Revival Cycles' Tech Talk - The Ins and Outs of the Motogadget M-Unit Blue
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this episode of Revival Cycles' Tech Talk, Stefan shows you the ins and outs of the Motogadget M-Unit Blue. What the inputs do, what the outputs do, and an overall look at this feature rich device.
If you haven't seen our video introducing the M-Unit Blue you can view it here:
• Meet the Motogadget M-...
To pre-order your own Motogadget M-Unit Blue from Revival Cycles:
revivalcycles....
Can you do a video on how to configure or set up the speedometer to the m unit blue please
Just ordered the m-unit blue and accessories from Revival because you do so much for those of us that have no idea what the hell we are doing but give us the confidence to try anyway. Thanks and keep them coming!!
PonyBoy71 love that!😘 be sure to visit the tech articles page if the site. The guides and diagrams will take you through the entire install from start to finish.
thank you for finally explaining how the one wire tail/brake light set up worked, I knew that it did, because of seeing it work, but was still at a loss on how. pulse width modulation, makes sense now.
I e-mailed you guys for some information regarding this m unit. I just wanted to say you guys are fantastic not only got back to me straight away but the information u provided for me was fantastic. Brilliant!
Thanks Gary, that was me and I agree, I am awesome!
I love your Video's and it's what made me buy the Motogadget-M Blue I have it installed on a 1989 Harley Sportster Hugger and everything is great I only have one problem with the Brake switches no matter which wire Red or Orange it doesn't work If I ground one after hooking up to the M-unit the brake light comes on but doesn't go out I have it set to Harley Switches in options everything else is working great
For more in-depth help please feel free to reach out to our tech support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
You guys are great, this video is really helping me understand my next project
Great to hear! Be sure and check out the series of guides and diagrams in our Knowledge Base. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Great vid as always! You all rock!
I finished an install of this on my BMW Airhead (1986 R65), and it's working like a charm. Not sure how I managed to get one of these in April, since they seem to be on pre-order. But it's been a fun project.
A couple of notes I'd add:
- The L and R turn outputs are also configureable, so in the past when you would need an m-wave relay or something of the likes, you no longer need that to do funky pulse or wave type turn modulation.
- The m-button, wires to the KILL input, for anyone using one of those.
- It works really great with an m-lock in there as well, incase your phone dies or you don't have it, you can still have completely keyless ignition.
- It took me a few tries to get the stock BMW ignition working properly, if anyone has any questions or a problem, gimme a shout.
Thanks for the first hand info, and congrats on getting one of the pilot run parts from Germany...I think they only sold 400 on that first round and they were not supposed to be sold in the US. Guess you got lucky :)
Have they updated you guys at all as to when you will get them in to start sending out? Have my v2.0 up with lots of bites but waiting til my Blue comes in from the pre-order. My v2.0 hasn't even made it down the road at this point lol.
The rumors are that the distributor should receive them this week, and we should be getting them sometime next week, but this is still unconfirmed. We will get them out as soon as possible.
Cheers Joe. I was wondering where the m button went. Top fella.
Hi Joe, I'm about to install one of these on a 78 R100, what did you have to do to get this functioning on your airhead? Do you have a basic wiring diagram of what worked for you? Thanks
I'm about ready to do the electronics for my '82 CB750 rebuild and I was about to spring for the M-Unit V2. Looks like I get to spend more time researching to see if this is worth the extra cash
Hi, one question please. With m unit blue do I need m lock also?
No, you do not need to use an M-Lock with the M-Unit.
Awesome stuff man. About time shit moved into the 21st century.
The bike behind you looks like the Ducati that was just shown on Jay Leno.
Crisp clear video! If I may be so bold as to ask a question. I intend to install an M unit on a yamaha sr500 (so kick only) but don't want to use a kill switch. Can I use a toggle switch on the lock input for that? That will also interrupt the ignition, right?
Indeed, you can just use the switch you're wanting as a main power switch and it will turn the M-Unit itself on and off and with that the ignition as well.
