button? How does that work? I'm asking because I am thinking of using this set up on my bars and want to know if I should order a 2 or 3 button m-Switch. Thanks!
Saturdays Wrench We just set up one signal for the purposes of demonstration. The m-Unit has input and output terminals for both Left and Right side signals. So, using the m-Switch setup would require a button for each, left and right indicators. If you check out the product listing on our website, there's an image with all of the inputs and outputs documented for reference: revivalcycles.com/products/motogadget-m-unit-controller. (Just for clarification, use of the m-Switch does require an m-Unit to work properly.)
If you have any more questions, feel free to shoot us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com for more assistance!
Revival Cycles Yes, I figured it was just for demonstration. I guess what I'm asking is, you would set it up in a way that you would have one button on the left for the left signal and one on the right for the right signal? or would you have 2 on the left side of the bars? Thanks for the link, I will check it out. Thanks for replying also, I appreciate you guys taking the time to get back to people, it's cool.
Saturdays Wrench Apologies for the confusion! You can set the m-Switch buttons up really however you like, if you prefer a more traditional configuration with both left and right signals on the left side of your bars, you can do that. Generally, we set it up with one button on the left side of the bars for left signals and one on the right side of the bars for right signals.
Revival Cycles No worries.. Ok thanks again for everything!
When using the M-button with the M-unit, do you need an additional wire/button connected to the configure terminal to access the setup menu?
I didn't see this mentioned in the manual download you referenced. Or do you use one of the six switches connected to the M-button?
I'm getting ready to purchase the M-unit and switches but am unsure if I need to buy 2 three button units or 1 three button and a two button set.
Thank you for your time
supersportimpalass There's no need to buy an additional button, we generally use one of the buttons on the switches for programming and connect it to the proper function once we complete our configuration of the m-Unit.
Hello, first of all great video!
Very informative!
I have a question can I use stock handle bar switches (Honda CB750K)on this m-unit?
Thanks
+Masayoshi Terada
While you can use your stock switches with the m-Unit we don't generally recommend it. One of the primary benefits of installing an m-Unit is to eliminate variables that could cause a failure and the OEM controls on vintage bikes are a frequent source for electrical gremlins.
Here's a link to a PDF of the manual, motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Page 8 section 7.7 shows which configuration is required for Japanese bikes, configuration (C)
Modification to the wiring is required for the headlight switch to function correctly, you can find the description at the bottom of page 4 and a diagram at the top of page 5
good viedeo
Great informative video folks. I've ordered the V2 plus the button but would like to know is there a button you use to configure the settings?
If I lived in the US, I'd be over to you guys in a heartbeat. Wiring a sporty chop btw.
In general I don't use a dedicated button for m-Unit configuration, but instead just use a short length of wire and simply attach one end to the config input and tap the other to ground which simulates the switch but is faster than doing a permanent install. Normally we only need to do the config once.
Got a sub from me, some proper know how being shared.
Great video. I was wondering how the idiot lights, e.g. for the turn signals (indicators in the UK!) and hi / lo beam headlight, connected up in this system?
+Adam Connolly
The best explanation for the idiot light wiring is on the m-Unit manual page 11. motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf. But basically the neutral and oil pressure lights are switching the ground side of the electricity and this means that you connect power from the AUX output to the light, and then from the light to the respective switch, then when the switch is activated the light turns on. Then for the turn indicators and headlight high beam, power to the dash light is tapped off the power going to the actual light, and then goes through the dash light and then to ground. The one point that is different about the turn indicators is if you only have one dash light for both indicators then you need to use two diodes to prevent power from crossing from one side to the other at the dash light. On the other hand if you have two dash lights for right and left turn indicators then they can be wired directly in parallel to the primary turn indicators.
Hi i just bought an M-Unit because of how great these videos are!! can you advise me on which output i should use for a numberplate light?
Typically I like to use the AUX output for the number plate light. That way if the ignition is turned on and the engine is ready to run the number plate light is on.