Installed this on my 96 vs1400 custom bobber that I recently built. This thing is amazing and I can't express enough how happy I am with it. I had a couple questions pertaining to wiring it to my cdi. I contacted these guys and got immediate response. Thanks guys
Hi Stefan, another question, I hope you don't mind. When I wire my MUnit blue up, one I activate the M Lock, all the outputs are continually flashing from front to back from start to Aux 2. Not sure why and hope you can help. Thanks Andy
Drop an email to techsupport@revivalcycles.com and we can help get you on the right track. Thanks!
I was wondering a few things after watching your videos on wiring the m unit blue.
1. do you need to connect the positive cable to the unit and the negative to the chassis on both sides (input and output)? Or only on the output side?
2. How do you connect the indicator lights in the tachometer? Is it also on the output side together with the cables going directly to the lamps (headlight, turn signals etc.)?
3. When wiring the ignition lock to the unit how do you know which cable to use? On my model the ignition lock has 4 cables and only one of them goes into the unit. Two goes to the alternator and fuse box while one goes to parking light, tail light and number plate light and the last one goes to the tachometer light. Are those lights controlled through the unit, so that only one cable can control which lights will turn on when the lock is turned on? The problem is figuring out which cable to wire to the unit out of the four cables
For more in-depth help feel free to reach out to our tech support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Thanks!
I was just bench testing mine the way had yours set up (because my bikes not ready to have it installed yet). But when I put the wire in to the lock receptacle the ignition light stays on like yours but also my AUX 2 light stays on.
You can configure your M-Unit in a few different ways. For more in-depth help please feel free to reach out to our tech support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Hi Stefan, In regards to the inputs on the Munit Blue. In between the stand and the light, what is the L IN for? Hope you can help. Thanks Andy
LIN BUS input connects to other Motogadget components.
So I had an issue with a short on my 1976 CB750 last fall, and decided to pony up and buy the M-unit and wiring kit, and hire someone in Denver to do the work. SO may questions. They mounted it forward facing (facing the air-pods) as opposed to under the seat, which has me worried about a short if I were to ride in a rain storm. They wired a 20 A fuse to the unit, which I thought replaced all fused. Lastly the "input" side of the M-unit seems to be unused? In the app it is all greyed out, and I do not recall anything being wired to that side. All of the output functions work. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
We wouldn't worry about it shorting out as much as we'd worry about keeping it free of road debris and grime - those things (as well as water) can create corrosion issues and enable the unit to collect gunk in all of the ports. Wouldn't recommend.
The Mo-Unit replaces just about all fuses but you still need a main fuse.
Unless you are utilizing the Mo-Button (which only uses the "kill" input port) you will need to run all of your input wires to the corresponding input port on the Mo-Unit.
Could I split the turn signal wires and tie them into a hazard switch effectively triggering both turn signals at the same time?
If you are using an M-Unit and momentary switches to control your turn signal then there is already a built-in function to run both turn signals simultaneously.
brilliant video... thanks
For anyone reading (My questions after the video that I went to look up) - M-Button goes to "kill" apparently according to the manual. Maybe a reason it is backwards to the norm as kill switch so that it can take the m-button digital input?
After the video I was hoping I could eliminate the starter solenoid potentially but It was my high hopes getting the best of me it looks like the solenoid is still needed.
Ordering mine now no question after this video. Independent ignition OUT so I don't have to wire with the rest of the aux wires and having two dedicated AUX outputs is amazing. Stefan's explanation that the AUX 1/2 are CONTROLLABLE cleared my concern in the first place. Eliminate the need for the m-lock with the phone and seeing how it actually works is pretty wicked. Not having to remove my seat nor use a config button for configurations!!! (even though I will now have a useless button on my controls).
I am very curious to see what "Line" turns out to make use of.
QUESTIONS!!!!
Regarding the speed sensor and the km/maintenance tracking. Is this an applicable option for the old bikes. I know nothing about how this would work on them, anyone with knowledge I'd appreciate it.
I don't see the "Config" input on the new blue version...Where would you put the M-Button? THANKS!!
Brian Piper where did you put it into?
@@DaBlahdeVomGodskinDuo It goes into the KILL input.
Hi
I have a 6 wire led headlight that has turn signals and a running light in it. I am using the motoscope tiny, m-button, m-switches and the m-unit blue. Where in my wiring of the led headlight does the white wire for the headlight running light go? Can I wire it to run with low beam or would that draw too much power for one output?
Thank you
Paul
For more in-depth help please feel free to reach out to our tech support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Thank you!
I get a notification ‘defect turn left’ and it’s blinking double as fast. Even when nothing is attached to the out, the m.unit out is blinking fast. But when i turn all turn signals on (all 4), it blinks normal.
Even after calibration it is still not working correctly😢
What s great website, I'm just starting to build a Honda CB550F cafe racer in England and I've decided to use the Motogadget equipment as a direct response to Revival Cycles tech talks. you guys are brilliant and I'm following you closely so expect to hear from me in the future. keep up the good work as its much appreciated.
Thank you for a great video. I am looking for a fuse box and was considering the Motogadget Blue but my primary need is to provide aux connections, not rewire the bike, so this is the wrong unit for my current need.
Thanks for this Video. Its exactly what i need to connect the m unit blue without E start button. Perfect Video.
Do I need a start relay with the m unit?
This is a common source of confusion. You do need a starter solenoid which is a high current relay but you do not need a starter relay that sits between the solenoid and start button. That relay is incorporated in to the m.Unit
Can you add more ox inputs? Is there any modules at on now ?
Hi guys great videos, I am looking for some advice regarding fitting a m unit to my vw trike rebuild, do you know if this is possible as trying to reduce the original wiring loom. Regards Martin
Need to stress how important it is to run the config voltage setting at the end of install or when any new device is installed. Did not harm the munit. But cooked a couple electronic ignitions and a couple coils. But after runs strong and smooth.
Would it be best to purchase the M-Unit Blue before! I start my lighting system upgrade on my 76 xs500c ? This is something I need!
Possibly, it's definitely a great idea to write out a timeline of your project goals and the materials required to meet them. That way you can determine if you are likely to spend money early on for components that will become obsolescent or incompatible later on.
If you are upgrading to LEDs before installing an m.Unit you will need an LED compatible flasher relay. Later on that relay won't be necessary, not a huge financial loss but you may not want to drop $50 for a trick Motogadget relay when a cheap $10 one will serve temporarily. On that note, I never use LED load balance resistors on a bike unless it's a situation where the ECU manages or monitor the flashing function. If not installed properly Load Balance resistors can get hot enough to start fires or the ceramic kinds can become waterlogged or rattle themselves apart.
THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH for the help you were so kind to give me ! I could not find serious information in France to install a M Unit basic on a CB 550 F1. I sent an email to the REVIVAL CYCLES staff, and got a proper answer to my questions, even if I am not a customer (yet !!) Anyway I really appreciate your efficient help, thank you again for sharing passion, advices and time.
Glad I could help!
with the amount of times my phones throughout the years have spontaneously disconnected from a bluetooth device... i think i'll stick with an analog ignition switch
I have no ignition switch and I have a total loss 2 stroke engine that doesnt need a battery to be connected to run. No starter, its kick start. I should wire a switch to the ignition output? I want to use only keyless go. I cant pair my phone without ignition switch. I dont want to blow up my munit blue
Ignition switch should be momentary to pair my phone?
For more in-depth help feel free to reach out to our tech support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Thanks!
Sell me that DVD player! Great video series guys.
Dang.. so rad! Thanks for taking us through it!!
So basically this is an arduino for bikes.
That's understated but yes you could say that. It's a digital micro controller and solid state fuse block replacement with real time voltage monitoring and a dozen other unique features.
great vid love the WERA decal in the back...
Can I use this unit on my old shovelhead Harley? or any bike
Yep, this will work on virtually any bike, and it should be perfect for an old shovelhead.