Great tutorial... i just got my m unit blue. What happens to the CDI? I have a Dyna tech 3000 plugged into the factory wire harness. Thanks in advance
It depends on what you mean by CDI...that term gets used too often to describe an ignition control module, but it actually means Capacitor Discharge Ignition, and that is far less common these days. With the dyna 3000 you would just need to determine which wires are getting switched power and connect those to the AUX output or the ignition output.
Awesome product...
Quick Question. Are you wiring your ignition module and regulator to this unit as well, or there a separate unit for it???
I'm working on an 80 XS850 and it is a birdsnest. So I'm trying to figure out the best and cleanest way to rewire everything.
+fluffyD110
Both the ignition module and regulator are tied into the m-Unit. For reference, you can visit page 10 of the m-Unit manual at this link: motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
Your ignition will pull power from the AUX output on the m-Unit and the regulator ties into the Positive Main Terminal on the m-Unit.
If you have any more questions about your project, feel free to send us an email at websales@revivalcycles.com and we can help you out with specific wiring questions!
Hey there xs buddy. Got an xj1100 and yes the wiring is indeed a birdsnest haha. Hope your builds going well
the m-unit is so cool, its awesome, i thing i have to save some money to buy it, did you have send products to mexico?
+Harry Postres We do send products to Mexico. You can see shipping costs at the checkout screen. Thanks!!
Awesome product, wish there was some more info out on them, I purchased one through you guys, maybe you would know, what is the output on the AUX terminal? I've got one of those PAMCO units and for some reason I think it's only supposed to be fed 7.5 amps. Thx in advance
+TheGreatWhiteNorthTV
The output on the AUX is 16a so you shouldn't have any issues with the Pamco ignition. Page 7 in the manual provides the max amperage for each of the outputs.
motogadget.com/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
On your installs do you have fuse between the M-unit and the battery? If so what rating? The 10mm^2 cable they supply to power it is really hefty. Thanks!
+Tim Flannery The m-Unit doesn't need a fuse between it and the battery, but the charging system needs a fuse between it and the battery. So as long as the charging system is fuse protected you are good. The rating of this fuse depends on the gauge of the wire coming from the charging system, most the time these are 16 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse is appropriate. But this will depend on your specific bike.
On our installs we do not use the 10mm^2 wire because it is unnecessarily large, instead we use a very high quality 12 Ga copper wire with a cross-linked high temp insulation.
will you do a video about the m-unit blue? also how do you connect the speedometer and tacho to this system?
The m-Unit Blue is on the list, we've got one that we are starting to test, once we get a few extra minutes we will shoot a new video. As far as connecting the speedo and tach, that all depends on what type of speedo / tacho you have. In 90% of cases, the speedo/tacho are just getting power from the m-Unit via the AUX output, the m-Unit has nothing to do with the sensing or measurement.
in a previous video you mentioned that if a resistor went out, it may destroy and void the warranty of the m unit. I'm not very good with Electrical but when running your own wires would the direct line from the battery be the place to put a resistor?
I'm not sure which video you are referring too, but I'm guessing it was discussing a regulator / rectifier (reg/rec) and not a resistor. Regulators are used to limit the voltage that the charging system produces. The m-Unit has built in protections for situations where the regulator fails, by honking the horn and turning on lights to try to use up the excess power. But that will not protect the battery from a charging system or reg/rec short circuit, and this is the reason we recommend installing a main fuse between the battery and the regulator/rectifier.
hit it right on the head. exactly what i was talking about haha. sorry for the miscommunication. Ill definitely be ordering this unit and a few other bits from you in the next couple of months. this web series is incredibly helpful. Thanks!
If you don't have a button there should be no problem in just attaching a wire to config and connecting it to ground for push? right? - thanks for a nice product and great videos!
Yep, that totally works, and its exactly how I do it on our builds. Its usually faster to just grab a scrap wire off the bench than to walk across the shop to find a button. Its also temporary, so no need to use a real button.
Excellent Asger. This is the answer to my question! I take it you just tap the wire on the frame to change the settings? Or am I talking shite?
Your help is appreciated.
Hi Great Vid, I have a 1979 XLH 1000 sportster and im wondering if I need to use the starter relay?