That is an impressive piece of technology.
I’m looking at getting the M unit blue, and struggling to get a clear answer at the moment. If I were to install the M-lock, could I still use the phone Bluetooth to turn the ignition on and off instead of the RFID fob? In case I were to lose the fob whilst out riding, for example?
The Keyless Go BT function doe not turn your bike's power on or off via the app, when your phone is within range it allows you to press the horn and start button to power the bike on. When you kill the engine it will cut power to the bike as well.
I want to disassemble the m-unit and take a look at the PCB and all the IC used on the m-unit.
Does this unit have to grounded to the chassis or could it just be grounded to the battery
hi Stefan - awesome video - thanks. I am building a highly tuned 1996 Thunderbird - I am looking at installing EFI over the coming winter when engine totally run in - I am looking for a way to integrate shift assist. I read that the OEM units interrupt the fuel delivery then shift - I was thinking maybe a quick cut of the ignition is how it works - do you think I could used the KILL function to shift?
So does this thing replace the whole fuse box without the need for one now? I want to completely rewire a simple wiring for my carb bike. Also is there like a generic wiring diagram? I would like to fully replace my nasty Triumph America wiring harness with this. I just dont see where the starter solenoid and the regulator rectifier is wired in and the coils
Hey Marshall shoot us an email to techsupport@revivalcycles.com and Berry will get you sorted out.
Cheers for the video and your email guys. Great help to a wiring novice.
If I wanted to do a conversion and install the M.unit Blue on an '84 Honda VF1100S V65 Sabre, what size Antigravity battery would I need? Because it's an 1098cc V4 it needs quite a bit more juice than smaller bikes and there's quite a bit of electronics on it. What would you recommend and would the M.unit Blue be able to handle all of the OEM systems on the bike?
A 12 Cell would be ideal but if you are also doing a full lighting swap to LED and you're diligent with keeping the bike on a float charger when sitting for a week or more you might get away with an 8-cell. Keep in mind that you'll also need to update the Reg/Rec to a Lithium optimized model or you'll over charge the battery shortening it's lifespan or possibly causing a cascading meltdown of the cells. You bike would require the MOSFET 820 offered on our site.
shop.revivalcycles.com/lifepo4-optimized-mosfet-permanent-magnet-regulator-rectifier/
@@RevivalCycles Awesome! Thanks so much for all the info, that was incredibly helpful and I greatly appreciate it! :-)
Been toying around with a canbus type setup, and I'm surprised Motogadget hasn't come up with their own system for it yet. The features of this are cool, but they still require "home run" wires all the way back to the main unit. I'm envisioning a system where the dash/bars, front lights, rear lights, engine, and chassis (for stand and other switches) all have their own multiplexers, and communication goes back to a central unit with 2-wire (or even 1-wire) serialized comms.
Installation on an existing machine would be difficult, but for building a completely custom bike, this could be extremely powerful. Essentially, the concept of a wiring harness could basically be completely foregone.
This is wicked man! Super easy to configure. I was at your shop 5/6 years ago for MotoGP. You guys build some badass bikes!
Much appreciated!
Just purchase M UNIT BLUE M UNIT MINI SWITCHES N THE M UNIT M BUTTON FOR HANDLE BARS BUT ON THE M UNIT BLUE THERE NO CONFIGURATION HOOK UP FOR THE GREEN WIRE.Help!!!WHERE DO I HOOK UP THE GREEN CONFIGURATION WIRE ON THE M UNIT BLUE.WATCHED OTHER VIDEOS.THERES A Connection ON THE OLDER M UNIT...BUT NOT THE NEW M UNIT BLUE.HELP.
The config button goes in the Lin in while programming the m.Unit.
Nice gadget but I'm not sure about the idea of spending more time on my phone instead or riding.? Thanks for the video though, very informative.
Fair enough! but you don't really need to spend any time on your phone at all unless your bike happens to be broken and you're using the phone app to troubleshoot an electrical issue. The fact that in an instant you can view real time voltage monitoring, identify exactly where a fault is in the system, correct it on the side of the road and have the circuit reset itself means you're spending more time on the road rather than standing beside it.
This video (like all Revival tech talks) is awesome... Thanks :)
If you set the m unit to NO, then wire another input signal from the kickstand to the kill input you can solve the issue you were talking about.
Currently the M-Unit won’t allow the starter to engage if the side stand is down, having another input for down going to kill will shut the ignition signal output off of the side stand were to be put down either intentionally or accidentally.
Just an option to “fix” that issue you had.
Probably overkill but ima use this on a CT70 converted to 12v.
There are some unbelievably tricked out Honda CT's on the scene. If you're dedicated there no reason not to push the electronics to the next level as well.
I'm looking to completely rewire a xs750,can I use an m unit with a lithium battery,also will it require a specific reg/rectifier for this bike to charge a lithium battery?
I think it may be time to gut the old sportster electronics
Can the M-Unit and Motoscope talk to each other or would you just need to have the Motoscope's speedo input plugged into AUX2 and hope their ODO readings stay in close enough sync?
The m-Unit and motoscope do not "talk" to each other, but if you have them connected to the same speed sensor, then the accuracy between the two ODO readings would depend on the specifics of the calibration of each device. If you set the parameters the same they should register the same reading. So far we have not bothered to connect the speed sensor input to the m-Unit, as this part of the app functionality has not been important to our customers yet.
If you are using the 4 button option. where a combination of two buttons starts or kills the bike…what do you do with the existing kill and start wires?? Do they become obsolete
Nearly the entire OEM wire harness is obsolete. other than the ignition and charging system wires the rest goes in the bin and you wire from scratch.
Thank you so much. This totally makes sense now. I will be reaching out to you when I get to the wiring stage of my build. Two questions... I have a 1999 Honda Shadow VT750CD. Will this unit replace ALL OEM electrical components or will I need to keep anything like the Ignition Control Module or the Regulator/Rectifier? The last question. Does this also monitor the oil pressure, Thermostatic switch, and other similar sensors?
If your phone battery dies or you loose or brake your phone is there some back up way of disarming the alarm and starting the bike ?
It is recommended that you have a hidden switch or secondary key switch for this situation. There are several ways to handle it, but basically you just need to provide +12v to the lock input to bypass the bluetooth system.
damn guys, great vid, super informative.
Can i use switch buttons with the m-unit blue or do they all have to be momentary buttons? For example if I have my indicators as switch buttons then the other three as momentary buttons would that work?
That's a good question. The m.Unit can use 3 way toggle switches for features like headlights and signals similar to the OEM switches but in my opinion the user experience isn't as good. Ideally, if you were going to use a toggle it would be a 3 position, momentary toggle so that it resets itself to the neutral position when released.
Just ordered munitblue, so my 92 harley softail; the headlight comes on when i turn the ignition on.....will the unit do the same?
It can, or you can program it so that the headlight only comes on after the start button is pressed.
can this unit be used with an old classic car? I'm restoring an old 60s car and dreading the wiring harness mess. this seems simple enough for the electrical "features" an old car has
This comes up from time to time, and I don't really think it's right for that. You couls use it to manage the lighting circuits but the max amperages on the outputs is not enough for many car components.
Best videos regarding Motogadget I've seen come from Revival Cycles. As is this one. Crashed my Yam MT-10. Now I want to rebuilt wth some of Motogadget parts like this M.unit blue and Motoscope pro. Your videos have inspired me. Great stuff.
So with a sheet of aluminum i can ground the unit just like you did??
Assuming that the aluminum is properly grounded yes sir.
2 questions:
will this be compatible to the m-button (didn't hear a mention of it)?
will you guys be doing a new wiring kit like you have for the m-unit v.2?
p.s. great video as always
M-button to "Kill"
I think the standard wiring kit from the v2 would still work completely. I used it for my build which is all complete now and other than rewiring my coils directly to the new "ignition" output and maybe splitting my switched power items between the 2 aux's now I don't think any other wiring is required.