With the m-Unit you do not need a starter relay. The start output is capable of delivering 30 amps to the stater solenoid and that is much more power than the solenoid will need. Also the m-Unit has built in load shedding relays so everything that can be off is turned off when starting so the starter has maximum available power.
Thank you heaps for the reply, also just wondering with the + input for the m-unit it comes with the 10mm cable. do I need to fuse it from the + battery to the + input of the M-Unit or can just directly connect it to the + battery terminal, because in the manual shown as 'main fuse' and not sure what actual fuse to use like 30amp? and is it worth fusing the regulator with a fuse (not sure witch fuse to use) to the same 10mm batter wire that came with the m-unit. thank you hoo much for the help.
And for those reading unsure if they should grab one of the m-units and clean up the wiring on your own pride and joy, nervously riding hoping the wiring they did or the previous owners did risking shorts and other things to happen. small out lay for major peace of mind was well worth it for me. Also very easy to wire up even for me that has no experience, worked it out and any questions these guys have been heaps of help ^^^.
Technically the m-Unit does not need a fuse for the main power input. However, the charging system should have a main fuse to protect the battery from a short circuit failure in the charging system or reg/rec.
The 10mm cable that comes with the m-Unit is sized to make you feel good, and to cover the worst case scenario, but not based on the actual electrical requirements. In this type of application 12 gauge TXL wire is rated to 40 amps, and for 90% of bikes that is more than the electrical system could possibly use or produce. NOTE: if you are using 12 Gauge you really need to use a main fuse for the m-Unit connection. But by switching to 12 gauge wire it is much easier to find a main fuse holder that works. And on our bikes I'll setup a main fuse close to the battery and use that to connect both the m-Unit and the charging system. We use either the IP67 waterproof main fuse holder that comes in our wiring kit, or the built in main fuse of the universal starter solenoid we sell. Just depends on what type of starter the bike has.
Awesome video and product. Question though, when you switch the hi beam on it's just a tap on the button then you hold the button to turn the head light totally off. If you wanted to switch back to a low beam from the hi beam, would it just be another tap on the button? Probably a silly question but just want to clarify.
Thanks again for the awesome video.
You got it right. Each tap cycles through the high/low and a long press cuts the light off.
Can the one wire tail/brake light function also include rear turn signals? I'm not sure I've asked that correctly, I want my stop tail led to be my turn signal as well. Thanks
+Shaun Walters This is something that has come up a few times, but the m-Unit is not setup to work this way. Although, it will work if you use another device called a tail light integrator. There are several motorcycle specific units and they usually cost about $80. There are also some simple versions that are intended for installing in a car to create a trailer light harness and these are frequently available at an auto parts store. With a little creative wiring you can make that work for about $40
Hey Stefan, great videos, just purchased an M unit on seeing those vids. just one question, does the unit come with a config button?
regards Steve Swan, Australia.
The m-Unit does not come with a config button, but in most cases that button is only needed temporarily. Because the configuration usually only needs to be done once, we don't do a permanent install for a config, and honestly in most cases I'll just use a length of wire that has both ends stripped, plug one in the config input and simply touch the other end to ground so it acts like a switch.
I think this is an area where Motogadget could improve their manual. I read that thing 4 times cover to cover, without any real clarity on which button they keep referring to.. The idea of using a wire as a button is not exactly instinctual, so thanks for that piece of advice. I was wondering though, since I have a 6 button control set up, and one of them is unused, could it be set up as a full time configuration button? I do have the M-button, so not sure how that plays into it.. Thanks!!!
It is true that the manual leaves a lot of room for improvement. Its one of those things that makes sense once you already understand it, but it leaves a lot of gaps for those new to this stuff. Using the 6th button as a permananet config button will work just fine, however, you should be aware that it will only be a config button if you enter the config menus during the boot cycle. Once the m-Unit is initialized the "config" button is actually a dedicated kill switch.
Question: is the m-unit self canceling for the turn signals? If they are that would be awesome...Thank you
Yes, the m-Unit can be setup to self cancel turn signals. You can program from a selection of count down times, but also the count down timer waits to start until after you let off the brake lever.
wow
Can you program the m-unit to keep the turn light on for a few seconds without the need to keep the button pushed like on the old Harley-s?