Definitely a great vid!
Although the colours would need new naming so maybe a new one is in order? I bet it would be a quick adjustment to the v2.0 setup to make it an available option if the logistics of having two kits wasn't a pain.
This is a really good point... we'll take a look at revamping the kit and more than likely we'll update to the new Blue spec, and that will cover the V2 also.
If I am already running the motogadget mini dash with a speed sensor, can I tie into that signal and run it to the M-unit blue for its speed sensor?
This is awesome! I suppose you could wire your low beam to aux1 to have high/low beam duality?
You could use the AUX1 or AUX2 for this purpose, but unless you added an extra switch to control the AUX1/2 operation you would not be able to turn the headlight off completely.
The other ways to get both high and low beam at the same time is to use a diode to power the low beam off the high beam output. Pay attention to the forward voltage drop of the diode and the current flow for the light, the wrong setup here can get very hot.
It also works to use a relay controlled by the high beam output. High beam out, powers highbeam and the control coil of the relay, then the relay contacts connect the high and low beam wires.
Very clever. I didn't think about regulating off the high beam. Thanks for putting out quality video and being passionate about what you do. If I ever make it down near you guys I'm going to have to drop in and bring you guys donuts or something!
Going to use this system to completely redo the electricity in my old two stroke Saab. Thank you for these tech vids, awesome content!
Good thinking, I hadn't considered anything but a bike, but I might fit one to my 1956 Landy when I have to rewire it soon! Cheers
Hi. Has anyone fitted this to a Triumph Thunderbird? Mine is the 1999 model. Did it need the addition of anything for the ignition?
Another great video
NIce job guys helped me out
Hi Stefan, I have 78 BMW R100 which already has a Motoscope Pro, is there a way of integrating that into the M-unit blue without using the MSP breakout box? I.e. Can you connect the orange 'motogadget BUS' wire directly to M-Unit Blue? Seems a little unnecessary to have both.
Thanks,
Hi Dale, unfortunately at this time there isn't. The MSP relies on a CANBUS digital language and the breakout box is required to translate the signals from your sensors into that language. The BUS input on the m.unit is for future developments and not for your gauge.
-Berry
I was wanting to install this on my 1991 Yamaha virago xv1100, what type of battery, and regulator would I need? also would this work with the electric fuel pump? I've been wanting to convert my lights to LED and my battery just died and this looks perfect.
This will work on your Virago. Answers to all of these questions can be found in our knowledge base on the site.
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Is it possible to use an android phone like a remote instead of using switches?
Not really, while you can use the app to activate the circuits while performing maintenance it is not intended to be used while riding.
Is there a vid about the app with complete walk through. I'm having issues with the app.
Great, but, can you do a video on the Moto Guzzi starter and how to "wire in" the relay? There are a lot of people frying their m unit when connecting their 30 A output to a BMW or Moto Guzzi starter. These starters suck more than 100 A, which the m unit can not handle.
Hi Neo,
There are no issues with the m.Unit operating on BMW's or Moto Guzzi's. I'm reticent to discount yours or anyone else's experience but we've sold thousands of m.Units over nearly ten years and installed them in dozens of BMW's and Moto Guzzi's in our shop and our experience is that this isn't a problem. I've been answering technical support inquiries for 5+ years and I've only seen it happen once on a BMW K-Bike where the Starter Motor was wired directly to the Start outputs.
I suspect that the issue you're referring to is actually a misunderstanding due to terminologies and translations. The Motogadget manual states that you can get rid of all the relays including the starter relay. They do not mean to say you can do away with your starter solenoid which is what handles the potential 100A a starter might draw.
This is also a relevant concern for the uninitiated working on other bikes who's English manuals and diagrams have been translated from another language. The term relay is often used in place of Solenoid and unless you know the difference between the two in this application there's potential for a catastrophic error.
I've recently brought this to Motogadgets attention and I'm working to help them adjust the language so that it's more easily understood.
-Berry
Can stock switches be used or do they need to be pushbutton switches? I'm converting an 80 CB 750 to a GSXR front end and was going to use the gsxr switches if possible.
The OEM switches can be used but there is major modification to the wiring required and in th end the user interface is a little awkward. There's a full rundown of how to do this on our tech articles page on the website.
Hello I am doing a home made frame up custom cafe build and I am gonna be putting this on the bike in place of a fuse box. I would like to have a hazard capability from my multiswitch and was wondering if I could just run the wire from the switch and split it into two wires that go to the left and right turn signal or is there a more preferred way to put hazards on my build with this unit? Cheers.
The m-unit has the hazard function built in, and you just need to press both buttons at the same time. It will not work to connect both inputs to a single switch, because then the inputs are electrically connected and you could not use left or right individually. Also if you are using the factory style switches with a toggle for turn signals the program configuration doesn't work for hazards.
if you need hazards then you need separate push buttons for the turn signal inputs
The m.ride app is now available for iOS on the App Store.
I wish I did see this video before. Everything I had to find out the hard way you describe already in the first part of the video. Great work!! 🖕It's all you need to get up and running the mo.unit
Glad it was helpful!
I am having a problem getting the m-unit blue to pair with my I-phone setup tells you to tap horn button 3 times fast and t/signals will flash but they never do so unit wont connect,anybody had this problem?
This can be tricky because there is a timing component that has to be correct. Basically you have to get the three button pushes in after you turn on the ignition switch, but before the lights finish racing around the m-Unit. We struggled with this too, until we got the timing right.
What is the difference between the M unit blue and the unit basic
The M-Unit Blue has Bluetooth capability to be used with your smart phone, the M-Unit Basic does not. However, the M-Unit Basic is no longer available through Motogadget, they only offer the M-Unit Blue now.
can this work with fuel injucted motorcycle
Yes but there are some hurdles to overcome and it requires an intimate understanding of the fuel injection system so that you can determine how to provide power to all of the necessary components. Furthermore, if the bike has an immobilizer built into the ECU the ECU will need to be replaced with an aftermarket model that does not include a security system.
EFI systems are too varied for us to be able to create a universal diagram for explanation of the process but we provide all of the theoretical tools one would need on our Knowledge Base. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Will the phone act similar to the M-lock? Like a keyless system? Building a custom bike and all wiering will be new.... Btw love the tech talk videos!
Yes, similar but it does not replace the need for a keyed switch of some form which the m.Lock does replace. A keyed switch is necessary for moments when your phone isn't on you, the bike is on loan or left with a mechanic.
Great videos, I have to renew my 84 S2 Duke and this is the next big mod
To get both low beam and high beam to light at the same time, couldn't you just tap the low beam into the ignition, then you would also know that if the low beam is on, the m-unit is powered on. or you could just have high beam set a aux instead of hi-beam port
It would depend on what type of ignition system and what type of low beam you are using. The ignition output only has about 120 watts of power, so if you have a 60 Watt low beam that would be consuming 50% of the power available on the ignition output. Not a problem if your ignition system is efficient, but at higher RPM they do draw some juice.
Does the M - Unit completely replace the factory wiring harness? I want to use it on my 1980s hondas.
The m.Unit facilitates the replacement of the factory harness along with many of the OEM components. It is at its core a solid state fuse block replacement and a digital microcontroller that will modernize your electrical system making it more reliable and easier to diagnose and repair when there is an issue. Your charging and ignition systems remain mostly unchanged with exception to how they interface with the m.Unit.
We've recently launched a tech articles page on our site. You can find explanations of the features the m.Unit provides along with a comprehensive list of components needed for an install, wiring theory and diagrams.
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
@revival Cycles
I have a 1979 XS650S kick only bike, do I need a Battery to run the M-unit?