Or it can just turn them off on newer models after a programmed interval?
The way that the turn signals work with an m-Unit and momentary push buttons for inputs, is as follows:
1) A very short press will flash the turn signals 3 times and then stop
2) A press for more than 1 second will activate the turn signal and it will stay active until the programmed timer count down is complete. This timer can be set at 10 sec, 20 sec, 30 sec, 40 sec, 50 sec, or no automatic cancel. Also note that activating the brake switch will reset this timer. This means the self canceling feature will only work if you are not using the brakes for the duration of the timer count down.
3) Pressing BOTH left and right buttons at the same time will activate the hazard four way flashers and turn on both left and right signals at the same time, with no self canceling timer. This will also stay active if the m-Unit is shut down and the key is removed.
Loving your Videos and the Motogadget. Heres one for you. I have the Motoscope pro with the breakout box b, m-unit v2 and m-button. Before I start the install on my streetfighter 1999 R1 can I assume that it is posible to do install the Motoscope pro + breakout box B to the m-unit without any issues. Any tips would be greatfully received. Regards Mike
It is possible to install those components without issues, but it will take patience and a methodical approach. With bikes from that era the one main thing to double check is if the OEM ignition key had a security resistor built in. Some of the bikes from the late 90's had a simple resistor built into the ignition switch that would connect to the Ignition module and it would act like a security system making it much more difficult to hot wire the bike. If you know its there its easy to bypass, but you want to measure the resistance across the terminals of the ignition switch with the key in the ON position to see if there is one. Forums for your bike will also address this if it is a problem.
Also recommend watching the wire planning and diagramming video ruclips.net/video/-m5aUoAK_DM/видео.html
Keep in mind that the motoscope pro and breakout box are just monitors for what is happening on the bike and do not control any part of the bike. The m-Unit will control power distribution but the ignition system and charging system need to be setup to work the same way they did with the original bike.
Could you in theory use an m-unit to run a 12v system on an old car/truck? Seems like the bees knees! Thanks for a very informative video!
+Stefan Stratton
In theory, you could absolutely use an m-Unit to run an old car or truck. It's uncharted territory for the team here, so we imagine there may be a few hurdles you might encounter along the way, although it's definitely a project we've discussed undertaking here at the shop.
If you do give it a go, drop us a line (websales@revivalcycles) to let us know how it's going or if you have any questions. We'd love to hear about it!
Can you wire it up using a battery eliminator capacitor?
The m-Unit is not compatible with battery eliminator capacitors. But these days with the incredibly small size of LiFePO4 batteries, there is not much need for the eliminator capacitors on kick only bikes. If you would like to discuss the details of an application or spec a battery for your bike email us at techsupport@revivalcycles.com Thanks!
I think it's already answered in the video , but just to confirm when running LEDs instead of incandescents with the M-Unit you don't need resistors correct?
The m-Unit doesn't require load balance resistors with LED's, and the built in flasher relay is compatible with any type of 6 or 12 volt light. However, depending on what type of LED's you are using you might need current limiting resistors. Most LED's sold for vehicle applications have this built in, but if you are building a DIY light with raw LED's you'll need some type of current control, and the easiest way is a simple current limiting resistor.
Would this unit be able to be used on a bike running a battery delete (ie. PMA into capacitor)?
Nice presentation of a great product.
I'm looking to get rid of both my clunky OEM instrument clusters on my 2013 Ducati 1100 EVO ABS.
How would the m-Unit control, scroll and select the finer functions of the OEM display? Such as changing miles to kilometers, changing Rider ABS intervention level, display brightness for example?
These are currently controlled by a rocker switch you move forward and backward, holding each down respectively to confirm a wanted change in preference.
Thank you,
Caswa
This is not a straightforward question, and really a bike that is sophisticated enough to have different riding modes, and ABS settings should have very high quality wiring that makes the use of an m-Unit un-necessary. Specifically with ducaiti's removing the OEM instruments and dash panel can be very problematic as they incorporate that into the anti-theft system in many cases.