Yea, pretty much. The m-Unit needs a battery to power up and activate the ignition circuit. But if you wanted to do some unconventional stuff and not have the m-Unit control the ignition you might be able to make it work without a battery...but that kinda defeats the purpose. Also, with the antigravity 4-cell its pretty easy to hide a battery on the bike...and its not that much bigger than the capacitor that is typically needed when running batteryless. revivalcycles.com/products/antigravity-4-cell-small-case-battery
👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌
Do you have a video linking motoscope pro with an m unit blue? Is a breakout box required also?
yes, as far as we know the m-Unit does not communicate with the pro via bus, it still uses the breakout box and standard signals.
Is there any more security features, because it looks like one jumper from the positive to the lock input and the bike is live
This is basically true of any motorcycle that doesn't have a sophisticated ECU with immobilizer. If a thief has time to remove your seat or tank, then happens to be familiar with this alien technology and how to subvert it then there's nothing that's going to stop them.
Do you have a diagram for a BMW K75?
We do not have model specific diagrams due to the extensive amount of time required to create them and the K bikes are among the most complicated electrical systems on any bike. The way I would tackle that project is to run off several copies of the diagram and isolate the charging, system, ignition system and starting circuit on their own page. Then on another page I would highlight the hand warmers, windshield wipers and dishwashers as systems to be removed. Once you've done that locate the 12V+ wires for those systems and decide whether the m.Unit has a circuit to manage that or if the ECU should continue to provide power to it. Keep in mind that if you allow the ECU to provide power you also need an external fuse on that circuit.
So is LIN where the motobullet line connects to the motogadget?
No sure what a Motobullet is but it does not goin into the LIN. This terminal is reserved for future developments.
@@RevivalCycles I meant m-button, sorry. But I found my answer. Thanks for the great videos.
You could just wire your kill switch between the m unit and the coil
I'm not really sure why you'd need or want to do that. The start button doubles as a kill switch with a double tap. If you put a latching switch between the coil you'd have to run voltage all the way up to the switches defeating one of the best features of the m.Unit. If the problem is a CDI ignition, a cheap normally open relay installed between the Ign out and the CDI allows the ignition to ground out when the kill switch is activated. while maintaining the fused protection for all of the + voltage.
@@RevivalCycles was thinking more safety on a bike with original switch gear intact, if you have the original kill switch there and you have some sort of accident a first responder may want to shut the bike down and struggle if its still running, but your solution solves that problem in a better way though so all good
Does it work well with kick start bikes? And I'm so saving to buy one of these bad Mamma Jammas
It does work well with kick start bikes, and now with the m-Unit blue and basic you can configure to turn the headlight on when the bike is turned on. BUT be aware that the m-Unit does not work with bikes that don't use batteries, so as long as you have a 12v battery on board, you are good to go.
Thank you so much! Good video and very helpful, i think i can revive my old duc now!
Great to hear!
Hey, Thank you Stefan and co, i went on this unit with confidence, just hope this thing will be able to benefit of possible firmware upgrad regarding european parking light particularity (funny thing considering Motogadget is German), but not disapointed, thanks to your Revival tech talk!
Not sure what firmware issue you are referring to. What is the problem with the parking light?
@@RevivalCycles Would not say an issu, just that parking mode use the 55W front low beam and i would rather use the dedicated 5w integrated "position light" (european standard). to get it that way i can connect this 5w where normaly go the low beam, and connect low beam on AUX2 programmed, but risk of burning bulb as it won't endure both high and low too long, plus that restrict my expectation for AUX2 .
What i would like is parallele connecting this 5W with rear light, and possibility to setup the parking light for only rear light...firmware update.
I will finally just use blinkers as parking lights ;-)
Does the M-unit exclude any of the shunky parts on a motorcycle?
Not sure what qualifies as "shunky" but it does replace most relays, and fuses. It does not replace ignition, ECU or charging system components. For a full rundown of all of the features of the Blue and Basic models. Check out the link below.
revivalcycles.zendesk.com/knowledge/articles/360016205291/en-us?brand_id=360000709012&return_to=%2Fhc%2Fen-us%2Farticles%2F360016205291