We haven't re-worked the electrical on that generation of monster yet, so you may find more accurate info on the duc forums. It may be possible to remove the gauges, on your bike, but I know the bikes from the early 2000's through 2008 cannot have the gauge removed with out reprogramming or replacing the ECU to eliminate the anti-theft system.
If this is something you really want to do email techsupport@revivalcycels.com and we can help you come up with a plan, and try to give a gist of what to expect for challenges along the way.
where is a good place to find a key with ignition, or a good way around it?
We have one available on our store revivalcycles.com/products/universal-under-tank-ignition-switch
If you are looking for a way around it, you can use a simple toggle switch, or latching push button. But details depend on exactly what you are trying to do.
I suppose the M unit does also work with other buttons and switches instead of the "M-button" and such? Like everyone said reaaaaally good how to video !! thanks !!!
Yep, the m-Unit will work with virtually any type of switch you want to use. That is part of what makes it so cool is that the input side of the m-Unit doesn't handle any current, and are just signals that tell the m-Unit what to turn on. Any device that can turn on and off a connection to ground will work for the input side of the m-Unit.
what is a good source for the switches /controls you are using? thanks in advance.
Everything used in this video including the m-Unit and a whole lot more is availible at www.revivalcycles.com. Take a look and if there is anything you are looking for but can't find, send an email to websales@revivalcycles.com thanks for watching our videos!
So, If I use the M-Unit I'm not going to need to use a fuse box and a starter relay/solenoid?
Hey, i ordered a m-unit with the m-button, but my bike is batteryless kickstart only. Will i need to stick a small battery in there? Like maybe the one you guys are using in the video?
my observation is that the M Unit is decades newer technology from the old fuse box design.. this is so much safer when a short happens and the fuse blows. Also it seems to me that it would also be impossible to fry wires with the M Unit almost making it impossible to burn your bike up.. I am really wanting to rewire my Kawasaki ZRX using this technology
hi..is the configuration button included with the m-unit?or do i have to buy it separately? and does the m,-unit technically replaced the fuse?
+Ros ariff Roslan
The m-Unit does not include a configuration button. However, configuration button is only used during setup and it is not absolutely necessary to purchase one separately. On all our builds we just use a short length of wire to make a temporary switch, one end of the wire is inserted into the config terminal, the other is touched to a chassis ground to create a switch, just use this the same way you would a button. There is no current that flows from the config terminal so there is no risk of getting shocked, just be sure you are touching ground and not positive voltage. Once the configuration is complete, you remove the wire from config. Its quick and dirty but it gets the job done and you don't waste money on another switch.
The m-Unit does replace the fuse block. It has preset current limits for all the outputs on the m-Unit and if the current exceeds these values the m-Unit will shut down that output. There are a couple exceptions to this. First, you still need a main fuse to protect your battery from a charging system failure. And second, if you are connecting thin gauge wire to the outputs, they should be fused to the appropriate amperage for the gauge wire you are using. As an example of this, if you are using a Motogadget gauge, the wire is very small gauge and it gets power from the AUX output. The AUX output can supply 16Amps and that gauge wire should be fused at 1Amp, and therefore a fuse is required to protect the thin wire that goes to the Motogadget gauge.
+Revival Cycles great video series, helped out a lot.. a quick question .... when i have the m button installed the config input is used and when i tried to use the config button it did not work... when i removed the m button config cable i could configure the m unit as normal... this causes a problem as it is not that great to have to keep removing the m button to re configure the alarm for example... anyway i could put a switch that isolates teh m button but i was wondering if you had a better idea?
Rewiring my GSXR1100 and have questions about hi/low beam wiring with a stock switch.
Menu 5, config C seems to retain the first position low, second position high switch functionality?
Is it the low beam wire that runs from the switch to the m-unit headlight input, and the high beam wire that is no longer needed?
Thanks
Yes, you are correct. When using factory toggle switches to control headlight function with the m-Unit you connect the low beam wire to the light input on the m-Unit, and then make sure the factory switch is switching to ground (not positive the way it was originally wired) and then there is no connection for the high beam switch. The manual doesn't cover this in much detail but it is referenced at the bottom of page 4 and top of page 5.
Also menu 5, option C is the correct configuration for this switch combination.
if like to order one of these for my 1980 Yamaha XS650 project. I don't trust the crappy fuse box it has right now and need to add tail light. could you provide a how to guide to get installation done myself?
I have ordered one for my ‘69 Bonnie ....the question is : how to manage the positive ground on that wiring ? Thanks a lot !
Thanks for the order, and I hope you've already got this info, but in case you are still wondering. The best way to deal with this is to switch to a negative earth system. It sounds worse than it is, and you really just need to take a look at the charging system and the ignition system and rearrange how they are wired.
Most ignition systems can be setup to work both ways, same is true for the regulator/rectifier in the charging system. But worst case you may need to get a new reg/rec.
hallo is it possible You make a video a bout the c5ig ignition i woud like tot sees hoe it work with special for a virago
Thanks for the request, the C5 ignition tech talk is on the list, but we haven't scheduled it yet...we will move it up on the priority list. This is the best ignition system we've found, simple to install, simple to time, extremely effective, and perfectly accurate.
We have installed many aftermarket ignitions and this is the C5 is the best.
wow thank You for the fast respons i all ready orderd the 'm unit because of this video for my virago i 'm looping for werd for the c5ig for the virago alle ready thanks
Yea those C5 ignitions are great, and while we don't have all the models listed on our webstore, we are an official dealer and can get you whatever you need. We can also program custom ignition curves if you want to do something specific. We've got the C5 on the list for tech talks, but there are a few topics that are ahead of it.
Revival Cycles I want to add a horn brake and indicator lights on my off road bike , just powers by a single antigravity battery , and m unit is this possible ? Thanks
you said it's 6-24v compatible? I have a 1975kz900 that needs to batteries to start (14:1 comp). could i just run 24v all the time assuming my lights and coils can handle it?
Always awesome useful videos thanks Stefan. I'm having issues with my m-unit As soon as I touch the "Start Out" blue cable to my starter solenoid (point 50) the bike immediately tries to start.I have tried this with the m-unit off and on with the same result (the bike tries to start).I removed the config wire to test and the same result.The M-Unit is acting like it has "always on" for the "Start Out". any ideas.? thanks
Hmmm, that is an interesting one. It is possible that the start output has failed and is stuck in the on position. The best test for this would be to use a spare turn signal or light bulb to check if the start output is always on. One wire to ground one wire to start, if the light turns on then the start output is damaged and the m-Unit will need to be replaced.
It doesn't work to test the output with a multi-meter because the solid state devices will still show voltage even though they are actually off. The only proper way to test an output on the m-Unit is with a "load" like a standard 12V light bulb.
Hi Stephen,
Looking on internet i cannot figure out the output specs in "one wire tail light mode", i see that you can choose bulbs or leds in the menu, but is it amps or voltage regulation with leds? have you got some specs to give?
Also, regulators are running aroud 13,5v in use, so, do the m-unit realy deliver 12v or is it just a value given in usual admittance (as for batteries when we know they are "normaly" around 12.85v), to resume do the m-unit provide 12v ? or do outputs follows the régulator tension in input?
Great video Bro, thanks a lot!
We don't have the detailed specs for the 1-wire tail light, but I can give some general info on the subject. The 1-wire mode will perform some pulse width modulation to reduce the total power sent to the tail light and then when the brake input is grounded by the brake switches, the m-Unit sends full power to the tail light. The difference between the LED and Standard bulb mode is the frequency of the pulse width modulation. The standard bulb uses a slower rate than the LED because if the LED was pulsed at the standard bulb rate it would be noticeable as a flickering.
The m-Unit will output the same voltage as what is provided to it, it does not change the voltage to the outputs. So if your battery or regulator is at 13.5v then the outputs will be 13.5v. I have tested this and found only a very small difference between the input and output, but it is so small it can be ignored.
To be clear the m-Unit does not do any regulation of the voltage or the current in the system. BUT in the case of the 1-wire tail light it does use pulse width modulation (turn on/off very quickly) to reduce the brightness of the light.
Thanks a lot....
Is the switch in this video the two position switch that y'all offer?
Also, do I still need a starter solenoid or is that built in as well?
+Alex Carter
You got it, that is the same switch we offer on the site and use on most of our builds. There's also a 3 position available if you need.
+Alex Carter
The m-Unit does not replace the starter solenoid, but in most applications that is the only relay that needs to be retained.
Let us know if you have any other questions, you can also direct them to websales@revivalcycles.com and we'll be happy to help you out.
If you got a cdi powered by your generator at the flywheel, how would you go about wiring the key switch and what would Aux output be powering?
The key switch for the m-Unit is the same as it is on any of the installs, the switch provides power to the lock input. When the lock input is not powered, the m-Unit it off, when the lock input has power it is turned on. The m-Unit does not work with bikes that don't have a battery.
With a CDI type ignition system, I use the AUX to power a normally closed relay. Then the relay is used to ground the kill wire from the ignition control module. That way, when the AUX is off, the relay is closed and the kill wire is grounded (no spark). When the AUX is powered the relay is open so the CDI will generate a spark.
I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my dumb questions! My worry is that by send high DC to the CDI via the aux output as in the motogadget wiring diagram, would I not damage it seeing as it's normally powered by the magneto?
Just to clarify, the AUX does not connect directly to the CDI. Instead, the CDI is wired up as shown on the factory diagram, so the magneto still powers the CDI, and the coils are powered by the CDI, and the pickup coils tell the CDI when to spark. But the AUX is used to control a normally closed relay that replaces the manually operated kill switch or key switch.
Got it !! That diagram with aux spliced into the ignition coil feed confused the hell out of me. Just got the headlight low/high beam with oem controls and m-button to suss now. Thanks again for your help.✌️
Take a look at the manual on the bottom of page 4 and the top of page 5, that explains the hookup for stock controls on the headlight. But basically it uses the stock toggle switch like a true / false input, if the llight input is grounded, that tells the m-Unit low beam, if the light input is not grounded that means high beam. So you only connect the low beam wire from the switch to the input, and the high beam wire from the switch is not connected to anything.
The m-Button is wired up exactly as shown in the diagrams, there is nothing special about using stock switches. The magic happens in the m-Unit when you setup the configuration of menu 5. Make sure the configuration matches the type of switches you are using.
could you guys go into some details on how to wire the munit to the c.d.i.?
This may be a topic for a future video, but it is difficult to address the nuance of each different bike. The best advice I can offer is to trace out the connections from the CDI on the wire diagram. Then look for the wire that is connected to the kill switch or ignition switch, track that back and make sure it is sourcing +12V and then that is the wire that gets connected to the AUX out on the m-Unit. The rest should be connected the same as it was on the original setup.
Revival Cycles thanks guys!
Where do the outputs get their grounds from? I only say him give grounds to the switches.
From the chassis
Hi, we're using a two way 3 wire rocker switch for the headlight, scratching our heads how we wire low high beam switch in.
Low beam wire does not connect to anything. The best plan is to use some heat shrink to cap the end so it can't accidentally touch something and cause problems
Thank you.
Very nice video. I am sold and I will purchase ALL my motogadget gear from your website! I have a two questions, is it possible to set it up so all the turn signals flash at the same time? It would be useful for lane splitting. Also, can I connect the handlebar signals on top of the other 4 turn signals to the M-Unit? Thank you!
Yes there is a "hazzard" flashing feature on the m-Unit, just push both left and right turn signal buttons at the same time. That does mean you need to have momentary push button controls for the turn signals, and you would not be able to use a stock style toggle switch for the turn signal control.
Thank you for educating me for I am new to this work. I plan to transform all my lights units, ignition system and the regulator rectifier into 12Volts system. I am pretty sure know how to hook up the m-unit v2 to the ignition system, lights, turns signals, brake lights. Where will I hook up the regulator rectifier to and from? Will the link that i sent to you would work if i follow that schematic? Or to you have any suggestion? Thank you for your help.
Quoc Luu
Using the wiring diagram you sent to us, you would hook up the regulator rectifier as referenced in the diagram. To reiterate though, you will need to have a regulator rectifier compatible with the new engine.